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(Photo from http://www.wildernessphotographs.com/photo.php?id=636&gallery=stock-adirondacks)
Today is the winter solstice. And on this shortest day of the year, which happens to be gray, I'm cheered as I look into my yard by the fabulous winterberry growing there. This native is determined to brighten winter.
Although winterberry belongs to the holly family, they drop their leaves in the fall, which accentuates their bright red berries. Like any holly, you'll need a male and female to get the berries. But you'll only need one male for every five to ten females.
Native winterberries provide food for birds. However, the berries have a low fat content and so birds leave them until late winter. That means you get to enjoy looking at the berries most of the season.
Although winterberries prefer wetter areas in nature, they will also grow just fine in moderate soil. These shrubs can grow eight to twelve feet tall and wide, but there are smaller cultivars available if you have less space.
For more information on this great shrub, see this.
(From: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/283586107758562406/)
Does shortbread scented with lavender, lemon verbena, or rosemary sound good? How about honey cookies? Rhubarb cookies? Or are you looking for new recipes to try this holiday season that might use some things you've preserved from your garden? If so, try one or more of these recipes.
Need more ideas? How about Rosemary Cookies with Tomato Jam?
Or Apricot, Cornmeal and Sage Cookies?
Do you have a favorite recipe? If so, please feel free to share it here!
No other plant says Christmas like a poinsettia. Many people buy one or more every season. But you can keep them throughout the year if you like. When buying, select plants that look healthy. They need moderately moist soil. You should water if the soil feels dry to the touch. Ideally, the temperature is somewhere between 60-70 degrees. Also, for those that are sensitive to latex, use caution when handling poinsettias. You may also be sensitive to them.
For more on how to keep your poinsettia throughout the year, see this.
(Picture from: http://www.reeves-reedarboretum.org/admin/uploads/Decorate-a-Tree.png)
Draw birds right to your family's window this holiday season by dressing up a tree in your yard with some of these ideas.
Mix birdseed and peanut butter and spread it on pinecones. Roll the pinecones in the birdseed once more and hang. Use biodegradable cotton string or twine to hang the pinecones.
(Picture from http://craftingparties.com/classic-pinecone-bird-feeder/)
String garlands of popcorn and/or cranberries with a needle and thread, either individually or in a pattern of white and red.
(Picture from http://www.bashcorner.com/10-super-easy-and-fun-christmas-crafts/)
Cut oranges or grapefruit in half and peel out the flesh to make a bowl. Punch four holes around the edges and tie with cotton string. After hanging on the tree, fill with mixed seed or thistle.
(Picture from http://blog.farmmade.com/dont-forget-our-feathered-friends-this-winter/)
Many of these ideas are from the Clemson Cooperative Extension. For more, see here. Other beautiful ideas are shown here. And for ways that your indoor tree can be helpful to wildlife after the holidays, see this.
Around this time of year, you may begin to find ladybugs on walls or windowsills of your home. Where do they come from?
Ladybugs, or more accurately lady beetles, are renowned to be beneficial insects that consume huge quantities of aphids, thrips, mites, whiteflies and mealybugs in our gardens. There are over 4500 species of lady beetles globally, and over 500 species in the United States. Some are native. Others have been introduced, often intentionally. One of these introduced species is the Multicolored Asian Lady Beetle, Harmonia axyridis. Although some of this species appear to have entered the US as unintentional passengers on ships or nursery stock, the USDA introduced some MALB as biological control agents to attack aphids and other pests of fruit trees and soybeans. Introductions in Pennsylvania occurred in 1978 and 1981, and, by 1993, overwintering populations of this species were recorded.
This dome-shaped beetle looks like native ladybugs but is somewhat larger. It gets its name from the fact that its elytra or wing cover can vary in color from red to yellow to black and may or may not have spots. Most are dark orange and can have up to 19 spots. The collar-shaped pronotum behind the head is usually light in color with a black 'M' marking. This mark is unique to this species.
During the growing season these lady beetles are undergoing multiple generations. The oval yellow eggs are laid under leaves of various plant species. These hatch into the black and orange alligator-shaped larvae that are voracious predators of aphids. After several weeks these pupate and adults emerge. The adults can live for over a year.
Photo by Robert Koch
Native lady beetles overwinter under leaf litter or tree bark or fallen logs. The MALB do not! In their native habitat, the adults begin to congregate on cliffs at the end of the growing season when the temperatures begin to drop. They crawl into cracks and crevasses and overwinter there, emerging once again in the spring to mate and begin the cycle again. In the United States where cliffs aren't readily available, the beetles begin to congregate on the sunny sides of tall houses in late September or October, and they will enter any cracks around siding, doors or windows. If they find suitable hibernating spaces inside attics, walls or other areas, they can form huge masses. During milder days, they may begin to emerge into the home itself and that's where you find them on walls and windowsills.
They can become a nuisance in these situations because they emit a yellow smelly defensive secretion that can stain walls and wallpaper. These can also cause skin or sinus irritations. They also bite though generally this doesn't cause much of a problem.
The best way to prevent these unwanted visitors is to make sure you seal cracks and spaces where they can enter the home, repair screens, and install weather stripping around doors and screen covers over vent openings. If they do enter, insecticides aren't very effective. It's best to vacuum them up. Knee high stocking can be inserted inside the vacuum wand to collect them before they enter the bag where they can cause the vacuum to smell.
If you don't have too many of them, remember that some cultures consider it good luck to have them enter the home!
Here are two good fact sheets about these insects:
By the way, if you want to become a ladybug spotter to help determine how ladybug populations are changing, check out this site that has lots of ladybug information:
Annuals grown in containers are discarded at the end of the season, but potted perennials and shrubs or small trees can be maintained over the winter if they are cold hardy. The more cold hardy they are, the more likely you are to succeed in keeping them alive. The two problems that need to be addressed are maintaining moisture in the soil of the container and preventing the soil (and thus roots) from freezing solid.
Very large wooden or concrete planters can usually be left in place. It's best not to leave clay, ceramic or glazed pottery pots exposed to the elements since they may crack. If you must leave them out, wrap the pots in bubble wrap or some insulating material covered with plastic to help protect them.
There are several methods you can use to protect smaller containers. First you can bury the entire pot in the ground and cover it with soil or mulch. The surrounding soil acts as insulation.
A second method is to move the pots to an unheated garage, shed, cold frame, or basement. Check the soil moisture periodically, but don't overwater or you may get root rot.
A third method is to group the pots close together in a protected location, water them, and cover them with straw, compost, shredded leaves, bark mulch, evergreen boughs, or a thermal blanket. Similarly, one or a few pots can be placed inside a box, larger pot, or wire enclosure and add some sort of insulating material around them such as bark mulch, straw, packing peanuts or even bubble wrap. Again check the soil moisture since dry soil freezes faster than moist soil.
In the spring, remove the protective covers gradually to give the plants time to re-acclimate.
The following links from University of Massachusetts extension and Brooklyn Botanic Garden give more details:
Spotted Lanternfly Lycorma delicatula, a new invasive insect, has come to our area. The spotted lanternfly has been found in eastern Berks County. Experts are still learning about the biology and control of this threat to agriculture but they are concerned that this pest has potential to impact the grape, fruit tree and logging industries. As of today there are five Berks County townships under quarantine to try to avoid the spread of this pest: District, Pike, Hereford, Rockland and Washington including the boroughs of Bally and Bechtelsville.
Here is a link to the spotted Lanternfly pest alert from the Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture:
The Pest Alert sheet has photographs of different life stages of this insect, including the egg masses. There are details about what to do if you find it. If you find any egg masses, you should scrape them off and destroy them. Also, PDA wants to know if you find this insect. The sheet includes instructions on how to report it if you do find this insect. It is important to find out if this insect exists outside of the current quarantine area, so our readers who are in western Lehigh County are an especially important part of the community of people who are looking for this insect.
Moving items from the quarantine zone to other areas can potentially spread this pest. If you are cutting firewood or moving other items of concern from within the quarantine zone to the Lehigh Valley, you have the potential to spread this insect to new areas.
Here is a link to the article: "Spotted Lanternfly Regulation: What the General Quarantine Means for Moving Items" which includes a list of the regulated articles and limitations. http://extension.psu.edu/plants/green-industry/news/2014/spotted-lanternfly-regulations-what-the-general-quarantine-means-for-moving-items Please review this article, and if you have questions about the quarantine, contact Dana Rhodes at PDA at 717-772-5205 or email@example.com
If you would like to learn more about this pest, here is a link to a recorded informational meeting that was held in Berks County on November 5, 2014
The meeting consisted of two presentations, with questions from the public after each. The first presentation was made by Sven Spichiger, Entomology Program Manager from the PA Department of Agriculture. He covered Spotted Lanternfly biology, background on the current infestation, projected impact, and what the public can do.
The second presenter was Dana Rhodes, State Plant Regulatory Official. She covered specifics of the PA Department of Agriculture's quarantine in Berks County.
Homeowners and townships spend a huge amount of time, energy and money every fall disposing of fallen tree leaves. Landfills no longer have room for yard waste, so many townships have set up compost centers to receive them. The resulting compost can be re-used by homeowners in their gardens. However, when you consider the man- hours, fuel, and equipment used to generate this compost, it's still pretty expensive. Furthermore, leaves that sit at curbside and decompose before collection release phosphorus and nitrogen which can be carried into streams and rivers when it rains. This can ultimately contribute to algae blooms in these waterways.
Instead of raking and removing leaves from your yard, consider mowing them! Research by several state universities has shown that there are no negative effects of this on healthy turf. Once shredded, the leaves break down more easily and can act to nourish the lawn by supporting the microbes that recycle nutrients. In fact, a study at Michigan State indicated that turf with leaves mulched into it greens up quicker in the spring. The decomposing leaves may even cover bare spots where weeds would have germinated!
Mulching mowers are best for shredding leaves, but even a rotary mower will do. Set the mower to a 3-inch height and mow when the leaves are dry or only slightly damp with dew. Run several passes over the leaves to completely shred them. Mow several times rather than waiting until all the leaves have fallen to prevent clogging the mower blade and to keep the leaves from shading out the turf too long. In addition, if you attach a bag to the mower to collect some of the shredded leaves, these can be dug into gardens, used as mulch or added to your own compost bin. This is definitely an ecologically and fiscally sounder alternative to raking or blowing them away!
If you are new to fruit growing or an experienced grower, Penn State offers an excellent reference guide geared towards growers who plan to produce fruit on small properties of one acre or less. Fruit Production for the Home Gardener was co-written by professors of horticulture, entomology, forest resources, plant pathology and pesticide education. It tells you how to get started and covers the most recently developed production methods that use alternative pest control strategies to reduce pesticide use. It also suggests methods for controlling wildlife damage to your crop. The guide covers pome fruit (apples and pears), stone fruits, grapes, brambles, strawberries, blueberries, gooseberries and currants, elderberries and hardy kiwi. Here's a link to the guide:
Since Christmas is not too far away, this would also be a great gift for any of your friends or family who are interested in producing any fruit crops for their own use!
To order a print version for $12 plus shipping and handling, contact:
Publications Distribution Center
The Pennsylvania State University
112 Agricultural Administration Building
University Park, PA 16802-2602
Phone: 814-865-6713
Fax: 814-863-5560
E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.com
Today was a beautiful, cool fall day with a clear blue sky and a gusty wind blowing leaves about. As I drove home across the Lehigh Valley I noticed an abundance of plump, tan corn shocks placed as decorations in many neighborhoods, perched against lamp posts, mail boxes, along fences, tied to railings in parks and along main streets. They look nice accompanied by pumpkins and squash in shades of orange, green, white, some with lumps and corky bumps. We love fall decorations to remind us of our agricultural heritage. Somehow they give us a sense of peace and home.
Originally, corn shocks were created to help store the harvest. Mature corn plants were cut in the field and tied together in bundles. Then the bundles were stacked or tied together to protect them from marauding wildlife, exposure to the weather, and to make the corn easier to gather up later to bring inside. This was a labor-intensive process and was hard work. Farming communities often worked together to gather the corn into shocks on all the farms and then after the corn had dried, the community would work together again to help everyone gather their shocks into their storage barns.
Some of the Amish and Mennonite farmers in Pennsylvania still follow this practice. I've notices corn shocks in parts of the Great Valley Amish community near Belleville, PA. This community relies on manual labor to harvest their corn crop and the method of gathering it into shocks is still the best way for them to preserve the harvest.
Modern families harken back to this agricultural life when we decorate using corn shocks. In an interesting way, corn shocks are still an important agricultural commodity for modern farm families. Many local farms produce small corn stalk bundles, and sell them as 'shocks' for decoration. They are a nice addition to the other fall products they produce like pumpkins, squash, garden mums, and preserves. Corn shocks certainly remain an important agricultural commodity for Pennsylvania farmers, but for the most part the intended use has changed. We no longer use them to preserve the corn grain for winter and provide fodder for bedding for livestock. Now we want them for that nostalgic, bountiful feel they impart to our fall landscapes and public spaces. We enjoy them for the season and then hopefully we return them to the earth through composting and by adding them to our garden soil in the spring. The circle of life of a corn shock.
Image from https://extension.umass.edu/landscape/weeds/aster-divaricatus
Autumn is definitely aster time in the fields, meadows and woodlands in our area. There are many species of this native perennial, but one of the ones I like best is Aster divaricatus (also listed as Eurybia divaricata), the white wood aster.
This common member of the Asteraceae family is found in dry open woodlands in northeastern US, west to Ohio, and south to Georgia. It blooms from August into October. The species is characterized by flat-topped clusters of small white daisy-like ray flowers surrounding yellow disks that turn purplish as they age. The stems, which contrast nicely with the flowers, are blackish and often zigzag. Leaves are coarsely toothed and somewhat heart-shaped.
The stems of this aster can grow to 2 ½ feet but tend to sprawl, thus forming a nice airy groundcover. These plants do well in part shade in average well-drained soil. Cut the stems back in June to keep the height shorter if desired. Once established in a particular site, this aster is very tolerant of dry soil, which makes it useful for those dry shade areas that are difficult to landscape. Plants self -seed, and they also spread by rhizomes to form colonies, so deadhead after flowering if you want to restrain them and plant them where it doesn't matter. This is one of those plants considered a "weed" by some and a great wildflower by others! Besides the species, there are a few named cultivars available such as 'Raiche' which has larger flowers and 'Fiesta" which has streaked leaves.
The flowers are attractive to butterfly pollinators, and some of our winter songbirds such as juncos, sparrows and goldfinches feed on the seeds. Supposedly, deer don't eat them. If you have a native or woodland garden, white wood asters can be an attractive as well useful plant addition!
Mushroom compost is the used growing medium from mushroom farms. The amount, type and quality of materials used to produce the mushroom medium in the first place can vary widely through out the country, and this will affect the characteristics of the compost you put on your garden. The original medium can include wheat straw, hay, horse bedding, corn cobs, cottonseed meal, cocoa hulls, gypsum, or poultry manure or litter. The ingredients are composted and steam pasteurized before use. This is often then top-dressed with sphagnum peat moss and limestone prior to seeding with mushroom spawn. Once the mushrooms have been harvested, the used compost is steam pasteurized again to kill any pests, pathogens, weed seeds, or remnant mushrooms and sold as "mushroom compost".
The American Mushroom Institute cites a number of benefits to be gained from using mushroom compost in the garden. These include improved soil structure, increased nutrient content and availability, improved water retention, increase in beneficial soil microbes, potential decrease in the need for liming, and suppression of soil artillery fungi.
Penn State research has supported its use as a good soil amendment for established or newly seeded turf, landscaped areas or agricultural fields. One study by Dr. Mike Fidanza and Dr. David Beyer on fresh mushroom compost samples from southeastern Pa reported a pH range of 5.8-7.7 and nutrient levels which are lower than inorganic fertilizers but comparable to other organic ones. They also noted that the salinity, as measured by conductivity, was not high enough to interfere with plant growth, although over-application or incorrect application could result in excessive salt load. Some gardeners are concerned about pesticide residues in media used in agricultural productions. According to Dr. Beyer, very few pesticides are used in the Pennsylvania mushroom industry, and those used do not persist in mushroom compost either because they rapidly degrade or they are tightly bound to the organic matter in the compost. Since the materials used to make the compost can vary, so can the characteristics. If you purchase bagged mushroom compost, you should read the label or check with the supplier about its analysis.
Mushroom compost should NOT be treated as topsoil but rather as an excellent compost amendment for soil. According to Dr. Fidanza, fresh mushroom compost should be spread 1 inch thick on the garden (3 cubic yards per 1000 square feet), and then rototilled or mixed thoroughly to provide an excellent root zone mix for gardens. You could even apply at 2 or 3 inches thick for poorer soils, but it must be mixed in thoroughly. This mixing step is very important when adding this or any other compost material/product! Fall application allows for any excess salts to leach out prior to spring planting. The Center for Turfgrass Science at Penn State recommends that the same application rate would apply to soil preparation prior to turf establishment, though lime or additional fertilizer might have to be added as well depending upon the soil. Fresh mushroom compost can be used as topdressing on established lawns but should be applied in a very thin layer (1/4 inch) and then incorporated in via aeration.
Everybody is complaining lately about the "gnats" that swarm around in yards, playgrounds and fields! The accepted common name for these little insects is "black flies". They belong to the Simuliidae, one of the families in the order Diptera, or true flies. Interestingly, their presence is an indication that our streams and rivers are cleaner than in the past since they are not found in polluted waters.
There are 53 species of black flies in Pennsylvania, and the eggs, larvae and pupae of all them develop in moving waters—i.e. creeks, rivers and streams. They must have moving water to provide them with the oxygen and food that the larval forms need. Though they may be found in all rivers and streams, the 4 species that are most pestiferous are in the Simulium jenningsi complex which tend to inhabit larger warmer rivers such as the Lehigh or Delaware.
The black flies that are affecting us at this time of the year may produce many generations per year since they can complete their entire life cycle in several weeks! Females lay their eggs in moving water, and these hatch into "maggots" or larvae that anchor themselves to something solid in the water column such as a rock or vegetation. They then filter food, which consists of organic matter, microbes, algae, or small animals, out of the water that flows by their heads. After passing through 4 to 9 instar stages, they stop eating and pupate inside cocoons. When the pupae emerge as adults, they quickly fly to land where they begin to feed. The males form large swarms and females fly into these in search of a mate.
Both male and female black flies eat nectar, sap or honeydew, but the females feed on blood of mammals or birds as well. This blood meal provides nutrients for the eggs she will lay. Each species is specific about which hosts it will feed upon. Our local species do not prefer to feed on humans and don't often bite us, but they still cause great annoyance as they swarm about your face and hair and get into eyes, ears, nose and mouth! In excessive population numbers, those feeding upon livestock or poultry can decrease production of eggs or milk or, in severe cases, even cause death of the host! Bites on humans can result in swollen and itchy welts or even allergic reactions. There's not a lot that can be done to deter these unpleasant pests. Long sleeved, buttoned up clothing, brimmed hats, glasses, and the use of a DEET containing repellent may help for a while. Punk sticks are also reported to keep them at bay.
Pennsylvania has in place a Black Fly Suppression Program that focuses on the control of these 4 species in 44 rivers and streams usually from April to September. The treatment consists of aerial spraying of Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti), a naturally occurring soil bacterium, which infects the gut of the larvae so they can not feed and thus starve to death. This treatment is nontoxic to humans and wildlife since it is specific to the larvae of mosquitoes, black flies and fungus gnats. Unfortunately, the program ran out of funding this year by mid summer so spraying ended in early August. This may account for the increased numbers of black flies we're seeing right now. Here is a link to the Black Fly Suppression Website. There's lots of interesting reading here on black fly biology and the history of the program itself. There's even a place to register your black fly complaints which may help state biologists determine where to spray next spring!
The Northampton County and Lehigh County Open Gate Farm Tours have been annual traditions for more than four decades. Farms in Lehigh and Northampton Counties "open their gates" once a year for the public to visit their farming operation and get a taste of local agriculture.
This year the Northampton County Open Gate Farm Tour is scheduled for Saturday, October 11th and Sunday, October 12th from 1:00 to 5:00 p.m. on both days. There are 16 participating farms offering educational tours, food samples, pumpkin picking and more! For a list of the farms and detailed descriptions visit extension.psu.edu/northampton.
The Lehigh County Open Gate Farm Tour is scheduled the following weekend on Sunday, October 19th from 1:00 to 5:00 p.m. There are 20 farms participating with a range of activities, including educational tours, hayrides, and farm animal petting zoos. For a list of the farms and detailed descriptions visit extension.psu.edu/lehigh.
Take advantage of this once-a-year opportunity to meet your local farmers and learn how your food is produced! There is no charge to go to any of these farms. Visit as many or as few as you like. Both events are rain or shine.
You've heard us say it a thousand times. "PLEASE READ THE LABEL".
This is another reminder.
It's so important. You not only need to know how to mix the material and put it on, you need to know if it's O.K. to put it where you're intending to put it. You need to know what kinds of protectant equipment you need. You need to know whether you must follow up the application with any other activity (like watering it in, for example), and you need to know exactly when the material is supposed to be applied in order to control the organism you're trying to control. Those are only some of the important facts presented on that label.
Reading and following the label can be, and often is, the difference between getting the results you want . . . or total failure.
The Pesticide Education folks at Penn State have posted their "back to School" issue. This year they're sharing pest management and pesticide safety resources.
This is really great stuff. There are insect morphology and metamorphosis posters and pesticide bingo for the younger set. The "Soybean Field Pest Walk" is far more than you might think. It examines common soybean pests, and discusses how much . . . or how little . . . damage they're really causing. It talks about some beneficial insects that are controlling them. In other words, how IPM can work for the soybean grower.
It tells you where to find videos on boom, backpack and rotary sprayer calibration. It talks about this year's Great Insect Fair, coming real soon.
I believe this blog entry may be mislabeled. This isn't just for students. This is for all kinds of folks who use pesticides, or who might use pesticides, conventional or organic, in the future. There's something in here for most of us.
Letting your turfgrass go to seed and reseed itself seems intuitively to be a good way to save on grass seed and improve the thickness of your lawn, but does it work?
It doesn't. James Romer, an extension Horticulture Specialist from Iowa State University explains:
"When lawns go to seed, they do so at the cost of the health of the lawn. Seedhead development requires considerable amounts of carbohydrates. These carbohydrates are diverted from other vital plant parts, such as the rhizomes and crowns. These two plant parts need large quantities of carbohydrates to help the turfgrass recover from damage caused by high temperatures, drought, insects, or diseases. Turfgrass plants regenerate new plants from the buds on the crown and nodes on the rhizome. Consequently, if the carbohydrates have been taken from the crown and rhizome to be used for seed production, the health of the plant will suffer.
Home gardeners should keep their lawns well mowed and not allow the grass to go to seed. Lawns that have been allowed to grow tall should be mowed as soon as possible. Set the mowing height to the highest level, then gradually reduce the height of the grass in later mowings. The ideal height of a bluegrass lawn during the summer months is 3 inches."
The Iowa State web site: http://www.extension.iastate.edu/newsrel/2002/jun02/jun0215.html
Penn State's web site on mowing turfgrasses: http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/factsheets/mowing
Image from: http://www.extension.iastate.edu/newsrel/2003/aug03/aug0308.html
Joe-Pye Weed (Eupatorium) is blooming everywhere. I've seen this native flower while kayaking along the river, in fallow fields, and along roadsides.
This plant makes a stunning addition to a flower garden.
According to the Book of Perennials by Alfred C. Hottes (1929), the common plant name is derived from Joe Pye (or Jopi), an Indian herb doctor in Massachusetts, during Pilgrim times. He is reputed to have cured typhus fever from an extraction of the plant.
Joe-Pye Weed, a tall, vanilla-scented flower, is far from a "weed". It blooms from late summer through fall, offering soft, mauve color when not a lot of other things are blooming.
Due to its stature (up to six + feet tall!), this is a great background plant for your garden, beautiful along a fence or wall. It prefers sun to part shade and is easy to grow, as long as the soil isn't too dry. Butterflies also love it.
Image from: http://www.plantplaces.com/photos/GatewayJoe-PyeWeed,Sedum(Medium).jpg
Joe-Pye Weed can also serve as a focal point, surrounded by lower growing plants.
Image from: http://thewalledgardenblog.blogspot.com/2007/08/colourful-agm-chives-marjorams-and-joe.html
If you have the space, try it in your garden. It spreads by rhizomes, so it may need to be controlled over time. Some cultivars, like 'Gateway', are less aggressive.
(Picture from: http://www.nwf.org/news-and-magazines/national-wildlife/gardening/archives/2013/catering-to-butterfly-royalty.aspx)
Monarchs begin migrating south in the Lehigh Valley from late August through early October. Most monarch butterflies only live a few weeks. But the last generation of monarchs, born in August/September, is the migratory generation. The shorter days and cooler temperatures of autumn prevent the butterflies from maturing enough to reproduce. This allows them to live for months – long enough to fly south for the winter (some fly over 3,000 miles). On the return trip north, several generations are born and die, so it is the great grandchildren that make the trip south every year. These butterflies somehow follow the same migratory routes as their ancestors.
Monarch populations have declined in recent years. Scientists think monarchs may be in trouble in the long term. Planting milkweed (the host plant for the monarch) in your garden or on your property can be one way to help support these butterflies.
If you see monarchs this fall, we love to hear about it.
For more information, see: http://www.fs.fed.us/wildflowers/pollinators/Monarch_Butterfly/migration/index.shtml
During August, hybrid daylily bloom season is winding down except for the very late varieties, and, in some cases, the foliage is beginning to look pretty ratty with browned leaves or leaves with yellowed streaking. There are several causes for the yellowing or browning of the leaves.
It is not unusual for outer leaves to die off as the season progresses, and leaves with browned tips may be suffering from environmental scorch, especially if conditions have been hot and dry and if the plant is subjected to full sun. This will not harm the plant. Dried leaves may be pulled off the plant to tidy it up. Some growers believe that any leaves with green should be left on the plant; others feel that unsightly leaves can be pulled off with no negative effects on the plant. Some growers even cut the plants way back after bloom to encourage new growth. In any of these cases, new leaves continue to emerge from the crown of the plant throughout the season. Keeping your daylilies well watered during periods of drought can help prevent environmental scorch from occurring.
Even though daylilies tend to be fairly pest free, there are some insect pests that can cause yellowing or brown spots on daylily foliage. These include aphids and spider mites so look for signs of these such as stickiness on the foliage or fine webbing on the leaf underside.
One of the most common causes of yellow foliage is daylily leaf streak, a fungal disease caused by Aureobasidium microstictum. The symptoms are a yellowing along the mid-vein of the plant with brown or reddish flecks or oval areas within the yellow areas. The affected leaves may die, although generally the plant itself is not harmed. This is mostly an aesthetic problem. There are several steps to take to help prevent this disease from spreading. First, remove the affected leaves and destroy them, and make sure to clean up dead daylily foliage in the fall so that the spores in them don't overwinter. Secondly, don't overhead water the plants, and don't work with them when they are wet. Also, make sure plants are not too closely spaced since greater air circulation helps decrease the humidity that fungi like. In severe cases, you can try using a fungicide such as chlorothalonil or mancozeb though this is best applied before the problem begins and every 7 to 14 days during wet or humid weather. Be sure to follow directions on the container and make sure it is safe for daylilies. Finally, some daylily cultivars are more resistant than others to leaf streak.
Daylily rust is a fairly recent problem in the US since it is caused by an Asian fungal pathogen, Puccinia hemerocallis, which was brought into Georgia and Florida on infected plants in 2000. It has since spread to at least 30 states. Though the symptoms may look similar to daylily leaf streak, infected plants actually show small, round raised pustules on both sides of the leaf. These release orange spores which show up as a rust-colored powder if you run your fingers or a tissue across the leaves. These can spread rapidly to other leaves and plants. Daylily rust has a complex life cycle that requires 2 hosts for completion. The perennial, Patrinia, is an alternate host in this disease cycle. Again, the sanitation measures suggested for leaf streak are an important means of controlling this disease. Fungicides such as chlorothalonil or products that contain neem oil, potassium bicarbonate, sulfur, or Bacillus subtilis may beused. There is some evidence that the rust spores that can affect daylily plants directly don't survive really cold winters whereas the thicker walled ones that affect Patrinia do. The pathogen can overwinter in daylily foliage that stays living over the winter. However, most daylily cultivars die back to the ground in our area, thus preventing the fungus from being passed on in the spring. As for leaf streak, some daylily cultivars are more resistant to rust than others. Cornell has a very good fact sheet that lists these and discusses rust in general:
Intern Meara wrote this article on raspberries:
Raspberries are one of the most delicate and delicious fruits you can grow in your backyard. They need a lot of careful handling and attention, but your reward will be bowls full of beautiful, tasty fruit.
Raspberries are great for the home gardener because they stay ripe through much of the summer and fall. However, they will produce their best crop if only allowed to fruit in the fall. When choosing your plants, you should be sure to ask when a particular plant will produce ripe fruit. Only buy certified disease-free plants, since most raspberry plants are very susceptible to various diseases. Yellow and red raspberries are the hardiest varieties, and, while black raspberries are delicious, they are extremely vulnerable.
Plant your raspberries in a place with full sun and good air circulation. Avoid high wind areas, as the plants are very fragile. The site should be at least 30 meters away from any wild blackberries or similar fruiting plant that could pass on viruses. Provide well-drained soil that hasn't been used to grow tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, or roses, which can leave diseases behind. If you plant red and yellow raspberries about 2 feet apart, they will fill the space within a year or two.
Regular pruning will encourage high yields of good quality fruit. The pruning required varies depending on the type of raspberries you are growing. Ever-bearers simply need to be cut off at the ground after they are done fruiting.
Berries will not continue to ripen after they are picked, so be sure to pick your fruit when it is at the peak of ripeness. Then make them into desserts, put them on cereal, or just eat them fresh! Here is a link to Penn State's guide to growing bramble fruit:
For even more information on raspberries and all other fruit production for the home gardener, come to the Penn State Extension's workshop, Backyard Fruit Production. Learn how to select the best plants for your yard, and how to properly care for them in order to get a good harvest. The event will be on Saturday, September 6, from1-4 pm, and will take place at Pappy's Orchard in Coopersburg, PA. Come out and learn about planting fruits and berries! Register here:
You will be given the choice of paying the $25.00 fee by credit card or check.
Plants native to your area may take less maintenance than non-natives since they are already adapted to the growing conditions. They also help support a rich community of native wildlife including birds and butterflies. Gardening with natives has become very popular in recent years.
If you'd like to learn more about natives, come join us on October 1, 2014 from 9:00 am to 3:30 pm for a fun and informative workshop about these valuable plants. The class will cover trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants considered native to southeastern Pennsylvania and will give practical information of how you can use these plants in the landscape. Learn key identification characteristics, find out about straight species vs. cultivars, and discover the pest issues and site requirements you should know before choosing some of these plants. Emphasis will be on plants readily available in the nursery trade.
The class, held in the Janssen Center on Penn State's Berks campus in Reading, will include classroom time and hands-on work and a tour of the plants on campus. The instructor is Dr. David Sanford, Professor of Horticulture, Penn State University. The cost of $50 includes lunch and handouts. Registration deadline is September 26, 2014.
You can register online at the following site where you may opt to pay by credit card or check.
If you cannot register online, call the Lehigh County Extension Office at 610-391-9840 for assistance. Office hours are Monday through Friday, 8:00 am to 4:30 pm.
(Picture from http://www.cowboysindians.com/Cowboys-Indians/October-2010/Deborah-Madisons-Farm-Fresh-Recipes/)
This time of year, tomatoes are either ripening faster in your garden than you can keep up with or they're available locally just about everywhere you look. Right now they are delicious as is. But if you're looking for new meal ideas and since it's tomato season, I thought it might be fun to share my top three tomato recipes. Here they are:
This Roasted Tomato Soup from Ina Garten is simple and the flavors are as deep and rich as the color.
When people come to our house for a small, casual dinner in tomato season, I often serve this Big Tomato Sandwich (recipe by Deborah Madison). It's a slightly glorified version the tomato/fresh mozzarella/basil standard.
And this Ravioli and Tomato Salad with Masses of Basil (also from Deborah Madison) is beloved in our house.
What are your favorite tomato recipes this time of year?
(Photo from https://6legs2many.wordpress.com/tag/luna-moths/)
When it comes to gardening, a little laziness is not a bad thing, especially in the fall.
For instance, instead of clipping everything to the ground, leave seed heads on sunflowers, coneflowers, black-eyed Susan, lavender, Russian sage, daisies, goldenrod, and asters. Many birds love these seeds as a source of food in the winter. And beneficial insects often nest in plant stems, so you're doing your garden a favor by letting those stems stand. Sure, these flowers will turn brown and the stems will likely bend in odd ways that don't look very neat and tidy. But later in the winter, instead of nothingness, you get the beauty of the stems jutting up through fallen snow serving as host to a variety winter birds like chickadees, sparrows, and finches.
Raking leaves can be hard work. Consider doing less of it. If you have very heavy leaf fall, rake up enough to preserve your grass, but leave behind what you can. Why? Many butterflies and moths, like the luna moth, winter as a partially grown caterpillar or chrysalis in leaf litter. So by letting your leaves where they lay (which also acts as a natural and organic mulch), you're helping the magical luna moth (and many other butterflies, moths, and insects) through their life cycle.
Some fall cleanup is a good idea. For instance, tidiness in the vegetable garden is helpful for next year's tomatoes. But consider keeping your flower seed heads and letting the leaves be as a kindness to the wildlife around you and for your greater garden health and enjoyment.
This morning while deadheading the daylilies, I discovered a green assassin bug nymph on one of the buds. This was a welcome find since these insects are beneficial predators. Both the nymphs and adults are generalized feeders and will consume a number of different kinds of insects from small aphids to stinkbugs to large caterpillars. Unfortunately, like praying mantids, they also eat beneficial insects and even other assassin bugs as well.
Assassin bugs are members of the family Reduviidae in the order Hemiptera, and there are at least 160 known species in North America. These range in size from about .5 to 1.5 inches, and they vary in color from green to brownish to brightly colored. Their body shape varies from long and narrow like the green assassin bug, Zelus luridus, to much chunkier like some of the ambush bugs. One of the largest is the prehistoric-looking wheelbug, Aristus cristatus, which is characterized by a semicircular serrated crest on the dorsal side of its thorax. All species have long antennae, long legs, overlapping membranous wings that may be narrower than the abdomen, and a narrow head tapering to a distinct neck-like region. Their eyes are rather large and round and colored red in some.
In certain species, it is the adults who overwinter in protected spots. Females lay clusters of eggs on vegetation in warm weather, and these hatch into nymphs which are wingless and smaller and often differently colored than the adults. These molt at least 4 times before reaching maturity.
Like all the Hemiptera, the assassin bugs have a sharp needle-like feeding structure that they use to pierce the body of their prey and suck out digested body fluids. This beak or "rostrum" is short and 3 segmented in the assassin bugs and usually held underneath their body when not in use. Their forelegs are adapted for grabbing prey and may be sticky to help hold the victim in place while they inject their paralyzing venom and enzymes. Though the adults have wings, they are not good fliers. However, they can move very quickly when disturbed or when grabbing prey. Some of them stalk their prey; others lie in ambush among the vegetation. An internet search resulted in some rather gruesome video sequences of these insects capturing and feeding upon their hapless and still living prey! Watch out if you handle them since they are known to bite humans as well, and this can result in a painful burning sensation and occasionally an allergic response! There are species of assassin bugs, known as "kissing bugs" or bloodsucking conenoses, which suck blood from mammal hosts including humans. Although found throughout North America, they are more prevalent in the south and west where control measures may have to be taken to keep them out of houses.
Despite their status as fearsome predators, assassin bugs themselves are preyed upon by spiders, praying mantids, birds, and rodents. Given the prevalence of those in my garden, I wish my little nymph well on its journey through life, and I hope it stays well fed and camouflaged from the sharp eyes of the little wrens who patrol my garden daily!
The growing conditions in our area this spring and early summer have been just wonderful for various weed species which have been, well, "growing like weeds" as the old cliché goes! One of the more vigorous groups has been the wood sorrels of the genus Oxalis. Although these plants prefer nutrient-rich moist soil, they tolerate many conditions from moist to dry and sun to shade and so can be found everywhere in your yard!
Yellow wood sorrel, Oxalis stricta, known also as sheep sorrel, toad sorrel, or sourgrass, is a very common native weed which is probably well known to most gardeners. This upright plant will grow among your flowers, shrubs or vegetables as well as in nursery- or greenhouse-grown container plants and lawns . It has clover-like alternate compound leaves with 3 heart-shaped leaflets. Its dainty flowers are yellow with 5 petals, and it blooms from mid-spring throughout the summer. The fruit is a pointed capsule which contains compartments to hold the seeds. When the capsules dry, they split open explosively and shoot seeds to distances of 10 feet or more. Seed production is this plant's major method of reproduction and dispersal. The seeds themselves are rough and a bit sticky and can easily travel on shoes, clothing and equipment. Yellow wood sorrel is fairly easy to hand weed, and mulching can help prevent seeds from germinating. Many herbicides are not very effective on this plant except for possibly pre-emergent ones.
Creeping wood sorrel, Oxalis corniculata, looks very similar to yellow wood sorrel, but it is prostrate and often has reddish or purplish stems and comes in both green- or purple-leaved varieties. This species was introduced to North America long ago, most likely from Europe. Unlike O. stricta, it can spread by rooting from its stems, and broken stems or roots can regenerate, thus making it more difficult to control than yellow wood sorrel. You must try to pull out the entire plant. This is much easier to accomplish with young plants than with those that have already spread! It also tends to grow in cracks and crevasses as well as in and among groundcover plants such as sedums thus increasing the frustration of trying to get it out of the garden! Like its relative, it also reproduces by launching thousands of seeds from its capsules. Mulching can help control these to some extent. In turf, it is too low to be affected by mowing. Creeping wood sorrel is an alternate host of some disease-causing nematodes and curly top beet virus.
On the positive side, both of these weeds are edible. However, they both contain oxalic acid which, in high amounts, can be toxic enough to cause kidney failure. This can sometimes be a problem for livestock and for people if they consume too much. These plants should not be eaten by anyone with kidney disorders or rheumatoid arthritis. Purportedly, both have a sour, lemony flavor. The wood sorrels have been used in folk medicine as well. Ecologically, both species do provide nectar and pollen for some bees, flies and butterflies, and their seeds and foliage are eaten by mice, rabbits and deer.
Now that school is out, gardening with your kids is a great opportunity for summer learning and fun as well as shared family time. As any gardener knows, you find out a lot about nature as you watch the plant and animal interactions in the garden. Depending upon what you grow, you can entice wildlife such as butterflies and birds. Vegetable gardening teaches children where their food comes from and hopefully stimulates an interest in healthy eating as they follow the progress of a vegetable from seed to the table! Caring for a garden fosters responsibility and provides a way to teach about sustainable practices. Gardening also presents plenty of leeway for creativity, exploration, and exercise! There's a lot of information on the internet about gardening with kids. Here are a few good websites with gardening activity ideas:
We spend a lot of time, money, and energy battling insect pests. However, the majority of insects don't have negative impacts on our gardens, and the beneficial ones should be encouraged whenever possible! Pollinators are , of course, one beneficial group that most people are familiar with. Predatory insects are a second group. The most well known of these are the lady beetles, but my favorite "good guys" are the green lacewings.
Lacewing adults are appropriately named for their long diaphanous wings with a lacy network of veins. These, along with their green slender body and large golden eyes, make them a most attractive insect! The adult stage in most species feeds on nectar and pollen. It is the larval form, often described as looking like a little alligator, that uses its large curved jaws to voraciously munch on all sorts of soft bodied insect pests such as aphids, caterpillars, whiteflies, mites and eggs. In fact, these larvae are often called "aphid lions", and each can eat more than 200 prey per week!
The adult female lacewing lays 400-500 eggs on fine hair-like stalks attached to vegetation, and she often situates them near prey such as aphids. After they hatch, the larvae inject digestive enzymes into their prey and then suck up the digested body tissues. They develop through 3 instar stages before pupating inside spherical cocoons from which adults can emerge again after 2-3 weeks. There may be 2-4 generations per year depending upon environmental conditions. There are many species of green lacewings, often in the genus Chrysoperla. Some of these overwinter as adults and others as pupae.
Research has shown that these helpful insects have a positive impact on controlling pests in both greenhouses and in agricultural fields. You can attract them by planting nectar-producing flowers and by not destroying their prey. Eggs can be purchased as well.
There are also brown lacewing species that are smaller than the green lacewings. In some of these, the adults as well as the larvae are predatory, and these are more cold tolerant so are active earlier in the spring than the green lacewings.
You can read more about lacewings here:
The following reference on beneficial insects is quite interesting with lots of good information:
NOTE: All three photos are from Texas A & M Extension Service
Meara, our wonderful summer intern sends this invitation:
For the most part, people tend to find insects frightening or nasty. Because of their different appearance and habits, they tend to be stuck with a bad reputation. But honey bees appear to occupy a special place in our hearts. Perhaps it is because of their incessant work, and we admire their industriousness. Or it may be the large quantities of delicious, sugary honey that are consumed every year. While these are both excellent reasons to love the honey bee, we often forget how important they are to the entirety of our food industry.
Cantaloupe, apple, cucumber, almond, blueberry, watermelon, and many, many more crops benefit from bee pollination. Over 100 agricultural products in the United States are pollinated entirely by bees. About a third of the food eaten in the US would be impossible without bees. We need to understand Colony Collapse Disorder or CCD, so we can act to prevent further demise of our honeybees.
CCD is characterized by apparently healthy worker bees abandoning their hives in droves, leaving the queen and her young behind to die. They tend to leave behind ample honey reserves. The cause of CCD is not currently known, but researchers are investigating the effects of pesticides, diseases, bee pests and other factors on hive health.
Would you like to learn more about the importance of bees and other pollinators, and how to help them? Join the Penn State Master Gardeners on June 18 at 6:30 pm in the pollinator friendly garden at Burnside Plantation for an educational workshop, "What if there were NO BEES?", and learn how Native Bees help create the ripe foods we enjoy every day.
As we head into muggy summer weather, I've noticed the slug population is increasing. Slugs are actually mollusks. There are a few different species of slugs in Pennsylvania. Some are small; others can reach up to 8 inches long.
Slugs overwinter as eggs, immature or mature slugs in protected areas in fields, including under boards, plastic or decaying vegetation. Slugs are especially troublesome in no-till fields with lots of crop residue. Slugs become active in the spring, continue their life cycle, and when mature they can lay up to 80 spherical, pearly white eggs at a time. They can lay eggs up to 6 times a year.
Slugs damage plants by chewing holes in leaves and fruit. They leave silvery mucous trails where they travel, which is certainly unappetizing on herbs and lettuce. One of their worst habits is their tendency to inhabit the inside lower leaves of head lettuce. Once they have moved into your crop, it is just about impossible to wash them all off, and they can really ruin a nice crop.
If you can prevent the slug population from moving into your crop, you will be able to extend your marketing season. It is critical to start early because after the population builds it is really hard to stop them. Here are some ideas for controlling this pest:
Sanitation- remove all overwintering sites and resting areas prior to planting. This includes loose boards, plant residue and stones.
Traps- set out boards or damp burlap bags in the evening. Slugs are mostly nocturnal and they will hide under the traps in the morning, so you can destroy them.
Natural enemies- Encourage toads, garter snakes, ground beetles. They can be helpful, but are not reliable to completely control slugs.
Diatomaceous earth- Master Gardener Barb Ryan wrote in a previous blog: " Diatomaceous earth comes from fossilized mineral deposits of the silica-containing cell walls or "shells" of once living aquatic algae called diatoms. This mineral, diatomite, is mined in open pits out west, and then chunks of the mineral are pulverized into a flour-like powder. The diatom fragments have sharp microscopic glass-like edges that abrade the outer water-protecting cuticle of the pest causing it to lose water and further dries them out by absorbing protective fats and oils." It can discourage slug populations under dry conditions, but must be reapplied if it gets moist.
Iron phosphate- sold as a granular product. It acts as a stomach poison in slugs and snails by damaging their digestive tissue. Several formulations are allowed by the Organics Materials Review Institute.
Metaldehyde – a pelleted pesticide used to attract and kill slugs by destroying their mucus production thus reducing their mobility and digestion. This is the most toxic choice for slug control and should be used only as a last resort.
Here is a link to a very interesting article about the habits of slugs:http://oregonstate.edu/dept/nurspest/slugs.htm
This link will take you to an article with even more ideas for controlling slugs:http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7427.html
If you choose to use pesticides, always follow the directions on the label.
There are many examples of introduced insects that create problems for gardeners. The azalea lacebug, Stephanitis pyrioides, is one such pest. This delicate-looking insect was introduced from Japan in the early 1900's and has spread along the east coast and recently has been discovered in the west as well. It specifically attacks azaleas, especially the evergreen varieties and also mountain laurels. Whitish stippling of the leaves is one of the characteristic symptoms of this pest and signs include the presence of nymphs, shed nymph skeletons, and shiny black tar-like fecal spots on the undersides of the leaves. These fecal spots are one of the diagnostic features that differentiates this pest from mites which can also cause leaf stippling. Besides creating unattractive foliage, if there is a large enough infestation, these insects can weaken a shrub enough so that it dies.
The adult lacebug is a pretty cream-colored creature with a flattened rectangular body and netted, transparent wings that extend beyond the body. Its wings are marked with a dark X. The nymphs are smaller and darker with a spiny body. This species of lacebug overwinters as eggs that the female inserted into the lower midrib of leaves the previous growing season. These eggs hatch in late April and May, and the nymphs immediately begin to feed on the leaves. They undergo 5 instar stages over the course of about a month and then, as adults, begin the cycle again. Often there are 2 or 3 generations each year. Lacebug adults and nymphs are plant fluid suckers. They use their sharp stylet mouthpart to pierce the plant leaf and suck out tissue from the chlorophyll containing layers inside the leaf. This loss of pigmented tissue leaves the whitish stippling on the surface of the leaf.
One of the best ways to deter a lacebug infestation is to grow your azaleas in the proper environment! Azaleas grown in full sun are 2 times as likely to be attacked by lacebugs. Those that are drought-stressed are also at risk. These acid-loving plants prefer part shade in a soil with a pH between 4.5 and 5.5. Mulching will help retain soil moisture, and they should be watered during a drought. If it is necessary to fertilize them, use a fertilizer designed for acid-loving plants. Luckily there are natural predators, such as ladybugs, lacewings, pirate bugs and spiders, which can also help control lacebugs.
Control measures should be taken early in the season before much stippling has occurred and while the nymph stages are small. Spraying the undersides of the leaves with a strong jet of water may help with mild infestations. Insecticidal soap or 2% horticultural oil or neem products are effective so long as the undersides of the leaves are thoroughly covered. These less toxic products will only destroy the insects which are contacted by the spray, but they may conserve some of the beneficial predators which tend to move around. More than one application may be needed. Alternatively, some synthetic or systemic insecticides can be used. Be sure to read the label to see if lacebugs are one of the target organisms and follow instructions carefully. Finally, there are some varieties of azaleas which are less prone to lacebug attacks, so, if you've had a problem with this insect, you might want to research some of these.
There is also a native lacebug that attacks rhododendrons and mountain laurels and another introduced species that attacks andromedas (Pieris). The life cycles and control measures for these are basically the same as for the azalea lacebug. Inspect your plants regularly for these pests—early detection makes control much easier!
If soft-bodied arthropods such as mites, scale, aphids, thrips, mealybugs, or whiteflies are causing significant damage in your garden, one possible chemical method for controlling them is horticultural oil. Horticultural oil is often made from highly refined petroleum oils to which an emulsifying agent has been added so that the oil will mix with water. Sometimes vegetable oils such as cottonseed oil, soybean oil or neem oil are used instead of the mineral oils. Some types are OMRI approved for organic use. Some have also been used successfully against certain fungi such as powdery mildew. These oils are easily diluted and sprayed on the affected plant using any hose end or tank style sprayer.
In the past, oils such as these were called "dormant oil" and, because of their potential to cause harm to foliage, they could only be used during dormant seasons to kill overwintering insects, mites and eggs. However, improved refinement techniques have purified them even more by removing most of the sulfur-rich impurities that could damage plants during the growing season. For that reason the newer lighter oils are sometimes called "summer oils" or "superior oils". Today, summer oil and dormant oil really only refer to the time and rate of application. The oil you purchase can be used for either application. Generally, a 1 to 2 % solution is used during the growing season and a 3 to 4 % solution during the dormant season, but be sure to carefully follow the instructions on the label of each brand!
Horticultural oil controls pests in several ways. It can clog the breathing tubes of the insect or mite causing suffocation, or it may act as a poison affecting their cell membranes. In some cases, the oil disturbs the feeding behavior of the pest. The benefit of using it is that it is less toxic than synthetic insecticides for people and other animals. It evaporates fairly quickly and has no residual activity so that it is less harmful to beneficial insects, and the pests that it does affect do not become resistant to it. However, it does still have the potential to harm certain plants, and some plants are more sensitive to it than others. These include certain maples, walnuts, hickories, smoke trees, and cryptomeria, and to a lesser extent some junipers, cedars, spruces, and douglas fir. It can change the color of blue-tinged conifers. This is not a complete list, so it is important when using it to first read the label to see what plants might be affected by that formulation! If you are concerned that it may harm the plant you want to use it on, try spraying a small section of the plant first.
There are certain rules you should follow if you want to use this oil. Use only between the temperatures of 40 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, but check the instructions to make sure temperatures aren't even more restricted than this. Don't apply if the foliage is wet or humidity high (greater than 90%)since the longer wet oil stays on the plant, the greater the chance for plant damage. Don't use oil during drought conditions since plants are more prone to damage at this time as well. Watering a day or two ahead of time is a good idea to make sure the plants aren't drought stressed. Don't combine the oil with sulfur containing insecticides. Don't spray when new shoots are rapidly growing in the spring or in the fall after September in the Northeast. When applying it with a sprayer, make sure to agitate frequently so it remains well mixed. Used properly, horticultural oil can be a safe and effective method to control some of the most common garden pests!
This is from Master Gardener Coordinator Erin Frederick:
While some of my friends may turn up their noses, I absolutely love a hoppy beer, especially on a hot day. Here are a few facts about the plant that produces such wonderfully citrusy and bitter flavors:
Hops are perennial plants with climbing stems, called bines, which can grow up to 20 or 30 feet long. The bines die back each year and re-grow the following year.
Hops are planted not by seed, but by planting rhizomes (thick underground stems that have roots and shoots growing from it). Only rhizomes from female plants are used since the hops are harvested for their female cones.
For decent yields, hops need to be trellised. Backyard growers can make do with a shorter trellis, a side of a garage or a chimney. Most hop farmers use an overhead trellis system, which consists of 15-foot-high poles spaced every 5 plants. The poles are connected by overhead wire cables that run both down and across the rows. On average, hop farmers have approximately 55 poles per acre.
Large acreages of hops are mechanically harvested with specialized equipment. Small acreages are generally hand-harvested by removing individual cones as they mature utilizing a ladder or a cherry picker. The bines could also be cut, pulled down and harvested all at once.
In 2013, Washington State produced about 80% of the U.S. hop crop. Across the country, there were 35,244 acres in hops yielding a harvest of 69,343,900 pounds!
Grow Your Own: Want to learn to grow your own hops or brew your own beer? Join us at Funk Brewing Company on June 7th from 1:00 to 4:00 p.m. for our Crafting Beer 101 Workshop. For more information or to register, visit http://www.cvent.com/events/crafting-beer-101/event-summary-760baa251fc147afab34abafbf44a24e.aspx
Sources: http://www.usahops.org/userfiles/image/1388461395_National%20Hop%20Report-NASS%2012-13.pdf
We had two questions today about maple trees with leaf spots. Here are some pictures of one of the samples that came in.
This might be anthracnose on maple. The term 'anthracnose' refers to diseases caused by a group of fungi that cause dead spots on leaves in humid weather, often in the spring when the temperatures are cool. Some of the anthracnose causing fungi can also kill twigs and small branches. This often occurs with sycamore anthracnose and dogwood anthracnose.
Anthracnose on maple usually affects just the leaves, but can move into small twigs if the weather conditions are right. The sample I looked at today only had affected leaves.
Dr. Gary Moorman from Penn State describes maple anthracnose: "Young unfolding leaves are distorted and develop greenish-brown to dark-brown spots at their tips, along their margins and between the veins. When fully-expanded leaves are attacked, light-brown to tan blotches form. Severely infected leaves fall prematurely. Disease severity is greatest on the lower branches."
Maple anthracnose looks dramatic, but in most cases it does not greatly affect the health of the tree. As the weather gets warmer and drier, the conditions are no longer right for infection, and the spots stop happening. Even though the worst affected leaves may fall prematurely, maple trees will continue to push new leaves at the tips of the branches and if the new leaves are not infected, they will expand and make the tree look better.
Dr. Moorman recommends you rake up and destroy infected twigs and branches during dormancy to remove the spores of the fungus that can overwinter on your property. There are fungicides available that can prevent the infection from happening if used preventatively, but you have to make repeated applications, according to the label directions, until the weather changes. This is not an attractive option for most home gardeners.
Here is a link to the Penn State Plant Disease Fact sheets with information about anthracnose diseases on other trees. http://extension.psu.edu/pests/plant-diseases/tree-shrub-and-woody-vine-diseases?b_start:int=0
Master Gardener Mike sends these thoughts on bamboo.
Clearly spring has sprung with forsythia blooms, tree buds, fern fiddleheads and – for better or worse – bamboo shoots. While to some folks bamboo is and can be an attractive plant providing all year interest and a natural privacy fence; it is completely unwanted by others. This article is for those for whom bamboo spells dread.
In the Lehigh Valley, May and June provides much excitement – as well as fear – over the relentless, unyielding pushing through the earth of bamboo shoots.
In our area, the most frequently occurring culprit is the bamboo Phyllostachys areolsulcata. Commonly referred to as crooked stem bamboo and yellow bamboo, it is the running and spreading group often seen on roadsides and in backyards.
The first indication that bamboo is where it shouldn't be is the appearance of "shoots" (see photo) coming up where you don't want to see them. They start slowly – like the sprouting tips of Hosta – but then morph into canes, or "culms", rising 30' or more with a thickness of up to 2" in diameter, and quickly. Mature bamboo plants can reach their maximum height in six weeks, so acting sooner rather than later is critical.
The first – and easiest – thing you can do is to simply step on or clip the shoot at its base as it begins to emerge. In most cases that will do it for that particular shoot, for this particular season. However, that shoot was growing up from a rhizome 6" below that can rapidly spread 20' in any direction. Some people dealing with larger groves simply mow young shoots with a lawn mower, which will certainly work for removing what you can see, but doesn't really address the spread of the rhizomes lurking below the surface. The shoots will be back next year if not later this season. The good news here is that the rhizomes beneath tend to die back eventually after repeated clipping and mowing.
Second, you can dig the rhizomes out with tools ranging from shovels and pick axes to back hoes. Total removal is the ultimate solution but the operative word here is "total"; you have to find it all. Total removal can be expensive and is labor intensive. And, if part of the grove is on your neighbor's property, the consideration of responsibility may come into play.
One method I've personally used with a modicum of success is the "surgical application" of glyphosate. Glyphosate is the active ingredient of the product commonly known as Round Up (there are similar products sold under other brand names) and is available in most garden centers and big box stores. The content of glyphosate by volume should be at least 40% to be effective. Of course, it is imperative to wear protective clothing such as glasses and gloves when handling any concentrated chemical. Follow all the directions on the label.
To apply, simply cut the emerging young shoot(s) at or close to ground level and directly apply a dab of the liquid glyphosate to the remaining cut portion of the shoot. I normally pour 3-5 ounces of the herbicide into a glass jar with a screw top and apply it with a small throw away, touch up paint brush. Just walk around your property and, when you see a shoot, cut it, apply a dab of glyphosate with a brush stroke. It's actually a lot easier than picking weeds.
If applied properly and diligently over several spring seasons this method can be both effective and will not readily harm surrounding plant material. An upside of using glyphosate to contain running bamboo is that it also tends to kill back the "mother" rhizome from which it came.
To be sure, bamboo that is planted with consideration and care can be a most attractive and utilitarian addition to anyone's garden. You should use underground barriers to keep it from moving out of the intended site. It's an evergreen, it's disease resistant and the canes can be used for myriad purposes. As they say, one man's trash . . .
Here is a link to more information on controlling bamboo:
Erin Frederick, our Master Gardener Coordinator sends this invitation to our readers:
With lots of young plants in the ground and (finally!) warm, sunny weather, I've been making the most of my 3 rain barrels. If you don't have a rain barrel, you should consider it. Rain barrels are great water-saving devices and ideal for gardens. The barrel sits underneath your downspout and collects water after it rains, which can then be used to water plants in your yard on a dry day. Using a rain barrel helps save drinking water (a precious, finite resource) and can decrease your water and sewer bills. The water collected from rain events is also better for plants than treated municipal water, which often contains chlorine.
Rain barrels also reduce nonpoint source pollution. If you're not familiar with the term, nonpoint source pollution is created as rain water passes over land surfaces and picks up contaminants as it drains to our local streams and rivers (i.e. driveways and roads are coated with motor oil residue and road salt; agricultural fields often have fertilizers and pesticides applied). Since rain barrels reduce the amount of water that runs off your property, they also reduce the amount of nonpoint source pollution.
If you'd like to build your own barrel, join Penn State Extension Master Gardeners and Master Watershed Stewards on Wednesday, May 21st at the Seed Farm in Emmaus. You can choose between 3 sessions: 5:30 – 6:15 p.m.; 6:15 p.m. – 7:00 p.m.; and 7:00 – 7:45 p.m. In this workshop, volunteers will guide you through the process of constructing your own, fully functioning rain barrel. The workshop fee of $40 includes a plastic 55-gallon drum and all the necessary parts and assistance to build your own barrel. The workshop also includes a tour of The Seed Farm, an organization that is growing new farmers by providing them with training, equipment, and land which eliminates the top three barriers to farm entry and opens the doors for a new generation of farmers.
To register, visit http://www.cvent.com/events/rain-barrel-workshops/event-summary-457a1fac8ebc4716b8056cb04f5ba325.aspx
It's spring and the wild garlic is happy! Wild garlic is described in the reference "Weeds of the Northeast" as "a bulbous perennial with grass-like leaves that emerge in the early spring. All plant parts have a strong scent of garlic or onion when crushed." It shows up in both your lawn and gardens.
I think one of the best ways to deal with mild infestations of wild garlic in home lawns and gardens is to get out there in spring with your favorite weeding tool and pull or dig it out as best you can. Weeding is never 100%, but when the soil is moist and not too compacted, these weeds come out pretty quickly, and if the infestation isn't too bad, results could happen a lot faster than by trying to control it with chemicals.
Wild garlic can be a tough weed to control with herbicides. Repeated annual applications will probably be required. For chemical recommendations if growing in the lawn, check this table:
These recommendations from Georgia are helpful too. The timing is for Georgia's climate, so Pennsylvania growers will have to make adjustments: http://www.commodities.caes.uga.edu/turfgrass/georgiaturf/WeedMngt/weedcontrol/garlic.htm
Douglas Firs get diseases. The diseases we've been seeing most often in the Lehigh County Extension office in recent years are Swiss and Rhabdocline needlecasts. When it has a needlecast disease a Douglas-fir drops its needles after only one year instead of keeping them for multiple years.
These two diseases can be treated, but it requires multiple fungicide applications during the Spring. You're trying to protect the newly growing needles from infection. Last year's needles, which are already infected, will fall off, so you might not notice too much of a difference in the fullness of the tree the first year of treatment. But from then on, the tree should hold on to the uninfected needles for as long as it should, as long as you keep up the spring treatments for preventing infection. You can't "cure" the disease.
We recommend that whichever of the two needlecast diseases seems to be showing up, treat as though the tree has Rhabdocline needlecast. This takes into account the fact that Douglas firs can have both diseases at the same time, and also, plant pathologists have been recommending a longer window of treatment for Swiss needlecast than they did in the past.
Here are the pathology department's recommendations. Chlorothalonil is widely available and effective.
Needlecast diseases:
I routinely ask about soil drainage when trying to troubleshoot plant demise. Some of the worst cases of plant death in the landscape I have seen were caused by installing plants into poorly drained soils. However, it seems to be an often overlooked consideration when new landscapes are installed.
So, what is the drainage like? I sometimes hear this answer: "it is great; the site is on a slope." This sounds convincing, but remember just because a site is on a slope does not mean the soil drains well. If the soil is poorly drained clay and you dig a planting hole, the water will still puddle in the bottom of the hole. It is like having a bathtub on a slope.
You really can't tell what the drainage is like by looking at the surface. To really get to the bottom of this question, all you have to do is a simple drainage test. This easy test can save you from choosing the wrong plant for the site and save you a lot of money in replacement costs.
There are plants that can thrive in poorly drained soils. Many of them are native plants that are adapted to bottomlands and flood plains. Where can you find information about these plants? Michael Dirr from the University of Georgia includes lists of plants that tolerate wet soils in the appendix of some of his textbooks. The "Book of Lists" by Bonnie Lee Appleton from Virginia Tech and Lois Trigg Chaplin, garden writer and editor, is another great source of information on which plants will grow in specific conditions, including wet sites.
For more information on site analysis and planting trees, follow these links:
Planting ornamentals: http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uj253.pdf
Planting and aftercare of community trees: http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/uh143.pdf
Dutchman's Breeches (Dicentra cucullaria) is a dainty wildflower that announces the arrival of spring to me since this little native plant is the first to appear and bloom in my shade garden. It is endemic to deciduous woodlands of eastern North America and blooms around the same time as forsythia in our area. It is easily recognized by it's 6-12 inch grayish green ferny foliage and by its distinctive white flowers that look like upside down pantaloons. This spring ephemeral naturalizes readily in the humus-rich moist soil of part-shade to shade gardens. It spreads by bulblets which separate from its underground tuberous rootstock. Its flowers are pollinated by bumblebees, and the resulting seeds are spread by ants, so it may pop up in areas far from where you planted it! However, you should inter-plant it with other plants since its leaves yellow and shrivel in June as it becomes dormant. It's also known as "staggerweed" since cattle or horses that graze on high amounts of it can stagger drunkenly due to the neurological effects of toxic substances that all parts of the plant contain.
A similar species found in Pennsylvania is Dicentra canadensis, which is known as Squirrel Corn. This 8-12 inch plant blooms a bit later than Dutchman's Breeches, and it gets its name from its underground bulblets that are yellow and resemble corn. Its white flowers are more heart-shaped like old fashioned Bleeding Heart. It also becomes dormant in summer.
This species is on the threatened or endangered list in some states.
A third Pennsylvania relative of these plants, which is found naturally in the Allegheny Mountains, is Dicentra eximia or Fringed Bleeding Heart. Like the other two, it has fern-like leaves, but it begins to send up stems bearing pink flowers in late spring and continues blooming on into mid-summer. Deadheading can extend the bloom season to fall. Its flowers look similar to the non-native Bleeding Heart (D.spectabilis), but it is a shorter (12-18 inches) and much daintier plant. Unlike its relatives, it doesn't go dormant. There are several cultivars and hybrids available, the most familiar being the pink-flowered 'Luxuriant'. White flowering forms can also be found. It grows well in either part shade or part sun and is very nice in a woodland garden or shady rock garden.
All three of these wildflowers are susceptible to being outcompeted by invasives in their native habitats which is one more reason to try to incorporate them into your garden plans. I haven't tried growing Squirrel Corn yet, but the other two are relatively easy to grow so long as they don't sit in wet conditions during the winter. Their lovely foliage and unique flowers are certainly worth the effort!
Cheerful yellow flowers adorn mats of shiny heart-shaped green leaves in various areas of my yard right now. Much as I have looked forward to spring after this long winter, I am not happy to see these invaders in my yard! This is the invasive weed known as Lesser celandine or Fig Buttercup, Ranunculus ficaria.
Lesser celandine can be identified not only by its basal rosette of heart-shaped leaves , but also by the light tan stem bulblets that can be seen along the stem after flowering. In addition, tubers on its roots are plainly visible when the plant is dug up. The flowers are held above the leaves on a naked stem, and they are yellow with 3 green sepals and 7 to 12 yellow petals. This is a perennial spring ephemeral whose leaves will disappear by June only to reappear the following winter.
Lesser celandine, native to north Africa and Europe, was probably introduced to the United States as an ornamental plant. The problem with this plant is that it tends to cover large areas and competes with native spring ephemerals such as Virginia bluebells, Dutchman's breeches, trout lilies and others for space and nutrients. It is an aggressive plant that spreads not only by seeds, but also vegetatively via its root tubers and stem bulblets. This makes it particularly difficult to eradicate from an area since it is hard to remove all parts of the plant, and, in fact, weeding can inadvertently spread the plant! The bulblets and seeds can also be dispersed by rodents and other animals.
Small stands can be controlled by vigilant mechanical weeding, but be sure to bag up all bulblets and root tubers for disposal. Each tuber or bulblet left behind can give rise to another plant! Chemical control involves the use of glyphosate which should be applied in late winter to early spring (March-May) on days when the temperature is above 50 degrees. Later in the season, the nonselective glyphosate may remove other desirable native plant species. If near wetlands, be sure to use a wetland-approved glyphosate product, and, of course, follow instructions carefully. This website gives more information about this plant:
Lesser celandine can be confused with our desirable native marsh marigold Caltha palustris . This native, also a member of the buttercup family, does not have tubers on its roots or bulblets along its stem, and its flowers are a bit different. It forms solitary clumps rather than large mats. This website compares the two:
This is from one of our Master Gardeners Sarina. She is getting ready to teach a class on herbs and compiled this list of useful herbs to grow:
"I will focus on some herbs that do well indoors or outdoors, so that you can enjoy your containers year round. Herbs grown indoors are usually less productive than outdoor plants, but they'll still give you plenty of fabulous flavor for your favorite dishes.
Rosemary: A perfect addition to everything from pasta sauces, to lamb, to seafood, rosemary is a hardy plant outdoors that can grow well indoors. If possible, find a windowsill with strong southern light for your fragrant rosemary plant. Good drainage is especially important for rosemary; be sure not to overwater it.
Thyme: A subtle aroma and a slightly minty flavor make thyme a favorite for cooking poultry, fish and soups. Thyme is an easy herb to grow indoors as long as it has plenty of sunshine and not too soggy conditions.
Sage: So tasty with pork dishes, sage doesn't like its feet to stay wet, so make sure its soil is always well-drained. Watch that its saucer stays dry as well. You'll find that sage grows more slowly indoors than outdoors, but your snipping encourages new growth.
Cilantro (aka coriander): You've probably seen it referred to with both names, and both are correct. Cilantro refers to its leaves, and coriander names the plant's seeds. The distinctive flavor and lemony scent of this herb is popular in Mexican dishes and in Asian cuisine.
Oregano: There are many varieties of oregano as well. Harvest leaves often to encourage new growth. Oregano remains productive for up to two years and should be replaced when plants become woody. Light green in color with a lovely light fragrance, oregano can thrive indoors. A native of the Mediterranean region, oregano likes it sunny, warm and dry. Add it to your tomato-based sauces and soups for wonderful flavor.
Parsley: Not just useful as a garnish, just a few leaves of parsley can add fresh flavor to a simple winter soup or pasta dish. A healthy parsley plant will put down a sizeable root system, so be sure to choose a pot that is a least six inches deep and repot as necessary. Cut the outer leaves when harvesting. This will spur new growth from the center and keep parsley remaining productive for several months or more
Lavender: The lovely scent of fresh lavender can be a valuable addition to your indoor herb garden. If your lavender plant gets at least gets three to four hours of sunlight a day, it can easily grow up to more than two feet tall! As it outgrows your windowsill, consider moving your lavender plant to its own plant stand near a sunny window.
Basil : Grown as an annual. There are many verieties of basil with different aromas and tastes. Some are lemony, some spicy. Mix several in a container for a nice variety.
Bay : Grows slowly at first but will eventually form a bush. Many recipes list Bay leaf as an ingredient for flavor and aroma.
Chives : A grasslike perennial herb with a delicate onion flavor. Cut small bunches of leaves back to the soil level when harvesting to keep new ones coming.
Marjoram: This Mediterranean native belongs to the oregano family, but its flavor is distinctively sweeter and more delicate. There are several varieties of marjoram that can be added to many recipes.
Mints are good choices for growing in pots. Be sure to give mint its own container as it can easily overtake other herbs. Mints come in many varieties and is another plant that grows more the more it is harvested.
Tarragon:Tarragon's anise, licorice-like flavor is best matched with lamb, fish, beef and vegetables. Place your tarragon plants in full sun. If using containers, plant your tarragon in a 8-inch-deep pot.
Lemon Balm:
In the culinary world, chefs prize lemon balm for its light, refreshing aroma and taste, often described as lightly lemon with a hint of mint. The fresh leaves yield the best results in cooking, though the dried leaves and stems are often used for making tea. The leaves produce a mild, lemony tea, and they're often added to black or green teas for extra flavor. Whole or chopped fresh lemon balm leaves also add flavor to green salads, fruit salads, vegetable dishes, poultry stuffing and marinades for fish, and they provide a nice accompaniment to corn, beans, broccoli, asparagus, shell fish and lamb."
For those of you who are cursing any late spring snow, you may want to change your tune after reading this. Snow is not that different from mulch. The white stuff reduces the drying effects of rough winds and buffers soils against large temperature fluctuations. Snow also acts like an insulating blanket for bulbs, perennial roots, and root crops. Freeze-thaw cycles can do damage to delicate root hairs and plant cells, so anything that reduces the severity or frequency of these cycles is helping the plant. Freeze-thaw cycles also lift bulbs from deeper soil to more the exposed upper layers where sun, weather, and critters can do damage. So, the next time you shovel the driveway, think of it as a gardening project and take a little extra time to pile snow around landscape plants under eaves that may not have been covered.
The Lehigh and Northampton County Master Gardeners invite you to join the fun and learning at the Workshops for the Gardener on Saturday, April 12 at the PPL Walbert Training Center, 1639 Church Road, Allentown, PA from 8:00 a.m. – 3:30 p.m. Our entertaining keynote speaker, Steve Bogash from Penn State Extension, will share the results of his tomato taste-testing research, so you can choose the tastiest varieties to grow in your garden this year. Since 2000, Steve has evaluated more than 300 varieties of heirloom and hybrid tomatoes for flavor, yield and marketability. Heirlooms taste the best, right? Come find out what Steve's research has found!
Steve will also share his knowledge of growing cut flowers for home bouquets. Our own Master Gardeners will round out the rest of the schedule with classes on year round garden maintenance, mosquitos and ticks and how to protect yourself from the diseases they carry, ten plants that changed the world, African violets, gardening in the shade, growing herbs in containers, how to make a rain barrel, and garden photography.
Sound like a fun thing to do this spring? Follow this link to see the agenda and registration information:
My soil is definitely not reday for sowing so I'm turning my attention to my trees and shrubs that were damaged during all of the winter storms. Pruning helps trees and shrubs maintain their structural integrity and health and gives them a beauty boost. Penn State Extension recommends pruning the following:
When to prune:
For more information on pruning, including diagrams that show you where and how to cut, you can download Penn State Extension's brochure, Pruning Landscape Trees, from http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/uh099.pdf.
There's still some snow on the ground, but spring is coming! St. Patrick's Day is a traditional pea-sowing day in the northeast and other cool-weather crops like arugula, mache, and spinach would be happy to be sown as soon as the ground is workable. Sowing these seeds now gives them the benefit of getting a great start before summer heat sets in. As soon as the ground gas thawed, check to see the condition of the top few inches of soil. You're waiting for the top layer to be dry and crumbly enough that it doesn't stick to a tool when you run it across the surface. If, like me, your soil is more like clay, it may take longer to dry out than loamy soil. Before sowing the seeds may sure that you remove any weeds that are lurking - it's much easier to remove them now before your seedlings come up and the weeds get aggressive. If your soil needs ammending (Have you had your soil tested lately? If not, visit your local Penn State Cooperative Extension office to get a soil test kit.) add compost, fertilizer, or other amendments. To sow, create furrows that are the right depth for your seeds - usually 2-3 times their width. An easy tactic is to mark the correct depth on the side of a board and press the edge of the board into the soil to that line. Small seeds like lettuce and arugula will be planted in shallow furrows, while larger seeds like peas will need to be planted deeper. Once the seeds are in, make sure they stay watered and congratulate yourself on getting a jump on the growing season. If you are interested in more recommendations for home gardeners in Pennsylvania, Penn State Cooperative Extension's brochure Vegetable Gardening is availabel at http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/agrs115.pdf.
(Image from http://www.westernperspective.com/pennsylvanias-laurel-mountain-snow-dusted-and-beautiful/)
As February comes to a close, we're all tired of the snow. This year, there's been continual snow on the ground for a very long time -- not the longest ever, yet, but it's up there in the record books.
The bright side of this long-term snow cover is that it's been slowly melting here and there and that's helping to recharge groundwater in our area, important for our gardens, as well as stream and ecosystem health. Bryan Swistock, water resource specialist from Penn State Extension says, "The snow pack that accumulates during an average winter insulates the soil underneath it keeping the soil largely unfrozen and able to absorb water from melting snow. Since trees and other plants are dormant during early spring, most of the snowmelt water entering the soil infiltrates deep below the surface where it recharges ground water aquifers."
For more on the importance of snow pack, click here.
When I was growing up, I was taught to look for robins as the first sign of spring. But as it turns out many robins stay around all year, so seeing them in winter is common and doesn't relate to spring's arrival. But, red cardinals, which are also around all winter, start to sing for mates this time of year and that IS a sign of spring.
This past week, I heard cardinals start singing for this first time. The timing is a little later than usual, but not by much. What does a cardinal sound like? Watch this short video.
Why should we care? We can get by without knowing common birdcalls and most people do, but the language of the land and nature around us is full of information and knowledge we can't access if we don't know how to look and listen. The cardinal song tells me outdoor gardening starts very soon now and thank goodness for that!
(image from http://www.city-of-rochester.org.uk/friends-of-the-vines-snowdrop-planting/)
The snow is deep after this most recent storm. So deep it's hard to believe there might be flowers sleeping underneath, ready to bloom as soon as the warmth returns to melt the snow. It will happen soon now, despite what it looks like at the moment.
The first to appear will be white snowdrops, which often burst right through the snow still on the ground. Snowdrops are closely followed by bright yellow winter aconites. Both of these flowers come from small bulbs that once planted in the fall require very little and give much when we're all tired of old man winter.
(image from http://www.hortmag.com/plants/plants-we-love/winter-aconite)
(image from http://beneficialbugs.org/bugs/Honeybee/honey_bee.htm)
Want to know about the state of bees both globally and locally?
Or are you interested in keeping bees and producing your own honey?
Over the next couple months there are lots of opportunities to learn more about honeybees. Check these out:


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Dreams will come true when you decorate your venue with this castle column!
Our Dream Come True Column is printed with silver swirls and accents of blue. Each Fairytale Castle Column is printed on cardboard measuring 7 feet 4 inches high x 10 1/2 inches wide. Use this Dream Come True Column as a great add-on fairytale prop for your next event. Easy assembly.