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Can you believe we've reached the home stretch on 2014?
Thanksgiving is upon us, and we'll spend the next five weeks eating and liking and promising a diet Jan. 1. No?
The weather has cooperated with the season and the decorations seemingly have gone up in record time.
They call it the most wonderful time of the year, and for good reason. Our city comes alive at the holidays.
Downtown, residents of Savannah's famous squares pour out, set up a table with food and drink and share some time decorating those squares.
And seemingly every municipality in the region gathers around to put up their tree, almost like the final scene from "How the Grinch Stole Christmas" but without the dog, sled or the heist.
It's enough reason to make us smile and get all warm and fuzzy during this holiday time, but the reality is we have reason to be thankful all year long.
We are fortunate enough to live in a very special place. Thirteen million people come through here every single year.
You know they are coming for more than a picture of a statue or some fried chicken.
I parked two blocks away from a meeting this morning at 7 a.m. and walked down the middle of Bull Street in the rain. Along the double yellow lines. So I got wet? Big deal.
But I was as mesmerized by this city's glow in the morning rain as I am any other day or night in Savannah.
I personally consider myself extremely lucky and am very thankful for a great many things this city has to offer.
• I'm thankful for the growth this city has seen and will see going forward. Regardless of where you stand on what is going on down on Broughton Street, I am a believer that progress is good. Hotels going up everywhere and more on the way.
• We all should be thankful that new restaurants in town are forcing others to notice and "up their game." I had one manager recently refer to "shiny new pennies" all over town that are attracting people. Pacci is beautiful. The Florence is, as well. Rue de Jean, once they open, will be a fantastic new addition to this city and The Grey at 109 MLK Blvd. has a chance to be the best of them all. Time will tell, but it is a good conversation to have.
• I'm personally thankful for the remarkable growth the Savannah Food and Wine Festival showed in year two. I think overwhelming is a fair word. I was told ticket sales were up 198 percent leading up to that week and I think every single one of those people showed up at Taste of Savannah. If you were there, you know there were some issues with logistics. I have no problem saying that. I also do know those issues will be addressed and corrected. Big time. Growing too quickly is a good problem to have. My two cents, anyway.
• I'm thankful for scent of shallots cooking down in rendered bacon fat. Onions work, as well. Sorry, I digress.
• We should be thankful for Ele and Chef Sean Tran's dedication to their restaurants. We've had the opportunity to enjoy King and I and Tangerine for years, but have you seen the lines at Flying Monk on Broughton Street? Right across the street from what many believe is the city's best seafood spot at Chive?
• Thankful that the guys, Seth and Patrick, at Betty Bombers are rebuilding after a devastating fire. Yes, the city has had its say on the re-build inside of the American Legion Hall on Bull Street, but Betty Bombers is in the middle of that re-build right now. They will be open soon. No dates yet. My first Ultimate Chicken Sub will be a celebration.
• Thankful that an Austrailian decided to set up shop here, completely re-design a space on Bull and Oglethorpe and call it Collins Quarter. Anthony Debreceny is working 17 hours a day in his place. That's a large reason why so many are eating and liking.
• I'm very thankful that Paula Deen got up off the canvas and got back to work this year. There is not a person reading this right now who hasn't been challenged by adversity. How you respond to it is really what defines you. I think Ms. Paula has done just fine.
• I'm thankful for that Triple Decker Turkey Club Sandwich at Crystal Beer Parlor. Toasted rye and cheddar, please.
• We should be thankful for young, passionate visionaries like Ruel Joyner. There is seriously not a word that comes out of his mouth that I think isn't somehow intended for improving quality of life in his hometown.
• I'm thankful for the culinary talent that has chosen to either return to Savannah or stay here and try to create a better food scene. Karl Mace, James Levins and Matt Roher are just three names. But there are many. So many guys and gals leave for the big city first chance they get. We need more to stay here.
• And finally, I am incredibly thankful to all of you for your support of "Eat It and Like It," including those of you who take a moment to say hello in public and those of you who watch our television show. Ratings are great and 2015 will be even better.
So thank you and Happy Thanksgiving!
Hopefully this morning finds your turkey thawing, your refrigerator full and your pantry stocked in anticipation of your Thanksgiving feast. If not, you might want to start checking around to see what restaurants are open tomorrow!
This will be my first Thanksgiving with my parents living Savannah, so Mama and I will be preparing our feast in my kitchen this year instead of hers. I will be the one rising early this year to get the ham in the oven while Steve gets the turkey going in the smoker.
Mama has done it for many, many years, but this year, she can sleep in a little bit. I'm so looking forward to having my house full of Thanksgiving smells and hungry family. I am blessed beyond measure and have more to be thankful for than I deserve. God has been so gracious with his love!
So after the turkey is consumed and the kitchen looks like a tornado ripped through it, how many of you are heading out to the stores for Black Friday deals? Well, ya'll have fun with that!
Oh, I did it for years, especially when the children were small. We would hit the stores in Augusta at 5:30 a.m. and shop until we couldn't take one more step. Before the weekend was over, I would have 99 percent of my Christmas shopping purchased. I would then take them home and bribe my best friend's daughter to get them all wrapped. She loved my spaghetti and liked to wrap presents. All I had to do was call and say the spaghetti sauce is on, and she would be sitting in the middle of my living room floor within minutes, wrapping all my presents!
These days, I usually buy my Christmas presents on the last day Amazon guarantees normal delivery by Christmas and wrap them after Christmas Eve
services. I don't know what I would get my children if it they didn't send me their Amazon wish list! Instead of the click, click, click of reindeer on my roof, I click, click, click my keyboard and hopefully it all arrives on my door step in time to get it under the tree.
One thing I miss the most about Christmases BMS (before Miss Sophie's) is food gift giving. In my young years, I made candied orange peels, divinity and the sorts, and delivered them to neighbors in pretty little Christmas tins. The first year I was in Savannah, I baked banana bread and cookies, then got up real early on Christmas morning and laid them at a few of my neighbors' doors along with their morning paper.
Giving food makes people smile. It says, "I care for you enough to take time out of my hectic life and make something special for you."
It doesn't have to be some long complicated recipe – it doesn't even have to be all homemade. A simple homemade item, like a flavored butter paired with a fresh loaf of bread purchased at a bakery would be a perfect gift for Christmas morning breakfast.
Here are a few simple recipes that you can make without a lot of effort or a lot of money. Stay home this weekend and cook your Christmas gifts – it will be far more satisfying than sitting in traffic or standing in a long checkout line!
Teri Bell is co-owner of Miss Sophie's Marketplace at the National Museum of the Mighty Eighth Air Force in Pooler. Go to sophiesmarketplace.com.
1 (12 oz.) pkg. fresh cranberries
2 (10 oz.) pkg. frozen strawberries
4 c. sugar
1 (3 oz.) pkg. liquid pectin
Coarsely chop cranberries in a food processor. Combine cranberries, strawberries, and sugar in a Dutch oven; bring to a boil and cook for 1 minute, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat; add pectin to mixture. Return to full rolling boil; boil 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, and skim off foam with a metal spoon.
Pour jam into hot jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace, wipe jar rims. Cover with metal lids and rings. Process jars in a boiling water bath for 5-7 minutes. Yields 7 half pints. Remove with jars and place on a kitchen towel. Allow to cool. Lids should not give when pressed with finger.
2 sticks salted butter, softened
1/3 cup finely chopped sweetened dried cranberries such as Craisins
1/4 cup local honey
1 teaspoon grated orange peel
In a small bowl, beat all ingredients until blended well.
1 stick of butter, softened
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
In a small bowl, beat all ingredients until blended well
This cake embraces the tartness of the cranberries and orange. Make this in made in small loaf pans, wrap with plastic wrap and put a bow on top for a perfect gift!
1-1/2 cups sugar
1 cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup orange juice
1 tablespoon grated orange peel
1 teaspoon Orange Extract
3 cups self-rising flour
1 can whole-berry cranberry sauce
1 cup chopped walnuts
1 cup confectioners' sugar
2 to 3 tablespoons orange juice
In a large bowl, combine sugar and mayonnaise until blended. Beat in orange juice, peel and extract. Combine the flour, baking soda and salt until blended; gradually add to the sugar mixture. Stir in cranberry sauce and walnuts. Cut waxed or parchment paper to fit the bottom of a 10-in. tube pan.
Spray the pan and paper with cooking spray. Pour batter into prepared pan.
Bake at 350° for 55-65 minutes or until a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean. Cool in pan for 10 minutes. Turn cake out unto a cooling rack. Using a long skewer, poke several holes in the cake and pour icing over warm cake. Allow to cool completely before slicing.
Icing: In a small bowl, combine confectioner sugar and orange juice using enough orange juice to make icing "pourable" icing ingredients; drizzle over cake removing to a wire rack to cool completely. In a small bowl, combine icing ingredients.
We've all cracked the jokes about retailers getting a jump on the holidays.
You see Christmas trees, light displays and inflatables going up at the warehouse stores around Labor Day and the flood of social media snark begins: It's too early! It's too hot outside to be thinking about the holidays! Enough already!
We've all been there. Add to that, over the weekend I saw a handful of Christmas-related TV commercials. Black Friday promotions are already live and well. The reality is that won't change any time soon. Anything to get a jump, right? In the spirit of all of that (frankly) foolishness, I am going to share your first taste of holiday cheer in our time together here. I've decided to go ahead and share this information this week because by Nov. 27, it will be Thanksgiving and lots of plans will already be made.
You should know about this in advance and make plans to attend what could wind up becoming a signature event in our great city's future. It's all happening at The Westin Savannah Harbor on Hutchinson Island. I've written about the happenings at The Westin a few times this year. What they are doing is fantastic and is very deserving of the attention. Now, their holiday program could be the best of them all, and that's saying something, wouldn't you would agree?
I was invited this week, as I have been for the last four or five years, to be a judge at The Westin's annual gingerbread house event. A dozen or so of us gather in a ballroom full of gingerbread houses, munchies, a glass of wine and a clipboard and start tallying up the best of the best.
As in years past, the talent is outstanding in a number of different categories. Yes, we do know the winners, but you don't. You'll find out soon enough, or better yet, you can go take a look for yourself. It's one of my family's favorite things to do during the holidays. You take a ride over there, have some hot chocolate, stroll the lobby and enjoy the sights for an hour or so. That's enough of a good time right there, but this year, the ante is being upped. This year, they are adding a full-blown carnival to The Westin's annual Festival of Lights. Yes, a holiday carnival.
In between The Westin's property and the International Trade & Convention center, we are told there will be a full-blown play area for families to enjoy. There will be rides, attractions and holiday cheer set up in the plaza between the two buildings. It will a winter wonderland that we've not seen in Savannah. At least I haven't.
The idea is to have guests park their cars at the trade center, enjoy the festival and take a stroll through the hotel's lobby to see all of the hard work that goes into the gingerbread houses. This year features a model of the Mercer House with pasta being used as iron railings. I'm not kidding — the visuals are amazing and very much worth the trip.
Also this year will be an opportunity to ride a trolley through the hotel's Festival of Lights. In years past, guests have been able to drive their cars through the winding course of lights on Hutchinson Island. That is still the case. Families and their cars are still welcome, but Old Town Trolleys will also be offering rides for visitors to the hotel grounds.
Either way, there is a fee. Neither one of the options are free of charge, but they are offering guests a way to enjoy the carnival, the hotel and the lights without having to return to their cars.
Those are just some of the events going on during the holidays on The Westin's property. They have a full schedule of events, essentially from Thanksgiving through Christmas and New Year's Eve, for anyone to enjoy. The carnival, the boat parade on Nov. 29 and the Equinox concert on Dec. 17 are some of the highlights. There's also the very popular Reindeer Run on Dec. 20.
There are other events going on during the holidays of course, but a lot of what is being done at The Westin this year is new. It sounds like a ton of fun, and is all very much worth making plans to be there. Any further information can be found at www.westinsavannah.com.
Just don't say you didn't have plenty of warning. Next year, I'll give you that heads up around Labor Day!
See you on TV,
Huge round of applause to Michael Owens, Jan Gourley and all parties involved in the 2014 Savannah Food and Wine Festival. An unbelievable week for our city. There are some bugs to work out. I have every confidence they will be. I was told ticket sales were up 198 percent from year one. Good problem to have. Let's do it again next year!
Early returns are good from Lili's Restaurant and Bar on Wilmington Island. I personally have not been there yet, but a few people whose opinions I trust have and they enjoyed it. We'll keep you posted.
Of course, you can find out if I've been there right away by following me on Twitter (I many times Tweet before I eat). Or on Facebook.
We are having some fun with seafood this Sunday on Eat It and Like It. 7:30 a.m. Nov. 23 on WSAV-TV.
Even though most people roast a turkey every year, it still intimidates them, mainly because they only do it once a year. If that describes you, (or if you've never done it), relax: a turkey roasts just like a chicken, but it just takes longer. Allow plenty of time and remember that a lot of people just like you have been doing this well for a very long time.
• First, get over the notion that it has to be magazine cover perfect. Who cares if the skin tears a little or if the browning is not perfectly even? You do want it to look appetizing, but what really matters is how it tastes.
• Choose a smaller turkey: those monster birds with breasts so big that they could barely stand are far too unwieldy for the average cook, never have as much flavor as a smaller one, and are a lot harder to cook evenly. If your crowd is large, consider cooking two small birds, or roast a breast alongside the whole bird.
• Attacking the frozen bird: thaw it in the refrigerator, allowing a day for every 4 pounds. Leave it wrapped and it set at the bottom of the fridge in a rimmed pan to control dripping. Make sure it is completely thawed before cooking.
• If your turkey and still isn't thawed by Thanksgiving morning, unwrap it, remove the neck and giblet packet and COMPLETELY submerge it in COLD salted water (1 tablespoon kosher salt per quart). Salt speeds up thawing, keeps it juicy, and helps prevent bacterial growth. Never try to speed up thawing with warm water: salmonella will be tap-dancing on your bird. Cook it right away.
• Brining a turkey will indeed make it more tender and juicy, but it can be an unwieldy undertaking. It's easiest done in a plastic brining bag, available at many supermarkets and kitchenware stores. Follow the directions that come with the bag and don't try to adapt a cookbook brining formula to the bag.
• A couple of years ago "dry brining" became fashionable. Why we allow such ridiculous oxymorons into print is beyond me: brining by definition is a wet process. It's a foreshortened "corning," or dry-salt curing. Salt and spices are rubbed into and sometimes under the skin and the bird is refrigerated at least overnight. Follow the directions of the "dry-brine" kit packaging.
• Sometimes I loosen the breast skin, smear a little butter underneath, and then decoratively arrange fresh sage leaves across the breast.
• To stuff or not to stuff: the choice is yours. Stuffing adds flavor, and is especially moist and delicious since it bastes in the roasting juices, but it also slows down the roasting and can make the meat dry. I prefer dressing and fill the bird's cavity with moisture-rich vegetables and herbs, which is the best of both worlds.
• If you stuff, heat the stuffing in a large skillet before putting it in the bird and cook the turkey the moment it's stuffed. Never stuff and refrigerate it: that creates the perfect bacterial incubator and insures that the stuffing won't cook evenly.
• Loosely spoon stuffing into the turkey to give it room to swell. Let it remain in the bird for 15 minutes after cooking, but then remove it ALL to a serving bowl.
• Roast at a high temperature, beginning at 450-500 Degrees F. for 20 minutes to sear the outside, then reduce the temperature in stages (see Damon Lee's Favorite Roast Turkey, following). This makes a mess of the oven, but it's worth it.
• Roast the bird mostly breast down. This makes it automatically "self-basting". Start it breast up, rub well with fat after it is seared, and turn it breast down until it is nearly done (150 degrees on a meat thermometer), then turn it breast up to let the skin crisp and brown during the last bit of cooking.
• Have trouble flipping the bird? Thickly rub the breast with butter (Rick Rodgers suggests butter-soaked cheesecloth) and, after searing, cover ONLY the breast with buttered heavy-duty foil. Remove the foil for the last 20 minutes of roasting.
• Testing for doneness: Use a reliable "instant read" thermometer, available at any kitchenware store. Insert it into the thickest part of the inner thigh without touching bones. It's safely done at 160 degrees, overdone at 170. If the bird is stuffed, the center of the stuffing should read 165 degrees. To test without a thermometer, pierce the thigh: the juices should run clear. If they're red, it's not done. If there are no juices, you're doomed: it's overcooked. Make lots of gravy.
• Cover leftovers well and refrigerate promptly, but let them cool first: don't tightly cover and refrigerate hot food. That's inviting spoilage.
• Use common sense: after handling raw poultry immediately wash your hands and scrub cutting boards, knives, and other tools with detergent or disinfectant before they touch anything that won't be — or already is — cooked.
Serves 8 to 12 (with plenty of leftovers)
1 small young fresh turkey, weighing about 12 (and no more than 14) pounds
Salt and whole black pepper in a peppermill
4 large sprigs fresh sage, or 1 tablespoon or so crumbled dried sage
1 large onion, peeled and cut lengthwise into wedges
2 large or 3 medium leafy ribs celery, cut into 1-inch lengths (leave leafy tops whole)
1. Remove neck and giblets from cavity of turkey and use (except for liver) in broth pot (this can be done a day ahead. Cover and refrigerate turkey until ready to cook, but let sit at room temperature 30 minutes before cooking). Position rack in lower third of oven and preheat to 500 degrees F. Wash turkey inside and out with cold water and wipe dry.
2. Rub cavity well with salt and pepper. If using dried sage, rub into cavity; simply put fresh sage in cavity with onion and celery. Close with trussing needle and twine or small metal skewers. You may tie legs together or not (suit yourself). Rub bird with butter. Put turkey breast up in close-fitting heavy-bottomed roasting pan fitted with buttered rack. (If you don't have rack, rub pan bottom thickly with butter and put turkey directly on pan.)
3. Roast in lower third of oven 20 minutes to sear skin. Rub with more butter and turn breast down. (Use oven mitts and tongs if needed – it may not yet be too hot to handle.) Pour in enough broth or water to cover pan by 1/4-inch.
4. Reduce heat to 400 degrees and roast, basting occasionally if liked (it isn't necessary) about 1-1/2-to-2 hours longer, turning breast up for last 15 minutes, baste well, and roast until skin is brown and turkey is done. If skin is browning too fast, reduce heat to 375 degrees. To test for doneness, see notes above. Add more broth to pan as needed to keep roasting juices from drying out.
5. Remove turkey to a warm platter, loosely cover with foil, and let rest no less than 15 and up to 30 minutes before carving.
Thanksgiving Day: the turkey is roasting, the dressing is under control. The pies (if you have any sense) have been made at least a day ahead or delegated to an obliging baking-savvy relative or friend.
Congratulations: you're halfway there. But only halfway.
Sometimes, we spend so much time worrying over that giant bird that we forget to spread our attention out over the rest of the meal. And let's face it: if the gravy is silken and perfectly seasoned, the mashed potatoes are buttery but fluffy and light, and the vegetable sides are done to a turn, the bird can be a little overdone and dry and the meal will still be counted a success.
But if the bird is perfect and those things are ordinary or worse, barely edible, well . . .
Fortunately, with the right tools and a few do-ahead strategies, rounding out Thanksgiving's table with perfectly executed sides is easily accomplished.
I've chosen four classics that are as essential to the meal as turkey and dressing and share the essential tool that will make perfection a snap to accomplish.
The sides: gravy (of course), mashed potatoes, and two non-starch vegetables that mate well with poultry.
The tools: a flat whisk, degreasing pitcher/fat separator, potato ricer, and sharp knife
The Gravy
It isn't my job to tell you what kind of gravy to serve with your turkey. Whether or not you add wine to it, and whether you include the giblets and add chopped boiled eggs is up to you. My job is to show you how to make gravy that's silky-smooth and delicious.
Essential tools: a degreasing pitcher (fat separator) and flat whisk.
What they accomplish: Turkeys produce a lot of fat and a degreasing pitcher quickly and effortlessly separates that fat from the flavorful drippings. A flat whisk is ideal for a roux. It keeps it from splattering and makes it easier to keep the roux stirred up from the bottom of the pan until the heat suspends it in the liquid and allows it to do its job.
The Mashed Potatoes
Select large, mature potatoes. As for the variety, each contributes something all its own, so choose what you like.
• Russets make the fluffiest mashed potatoes
• Yellow-fleshed varieties such as Yukon Gold have a distinctive flavor that pundits like to call "buttery," but the only thing I find about them that meets that description is their color.
• Red-skinned varieties (unless they're flesh is also tinged in pink) make the whitest potatoes and will have a denser texture than russets or golds.
Perfect Mashed Potatoes
If you've got extra last-minute oven space and want to make the potatoes completely ahead, pile them into a buttered casserole, level the top, and let it cool completely. About half an hour before serving, uncover and gently rake the top with a fork, sprinkle with a liberal grinding of pepper, and bake at 375 degrees until the top is golden brown, about half an hour.
The essential tool: a potato ricer.
What it accomplishes: it breaks down the potatoes without rupturing starch granules, ensuring they will be lump-free and light without being pasty.
The Green Side
For many of us, Thanksgiving is an excuse for a full-throttle carbohydrate blowout: stuffing, rolls, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, pie, and cake. There will be one obligatory token green side dish that nobody wants but everyone feels obligated to taste, often that infamous green-bean-mushroom-soup-onion-ring-topped casserole. It's easy, brainless, and, as everyone knows, isn't about the beans: they're just a carrier for the fried onion rings.
Imagine having a green side that isn't just a table ornament. Brussels sprouts are perfect with Turkey, and with care can be mostly made ahead and finished at the last minute.
Brussels Sprouts with Bacon-Toasted Pecans
The great thing about this recipe is that its components can be made ahead, so even though it has to be finished at the last minute, that finish is very quick.
Brussels sprouts look lovely when they're left whole, but whole sprouts take longer to cook and roll around on one's plate. Halving them goes quickly when you have a large, sharp cook's knife, literally cuts their cooking time in half, and makes them stable on your plate.
The essential tools: a sharp cook's knife and a steamer pot or insert.
What they accomplish: I shouldn't have to tell you a sharp knife is the cook's best friend. It makes short work of vegetable prep. A steamer makes it possible to blanch without an unwieldy and dangerous vat of boiling water.
Creamed Onions
Once upon a time, creamed whole onions were to turkey what cranberry sauce is to it now, and for many families, they're still is an essential element of the holiday's table. If they're not an essential on your table, just try them once, and they will be.
Essential Tools: you'll need that flat whisk and a sharp knife (this time paring-size).
What they accomplish: the flat whisk does the same mess-free job here as it does in the gravy, and a sharp paring knife will help you make short work of trimming the onions.
The Gravy
Makes about 4 cups
The pan juices from Roast Turkey, left in the roasting pan
1 cup Madeira (optional)
2 cups Turkey Broth (3 cups if not using wine)
3 tablespoons instant blending flour (such as Wondra)
Cooked giblets from the turkey, chopped (optional)
1-2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and chopped (optional)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Salt and whole black pepper in a mill
1. Pour off but reserve pan juices into degreasing pitcher. Let juices settle. Put roasting pan over direct, medium high heat.
2. Add Madeira or 1 cup broth and bring to boil, stirring and scraping to loosen cooking residue. Let boil 1 minute and pour off into measuring cup or if there's room into degreasing pitcher.
3. Spoon 3 tablespoons fat from top of turkey drippings into roasting pan. Whisk in instant blending flour with flat whisk. Cook, whisking constantly, until bubbly and beginning to toast. Slowly whisk in deglazing liquid, then pour in pan drippings, stopping when fat reaches pitcher's spout. Whisk until beginning to thicken, then whisk in broth.
4. Bring to simmer, whisking constantly, and let simmer until thickened, whisking, then let simmer, whisking occasionally, until thick enough to suit, about 3-4 minutes. Stir in optional giblets and egg and simmer until hot through. Turn off heat and swirl or whisk in butter until incorporated. Taste and adjust seasonings and serve.
The Mashed Potatoes
Serves 8
4 pounds of mature russet, red-skinned, or gold potatoes of a uniform size
4-8 tablespoons unsalted butter (how much is up to you), softened or melted
About 1/2-3/4 cup hot whole milk
1. Wash potatoes under cold, running water, scrubbing without breaking skin, and put in a large pot. Add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Remove potatoes, cover pot, and bring water almost to boil over medium heat.
2. Return potatoes to pot and let come back to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until cooked through, about 30 minutes. Knife should easily pierce potatoes but skin should not rupture. Drain, cover again, and let cool enough to handle. Peel, cut in chunks, and let sit a few minutes.
3. Put potato chunks through potato ricer a few at a time back into pan and put over medium low heat. When warm, add butter and mix in with potato masher until incorporated. Gradually mix in hot milk until fluffy and creamy to your taste. Add salt to taste and mix. Cover and let heat a moment. Turn into warm serving bowl and serve immediately.
Brussels Sprouts with Bacon-Toasted Pecans
Serves 8
2-1/2 pounds small Brussels sprouts
6 slices extra-thick-cut applewood bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch wide strips
1/2 cup pecans
Whole black pepper in a mill
1. Fill sink with cold water. Trim sprouts at base, remove loose leaves, rinse, and drop into water. Let soak 30 minutes. Drain and split lengthwise with very sharp knife.
2. Put at least 1 inch water in large pot (or bottom of double-boiler–type steamer), fit with vegetable steamer basket, cover, and bring the water to a rolling boil over high heat. Drain sprouts and put in steamer basket. Cover and steam 2 minutes. Sprinkle well with salt, cover, and reduce heat to medium and steam until crisp-tender and still bright green, about 4 minutes.
3. Meanwhile prepare large basin of ice water. When sprouts are ready, remove from steamer and drop into ice water bath to arrest cooking. Drain. Can be made 4-6 hours ahead: cover well.
4. Put bacon in skillet and cook, stirring often, until browned and crisp, then remove and drain on absorbent paper. Spoon off all but 4 tablespoons fat, add pecans and saute, tossing often, until lightly toasted golden, about 3 minutes. Remove pecans with slotted spoon. Can be made 3-4 hours ahead. Turn off heat and set pan aside.
5. When ready to finish, return pan to medium high heat. Add sprouts and saute, tossing, until hot through and beginning to color at edges. Add pecans and bacon. Toss until warmed through. Season well with pepper, taste, and adjust seasonings. Transfer to warm serving dish and serve.
Creamed Onions
Serves 8
2 pounds small white "boiling" onions (not pearl onions), about 1-inch round
3 cups chicken broth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1-1/2 cups heavy cream
Salt, whole white pepper in a mill, and whole nutmeg in a grater
1 tablespoon chopped flat leaf parsley
1. Prepare basin of ice water and bring 4 quarts water to boil in 6 quart pot. Drop in onions and cook 2 minutes. Drain and plunge into cold water. With paring knife, cut roots and top stem and slip onions out of skins. Make deep x cut in root end of each onion.
2. Bring broth to boil in 3 quart deep saute pan over medium-high heat, and slip in onions. There should be just enough liquid to cover. If it doesn't, add water, but don't add more broth. Let return to boil, reduce heat to bare simmer, loosely cover and simmer until onions almost tender, but still firm, about 15 minutes. Raise heat to medium high, uncover, and quickly reduce cooking liquid by slightly more than half. Drain, reserving liquid. Transfer onions to bowl.
3. Return pan to medium head, add butter, and let melt. When butter is hot, whisk in flour and whisk until bubbly and smooth. Slowly whisk in broth and simmer until thickened, about 3 or 4 minutes. Whisk in cream and let it come back to a boil, whisking often.
4. Return onions to sauce, add salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste and bring to simmer. Or, if making ahead, turn off heat, pour into bowl, cool completely, cover, and refrigerate.
5. When ready to serve, return onions to pan and gently reheat over medium heat, stirring often, about 4 minutes more. Pour into a warm bowl, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.
One thing my parents are going to miss living in the "big city" of Savannah is garden fresh vegetables.
My parents weren't farmers, but since they owned a funeral home in a small town, they knew a lot of farmers and had helped many of them through great times of sorrow. It wasn't unusual for a farmer to show up at their house or the funeral home with a bag full of what was in season.
One day a couple of weeks ago, Daddy said, "We've been getting really good sweet potatoes from Kroger. They're not stringy at all." A statement only a true connoisseur of garden fresh sweet potatoes would understand.
He is referring to the long fibrous strings that are so commonplace now that we don't even think about them. These "strings" come from growing a potato in soil that is too fertile. The potato is a root and roots store nutrients. Grown in soil that is too fertile, sweet potato vines will grow fast and big and the result is long stringy roots (or potatoes).
Certain varieties are less fibrous than others, but I haven't seen a store disclose what variety of sweet potato they stock, and I would bet even a store attendant wouldn't be able to tell you the variety.
So now that you know all sweet potatoes aren't created equal, you'll probably notice when you get a particularly stringy one. To avoid stingy potatoes, choose the short, plump ones instead of the long skinny ones, and don't buy the biggest ones
- choose smaller plump sweet potatoes instead.
I haven't always been a fan of sweet potatoes. In fact I didn't start eating them until a few years ago, when I became more conscious about the health benefits my foods provide. Sweet potatoes are a type of super food. The orange flesh is high in fiber, beta carotene and other antioxidants that fight off all those free radicals floating around us all day.
Interesting enough, sweet potatoes contain a protein hormone that helps regulate insulin levels. That protein hormone and the high fiber content of a sweet potato make them a much better option than a white potato for people who are trying to regulate their insulin levels.
Sweet potatoes have some anti-inflammatory nutrients also, which anyone over 50 can certainly appreciate! My favorite discovery
while researching the sweet potato was that it is important to have some fat with your sweet potatoes!
I knew fat had to be good for something, and in this case, it helps with the absorption of beta carotene into the blood stream. Of course the recommended fat is olive oil, but I'm going to use the statement to justify my slathering a hot baked sweet potato with a whole lot of butter.
Everyone has an opinion about the best way to cook a sweet potato. I usually microwave them
- just because I'm in a hurry - but baking them caramelizes the sugars and makes them so much sweeter. If you're eating sweet potatoes for your health, boiling and steaming help retain the nutrients better than other cooking methods.
I don't think I could ever tire of a baked sweet potato with a lot of butter. But just in case your family might, here are some creative ways to change it up a bit from time to time.
Teri Bell is co-owner of Miss Sophie's Marketplace at the Mighty Eighth in Pooler. Go to sophiesmarketplace.com.
4 pounds Sweet Potatoes, washed
1 cup fresh cranberries (or Craisins for a sweeter taste)
¾ cup brown sugar
¼ cup butter
1/3 cup bourbon
Bake or microwave whole, unpeeled sweet potatoes until fork tender. Set aside until cool enough to handle.
Meanwhile, add butter, sugar and bourbon to a sauce pan. Heat, until butter and sugar are melted. Add cranberries and cook 2-3 minutes longer.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Cut cooled sweet potatoes crosswise into inch thick slices and arrange in a shallow 3 quart glass baking dish. Pour brown sugar mixture and cranberries over potatoes. Bake uncovered 20 minutes or until hot. Serve immediately spooning sauce over potatoes.
These make a great presentation for a special meal
3 medium sweet potatoes sliced thin (1/8 inch)
¼ cup brown sugar
1 tablespoon butter
4 tablespoons pecans, finely chopped
½ cup whole milk
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 12 cup muffin tin well. In a small saucepan, melt butter and brown sugar. Divide butter mixture evenly between muffin tins. Sprinkle pecans on top of butter mixture. Stack thin slices of sweet potatoes to the top of tin. Stir milk & cinnamon together. Evenly divide milk mixture between muffin tins. Bake until potatoes 25-30 minutes or until potatoes are fork tender.
Studies suggest the best way to get the most nutrients out of a sweet potato is to boil or steam them. Imagine, a mashed potato that is good for you!
4 medium sized sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup half & half
½ cup butter
½ cup maple syrup
In a large Dutch oven, cover potatoes with water, add salt and bring to a boil. Boil until potatoes are fork tender 20-25 minutes. Drain and return to pot, add butter and whip with a hand mixer. Add half and half a little at a time to get the consistency you desire. Stir in maple syrup. Serve immediately.
When I sat down to write this particular piece of work, I had to give it some thought.
There was no interview to be done. There was no agenda to push. There was no real angle on how I was going to approach our time together here.
I had a bit of a discussion with the editors at the Savannah Morning News and they laid out their road map to me regarding their plan for coverage for the second Savannah Food and Wine Festival. You combine that with the amazing work our staff at Eat It and Like It has done previewing this festival and the event has a blanket on it.
There is no shortage of chef bios, no shortage of event previews, no shortage of anything, really. If you are interested in any aspect of this city's celebration of food, anything you need is just a web browser away.
And I am just giddy as a school boy after that first kiss.
We all know about festival season in Savannah. The movie buffs just had their week, the musicians had theirs just before that. The runners among us will be sporting their great legs this weekend. Once they are done, it then becomes a week for food lovers. And there are plenty among us.
The average person who doesn't obsessively watch all the different reality cooking shows out there or spend time traveling to a lot of different locations around the South tasting new and exciting meals may not realize how big of a deal this is for Savannah, but a lot of us do.
Much in the same way "The Hurt Locker" was screened here at the Savannah Film Festival as a relatively unknown before going on to an Oscar for Best Picture, there are a good many chefs coming to your city to share their talents with you. Chefs who have already won the highest honor in American cuisine or still others that might eventually do so. It's a true sampling of the best in Southern cuisine on display here in lil' ol' Savannah.
The names, you probably haven't heard of. Maybe Kevin Gillespie. He was a contestant on "Top Chef." He will be here participating in the Beard Foundation dinner. Along with him will be Savannah native Steve Satterfield, a graduate of Johnson High School. Steve has been nominated for a Beard Award and nominated for Food and Wine Magazine's "People's Best New Chef."
These men (and women) have skills, tremendous skills, in the kitchen and they are coming to your city to cook for you. It's tough to pass up on that.
I could go on and on about all the events and chefs and menus that I am excited about, but I will leave it to you to look up the events you may find interesting.
Sure, you can spend $195 on a top-of-the-line wine dinner next week, but you can also spend about $50 and taste foods all day, sample a ton of wine and enjoy our beautiful weather in the fall.
There really is something for everyone and if you are on the fence about attending anything in Savannah next week, you should at the very least attend Taste of Savannah. It is well worth every penny and a fantastic time to boot.
I've watched this festival grow from an idea in a cavernous, near-empty trade center a few years ago to a week-long event I would put up against anything that happens in this city at any point during the year. With a respectful nod to all of the fun that can be had in this great city year-round, this food festival could wind up being the biggest. Yes, I said it. The biggest.
It might take a few years, but the potential is there. Go ahead, accuse me of bias. That's fine. But there is one thing I can say about every single person on the planet. They all eat.
OK, enough of that foodie-based bravado. This is absolutely our time. Our time to showcase local talent, of which there is plenty, and our time to show some of the biggest names in Southern cuisine that we can and will turn out to support the best in the industry.
Why wouldn't we? You're almost guaranteed to eat it and like it.
See you on TV,
We've put together a fantastic guide to the 2014 Savannah Food and Wine Festival. In it you'll find my Q&A with Kevin Gillespie, some insight into the wine dinners and even the best way to enjoy the week on a tight budget. It's all there right now at www.eatitandlikeit.com.
A ton of new restaurants coming online in the area. We are all eagerly awaiting the opening of The Grey on MLK downtown, but in the meantime, a couple of others will likely pop up before that. Lili's Restaurant and Bar is set to open on Wilmington Island very soon, 326 Johnny Mercer Blvd. (The old Michael's Spot).
Liberty Street Grill is the new concept going into the old Brasserie 529 on Liberty Street near Houston. They have a menu (I've seen it, thumbs up) and are putting some finishing touches on the space. I'm told "loosely November." I'll keep you posted on that one.
New hours for the Farm Stand at Bethesda Academy: 3-5:30 p.m. Tuesday and 8:30 a.m.-noon Saturday. Go to www.bethesdaacademy.org for details.
Keep up with all the openings and happenings with my newsletter. Twice a month, no spam or triple your money back. Email us at firstname.lastname@example.com.
Every November, when most of us are getting back to our kitchens with renewed enthusiasm, the food media seems to go into a frenzy, bombarding us with a bunch of "new" ideas to coax us back when we're already there anyway.
Though most of those ideas seem to be for that one big meal that we'll all be cooking in a few weeks, they usually run the gamut of autumn and winter fare.
Well, it's our job to keep you interested, so the drive to find something beguilingly new isn't surprising. But y'all know me: While everyone else is trolling for the next clever new thing, I always seem to be looking backwards digging through old cookbooks for clever old things.
I mean, do you really need to cook your turkey a different way every single time when you're only going to do it once a year anyway?
Some of that may be due to what my mother calls my contrariness, but the biggest part of it is my firm belief that we don't always need something new; we just need to rediscover the wisdom and genius in what we already have.
That's especially true when it comes to preparing one of the season's best things: the new harvest of oysters.
Two of my own favorite ways of enjoying this shellfish don't even need a recipe.
The first doesn't even involve cooking: just open cold, live oysters with an oyster knife, loosen but leave them in their deep bottom shells, season them if they need it with lemon, hot sauce, horseradish or cocktail sauce, and slurp them down.
The second is to stew them in a blend of their strained liquor and 3-4 times as much milk or blend of milk and cream. Heat that through and season it to your own taste with salt, freshly milled pepper and butter. You can even thicken it a little with a handful of crushed saltines if you like. When the liquid is simmering nicely, just add shucked oysters and let them cook until they plump up and their gills curl.
If you can't manage those without more instruction than that, then bless your heart.
But if you've done them already and are looking for something a bit more involved, don't spin your wheels trying to reinvent a way to cook something as timeless as an oyster: just rediscover the perfection in these lovely old favorites.
A Note on Oysters and the R months: the traditional season, cold weather (or the months with an R in them), is not as strenuously observed these days, since refrigeration and farming have made it possible to safely harvest, store and ship them in warmer weather. But most oyster lovers know that the rule had less to do with safety than the fact that the texture and flavor of oysters isn't good while they're spawning, which tends to be when the weather – and therefore the water – is warm. They really are at their best flavor and texture right now, in those R months.
Serves 4–6 as a first course
24 live oysters in shell
1/4 cup finely minced thick-cut bacon (about 2 slices, see notes)
1/4 cup finely minced green scallion tops (about 2)
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1/2 cup cracker crumbs
Whole black pepper in a mill
1 lemon, cut into 8 wedges
1. Position rack 4–6 inches from heat source and preheat broiler 15 minutes. Shuck oysters and cut loose from shell, leaving them in deep halves. Discard shallow half. Spread 1/2-inch-thick layer rock salt on rimmed baking sheet or line with crumpled foil. Press oyster shells into salt or foil until level and stable.
2. Mix together bacon, onion, lemon zest, and crumbs. Season well with pepper and toss to blend. Sprinkle bacon-crumb mixture evenly but lightly over oysters: don't put on too thick; it's meant to enhance flavor, not bury it.
3. Broil until bacon-crumb topping is golden-brown and the gills are lightly curled, about 4 minutes. Serve at once with lemon wedges.
Note: To mince bacon without losing your religion, put it in freezer until very firm, about half an hour, and use sharp ceramic knife. Bacon won't stick to ceramic blade as much as steel blade.
A nice variation on the previous recipe for when you have shucked oysters, this golden oldie is from The Junior League of Savannah's 1980 classic, "Savannah Style," which, 34 years later, is still in print, proving that real style never goes out of fashion.
Serves 4 (or 6 as an appetizer)
6 ounces (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons chopped green onion
3 tablespoons minced parsley
1/2 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 pound regular-cut bacon
4 slices stale but still soft white bread, crumbled fine
1 pint shucked oysters, drained
1. Combine butter, onion, parsley in skillet over medium low heat. Cook until onions are softened; add Tabasco and Worcestershire and remove from heat. In separate pan, cook bacon over medium heat until browned and crisp. Remove from pan, drain on paper towels, and crumble. Add bread crumbs to bacon drippings and cook, stirring often, until toasted. Remove from heat.
2. Position rack in upper third of oven and preheat to 450 degrees F. Butter a 8-inch baking dish and cover bottom with oysters. Sprinkle half of butter and onion mixture, crumbled bacon, and crumbs evenly over oysters. Add remaining oysters and top with remaining butter and onion, bacon, and crumbs. Bake until golden and bubbly, about 15-20 minutes.
These are lovely grilled, but are just as lovely roasted in the oven if you can't grill. From my book "Essentials of Southern Cooking" (Lyons Press/2013).
Serves 4
4 large (about 7 ounces each) or 8 small (4–5 ounces each) dressed quail
Salt and whole black pepper in a pepper mill
8–16 freshly shucked oysters
8–16 sprigs thyme
8 strips lean, thick-sliced bacon
4 cups cooked grits or rice, optional
1. Wipe quail dry with paper towels. Season inside and out with salt and pepper, then stuff each with two or three oysters — as many as will fit. Tuck sprigs of thyme under wings and thighs and tie legs together with kitchen twine. Wrap slice of bacon around each (you may need more than one for larger birds) and secure with toothpicks or tie with twine.
2. Prepare grill with coals and light, or position a rack in upper third of oven and preheat to 500 degrees F. If roasting, skip to step 4.
3. If grilling, when coals are glowing red and ashed over, position rack about 6 inches above heat. Put quail on rack on sides and grill until bacon is browned and crisp, about 8 minutes. Turn onto opposite side and grill until bacon is browned, about 8 minutes more. Turn breast-side down and grill until cooked through, about 8 minutes longer, turning them every few minutes to evenly distribute heat. If bacon begins to get too brown, move rack farther from heat. Remove to a warm platter and serve hot with grits or rice.
4. If roasting, put breast-side down in a lightly greased, close-fitting roasting pan or casserole and roast 10 minutes, until bacon begins to brown. Reduce heat to 400 degrees and roast until quail and oysters are cooked through, about 20 minutes longer, turning breast-side up about 5 minutes before taking from oven. Remove quail to a warm platter. Allow pan juices to settle, then tip pan, spoon off excess fat, and pour juices over quail. Serve hot with grits or rice.
Creamed oysters were once a standard for any autumn or winter party in Savannah, served in a silver chafing dish with baskets of crisp, buttery toast cups or pastry shells for guests to help themselves. They're also a great first course served in puff pastry shells. From my "Savannah Cookbook" (Gibbs-Smith/2008).
Serves 10 to 12 as hors d'oeuvres, about 8 as a first course
1 pint shucked oysters
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup finely minced shallots
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup heavy cream (minimum 36% milk fat)
1 tablespoon bourbon
2 tablespoons dry sherry
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
Salt and whole black pepper in a peppermill
Toast Cups (recipe follows) or bite-size pastry cups, or 8 4-inch puff pastry shells
2-3 Tablespoons finely minced parsley, if serving as first course
1. Drain oysters in sieve set over bowl. Heat butter in saute pan over medium heat. When hot and foaming, add shallots and saute, tossing, until golden but not browned. Add flour and stir until smooth.
2. Slowly stir in oyster liquor and bring to simmer, stirring constantly. Cook until thickened, and stir in cream. Bring to simmer, stirring constantly, and cook until again thickened, about 4 minutes.
3. Add oysters, bourbon, sherry, and Worcestershire and cook just long enough for gills to curl. Taste and season well with salt and pepper. Pour into chafing dish and serve with toast cups or pastry shells. Or divide 8 puff pastry shells among 8 small plates, fill each with oysters, and garnish with parsley. Serve immediately.
Makes 3 dozen
36 slices extra-thin white sandwich bread
About 6 tablespoons salted butter, melted, optional
1. Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 325 degrees F. Trim crusts from bread and brush each lightly on both sides with melted butter (you may omit butter for lighter cups). Gently pinch centers of each side inward and put bread into wells of mini muffin pan, then press carefully into sides and bottom, allowing four corners to point up and out like tulip petals.
2. Bake until golden brown and crisp, about 20 minutes. Let cool and air dry until crisp, then store in airtight tin until needed. They will keep for up to 1 week if buttered, 1 month if plain.
Another Savannah golden-oldie, Panned Oysters was always a simple supper dish, but actually makes a lovely first course for a more formal meal. It cannot be made ahead. From my "Savannah Cookbook" (Gibbs-Smith/2008).
Serves 4
1 pint shucked oysters
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Hot sauce
Worcestershire sauce
Whole black pepper in a peppermill
4 pieces firm, home-style bread, toasted
1 lemon, cut in wedges
8 healthy sprigs watercress
1. Pour oysters into strainer set over bowl. Let drain 15-30 minutes. Cover and save strained liquor for fish stock.
2. Melt butter in shallow, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add oysters and cook, stirring constantly, until gills begin to curl, about 2 minutes. Season generously with hot sauce, Worcestershire, and pepper. Remove pan from heat, taste and adjust seasonings, adding salt if needed. Put toasted bread on warmed salad plates, spoon oysters and pan juices evenly over, and garnish with lemon wedges and watercress. Serve immediately.
When Tybee Island native Bonnie Gaster taught these oysters in a cooking class at Kitchenware Outfitters, she served them on a bed of her spicy, slow-simmered collard greens. They are pretty stellar all on their own.
Serves 6 as a first course, 4 as a main dish
36 extra-large select oysters, shucked
About 2 cups Panko (Japanese style bread crumbs)
About 2-1/2-to-3 teaspoons seafood boiling spice such as Savannah Spice Company
About 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
Vegetable or peanut oil, for frying
2 lemons cut into wedges
Cocktail sauce (optional)
1. About half an hour before serving, pick over oysters for bits of shell, pour into colander set over bowl, and drain 15 minutes. Mix Panko and seafood seasoning in wide, shallow bowl. Have egg and flour ready in separate bowls. Fit 2 wire cooling racks into 2 rimmed baking sheets.
2. Half fill deep fryer or heavy-bottomed Dutch oven with oil. One at a time, lightly roll oysters in flour, shake off excess, then dip into egg, allowing excess to flow back into bowl. Roll in the seasoned Panko. Lay on cooling racks and let rest 15 minutes to set breading.
3. Heat oil to 365° F. Fry oysters in batches until golden brown and floating, 2 minutes or less; don't overcook. Lift oysters from fat with wire frying skimmer and drain them on the second cooling rack. Allow 6 oysters per portion for appetizer, 9 as main dish. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and, if liked small cups of cocktail sauce for dipping.
I have never seen a ghost or anything I thought might be a ghost.
Has my mind played tricks on me at several points over the years? Especially at night? When no one is around? When you think you might have seen something but didn't?
To that mix, I can add that I have had plenty of friends, especially in Savannah, tell me countless stories that I have no reason to not believe. Showers turning on by themselves in local hotels, or items disappearing altogether. Spend enough time in Savannah and you'll hear it all.
As I have.
Again, I have no reason to not believe the people telling me these tales. They typically have no agenda, no motive or frankly, no reason to make up some of the tales I've been told. The latest came to me over the summer. Quite frankly, it's fascinating and curious at the same time.
I got a call from Wille Tuten back in July. He is the owner of Tondee's Tavern on Bay Street near Bull, in the old Tony Roma's location. We had never met before. I had popped into his place a couple of times for a beverage but had never eaten there. Mr. Tuten wanted to show me a piece of video that had been recorded inside his tavern. A piece of surveillance video that he found very interesting, but didn't have any explanation for. We set up a meeting.
When I got there, took me into his office and played a piece of video for me. The video was shot by a ceiling-mounted surveillance camera inside of his establishment. A fixed camera that shot in the same direction at all times. It had picked up a fire that was growing outside on the sidewalk along Bay Street. Apparently, someone had put a cigarette into a flower box outside Tondee's Tavern as they walked by. The culprit moved along, but the fire crackled and popped right outside a window.
That ceiling-mounted camera captured it all. Oh, by the way, it was after 3 a.m. on June 22.
Meanwhile, two employees slept downstairs between a late Saturday night shift and an early Sunday shift. It wasn't uncommon for Tondee's employees to sleep downstairs if they had a tight turnaround, so this particular Sunday morning was no different.
Lisa Scroggin was one of the two young ladies sound asleep.
"Something touched me," she says. "It woke me up."
Once she was awake, she heard her co-worker screaming her name. From upstairs. The fire had been discovered and it was growing. They raced upstairs and attempted to put it out with buckets of water. All of this captured by that camera on the ceilling.
We've all seen surveillance video of fires before. Nothing new here. What was different were some of things the camera very clearly picked up when you watched it slowly or in a freeze frame. Nearly two dozen times in a two-hour period, white orbs or flashes fly through the screen. Sometimes left to right. Other times, right to left or top to bottom. No rhyme or reason. Crystal clear in most cases, a little harder to see in others, but they were there.
Mr. Tuten had no explanation for these "shapes" captured on that video. He wanted to know if I had one. I did not. I don't do ghosts. I'm the food guy.
I did ask Mr. Tuten for a copy of this video and sent it to a friend of mine in Florida who has two decades of experience with these types of things. He has operated regular ghost tours in Orlando, St. Augustine and New Orleans and has done paranormal investigations in half a dozen other places around the country. If there was an explanation, he'd certainly offer one.
The first question he asked me about was the presence of air conditioning vents. He was concerned these could have been pieces of paper flying around the room in the face of a fire. He had other questions for me, all of which I took back to Tondee's Tavern to verify. No interfering air vents. Nothing that would explain what those shapes captured on video were.
Ultimately, the question for my friend was "Are those ghosts?"
"They could be but we can't say for sure," he said. "I can say that we can't discount anything paranormal as an explanation for what they are."
That's really all I needed to hear.
Employees at Tondee's have told me that they've had people come through and tell them all kinds of stories of things that happened in that building once upon a time. There are stories of slave holdings downstairs, still other stories of a child who lives in the lower level at Tondee's Tavern and stays behind the stairs. Several ghost tours in Savannah make regular stops at Tondee's already.
You combine that with a piece of video that, at the very least, makes you wonder and you've got some visual evidence and quite a story to tell.
You can see an edited, narrated version of that video at www.eatitandlikeit.com.
Are they ghosts? No clue. Am I prepared to say they are not? Not at all. But I am adding what happened at Tondee's Tavern to my list of stories I've been told over the years in Savannah that have no explanation.
Take a look at that video, and decide for yourself.
See you on TV.
Address: 7 E. Bay St.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday
Info: www.tondees.com
November is the month for runners in our lovely city.
I'm not a runner. I have vowed to take up running on many different occasions.
I even have started running. I put on the shoes, stretched and took off.
But, then I got all out of breath, my heart was pounding and I was just too tired to go any farther. That was the hardest 100 yards of my life!
And, of course, there is the problem of perspiring. A proper Southern lady just doesn't do that.
My sweet friend (and amazing photographer) Kay has posted some really great pictures on Facebook of runners. Her son is a member of the cross-country team at Savannah Arts Academy, (which is, by the way, having a fantastic year!) so she has been to her share of races this year.
She posts these beautiful pictures of sunbeams peeking through the trees as young men and women race by, their hair blowing in the wind and peaceful determination etched on their faces. It makes me just want to get out there and do that!
The truth is, knowing a couple of runners and maybe helping out at one or two charity runs is about as close as I will get to actually running. I do however admire Savannah runners, not just for their athletic ability and determination, but for their part in raising thousands of dollars for nonprofits and charities.
The first run of November is the Woof Woof Run taking place this Saturday, Nov. 1, with proceeds going to help fund pet cancer research and educate people about pet cancer.
Of course the next week, Nov. 8, is the running event of the year, the Rock 'n' Roll Savannah Marathon. In addition to raising funds for charities, this run brings in big tourist dollars for our beautiful city!
On Nov. 15, the Trail of Hope run raises funds for the pro-life adoption services of Covenant Care, a charity near and dear to my heart. I have personally witnessed the joy they bring to a couple's life through their adoption program – a worthy cause for running for any day of the week.
Then the next weekend, Nov. 22, another nonprofit that I am personally involved with, The National Museum of the Mighty Eighth Air Force, is having its fifth annual
Flying Fortress 5K. Proceeds from this run helps the many volunteers and staff members of the museum maintain the history of the Eighth Air Force, which was formed here in Savannah on Jan. 8, 1942.
Since Miss Sophie's is located inside the Mighty Eighth, I have the "inside" scoop on this nonprofit, and I can assure you the staff and the many volunteers are wholly dedicated to maintaining and sharing this great piece of history with past, present and future generations.
Whew, all this run talk is making me tired! If you want more information on any of these events, you can find links to them all on fleetfeetsavannah.com.
In honor of November running month, I thought I would share some energy recipes. Running or not, these tasty boosts of energy will keep you going!
Teri Bell is co-owner of Miss Sophie's Marketplace at the Mighty Eighth in Pooler. Go to sophiesmarketplace.com.
1/3 cup vegetable shortening, I use butter or 1/3 cup margarine
1 cup packed brown sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/4 cups whole wheat flour
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 pinch salt
1 (8 ounce) packages dried figs, stems removed
4 oz fresh or frozen Raspberries
2/3 cup water
3 tablespoons lemon juice or 3 tablespoons orange juice
3 tablespoons granulated sugar ( I use splenda)
Preheat oven to 375°F.
In a large bowl, beat together shortening, brown sugar, eggs and vanilla until creamy.
Add all purpose flour, whole wheat flour, baking soda, baking powder, orange peel and salt, beating until blended.
Refrigerate dough 1 to 2 hours.
Prepare fig filling and set aside, see below.
On a floured surface, roll dough into 14 inch square.
Cut dough into 4 equal strips, each 14 inches long and 3 1/2 inches wide.
Spoon 1/4 of fig filling in a 1 1/2 inch wide mound down center of each strip.
Using a long spatula, lift sides of each dough strip over filling, overlapping slightly on top.
Press edges together to seal.
Cut strips crosswise in half for ease of handling.
Place, seam side down, 3 inches apart on greased baking sheets.
Brush off any excess flour.
Cut each strip into 7 (1 inch) crosswise pieces, but do not separate.
Bake 13 to 15 minutes or until puffed and firm to the touch.
Cool 5 to 10 minutes on baking sheets; then cut apart and remove to racks to cool completely.
For Fig Filling
1. In a medium saucepan, combine figs, raspberries, water, lemon or orange juice and granulated sugar.
2. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally.
3. Reduce heat and simmer 5 to 10 minutes or until thickened, stirring occasionally; cool.
These can be made into bars, but shaped into balls they become a quick bite of energy.
1 cup rolled oats
1 cup coconut flakes
½ cup ground flax seeds
½ cup mini chocolate chips
½ cup raisins
½ cup peanut butter
1/3⅓ cup honey
1 tsp Vanilla
1. In a medium bowl, add oatmeal, coconut flakes, flax seed, mini chocolate chips and raisins.
2. In a separate small bowl, whisk peanut butter, honey and vanilla.
3. Pour oatmeal mixture into peanut butter mixture, combine until thoroughly incorporated.
4. Let chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
5. Roll into balls.
Store in an airtight container and keep refrigerated for up to 1 week.
1 cup pumpkin puree or canned pumpkin
1 cup rolled oats
10-12 dates (pits removed)
1/4 tablespoons dried cranberries
2 tablespoons chia seeds
2 tablespoons sunflower seeds
1 tsp cinnamon
1. In a food processor, combine the pumpkin, oats, seeds, sunflower seeds, cinnamon.
2. Add the dates the dates and pulse until well blended
3. Add in the cranberries and pulse until well blended.
4. Roll the mixture into balls and place on the lined baking sheet in the fridge.
Editor's note: With last-minute Halloween party planning no doubt in full swing for some, Teri has a few ideas to make the day as fun as it should be.
I get kind of sad when Halloween rolls around. I have such fond memories of trick-or-treating, memories of my grandchildren and other young boys and girls won't get to have. Today parents must worry about tainted candy, child abductions and people who have turned what was a night of dress up and eating candy into something dangerous. It just breaks my heart.
Halloween for me was just a night for Mama to make me pretty with makeup and lipstick, dress me in a dress too big and tell me how beautiful I looked. On Halloween, we got to stay up late and eat copious amounts of candy. Oh, the thrill of dumping out a big bag of candy on the floor and eating too much of it!
It's hard to believe that my parents dressed my sister and me up, gave us big bags and sent us out, on our own, with other neighborhood children to trick or treat. We didn't have an adult with us and we would walk for a couple of hours filling up our trick or treat bags until they were too heavy to carry and head home. I'm not sure, but I think if you did that today someone would probably report you for child neglect!
I don't know exactly when we became scared to send our children out alone. I wasn't worried about my children trick-or-treating. We lived two miles out of town so I had to drive them to their grandmother's neighborhood, but I didn't hover over them or feel like I needed to stand at the end of the driveway to pick them up. If evil was lurking, we never sensed it.
Our church, and many other churches, now have fall festivals on Halloween night. There are games, prizes and still copious amounts of candy, but it isn't the same as screaming "Trick or Treat" at a door. Of course if I had small children, I wouldn't risk them walking the streets and knocking on strangers' doors either. Times change, but not always for the best.
Of course Halloween isn't just for tots. I've been to and thrown some great Halloween parties! Decorations are plentiful and fairly cheap. And I think it might be more fun to dress up as an adult then it was as a child! There is too much reality in our world today. A good Halloween party with costumes is a great way to escape into the make believe world again without getting strange looks from your friends.
I won't be throwing a Halloween party this year – but if I was, here are some staples that you can bet you would find on the menu, and you can also bet I would still be dressed as a princess!
Teri Bell is co-owner of Miss Sophie's Marketplace at the Mighty Eighth in Pooler. Go to sophiesmarketplace.com.
• 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened
• 2 cups powdered sugar
• 1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin pie filling
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
• Garnishes: ground cinnamon, cinnamon sticks
Beat cream cheese and sugar at medium speed with an electric mixer until smooth. Add pie filling, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, and ginger, beating well. Cover and chill 8 hours. Serve with gingersnaps and apple or pear slices. Garnish, if desired.
Adapted from Stick a Fork in It blog – Warning this stuff is addictive!
6 cups Chex or Crispix cereal
1 cup pretzel sticks
6 tablespoons butter, melted
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
1 cup Reese's pieces
1 cup mini marshmallows
1 cup candy corn
Pre-heat the oven to 275 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Melt the butter in a large bowl, then toss together with the cereal and pretzels until evenly coated. In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar and cinnamon, then toss with the cereal mixture to evenly coat. Spread the cereal mixture onto the baking pan and bake for 20 minutes.
After removing from the oven, allow to cool completely. Then, stir together with the Reese's, candy corn and marshmallows.
25 ounces (1 750ml bottle) MIDORI
63 ounces Orange Juice
12 ounces SKYY Vodka
32 ounces Club Soda
Mix all ingredients into a punch bowl or cauldron. Stir and serve with a spoon or ladle. Serves 15-20.
"Elevated white trash" was thrown around a bit the other day.
I mean really, is there such a thing?
I had to laugh after that was the phrase offered when I asked the guys behind Savannah's newest bar/restaurant how they would describe their menu.
View Spotted photos from Treylor Park's Exclusvie VIP Sneak Preview Night
I ask that question all of the time. Some restaurant owners have a solid grasp on their concept and what they are trying to accomplish. Others have no clue. You'd be surprised, trust me.
But that's a story for another day. Back to to the "Treylor" trash guys on Bay Street. Before we go any further getting cute and punny, Treylor Park's owner goes by the name of Trey Wilder. See what he did there?
The 100 block of East Bay Street (between Abercorn and Drayton) has carried its fair share of rumors over the last few years. I've been told any number of things that were discussed to go along that street. I've heard of several different concepts for restaurants that I thought could work. I was even told about an "ice cream shop" for adults, serving cocktails and "spiked" milkshakes (defined as shakes with alcohol in them).
For the record, I loved that last idea. I have visited many, many places in other cities that do it, and do it tastefully, beautifully and with a bit of panache. But it never happened here. Oh well, maybe next time.
I first stuck my head into Treylor Park back in early August. As you might imagine, there was construction everywhere. Dust, tools, mayhem. I had a nice chat with a dust-covered Trey and got a pretty good idea of what he was looking to accomplish. Or so I thought.
Fast-forward a couple of months and the vision I had for Treylor Park and what it is today, frankly, are very different. And that's not at all a bad thing.
View Spotted photos from Treylor Park's Grand Opening
Treylor Park is a bar. Let's get that out of the way. Cocktails in the front, outdoor beer garden in the back that opens out to the lane. The space is adequate. A nice size, actually. Capacity for about 40 people in the dining room. Not overcrowded, not too small. Not at all. It's a beautiful space. The front bar is made out of a reclaimed bowling lane Trey bought from Victory Lanes at Victory and Skidaway.
"We wanted to have a Savannah element to this place," he said. Smart move.
Trey moved to Savannah from New York, where he opened and managed a good number of bars. He's worked in the W hotel chain and helped run some of New York's coolest rooftop bars. But don't hold that against him. We've all met those New Yorkers who show up in "Slowvannah" and immediately try to tell us why everything is better and better run in New York. Trey is not one of those guys.
He's working overtime to understand the city he chose to call home, and Treylor Park is an adequate reflection of that. He's got a unique space that he built out himself (with some help, of course) and he is stepping outside the box with his menu. How so? I thought you'd never ask.
In the kitchen is Hunter Sattlewhite. A nice guy from southern Virginia who has been around the block — and the world, for that matter — a couple of times. He was a yacht chef for a number of years and saw the world, but most notably, he served as a chef at the Playboy Mansion in Los Angeles. Yeah, that Playboy Mansion. It's pretty clear to me that Hunter has done his time and developed his chops for food. Fine food and fun food. The latter is where these two paths intersect.
Trey and Hunter met at "The Mansion," as he likes to call it, back in 2003. They had passing conversations about working together sometime. But you know how that goes. Well, a decade later, Trey was serious about making it happen. Once the concept came into play in Savannah, Trey asked Hunter to come on board. The menu? Quite comically — but with a straight face — Hunter says, "We want to do an elevated version of anything you would find on a shelf in a trailer."
OK? Can you expand on that?
"Well, for example, our popcorn shrimp," he says. "You can find popcorn in almost any trailer in America. We have a basket of popcorn topped with lightly fried butterflied shrimp, then drizzled with our sauce."
Alrighty then. Can't say I have ever seen that one before, but OK.
The menu goes on to include bacon, egg and cheese flatbreads with a béchamel sauce, fried bologna and cheese sandwiches and the one dish I just had to try: peanut butter and jelly chicken wings. Huh? Yeah. You read correctly.
I won't tell you know they do it, but I can say they taste just like, yep, peanut butter and jelly.
The chicken biscuit topped with country sausage gravy sounds like a winner (yes, available all the time.) The fried Oreos for dessert were to die for. Now, you don't have to wait until the Great Ogeechee Seafood Festival rolls around again for some of that.
The dishes I had were good. Very good, but you need to keep an open mind with this menu. It truly is elevated bar food.
There is really nothing wrong with that. Some people want to munch on some lighter-type fare before heading out on the town. Others may come in later looking for something different after an evening of cocktails and ballyhoo.
The space is equipped with a major league video and sound system. It's equipped for movie screenings, private parties and wedding receptions. A permanent DJ stand doubles as a four-top during the day. The music selection is diverse and at night, loud. Trey tells me he wants a diverse crowd. During the day, brunch and dinner with great, enjoyable music and then at night, he's looking for a bar crowd. I believe ultimately, that crowd will dictate how it will go for them on Bay Street.
I have every reason, based on what I tried, to believe the food at Treylor Park will be good. The sous chef in the house is Marvin Sterling, former executive chef at Ruth's Chris Steak House, who left Ruth's to be able to be more creative and less corporate. So there is experience in the kitchen.
But the test will come with the balance between restaurant early and bar later. I've seen too many places say they are going to be about food and start blurring that line into loud music and dancing earlier and earlier just to push their bar receipts. My vote is on Trey sticking to his guns and keeping a restaurant feel as long as he can before they blow the roof off. There was good dance music in there the other night. James Carville once said, "You drag a hundred dollar bill through a trailer park, you never know what you'll find."
I'm guessing at this particular Treylor Park, it will be a good time.
See you on TV,
Address: 115 E. Bay St.
Hours: Open for brunch at 10 a.m. Saturday and Sunday with late-night full menu
Info: www.treylorpark.com, 912-495-5557
Set your DVRs for 7:30 a.m. Sunday on WSAV-TV. We are going inside some of Savannah's most haunted restaurants. We've had a blast putting it together. Episodes in November will include seafood and chocolate. No, not together.
How about a Moet and Chandon wine dinner? Sound appealing? How could it not? Noble Fare is pairing their five courses with some great champagnes, including Dom Perignon. It's Nov. 3. Call 912-443-3210 for more information.
Tick, tick, tick, tick, on your chance to buy tickets to the Savannah Food and Wine Festival from Nov. 10-16. Taste of Savannah is going to be fabulous. Go to www.savannahfoodandwinefest.com.
Sign up for our newsletter to keep up to date on everything going on in the area foodwise. Look to www.eatitandlikeit.com for more details.
One of the great gastronomical hallmarks of fall is the first bite of a buttery-crusted, cinnamon-scented wedge of warm apple pie. The only thing that can beat it is the first crisp, juicy, tart-sweet bite of an apple that's right off the tree.
Autumn apples are one of the best natural arguments for eating seasonally. There are a few fruits that hold up tolerably well out of season, but apples aren't among them.
Unhappily for us, they're not a good argument for eating local. This quintessential taste of fall doesn't flourish in sultry climates like ours, so most of the apples in our markets have been shipped in from elsewhere.
Never mind that. Apples are good travelers, and one of the places that they do flourish is no farther from us than the hills of Carolina and North Georgia, which means a trip to apple territory isn't a far-fetched proposition.
Most of us have traveled farther for reasons that are not nearly as compelling as perfect apples.
If even a short road trip is more than you can manage, however, take comfort in knowing that with a little care in selecting, you can find reasonably good apples in local produce stands and even some supermarkets.
Culinary prospects of apple varieties commonly available in our markets:
• Braeburn: firm, crisp, and sweet-tart, delicious raw but also fine cooking apples.
• Cameo: when fresh and crisp, are all-purpose apples, as good raw as they are cooked.
• Fuji: sweet but soft-fleshed, are good raw or in sauce but not for cooking.
• Gala: sweet and firm, fine all-purpose apples good both raw and cooked.
• Golden Delicious: fine for cooking only when very firm and crisp. Late season, they're best raw or in sauce.
• Granny Smith: this tart, green apple is a reasonable all-purpose apple (except for sauce) and is especially good for tarts.
• Honeycrisp: this firm, tart-sweet apple is lovely raw but is not suitable for cooking or baking.
• Jazz: though not a bad snacking apple, these are soft-fleshed and make good sauce but are otherwise not good for cooking.
• Jonagold: though best eaten raw, this sweet, moderately firm apple is a fairly good cooking apple and makes fine sauce.
• McIntosh: ideal sauce apples, these are too soft for other cooking or baking.
• Pink Lady: best eaten raw, these are not good for cooking except in sauce.
• Winesap varieties (including Arkansas Black): great cooking apples and fine in salads, but not a good choice for sauce.
To core and slice or dice apples for the following recipes: Scrub under cold running water, pat dry, and, if recipe calls for it, peel. Stand on cutting board, stem up, and with large, sharp
knife, cut straight down on either side of core. Lay center core section flat on board. You'll see exactly where core is: cut straight down either side and discard core.
Stand two half-moon sides skin-side up and slice 1/8-inch thick. Lay remaining rounds on flat side and slice in same way.
To cut into dice for salads, slice thickly (
¼-to-½-inch) and cut slices into corresponding dice.
Choose tart, firm apples for frying (see notes above). If they don't have a crisp snap when you bite into them raw, they'll turn to mush when cooked. My grandmother's recipe, from my book "Beans, Greens, & Sweet Georgia Peaches" (2nd ed., Globe Pequot Press/$ 21.95).
Serves 4
Bacon drippings, clarified butter, or vegetable oil for frying
4 small, tart apples (see notes above), or 2 if large
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
Confectioners' sugar in a shaker
Powdered cinnamon in a shaker
1. Preheat oven to 150 degrees F. (or warm setting) and fit wire cooling rack into rimmed baking sheet. Put enough drippings, butter, or oil in skillet to completely cover bottom by 1/4-inch.
2. Peel and cut out stem and blossom ends of apples, and slice crosswise 1/4-inch thick. Spread flour on diner plate and have ready by pan. Heat skillet over medium high heat until fat is very hot, but not smoking (about 365 degrees). Roll apple slices in flour one at a time, shake off excess, and slip into hot fat until pan is full but not crowded. Fry until bottoms are nicely browned, about 3 minutes, turn, and fry until evenly brown, about 3 minutes more.
3. Blot on absorbent paper and transfer to prepared baking sheet. Put in warm oven while you fry remainder. If serving alone, dust with confectioners' sugar and a sprinkling of cinnamon. If intended to accompany meat, omit sugar.
There is nothing better to warm up autumn's first cold night than old-fashioned baked apples. From "Beans, Greens, & Sweet Georgia Peaches" (2nd ed., Globe Pequot Press/$21.95).
Serves 4
4 medium, firm apples (such as Arkansas Black or McIntosh)
1/2 cup raw pecans, roughly chopped
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup bourbon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more, for greasing
1 recipe Bourbon Custard Sauce (Recipe follows)
1. Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350 degrees F. Wash apples and pat dry. Cut out stem ends and scoop out cores with melon baller, leaving blossom ends intact. Lightly butter a 9-inch square baking dish or pie plate, and put in apples, stem side up.
2. In separate bowl, mix together pecans and sugar. Pack into core cavities of each apple, mounding up on top. Spoon bourbon over filling and top each with 1/2 tablespoon butter.
3. Bake in center of oven, basting with pan juices, until tender, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Let stand a few minutes before serving warm or at room temperature, with custard passed separately.
Makes 2 cups
1 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
2/3 cup sugar
6 large egg yolks, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons bourbon, or 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract and 1 tablespoon bourbon
1. Prepare bottom of double boiler with 1-inch water, cover, and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium. Stir together milk, cream, and sugar in top half of the double boiler. Bring almost to boil, stirring constantly, over direct medium heat.
2. Place pan over simmering water. Slow beat 1/2 cup hot liquid into egg yolks. Slowly add to pan and cook, stirring constantly, until lightly thickened and coating back of spoon: will continue to thicken as it cools.
3. Remove from heat and stir until slightly cooled. Stir in flavoring and keep stirring 1 minute longer. Let it cool completely and serve at room temperature or chilled.
Serves 4
4 1-inch-thick center-cut pork loin chops
Salt and whole black pepper in a mill
2 extra-thick-cut slices applewood or hickory smoked bacon, diced
1 small yellow onion, peeled and diced
2 medium tart apples, washed, cored, (peeled if preferred), and diced
3 cups sauerkraut, rinsed and drained
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/2 cup Riesling wine
1. Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350 degrees F. Pat pork chops dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Saute bacon in flame-proof casserole (such as an enameled iron Dutch oven or braiser) over medium heat until golden brown. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on absorbent paper. Add chops to pan and brown well on both sides. Remove from pan and spoon off most of fat.
2. Add onion to pan and saute until translucent and golden, about 5 minutes. Add apples and toss until hot through. Pour in wine, stirring and scraping pan to loosen cooking residue, then mix in kraut, brown sugar, mustard, and reserved bacon. Season with pepper to taste, stir, and level top with spatula. Lay pork chops on top, cover tightly, and bake in center of oven until chops are cooked through and tender, about 1 hour.
This shortbread crusted tart is easy on novice bakers, since it's a snap to put together and requires absolutely no skill on the part of the cook. From my book "Essentials of Southern Cooking" (Lyons Press, 2013/$ 35.00).
Serves 6
10 ounces (about 2 cups) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons extra-fine white cornmeal
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 pound (1 cup or 2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into small bits
2 lemons
6 large or 8 small to medium tart apples such as Arkansas Black, Braeburn, Rome, Winesap, or Granny Smith
1/4 cup chopped crystallized ginger
2–4 tablespoons turbinado ("raw") sugar
1/4 cup bourbon
Whole nutmeg in a grater
Vanilla, caramel, or dulce de leche ice cream (optional)
1. Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 375 degrees F. Whisk together flour, meal, sugar, and salt. Add butter and work in until smooth. (Can be done in food processor fitted with steel blade: Pulse together flour, meal, sugar, and salt several times to sift; add butter and process until mixture resembles raw grits or polenta; turn into mixing bowl and finish blending by hand.)
2. Put dough in 11-to-12-inch removable-bottom tart pan and press into uniform layer over entire surface and up sides. Lightly [filtered word] with fork and bake in center of oven 10 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack while preparing apples.
3. Cut zest from both lemons in fine strips with bar zester or remove with vegetable peeler and cut into fine julienne with sharp knife. Halve lemons and squeeze juice through strainer into large glass or stainless-steel bowl. Peel and core apples and slice 1/4 inch thick. Add to lemon juice, tossing to coat.
4. Arrange apple slices in single layer of overlapping circles on top of crust, scattering ginger as you go. Sprinkle with raw sugar, lemon zest, and bourbon; generously grate nutmeg over top.
5. Bake until apples are tender and golden, about 40 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature with, if liked, vanilla, caramel, or dulce de leche ice cream.
Spicy Chopped Apple Muffins
Adapted from Jean Anderson's lovely new book, "Mad for Muffins: 70 Amazing Muffin Recipes from Savory to Sweet" (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt/$ 19.99).
Makes 1 Dozen
2 cups sifted all-purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar or raw sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon apple pie spice (see note below)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup moderately coarsely chopped pecans or walnuts
2/3 cup buttermilk blended with 1/3 cup apple cider
1 large egg
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted
3/4 cup moderately finely chopped peeled and cored crisp, tart apple (about 1 medium), such as Granny Smith, Greenings, Staymans, or Winesaps
1 1/2 tablespoons Cinnamon-Sugar (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Lightly grease 12 standard muffin pan cups or spritz with non-stick cooking spray or insert a crinkly paper cupcake liners into each cup. Set pans aside.
2. Combine first six ingredients (flour through salt) in medium mixing bowl, add pecans and toss well, then make well in center of dry ingredients and set aside.
3. Whisk buttermilk mixture with egg and melted butter in second medium-size bowl until well blended, then stir in chopped apple. Pour into well in dry ingredients, and stir only enough to mix. Specks of flour should be visible in batter.
4. Spoon batter into muffin pans, dividing amount equally – each muffin pan cup will be approximately 2/3 full though occasionally a bit more or a bit less. Scatter cinnamon-sugar over muffins, dividing amount evenly.
5. Slide onto middle oven shelf and bake about 20 to 25 minutes until muffins have risen, their tops are gently rounded and lightly browned. Serve at once with or without unsalted butter – these muffins really don't need butter.
Note: If you cannot find apple pie spice, use 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg, and 1/8 teaspoon each ground allspice and cardamom.
Keep this in a shaker for making cinnamon toast, French toast, or for dusting pies and cakes.
Makes about 1 cup
1 cup granulated sugar
1-2 tablespoons ground cinnamon (see notes)
1. Put sugar in small mixing bowl and sprinkle cinnamon over it. Whisk until sugar is evenly colored. Alternatively, you may put sugar and cinnamon in pint jar, tightly cover, and shake until evenly mixed.
2. Store in covered, well-sealed jar or lidded shaker in cool, dry place.
Notes: Jean Anderson uses 2 tablespoons of true cinnamon (also sold as "Ceylon cinnamon") in her recipe for this blend. Most commercial ground cinnamon is actually cassia, a closely related spice that is brighter and not nearly as subtle as true cinnamon. The color of cassia is brighter and rustier than true cinnamon, and its aroma is more pungent. It is also not nearly as subtle. If you're using commercial ground cinnamon, use only 1 slightly rounded tablespoon.
If you've been around the area for a while, then you remember Matt Roher when he was owner/executive chef at Cha Bella from 2007-11. He had quite a following there.
The restaurant was at the height of its popularity and Matt was developing a "farm box" concept with fresh produce delivered to your door once a week. He even tried his hand at barbecue in Bloomingdale. Then it all went silent. Matt went off the radar.
"I'm a recovering entrepreneur," he says. I hear ya. We've all been there, haven't we?
I lost touch with Matt for a few years until 2013, when I was speaking to a lunch group out at The Landings Club. I turn and look at a doorway, and he walks by. It was like seeing a ghost.
Wow. The Landings? Matt? What are you doing here?
Turns out, Matt has been keeping very busy at The Landings Club, and Savannah as a whole will potentially benefit from it.
If you don't know how it works out on Skidaway Island, The Landings are a private residential community. There are four clubhouses on the massive property, each of them catering to the golf crowd. Some of the prettiest courses I've played in this city are at The Landings.
Each of those clubhouses has a restaurant. Each of those restaurants are essentially operated independently. And sometimes, accidentally or otherwise, compete against each other.
"It was like herding cats," Matt tells me. There were different directors of operations, and everyone was pretty much doing their own thing with their own agenda.
Not exactly the model of efficiency when everyone is operating under the same umbrella.
There were whispers throughout the community that banquets were better at one spot, but seafood was better at another. Matt was doing his thing at Marshwood, one of the four clubs on the property.
"We had done some great stuff at Marshwood," he says.
A short time later, Matt was asked to share what he was doing with the other clubhouses. He was essentially hired to be the fix-it guy. In a movie about all of this, I'm gathering he'd be played by Harvey Keitel. What followed, essentially, was a complete overhaul of the culinary operations at The Landings. From the bottom, up.
"We got them excited about what we were doing again," Matt says. "Slimmed-down management, basically down to cooks, and got them passionate about what they are doing."
The result is a renewed approach to the way you eat out at The Landings. They no longer compete against each other. The goal is to complement each other.
"Now, if you want to have a wedding reception or a banquet at any of our clubs, it's all under the same umbrella. Same quality," he says. "The Landings hasn't had the greatest reputation. Now? I'll put us up against anyone in town."
Strong words, but now you have a chance to try it. There are talks of developing non-resident member options for dining at the clubs at The Landings, but that is down the road.
Next month, Matt and his crew are hosting a dinner as part of the Savannah Food and Wine Festival, and he can't wait to show off his shiny new car.
The dinner is a seafood extravaganza. Oysters, cedar roasted wreck fish and housemade sushi are just some of the items.
It will be limited to 60 seats and I have zero doubt this event will sell out. The Landings community alone could fill 60 seats. This is open to everyone, so if you'd like to attend, I'd suggest you get your tickets sooner rather than later.
The big picture here is pretty obvious and ultimately, it could benefit us all if you enjoy a nice dinner out. For the longest time, The Landings ran a nice community, but their choices for meals were just another option. Matt was put in place to try to change that entire perception.
"As demos shift, the whole culinary scene and the Food Network culture, we want to be first-choice dining," he says. "Pick one of ours before you get into your car and roll the dice downtown."
Like I said, those are pretty strong words considering how demanding the clientele can be, but hey, all Matt wants is for you to give him a chance to back those words up. I've got a feeling he will.
For more information on the five-course Savannah Food and Wine Festival dinner, go to www.savannahfoodandwinefest.com.
See you on TV.
Speaking of the Savannah Food and Wine Festival, it's from Nov. 10-16. That is around the corner. There is a fantastic lineup this year. A lot of the dinners will sell out. Don't delay. You don't want to be left out.
Cuban food: I found a gold mine. It's a beautiful day trip and well worth it. The food, the scene, all of it. Check it out right now at www.eatitandlikeit.com.
Speaking of our website, if you haven't visited lately, you should. Brand-new look, mobile friendly and more efficient than it has ever been.
I'm getting a lot of inquiries about the status of Betty Bombers, Granite and 39 Rue de Jean. Permits, permits, permits. The process with the city needs to run its course.
We are going inside some of Savannah's haunted restaurants at 7:30 a.m. Oct. 26 on WSAV.
I often have people say to me, "I don't know how you do it!"
They don't understand how I manage my hectic lifestyle. I always smile and think, if they only knew.
What if they knew that a couple of Saturdays ago, I slept late (which is 7 a.m. in my book) cleaned the kitchen a little, put on a load of clothes, tidied up a bit in the living room and at 10 a.m. I took a nap. Yes, I took a morning nap and an afternoon nap, too.
I don't remember what craziness happened that week, but I reached Friday afternoon totally spent. I had to rest – or in today's vernacular, "power down."
I can imagine many of you can relate to my power down weekend, or at least wish you could find time to have one!
For those who still have children at home and face a Saturday with 40 loads of laundry to wash, dry and put away, hungry family members looking for a meal and a soccer game or dance recital to squeeze in, a lazy Saturday just isn't an option.
Whether you're an overworked, empty-nest adult or a young parent, there has to be periodical respites. And sometimes the only way to get one is to plan for it.
Designate one Saturday in advance as your "power down Saturday." It may mean working a little later one night during the week to catch up with the laundry or tidy up the living room, but it will be worth it when Saturday rolls around.
Of course one thing we have to do, no matter how lazy we plan to be, is eat. When I have a power down Saturday, I don't want to go out to eat. That means I have to climb out of my ragged T-shirt and comfy shorts, and that just ruins the day.
I don't want to cook, but I would rather heat something up than bother with going out to get something to eat. With a little forethought and planning, you can have dinner just about completely made in advance, which will reduce the time in the kitchen – cooking and cleaning – and you don't have to forsake those comfy clothes to enjoy it!
Here are some hints for keeping everyone fed while you're in power down mode:
1. Don't forget breakfast. Yes, cereal is an option, but why not prepare a pan of breakfast muffins, a simple frittata or breakfast casserole one night during the week? Buy or cut up some fruit in advance and on Saturday you can reheat your breakfast in the microwave, pair it with your fruit and a glass of juice. It sort of sets the tone for the special day, and everyone knows that a morning nap is always sweeter with a full stomach!
2. Lunch is easy. A bowl of soup and sandwich and you'll feel like you're at the Ritz. I love a pot of homemade soup, but there are many good soup mixes on the grocery shelves that I use when I don't have time to make a pot. Bear Creek
and Knorr's dehydrated soups are my favorites. Just add water and cook for a few minutes. You would probably be surprised how many chains use these types of soup bases to make their "specialty" soups!
3. Dinner is the main party-pooper in the mix. You've made the whole day easy, but dinner requires more than a sandwich and leftover soup.
Dinner can still be special, because you made it earlier in the week! Slow cook a good marinara sauce one night, and on Saturday simply reheat and pair it with frozen gourmet ravioli from the grocery store. Purchase one of those bag salads that are complete with the dressing and toppings. Add some crusty bread from the store and you have dinner! Of course you could also make a casserole (or buy one of Miss Sophie's) and add the salad and bread to finish off the meal.
You may find that planning and preparing for your power down Saturday causes a little more stress during the week, but trust me, come Saturday morning, you'll be glad you did it when you're curled up with a good book and the first of many naps of the day!
Teri Bell is co-owner of Miss Sophie's Marketplace at the Mighty Eighth in Pooler. Go to sophiesmarketplace.com.
Marinara Sauce is basically a tomato sauce with herbs and/or vegetables. Making your own is easy and has so much more flavor.
1 (28 oz) can San Marzano whole tomatoes
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped fine
2 large sprigs of basil
1 teaspoon Salt
Pepper to taste
Pour tomatoes & juice into a bowl and crush with your hands. Heat olive oil in a saucepan, add garlic and stir until garlic sizzles, about 30 seconds. Add tomatoes, salt and basil and stir. Cook, uncovered over medium heat for 20-25 minutes until thickened and the oil separates from the sauce. Remove basil and season to taste.
If Marinara isn't your favorite, try this versatile chicken. This can be served as a meal or as a dip and can be made 3 days in advance!
1 (15 oz) can of chili without beans
1 cup Salsa
8 green onions finely chopped
1 (4 ½ oz) can black olives (optional)
1 teaspoon of salt
3 ounces (3/8 cup) cream cheese
4 cooked boneless chicken breasts chopped
4 cups grated Monterey Jack cheese
4 cups cooked rice or Tortilla chips for dipping
Spray a 9X13 pan with cooking spray and set aside. In a large bowl, combine the chili, salsa, green onions, olives, salt and cream cheese. Add the chicken and mix well. Pour into greased pan and top with cheese. Cover and refrigerate for 3 hours or up to 3 days; or preheat oven to 350 degrees and bake uncovered for 30 minutes or until hot and bubbly. Serve over rice or with tortillas for dipping.
1/2 cup canned pumpkin
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup milk
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 egg
1 3/4 cup flour
2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup brown sugar, packed
1/2 cup chopped nuts or oats
1/2 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Puree banana in blender to make 1/2 cup. Mix pureed banana, pumpkin, sugar, milk, oil and egg until well blended. In a separate bowl, combine flour, baking powder, pumpkin pie spice and salt. Add flour mixture to banana mixture and stir until blended. Spoon into greased muffin tins. Combine topping ingredients and top each muffin with 1 tablespoon of the sugar-spice mixture. Bake oven for 20 minutes or until toothpick inserted into muffin comes out clean.
It's become a frequently asked question from visitors to the new cake shop on Hodgson Memorial Drive: "Oh wow, did you know there is a Lulu's Chocolate Bar downtown?"
"Um, yeah, that's us. Same cakes."
"Oh! I didn't know that."
It's kind of funny when you think about it, considering the name Lulu's has made for itself since opening its doors downtown on MLK. It has, without question, become a destination for tourists who love to play the "find the locals' spots" game on websites like Trip Advisor, Yelp or Urbanspoon.
The local cocktail crowd knows all about Lulu's Chocolate Bar. The tourists seek it out. But now Lulu's has a second location.
However, you know what they say about trees, woods and witnesses. Despite a big ol' refrigerated van parked out front with a big ol' logo on it (same as the one downtown) people still ask that question.
"Did you know there is a Lulu's Chocolate Bar downtown?"
Never mind the fact that a person by the name of "Lulu" doesn't exist; the name is unique enough to connect the dots between locations. If the name doesn't do it for you, then step inside and take a bite of something in there. Then you will know.
Lulu Cakes isn't a second location for the cocktail bar. No, no. Lulu Cakes is a full-blown, full-service bakery right in the heart of town.
Janine Finn and Rebecca Radovich started Lulu's on MLK. Rebecca is the popular baker, Janine is the bean counter. Together they brought something unique to downtown Savannah: A great spot for cocktails, a glass of wine and a wonderful housemade dessert.
It's a great way to start or end your evening. I've done both many, many times. So have countless others.
Their success story is a great one since setting up shop on an (at the time) underdeveloped MLK corridor. Now, as I mentioned before, the tourists search for Lulu's and love the cakes and treats so much, the next question they get is, "OMG, do you ship these?" Yeah, they are really that good.
The demand for whole cakes and shipping and special events and a ton of extra business started the ladies on their path to a new location. They had talked about it for a while. They certainly needed a larger kitchen to handle the demand, but weren't going to jump at anything just for the sake of having more space.
Eventually, the timing was right and now they are churning out the same greatness on Southside Savannah, at 7060 Hodgson Memorial Drive.
"We absolutely love having this much space," Rebecca says.
I can only imagine. The kitchen downtown is small. And they stayed plenty busy. They still do in that tiny space, but the special orders, custom orders and wedding cakes (yes, wedding cakes) are now being produced at Lulu Cakes.
Even the new name as a nice ring to it, no?
I spent some time with the ladies recently getting a good look at what they are up to inside Lulu Cakes.
Here I am standing among countless desserts, watching the staff slice peaches, pour chocolate and frost cakes, and I didn't take one single bite. Not one.
Oh, I was offered! But I behaved that day. It was tough, but I maintained my composure.
The cakes looked amazing. I still dream about the chocolate chip cheesecake. That was the closest I got to grabbing a slice with my bare hand, backing into a corner and just jamming it in my face. Again, tempted, but no deal.
They do everything on Hodgson Memorial that they do downtown and then some. Especially the special orders. They are growing their brand into the very competitive wedding cake market here in Savannah, but their quality should put them up against anything else you will find in town.
I know I need to step lightly because there is tremendous wedding cake talent in this city (and more on the way), but I have yet to try anything from Lulu's that wasn't just amazing. So why not wedding cakes? They should be on your list when shopping around.
Long past the wedding phase of life? Well, then your next Midtown coffee run should include a stop at Lulu Cakes for a slice or seven of their desserts. Cookies? Yeah, they've got those, as well. The office will love you. They might even let you go home early.
Of course, I'm just being silly. But know that you don't have to drive all the way downtown to get the same baked goodness from Lulu's Cakes that you will find at Lulu's Chocolate Bar.
Tourists sweep in and ship them all over — they are that good. Think about what you'd save in postage.
Just don't ask them if they know about Lulu's Chocolate Bar downtown.
Yeah, they've heard that one before.
See you on TV.
Address: 7060 Hodgson Memorial Drive
Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday-Saturday
Info: 912-480-4564
One of my favorite events on River Street every year is Oct. 11: The ninth annual Fiesta Latina. Hard to believe it has been nine years. They do a phenomenal job with this event. Not only is it one of the best attended, it is a flat-out great time. They'll have live music from noon-9 p.m. (dancing encouraged), all the food you can handle from several different countries and a great family atmosphere. Read more about it right here in DO Savannah.
If salsa and merengue are not your thing, then maybe watching Paula Deen lick my face is spicy enough for you? My segment on the Paula Deen Network debuted last week. We made buffalo chicken po' boys and had a great time in the process. My face hurt from laughing so much that day. You don't need a subscription to see the shortened version (lick included). It's on the home page at www.pauladeen.com.
The final lineup of wine dinners for the Savannah Food & Wine Festival is set. There are some great dinners and phenomenal wines scheduled for the week of Nov. 11-16. Take a look at the list right now at www.savannahfoodandwinefest.com.
Our new season of "Eat It and Like It" rolls on. Last week we took you to Bluffton. This week we are going inside some Italian kitchens in the area. I'm getting hungry just thinking about it. Join us (or set your DVR) at 7:30 a.m. Sundays on WSAV-TV.
As autumn finally begins to touch the air and stimulate our palates to crave heartier fare, there is nothing that satisfies that craving quite as well as a perfectly cooked steak.
Handsomely caramelized on the outside, warm but still red and juicy on the inside, it's the very essence of simplicity on a plate. What's more, it's hearty and rich without a lot of involved preparation and without our having wait while it simmers for hours.
And for my money, the simplest and most satisfying way to cook that steak, the allure of hardwood smoke on cool fall air notwithstanding, is to pan-broil it.
Unhappily, it's also one of the most misunderstood.
All too often confused with sauteing and frying, this simple method is cooking at its most elemental, involving just four things: a thick-bottomed iron pan, a good cut of meat, moderate heat, and common sense on the part of the cook.
Yes, moderate heat: That's where the cook's common sense should come into play. Just as you don't want an actual blaze underneath a steak on the grill, you don't want a pan that's hot enough to burn Atlanta all over again.
Yet, one of the biggest mistakes in pan-broiling is not only allowing the pan to get red-hot, but believing it has to be that way to properly do the job. It doesn't. In fact, a pan that's pluming smoke before the steaks lands in it is already stacking the odds toward failure.
If the pan is overheated, the outer surface of the steak is going to burn rather than sear, and before the cook knows what's happening, the surface is unpleasantly black and bitter long before the center is warm, let alone cooked – even if the preference is for rare-done meat.
This is especially true for meat from grass-fed, pastured animals, which can actually be made tougher by this kind of careless treatment.
Fortunately, the mistake is easy to avoid, and a perfect pan-broil can easily be within any cook's reach.
Seven Secrets to Perfect Pan-Broiling:
• The steaks should be at least 1-inch thick but less than 2 inches thick. They need to be thick enough so as not to overcook at the center before the outer surface is sufficiently caramelized, but not so thick that the outside chars before the center is done.
• You need a heavy-bottomed pan that is not much bigger than the steaks you are cooking. If it's too large, the fat will roll out to the edges and burn, making for an unpleasant smoky experience that will at best set off your smoke alarm. My own preference is well-seasoned cast iron. And again, said pan should be hot, yes, but not blazing.
• Have the meat at room temperature. I know what's being said about having them really cold so that the center stays rare, but unless you like them "blue-rare" (a barely warm 90 degrees at the center), for pan-broiling, cold meat is not going to cook evenly.
• Make sure the surface is dry: wrap the steaks well in a couple of layers of paper towels for a few minutes and blot them well before adding them to the pan.
• Season them before they're fully cooked. You want to give the seasonings a chance to sink into the meat. Some experienced cooks even season steaks just before they go into the pan. Conventional wisdom held that salting them before they cook would draw out the juices – and it would if the steaks sat around with salt on it, but if they're seasoned just before searing, there really isn't enough time for that to begin happening.
• Have the oven heated and ready to finish the steak. This will you achieve a more even level of doneness while minimizing the amount of smoke in the kitchen.
• Have the rest of the meal ready: once the steaks have rested, they won't wait while you fiddle with something else, and deglace sauce won't hold.
Temperature Chart for Levels of Doneness
Keep in mind that the internal temperature will climb another 5 degrees while it's resting, so take it when the thermometer is reading 5 degrees lower than given here for the preferred level of doneness.
"Rare" (warm, soft, deep red center): 110-120 degrees F.
"Medium rare" (warm, medium-firm, red center: 125-130 degrees F.
"Medium" (warm, firm red center): 130-135 degrees F.
"Medium well" (hot pink-red center): 140-145 degrees F.
Perfect Pan-Broiled Steak
The optional sauce here is a "Deglace" (pronounced Day-glah-SAY), which is really just French for "pan-gravy" but doesn't it sound classier?
Serves 2
1 1-1/4-inch-thick strip steak (about 1 pound) or 2 1-1/4-inch-thick trimmed rib or tenderloin steaks
About 3 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 if finishing with herb butter)
Salt and whole black pepper in a mill
For Deglace, if cooking any of the steaks:
1 tablespoon finely minced shallot
1/2 cup dry white vermouth
2-3 tablespoons beef broth
2 tablespoons minced parsley
Or, Maitre d'Hotel Butter (recipe follows), only if cooking rib or tenderloin steaks
1. Be sure the steaks are room temperature, and have all the side dishes ready. Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 450-500 degrees F. Wrap the steaks well with paper towels and gently press to blot them, then put a well-seasoned 10-inch cast iron pan over medium heat. Leave it to heat for 4-5 minutes (setting a timer if necessary).
2. Unwrap the steaks, add 2 small pats of butter (about half a tablespoon each) to the pan. They will immediately start to sizzle; lay the steaks over the butter and raise the heat to medium-high. Let them sear until they are well-browned. If they seem to be sticking to the pan, let them sear until they naturally release. This should be no more than 2 minutes.
3. Turn and season with salt and pepper. Let them sear on that side for another 1-1/2-to-2 minutes, then turn and season the second side well with salt and pepper. Transfer the pan to the oven, and cook until they are done to your taste, about 1-to-1-1/2 minutes for very rare, 2 minutes for medium rare, 2-1/2-to-3 for medium. If you like them well-done you're on your own. The exact timing will depend on the thickness of the steak, so if it's thicker than 1-1/4-inch, it may need a minute or so more.
4. Remove the pan from oven and transfer the steaks to a plate or small platter. Let rest 2-3 minutes. Meanwhile, divide whatever side dishes you're serving with the steaks between two warm dinner plates and make the deglace sauce (see step 5) if you're having it.
5. To finish them with Deglace, while the streaks are resting, return the pan to medium heat. Add the shallot and saute until it's golden. Pour in the wine and broth, stirring and scraping to loosen the cooking residue from the pan. Raise the heat to high and let it boil until the liquids are reduced and almost syrupy, then quickly remove it from the heat and swirl or whisk in a tablespoon of butter until melted and emulsified into the liquid. Add the remaining tablespoon of butter and swirl or whisk until it is also incorporated. Finally, swirl in the parsley. If you've made a strip steak, slice it crosswise into an even number of slices. Quickly transfer the meat to the prepared dinner plates, pour the sauce over them, and serve immediately.
6. To finish individual steaks with herb butter, transfer the steaks to the prepared plates and top each with a generous 1-to-1-1/2-tablespoon-sized slice of it and serve immediately.
Maitre d'Hotel Butter
One of the most famous of all flavored butters (called "compound" butters), this one is classic on pan-broiled steak but this is nothing more than good butter spiked with fresh lemon, and parsley: face it – that'll go with almost anything. This makes a nice presentation on a whole steak, but it really doesn't work on steak that is served already sliced.
Makes about 9 tablespoons
4 ounces (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, preferably European, softened
2 generous tablespoons freshly minced flat-leaf parsley
About 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt and whole white pepper in a mill
1. Lightly cream the butter with a wooden spoon. Mix in parsley and lemon juice, to taste, and season it well with salt and pepper. This can be done in a food processor fitted with a steel blade.
2. Spoon butter onto one end of a square of wax paper. Roll it up in the paper into a 1-inch-diameter cylinder and fold the ends. Chill until firm. To serve, slice it into 1/2-to-1-1/2-tablespoon rounds as needed. It will keep for up to 2 weeks, well-wrapped and refrigerated. Use it to top warm steaks, fish, lamb chops, or vegetables.
A note on the photographs: for some reason my camera does not like being exposed to red, so the steak in these pictures photographed a deep pink, but it was very red.