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Zenhiser has announced the release of Massive Trance Presets 3.
- Bass - 20.
- Leads - 25.
- Pads - 20.
- Plucks - 20.
- Zip Size - 1MB.
- Preset Files - nmsv.
Price: AU $30.00.
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Summers of yesteryear
For more than 100 years now Queen's Summer School has been a campus tradition, but never more so than in the years from 1910 until the late 1970s.
Other than the sounds of heavy machinery emanating from the Goodes Hall and Nixon Field construction sites, Queen's has been quieter than usual this summer. That's because for the first time in more than a century, no credit courses were offered on campus.
If you turn the clock back four or five decades, a very different picture emerges. Queen's Summer School – formally opened in 1910, but offering credit courses since 1888 – transformed the campus each July and August. The majority of students were elementary and high school teachers upgrading their education to improve career prospects.
"The whole atmosphere is enthusiastic and thriving, but with a distinctive flavour," reported The Queen's Review in August 1929. "It is pervaded with the seriousness of professional life and with the discipline of domesticity. In games it is assiduous and expert but without undergraduate abandon, and without becoming 'collegiate.' In other words, the Summer School is essentially a Faculty of its own."
In 1934 more than 500 students "from every province in the Dominion" registered for summer courses in arts and science, physical culture, and fine arts. Outdoor classes in painting, introduced that year, proved an attraction for both teachers and Kingston residents. The Summer School Chorus gave a public concert of Bach's Mass in B Minor and arias from the opera Gioconda, while drama students presented four one-act plays and two poetry readings.
Unlike most of her classmates in the summer of 1943, Bea Corbett, Arts'44, MA'95, was a full-time student. It was wartime, explains Bea – who is now retired in Kingston – and she wanted to graduate quickly so she could join the newly minted Women's Royal Canadian Naval Service (WRENS). "Much as I loved being at Queen's, there was an added urgency to finish," she says.
Summer classes were smaller and less formal, making it easier for students to get to know one another and their professors, many of whom had been imported from other universities to teach. Bea remembers in particular a Toronto philosophy instructor whose course on ethics caused her mind to soar. "I almost regretted having chosen English as my major," she chuckles.
Isabel Eddy, Arts'44, a classmate and close friend of Corbett's, attended the same summer session. Her future husband, Robert Eddy, Sc'41, was training in England with the Royal Canadian Engineers and she recalls that Queen's "was a beleaguered community" in 1943. "Most of the young men had vanished from campus to join the armed forces or work in essential war industries. Family problems left me anchored to Kingston, but I was restless and anxious to finish my degree under the ancien régime before it collapsed entirely!"
To both women, the "regular" summer students – many in their 30s and 40s, with years of teaching experience – seemed to come from a different world altogether. One gently chided Isabel for writing the last page of a term paper 10 minutes before the deadline. "She made me feel like an idler," Isabel says with a laugh.
In the 1950s, courses in ballet, choral direction, opera, public speaking, theatrical art, radio production and "a School of English for French-speaking Canadians" were added to the roster, while teachers living in Hamilton, Bermuda could take Queen's summer courses in psychology or history, thanks to a collaboration with the Bermuda Department of Education.
Enrolment had risen to 1,500 by 1960, when the School celebrated its golden jubilee. Eight years later, a brochure listed 71 credit courses in 24 disciplines and promised "the ideal combination of study and relaxation during the summer months" with social events and sports such as tennis, softball and swimming.
Attendance peaked in 1971, at just under 3,000 students – and then the bubble burst. The Ontario Ministry of Education made a university degree mandatory for certification, which meant teachers could no longer obtain their degrees gradually, after starting their jobs. By 1978 registration had dropped to 700, and since then numbers have continued to decline.
This year all summer courses are offered online, with close to 3,000 enrolments in 32 courses, ranging across the sciences, humanities and social sciences. "Enrolment in on-campus courses had dropped to an unsustainable level," says Brenda Ravenscroft, Associate Dean (Studies) in the Faculty of Arts and Science, noting that "Students prefer the flexibility of online courses in the summer."
One of the most popular online offerings this summer? Not surprisingly, it's a course on digital media culture, tailored for iPads and smartphones.
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- 2014-08-30: Faith date: Jainism: Samvatsari
- 2014-08-31: Athletics & Recreation welcomes the class of 2018 at Welcoming U Rally
- 2014-08-31: Tessier scores three in return as Gaels drop RMC 6-0
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- 2014-08-30: Defending OUA Champs wheel off a pair of victories in exhibition play
- 2014-08-29: Eight Gaels notch tries in exhibition route of McGill 53-14

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Cord blood refers to a sample of blood collected from the umbilical cord when a baby is born. The umbilical cord is the cord connecting the baby to the mother's womb.
This article focuses on cord blood testing done to evaluate a newborn's health.
Immediately after the birth of your baby, the umbilical cord is clamped and cut. If cord blood is to be drawn, another clamp is placed 8 to 10 inches away from the first, then the isolated section is cut and a blood sample is collected into a specimen tube.
No special preparation is necessary for this test.
You will not feel anything beyond the normal birthing process.
Cord blood testing is done to determine the following:
Normal values mean that all items evaluated are within normal range.
A low pH (less than 7.04 to 7.10) means there are higher levels of acids in the baby's blood. This might occur when the baby does not get enough oxygen during labor. One reason for this could be that the umbilical cord was compressed during labor or delivery.
A blood culture that is positive for bacteria measn you have a blood infection (septicemia).
High levels of blood sugar (glucose) in the cord blood may be found if the mother has diabetes. The newborn will be watched for hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) after delivery.
High levels of bilirubin could be due to infections that the baby gets before birth, including:
Other possible causes include:
Note: Normal value ranges may vary slightly among different laboratories. Talk to your doctor about the meaning of your specific test results.
Most hospitals routinely collect cord blood for testing at birth, since it is relatively convenient and the only time possible to collect such blood. Besides cord blood testing, cord blood can be used to treat certain types of bone marrow-related cancers. Some parents may choose to save (bank) their child's cord blood for this and other, future medical purposes.
Cord blood banking for personal use is done by private companies, which charge for the service. Cord blood can also be donated to your local blood bank for use by others as needed to treat leukemia and other cancers.
American Academy of Pediatrics Section on Hematology/Oncology, American Academy of Pediatrics Section on Allergy/Immunology, Lubin BH, Shearer WT. Cord blood banking for potential future transplantation. Pediatrics 2007;119(1):165-170.
Carlo WA. The fetus. In: Kliegman RM, Behrman RE, Jenson HB, Stanton BF, eds. Nelson Textbook of Pediatrics. 19th ed. Philadelphia, Pa: Saunders Elsevier; 2011:chap 90.
Linda J. Vorvick, MD, Medical Director and Director of Didactic Curriculum, MEDEX Northwest Division of Physician Assistant Studies, Department of Family Medicine, UW Medicine, School of Medicine, University of Washington. Susan Storck, MD, FACOG, Chief, Eastside Department of Obstetrics and Gynecology, Group Health Cooperative of Puget Sound, Bellevue, Washington; Clinical Teaching Faculty, Department of Obstetrics and Gynecology, University of Washington School of Medicine. Also reviewed by David Zieve, MD, MHA, Medical Director, A.D.A.M. Health Solutions, Ebix, Inc.
Affiliated with the University of Pittsburgh Schools of the Health Sciences
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For help in finding a doctor or health service that suits your needs, call the UPMC Referral Service at 412-647-UPMC (8762) or 1-800-533-UPMC (8762). Select option 1.
UPMC is an equal opportunity employer. UPMC policy prohibits discrimination or harassment on the basis of race, color, religion, ancestry, national origin, age, sex, genetics, sexual orientation, marital status, familial status, disability, veteran status, or any other legally protected group status. Further, UPMC will continue to support and promote equal employment opportunity, human dignity, and racial, ethnic, and cultural diversity. This policy applies to admissions, employment, and access to and treatment in UPMC programs and activities. This commitment is made by UPMC in accordance with federal, state, and/or local laws and regulations.
Medical information made available on UPMC.com is not intended to be used as a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. You should not rely entirely on this information for your health care needs. Ask your own doctor or health care provider any specific medical questions that you have. Further, UPMC.com is not a tool to be used in the case of an emergency. If an emergency arises, you should seek appropriate emergency medical services.
For UPMC Mercy Patients: As a Catholic hospital, UPMC Mercy abides by the Ethical and Religious Directives for Catholic Health Care Services, as determined by the United States Conference of Catholic Bishops. As such, UPMC Mercy neither endorses nor provides medical practices and/or procedures that contradict the moral teachings of the Roman Catholic Church.
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What is the estimated delivery time?
Sellers generally procure and ship the items within the time specified on the product page. Business days exclude public holidays and Sundays.
Estimated delivery time depends on the following factors:
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It is possible that the Seller or our courier partners observe a holiday between the day you placed your order and the date of delivery, which is based on the timelines shown on the product page. In this case, we add a day to the estimated date. Some courier partners and Sellers do not work on Sundays and this is factored in to the delivery dates.
What do the different tags like "In Stock", "Available" mean?
What do the different tags like "In Stock", "Available" mean?
'In Stock'
For items listed as "In Stock", Sellers will mention the delivery time based on your location pincode (usually 2-3 business days, 4-5 business days or 4-6 business days in areas where standard courier service is available). For other areas, orders will be sent by Registered Post through the Indian Postal Service which may take 1-2 weeks depending on the location.
The Seller might not have the item in stock but can procure it when an order is placed. The delivery time will depend on the estimated procurement time and the estimated shipping time to your location.
'Preorder' or 'Forthcoming'
Such items are expected to be released soon and can be pre-booked for you. The item will be shipped to you on the day of it's official release launch and will reach you in 2 to 6 business days. The Preorder duration varies from item to item. Once known, release time and date is mentioned. (Eg. 5th May, August 3rd week)
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Currently, the item is not available for sale. Use the 'Notify Me' feature to know once it is available for purchase.
Sometimes, items have to be sourced by Sellers from outside India. These items are mentioned as 'Imported' on the product page and can take at least 10 days or more to be delivered to you.
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Why does the estimated delivery time vary for each seller?
Why does the estimated delivery time vary for each seller?
You have probably noticed varying estimated delivery times for Sellers of the product you are interested in. Delivery times are influenced by product availability, geographic location of the Seller, your shipping destination and the courier partner's time-to-deliver to your location.
Please enter your default pin code on the product page (you don't have to enter it every single time) to know more accurate delivery times on the product page itself.
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With 30 inbuilt games, your little bundle of joy will always have something interesting and fun to do thanks to the Genius Heeha 300 gaming console. You can enjoy this diverse assortment of games with16-bit graphics on the Heeha 300 handheld console.
Your children can choose to play arcade games under categories like puzzles, racing and brain-teasers. You can wave goodbye to boredom when you have games like Secret Bottle, Sudoku, Happy Farm, Morra, Spring Bros., Mystic Totem, Push the Box, Puzzle Pop, Mister Easter, Grass Cutter, Flame Beetles, Sea War, Ball Clash and Road Star in your back pocket. These games have been structured to suit children, hence they are safe as well as helpful.
Design & PowerWeighing a mere 66 g, the Genius Heeha 300 console is portable and light-weight. Designed to resemble a mobile phone, this handheld console has dimensions of 113 x 57 x 20 mm. The vertical design of this console makes it easy to game and considerably decreases the strain on your fingers.
The Heeha 300 video gaming gadget makes for a fun companion for long journeys as it keeps you child engaged and happy. This Genius Heeha console has a 2.5 inch color LCD screen with an aspect ratio of 16:9. This lets you game without straining your eyes as well as makes every game an optical delight.
The spaced out buttons of this ergonomically designed gaming device from Genius fits with ease in the palm of your hands. The face of this gadget houses several essential buttons. On the right side you will find the A and B action buttons along with the volume controller to increase or decrease in-game sound effects.
The left side has the 4-way D-pad that lets you maneuver your character through the game. Above this button, you will find the power buttons which also doubles as the reset button. The reset button is very important for a handheld console as it lets you do-over or restart a game conveniently.
The Genius Heeha 300 portable console runs on 3 AAA size alkaline batteries. These batteries are affordable and are readily available as well. On fitting new batteries into the Genius Heeha console, your child can play games continuously for up to 7 hours. Petite and trendy, the Genuis Heeha 300 is the perfect gift for your tiny tot.
|Heeha 300
|Console Type
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|2.5 inch LCD
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All major credit and debit cards are accepted. We also accept payments by Internet Banking, Cash on Delivery and Equated Monthly Installments(EMI).


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Wine Search
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Click on any name below for more info including weblinks, email addresses, and info on retailers who carry many of these products.
Please note: We review wine, beer, and spirits. We don't sell it. Prices may vary significantly due to shipping fees and state taxes, and some items may be hard to find.
Recent Reviews - The following reviews were conducted in the last year. Below are 1 through 1 of the 1 recent reviews found.
88 • Stinas Cellars NV Sweet Beginnings, Washington $16/375 ml.
Tawny garnet with aromas of cherry pie, plum, honey and red pepper jelly. Medium sweet medium body with clove, allspice, cinnamon and mace flavors that with the fruit give this a mulled wine character. The fruit is soft and the spice is interesting. A nice dessert choice. Try with cheese or baklava. (tasted on Sep-06-2013)
Older Reviews - No reviews were found that were conducted within the last 12 to 0.000000 months. To find older reviews, please expand your search range in the Miscellaneous Options section of the search form. To find all reviews conducted in the last 60 months, click here.|Find-a-Wine|
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NORMAL, Ill. -- Normal Parks and Recreation officials say vehicular traffic will not be able to access the back portion of Fairview Park, beginning Thursday, January 24.
That part of the park will be blocked off because an excavation group taking out the bridge across the creek.
Park officials say patrons may still reach the tennis courts and skate park by foot and by crossing the footbridge near the overflow parking lot west of the pool.
The work is expected to take several months.


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'Lunja' | Stretch Cotton Jeans by BOSS Orange
Model Lunja Ankle Zip 50259148 Bright Blue
DetailsZip fly with distinct logo button closure
Medium wash with fading
Logo welt detail on back waist
Five-pocket styling
Stretch cotton
DescriptionThese slim fit jeans by BOSS Orange are crafted from cotton with a hint of stretch for comfort. The medium wash and five-pocket styling make them the perfect fit for a pair of bold shoes.
Model is 5'9" with a 34" bust, 25" waist, 35" hips and is wearing size 26.
Material & care
Material information: 98 % Cotton, 2% Elastane
Machine Wash Cold Gentle, Do Not Bleach, Iron Medium Heat, Reduced Dry Clean, Do Not Tumble Dry


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Quick Links
Celebrate 100! – The B.I.G.* Event
* Believe In Girls
Girl Scouts of San Jacinto Council invites you to an exciting event to celebrate the 100th Anniversary of Girl Scouts with our girl and adult membership and the community. Join us for our Celebrate 100 – The B.I.G.* Event! Take part in an all-day celebration that promotes everything that is cool about being a girl at the George R Brown Convention Center, Saturday September 29, 2012 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
This is an event for girls, their families and friends as well as volunteers and the community to experience the wide range of activities our Council provides. The B.I.G.* Event is a BIG deal!
BIG doesn't only refer to the size of the event. B.I.G. stands for Believe In Girls. We're hosting this event to celebrate a milestone in our Girl Scout history, and because we believe in the GIRLS of today!
Here's an invitation from our Girl Planning Board! - Invitation to The B.I.G. Event
1. Buy a ticket to the event! Plan on using your product sale profits to pay a portion of the tickets.
How to buy tickets to The BIG Event
The ticket will be an official event wristband.
The B.I.G.* Event wristbands are now available for purchase at the Houston Girl Scout Shop in the Program Place for Girls, 3000 Southwest Freeway, during regular shop hours. $15 per wristband.
Monday - Friday 9 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Saturday 9 a.m. - 1 p.m.
Wristbands can be purchased using GSSJC's online event registration process through Sunday, September 23rd.
Troop/group leaders can register each girl and adult on the troop's roster just as they would for a Council event. Wristbands from these purchases will be held @ 'Will Call' on the 2nd floor of the convention center on the day of the event. These orders have been pre-paid, so the waiting time in our alphabetized 'Will Call' lines should be at a minimum.
Click Here to Buy Tickets Online
Wristbands will be sold for $15 each at the event at our Registration booth on teh 2nd floor of the convention center (north end). The event will be held in Exhibit Hall 3A, on the 3rd floor, beginning at 10 a.m.
1. Wristbands are like cash. Do not lose them.
2. There are no refunds for The B.I.G.* Event wristbands unless the event is cancelled.
3. Children under the age of three do not need a wristband. Children age four and above must have a wristband to enter and participate in the event.
4. Have extra wristbands? Feel free to sell them to troops/groups in your service unit, friends or family members interested in attending who have not yet purchased their wristbands.
5. Once the wristband has been used, it cannot be 'shared' with another person.
What will girls find at The BIG Event?
With over a hundred booths of girl-focused activities, here's what the GIRLS can expect to do:
Face painting, make a SWAP, recycled crafts, hockey floor game, cards for soldiers, temporary tattoos, finger weaving, trying on old GS uniforms and posing for a photo op, ring toss, rhythmic cup game, sleeping bag relay, self defense skill building, learning about Braille, leaf rubbings, hula hoops, how to fold the US flag, making butterflies, African games & collective weaving project, learn about the GS Awards, anti-bullying activities, GS Law matching game, bean bag toss, sleeping bag relay game, learning trail signs, bandana fun, hopscotch, human chair, turning old t-shirts into cool things, paper bead making, origami, sew heart pillow, experiencing disabilities, learning about service opportunities, string games, GS Trivia Jeopardy game, friendship bracelets, honor our soldiers, Chinese jump rope, thank someone, learn about potential & kinetic energy, make a hair ornament braid, practice stacking wood for camp fires…
Make a wax hand… pose for a magazine cover photo shoot… shoot hoops, make a bracelet… learn about some very cool careers from our special guests… exchange SWAPS with other Girl Scouts… be mesmerized by a magician… and end the day with a dance celebration!
No Girl Scout event is complete without an act of service. Our Girl Planning Board has selected two worthwhile organizations and invites everyone attending The B.I.G. Event to donate an item or two. Start collecting now!
We are collecting 3 specific items for Cypress Cares:
1) Decks of Playing Cards, 2) Travel-size packs of Baby Wipes, and 3) Lip Balm for chapped lips
We are collecting 3 specific items for the Humane Society:
1) Hand Sanitizer, 2) Leashes/Collars, and 3) Towels (used, clean towels are acceptable)
- B.I.G. Event Schedule of Events
- Hints for making Sept 29th a GREAT day
- Who else is coming to The B.I.G. Event?
- B.I.G. Event FAQs - Updated 09/17/2012
This event is open to the public, so join us and discover the great things that can happen when you believe in girls!
Have questions regarding our 100th Anniversary celebrations? Email firstname.lastname@example.com or
call 713-292-0369.


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Tim Hortons Premium Blend
Different ways to enjoy Tim Hortons Coffee.
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Amazing prizes make your favorite coffee even better!
Every coffee tells a story, what's yours?
Double double? We've always got a fresh pot on.
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Always fresh baked snacks for any occasion. Like now.
Bagged or steeped, there's always time for a cuppa.
Cool off with a world famous Iced Capp and more.
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Enjoy the Tims Hortons taste you love at home!
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Who wants what? Coffee runs made easy!
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Introducing new dark roast coffee. Get into the dark.
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We'll continue to focus on providing top quality products, great service and maintaining strong ties in our communities.
After a nationwide vote, the public has crowned Love REESE'S® to Pieces as the $10,000-winning donut! Thank you to everyone who voted.
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Savor the robust flavor of our rich new Dark Roast blend, brewed for the coffee lover in everyone.
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© Loudon County Friends Of Animals 2014
Stray Animals vs. Spay & Neuter
The stray cat and dog population in Loudon County could be largely controlled with the responsible actions from all pet owners in getting their animals spayed or neutered. This would stop unwanted breeding of animals when they are "let out" to roam or go to the bathroom. People should report stray animals to the Loudon County Animal Shelter so that they can be removed from this cycle. Contact the animal shelter at (865) 458-5593.
2013 Adoption Results
Loudon County Friends Of Animals is pleased that they were directly involved in saving the lives of over 310 animals in 2013. This included the adoption and rescue of 244 animals from the Loudon County Animal Shelter. We also took into rescue and found homes for many residents needing help rehoming their animals here in Loudon County along with TNR of several local feral colonies.
A group of dedicated volunteers working to rescue the animals that find their way into the shelter system by providing veterinarian care, sterilization and permanent home placement.
We Are Not "The Loudon County Animal Shelter"
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Fleas and Ticks
It is affordable to protect your animals from fleas and tick year round. With the relatively warm winter in our region this year, fleas and ticks are expected to be abundant this year.
Did you know that Fleas can transmit tapeworms to your pets? This happens when the flea carries the tapeworm larva in it's body and your pet ingests the flea by licking, biting or chewing the pesky insect.
You can protect your animal by using products like Advantage, Advantix, Frontline, or Comfortis. These products can all be purchased at a highly discounted rate through the PPAW (People Promoting Animal Welfare).
The product known as Revolution will kill fleas, flea eggs, ticks, ear mites, round worms, hook worms, mange, and is a preventative for heartworms. This product is unfortunately available by prescription only.
Please visit the PPAW website for discount pricing information.
Spay and Neuter Program
Did you know that there is a low cost spay and neuter facility right here in our own backyard? Well we do, it is called PPAW, short for People Promoting Animal Welfare. They are located at 6869 Morganton Road in Greenback, TN.
Not only is PPAW a low cost spay and neuter facility, they offer discounted fees for low income families through various grants from local charities and sponsorship programs such as PetsMart.
Please visit the PPAW website for more info and specific pricing.


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Meta Pop
Popular culture's influence on our world, our lives and ourselves.
The catch-all phrase that, by definition, encompasses the aspects of modern life that are known to the majority of individuals within a society, Pop Culture, identifies and defines the ideas, persons and objects of modern iconography. 'Meta Pop' reflects these cultural icons back on us, a revealing of contemporary attitudes, priorities and social mores as seen through the very objects that define mass culture.
Curator: Matt McKinley


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Hanging out in the Huduoh
Duirng training one Tuesday night I was informed upon arriving home that myself and my Mongolian family needed to go to the hudouh (countryside). I told them all that I couldn't, because I had Mongolian dance practice, but they were not budging. So, I skipped dance class to head to the hudouh with the fam.
The entire event, was disastrous from the start. We stopped on the way out of town, to get gas...which for some reason made the car smell like gasoline the entire hour and half ride. Also, the driver hit a curb on the way out of town, so we had a flat tire the whole time. Approximately every 5-10 kilometers, we'd pull over, look at the tires, get back in the car, and carry on. We continued our trek, flat tire and all, without changing it or fixing the issue. The car continued to scrape on the ground, and at one point, I'm fairly certain we lost some piece of car metal behind us.
We spent maybe 45 minutes to an hour at the ger (small tent house) in the hudouh, and then piled in the car to head home. After driving about 5 km, the driver turns around to go back to the ger to FINALLY change the tire. We all pile back into the car about 30 minutes later to head home, again...happy and ready!
After driving for about a half hour, the driver discovers we're lost in the hudouh. Being lost in the hudouh is NOT like being lost in the states. There are NO lights, no gas stations to pullover and ask for directions, no street names/sign...actually, no real streets for that matter. My host dad and the driver continued to get out of the car look around, get back in, drive ten feet, and repeat for about 20 minutes before calling it a loss. Calling it a loss=sleeping in the car until day break...which is exactly what occurred.
My family looked at me, and simply said, "Oont (sleep)." A seemingly easy task, was anything but simple. We were in a 5 person car, piled full with 8 people and 2 goats that smelled absolutely awful. The driver had an horribly disgusting cough---and covering one's mouth is most certainly not practiced here. It was COLD and storming outside, but hotter than imaginable in the packed car. I had half my body size of room in which to sleep, and then the driver decided to recline, just to make my spacial region even more comfortable. When I'd finally fall asleep, something inevitably would happen: the 2 year old in the front would need to go outside to go to the bathroom, the driver would have a coughing fit, the goats would freak out and try to start standing (flopping like fish out of water) and baaaahing extremely loudly in my ear, or someone would get hot and have to crack a door. Between sleeping next to the goats, and behind Sicky McSickerson, I considered myself super-human for not winding up sick. It was extremely hot in the vehicle, but since it was cold outside my host family would consistently try to cover me up with camel wool jackets. It was like sleeping in the monkey cage at the zoo, simultaneously to sleeping in an inferno, simultaneously to sleeping at the bottom of a doggy pile. Needless to say, the night was restless.
Every time everyone woke up at the same time, my host family would ask me, "Yadachs no? (Are you tired?)". Ummm, YES I was tired, it's was 5 am and I had yet to sleep!
At 5:30, the sun started to peak through the rain and clouds...enough to light the road anyway, and we were off! We pulled up to a random ger, and spent the next 15 minutes asking how to find/get to our town.
We finally arrived back at our house at 6:30 in the morning (I had to be up for language class at 8:30). My ger was completely flooded from the monsoon the night before, because the tops of gers have flaps that open and close, and mine had been open for 12 hours of torrential downpours. I ignored it...cold and wet I climbed into my sleeping bag for 2 hours of sleep. While sitting in the car among my host family and the goats, during the shenanigans that equaled one of the most tiring ridiculous nights of my life, I couldn't help but smile. Ordinarily, in the states, I assume I would have been angry or frustrated. But, in Mongolia, I smiled at the thought of my life. The fact that there I was in the middle of nowhere Mongolia, sleeping with 8 people and 2 goats. Thank you Peace Corps for allowing us to live lives that are the polar opposite of dull.


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Doing Nothing
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: St Paul, MN
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STICKS - Buying Guide and Advice
I wrote these articles to answer a lot of common questions I saw and to bookmark my thoughts on the matter. Read through these and feel free to ask any questions!
Choosing a Hockey Stick
Introduction and Handedness
Materials and Construction
Size and Length
Flex and Kickpoint
Curve and Lie
Taping and Customization
Additional Thoughts
High End Sticks
When we say "get a clearance high end stick", we're talking about these.
I've tried to give an approximate kickpoint location for each stick but some are tricky. Low and mid are pretty self-explanatory. Mid-low are usually sticks that don't have much of an engineered kick point (i.e. they are constant flex).
Nexus 8000 (mid)
Vapor AX2 (high+low)
RBZ Stage 2 (mid-low)
Mako II (mid-low), V9 (low)
RIBCOR (low)
EK15 (low)
Dynasty AX1 LT (mid), Covert DT1 LT (low)
Total One NXG (mid), ONE.9 (mid), Nexus 1000 (high+low)
RBZ (mid-low)
Mako (mid-low), M5 (mid-low) Stealth RS II (low)
20k (low)
T100 (low)
Covert DT1 (low), Dynasty AX1 (mid)
Vapor APX (low), Vapor 7.0 (low)
U+ Crazy Light (low)
Stealth RS (low)
Ai9 (mid)
Nexon N12 (low)
Widow (low), Dynasty (mid-low)
Total One (mid)
U+ Octo Light (low), U+ Pro (low)
EQ50 (mid-low), ST (mid-low)
11k (low)
Dolomite DD (mid-low)
Vapor X:60 (low)
U+ CL (low)
Stealth S19 (low)
8.0.8 (mid)
T90 (mid-low)
Kronik (mid-low), Dolomite Spyne (mid-low), Dolomite (mid-low)
Pattern Equivalency Chart
These aren't 100% but for the most part should be pretty close.
Very Open
Slight Open
Hossa, Tavares
Slight Open
Very Open
Last edited by Jarick: 04-10-2014 at
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Doing Nothing
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There's something alluring about the hockey stick that makes it more than just a tool. Maybe it's the amount of time spent preparing them for battle, maybe it's the wide variety of sticks on the market, and maybe it's just because it separates hockey from figure skating. Hockey players love their sticks and some of them could talk shop for hours.
I frequently see questions online such as, "What stick should I get?", "How important is flex?", "What type of curve can help my shots?", and "Are $200 sticks worth the money?" Being a tinkering kind of guy, I've tried probably dozens of sticks, shafts, blades, and accessories to help my shot. I haven't been thrilled with what I've seen out there in terms of explaining what to use and why, so I will give it my best.
The most important thing to keep in mind is that no stick in the world will make you a dramatically better hockey player, but using the wrong stick can hurt your shooting, passing, and confidence. Experience is the best teacher, so if you can, borrow a teammate's stick, find a store that lets you take some shots, or buy and trade used sticks, blades, and shafts. That way you will find the stick that suits your needs. And when you find that stick, practice!
What you don't want to do is buy a $200 stick without knowing exactly what you want and need. When you cut it down and tape it up, it's worth about half that much, and you don't want to be stuck with a stick that hurts your game.
The first thing you want to consider when buying a stick, which way should I shoot? Most of us already know, but for a beginner or a kid just starting out, it's a valid and important question.
In hockey terms, a right-handed shooter holds the butt end of the stick in his left hand and the shaft in his right. A left-handed shooter holds the butt end of the stick in his right hand and the shaft in his left. So a lefty's stick blade is on his left side, and a righty's stick blade is on his right.
Because about 9 of 10 people are right-handed, we should expect the same to carry over in the hockey world, right? Actually, most NHL players are left handed. Why is this? It's because the top hand controls most of the movement of the stick in shooting, stickhandling, and poke checking. If you are right-handed in writing, eating, whatever, and you place that dominant hand on the top of the stick, you'd be left-handed in hockey terms.
So why aren't 9 of 10 hockey players left-handed? Because most of us grew up and were taught to play a certain way, how to hold a stick, or just became comfortable shooting one way or another. And once we start down that path, it's almost impossible to change direction.
My advice to parents who are just starting to teach their kids to play, select a stick with as straight a blade as possible and let them try and figure out which way to shoot. If they don't have a preference, encourage them to try it both ways. Great hockey players throughout history have shot both ways, so it's not going to make or break them.
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Materials and Construction
The first time I went to buy a hockey stick as an adult, I walked into a shop and saw thousands of them in racks. There were a handful of wood models, kind of like the ones I used as a mite, but far more colorful composite sticks just like the pros used, which were of course very expensive. I settled on a bright green composite with a separate blade, kind of like the aluminum one I used when I had last played. There were several different curves, so I just picked one that looks like a "normal" hockey curve. Of course, it turned out to be a cheap fiberglass shaft with a plastic blade that wasn't meant for ice hockey.
This is possibly the same thought conundrum that greets many new or returning players. Lots of confusing sticks that all look similar, aside from the colors, along with a wide disparity of prices. What I'd like to do is go through the basic stick types and explain the pros and cons of each.
Wood Sticks
The basic wood stick has been around forever, and it's likely the stick many of us used as a kid. The popularity is dwindling way down among professionals on down to recreational players, which is a shame because a good wood stick is a lot of fun to play with, and should be the stick of choice for any new or young hockey player.
Wood sticks vary in construction based on price. The cheapest wood sticks are simply a piece of wood with a blade glued onto the end. These are inexpensive and usually very heavy, not recommended unless you only plan on playing a few times.
Better sticks will have a lightweight core wood with several thinner layers of a heavier wood on the outside for durability and blades wrapped in fiberglass for strength. These sticks are a great choice for recreational players and kids, as they are still inexpensive but will hold up much better and tend to be lighter in weight.
Expensive wood sticks may have fiberglass or carbon in the construction and laminated wood blades for increased stiffness and durability. These are only recommended for very strong adults as they are far too stiff for most of us to use.
Aside from the low cost, wood sticks typically have tremendous puck feedback. When you catch a pass, vibrations are dampened, and you feel the puck settled on your blade. Hard passes almost seem to stick to the blade due to the additional weight. This is a huge benefit to newer players, who are still developing the ability to catch passes and handle the puck.
Unfortunately, as great as a fresh wood stick feels, they have a tendency to lose their strength very quickly. With the constant force and abuse of the puck and ice, they weaken and eventually shots will stray off target and lose velocity. The blades themselves absorb the moisture of the snow and go soft as well as develop cracks. While a newer player may use the same wood stick for several months, an elite player could potentially go through several sticks in a single game. The stronger the player, the quicker the stick wears out.
In short, I like a wood stick for young players and new players. When the player has built up enough strength and has a good understanding of shooting technique, it's possible to gain benefits from a composite stick.
Composite Sticks
Making up the bulk of stick sales the last several years, one-piece composite sticks are the way of the future. They are so named because they are usually made of a composite of materials such as graphite, fiberglass, Kevlar, and occasionally other materials as well. The ratio of these materials determines the performance, weight, and durability of the stick, as well as the price.
The cheapest composite sticks have a high fiberglass to graphite ratio, which gives high durability to slashes but poor performance. They bend and return to shape slowly, which takes speed off the shot, and often will have poor feel for the puck. They also tend to be very heavy, sometimes as heavy as a wood stick. The only advantage they have over wood is increased durability, but the higher price, poor puck feel, and lack of performance means I would not recommend them for any player.
High-end composite sticks are made exclusively of graphite, which is lighter and snaps back to shape quicker than fiberglass. These are the sticks of choice for most elite players due to their light weight and quick release. While these sticks have excellent performance, they are very susceptible to breakage, and often manufacturers will add layers of Kevlar to the shaft to prolong their life.
In addition to these ends of the spectrum, there are a number of sticks to hit various price points between them. Generally, the more expensive the stick, the more graphite and less fiberglass, resulting in lighter weight and higher performance. But even the best of these price point sticks can vary quite a bit from the highest end sticks due to construction differences.
Since the introduction of the composite stick, players have complained about the lack of puck feel. A lightweight, hollow shaft combined with a very stiff blade means a lot of vibration is transferred into the player's hands, which can muddle puck feedback for newer players. And that same stiff blade that transfers energy so well into shots will make hard passes bounce right off, unlike the dampening effect of wood. Some manufacturers will have a blade core of foam, silicone, or other materials on high-end sticks to recreate the wood feel. Again, this is another advantage to the expensive composite sticks.
Overall, composite sticks have the potential to allow a player to shoot quicker and harder as well as last much longer. I'd advise against a cheap stick for any player, as the poor puck feel, heavier weight, and lack of performance benefits compared to a wood stick aren't worth it in my opinion. But it's very easy to find high end sticks at lower prices as manufacturers are always pushing new products to market and closing out older models. That's the best value for your average player.
Shafts and Blades
Although very popular in the later 1990's, the shaft and blade two-piece stick is becoming less prevalent. This is unfortunate, because the majority of the benefits of one-piece sticks can be recreated with a proper combo, typically with a cost savings in the long-run. Players that tend to wear out and crack blades can replace them at 1/3 the cost of a new stick, and player that tend to snap shafts can replace them at 1/2 the cost of a new stick.
There are two basic kinds of shafts: standard and tapered. A standard shaft has the same size opening at both ends (for senior models, anyway), while the tapered shaft narrows at one end to accept a blade (more on this in a later article). It's important to match the correct shaft and blade as one will not fit with the other. Because manufacturers don't sell as many two-piece sticks as they do one-piece, most of the models carry over from year to year and lag the performance and innovation of one-piece sticks by several years. There are fewer price point models as well.
A two-piece stick allows players to fine-tune their rig by mixing and matching manufacturers. If you prefer the feel of an Easton blade and the kick of a Warrior shaft, you can use them together. You can combine a wood blade with a high-end tapered shaft and get tremendous puck feel with the quick release of a composite stick. And if you don't like a particular curve, you can swap it in just a few minutes.
The downside of the two-piece is the weight and balance. The blades have a long tenon that fits inside the shaft, which adds mass and weight near the end of the stick. While this might not be a lot of additional weight, adding it to the very end of a long shaft will move the center of mass far down away from the hands, which dramatically affects the balance of weight, and might impact puck handling. Additionally, manufacturers tend to innovate their one-piece models and simply carry over their older shafts and blades, so you will likely not be able to use the latest and greatest technology.
As you can probably tell, I'm a fan of the shaft and blade two-piece stick. I usually buy high-end tapered shafts that are slightly used for about 1/3 the price of retail, put in my favorite blade, and end up with a stick that has nearly all the performance at less than half the cost of a one-piece. For intermediate and recreational players, they have the best performance and value.
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Stick Size
Sticks come in four main sizes:
- for very young players, typically under 8 years old and 4' tall
- for younger players from about 8 to 12 years old or until they're about 4'9 tall
- for teenagers or adults under about 5'6"
- for adults or teenagers over about 5'6"
How do you determine which stick size is right for you? Typically you can grab a stick off the shelf, measure it's height with the tip of the blade resting on the floor, and if it's between your mouth and eyebrows, it's likely in the right area. You may have to cut the stick a few inches or add an end plug of a few inches length (for composite sticks) to get your preferred height, but it should start out around that area.
How long of a stick should you use? The short answer is whatever you find the most comfortable, but there is a thought process behind this. The traditional recommendation for hockey players is to cut the stick off at the chin in skates or at the bottom of the nose in bare feet. This is a good starting place for most players.
There are benefits to shorter and longer sticks. Short sticks mean the puck is carried closer to the body, which helps players who like to carry the puck. It's also easier to control the stick as there is less distance between the blade and hands. Skilled forwards typically have a shorter stick for these reasons. A longer stick obviously helps players grab loose pucks and poke check further from the body. It can also help put more power on shots as a hockey stick acts like a lever when shooting. This is why you often see defensemen and checking forwards using longer sticks.
Here's a wonderful video about stick length:
Of course this doesn't take into account blade lie, a player's skating style, and how a player shoots. Most hockey players use a stick cut higher than their collarbone. But it's still fun to see how an old time hockey coach like Howie Meeker does it.
Finally, keep in mind that it's always easier to cut a hockey stick down that it is to make it longer. With composites, you can put an end plug in the stick which does change how it feels (more on that later), but with wood sticks you are stuck with that length!
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Doing Nothing
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To me, flex is one of the most important factors of stick selection. It's roughly defined as the stiffness of the shaft, or how difficult it is to bend. When you are shooting a puck, you generate strength from your forward momentum and body weight, rotation of the legs and trunk, push-pull mechanism of the upper body, and wrist snapping. With a very stiff shaft, a lot of this energy is lost, and the puck loses quite a bit of velocity. A flexible shaft allows you to store that energy in the shaft, which coils up like a spring, and then release the energy for a harder shot.
Wood sticks tend to be very stiff, one of the big drawbacks for shorter players like myself. Composite sticks are offered in a variety of flexes, typically 50 flex for juniors, 60-70 flex for intermediate, and 75-100 flex and above for senior sticks.
When selecting a stick, you should test the flex in the store. First, here's how you DO NOT test the flex: DO NOT grab a stick off the shelf and push down on it as hard as you can to see just how much you can get it to flex. This can snap the stick in half, and unless you want a $200 wall decoration, I'd recommend against it. Even if it doesn't snap the stick, it can create tiny stress fractures and weaken the stick for a future buyer. Just don't do it. How you SHOULD test the flex is to hold the stick as you would when taking a wrist shot, and push down slightly with your bottom hand while pulling up slightly with your top. If the stick flexes about an inch or so under light stress, it's a proper flex. If you really need to push and pull, it's too stiff. If it feels very soft and flimsy, it's too whippy.
There's a rule of thumb that says you should select a stick flex that is half your weight. This is likely incorrect, because it fails to take into account height and body composition. A hockey stick acts as a lever, with the bottom hand the fulcrum. The longer the stick, the more torque you can apply, and the easier it is to flex. Let's take two players who weigh 170 pounds, one 5'6" and the other is 6'4". Using the half-the-weight rule, they get 85 flex sticks. The stick comes up to the chin of the 6'4" player in skates, whereas the other player needs to cut 8" off to have it come up to his chin in skates. The short player now has a stick with an effective flex of about 120 flex!
Instead, I like to base the flex of a stick from the player's height, assuming average build and strength:
~ 5'0: 50 flex
~ 5'6: 65 flex
~ 5'9: 75 flex
~ 6'0: 85 flex
~ 6'3: 100 flex
When you cut down a hockey stick, you will make the stick feel stiffer, and it changes by roughly 3-6% for each inch you cut it down. A low kickpoint stick will feel like it changes less, and senior sticks will change less than a junior stick. Again, if you use a longer or shorter stick than average, you may need a higher or lower flex. If you're very muscular or very thin, you might need a higher or lower flex. Alex Ovechkin and Brian Rolston are about about 6'2 and 215-220, yet Ovechkin uses an 80 flex stick and Rolston a 120 flex because they prefer a different feel and play a different style game.
A lot of talk about hockey sticks nowadays is about the kickpoint, and many players are looking for a stick that has the lowest kickpoint possible. Every manufacturer claims to have ultra low kickpoint sticks to attract customers. So what is a kickpoint and is it really that important?
The kickpoint of a stick is roughly defined as the area where the stick tends to flex most. A standard non-tapered shaft has a uniform thickness along its length, which means it will bend right in the middle of the shaft. That is referred to as a mid-kickpoint. Alternately, a tapered shaft or stick narrows at the blade end, which makes the material easier to flex or bend. This is a low-kickpoint shaft.
When you flex a hockey stick, you apply force to the walls of the shaft, which compress and store energy like a spring. With a low-kickpoint stick, the bottom portion of the shaft near the blade is the first part to bend and compress, which means it loads up for a shot quickly and releases that shot quickly. A low-kickpoint stick can benefit players who shoot quickly mid-stride, especially those who take wrist and snap shots. Mid-kickpoint sticks tend to flex higher on the shaft near the bottom hand. More of the shaft can bend and store energy, which gives the potential for a higher velocity shot, although at the expense of release time as the blade has more distance to travel to return to shape. A mid-kickpoint stick can benefit players who take slap shots and one-timers.
More importantly than velocity and release is the feel of the stick when loading and shooting. Sheldon Souray and Zdeno Chara have devastating slap shots, but one prefers low- and the other prefers mid-kickpoint sticks. Alex Ovechkin and Marian Hossa both have lightning quick release, but one prefers mid- and the other prefers low-kickpoint sticks. This is one of those matters that is personal preference and best if you can borrow a teammate's stick for a few shots.
Last edited by Jarick: 03-13-2012 at
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By now, hopefully you've got a good idea of what you're after in terms of selecting the right type and size of stick, along with the flex that will maximize your shot potential. The last component of selecting a stick is the curve of the blade. There are many components of the blade that need to be taken into account when selecting the perfect curve for your game.
The lie of the blade corresponds to the angle between the stick and the ice when the middle of the blade is flat on the ice. A higher lie makes the stick more vertical while a lower lie makes the stick closer to the ice. It's important to find the right lie for you in order to maximize the amount of blade on the ice, which will allow you to catch passes and shoot the puck easier.
Players who skate with their knees bent and keep low to the ice often like a low lie blade (5 lie or lower). It makes the stick effectively longer, which helps with poke checks and grabbing loose pucks. A high lie (6 lie or higher) is a better choice for players who skate more upright. It allows players to stickhandle close to the body and pull the puck in for shots for added power. Medium lies (5.5 or so) will be somewhere in the middle. Often the lie of the blade will correspond with the length of the stick. Because a short stick places the heel of the blade closer to the body, a higher lie will ensure the blade is flat on the ice. A longer stick places the blade further from the body, so a lower lie keeps the blade flat.
One rule of thumb in determining lie is to examine the tape wear at the bottom of the blade. If the tape is worn out at the heel, you might try a lower lie. If there's a lot of wear at the toe, you might try a higher lie. If the wear is in the middle or even across the bottom, it's probably the right lie for you.
The rocker of a blade is the round or sharp characteristics of the heel. A blade with little to no rocker has a sharp angled heel, which maximizes the amount of blade on the ice at all times. A rockered blade has a smooth curved heel, which plays like a lower lie when stickhandling but a higher lie when shooting. If you skate and stickhandle low to the ice but bring the stick more upright when shooting, a rockered blade might help your game.
Some blades have a rocker near the toe, which makes the lie even higher when shooting off the end of the blade. Players like Brett Hull and Jason Spezza use these rockers, which helps with quick shots from in close to the body. Most retail curves don't have a rockered toe, so it's not something that most players will encounter.
The type or location of the curve indicates where the curve of the blade starts.
Heel curves are a mostly flat blade that curves at the heel. The flatter blade makes passing and backhands easier but puts less spin and velocity on wrist shots. Heel curves are often preferred by players who take mostly slap shots. Retail examples are the Drury and Lidstrom. These are very popular among pro players who have the advanced technique required to control them.
Toe curves are a mostly flat blade that curves near the toe. This can help with toe drags and stickhandling as well as putting a lot of spin and zip on wrist and snap shots, which are often shot off the toe of the blade. Toe curves are often preferred by shooters and stickhandlers. There are no true retail toe curves anymore, although many European players still use them.
Mid curves are between heel and toe and are a good all-around curve. Retail examples are the Sakic, Iginla, and Lindros curves. These are the most popular curves among recreational players as they are easy to learn and control.
The depth of a curve is the amount of curve on the blade. Until the 1960's, all blades were flat, which gave the player excellent passing and the ability to shoot equally well from the forehand and backhand. A flat blade allows the player to be incredibly accurate with passes and shots as the blade is very predictable. Centers who take a lot of draws as well as playmakers who need accurate passing can benefit from a flat blade.
The Chicago Blackhawks with Bobby Hull and Stan Mikita were the first to use a curved hockey blade. They found that the curve made shots unpredictable for the goalies and added velocity. A deep curve can add a lot of spin to the puck, which makes the puck fly like a frisbee, increasing velocity and keeping the puck on target. Too much curve will make backhand shots and passes softer and less accurate.
The face, or loft, of a blade is the angle it is tilted relative to the ice. A blade that twists open and faces upward will raise shots in the air, while a blade that faces forward or is twisted slightly closed will keep pucks low to the ice. If you have trouble raising your shots or keeping them low, picking a curve with a different face can help your game.
A short blade is easy to maneuver and can improve stick handling, while a longer blade gives more surface area to catch passes and grab loose pucks. A longer blade also has a larger sweet spot when shooting and can put more spin on the puck if used with the proper technique. Keep in mind the length of the blade is the primary factor in the weight of the blade, which affects the overall weight and balance of the stick dramatically.
Toe Shape
Most blades have either a rounded or squared toe. A round toe is often preferred by players who handle the puck often and can make toe drags easier. Square toes can help players protect and grab the puck along the boards and are often preferred by defensemen.
Last edited by Jarick: 12-09-2011 at
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So you've got your shiny new stick home...great! Now what?
NHL'ers can spend an hour every day cutting, customizing, and taping up new sticks before every game. Most of us recreational players spend a good amount of time getting our sticks to feel comfortable as well. I've spent way, way more time than I should have customizing my sticks, and here are some things I've learned along the way.
Tools and Equipment
For those of us who enjoy customizing our sticks, there are several tools that make life a lot easier:
- Hacksaw - Any hacksaw will do, just pick up a new blade for it (about $2-3) so it cuts easily.
- Mitre Box - This is a simple box with a line cut in it to make sure cuts are straight. I like the plastic ones you can get for about $5.
- Heat Gun - Hair dryers don't generate enough heat to do the trick. The $20 guns at most hardware stores work just fine.
- Glue Gun - Any cheap glue gun will do the trick, but most new ones that run about $5-7 will heat up a lot quicker.
- Rasp and File - Most hardware stores will sell an 8" rasp/file that is rounded on one side, flat on the other, and bigger and smaller teeth for about $10.
Installing Blades
Putting a new blade into a shaft is simple with the right tools, although there are a few things to keep in mind. First, make sure both are the right size, senior or junior, standard or tapered. Use the heat gun to heat up the shaft, holding it a few inches away, aimed a couple inches from the end, and rotating it slowly. It only needs to be heated for about 10-20 seconds; too much heat can cause the finish to bubble and damage the shaft, which may lead to premature breakage. Once the shaft is heated, insert the blade. New blades often have some glue that can be melted with a heat gun. With used blades, I slide them in 3/4 of the way, then apply a couple lines of hot glue on each side of the tenon, and slide it in the rest of the way. This prevents glue from rattling around inside the shaft (annoying!) and the blade from coming loose.
After the stick has cooled for about 10 minutes, test the fit to see if the blade is too loose. Grab the blade in one hand and the shaft in the other and wiggle. If there is any movement or cracking noise, you should heat the shaft again and remove the blade. Try adding a layer of hockey tape to one of the sides of the tenon (length-wise), which will take up some slack. If it's still loose, add another layer of tape. Anything more than two layers indicates a poor fit and you should use a different blade.
If everything fits properly, remove the excess glue by hand and you're all set.
Cutting Sticks
Once you know how long your stick should be (see the earlier article), it's easy to cut it down to length. Take a piece of hockey tape (contrasting color to the stick) and mark where it needs to be cut. Use a mitre box and hacksaw for a clean, straight edge. When the stick is cut, wipe it down with a damp cloth and gently file the edge to make it smooth.
End Plugs
Chances are you bought a stick that was too long for you and cut it down to length. Those of you who are taller might actually need an extension plug at the end of the stick in order to lengthen the stick to your needs. Any hockey shop will sell a wooden end plug that fits into a senior or junior stick for about $5. Simply install them as you would a hockey blade and cut them down to length.
End plugs can also be used to change the balance of a stick. Recall that a hockey stick is a lot like a lever, and the bottom hand is the fulcrum. Typically you have that bottom hand above the halfway point of the stick. Because of the weight of the blade, it might feel a lot heavier than it actually is. A wood end plug adds weight to the opposite end of the stick, which restores the balance. If you like the length of the stick but want to improve the balance, try cutting the tenon off and inserting it flush with the end of the stick.
A wooden end plug can also change the feel of a stick by dampening vibrations. If a stick feels too lively, try inserting a wood end plug (even if it's only the tenon) into the stick.
With a wood end plug, you can change the shape to suit your hand. If you've got smaller hands, try sanding the end plug with your rasp and file. Some players like an oval shape or even a round wheelbarrow shape. The rounded rasp end works great to cut down the corners, then smooth it out with the flat file end.
Taping the Butt End
Nearly every NHL player has his own unique tape job. Some players like a large knob at the end, some no knob at all. Some players will tape just the knob and others will tape down the entire length of the stick. The best thing to do is to experiment with different tape jobs and see which you prefer.
The classic tape job is simply cloth hockey tape wrapped around the end of the stick to make a knob big enough to fit in the palm comfortably. When the knob size feels right, tape down the stick to add a bit of grip to prevent the hand from sliding down.
To make a ribbed tape job, twist the tape around (sticky side out) to form a rope, wrap the rope down the stick, then tape over it going back up. You can space out the ribs to fit between your fingers, as well as using wider and narrower tape to change the size of the ribs.
The first few times you use a freshly taped stick, the adhesive of the tape might make the knob feel sticky. To fix this, sprinkle a bit of baby powder on a new tape job and rub it into the tape.
Besides regular cloth hockey tape, there is special flex tape that some players prefer. Flex grip tape is a thin mesh that is wrapped over an existing tape job or the stick itself. It doesn't contain sticky adhesive, but the mesh squares are quite a bit grippier than regular tape. Some players find flex grip tape causes too much wear on the palms of their gloves while others believe it causes palms to wear less than cloth tape.
Taping the Blade
Just as many players have a unique tape job on the butt end, blade taping styles vary from player to player. The basic tape job is simply cloth tape that overlaps from heel to toe. Some players will tape the entire blade and some will tape only the middle or only the toe. For beginners, I recommend taping the entire blade to give friction and cushion.
The main purpose of blade tape is to provide friction for the puck. Hockey sticks, especially composite, are quite slippery when wet with snow and ice. A layer of tape provides something for the puck to grab on to, which helps with catching passes and putting spin on the puck while shooting. Different brands of hockey tape have varying amounts of friction, some feeling very smooth and others rough like sandpaper.
Aside from friction of the tape itself, the ridges made by overlapping the tape grip the puck and create additional spin. Using narrower tape (or tape ripped in half) can add more ridges and friction, whereas wider tape will create fewer ridges.
The other purpose of tape is to improve feel for the puck. Composite blades are very hard and stiff, and a layer of tape can provide just a bit of dampening to help catch hard passes. Wrapping the tape closer together will help cushion the puck more, while keeping them spaced apart will give a livelier.
Players who stick handle and use toe drags often tape over the toe to grab the puck. The best way to do this is to wrap the tape around the toe of the blade just as if the blade were longer, then to cut the excess tape with scissors along the toe.
Hockey Wax and Friction Tape
Regular cloth hockey tape absorbs moisture from the snow and ice. In some situations, this can attract snow along the blade and affect feel for the puck. A bit of wax rubbed on to the tape will repel moisture as well as add a bit of grip. The best waxes are specially formulated for cold weather and are available in a solid puck shape. Simply rub the wax on to the tape in order for it to do its job. Some players will rub a very thick layer into the tape then melt it with a heat gun, a lighter, or rub it in with their fingers.
Another option is to use friction hockey tape. This also repels snow and ice and provides additional grip as it is sticky on both sides. It is typically more expensive though and can be difficult to apply.
Changing the Tape
Some players are fanatical about taping their blades, sometimes taping in between periods. Others will tape it once and use it until the stick breaks. There are no rules, but remember that worn hockey tape cannot provide friction for the puck. If you use a wood stick or blade, be sure to remove the tape after every usage to prevent them from rotting and going soft.
Tape Alternatives
Wayne Gretzky was one of the first players to use something other than tape on the end of his stick. He wanted something that could easily be applied and was consistent from stick to stick. There are several products available today that provide an alternative to traditional hockey tape.
Tacki Mac produces grips for the end of the stick made of a rubber material. They are lightly textured and become grippy rather than slippery when wet. I find these produce a much more secure grip than cloth tape as well as wearing glove palms less. The grips are sold with a double sided adhesive tape that is slippery at first and then dries in place. You can also use cheap hairspray such as Aqua Net to secure them (as well as remove pen ink from desks).
Bladetape is a very popular tape alternative for the blade, also made of rubber. It sticks to either side of the blade and provides a texture grip and cushioning for the puck. The manufacturer claims it lasts about 10-15 uses, although users may find it lasts a lot longer or shorter. It does change the feel for the puck as well, improving it for some players' taste and muddling it too much for others.
Although today's hockey sticks are colorful and eye-catching in the store, that same finish can be distracting on the ice. A few NHL'ers will spray paint the bottoms of their sticks white or black. Regular flat finish paint does the trick, just be sure to spray thin, light coats to avoid runs.
Adding Grip
Another common practice among NHL'ers is to add grip to hockey sticks using black tape. To do this, find a spare wood end plug or a section of hockey stick. Wrap black tape around it with the sticky side out and rub this along the sides of the shaft until you're satisfied with the amount of grip. If you want to clean it off, some Goo Gone on a rag does a great job.
Last edited by Jarick: 12-09-2011 at
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Musings about Stick Length, Flex, Lie
With the coming hockey season, people are gearing up, and obviously you want a new twig. For beginners, in my opinion,
there are two crucial mistakes made way too often
- their stick is too stiff
- their stick is too long
They kind of play in to each other. Lots of beginners grab the cheapest composite they can find off the wall and tape it up. They don't look at the flex or cut it to length. Most of these guys are under 6' and use 85-100 flex sticks.
They couldn't break a pane of glass with their shot
These guys for the most part can't carry a puck, can't protect it, can't make quick moves with it. It's because
their top hand is knocking into their body, preventing them from moving the puck freely
. And keeping that puck further and further away makes for clumsy stickhandling and poor passes (imagine using a 20' long stick, it would be difficult to control the puck).
Also the shots aren't very good. With great technique, a long stick can let you use a stiffer flex and add a lot more power to the shot. But for the most part
these guys are swatting at the puck or making glorified passes
. It's no wonder most of their goals come from backdoor plays and what not.
If they used a shorter stick with some flex, they'd be able to use the whip of the stick, speed up the release, get on top of the puck, and get some velocity on their shots. One of my teammates is 5'6 maybe 140 soaking wet. He was using an 87 flex chopped way down. I gave him one of my 67 flex sticks, same curve and slightly shorter length.
His shots damn near doubled in speed
. He picked up an intermediate the next day and has greatly improved all aspects of the game.
Now the caveat.
Not everyone needs to use a shorter stick. If you have good puck control and technique, you can use a longer stick. Look at Marian Hossa or Pavel Datsyuk. Datsyuk used to use short sticks when he came into the league but made them longer and longer. He's possibly the best puck handler in the world and breaks the above rule, because he's so damn good. He can use the longer reach without suffering.
Defensemen often use long sticks too. Jared Spurgeon, a 20 year old 5'8 defenseman who made the Wild last year as a rookie and did a damn good job, uses a stick taller than he is (I'm the same height and checked out some of his game used sticks). He's not all-world like Datsyuk but he's better than a lot of NHL defensemen with the puck.
On to stick flex, once you cut down the stick, you'll need a whippier flex. Yeah I can use an 85 flex stick at full length at 5'8, but chop it down and it needs to be 70 flex.
It's my opinion that 90% of your stick flex needs are determined by your stick length, not weight
. It's because the more you cut a stick, the stiffer it gets. Proportionally, a lot of players use similar flexes once you account for length and original flex. I did a survey over at Mod Squad Hockey of over 70 players and the overwhelming majority of guys used a predictable flex for their stick length.
That's why I usually recommend:
5'6 - 65 flex
5'9 - 75 flex
6'0 - 85 flex
6'3 - 100 flex
This assumes you
chop the stick down to 1-2" below the chin, which should be the shortest you'd need to go to get full puck control
. If you can use a longer stick and give up some of that puck control, you could use a little stiffer stick.
For lie, it depends on your playing style. If you shoot the puck a lot with good technique, you'll probably want 5.5-6 lie. That's because you want the puck closer to your body to get more power on your shots, and that means a higher lie. If you're a passer you'll probably want a 5 lie or less. You'll want to be able to make moves with the puck further away from you. The closer to your body you play with the puck (shooting, playing on the boards, etc), the higher lie you need.
Don't pick lie based on stick length, pick it based on your playing style
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The video doesn't work and I think Warrior offers some Int. Sticks in a 55 flex. Also, It'd be nice to see a section on puck control.
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Great Read. Thanks.
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I love this guide, but I will also offer this caveat for women, particularly beginners. Given that we have less proportional upper body strength than men, you need an even lower flex than men of your height. I saw a huge difference when i went from a 70 flex intermediate that was, admittedly, too long to a 50 flex (the tallest junior stick I could find - I'm 5'4 and this comes up to my lips in bare feet).
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pretty good....arnt your pics of the blade "faces" backwards though?
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What hockey stick should I buy?
Any advice for what hockey stick I should buy? And cost? More for casual games than serious leagues so I'm not really looking for NHL calibre.
What I'm looking for
-good for snap/wrist shots
-light and mobile, great for dangling
-medium-long reach
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I picked up an Easton EQ30 about a month ago and I love it. It's not a "high end" stick by any means but if you are a casual player the performance is just fine. Plus, if something stupid happens and it breaks (someone stomps on the blade during a face-off, etc.) and it breaks, it won't be too painful on the wallet to replace.
I find the stick seems to be rather durable and the blade is of pretty high quality for the price point. Also, it doesn't vibrate like some people have said some mid range sticks do.
Just my 2 cents
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Originally Posted by
Any advice for what hockey stick I should buy? And cost? More for casual games than serious leagues so I'm not really looking for NHL calibre.
What I'm looking for
-good for snap/wrist shots
-light and mobile, great for dangling
-medium-long reach
What sticks have you used before? I would recommend either a Bauer Supreme One60 or Vapor X4.0. Personally, I like the P88 (Kane) curve, it's got a slight open face which helps get some nice loft on your shots.
Reach shouldn't be a concern, all sticks are more or less the same length off the rack.
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Originally Posted by
What sticks have you used before? I would recommend either a Bauer Supreme One60 or Vapor X4.0. Personally, I like the P88 (Kane) curve, it's got a slight open face which helps get some nice loft on your shots.
Reach shouldn't be a concern, all sticks are more or less the same length off the rack.
I use the P88 curve with the Supreme OnePro. Decent stick for the price, but is worth it when you use 15 sticks a season. It's good for snappers and wristers. Quite good for backhands too. I can't shoot the slappers that I used to. Or I can at least not rise the shots as well as I could with for an example P92 or 19.
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depending on when you live you should look om Kijiji.ca or Craigslist. lots and i mean LOTS of semi-pro and junior/college players sell pro stock sticks for average around $100. If you were going to buy one from teh store for around or over that you should look for these instead. I got 3 RBK 11K's for $250, one of them is around $260 retail.
the description you gave is more about flex than the stick type. all high end sticks are light and easy to manuver. you want more whip go with a 65-85flex, if you want stiff or you are a heavy guy go with 95-110 flex.
also remember that every 1" you cut off a stick increase teh flex by 10
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I really hope you've read this before posting, there are so many duplicate topics out there about the exact same thing that you could do a search and at least one thread will address your every need.
If you have any more specific questions about sticks, go ahead, but for general inquiries like that, best to use resources already available.
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Thanks to everyone who has helped. The semipro sticks are something I'll really have to look into. I'm too small for major junior(about St. Louis's size or maybe a little bigger
). So the heavier sticks aren't for me and slapshots aren't a focus.
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Bauer Vapor X40 or 4.0 I can't remember. See if you could find a one80. They're a year old in the product line but feel just as light as One 100's.
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Originally Posted by
Thanks to everyone who has helped. The semipro sticks are something I'll really have to look into. I'm too small for major junior(about St. Louis's size or maybe a little bigger
). So the heavier sticks aren't for me and slapshots aren't a focus.
it would help if you gave a price range(and specify CAN$ or US$, big difference).
i find Sherwood's current nexon line to be a great bang for the buck.
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Price really isn't an issue.
Of course since it's casual I'd prefer not to spend too much since it's probable it breaks eventually. Realistically I'd like to keep it as cheap as possible since I'd expect it to break but anything under $1000 would be fine.
Though I don't expect to spend nearly that much unless I'm playing in a professional league(which I probably won't be).
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Originally Posted by
Price really isn't an issue.
Of course since it's casual I'd prefer not to spend too much since it's probable it breaks eventually. Realistically I'd like to keep it as cheap as possible since I'd expect it to break but anything under $1000 would be fine.
Though I don't expect to spend nearly that much unless I'm playing in a professional league(which I probably won't be).
Was that a typo, and you actually meant under $100? There are no sticks that cost even remotely close to $1000 (unless you're talking about having a company make a custom curve for you and including the mold fees, but that's incredibly rare). Absolute top of the line sticks are generally around $250, mid range sticks are generally around $100, and low end sticks are generally around $50.
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How long have you been playing?
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If you have the money, get the pretty one.
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Team Jake by TeamJake - about 7 years ago
"Our youngest son has Apraxia. Apraxia is a breakdown in the transmission of messages from the brain to the muscles in the jaw, cheeks, lip, tongue and palate. He knows what he wants to say, but there is a roadblock obstructing the signal from the brain to the mouth. The muscles ignore, or don't hear, what the brain commands. One in five of every 1,000 children are affected each year. Our older son (5 years old) wanted to raise money for Apraxia Awareness and decided to run in a Toddler Trot. In less than 2 weeks we raised over $20,000. We had a lot of support at the race and the Greatest T Shirt to display our cause!"


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The Road Series
The Off-Road Series
Junior runbristol
The 26th Bristol half marathon will take place on Sunday 21st September 2014. Entry is now open - read the information below then click the link at the top of this page. Please check this page for further information and news.
NB:Participants are advised that:All dogs and wheeled carriages other than wheelchairs (racing chairs only) are banned from the race and athletes must not be accompanied or followed by others on cycles.
Unattached runner: £35. Member of a UKA/England affiliated running club or BTF triathlon individual club athlete places £33.
Member of a UKA/England affiliated running club or BTF triathlon club block bookings: please see below. Elite athlete places free: please see criteria below. Over 60 on race day: £21 (proof of age may be required – if not provided the organisers reserve the right to declare the entry void and any entry fee paid will be retained to cover administration costs).
NB: There will be an on-line processing fee of £3 per person and your place will be allocated and confirmed immediately. Please think carefully before entering as entry fees are not refundable and places in the race may not be transferred to another person.
For any enquiries about the on-line registration or details about the race, please call the Race Hotline 01782 396113 or Email firstname.lastname@example.com
or transfer your place to the Business Challenge:
The Business Challenge is open to teams of employees of any UK registered business, company or corporation. For further information please see the Business Challenge page of this site.
Data Protection: Please note that your contact details will be passed to the Business Challenge sponosor.
If you have already booked an individual place in the race and now wish to take part as a member of a company team we will be happy to transfer your entry (no additional charge) Click here to email your request to email@example.com
Charities wishing to buy Gold Bond places can each request a maximum of 100 places which can be purchased at a cost of £41 per place. Please call the Race Hotline 01782 396113 or Email firstname.lastname@example.com
This offer only applies to UKA/England affiliated clubs or British Triathlon affiliated clubs. Requests from other clubs affiliated to a Governing Body of Sport may be considered but the offer is not open to general sports or recreational clubs.
UKA / BTF clubs wishing to block book places can take advantage of the following deals:
The Club Representative should email FRSystems giving their own name, day time phone number, club name and address plus a spreadsheet of email address for each club member they would like to enter. Once full payment has been received individual access codes will be issued to enter on line without further payment. If athlete names are not yet confirmed, block bookings can be paid for in advance and runner names supplied at a later date. Click here to email your request to firstname.lastname@example.com
Places are reserved for elite athletes. Guide times: Men sub 67.30mins, Women sub 77mins (but we may also consider requests from up-and-coming young athletes). Please send a brief CV with your recent achievements and PB's setting out your case for being given a reserved place to our race administration service who will pass your request on to Bud Baldaro for consideration.Click here to email your request to firstname.lastname@example.com
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From beer to bread, every sale counts during the winter months at Harborside Harvest Market in North Hero.
"We're the closest thing the islands has to a supermarket," said Todd Keyworth, who owns the Harborside Harvest Market.
The store has to be flexible since it makes most of its money three months of the year. But rigid mandates could soon be coming.
Keyworth says he's afraid for his businesses survival if a bill in the Vermont Statehouse passes. The bill would ensure all workers could take paid sick time off from their job.
"We work very closely with our staff; they're an extension of our family," Keyworth said.
Keyworth, like many others, testified before the House Committee on General Housing and Military Affairs Thursday.
The proposed bill would require employers to provide up to 56 hours or seven workdays a year for full-time workers in paid sick time that would be accumulated based on hours worked.
"At some point legislation becomes important because you have to address the need that's driving this," said Lindsay DesLauriers of the Paid Sick Days Coalition.
The Paid Sick Days Coalition is leading this effort for a change in the law. DesLauriers says people are having to make decisions that are impacting public health because they don't have paid sick days.
"When people are going to work sick they're putting other people at risk and sending children to school sick," she said.
Keyworth says he doesn't want his employees showing up sick and works with them to switch their shifts, but paying for sick days would be tough.
"This expense will amount to $8,500 a year for my business," he said. "I make my money selling coffee, bread and milk. That's a significant amount of change, in fact, it's four months of electric bills."
"Seventy-five percent of businesses in the private sector are already providing some form of paid time off, so for the majority of businesses, they won't see an added expense," DesLauriers said.
Harborside Market is one of the 25 percent of businesses in the state that would. And Keyworth says he'd have to consider laying off people to cover the added expense.
Right now there are no federal requirements for paid sick leave.
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