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WALPOLE, Maine (AP) — University of Maine marine scientist Rhian Waller is featured in the March edition of National Geographic magazine.
Waller is described as a risk taker in the ''New Age of Exploration'' piece. An assistant research professor in the School of Marine Sciences, Waller's pressed the limits of diving during more than 40 expeditions around the world.
In a submersible, she plunged to a depth of 3,600 meters for corals on the New England Seamount chain in 2005. Waller frequently scuba dives in temperatures of 35 degrees and colder in the name of science.
Waller's research focuses on how environmental factors such as climate change, fishing and oil exploration affect deep-sea coral ecology and reproduction.
A National Geographic Society yearlong series highlights 21st century explorers who ''press the limits.''


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Posts by Bates News
Published on | Description | |
ThursdayJuly 25, 2013 |
French and Francophone Studies, Fall 2013French is now the Department of French and Francophone Studies (FFS). Our assistant for academic year 2013-14 is Gaëlle Nubul… |
ThursdayJuly 25, 2013 |
European Studies, Fall 2013This is the inaugural year of the college's interdisciplinary program in European Studies. The program's introductory course, European Studies 101,… |
ThursdayJuly 25, 2013 |
Chemistry, Fall 2013The Chemistry department encourages returning students with an interest in majoring in Chemistry, or completing a minor or general education… |
ThursdayJuly 25, 2013 |
Biological Chemistry, Fall 2013Starting this fall, BIO 328 Developmental Biology will be a regular offering for the Biological Chemistry major. Biological Chemistry majors… |
ThursdayJuly 25, 2013 |
Anthropology, Fall 2013Two new colleagues are joining the Anthropology department this year while Val Carnegie and Elizabeth Eames are away on sabbatical… |
ThursdayJuly 25, 2013 |
Changes in Faculty, Fall 2013New faculty appointments for 2013–14 Jennifer Adair, Visiting Professor of History Jessica Anthony, Lecturer in English Ronald Barry, Lecturer in… |
MondayJuly 22, 2013 |
Bates Dance Festival next: Miller offers 'A History'; 'Musicians' Concert' July 31The Bebe Miller Company performs its new "A History" July 26-27. |
ThursdayJuly 18, 2013 |
Corey Harris '91 opens new Concerts on the Quad seriesEnjoy three distinctly different approaches to the blues as Bates presents its new outdoor music series, Concerts on the Quad. |
MondayJuly 15, 2013 |
Varone company brings new and signature works for seventh dance festival visitIn their seventh appearance at the Bates Dance Festival, Doug Varone and Dancers perform stunning new works and their signature piece, 'Rise.' |
WednesdayJuly 10, 2013 |
Nejla Yatkin / NY2Dance opens 2013 Bates Dance Festival with Maine premiereNejla Yatkin / NY2Dance opens the Bates Dance Festival performance series with the Maine premiere of "Oasis" on July 12. |

subset: commoncrawl


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Here is my purple Cardi wrap and Cowl Top. I really wanted one of the Cardi-wraps off Victoria's Secret, but did not want to pay 50.00 or more for it! So i searched online and found instructions for one. It was really easy. For the Cowl top I used the Cowl Dress/Cowl top on burda style by IchiGoGirl.
Bamboo Jersey
Nov 29, 2010, 06.47 AMby leeliliting
Superhero mom with superhero outfit….yeah!!! Can you tell me where you found your wrap pattern and instruction, want to make one for myself…thanks!!
May 21, 2011, 05.08 PMby trploceanmoon
Sorry it has taken me SO LONG to get back on this. School and family consumes me!
Here is the link to the wrap…
Feb 28, 2012, 10.00 AMby dottty
this is just what i have been looking for, and it looks so easy and obvious, many thanks for the link jj:)x………………..your top and cardi look fabulous by the way jj:)x
Oct 19, 2010, 01.07 AMby tradsahm
LOVE the cardigan and top! That is EXACTLY what I want to make for myself! My fabric is waiting for me in a crumpled pile in my bag of "to do" sewing projects. I really need to get on that now! Thanks for the inspiration!
Sep 13, 2010, 04.48 PMby scheryka
I am so agreeing with Lashay. I just bought some purple knit…Darn I shoulda bought more! And those boots sets it off.
Sep 13, 2010, 01.27 PMby larasopija
The outfit looks great!!! The boots are to die for! Luv your work.
Sep 13, 2010, 05.14 AMby cantare
This is so great. Ralph Lauren had a similar cardigan in his line last year…same color too! You're too in trend!
Sep 13, 2010, 12.28 PMby trploceanmoon
Thank you!! :-)
Sep 12, 2010, 10.17 PMby lashay
Girl u look fierce…I love it!!!
Sep 13, 2010, 12.27 PMby trploceanmoon
Thank you Lashay! :-)
Sep 12, 2010, 03.00 PMby kallers
Love it. You look like a superhero in that first picture (with those awesome boots!).
Sep 12, 2010, 03.38 PMby trploceanmoon
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!! love it!! you made me smile! truth be told, I feel like a superhero around my house with all I do each day! hahahahaha
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U.S. & World News Digest
By: Associated Press - Camden News
Death penalty protocol focus of bomb hearing
BOSTON (AP) — Lawyers for Boston Marathon bombing suspect Dzhokhar Tsarnaev will ask a judge to discuss the timeline and procedure for prosecutors to decide whether to seek the death penalty.
A joint status report filed in c...
Published: 09/23/2013
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text: Era 4-H club members and sisters Logan Knabe and Hayley Knabe are fierce competitors with their charolais heifers. Pictured are Logan Knabe, left, and Hayley Knabe of Era High School. Both insist their charolais is the best. Hundreds of Cooke County students showed their projects during the Cooke County Youth Fair. The buyer's luncheon, United Way photo and the premium sale will cap off the fair today.


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Definition of junco in English:
Syllabification: jun·coPronunciation: /ˈjəNGkō
( plural juncos)
- A North American songbird related to the buntings, with mainly gray and brown plumage. See also snowbird.
- Genus Junco, family Emberizidae (subfamily Emberizinae): three or four species
More example sentences- On the lake itself, we mainly saw the same woodpeckers, gulls, goldfinch, robins, waxwings, juncos, and other common birds spotted last year.
- The seeds of this columbine are sought after by small birds, such as song sparrows, juncos, and many others.
- 'We're already seeing robins, goldfinches, juncos and pine siskens,' she said, and staffers have heard a few bluebirds lately.
early 18th century: from Spanish, from Latin juncus 'rush, reed'.


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Contact Us
We love getting feedback from our readers - we'd love to hear what you liked or disliked, what you'd like to see in the future, or simply what you think of IntoMobile. No suggestion or critique is too small or overlooked.
Contact UsNokia Lumia 900 is the first Windows Phone device with LTE connectivity support. In addition, it also comes with 4.3-inch AMOLED WVGA touchscreen, 8-megapixel rear-facing camera with Carl Zeiss optics, 1.3-megapixel front-facing camera, 1.4GHz single-core processor, 16GB of built-in storage, HSPA and Wi-Fi.


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Stevie Wonder broke down and nearly cried in the middle of a major televised performance -- and it was all because of Michael Jackson.
The emotional breakdown occurred on-stage at the Rock and Roll 25th Hall of Fame Anniversary Concert -- which aired on HBO this weekend.
Wonder was singing Jackson's, "The Way You Make Me Feel" -- when Stevie, still distraught by the death of his good friend, suddenly chokes up, hunches over and puts his face in his hands ... while the music continues to play.
It all goes down around 1:35 into the clip.
Stevie eventually pulls himself together and finished the song -- and ultimately received a hug from John Legend and a huge ovation from the crowd.
It is really unbelievable for me until now. I miss my great idol. All his fans feel the same.I still feel very bad of MJ's death. How could Dr. Murray so careless? He is the one to blame on his death, nobody but him. I hate him. Rest in peace Michael. Love you forever and ever.
Its all so sad, chrstmas is coming
without Michael,
hope his kids can handle this must be hard
whish all the best to them and to all
I am applauding Stevie Wonder for showing raw emotions..especially he is friends with MJ! God bless you Stevie! We all miss MJ so much!
Yes, we miss Michael more every day, but the comforting thing is knowing that the TRUTH is coming out and Michael's humanitarian legacy will live forever. With all the websites popping up and people doing their RESEARCH into the travesty which was that 2005 contrived trial, we see how Sneddon manufactured evidence and encouraged people to lie, and LOST anyway! I just wish Michael would have stayed in the US (if not at Neverland, which I can undertand), as his fans would ALWAYS have stuck with him through everything and brought him back sooner. Friends like Stevie, who knew the MAN, Michael Jackson, not the myth. Everyone should google Michael Jackson Sony and see how he stood up to corporate greed and corruption, and all his speeches against apartheid and racism, and how he always, always fought for the rights of the underdog. Haters, this is the TRUTH; you need to learn to live with the TRUTH.
Hey Jim your turn will come. It certainly takes one child molester to know one. I am willing to bet you are using MJ's name to describe your dark secrets. I guess you are now acting out your fantasies and that you had a crush on MJ but guess what he had better taste. He certainly would not choose "a washed up retard from Billingsgate" What do you know about MJ you idiot? Have you ever met him? How do you know that he is rotting in hell. Your turn will surely come and where will you be then? Rotting in hell maliciously minding MJ's business? Why dont you go get something constructive to do with your life for a change. You CANT define Mj. He is not limited by your feeble brainless drivel. MJ is who God says he is. A CHILD OF THE MOST HIGH GOD. Wonderfully made. Beloved by God, a creative genius who God put here for a season. But God saw that he could not take anymore of the abuse meted out to him and called him to rest. He is in a much better place now than you certainly are. When it is your time to be judged I certainly hope that you can take it. There is an old adage which says what aint catch you, aint pass you. Be careful what you wish for it may very well come back to haunt you. Cant you MJ haters understand that you will NEVER be able to stop the love that is flowing towards MJ's spirit form. It is called the law of sowing and reaping. MJ sowed so much goodness and kindness, gave so very much and he is now reaping all the love on a global scale. If you think he is in hell why dont you go look for him there. I hope when you get there the demons shut the door on your sorry a@#s because you surely wont find MJ there. Love you More Michael. RIP my most handsome prince.
Stevie wonder never even saw michael jackson, so what was he moaning about.
attention seeking no doubt, i expect wonder has got a new album out soon and its a good excuse to jump on the bandwagon.... oh look im that singer stevie wonder remember me i loved michael jackson perhaps you will buy my new cd..
Im surprised they didnt ask him about the death of gary coleman


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"I fail to understand whatever is being said about spot-fixing. The voice in that telephonic conversation is not mine. It is very easy to frame anyone with a doctored audio clip," Shalabh said today.
India TV had claimed that Shalabh had offered to spot-fix a no-ball in return for Rs. 10 lakh, which the Kings XI Punjab and Uttar Pradesh cricketer denied.
"If they are showing all the video clips, why are they not showing that I have demanded Rs. 10 lakhs from them," he said.
"I will definitely file a case against the channel."
"I had just seven or eight meetings with them, and they introduced themselves as a sports management people. They told me they can help me to shift to some other franchisee where I can be paid better."
"I am not the only one to meet them, I can tell you they have met at least 50 IPL players. I myself have talked to 15 such players about the issue."
"They all were doubtful that whether they are from a sports management company or not because they always used to talk about fixing and who is getting how much money."
Watson to lead Rajasthan Royals in IPL-7
The Aussie all-rounder will replace the retired Rahul Dravid as Royals' helmsman. More »


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Cobblestone streets like these in DUMBO, Brooklyn often go into disrepair as they are much more expensive to replace.
The term "cobblestone" itself refers to a patchwork of mixed rounded stones installed for pavement. While it is true that there was a time when all of New York City's streets were made of cobblestones, you'd be surprised to find out that the ones that remain today (in DUMBO and SoHo, for example) aren't quite as old as you would expect. And the Department of Transportation has already set in motion big plans to replace a lot of the city's cobblestone.


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Artists, Johnson, Duane Tinted glass creations called window "whimsies" made by Denver artist Duane Johnson. Post Empire Nov. 29, 1959 p.37 He and Margaret Johnson operate the Wildweed Workshop in Denver. Post Jan. 18, 1953 Clips: Denver. Business. Interior Decorating j 10
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Gene Barry |
Glenn Howard |
Anthony Franciosa |
Jeff Dillon |
Robert Stack |
Dan Farrell |
Susan Saint James |
Peggy Maxwell |
Ben Murphy |
Joe Sample |
Mark Miller |
Ross Craig |
Burl Ives |
Arthur Jellicoe |
Guest Star |
Bradford Dillman |
Earl Keith |
Guest Star |
Laraine Day |
Grace Jellicoe |
Guest Star |
Tony Franciosa appears briefly as "Jeff Dillon" in this episode, his only cameo appearance in any of the episodes headlined by one of his co-stars. Gene Barry appeared in eight episodes of which he was not officially the star, but Robert Stack never appeared in any episodes where he wasn't the leading man.
This was the first Gene Barry segment of the season. Dave Grusin, who is responsible for the show's theme, composes the music for this episode. We find out in this episode that Glen Howard's zodiac sign is "Leo". This episode shows Howard's penthouse - he actually lives in the top part of the building - and his living quarters have all of the modern conveniences, including a private elevator and a bar. On the roof is a helicopter pad, shown in this episode.
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OK, yes, companies pay a little something to be Sponsored Deals. But we don't allow just any old crap in this section. Sponsored Deals are proposed to us by other retailers, manufacturers, and even other daily deal sites. If we find the deal compelling enough that our members will appreciate us bringing it to their attention, we'll feature it here. Believe it or not, we have a reputation to uphold. If your store would like to be considered for this space, please contact us for details. But if your deal is lame, or sketchy, no amount of money will let you buy your way in.
Community Deals
It's whatever you want it to be.
Pretty much, anyway. This is where you find the deals that wooters like you have ferreted out and brought to light. We're thinking it'll turn into a massive database of discounted products from around the Web, constantly expanding to absorb the newest deals from the very moment their prices are slashed, with each deal immediately rated by hordes of savvy voters to spotlight the very greatest deals in the world today. Hey, we can dream, right?
We use a fancy algorithm to determine which deals are catching the most buzz – they're under the Popular tab, which is the default view of this section. You can look for the most popular deals today, this week, or this month. The Fresh tab features the most recently submitted deals, so that's where to look for deals that everybody else doesn't know about yet. And the Search bar does what a Search bar does, only, uh, much wootier! Yeah! Right on!
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Ms. Andrea Razzaghi
Andrea Razzaghi was selected as the Deputy Director of Astrophysics in September 2012. She provides executive leadership, strategic direction, and executive management of the programs and projects managed by the Astrophysics Division of the NASA Science Mission Directorate. The strategic goal of NASA's astrophysics programs is to discover how the universe works, explore how it began and evolved, and search for Earth-like Planets.
Ms. Razzaghi joined NASA Headquarters in 2010 to serve as the Assistant Director for Planetary Science. During her tenure, she oversaw many exciting mission milestones, including two comet encounters, three planetary launches (Juno to Jupiter, GRAIL to the moon and the Mars Science Laboratory), the commencement of science operations at Mercury with the MESSENGER mission, the Dawn mission at the Asteroid Vesta and the successful landing of the Curiosity rover on the surface of Mars.
Prior to NASA Headquarters, Ms. Razzaghi worked at NASA's Goddard Space Flight Center, where she held several key project management positions. From 2005 through 2009, she worked in the Explorers Program Office as the Mission Manager for two astrophysics missions; the Wide-field Infrared Survey Explorer (WISE), which launched in 2009, and the Nuclear Spectroscopic Telescope Array (NuSTAR), which launched in February 2012. Ms. Razzaghi also has extensive experience managing Earth science missions. From 1997 through 2004, she was the Observatory Manager for the Earth Observing System (EOS) Aura mission, which launched from Vandenberg Air Force Base in 2004. In 1992, Ms. Razzaghi began her project management career as the Instrument Manager for the Microwave Imager on the Tropical Rainfall Measuring Mission (TRMM), which launched from Tanegashima, Japan in 1997.
From 1996 to 1997, Ms. Razzaghi was selected to serve on detail as a Senior Policy Analyst in the White House Office of Science and Technology Policy (OSTP). There she coordinated the activities of the National Science and Technology Council (NSTC). This Cabinet-level Council is the principal means within the executive branch to coordinate science and technology policy across the diverse entities that make up the Federal research and development enterprise. Chaired by the President, the membership of the NSTC is made up of the Vice President, the Director of the Office of Science and Technology Policy, Cabinet Secretaries and Agency Heads with significant science and technology responsibilities, and other White House officials. Ms. Razzaghi also worked with the President's Council of Advisors on Science and Technology (PCAST), an advisory group of the nation's leading scientists and engineers who directly advise the President and the Executive Office of the President.
Ms. Razzaghi grew up in Washington, D.C. and graduated from the Sidwell Friends School in 1978. She graduated from Brown University in 1982 with a Bachelor of Science degree in Mechanical Engineering. She earned her Master of Science degree from the Catholic University of America in Mechanical Engineering Design in 1990. Ms. Razzaghi started her engineering career at a small company where she worked on airborne mine countermeasures for the US Navy. In 1985, Ms. Razzaghi started her NASA career at the Goddard Space Flight Center, where she worked as an electromechanical engineer. She contributed to a number of successful missions including the Cosmic Background Explorer (COBE), which provided evidence that supported the Big Bang theory and led to a Nobel Prize for two of its principal investigators, and Cassini, which is still operational and sending back spectacular science data and images from Saturn and its moons.


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Would you be willing to answer a few brief questions about PlayStation Forums?
Just wanted to make sure I'm going to do this right, because I'm a little confused on how to go about making sure I don't lose saves.
My gf's PS3 is having graphical glitches, looks like the gfx card is gonna die. We want to transfer her saves to my ps3 and obviously NOT wipe my HD.
So...I can sign in her PSN ID on my ps3, correct? And then since she's only really playing Ni No Kuni and the new Naruto game (which appear to have copy-protected saves), I'll just get PS Plus for 3 months, then copy her saves onto my ps3 with a thumb drive or over the network? And once she's signed in on her ID on my Ps3, she should be good to go....right?
Am I missing anything? She'll be able to access her saves under her ID and I'll be able to access mine under my ID, right?
Thanks in advance! We're really confused as to just making sure her saves will be fine. 18 bucks is easier to swallow then a new ps3, especially with the ps4 on the way.


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Washington Lyrics
She weighs half as much as her keyboard but she could punch
out your Dad.
Yes, she is a female singer songwriter…but she's not shy
and retreating or cute. BUT: she's not 10 tons of slut in a
mini skirt and nipple tape belly dancing on a crucifix.
She's addicted to Facebook but not like your best friend
Her voice will stop you in your tracks. It brings grown men
to tears on live television (seriously). It soars, then
falters, then soars again and it is full off sorrow even
when it is full of joy (soft, broken, soaring, More...
Submit Washington New Lyrics
- 1997 Lyrics
- 80 Miles Lyrics
- Cement Lyrics
- Clementine Lyrics
- Fighting The Good Fight Lyrics
- Five And Ten Lyrics
- Halloween Lyrics
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- How To Tame Lions Lyrics
- I Believe You Liar Lyrics
- Lightwell Lyrics
- Lover/Soldier Lyrics
- Navy Blues Lyrics
- One Man Band Lyrics
- Rich Kids Lyrics
- Someone Else In Mind Lyrics
- Spanish Temper Lyrics
- Sunday Best Lyrics
- Swallows Lyrics
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Submit Washington New Lyrics


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Silent Shout: MMM's Attempt to Hide in Plain Sight
Image via Oh Fantastic
In the late summer and early fall of 2008, events for Maison Martin Margiela's 20th Anniversary were in full swing. Parties. A runway show homage to the company's past. A traveling exhibit stopping at multiple major museums. In retrospect, the attendees were unknowing participants in a celebratory wake for the career of Martin Margiela: after months of rumors that Martin Margiela was distancing himself from the design process, the Maison officially announced that he had already left the company he founded.
In November 2012, the Maison did it again. The party was ostensibly for the launch of H&M x MMM, but if you took a step back you could see it meant more. It was a coming out party for the new Margiela brand: bold, brash, quietly self-aggrandizing, keeping itself in the public eye any way but advertising. It was a move Renzo Rosso telegraphed not long after he claimed a majority stake of Maison Martin Margiela in 2002; a strategy that looked brilliant with the rise of the 24 hour internet news cycle, and prescient by the rise of social media. Now it appears the company is using social media to bridge the gap between the old, quiet, anonymous brand, and the new brand. But the "new brand," still visually intact as white, weird, and playfully intellectual, looks to be only an open door allowing us to see inside the Maison. A move that, while popular, effectively destroys the old brand identity based on anonymity, like a magician giving away all of his secrets. Does the company have anything to take the place of the identity it destroyed, or will they just hope the white door is enough? And do they fear that consumers will discover the open door is just an illusion, revealing little more than clever designs in white?
—-Read the entire feature after the jump
Table of Contents
Background – Branding the Blank Canvas
Becoming a Luxury Company – Operations
Becoming a Luxury Company – Marketing
Burning and Building Bridges – The H&M Collaboration
Background: Branding the Blank Canvas
Maison Martin Margiela's guiding branding principle, until its takeover by Renzo Rosso's Only the Brave holding company, was anonymity. It began with Martin Margiela's almost complete refusal to engage celebrity culture, which "ironicially… became exponentially interesting to the media."1 Early in his career he would give brief interviews and appear with the design team after runway shows, everyone clad in white lab coats, but he stopped engaging in both in the early 90's. Susannah Frankel, whom the Maison describes as "one of the most authoritative voices on the Maison's history and role in fashion," stated that "[t]he single most significant idea that drives this brand is, perhaps, its anti-marketing stance.* So in addition to Mr. Margiela's silence, the brand was also silent in its own way: the company has never engaged in traditional print or television advertising.
The brand chose the color white as its primary visual branding tool to reinforce the concept of anonymity. The Maison states that the color white is an undefined blank canvas: "[n]eutral, the binary opposite of black, or a blank canvas,"2 and, "evidence of option, an option of expression, be that ours or that of those who choose to wear the clothes we propose."3 Its choice of white for the label clarifies how white stands for anonymity in a more practical sense.
The tag is a plain white, rectangular cloth on the inside of the garment, held together with four pick stitches on the corners. The Maison states this was initially, "A proclamation of anonymity, the desire to not to distract from the garment with a name brand, a response to the tyranny of logos. The four white pick stitches were first conceived to hold the labels in place and to be easily undone, thus rendering the item unidentifiable."4 Though the house now concedes, "These stitches nevertheless became a sort of emblem, recognisable from a distance."5
The first Margiela headquarters in 1988 were painted white, so the use of white and the concept of anonymity has been in place since the Maison's founding 6. Other public ways the Maison continues to use white includes long white coats for the store sales assistants, white cotton convenience store bags to hold retail purchases, white glossy boxes to hold clothes, shoes and accessories, white paint covering almost everything in Margiela stores, clothing painted white, and white cotton envelopes for press communication.
Selling the Mystery
The Maison is, and always has been, a luxury concern that is "branded through and through."7 Why were people so willing to accept MMM as some sort of stoic outlier when it was still clearly branded and marketed, and in a way that didn't necessarily relate to the product? In what way did chaotic deconstruction, humorous trompe l'oeil, "Replicas," and almost absurdist "Artisanal" works relate to white paint and anonymity? A blank tag is still a tag; it still signifies something unique if no other company uses the same size, shape, or fabric composition. The four stitches visible from the outside of the garment brands MMM clothing just as an embroidered crocodile brands Lacoste.
There's no clear explanation, but there are clues. Regardless of the Maison's unusual branding methods, "the clothes still dominated." Martin Margiela's tailoring skill has been compared to Savile Row8 and his cutting technique was "legendary."9 His designs were described as years ahead of their time and highly influential. They've also been described as intellectual or clever, which supported any number of odd things MMM did, such as their unusual runway presentations and invitations. The clothes, while well-made and unique, were neutral enough to allow the wearer feel as if they defined the clothing.10 In using Deconstruction, and making public statements referring to his love of fashion history, Mr. Margiela may have used the past to imbue himself with a sense of legitimacy. And of course, Mr. Margiela's aesthetic and public persona were in direct opposition to the glamour excess of the late 80's and 90's, and fashion loves any perceptible shift.
Anonymity would be cast aside when Renzo Rosso's Only the Brave claimed a majority stake in Maison Martin Margiela in 2002.
[For a more complete discussion of the Maison's Conceptual hallmarks, themes, and brand philosophy, including the varied meanings it has given for using white, please see the Maison Martin Margiela Reference Guide]
Becoming a Luxury Company: Operations
In 2002, a majority stake of Maison Martin Margiela was acquired by Diesel founder/President Renzo Rosso (MMM was held as Neuf SAS and acquired through Rosso's Italian holding group Only the Brave). OTB owns the brands like Diesel, 55DSL, Maison Martin Margiela and Viktor & Rolf. OTB also owns Staff International S.p.A., a manufacturing and distribution arm with licensing agreements to produce Maison Martin Margiela, Viktor & Rolf, Dsquared2, Vivienne Westwood, Marc Jacobs Men and Just Cavalli.*
MMM likely sold a majority stake to OTB because it was facing significant financial difficulties.1,2,3 CEO Giovanni Pungetti stated that, upon being hired as CEO, he found the company was "stagnant and unprofitable."4 In an interview with Women's Wear Daily, Mr. Rosso indicated the company needed a complete overhaul: production, distribution, staffing, sales, marketing, and executive leadership.5
In just under 10 years of ownership, MMM's revenues went from €15m in 2002,6,7 to €75m in 2011.8 If Mr. Pungetti is to be believed, the company was unprofitable in 2002,9 and only began to make a profit for under OTB in 2007, after making €60m.10 To date, since OTB's takeover, MMM has introduced or heavily expanded twelve product "Lines" and collaborated with Yoox, Opening Ceremony, and H&M, to name a few.
MMM unmasked itself on the path to commercial success. Its four couture stitches became "a status symbol for fashion insiders."11 Its Sartorial Collection actually includes a gold embroidered signature reading "Maison Martin Margiela" in the lining of the garments12 – something of an anathema to an "unbranded" company. Pungetti and Rosso freely discussed the Maison's business with the press, though they never spoke for the design team. MMM products are widely available online since most major retailers have webstores, and it appears MMM does not restrict what those retailers may post online. MMM now has official profiles on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Youtube, Instagram and Tumblr, in addition to its own official site and "eboutique." And in perhaps the strangest twist, it became a VIP label, but most publicly with rappers, from juggernauts like Jay-Z and Kanye West, to much-hyped newcomer A$AP Rocky.
[For a more complete look at the how OTB expanded MMM, including a timeline of product/line/project launches, revenue, and statements from executive management about their motivations, please see the Maison Martin Margiela Reference Guide]
Becoming a Luxury Company: Marketing
In a 2004 intervew with WWD, Renzo Rosso made statements that showed he understood the brand he was taking over. He further conveyed that for the company to succeed, the brand itself would have to be open to change, and that he would advertise it as much as possible without traditional advertising.
Mr. Rosso clearly knew that Maison Martin Margiela was not normally associated with business-speak, stating, "We're starting to analyze the brand… We now can measure selling and sell-out, and there is a real production system. We have early deliveries. I feel it's a new start. We've come to know each other very well. What I didn't want to do is destroy the heart, the passion of the house. But I wanted to provide the tools to support the business. Now we have professional people."1 Mr. Rosso's understanding of the brand was further exhibited by when he said the company would not advertise – something the company almost entirely eschewed – but instead would pursue an "aggressive communication strategy."2 Finally, in what seemed like an out of place statement, he said that the company would strive to dress more "VIP's."3
And in that short interview, Mr. Rosso laid out the path for MMM's public relations future: advertising without advertising by taking the existing culture and amplifying it. Amongst the twelve product lines launched during Rosso's tenure, there were heavy expansions in large moneymakers like accessories and footwear, along with a fragrance deal with L'Oreal and a jewelry deal with the Damiani Group.4
In 1999, the Maison had a small, short-lived collaboration with French mail order company 3 Suisses.5,6,7 In 2009, Artisanal Line pieces were sold by Yoox.8 In 2011, MM6 collaborated with Opening Ceremony. 9 In 2012, the H&M collaboration.
History has always been celebrated in its own unique way at the Maison. Philosophically and practically, the Maison has aligned itself with fashion history through its Replica line, deconstruction, and its use of white.* The Maison has said that using white references history, amongst other things, because white shows the unique aging process of a garment.10 In October 1993, after just five years in business, the runway show was retrospective of the Maison's designs.13 In 1999, the Maison presented clothing treated with "agar, a gelatinous bacterial food," then "mold, bacteria, or yeast," and left the clothing to be consumed by the bacteria.11 Over time they changed drastically in color and texture. This was said to be "inspired by the fact that it was a draper and haberdasher, Anton van Leeuwenhoek, who was the first person to observe microorganisms. He saw them through a powerful magnifying glass he had developed to check the quality of his cloth."12
Under Rosso, many of the exhibits had a synergistic connection with new product. The Margiela "Home Line" was announced just four months after the Maison redesigned the Elle Decoration Suite at the Cite de L'Architecture in Paris, France.14 After that, several high profile interior redesigns occurred.15,16,17 And for the Maison's 20th anniversary, there was again a retrospective runway show. There was also an anniversary book, parties, and a traveling exhibit with exclusive merchandise. The exhibit itself was also an amplification. The Maison was no stranger to museums or artistic collaboration, but they were never so celebrated or attention-seeking. Most fashion exhibits don't boast attendees like Daphne Guinness and Gareth Pugh.18
In a fortuitous coincidence, Mr. Rosso's "communications" strategy was bolstered and thrived as the internet news cycle progressively became comprehensive.
Perhaps the only novel additions to the Maison's PR cycle were Mr. Rosso and Mr. Pungetti. They made, and continue to make frequent statements to the press regarding the business aspects of the company (the creative aspects are still answered in the traditional collective manner by, purportedly, the design team). Besides being a good way to keep the company in the press, it was likely a necessary evil to assure the luxury world of the company's strength. And the company has been strong, continuing to increase revenue, even through an international recession.$ But their openness has been a liability.
Whereas collaborations, exhibits, and new product lines were slow expansions of the existing business and culture, their statements quickly shifted the Maison from fringe brand to Luxury Company. Rosso and Pungetti understood the shift was occurring, and did make attempts to salvage the brand's outlier status by mentioning the old brand's philosophy and design. These statements rang hollow because they were slight comments wedged into business-oriented rhetoric. Mr. Pungetti claimed in 2008 that "we are hot because we are democratic, we are ourselves and we don't like to shout."19 He described the Maison's interior design work by saying, "Creating ambience is a very important development area."20 Later, the statements they made seemed disingenuous because of their continual undercutting of Martin Margiela's role at the company.
The image of the old Maison may have been laid to rest in the winter of 2009. Rumors had already been circulating that Martin Margiela had left the Maison, or had checked out of the design process and he was looking for a successor.21 Maison Martin Margiela was in the public eye due to the incredibly large push the Maison's marketing team had put into the 20th anniversary events and products in 2008. While addressing the rumors, Rosso either miscalculated or was careless with his words when the whole world was watching, claiming, "Martin has not been there for a long time. We have a new fresh design team on board. We are focusing on young, realistic energy for the future; this is really Margiela for the year 2015."22
Lucian James, writing for Business of Fashion, found the quote encapsulated a huge set of problems: "[Rosso's statement] undermined the role of Martin Margiela," downplayed the "importance of any transitional talent at the brand," "set a course for the future which sounded more like a business plan than a brand positioning," was disorienting in its mention of "Margiela for the year 2015," and "had the effect of opening the curtain to reveal nobody was there, while inviting people to believe nothing had changed."23 Mr Pungetti did not help matters much. In attempting to assuage fears, WWD reported that Mr. Pungetti "stressed that Margiela remains allied with [OTB's] strategy."24
The cat was out of the bag. Anyone who was paying attention saw that the brand was now a truly a business, and it no longer had its visionary founder. But the new Maison was not quite ready to be unveiled. The new brand waited until the H&M collaboration to announce its arrival to the public at large.
Burning and Building Bridges – The H&M Collaboration
Photo © H&M / Maison Martin Margiela
After a decade of successful efforts to commercialize Maison Martin Margiela, the H&M collaboration was the perfect opportunity for the public unveiling of the new brand: a mass market hype machine in the age of social media sharing. The Maison's justifications for the collaboration and the products it provided were incredibly shrewd. Collaborations and new product lines frequently occurred in the Maison's past, so doing another one was not unprecedented. However, the other collaborations were still small in scale and relatively unknown, and reactions to the normally aloof brand doing a mass market collaboration were still puzzled and incredulous. The Maison had to have anticipated this: by reproducing pieces from its past, the Maison legitimized the endeavor by referencing its own fondness of fashion history, its history of reproducing its own pieces, and its longstanding claims that its designs are "democratic" by offering its past pieces to more people at a more accessible price*,1,2
The collaboration was the perfect non-traditional press generator. "H&M, a colossal company, among the largest clothing retailers in the world, doesn't make its money from these capsule collections. No, these are devised to add lustre to the company, to lure customers into stores, to draw praise from celebrities and actors, to encourage this sort of article."3 The collaboration itself was covered by sources as unlikely as MSNBC,4 Forbes.com,5 and Bloomberg.6 The international launch party in New York City was a star-studded affair, with many of the model/celebrity/actor/singer attendees wearing the collaboration collection. Sarah Jessica Parker, Kanye West, Doutzen Kroes, Julianne Moore and Alexander Wang were just some of the attendees. The event was covered by Vogue, The Cut, WWD, the New York Times, and countless other publications.
Traditional advertising was used, but it can be blamed on H&M and the collaboration as long as the Maison does not embark on advertising on its non-collaboration Lines. There were multiple behind the scenes videos for the ad campaign photo shoot. That photo shoot produced a print ad campaign, almost entirely unheard of in MMM's past, for "international editions of Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, GQ and Dazed & Confused."7 Most baffling of all, there was the "Silent Manifesto," in which large groups of young people – usually wearing head to toe black, covered with a white apron, with many carrying collaboration placards – walked silently through cities worldwide.8,9 But the logo was always the collaboration specific logo. It is also worth noting that the agency that created the US Silent Manifesto lists H&M as the client, not Margiela or Only the Brave.
The advent of social media made Rosso's communications strategy appear prophetic
Social media runs parallel to traditional advertising: it is clearly a brand marketing itself, but importantly it is seen as a conversation that the consumer can participate in, and might even expect.10 Thus, the Maison's entry into social media was not advertising, it was a reclusive genius finally entering the modern age. MMM's social media team was in overdrive. In just over a month leading up to the November 15, 2012 release, there were 50 tweets (though to be fair, 29 of those tweets occurred on a single day: October 23, the international launch party), 13 related Facebook posts, and 5 Youtube videos. The official MMM Instagram account was launched on October 18.11,12 And the language used in the Margiela team's Tweets and posts were just as important as the content and frequency. The formerly reclusive brand invited people to "check out," "discover," and "visit us."13,14,15 They also asked people to "be part of the buzz" – and share the collaboration hashtag #MargielawithHM.16 So long as the company does not engage in print or television advertising, it has salvaged a small amount of continuity between the past and present brand identities, and there is certainly carryover with the visual branding.
Where does MMM see its brand now and how it will proceed? The company grew just as Giovanni Pungetti told the design team when he became CEO: the brand did not have to be niche to be successful.17 But he seemed to think they were afraid they would not be "cool," and missed that they probably feared the cultural change of a man who did not see the difference between Diesel brand and Maison Martin Margiela's brand in 2002.18 Was something lost in the process? Is the brand producing the same quality, avant garde designs that once left Marc Jacobs defending his designs from accusations of copying and guided other designers to the future? Has it become just another luxury brand? If this is true, is the alternative, the closure of an unprofitable company around 2002, preferable?
While Maison Martin Margiela is still visually painted white, making unusual designs, and doing weird stuff on the runway, it has abandoned its past branding philosophy based on anonymity and has not replaced it with anything. This social media blitz is not a phase, it is the new normal. Critical praise for its designs, which the Maison receives, though not nearly to the degree it used to, once held the Maison beyond derision for its weirdness and made people at least wonder if there was greater meaning to their antics. But attempting to be both mysterious and ostentatious can produce laughable results, just look at the Silent Manifesto.
Apple isn't a terrible comparison. A cult brand with highly regarded product design, from appearance to function, suddenly marketing niche products for mass sales, haunted by the legacy of its former leader, and complaints that it has lost its way. Eventually the aura of the "mysterious" brand will fade once everyone has seen it, and then what will be left? If MMM continues to ride the hype and sells well, it probably doesn't matter, and it's worth wondering if the company sees this as a problem either.
Citations and Credits
Background: Branding the Blank Canvas
1. Lucian James, Maison Martin Margiela: The Cult of Invisibility – Part Two, Business of Fashion (October 28, 2009), http://www.businessoffashion.com/2009/10/maison-martin-margiela-the-cult-of-invisibility-part-two.html. ↩
*Phrasing taken from the Reference Guide. Susannah Frankel, The birth, death, and re-birth of conceptual fashion, in Ian Luna, ed., Maison Martin Margiela (New York: Rizzoli International Publications, Inc., 2009), insert between 40-1. ↩
2. Official Glossary, White. ↩
3. Filep Motwary, INTERVIEW: MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA in conversation with FILEP MOTWARY, Un Nouveau Ideal (June 29, 2010)http://www.filepmotwary.com/motwary/2010/06/interview-maison-martin-margiela-in-a-conversation-with-filep-motwary.html. ↩
4. Official Facebook Page of Maison Martin Margiela, Portrait Section, White label and the four white stitcheshttps://www.facebook.com/maisonmargiela/app_398357830200320. ↩
5. White label and the four white stitches, see footnote 4. ↩
6. Susannah Frankel, Martin Margiela: Fashion's Invisible Superstar, The Independent (July 16, 2008), http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/martin-margiela-fashions-invisible-superstar-868562.html. ↩
7. Sarah Mower, Margiela, Be mine, Vogue (September 2008), in Ian Luna, ed., Maison Martin Margiela (New York: Rizzoli International Publications, Inc., 2009), 175. ↩
8. Mark Holgate, Who is Martin Margiela?, Harvey Nichols Magazine, in Ian Luna, ed., Maison Martin Margiela (New York: Rizzoli International Publications, Inc., 2009), 175. ↩
9. Amy M. Spindler, Coming Apart, N.Y. Times (July 25, 1993) http://www.nytimes.com/1993/07/25/style/coming-apart.html. ↩
10. Margiela, Be Mine, see footnote 7. ↩
Becoming a Luxury Company: Operations
*Phrasing taken from the Reference Guide. See the Guide for citations. www.thirdlooks.com/2012/11/maison-martin-margiela-reference-guide. ↩
1. Suzy Menkes, Class act: Margiela moves up a grade, International Herald Tribune (January 11, 2005), https://www.nytimes.com/2005/01/10/style/10iht-fmartin.html?_r=0. ↩
2. Christina Passariello, Antwerp's Fashion Rebels Get Serious About Business , The Wall Street Journal (September 26, 2008), http://online.wsj.com/article/SB122236927604575907.html. ↩
3. Correspondence btw Malcolm Mclaren and Maison Martin Margiela, Has Anybody Seen My Old Friend Martin?, N.Y. Times T Magazine (March 13, 2005), https://www.nytimes.com/2005/03/13/style/tmagazine/TM1502150.html. ↩
4. Antwerp's Fashion Rebels Get Serious About Business , see footnote 2. ↩
5. Robert Murphy, Getting Down to Business at Margiela, Women's Wear Daily (December 29, 2004), http://www.wwd.com/retail-news/retail-features/getting-down-to-business-at-margiela-588980?full=true. ↩
6. Imran Amed, CEO Talk | Giovanni Pungetti, Chief Executive Officer, Maison Martin Margiela, Business of Fashion (September 29, 2011), http://www.businessoffashion.com/2011/09/ceo-talk-giovanni-pungetti-chief-executive-officer-maison-martin-margiela.html. ↩
7. Suzy Menkes, Martin Margiela to Leave Fashion House He Founded , N.Y. Times (December 8, 2009), https://www.nytimes.com/2009/12/09/business/global/09diesel.html?ref=martinmargiela&_r=0. ↩
8. CEO Talk | Giovanni Pungetti, Chief Executive Officer, Maison Martin Margiela, see footnote 6. ↩
9. Antwerp's Fashion Rebels Get Serious About Business , see footnote 2. ↩
10. Miles Socha, Art Versus Commerce: Can Margiela Expand Without Selling Out?, Women's Wear Daily (May 2, 2008), http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/art-versus-commerce-can-margiela-expand-without-selling-out-455630. ↩
11. Antwerp's Fashion Rebels Get Serious About Business , see footnote 2. ↩
12. Ian Luna, ed., Maison Martin Margiela (New York: Rizzoli International Publications, Inc.) 2009. ↩
Becoming a Luxury Company: Marketing
1. Robert Murphy, Getting Down to Business at Margiela, Women's Wear Daily (December 29, 2004), http://www.wwd.com/retail-news/retail-features/getting-down-to-business-at-margiela-588980?full=true. ↩
2. Antwerp's Fashion Rebels Get Serious About Business , see footnote 1. ↩
3. Antwerp's Fashion Rebels Get Serious About Business , see footnote 1. ↩
4. Ian Luna, ed., Maison Martin Margiela (New York: Rizzoli International Publications, Inc., 2009). ↩
5. Martin Margiela, ModeFix (April 25, 2009) http://fr.modefix.com/createurs/108527.html. ↩
6. Who's Who?, Prevalent Style; http://www.prevalentstyle.com/?page_id=269. ↩
7. Simon Chilvers, Martin Margiela and H&M: extreme fashion heads for the high street, The Guardian (October 24, 2012) http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2012/oct/24/martin-margiela-hm-extreme-fashion. ↩
8. Yoox Group Press Release, Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal, (November 2009) http://www.yooxgroup.com/en/press_area/press_releases/yoox_2009.asp. ↩
9. Opening Ceremony Blog, MM6 Maison Martin Margiela x Opening Ceremony, (August 4, 2011) http://www.openingceremony.us/entry.asp?pid=4070. ↩
* See the Maison Martin Margiela Reference Guide for more information on the Maison's Replica Line, use of deconstruction, and varied use of white. www.thirdlooks.com/2012/11/maison-martin-margiela-reference-guide. ↩
10. Chris Dercon, Fashion Like the Dark Side of the Moon: the Moon Ray, in Ian Luna, ed., Maison Martin Margiela (New York: Rizzoli International Publications, Inc., 2009), insert between 136-7. ↩
11. Eric V. Copage, NEIGHBORHOOD REPORT: BROOKLYN HEIGHTS; As Dresses Decompose, Designs, Presumably, Are Born, N.Y. Times (May 23, 1999) http://www.nytimes.com/1999/05/23/nyregion/neighborhood-report-brooklyn-heights-dresses-decompose-designs-presumably-are.html. ↩
12. NEIGHBORHOOD REPORT: BROOKLYN HEIGHTS; As Dresses Decompose, Designs, Presumably, Are Born, see footnote 10. ↩
13. Amy M. Spindler, Review/Fashion; Four Designers In the Vanguard Hold the Line, N.Y. Times (October 11, 1993), www.nytimes.com/1993/10/11/style/review-fashion-four-designers-in-the-vanguard-hold-the-line.html. ↩
14. Emmanuelle Javell, Philippe Trétiack, and Marie-Pierre Morel, Carte blanche à la Maison Martin Margiela , Elle France, http://www.elle.fr/Deco/Les-visites-privees/Toutes-les-visites-privees/Carte-blanche-a-la-Maison-Martin-Margiela. ↩
15. Lillian Davies, In Suite with Maison Margiela, ArtSlant Paris (August 13, 2009), http://www.artslant.com/par/articles/show/9319. ↩
16. Press Release from Maison Martin Margiela, Luxury Hospitality Daily (December 1, 2009), http://www.luxury-hospitality-daily.com/index.php?id_actu=26624&home=actu_detail.php. ↩
17. Christine Muhlke, Now Booking: Martin Margiela's Suite Hereafter, N.Y. Times T Magazine (December 23, 2009), http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/12/23/now-booking-martin-margielas-suite-hereafter/. ↩
18. Tim Blanks, Enigma variations, Style.com (June 3, 2010), http://www.style.com/peopleparties/parties/scoop/global-060310_Margiela_20_Exhibition. ↩
$ See the Maison Martin Margiela Reference Guide for a revenue timeline. www.thirdlooks.com/2012/11/maison-martin-margiela-reference-guide. ↩
19. Miles Socha, Art Versus Commerce: Can Margiela Expand Without Selling Out?, Women's Wear Daily (May 2, 2008), http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/art-versus-commerce-can-margiela-expand-without-selling-out-455630. ↩
20. Suzy Menkes, Martin Margiela to Leave Fashion House He Founded , N.Y. Times (December 8, 2009), https://www.nytimes.com/2009/12/09/business/global/09diesel.html?ref=martinmargiela&_r=0. ↩
21. Eric Wilson, Martin Margiela to Leave Fashion House He Founded , N.Y. Times On the Runway Blog(September 28, 2008), http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/09/28/martin-margiela-to-remain-at-jil-sander/. ↩
22. Lauren Milligan, Margiela sans Margiela, Vogue UK (October 3, 2009), http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2009/10/03/martin-margiela-no-longer-at-the-maison. ↩
23. Lucian James, Maison Martin Margiela: The Cult of Invisibility – Part two, Business of Fashion (October 29, 2009), http://www.businessoffashion.com/2009/10/maison-martin-margiela-the-cult-of-invisibility-part-two.html. ↩
24. Miles Socha, Margiela Exits Margiela, Women's Wear Daily (December 9, 2009), http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/margiela-exits-margiela-2389402. ↩
Burning and Building Bridges – The H&M Collaboration
* See the Maison Martin Margiela Reference Guide for more information on the Maison's use of history and democratic design. www.thirdlooks.com/2012/11/maison-martin-margiela-reference-guide. ↩
1. Miles Socha, Art Versus Commerce: Can Margiela Expand Without Selling Out?, Women's Wear Daily (May 2, 2008), http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/art-versus-commerce-can-margiela-expand-without-selling-out-455630. ↩
2. Jessica Punter, Limited re-edition, British GQ (October 3, 2012), http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/articles/2012-10/03/hm-martin-margiela-collaboration. ↩
3. Derek McCormack, Inside H&M's arty Maison Martin Margiela collaboration launch, National Post (November 11, 2012), http://life.nationalpost.com/2012/11/11/inside-hms-arty-maison-martin-margiela-collaboration-launch/. ↩
4. Hilary George-Parkin, Wearable? H&M has a kooky new collaboration, Today.com (October 17, 2012), http://thelook.today.com/_news/2012/10/17/14512242-wearable-hm-has-a-kooky-new-collaboration. ↩
5. Lydia Dishman, How H&M Will Make Maison Martin Margiela Bigger Than Kanye West Could, Forbes.com (June 12, 2012), http://www.forbes.com/sites/lydiadishman/2012/06/12/how-hm-will-make-maison-martin-margiela-a-household-name/. ↩
6. Julie Cruz, H&M November Sales Beat Estimates After Margiela Line Debut, Bloomberg.com (December 17, 2012), http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2012-12-17/h-m-november-sales-beat-analysts-estimates-after-margiela-line.html. ↩
7. Samantha Conti, Sam Taylor-Johnson Lenses Campaign for Margiela, H&M Collection, Women's Wear Daily (October 2, 2012), http://wwd2.wwd.com/media-news/fashion-memopad/sams-paris-6371019. ↩
8. Official Facebook Page of Maison Martin Margiela, AlbumsSection, Maison Martin Margiela with H&M – Silent Manifestohttps://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151128559935913.432345.21415640912&type=3. ↩
9. Largetail, Our Work Section H&M: MMM Silent Manifesto (2012), http://www.largetail.com/#/hm-silent-manifesto/. ↩
10. Eric Savitz Social Media: Evolving From Broadcasting To Conversation, Forbes.com (September 15, 2011), http://www.forbes.com/sites/ciocentral/2011/09/15/social-media-evolving-from-broadcasting-to-conversation/. ↩
11. Official Facebook Page of Maison Martin Margiela, TimelineSection (October 18, 2012) http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151122764788785&set=a.10151122764778785.441077.92588673784&type=1. ↩
12. Official Twitter of Maison Martin Margiela (October 18, 2012) https://twitter.com/Margiela/status/258965982708637696. ↩
13. Official Twitter of Maison Martin Margiela (November 13, 2012) https://twitter.com/Margiela/status/268401230777290752. ↩
14. Official Twitter of Maison Martin Margiela (November 12, 2012) https://twitter.com/Margiela/status/268047363195695104. ↩
15. Official Twitter of Maison Martin Margiela (October 18, 2012) https://twitter.com/Margiela/status/258965982708637696. ↩
16. Official Twitter of Maison Martin Margiela (October 22, 2012) https://twitter.com/Margiela/status/260507121571991552. ↩
17. Imran Amed, CEO Talk | Giovanni Pungetti, Chief Executive Officer, Maison Martin Margiela, Business of Fashion (September 29, 2011), http://www.businessoffashion.com/2011/09/ceo-talk-giovanni-pungetti-chief-executive-officer-maison-martin-margiela.html. ↩
18. CEO Talk | Giovanni Pungetti, Chief Executive Officer, Maison Martin Margiela, see footnote 17. ↩
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Pixelligent Technologies, a maker of miniscule crystal additives used in electronics and plastics products, said Friday it has raised more than $5.1 million in new funding from the Abell Foundation and others.
The funding will allow the Baltimore company to increase manufacturing capacity and hire application, engineering and business development employees, Pixelligent said. The company, which got its start in a College Park incubator, now has more than 30 commercial customers and hopes to open additional plants in Baltimore, Pennsylvania and Delaware.
The company's nanocrystal additives, made with zirconia and hafnia, are used to boost the performance of smartphone screens, TV displays, computer chips and synthetic oil and to strengthen plastics. Demand for nanocrystal products has jumped in the past year, with the fastest growth in Asia, said CEO Craig Bandes in a statement.
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The funding came from new and existing investors with the Abell Foundation taking the lead. The company has raised $14 million in equity funding in the past five years and has been awarded more than $9 million in federal grants.


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If Dumnezeu was a real guy
Without it being some kind of political statement, I simply do not own a car. I also do not ride a bicycle. Therefore I spend a lot of time simply walking around the city. However what is applicable here in Unicorn City is equally valid for just about any other city in this country in… Read More ›
Told Ya So (Redux)
After all these years of "covering" Romania-related issues, it really doesn't give me a whole lot of satisfaction to find out, once again, that I was right. In the domestic media (here in Romania) for some reason there is never any coverage about Nigel Farage, the UKIP or all of the fearsomely waged internal politics… Read More ›
Gypsies 2 Europe 0
Last week the police in Greece snatched this girl away from her gypsy family solely because she was blonde and had blue eyes. Later they were forced to release this girl back to her parents when DNA tests proved she was their child. Oh snap, the police in Ireland did the exact same thing. Guess… Read More ›


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Posted on Jun 18th, 2009 by Nick Catchdubs
Psyched about this week's edition because it features a lot of tunes I haven't really seen get much shine on the usual internet channels – which is exactly what I wanted this column to showcase (as opposed to my two cents on, like, "Death Of Autotune." No shots…)
Hit the jump for new Bone Thugs & Harmony, TI, Camp Lo, Killer Mike, DJ Deadeye and Friends, Bounceback, and – just because – a dancehall song. Read More
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Can't choose? It helps to know what type of decision you're facing. Buddhist meditation teacher Phillip Moffitt explains the five types.
All your options are good.
Best Approach
If you're struggling with a win-win decision (such as spending time with family versus vacationing with friends), it could indicate that you aren't clear about your values or priorities. Ask yourself, "Am I creating options for myself to escape facing a deeper issue?"
You don't have a preference for any of your choices, and yet you still can't seem to decide.
Best Approach
Paralysis sometimes indicates an unacknowledged feeling trying to express itself. Be mindful of how each choice "feels" in your body right now. Often this will help reveal the answer.
You see gains and losses in all of your options. Because of this, it's not clear which course you should take.
Best Approach
Where sacrifices are involved, beware of trying to have your cake and eat it, too. Likewise, be careful of fantasy decision-making. ("He's not right for me, but if I commit, he'll change.")
All the options have unpleasant consequences (like choosing between keeping silent or speaking up about a family secret, that some relatives don't know about -- but perhaps should).
Best Approach
Listen to your heart: In the end, which decision will be the easiest to live with?
The consequences are unclear (as in the case of whether or not to have a risky operation).
Best Approach
Fully explore the ramifications of making the choice now versus putting it off. Don't decide until you absolutely have to.
Learn how to approach your choices in this three-step plan
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Hidden Gem – The Blue Light Pub in Dublin
August 15, 2010 | Nightlife, Travel Tips | Read MoreWithout doubt one of my favourite spots for a pint in Dublin. It is an unpretentious local pub that is authentic without trying to be, like some other touristy pubs in the area. The Blue Light Pub is located high up in the foothills of the Dublin Mountains. It boasts spectacular views from its car...


text: Spend time thinking through the first day from beginning to end. Make sure your children have all the supplies they need, and try to encourage them to eat good breakfasts (which may not be easy if there are too many butterflies in their tummies!). Arrive early to school to give your child a chance to remember where everything is and to see their new classroom. When it's time to leave, don't linger. Just look your children in the eyes, give them big hugs and send them on their way to a great school year! Get more back-to-school advice: 38 ways parents can get involved in the classroom What teachers want parents to know 6 important people to know at your child's school |


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Professor Michael Mann, the inventor of the Hockeystick temperature graph, had a contentious
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On October 15, 2013, the US Supreme Court (SCOTUS) granted 'Certiorari' to Petitioners who have been suing the EPA over regulations to control CO2. In 2007, SCOTUS had ruled that CO2 may be c
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S. Fred Singer
August 20, 2013
The false "hockeystick" graph with which (in 2001) the UN climate panel claimed that current surface t
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S. Fred Singer
April 23, 2013
An editorial essay by American Chemical Society (ACS) officers Bassam Shakhashiri and Jerry Bell (Science 5 Apri
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FDA's Medical Device ID System Still Inactive
Childs says the delay is "probably incompetence" at the overworked and underfunded FDA, aggravated by inertia at the White House's Office of Management and Budget.
"How can it take five years to get a proposed rule out on something that has been used in commerce in this country for 40 years?" Childs asks. "It can't be that difficult."
The answer is probably rooted in the fact that there are no demonstrable hospital fatalities from medical devices lacking serial numbers today. It could be front-page news tomorrow, however. We live in the age of product recalls. The medical device market, valued at $106 billion in 2011 by market intelligence firm Espicom, isn't immune from those recalls. And given the rapid growth of the industry, more are likely.
Just as Wal-Mart had to dictate bar code identifiers to its suppliers, so it would appear that a government-mandated unique ID for devices was economically necessary to move an industry. It would have been nice if the device industry had managed to "get 'er done" without federal legislation. But that ship has sailed.
Now, to force the issue, Premier and its allies have introduced new legislation to do something that should have done in the original bill: legislation governing the law's implementation.
"We tried to get a deadline on it that says it needs to be done in two years or something like that, but we weren't able to because of objections by the device industry, so we are now waiting," Childs says. "It's literally been five years. It boggles the brain."
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See http://www.debian.org/ for information about Debian GNU/Linux.
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Untested candidate packages for future releases.
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China: More Censorship and Arrests on the Anniversary of Tiananmen
Tuesday morning, police detained and interrogated some Hong Kong reporters trying to tape the flag-raising ceremony in Tiananmen Square. Their equipment was seized and the recorded material was deleted
The Mothers of Tiananmen were not allowed to honor the memory of their killed children. Hong Kong journalists were stopped in the square. Words and images of candles that refer to the day of the massacre were censored online. In Hong Kong, more than 100,000 people expected at vigil.
BEIJING, China (AsiaNews) - Chinese police were hard at work to stop and restrict activists, dissidents and journalists, by blocking any prayer or act of remembrance dedicated to the massacre of 4 June 1989, including on the internet.
Tuesday morning, police detained and interrogated some Hong Kong reporters trying to tape the flag-raising ceremony in Tiananmen Square. Their equipment was seized and the recorded material was deleted.
Zhang Xianling, from the group 'Mothers of Tiananmen', an organisation that represents the relatives of the young people killed by army tanks on that fateful day, said that at least ten police officers were deployed around her house compared to only three or four police in previous years.
Although they prevented the cleaning lady from entering, she said she would do anything to honour her 19-year-old son Wang Nan in the square where he was killed.
Group founder Ding Zilin said she was warned that she would not be allowed to go to Mixidi, near Tiananmen Square, to honour with flowers her son who was killed at the age of 17.
Dissident Hu Jia, who has served three and a half years in prison for posting articles on the internet, was followed from Beijing to Guangzhou. He wanted to return to the capital by 2 June, but was prevented because he constituted a "security risk."
Heavy-handed pressure and censorship have not spared the web. On Sina Weibo, words like 'candle' and 'square' are off-limits in search engines when users tried to express their participation in the memory of Tiananmen by posting the picture of a candle.
Despite the restrictions, many did find a way to commemorate the massacre through veiled references. For instance, the number '64', which refers to June 4, has become the most clicked term on search engines.
Meanwhile, in Hong Kong, many groups, especially young people (pictured), are preparing a vigil in memory of the martyrs of Tiananmen. Organisers hope to attract more than 100,000 people.
One of the leaders, Lee Cheuk-yan, said that this year Hong Kongers should repeat their demand for justice on behalf of the fallen of Tiananmen and show their pain to President Xi Jinping, who seems be following an even more authoritarian path than his predecessor Hu Jintao.
Keywords: Tiananmen, Wang Zhicheng, china, repression, massacre, human rights, mainland china
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9 months ago
Good that people be informed of what happened 24 years ago on June 4th in Tiananmen Square. That is the bad news.
The good news is the great work being done to proclaim the Gospel in China today. The Chinese young priests and religious sisters now doing graduate studies in the United States are examples of faith, hope and love. When they return to China, as many have, their work of evangelization requires great courage. In my conversations with them, they spend little time saying anything negative about their government, not because they fear their government, but because they are focused on the good news. They talk lot about their mission in the Catholic Church in China, a mission to form communities of disciples of Jesus Christ in Catholic Churches all over China. Yes, there are all kinds of road blocks, but as one sister told me: "There is so much we can do, why focus on what we can't do?"
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The Tories have money on their side, and lots of it. They are a powerhouse when it comes to grassroots fundraising, outperforming both the NDP and Liberals by far. In 2012 alone, when one would expect fundraising dollars to be on the low side, the Tories raked in $17.3 million from 87,306 contributors.
After news that Harper intervened in Mike Duffy's expense scandal, I watched CBC's "The National" with Peter Mansbridge. Mansbridge was positively gleeful as he reported how Duffy had implicated Harper. Finally Mansbridge and the CBC had Harper, the bane of CBC's existence, on the proverbial ropes. But if you look at the facts objectively, rather than through a visceral anti-Harper prism, it becomes clear that Harper is blameless. I predict the prime minister will ride out this Ottawa-centric media blip. And emerge stronger and more politically powerful than ever.
When Quebec Premier Pauline Marois launched her Charter of Quebec Values last week, she fully expected that there would be adverse reaction from Liberal Leader Trudeau, NDP Leader Mulcair and from the federal Conservatives. In fact she counted on exploiting negative feedback in persuading French Quebec that the rest of English Canada was unwilling to support Quebec's national identity as a secular French state. And that Quebec independence was Quebec's only real option to realize and preserve its true and unique identity. What Marois and her band of provocateurs did not contemplate, was harsh and stinging criticism from French Quebec sovereigntists, in her own backyard, to her nefarious proposal.


text: Heart-Healthy Family Diet TipsMake healthy eating a family affair — and protect everyone's heart in the process.By Karen AspMedically reviewed by Rosalyn Carson-DeWitt, MD As the saying goes, you are what you eat. So when it comes to boosting heart health, your diet plays an essential role. That's why eating an unhealthy diet that's high in saturated fats, trans fats and sodium significantly increases your chances of developing high blood pressure, high cholesterol, and cardiovascular disease. And conversely, eating a diet of nutrient-rich foods will help keep your heart in shape and rev up your overall health. So how can you make your diet more heart-friendly and still please your family's taste buds? Fortunately, all you need to do is make a few simple tweaks. Replace processed with fresh. First, eliminate — or, at the very least, limit — processed foods like chips, cookies, and crackers, which are often loaded with fats, sodium, and other unhealthy ingredients. Stock your kitchen with whole grains, fruits, and vegetables instead. "Unlike processed foods, these whole foods provide an abundance of disease-fighting properties that reduce heart disease risk," says Sari Greaves, RD, CDN, New York City–based spokesperson for the American Dietetic Association and dietitian at Step Ahead Weight Loss Center in Bedminster, N.J. The bonus? Whole foods are usually low in calories but high in fiber, so they'll fill you up on fewer calories — which could help you maintain or lose weight. One caveat: When buying whole-grain foods like cereals or breads, make sure the label says "whole" and each serving contains at least three grams of fiber.Related: Avoid These 10 High-Cholesterol Foods Bulk up on lean protein. Protein is also an important part of any diet. "You get valuable nutrients from protein, and some sources like fish may even protect against heart disease," Greaves says, adding that protein can also help you feel more satisfied, reducing your urge to nibble later. Healthy protein sources include lean cuts of meat; such as skinless chicken breasts; fish, especially fatty fish like salmon, tuna, and herring; low-fat dairy products; eggs; nuts; nut butters; beans; lentils; and tofu. Caution: Protein sources can be high in calories, so don't go overboard. "Think of protein as an accompaniment to a meal," Greaves says. For optimal heart benefits, eat six to eight ounces of fish per week. Greaves even recommends going meatless two days a week. Watch those fats. Why worry about saturated fats? Plain and simple, they're bad for your heart. "They can raise your cholesterol, which increases your risk for heart disease and stroke," Greaves says. You'll find saturated fats mainly in animal products, so veer toward lean cuts of red meat (look for words like round, loin, sirloin, or 90 percent lean), low-fat cheeses, and low-fat or skim milk. Trans fats are also dangerous to your heart, as they raise harmful LDL cholesterol levels, lower good HDL cholesterol levels, and increase your risk of heart disease. They're usually found in fried foods; processed baked goods like cookies, pie crusts, and pastries; and stick margarines and shortenings. You can spot them by looking for the words "partially hydrogenated oil" on the ingredient list. Your body, though, does need fat, so focus on monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats, both of which can boost heart health. Look for them in peanut butter; fatty fish; vegetable oils like olive, canola, and peanut; avocados; nuts; and seeds.Related: A Heart-Friendly Lifestyle Practice portion control. Watch those portions, or you could risk gaining weight. One portion of meat, for instance, is three ounces, or about the size of a deck of cards; a serving of nuts is an ounce, or about a handful. To make it easier to eat less, use smaller bowls and plates. Then split your plate into four quadrants, Greaves says. Fill half your plate with veggies. Divide the other half between protein and starches like brown rice or whole-wheat pasta. Adopt heart-smart cooking techniques. Finally, know that how you prepare meals can affect how heart-friendly they are. Baking, broiling, and roasting are the healthiest options, while frying, especially in butter, is one of the least heart-friendly cooking methods. And rather than seasoning your meals with salt, try replacing it with herbs and spices like oregano, curry powder, and thyme. It may take a little effort to make these switches, but the long-term payoff — your family's health — will be well worth it! Last Updated: 06/14/2011 | Next Article: #Healthtalk: All About Afib » More Heart Health Heart Health Information Prevention Diagnosis Treatment Management Chest Pain Articles in Heart Health Management Sex After a Heart Attack Dining Out After a Heart Attack Making Sense of Your Calcium Score Cholesterol: How Low Should It Go? Protect Your Heart: Stress-Busting Strategies Heart-Healthy Family Diet Tips The Heart Attack-Depression Link Heart-Friendly Exercise Advice Follow-Up Care After a Heart Attack Preventing Clogged Blood Vessels After Bypass Surgery Planning a Heart-Healthy Vacation Heart-Smart Travel Tips Should You Be Taking Heart Medications? 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An engineering mom leads effort to save an old-growth Russian forest
Yevgenia Chirikova found out a national forest was quietly being sold off. What she did to try to save it may change Russia forever.
(Page 3 of 3)
"We've raised consciousness about this issue. The whole conversation about projects like this around the country has changed," Chirikova says. "We're going to keep struggling and trying to save as much of the forest as possible. We're far from beaten."
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Chirikova, backed by other Russian civil society activists, including experts at the anti-corruption group Transparency International, argues that the Khimki Forest route has always been about corruption. The publicly owned forest lands were sold off to commercial interests for logging and road-building by officials who earned huge profits but whose names remain shrouded in secrecy.
"This road project makes no sense in any practical way," Tsiplenkov says. "It can only be explained by corruption."
Last December, after widespread complaints about vote-rigging in elections for the Duma (parliament), tens of thousands of people took to the streets – repeatedly, over a period of three months – to protest Russia's heavily manipulated political system and to demand that Mr. Putin reconsider his determination to run for a third term in presidential elections that took place in March. (Putin won.)
Chirikova was at the center of that mass protest movement and hailed as one of its leaders, a role she readily accepted.
"You can thank Putin for my transition from local environmentalism to national politics," Chirikova says. "Our country has a resource-based economy, where people with power basically cash in those resources and bank their profits offshore.
"You can fight this in your own backyard, or on a central square in Moscow. Khimki Forest is just one small part of a very big picture."
Learn more / Get involved
• Yevgenia Chirikova shares the 2012 Goldman Environmental Prize, awarded April 16, with five other activists around the world. Her Facebook page (in Russian) is facebook.com/4irikova. Her e-mail address is email@example.com.
• The official website (in Russian) of Yevgenia Chirikova's group, Defenders of the Khimki Forest, is www.ecmo.ru.
• A summary (in English) of the independent report on the Khimki Forest toll road (cited in this article) can be found here.
• The Norwegian environmental group Bellona covers environmental issues in Russia, including the Khimki Forest, and maintains offices in St. Petersburg and Murmansk.
• Greenpeace Russia maintains an extensive website in English that follows environmental issues in Russia, including oil exploration in the Arctic Ocean and the North Sea, as well as the controversy at Khimki Forest.
• Sign up to receive a weekly selection of practical and inspiring Change Agent articles by clicking here.


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by Joyce Lee
I had a last minute invite to do a demo in Cedar City, UT on June 21st 2012, Longest day of the year!
I went willingly because I love to share Solar Cooking and also I was hoping to escape the intense summer heat in my hometown, since Cedar is usually 10 degrees cooler than here.
Road construction in 2 different places slowed me down considerably so I didn't arrive with much time to get all the cookers set out and food prepped.
One of the items on the menu was corn on the cob and since I knew I'd be pressed for time, I pulled off the hair poking out of the tops of the husks and put the 12 ears of corn husk on and all in my Sport oven in the back of my truck. I had the sun behind me most of the way up and without reflectors, the Sport was at 200 by the time I arrived at my destination. This really cut down on the time it took to finish after I got to the Demo.
I got everything set up and food in with only 2 1/2 hours to cook for 30-40 people. We had Italian Meatball Sandwiches on rolls (the meatballs were still half frozen when I got there so I cut them in quarters before putting the sauce on to make sure they cooked thoroughly.), Corn on the cob, Party baked beans,Chicken and Rice and Lemon Glazed Cake. It was a pretty ambitious menu for cooking that late in the afternoon for that many.
Surprisingly, hardly anyone there had ever seen Solar Cooking, and most assumed that all you could do with Sunshine is warm up already cooked food.
That really fired up my "passion" button and by the end everyone there knew how and why and where to use a Solar Cooker and how tasty the reward for doing so is! Including the Dutch Oven Chef who was there doing dutch oven potatoes and fruit cobblers.
It was a yummy fun time for us all!
Sounds Like you were out to get people "fired" up with your enthusiasm for Solar Cooking...and the best way to do that is a hands on demo.
Thanks Joyce
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We are excited to announce an important new initiative to better prepare graduate students at the chemistry-biology interface for various career paths, including those in the corporate world. The inaugural Career Development Conference at the Chemistry-Biology Interface will take place at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, including nearly 100 top-ranking graduate students from 10 institutions throughout the Midwest (Illinois, Wisconsin, Michigan, Vanderbilt, Kansas, Northwestern, Chicago, Ohio State, Notre Dame, and Minnesota) and over 30 expert mentors from academia, industry, government, and non-traditional fields.
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