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|Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
|YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
|Joe Herbst and friends
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|Submitted By:
|blackflyrancher on Apr 24, 2005
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
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By Michael Allen
Jan 22, 2006
I climbed this route a couple months ago and thought I could add a few comments to clarify the descent beta.
1) The new Brock/McMillen guide book says, "Rappel the backside of the boulder, and then rappel the route in three rappels using 2 ropes."
2) The Swain book says you can rappel the route with 1 rope, but his description of how to do it was not very helpful, although I cannot say it isn't possible. But having climbed and rappeled the route I'm still not sure exactly how to understand his descent instructions. (Maybe this is more an indication of my intellectual abilities than it is an indictment of the Swain book's descent beta.)
3) The first sentence of the descent info, in the description on this site, is accurate if you're using at least a 60 meter rope. "Rap the route with one rope."
4) This is what we did with one 60 meter rope. From the P3 anchors rap to the P2 anchors. From the P2 anchors rap to the P1 anchors. From the P1 anchors rap back down to the base of the climb. (P.S. The rap from the P1 anchors back to the ground is a full 30 meters so a 60m rope just barely reaches.)
Anyhow I hope this info helps others who, like me, hate to haul two ropes up a climb when only one is necessary for the rappel. The overall experience of climbing any given route can be made much more enjoyable if the descent is as fast and easy as possible.
By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nyc
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
i thoguht this route was a lot of fun. unique summit for red rocks. surely, it was just as fun as johnny vegas, if you're willing to do the dicey upper pitches. personally, i thought p3 was probably 5.6ish R straight up to the boulder, on steep iffy rock with no pro (serious feeling) or something like 5.3 R trending right to the shoulder and traversing back left to the bolts (not so serious feeling). then p4 was way dicey, as if a hold breaks or you burn out there is little pro, none of which is great, and you'll deck onto the sub-summit ledge. i definitely call it 5.9 R, but then- im a pansy. you may not be. the bolt is not a 1/4", but the rusty hanger is old school and the combo is not awe inspiring. you can get a decent cam in at the same place to back it up. not really much else in the way of pro.
the rap- single rope raps on every pitch. there is an anchor (good looking bolts and some slings and rings) on a hanging belay slightly up and right of the p2 anchor (further right than the friar route) which shouldnt distract you. there is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY you can rap from p2 to the ground on one 60. we rapped from p1 with a 60 and had about 10' rope on the ground. its possible swain (or whoever) rapped from p3 to the lower anchor out right (off friar route) and from that you might just barely be able to get to a ledge off the ground on a 60 with rope stretch, but it is untested and it'll be a headache so dont do it..
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 18, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Really fun route- the bolt on the 4th pitch is hard to see from below, but generally, climb the obvious jugs, then cut right to a stance. From there, straight up to the top!
Beware: this route, while pretty sweet, it probably not for the beginning 5.9 leader- the last pitch is pretty spicy at the grade.
By calicodan
Nov 9, 2009
|A great climb for the grade. Follow the original Red book description and it goes slightly different. Pitch three heads up RIGHT (plenty of protection) and goes under the right side of the friars cap. The original descent only takes one rope and used to go down the steep wall and gully to the north of the friars tower. Step across the gap and look for the anchors (slings - used to be OK when it was kept up). One single rope rappel takes one into the gully and a little hiking down to one short rap off a tree and to the base. More adventuresome (old school) and it avoids having to rap back down the route if others are climbing.
By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Dec 1, 2009
|I went left instead of right on the last pitch, basically following chalked holds... so I ended up doing an overhanging corner that felt like a 5.10c R with really bad gear... does anybody know anything about this variation?
By R.Walters
Apr 2, 2010
Great route, Great description!
Single 60m gets down in 4 raps
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Dec 2, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
It appears that the beta for this route should be taken seriously. Especially Anthony's. Tragic accident. A hold broke on P3 and the unprotected fall killed someone on this route.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Dec 12, 2011
|Based upon this tragic event (see link above), should the rating be upgraded from R to X?
By slim
Dec 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
|you haven't done the route, but feel that it certainly should be R?
By Cunning Linguist
Dec 17, 2011
I HAVE climbed the route, but it seems like the "haven't climbed it but I'm in agreement with the in-crowd" have the info on this one on lockdown, so I'm going to post a grade confirmation on Dreamcatcher .14d in Squamish because I'm sure Sharma knows what he's talking about.
Ridiculous. If you're a 5.10 climber and have a pair, climb this thing and make up your own mind. Otherwise, I hear posting fan mail to routes you've never booted up for is what the cool kids are doing this season.
Any opinions about the bolting on Silbergier? The condition of the trenched heads on Intifada?
Edit to add: an anonymous climber confirmed the danger rating on the route without having ever climbed it, hence slim's comment and my rant. Comments by the non-ticker removed.
By maggie-girl Wenski
Mar 6, 2012
Beautiful route! (If you can find the gear and holds that are in the "good" rock).
p4 was the most solid rock of the climb- great nuts/small cams in patinas along with the old bolt. The rap anchor on the top is in need of some help; we left our cordelette.
If the FA party would put a bolt on the p3 face, this climb would be 5 stars; those ledges are way too close to be dealing with the run out on friable rock. HUGE rap anchors already there, why not a bolt? Recommend building a belay at top of p2 over the first ledge past rap anchor so you can see you leader on p3.
Great approach trail; easy/quick to the start.
Fun, thoughtful climbing with a bolted rap anchor at the top of each pitch. But, probably won't go back to it until a bolt appears protecting the run-out of p3. Feel like we got lucky once (no holds broke), no need to press our luck.
By danny rider
Mar 6, 2012
|This is a great route to do even if you do just the first three pitches. All of the rap bolts were added long after the first ascent. The original descent was off the backside into the gully with one rappel and some downclimbing. (See post above) The original line up pitch three goes up and right around the east side of the perched summit block. It takes plenty of gear (sixteen pieces last count) and is not the serious ending that many are experiencing. The rap bolts are for rapping and do not define the path of climbing. If done in the original way, it makes for the pleasant outing that it seems to be.
By maggie-girl Wenski
Mar 25, 2012
|Going up and right on the 3rd pitch to the gully didn't even come to mind. All the topos we looked at showed the route going up and left under the summit block... Interesting. Have to look at that next time.
By Vince Neil
May 3, 2012
This is a high quality outing. Unfortunately I was intimidated by the athletic moves required to send the last pitch and spent WAY too much time trying to find the right size piece to shove in that little hole...finally found it and traversed over to the arete where, pumped out, I promptly whipped off. The little piece held and the swing was clean and not close to the ledge...Next time I will try the relaxed, confident approach instead of the "I'm a frightened weakling" approach. Good quality climbing for sure.
By Royal
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Jan 16, 2015
|I was able to rap the route with a 60 meter with no problems. The first pitch is quite good and on the third pitch there are two moves of amazing hand crack, other than that, it's nothing special till the summit block which is the real deal. I'll admit the summit block scared me but it was really, really good climbing - totally classic. Improbable, athletic, dangerous. A budding 5.9 leader would be asking to get hurt / die if the jumped on it IMHO. The route shouldn't change though, it's supposed to be dangerous. I felt I was just at the right level to do it - I wouldn't have wanted to be any weaker. For comparison, I've recently onsight soloed solar slab, onsighted mushroom people, and onsighted straight shooter. I'm a 10b/c sport leader in RR. Be safe and have fun on this one folks!
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Apr 25, 2015
This route is fun and worth doing once. The first pitch is great, the rest are nothing special but they get you to a cool summit. The third pitch is probably more X than R. Easy climbing on bad rock with no pro.
The 4th pitch is intimidating but can be adequately protected. Before you start climbing place a #3 in good rock above to protect the first couple of burly moves. Once you establish a stance on the wall you can place a small nut in solid rock above your head to protect the short rightward traverse around the arete to a mini ledge. Once on the ledge the pitch is basically over. Clip the old rusty bolt, back it up with a 0.75 in a slot above and pull the 5.7 moves to the summit.


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A Sauk Rapids man was arrested early Tuesday morning in Big Lake Township following a pursuit with deputies and two additional police agencies.
A deputy sheriff attempted a traffic stop with the driver of an alleged stolen van at about 5:20 a.m. in Zimmerman. The driver refused to stop, however, and led police on a pursuit in which speeds reached 90 m.p.h., according to Sherburne County Sheriff Joel Brott.
A PIT maneuver by a deputy brought the pursuit to a safe conclusion near the intersection of County Road 14 and Highway 10 in Big Lake Township, Brott said. Barton Roberts, 48, was arrested and was held for charges including fleeing police in a motor vehicle, possession of a controlled substance, and possession of stolen property.
Officers from Big Lake and Elk River assisted in the arrest and no injuries occurred.
(Editor's note: The PIT maneuver, or precision immobilization technique, is a pursuit tactic by which a pursuing car can force a fleeing car to abruptly turn sideways, causing the driver to lose control and stop.)

subset: commoncrawl


text: The Galaxy S III has overtaken Apple's iPhone 4S for the first time ever to become the top selling smartphone for Q3 2012, according to Strategy Analytics. Samsung shipped 18 million copies of its handset during the quarter, compared to Apple's 16.2 million iPhone 4S units. But since the iPhone 5 launched at the end of the period the new phone probably cannibalized 4S sales. The market research firm thinks the new iPhone will beat Samsung in Q4.


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Panel backs plan for nuclear waste disposal near Lake Huron
Company officials say the material has been stored above ground since the 1960s and needs a permanent resting place.
Company officials say the material has been stored above ground since the 1960s and needs a permanent resting place.
Dr. Christopher Liebig, said over the past decade, the number of emergency room visits for teenagers with head injuries has tripled.
Once the city's investigation is complete, they may be looking to change the plant's method of handling waste water.
The 26th annual Strimbu BBQ was held at Yankee Lake Ballroom on Wednesday night.
The store will take over space currently occupied by Giant Eagle.
The redesign is aimed at giving the Chevrolet Cruze a sleeker look.
Waters was fired in July after an internal investigation concluded he had ignored a "sexualized culture" within the band.
Snoop Dogg posted a photo to Instagram with Department of Public Safety Trooper Billy Spears in March with the comment "Me n my deputy dogg.…
Second Harvest officials said one in six people in our area struggle with hunger, including one in four children.
The Republican governor will be in the early-voting state Thursday and Friday for a series of events and meet-and-greets.
BNSF vice president Mike Trevino says two cars continue to burn Wednesday evening.
Deputies found ID cards, uniforms and vehicles that looked like law enforcement vehicles along with other official police equipment.
For years, the city of Campbell has seen its share of problems, but the mayor is hoping things may finally be turning around.
Concerns have been raised about the threat of terrorist activity by U.S. individuals inspired by the propaganda of the Islamic State group.
Just 220 votes was all the difference between the winning and losing candidate in Tuesday's primary election.
Former Penn State assistant football coach Jerry Sandusky says the criminal proceedings violated his constitutional rights
One bill would allow concealed weapons in certain places as long as written authorization permitting the concealed carry of handguns is in p…
Climate change and higher levels of nutrients such as phosphorus may be culprits in a rising number of algae contamination cases.
Police Chief Calvin Williams says the suspect was arrested Wednesday and is being questioned by police and county prosecutors.
CEO John Lowe says the company estimates it will spend about $200,000 on changes to make sure it doesn't happen again.
Robert Davis is taking a job in Cleveland , but he said he will remain involved in the Warren community.
Police said the chase began at Packard Park at 1:30 a.m.
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Is It Ok to Wear a Corset Along With/over the Top of my Compression Garment.
Can I Wear a Corset with my Compression Garment?
Doctor Answers 2
Wearing a corset over a compression garment following a tummy tuck
In some instances wwearing a corset over a tummy tuck may cause increased swelling of the lower abdomen which may not be desireable for wound healing. Discuss the exact type of the garment with your surgeon or his/her staff.
Learn more: http://www.bodysculptor.com/body-surgery-chicago/tummy-tuck/
Excessive Compression and Tummy Tuck
No. A compression garment or binder is used to support the skin and give mild to moderate compression. A corset over top of the garment would apply excessive pressure to the skin and may cut off the circulation leading to non healing wounds and/or skin loss.
Dr. ES
These answers are for educational purposes and should not be relied upon as a substitute for medical advice you may receive from your physician. If you have a medical emergency, please call 911. These answers do not constitute or initiate a patient/doctor relationship.


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Halloween can be a pretty odd, scary, and admittedly fun holiday sometimes, but let's be real, sometimes that ain't so great for the little ones. Luckily the Tampa Bay area has a handful of safe Halloween events for kids and adults alike. Here are a few.
St. John's Fall Fest - This family-friendly Halloween event boasts a ton of attractions for kids at a super-affordable price. Pay $5 and get in to this event at St. John's Greek Orthodox Day School (2418 Swann Avenue). Attractions include face painting, trick or treat opportunities, carnival games, a bounce house, haunted house, and more. Fall Fest falls on Saturday, October 15.
Hyde Park Village Fall Festival - Let the kids test out their costumes and bring them to this family-friendly event at Hyde Park Village. Enjoy trick or treating, a bounce house, face painting, and live music performance by Mr. Richard on Saturday, October 15.
Guppyween - Explore the wide array of exhibits and cool, aquatic animals at the famous Florida Aquarium while feeling the Halloween spirit all throughout the place. Suit up the kids in their favorite costumes and bring them to the aquarium to trick or treat, enjoy kid-friendly entertainment, and more on Sunday, October 23.
Green Halloween Tampa - Green Halloween is a halloween event with an environmentally and kid friendly twist. Kids can enjoy a healthy trick or treat parade with reusable bags to collect their loot. Vendors and more will be on hand to promote green initiatives for Halloween. It all goes down at Whole Foods on Dale Mabry on Saturday, October 29.
What's Halloween for the kids without some Halloween treats? There are several websites featuring Halloween recipes and ideas for putting some holiday spook in the kitchen. Here are a few of our favorites:
Halloween Recipes from Disney
Food Network's Halloween Recipes
Hershey's Halloween Crafts and Candy
Treats, Party Bags, Crafts and More from Parents.com
For more information on Local happenings in Tampa, check out our Halloween Tampa Guide


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Is There Any Value in a Simple Elevator Pitch for Enterprise-Grade Technology?
An executive-level elevator pitch is the cornerstone of sales in most industries. To pitch your company's vision and selling prop without mentioning any specific customers of verticals, while still capturing your listener's ear, is the first key step to any sale. You need to convey who your company is, why… Read More →
E3 and The Big Three: TIBCO Spotfire and the 1980 Boston Celtics
The NBA is starting up again. The Boston Celtics have had a great team over the history of the NBA, but in 1980, General Manager "Red" Auerbach, saw an opportunity to put together a solid team like no other. Through shrewd draft picks and a trade, three future Hall of… Read More →
Some folks may have noticed some changes in the TIBCO corporate website, including various references to some of the TLAs in the above expression: 2-Second Advantage or 2SA: a business competitive enabler, achieved by exploiting E3. Event Enabled Enterprise or E3: an IT compliance requirement for real-time business support, requiring… Read More →


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KFC Unveils Original Recipe Corsage For Prom [Video]
This looks pretty tasty. Will someone please ask me to prom?
I'm thinking that this should be a wrist corsage…
Just in time for this year's prom season, KFC has teamed up with a florist to make a corsage that will make a very unique fashion statement.
The $20 corsage features a freshly fried, original flavor KFC drumstick nestled in a bed of baby's breath flowers, and includes a $5 coupon good for a future drumstick of any flavor.
As you might expect, guys are very unhappy that KFC did not offer a similar boutonniere.
Is this corsage a fresh take on baby's breath and sweet heart roses or a little too off the wall?
See KFC's commercial for their unique prom corsage below.
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RICHMOND (WRIC) – The Richmond Police Department needs help identifying and
find the man who robbed the SunTrust Bank at 3022 W. Broad St.
Thursday afternoon.
At approximately 3:36 p.m., a man walked into the
bank and passed the teller a note demanding money, but did not display a
handgun. He left on foot in an unknown direction.
The suspect is approximately six feet tall and weighs 180
pounds. He has a goatee and was seen wearing a white shirt, grey sweatpants and
a black hat with a gold sticker.
Anyone who has any information about the identity of this
man is asked to call Crime Stoppers at 780-1000.
Copyright 2013 by Young Broadcasting of


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Dell Soaking up AMD Processors
Subject: Processors | January 3, 2006 - 11:13 AM | Ryan Shrout
It looks like the AMD processor sales on Dell's website is starting to have an adverse affect on the rest of AMD's distribution channel.
Last year we reported that Dell was flogging AMD chips on its web site and it appears to be doing quite well. We're still totally unsure whether these chips are sourced through traditional AMD distributors like Avnet or whether Dell has a special deal with the firm to flog them. AMD is expected to rebound with additional stocks before the end of this month.
One major distributor told his reseller customers that AMD processors are still in shortage because of Dell, but it still has bits and pieces to sell. This could be sour grapes on the major distributor's part — Dell has never been flave of the day in the channel.
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Explore the Tweets They Didn't Want You to See
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Laura Richardson (D-Calif.)
OGR passes on #GOP GRANT bill. Forces federal grantees to post full R+D proposals online. Would compromise IP & let China steal IP
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Access to health care is critical for folks in rural Georgia. Glad vets in Statesboro will get an VA Outreach Clinic #NationalRuralHealthDay
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Lamb Shank at Niko Niko's
The Food Network's hugely successful show Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives recently visited Niko Niko's Greek restaurant in Montrose. Amidst owner Dimitri Fetokakis's banter with hyper host Guy Fieri was this little nugget of information: Niko Niko's no longer slow-marinates its legendary lamb shank. Rather, it uses a new-fangled "food tumbler" which claims to achieve 24 hours worth of marinating in 20 minutes.
That's a big difference. I've been going to Niko Niko's for at least 15 years, starting back when Dimitri's mom ran the shop and Dimitri would occasionally deliver food on air to the Stevens and Pruitt radio show when KLOL was housed in an old house nearby on Lovett Boulevard. Since then, the restaurant has expanded greatly, taking over most of the block at Montrose and California Street. All positive changes, I'd say, but now they're marinating the lamb shank for only 20 minutes? I decided to check it out.
If you're unfamiliar with the lamb shank at Niko Niko's, there are a few things you should know. First, the dish is ginormous. Two lamb shanks are hidden under a heaping pile of potatoes, fries or rice. An accompanying Greek salad is big enough to be a meal on its own. The price matches the size: $17 with tax and tip. For lunch, two people could easily fill up on one order.
Taste-wise, Fieri is right on when he says this shank is "citrus forward," meaning that the lemon-based marinade is the first and dominating flavor. There's also a good bit of salt here, but neither truly overwhelms the wonderful flavor of the lamb. And after three hours on the oven, the meat is falling off the bone.
Honestly, it's been too long since I've had the lamb shank in the past (I usually get the roast chicken or pasticcio), so I can't say if the current shank is better or worse. There is certainly nothing subtle about its large flavors and portion size, but it makes an ultra-flavorful and ultra-filling lunch or dinner.
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WASHINGTON -- A House committee took a step Thursday toward keeping highway and transit aid flowing to states just three weeks before transportation programs are forecast to go broke. The Senate was expected to take action on a similar measure later in the day.
The Ways and Means Committee approved by a voice vote a bill by its chairman, Rep. Dave Camp, R-Mich., that cobbles together $11 billion in pension tax changes, customs fees and money from a fund to repair leaking underground fuel storage tanks to shore up the federal Highway Trust Fund through May 2015.
Transportation Secretary Anthony Foxx has warned that by the first week in August the fund will no longer have enough money to cover promised aid to states, and the government will begin slowing down payments. The fund is expected to reach a zero balance by the end of August. Some states have already begun to delay or cancel construction project due to the uncertainty of federal aid.
Foxx estimates that letting the account expire will mean 700,000 Americans losing their jobs.
Democrats oppose the Camp plan, saying it allows Congress to put off finding a long-term solution to the chronic money shortage that has kept transportation programs teetering on the edge of insolvency since 2008.
An amendment by Rep. Earl Blumenauer, D-Ore., that would have committed Congress to passing a six-year transportation bill before the end of this year was defeated along party lines.
"It is a mistake to take the pressure off this Congress and kick it down the road," Blumenauer said. Congress will likely have more difficulty reaching an agreement on a long-term plan next year in the partisan atmosphere of a presidential campaign, he said.
But Republicans said more time is needed to reach a long-term solution. Camp said he wanted to fund the program through the end of 2015 to buy even more time to work on a longer-term bill but settled for May because he couldn't find enough money in tax increases or spending cuts.
"A funding package that just goes to the end of 2014 would only create a larger crisis in December," he said.
Earlier this year, Camp rolled out a tax reform plan that included an $126.5 billion, eight-year investment in the Highway Trust Fund but lawmakers dismissed the idea of doing a major tax overhaul before an election.
House Speaker John Boehner, R-Ohio, told reporters he intends to bring the new, short-term bill up for a vote in the House next week. It's not clear, however, whether Boehner has enough votes to pass the measure without Democratic support.
- America's roads are running out of money
- Obama sounds the alarm on looming Highway Trust Fund shortfall
Some GOP conservatives oppose transferring money from the general treasury to transportation programs, saying they want to limit highway and transit spending to money raised by federal gasoline and diesel taxes. The fuel taxes are the Highway Trust Fund's main revenue source, but they haven't been raised in 21 years and aren't keeping pace with spending. Dan Holler, a spokesman for Heritage Action for America, which is influential with conservatives, called the Camp bill a "spend now, pay later" plan.
Democrats and at least one Senate Republican have also criticized the bill for paying for less than a year's worth of transportation spending with revenue that is expected to be collected over the next 10 years.
Senate Finance Committee Chairman Ron Wyden, D-Ore., and the committee's senior Republican, Orrin Hatch of Utah, reached an agreement late Wednesday on a plan that looks much like Camp's, although it relies less on pension tax changes for revenue and more on steps to ensure the earned income and child tax credits are being used only by people who qualify for them.
The key difference is that the Senate plan sets aside money for transportation aid but doesn't extend the government's authority to spend it beyond Oct 1. The Senate Environment and Public Works Committee is responsible for legislation to extend authority for transportation programs, but the committee's chairman, Sen. Barbara Boxer, D-Calif., has been adamant that Congress should pass a six-year transportation spending bill before Dec. 31.
That position is shared by the White House and transportation interest groups, including state and local officials, construction-related industries, transit agencies, labor unions and businesses that say the nation's eroding infrastructure is preventing their products from getting to market and their employees from getting to work.
In a speech last week at the Georgetown Waterfront Park, President Obama pointed to congressional inaction on the Highway Trust Fund as a sign of Republican obstructionism.
"It's not crazy, it's not socialism, it's not the imperial presidency. No laws are broken. We're just building roads and bridges like we've been doing for the last, I don't know, 50, 100 years," Mr. Obama said. "But so far House Republicans have refused to act on this idea. I haven't heard a good reason why they haven't acted. It's not like they've been busy with other stuff. No seriously. I mean they're not doing anything. Why don't they do this?"
The American Society of Civil Engineers recently gave America's infrastructure a D+, estimating the country needs $3.6 trillion in investment by 2020 to get its bridges, roads, schools and other public structures up to snuff.


text:
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text:
|Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
|YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
|Page Views:
|Submitted By:
|C Miller on Feb 22, 2006
Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.MORE INFO >>>
|Comments on Africa Flake
|Add Comment
|Show which comments —
By Jordan K
From: Ohio
Oct 8, 2006
|this is a bolted sport climb, not trad
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007
|This really isn't a sport climb. I think the confusion comes from regarding trad climbs only as those requiring removable gear. But bolts were around long before the term "sport climbing" which generally refers to well-bolted half-pitch routes (i.e. they can be top-roped with a single rope). Although Big Rock has some sport routes (see Let it Bleed and Cheap Thrills) most are closer to traditional slab. Stichter Quits in JTree is all of 150' or so, on 4 bolts. Hardly a sport climb. Africa Flake, although better protected, takes the full 60m passing 6 bolts. A true sport climb generally has a bolt every 6 to 10 feet. Obviously there is some gray area here, but most of these lines on Big Rock are too sparsely bolted to qualify as sport.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007
|Great route, fun lead, best easy line to the top of BR, IMO.
By Gary Schenk
Mar 5, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
|Quite exciting to get to that first bolt.
By Jon Leicht
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|Best route in the grade area on the rock!
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
|A way better route than the one to the left of it, The Trough.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jun 1, 2009
|Easy but love it.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 26, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
|Nice comments Bill. African Flake definitely isn't a sport climb. A loooonnnng fall (broken bones & head injury) from near the top by a climber in the late '80s is evidence of that. Great trad. slab climb.
By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 6, 2012
|Way better than the Trough. My 9 year old daugher loves it!
By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Jan 20, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|Stay left for direct root. Long but easy runout for 40 feet past last bolt to 3 bolt anchor. Need 7 quick draws plus runner/cordelette for anchor. Easy for someone used to slab climbing. Sport and or gym climbers may need to get used to smearing and longer distances between bolts than they're used to. Need almost all of 60 m rope


text: Economy 21 December 2012 Osborne's banking reforms "fall well short of what is required", warn MPs Banks must be broken up if they try to get round the new ring-fence, says the banking standards commission. Sign up for our weekly email * Print HTML When George Osborne appeared before the Parliamentary Commission on Banking Standards last month, he told it not to "tear up" the coalition's proposed financial reforms. But while the commission, which published its first report today, doesn't go that far, it does warn that plans to ring-fence banks' investment arms from their retail divisions "fall well short of what is required". Appearing on the Today programme this morning, Conservative MP Andrew Tyrie, who chairs the commission, criticised Osborne for "watering down" the reforms proposed by the Vickers report. Tyrie is calling for the government to 'electrify' the ring-fence (one might call it the "Jurassic Park solution") by giving regulators the power to break up the banks if they try to evade the new rules. He said: The proposals, as they stand, fall well short of what is required. Over time, the ring-fence will be tested and challenged by the banks. Politicians, too, could succumb to lobbying from banks and others, adding to pressure to put holes in the ringfence. For the ring-fence to succeed, banks need to be discouraged from gaming the rules. All history tells us they will do this unless incentivised not to. That's why we recommend electrification. The legislation needs to set out a reserve power for separation; the regulator needs to know he can use it. Tyrie's words bring him into line with Labour, which has called for the government to hold out the threat of a full Glass-Steagall-style separation if the banks refuse to implement "the spirit and principle of Vickers". Unsurprisingly, then, Ed Balls has given a warm welcome to the commission's report. The shadow chancellor said this morning: "As Ed Miliband and I said at the Labour Conference this year, if the letter and spirit of the Vickers proposals are not delivered and we do not see cultural change in our banks, full separation will be necessary. The Commission is clearly right to say the jury is still out and to demand a reserve power for full separation of the banks. "We need serious cultural change in our banks and the Commission's next report on the culture and practices of the banks will be just as important as these vital structural changes. Only then will we get the banking system our businesses and economy needs." In a banal response, the Treasury has said that "the government is grateful to the Parliamentary Commission on Banking Standards for its scrutiny of the draft bill and notes that it, 'welcomes the government's action to bring forward legislation to implement a ring-fence'." But this rather ignores the fact that the same commission believes that the ring-fence, as currently proposed, is seriously inadequate. Unless Osborne proves willing to toughen his reforms, he will stand accused of failing to learn the lessons from the crash. › Morning Call: pick of the papers Conservative MP Andrew Tyrie warned that "the ring-fence will be tested and challenged by the banks". Photograph: Getty Images. George Eaton is political editor of the New Statesman. Subscribe from just £1 per issue More Related articles No, Virgin Trains East Coast, I will not bid for the "luxury" of first class Here's something the political class has completely missed about Brexit Forget planning for no deal. The government isn't really planning for Brexit at all Subscription offer 12 issues for £12 + FREE book LEARN MORE Close This week's magazine


text: On Jan 23, 2006, at 04:32, David M. Cooke wrote: > Robert Kern <robert.kern <at> gmail.com> writes: > > Evan Monroig wrote: > >> Hi, > >> > >> I have this strange problem that the special erf function > returns NANs > >> when the input is an array: > > > >> scipy is 0.4.4.1526, numpy is 0.9.3.1836, I am running on Mac OS X > >> with MacPython 2.4.1 > >> > >> Can anyone reproduce the problem? > > > > Actually, on OS X, /usr/include/math.h defines an erf() function > that is > > probably getting picked up instead of Cephes's version. Bad Apple! > > Hmm, we've seen this type of problem before, with round(). Cephes > really should use a namespace (cephes_erf() instead of plain erf(), > for instance). > > The least-intrusive patch would be a header with things like > #define erf cephes_erf > then when linking the cephes version will be pulled in. > > I've also just noticed that we're using an older version of Cephes > (release 2.3, Jan. 1995) compared with one on netlib (release 2.9, > Nov. 2000). > > I'll have a look at making a header, and then updating to the latest. I dug this out of the archives from January '06; I'm still getting the same behaviour with python 2.4.3, compiled to Mac OS 10.4.5 with gcc 4.0.1 using scipy 0.5.2.dev2095. I came at it a different way and first discovered that erf(48.0083465504) gives nan. I'm going to tackle David Cooke's suggestion above and was wondering which file the "#define erf cephes_erf" header ought to go in? Also, if anyone knows the current status of this issue, I'd appreciate hearing about that, too. -J


text:
NewswireToday - /newswire/ -
Denver, CO, United States, 2009/08/10 - Sallie Burnett, the president and chief executive officer of Customer Insight Group, Inc., has accepted a part-time teaching position at Denver Universitys Daniels College of Business.
Mrs. Burnett will teach a course on digital marketing to candidates for Masters of Business Administration degrees. I come from a family of educators, my father, aunts, uncles, sister and grandfather are all teachers. In addition, Ive always enjoyed mentoring young colleagues in my business career, said Sallie Burnett. Now, with the time flexibility in managing my own strategic marketing consulting firm, I can use my more than 19 years of strategic CRM, analytic, internet and creative marketing experience to create a valuable learning environment. Digital Marketing is a rapidly-developing discipline area that helps organizations build brand value by leveraging the Internet to harmonize the customers experience.
Burnett has lectured, attended and participated in numerous professional conferences and workshops related multi-channel CRM. She is a digital Marketing expert and thought leader, Content Chair for Online Marketing World national conference, presenter and moderator at Online Market World for topics including email, viral marketing, affiliate marketing, multi-channel loyalty marketing, customer analytics and planning process. CRM and loyalty expert and thought leader, presenter at the Association of National Advertisers, National Center for Database Marketing Conference, National Retail Federation Conference on CRMRetail, the Retail Advertising & Marketing Association Conference, DU Marketing, Roundtable, Rocky Mountain Direct Marketing Association DM Days, Network Affiliates Annual Convention, Customer Relationship Management Conference, and Regis University.
In addition to the part-time teaching position, Burnett and her colleagues at Customer Insight Group, Inc. will continue helping Fortune 500 marketing executives improve the return on their marketing investment by developing and executing high-performing acquisition, loyalty, upgrade and retention programs. Customer Insight Group delivers a broad array of solutions that are customized to address client's goals, objectives and needs. Offering a comprehensive menu of database marketing and customer-centric solutions including strategic consulting, customer research, database management and design, interactive marketing and e-commerce solutions, data analysis, program development, implementation and refinement, including creative and production services for direct marketing communication.
About Customer Insight Group, Inc.
Customer Insight Group, Inc. (customerinsightgroup.com) is a full-service strategic marketing firm helping companies develop and execute high-performing acquisition, loyalty, upgrade and retention programs by leveraging customer behavioral and attitudinal insights. Balancing strategy with creative execution, we create compelling customer-centric programs that reflect our clients brand visions.
Written by / Agency / Source: Customer Insight Group, Inc.
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text:
Interesting bedfellows... RT @BloombergNews: Apple, Google, RIM agree to buy Kodak patents for $525 million | http://t.co/vT8FggM7
Tweet from Corona apps with a single line of code! RT @CoronaLabs: Cool twitter library for Corona by SilverThorax! http://t.co/GjTpvERm
Matthew McConaughey on the set of "Dallas Buyers Club" after losing 30+ pounds for the role of an HIV Positive man http://t.co/xnAwmyMn #wow
HTML5 and CSS3 are some of the hottest growing web development platforms backed by many of the IT titans. It brings with it incredible web browsing experience so much so that every web pundit today predicts that, in a few years down the line, HTML5 will revolutionize the web world.
How does new media work for the brands, businesses and non-profits with whom everyone doesn't already have a seemingly-innate association? Social media primarily increases familiarity with who they are and what they do. Rather than enforcing their brand's identity, they're creating their brand's identity.
My mobile application development philosophy is simple: produce stellar and innovative apps that are designed and developed to enhance user experience, engage your customers, and build your mobile brand.


text:
TAKEAWAY: As we continue work with Oman's Arab language daily, Al Shabiba, we plan to hold a kind of "live" blog event, putting finishing touches on the logo of the newspaper, finishing off other pages, and getting ready for the launch of both Al Shabiba and Times of Oman, April 4. PLUS: Links to interesting weekend reads
TAKEAWAY: As we continue work with Oman's Arab language daily, Al Shabiba, we plan to hold a kind of "live" blog event, putting finishing touches on the logo of the newspaper, finishing off other pages, and getting ready for the launch of both Al Shabiba and Times of Oman, April 4. PLUS: Links to interesting weekend reads
Here we show various scenes of our two-hour discussion all about the "sheen" in Al Shabiba logo today Sunday with CEO Mr. Ahmed (dressed in white at right in most photos)
Sheens by the dozens come out of the calligrapher's brush!
This is still our favorite by Sunday early evening here: tell us what you think
For those now joining thie weekend-long blog conversation: a sheen is the "sh" sound in Arabic, and represented by this character that resembles an upside down C in the Latin alphabet.
We have spent TWO hours today discussing the "sheen" and the calligrapher has gone back to draw many versions, although we still have our heart on the favorite, the one that many of you also say is your favorite. The most conservative elements here think it is too young, that the sheen dances into the page (anything wrong with that?) and that some older, more conservative readers might have an issue with it. We listen and we continue to work on this.
But, as I keep mentioning, the name of this newspaper, Al Shabiba, means The Youth, so a little young dancing on the page may not be a bad idea.
A fascinating aside: we had one version of the "sheen" drawn that, when seen by two Arab readers in the room, appeared to have what one described as a "connotation of evil" simply by the shape of the sheen. We quickly evolved from that one, but it goes to show that dealing with an Arab alphabet presents challenges we never have to worry about with a Latin alphabet, for example. Of course, I have seen Latin fonts where the "q" has connotations of evil, but mostly to the eye. (That's another story, for another blog, for another day).
To be continued.
It takes many hands to create a sheen that hits the spot, as you can see here
I put today's Al Shabiba behind the prototype front page, to see how the new logo would play.
Shakespeare asked "What's in a name?"
I am ready to ask "What's in a sheen?, as in the Arab alphabet "sh" character.
We have spent two hours talking mostly about the sheen and how Arab readers may perceive it.
Of course, changes of logo are never easy, in any alphabet.
Here, we must make sure, as the CEO reminds me "that ministers, intellectuals and older readers don't think that we have a punky version of the newspaper logo. We want it to be modern, but not to dance".
So, during the course of the meeting, with Osama the calligrapher going back and forth, we toil away, and come up with one that may fit all the requirements: young, modern, classic, easy to read, liked by all.
Tall order.
Time for lunch. More to come.
Wow, we think this is it: working around the clock, we now feel confident that this may be it.
These are the finalists presented, from which we all picked the top one: but the last two had something to offer as well. Oh, decisions, decisions
Thinking ahead: a logo becomes a brand that needs to have legs to go beyond the page. How would the logo look on a t-shirt?
Now the calligrapher, Osama Aljawish, returns with refinements of the one "sexy" version of the sheen that we all like. "It is now very easy to read for an Arab reader, but it is also interesting because it could be the stroke of a brush or pen, and that makes it natural," he says proudly.
But Jan Kny, our Garcia Media art director (Garcia Media Europe) points out that the dots are too close to each other , so we ask him to separate him. Jan asks the question: "In Latin alphabets we don't want characters to touch, is that the same in Arabic?"
Osama says that, indeed, characters should not touch, so he goes back to the drawing board and separates them.
I have a feeling we are almost there: this is it. But, of course, the CEO may have a different idea. Stay with us.
It is Sunday and we do final tweaking to the logo as we shall present it to the CEO in two hours.
Designers are busy printing latest versions.
Meanwhile, as we came into the building thru a backdoor today, I noticed a very old Al Shabiba logo still sitting at the top of the door. Here it is. A lot has happened since this version appeared.
We hope to emerge with a very modern one today.
Also, I give you a glimpse of the section fronts for Al Shabiba: opening of Local, Sports, Entertainment, all color coded.
More to come as the day progresses.
Old logo sits at the top of a backdoor; new version (latest one, anyway) below
Prototype pages of Al Shabiba's section fronts: soon to be launched
Final three versions of the day for logo of Al Shabiba: read below for progression of events and how we got here.
Time to close the shop this Saturday, and go for a run on the beach. Here is our final work of the day. The differences here are in the positioning of those dots, or whether they are looking up or down, bunched up or separated. I am told that there is flexibility on how they are utilized.
The calligrapher shows up with a variety of new "sheens" for us to see
Sheen 1 carries a lot of visual impact; but some of the Arab calligraphy experts in the room say: not easy to read
Sheen 2, sexy, but I am told that it is not "Arabic" enough in terms of legibility
So it is 5 pm Saturday and the CEO orders the calligrapher to offer more versions of the "sheen" or SH. We think we like what we already have, but apparently the big boss wants to see other versions. Along the way, we discover at least two that we like out of the various offerings from the calligrapher. See the sheet with all the new "sheens" and then the two we have singled out as having something special. What I call Sheen 1 is , well, sexy——a snake that appears all of a sudden, ready to attack or seduce; Sheen 2 has a sense of order. But, again, my western sensitivities are not what is important here. We continue to consult with the others. Stay tuned.
As we are doing final retouching of the Al Shabiba logo, six days prior to launch, we invite you to come to the blog during the weekend and see where our work takes us
Not easy to recreate Arabic characters, but we give it a try
It is 4:40 in the afternoon, and as I look at the Al Shabiba logo I see that it is 90% of the way there, but something is missing: if we are going to use the "sheen" as a branding visual icon, then we have to tie it back to some element that appears consistently thru the design of the daily. So I take a good look and I see that we have a system of dividing lines. Working with the designer/calligrapher, we go back to the drawing board and add the lines to rest in sort of the bowl or oasis of the sheen, where the name Al Shabiba is spelled in Latin letters. It seems to work, but this is still work in progress.
It is Saturday in hot (try 42C) and sunny Muscat, but we only see the sun thru the windows, as we are diligently working on doing final tweaks to the logo of Al Shabiba. Working with our art director, Jan Kny, plus Adonis Durado, design director for Times of Oman/Al Shabiba, and Nasser Othman and and Osama Aljawish, we sketch, execute, look at it, and go back to the drawing board. The making of the logo involves heavy duty calligraphy, so it is good to have the calligraphers sitting next to us.
I take a long time to draw one Arab character, but I find that it is the best way for me to convey to the calligrapher what I have in mind, and how I wish to proceed.
Then comes the issue of how to take that key letter in the logo, the "sheen" which is sort of like an sh sound, to use as a branding element throughout the newspaper later on. How can one go modern, but not sacrifice the charm of the Arab character in the alphabet. We compromise, we go back to the drawing board. At the end, i ask the Arab language readers in the room to take a look and see what reaction they have in 10 seconds.
We are still going at it, and will keep you updated.
The days when a designer facing the task of redesigning an Arab language newspaper got quickly frustrated over the lack of typographic variety are over. Of course, there are still not as many designers working exclusively on Arab alphabets as we have for Latin fonts. But progress is tremendous, and we now have choices, including for Arab versions of fonts that we are well familiarized with, such as Palatino and Frutiger, among others. This does not mean that one cannot call the local calligrapher to create a customized font. That, I think, will always be a trademark of Arabic language publications generally.
We have had a good, although exhaustive experience, in recreating the logo of Oman's Al Shabiba, which is a project we are currently finalizing to get it ready for an early April launch, the first major graphic/design and typographic change for this daily in decades. Al Shabiba, which means Youth, wants to be truer to its name: it wants to appeal to younger readers member of the Google generation. In our design work, we have not only concentrated on modern and faster navigational tools for each section, but also the creation of a softer, more modern color palette, and, a logo that is more clearly visible and says 2012 at a glance. The font utilized for headlines: Frutiger Arabic (see details below).
But getting here was not easy, and it has taken almost two years (a long, long time for a redesign by today's standards, where a potential client calls and asks if the final product can be delivered four months from today). For Al Shabiba, time has been well spent. This week we give Al Shabiba its final touches, and I plan to blog from here part of the week, with more details about our work on the change for the newspaper's brand, which was done thru the creation of a hand drawn logo. Adonis Dorado , design director for both Al Shabiba and the English-language Times of Oman (which we are also readying for a new design) is working hard on the new logo concepts along with designers Nasser Othman, and Osama Aljawish. I now join them with our Garcia Media Europe art director, Jan Kny, to give it all its final touches.
Discussions of logos such as Al Shabiba are more difficult than when one is looking at the logo in a Latin font. I personally must rely closely on the opinion of the locals here; what do the characters say? Is making one character bigger, or colorizing it, as we do here, going to somehow change the meaning or the perception? Here is one instance when "designing by committee" may be the best idea. We hope that by the end of Monday, we should have agreed on the final Al Shabiba logo!
Evolution of a logo for Al Shabiba, and still tweeking it
One almost final version of the Al Shabiba logo: still work in progress
How logo would fit at the top of Page One in this prototype page
Our intern, Reed Reibstein (Yale University '11) is quite interested in Arab language fonts. He and I often discuss the topic, especially now that he knows I am deeply involved with the launch of Al Shabiba here in Muscat. To that effect, I asked him what he had read recently about the subject of Arab font development. His report is, as usual, complete and with his opinions, which I always find refreshing.
There are many fewer professional Arabic type designers compared to those who work on the Latin script. So while dozens of exquisitely-designed Latin typefaces appear each year, only a small fraction of that number are designed for Arabic. Despite the slower pace of development, several typefaces complete with advanced typographic features, complemented by multiple weights, and suitable for book, poster, and, thankfully, publication design have emerged over the last few years. For the first time, re-thinking a Middle Eastern newspaper or magazine need not mean commissioning custom type—though custom type will often remain the mark of quality Arabic publications for years to come.
Here are a few relatively recent releases that could be of use in a contemporary newspaper or magazine:
Nassim: adapts well to use in small sizes; created for Tasmeem, the plug-in for InDesign ME
Nassim (http://tntypography.com/nassim.html): Nassim was designed to work in small sizes, in a dictionary, say, or newspaper columns—a rare achievement. With five weights and perfectly matched Latin letters, it's almost too good to be true. Perhaps the most exciting aspect of Nassim, however, is that it was designed for Tasmeem, the remarkable plug-in for InDesign ME that brings traditional Arabic calligraphic refinement to typography. Tasmeem really has to be seen to be believed: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-1Y2yndUZQ. Even if implementing Tasmeem in newspaper text is too much to hope for, I would love to see Tasmeem-enabled fonts make an appearance in headlines, a modern version of the calligraphic handwritten headlines that some newspapers once used.
Remember Palatino? Not many designers use it these days, but it may have a vibrant renaissance in Arab language newspapers
Frutiger: the Swiss font that many tabloids of the 80s loved for front page headlines. We use it for Al Shabiba
Palatino Arabic (http://www.linotype.com/286269/palatinoarabic-family.html) and Frutiger Arabic (http://www.linotype.com/270925/frutigerarabic-family.html): While their Latin complements have been around long enough (I have used them repeatedly over the years myself, but not much nowadays), to the Arabic reading world these are brand new looks. And of course the designs themselves are new, designed in the last several years by Nadine Chahine at Linotype in collaboration with both Zapf and Frutiger. "While many newly-designed publications have embraced Kufic-style type for its boldness (akin to a Latin sans-serif), I would love to see the elegant touch of Thuluth that would grace any page set in Palatino Arabic," writes Reed. Chahine recently released her newest face, Neue Helvetica Arabic (http://ilovetypography.com/2009/12/04/neue-helvetica-arabic-wishing-on-a-typeface/).
Neue Helvetica Arabic: the minimalist classic conquers new worlds
Reed says that this begs the question: Who will become the Frank Ariss of the Middle East by designing a grid-based newspaper set entirely in Neue Helvetica Arabic? Ariss, as some may know, revolutionized newspaper design in the late 60s when he created a version of the Minneapolis Tribune that was entirely done in Helvetica. It is still one of my favorite newspaper design experiments. And, who knows? Ariss himself may join forces with a young Arabic designer and create the Arabic version of his legendary US product.
One thing is for sure, many Arab language newspapers are NOW very ready to make design a part of their culture. Much has happened in the past five years in this regard, and I know of several other Arab language dailies considering design changes.
Hungry for the best Arabian food in Muscat, Oman?
Kargeen Caffe, truly authentic, and don't miss those fruit juices as you settle in for your meal
Here are sections of Kargeen Caffe's menu, which, by the way, includes full page advertisements as well (see below)
There are ads in the menu of the Kargeen Caffe—-and a hungry and captive audience to look at them
Here is my Briyani Dajav chicken, which comes in a pot with delicious rice mixed with nuts, and a light, vegetable-based soup with lemmon. For the finish, the ever present sweet dates.
Get to Kargeen Caffe. I paid my second visit to this fascinating and picturesque place today for lunch. I went for dinner before, and the ambience was totally different, a shisha at every table, or should I say cozy tables with see through glass that allows for a peek at the exhibit of artifacts under the glass, and little benches with comfy cushions.
Start with one of those fruit juices or smoothies. I made mine papaya, but my lunch companions opted for other choices, like the strawberry/mango/passion fruit smoothie (complete with some ice cream, and definitely not for those on the pineapple diet), or the antioxidant smoothie, green tea and kiwi, among other things. Go easy on the juice, because you still have those tempting plates of flavourful Hommos Bil Tahina, the moutabel and the Fatil al Bashia, but the winner here is the basket with Kargeen's homemade Filafil special bread.
Kargeen can offer you pasta, pizzas and western style salads, but who wants to do that while sitting in the midst of a room with a lamp that hangs like an upside down barril from the ceiling making even short people like me have to lower our heads as we pass, not to mention the shishas that wrap themselves like snakes around the smokers, spewing out a rich aroma with the smoke that is like a mix of cinnamon, ginger and other spices. The house cat can come by and rub your legs, and if you ask him, he will jump and sit on the cushion next to you.
I am a chicken lover, so I went straight for the chicken dishes (see my meal in photo here), and picked the Briyani Dajav, which comes in a pot with delicious rice mixed with nuts, and a soup that was light enough for lunch in a day when the temperature was very high. Of course, there is a bowl of dates for something sweet after this way too big a meal for lunch. My lunch companions opted for lamb or fish dishes, all delicious, but such big portions that, in typical American style I asked for "doggie bags" and told the guys to take the big bag home to their families. Funny: we Americans don't mind at all asking for the doggy bag to take home, even in the fanciest restaurant. But I notice that outside of the US, this is not customary. "Food should not be wasted," I told the guys, who all agreed.
We all wanted to take a nap afterwards, and some of us decided that LUNCH was the meal of the day.
If you go: get all the information you need from their website, and you will like the home page music, too:
The weekend is here and time to offer you some interesting links for when you are ready to sit down to catch up. Reed Reibstein has sent me some materials that I also find of importance for all of us before we head out to business meetings next week:
A superb summary of 15 video demonstrations of prototype publications on the iPad, from exact replicas of the print editions to truly interactive magazines.
Mario's note: Don't miss The New York Times and the Dutch daily De Telegraaf if you want to see rare demos of how newspapers will go iPad. So far it is usually magazines that project demos, so I found these to be quite interesting.
Study on what potential tablet users plan to use them for; 1/3 plan to read newspapers and magazines, while another 1/3 does not plan to at all!
Good discussion of advertising strategies for the iPad
Video of Jim Parkinson interview: Don't miss him discussing his most famous logos
Video interview with Jim Parkinson, designer of the Newsweek, Rolling Stone, and Los Angeles Times nameplates.
Mario's note: Don't miss this vintage Jim Parkinson interview: the master of newspaper and magazine logos sits at home and reminisces. At 69, Parkinson is still a genius to listen to.
I was honored to work with him through the years, and what a thrill it was to see him in action: listening to the briefing, then sending early drafts that you felt like hanging on the wall and preserving forever, except that he will tell you: "No, Mario, the caps are not quite right there, and I want to capture more of a Spanish and sports kind of flair for "El" in El Grafico.
I called upon the talents of Jim Parkinson for a variety of projects across the world. Each time he would produce a winner, whether it was restoration or creation. And, like people with his talents and genius, a humble, personable, great to work with person. He danced around the restoration of The Wall Street Journal logo with Joe Dizney and me; he cleaned The Charlotte Observer logo with us, and the Gulf News of Dubai, El Mercurio (Chile) and dozens of others. I still keep his early sketches for each in my files, precious mementos of the master at work.


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Nine people injured in two-car crash in Raleigh
Posted December 5, 2013
Updated December 6, 2013
Raleigh, N.C. — Nine people, including several teenagers, were injured in a two-car crash on Norwood Road in north Raleigh Thursday evening, according to state Highway Patrol troopers.
According to investigators, an Acura filled with five teenagers crossed the center line and crashed head on into a Toyota SUV carrying four people shortly after 8:30 p.m.
Troopers said the 16-year-old driver was going around a curve on Norwood Road when he went off the side of the road and over corrected. Speed was a factor in the wreck, and troopers said the road was wet.
The names of those injured have not been released, but authorities said all of the injuries were non-life-threatening. The five teenagers are all students at Leesville Road High School.
Three girls, ages 14 and 15, were thrown from the vehicle in the wreck and landed in a yard across the street. Troopers said none of the girls were wearing seat belts.
"Two boys were in the front seat. They got out. They were alert but a little confused, and they were saying, 'Where are the girls? Where are the girls?'" said witness Lisa Sroka. "There were three girls in the backseat who got ejected out of the back window at some point across the street."
The 16-year-old driver and 17-year-old front-seat passenger were both wearing seat belts. The driver was ticketed for speeding and transporting a passenger under age 16 that wasn't wearing a seat belt.
Four people inside the Toyota SUV were also taken to local hospitals. Their injuries were also non-life-threatening.


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Brigham and Women's Hospital to Host First National Summit on Women's Health
The focus is on gender inequity in biomedical research.
Boston will host the first national policy summit to address gender inequity in biomedical research, which will explore breakthroughs in health care for women. Dr. Paula Johnson, a cardiologist and executive director of the Mary Horrigan Connors Center for Women's Health and Gender Biology at BWH, recently spoke at TEDWomen 2013 and says that work needs to be done to change the disparity in biomedical research. "What is at stake, quite literally is not only the overall health of women but the integrity of medical research and the health of the economy already overburdened by the enormous cost of fighting disease," she says.
The event takes place on March 3 at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. In addition to Johnson, other speakers include Dr. Betsy Nabel, president of Brigham and Women's Hospital (BWH), U.S. Senators Elizabeth Warren (MA) and Kirsten Gillibrand (NY), CBS' Lesley Stahl, and FDA Commissioner Margaret Hamburg.
The event is organized around the 20th anniversary of the National Institute of Health's (NIH) Revitalization Act that required all NIH-funded medical research to include women and minorities.
"A majority of people are unaware that the gender gap in science and medicine continues to exist, while others believe that advances in research and clinical care in breast and ovarian cancer mean that women's health is adequately stewarded," Johnson says. "This lack of awareness, together with insufficient research in understanding sex and gender differences and the problem of underrepresentation in medical research make it clear that now, 20 years later, we cannot leave women's health to chance."
The summit agenda will include keynotes and interactive roundtable discussions.
View Johnson's full TedTalk here:
Source URL: http://www.bostonmagazine.com/health/blog/2014/01/29/brigham-womens-hospital-host-first-national-summit-womens-health/


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Recently voted 'England's leading spa resort ', the Pennyhill Park Hotel is the perfect place to escape the stresses and strains of the outside world.
The Spa has the most advanced thermal sequencing experience in the UK. You will feel the air of relaxation as soon as you walk in to the vast changing rooms. There are eight indoor and outdoor swimming pools, including a ballroom swimming pool with underwater music, bubbling hot tubs and hydrotherapy pools. The Thermal Heaven consists of herbal saunas, laconium, tepidarium, ice cave and an aromatic schnapps steam room. When you have had enough of this endless pampering you can put on your robe and slippers and visit their Themis Spa restaurant that incorporates organic choices and decadent treats.
This amazingly luxurious country house hotel lies in 123 acres of Surrey parkland, located only 45 minutes from the centre of London. As well as enjoying the award winning spa, a luxury escape at this hotel will also offer you individually styled bedrooms, fine wines, superb dining and impeccable service. This is the perfect place to visit if you like being pampered.
Barnsley House is a contemporary and stylish country house hotel that is also full of character. An escape to Barnsley House is all about doing as you please.
The magnificent Garden Spa will help you to unwind the minute you step inside. With the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the grounds, dry stone walls and plants at every turn, the idea of their Garden Spa is to bring the tranquillity of the garden inside. The spa focuses on holistic treatments and is fully equipped with five treatment rooms, a steam room, sauna, relaxation room and heated outside hydrotherapy pool.
Every bedroom at Barnsley House has its own personality and character. Experience pure luxury amongst the contemporary furnishings, traditional stone fireplaces and wooden floors. Take a stroll through the expertly maintained gardens and dine at The Potager Restaurant to enjoy super fresh Modern European dishes where the home grown vegetables, salad leaves and herbs are picked straight from the kitchen garden. Once you have stayed at Barnsley House you will almost certainly be planning on a return visit.
The Macdonald Bath Spa Hotel is one of the finest 5 star hotels in Bath. Formerly a family home, the majestic Georgian mansion is set in seven acres of beautiful landscaped gardens and combines contemporary style with timeless elegance and traditional values.
Escape from everyday life and sample some of the most indulgent spa treatments at the recently upgraded luxury spa. Enjoy a refreshing dip in the hotel's indoor swimming pool, or lay back in the tropical warmth of the outdoor hydropool and look at the stars. There's also an indoor whirlpool, a relaxation room and a state-of-the-art thermal suite for detoxification. The candlelit tranquility that you will experience inside the spa will allow peace and serenity to pervade your senses.
When you have worked up an appetite, experience fine dining in the hotel's AA Rosette award winning restaurant or enjoy a short stroll in to Bath's city centre where there is a vast choice of restaurants and bars. To make your stay extra special book in to the Imperial Suites private residence with Butler Service which make the hotel the ideal destination for a romantic weekend away.
Moddershall Oaks is a beautiful country property that prides itself upon its service standards leaving you free to relax and enjoy Britain's most luxurious new spa experience.
This magnificent country retreat has created the perfect spa environment where they aim to treat each guest individually according to their health and lifestyle aspirations. Reflexology foot baths, an experience shower, tiled heated loungers, heated indoor swimming pool, sauna, and a steam room, will allow you to completely relax. The very latest in hydrotherapy technology means that during your stay you can enjoy the ultimate in luxurious spa experiences.
Continue your wellness aim at Moddershall Oaks by utilising their woodland walks, tennis court, and cycle trails to leave you feeling more energised, ensuring that your physical wellbeing is paramount. A stay in one of the luxurious bedroom suites will allow you relax and unwind in your own private sanctuary and with a unique food experience, comfortable surroundings and stunning views across the lake, Moddershall Oaks is designed in such a way that you will never want to leave.
Built in 1816 and set in 36 acres of rolling Cheshire countryside there is something about Rookery Hall that simply says romance. As you arrive up the tree lined driveway you will feel the stresses of everyday life fade in to the distance.
Set in a converted stable block, the luxurious spa is designed to create a sense of warmth, security, luxury and blissful relaxation. During your time at the spa you can enjoy the use of the hydrotherapy pool, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, crystal steam rooms and relaxation rooms. Compliment your visit to the spa with your choice of individual specialised treatments and experience an oasis of calm and wellbeing.
Guests at Rookery Hall will enjoy a blend of modern style and traditional comforts. Each room is finished to the highest possible standard to provide a haven of relaxation and a great night's sleep. The old dining hall also creates a special atmosphere of classical elegance and intimate ambience in which you can enjoy a fine dining experience to mark a special occasion.
One of the original London boutique hotels, the Sanderson offers a retreat from the bustle of the city into a world of fantasy and wellbeing.
This urban spa has a dazzling array of rejuvenating treatments providing pampering, spiritual relief, and tranquillity to all who enter. While visiting the spa you can also make use of the chill-out zone and meditation beds offering you a peaceful, dreamy and almost cloud-like ambiance.
All rooms and suites at this luxury hotel are both striking yet elegant. Some rooms even have their own private treadmill offering an invigorating way to alleviate stress. Also on offer at this stunning hotel is the Malaysian restaurant which includes dishes ranging from home-style to truly elegant and luxe. Visit the hotel's Long bar where the Alice in Wonderland-inspired tables and chairs, and flickering candles, makes an incredibly romantic spot for a nightcap.
This elegant English stately home set in 170 acres of parklands, is an outstanding health farm and spa haven that is dedicated to the well-being of your mind, body and soul.
As one of the largest destination health spa groups in the world, the spa is always the star at Champneys. At Champneys Tring you can swim in the luxurious new 25m pool, lose yourself in our new Laconium or Herbal Steam Chamber and detox in their new Thalassotherapy Pool. The ancient treatment of thalassotherapy involves bathing in a warm, mineral-rich pool with stimulating hydrotherapy jets to help relieve arthritis and other aches and pains.
Whilst experiencing the ultimate in rest and relaxation at Champneys, you could also take tea in the graceful Drawing Room, unwind in the Music Room, perfect your snooker in the Games Room, roam the manicured grounds or even take a yoga or pilates class. Whatever you choose to do, you will leave Champneys feeling like a whole new person.
This prestigious five star luxury country hotel is set in 11 acres of beautiful wooded grounds just 3 miles from the historic city of Aberdeen. Since the hotel opened it has earned an unrivalled reputation as Aberdeen's only five-star hotel.
The recently opened spa facilities consists of three treatment rooms, a relaxing area, Hydrotherapy Bath, Make up and Manicure area, a gym plus a Bathing Ritual Balenotherapy Room. The Balenotherapy Room is unique to Scotland. The treatment takes place in a Hydrotherapy bath, which has lots of high powered jets to massage the entire body. Various aromatic and therapeutic products are added to the water, depending on your needs. Balenotherapy spa treatments give immediate relief to arthritis, muscular tension, and bring deep relaxation to the body and mind. You will never have known before that you could feel so good.
The Marcliffe hotel and spa is also an ideal location for outdoor pursuits. From championship golf, world class salmon fishing and shooting there is no shortage of activities for guests. The hotel's attention to detail, to comfort and luxury is also reflected in the contemporary bedrooms and the culinary detail in the Conservatory Restaurant. However you choose to relax during your stay, a visit to The Marcliffe is sure to be a memorable one.
The 1920's built house is situated on Penarth's pretty Marine Parade ideally situated for access to Glamorgan's stunningly beautiful Heritage Coast or Cardiff city centre.
The state-of-the-art spa at this fine hotel, provides a haven of peace and tranquillity by the sea. The spa offers a relaxation room with sea views, a small gym and a large hydrotherapy pool with swim jets. Unique to the Cardiff area, Holm House exclusively provides organic treatments from Ytsara which is inspired by the traditions of Asia, integrating Thai, Chinese and Indian massage rituals together with different yoga breathing techniques.
All rooms are equipped with the latest in modern technology and come furnished with the best in quality classic and contemporary designs. For the ultimate in decadent relaxation, every room is also generously provisioned with Jo Malone's indulgent bathroom products and luxurious Frette bed linen. Either way, this opulent yet unpretentious hotel will suit the needs of all those looking for something sumptuously different.
A leading hotel of the world, The Grove is a very special luxury hotel resort that is just 30 minutes outside of London. The Grove perfect embodiment of urban chic set within 300 acres of private parkland.
Soothe and stimulate all of your senses while escaping life's stresses and strains at The Grove's luxury health spa. Inside, enjoy the indoor pool, gym, sauna and steam rooms, while outside, within their spectacular Walled Garden there is an outdoor pool, a luxury beach, tennis courts and a croquet lawn. Restore your body with a range of ESPA treatments and enjoy a renewed sense of harmony.
Play on The Grove's championship golf course, dine a choice of three restaurants and waste time in their lounges, bars, Walled Garden and woods. Relax in amongst the gorgeous grand interiors, stunning guest rooms and suites all featuring antique furniture and modern art. There is so much to do at The Grove that you can spend days there and never do the same thing twice.
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shingle(redirected from shingling)
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hang out your shingle(American)
to start your own business, especially as a doctor or a lawyer He hung out his shingle in Brandon many years ago, and has been a lawyer there ever since.
hang out one's shingle
Open an office, especially a professional practice, as in Bill's renting that office and hanging out his shingle next month. This American colloquialism dates from the first half of the 1800s, when at first lawyers, and later also doctors and business concerns, used shingles for signboards.
n. creamed chipped beef on toast. (see also creamed foreskins. Military. Usually objectionable.) Oh, no, it's shit on a shingle again tonight.


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Interfaces and Free Boundaries
Full-Text PDF (314 KB) | Metadata | Table of Contents | IFB summary
On the existence of mean curvature flow with transport termChun Liu[1], Norifumi Sato[2] and Yoshihiro Tonegawa[3] (1) Department of Mathematics, The Pennsylvania State University, 207 Church Street SE, PA 16802, University Park, USA
(2) Furano H.S., 076-0011, Furano, Japan
(3) Department of Mathematics, Hokkaido University, Kita 10, Nishi 8, Kita-ku, 060-0810, Sapporo, Japan
We prove the global-in-time existence of weak solution for a hypersurface evolution problem where the velocity is the sum of the mean curvature and arbitrarily given non-smooth vector field in a suitable Sobolev space. The approximate solution is obtained by the Allen–Cahn equation with transport term. By establishing the density ratio upper bound on the phase boundary measure it is shown that the limiting surface moves with the desired velocity in the sense of Brakke.
Keywords: Mean curvature flow, varifold, Allen–Cahn equation, phase field method
Liu Chun, Sato Norifumi, Tonegawa Yoshihiro: On the existence of mean curvature flow with transport term. Interfaces Free Bound. 12 (2010), 251-277. doi: 10.4171/IFB/234