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need to update country looking kitchen part two.
I had no idea there was a 150 message limit so here we go with PART TWO.
I was afraid I was boring people or my indecisiveness was becoming annoying and glad to read all of this may be helping others.
This is my story and I am sticking to it.
-I am not painting the harvest oak cabinets or the harvet oak wainscoat.
-I am keeping my cream with tan and blue flecked formica counters,harvest oak wood edge and navy porcelain sink. (may do the backsplash at a later date).
-I am taking down the wall paper and painting the wall area and soffits and decided on IVOIRE.
-I am replacing my vinyl floor with new vinyl floor.
-Need a new light.
-Bird wall hanging still a maybe but search for artwork.
So what I really really need, is help with the floor pattern. Lots of advise that my wood has too much movement. Thoughts, agree disagree?
Today I thought I found the floor, have sample of it (a slate look with shades of cream/slate/rust) but not sure about the "movement" of it as posts are suggesting I limit the movement because of the oak wood grain. I will post pics later. I have trouble understanding why formica with movement is ok but not floor?
So any pics and photoshopping of vinyl flooring appreciated. That will be my main expense and I want to get it right.
Thanks again and hope to keep this fun party going!
I think because both a countertop material and flooring materials with a lot of movement were discussed, that people were concerned about all the elements being pretty strong.
Since the walls will now be plain and the countertop reads as a solid color, I think the floor could have some movement to it. The future backsplash would have to take this into an account
I would post a picture of a current door, the countertop, the Ivoire color as givens and then go from there. (I think the presence of the wallpaper, which is being removed, is still distracting people from the direction you are actually headed).
My advice: take down the wallpaper, paint, and then decide on a floor. I think your current WP might be distracting in making a decision. (Just realized I am giving you the same advice as ineffablespace just did!)
I like the light fixture. But: does it give off enough light for your space? Some of your previous photos seemed kinda dark. Does it fit in with your other decor, current, or planned?
In general I would make the big, permanent choices first, and things like lighting last. How much light you need will be related to how light the walls end up and how dark the floor is to some extent and things like that.
My lighting instructor called fixtures like the one you posted "Motivational Lighting" that is something that will *maybe* give off enough light to eat with romantic lighting, but it will not be nearly enough for general lighting. These types of fixtures are used for design interest and what they call "sparkle lighting" as well, and give the appearance that they light the room, but it is really recessed cans or something that is doing the work of lighting.
Look at the picture, you can see the filaments lit but it's a shot taken in broad daylight. That's because the fixture doesn't give off enough light to take a picture without a flash and all you would see is a dark room and the glow of the fixture. It's pretty, but it's ornamental lighting at best.
Tinker, I used my board from the âÂÂGolden Oakâ thread and swapped out some materials to see if it helps you visualize your direction. I donâÂÂt know what your flooring sample looks like; I just chose one from the Lowes website that I thought might work with your Ivoire paint color.
I took the liberty of adding a backsplash idea, also from Lowes. (I donâÂÂt know why you couldnâÂÂt tile over the smooth formica backsplash area, in time, if you wanted to; we tiled an entire formica countertop, back in the 80âÂÂs, including a low backsplash.) The backsplash tiles shown here might look OK on a monitor, but might not work at all with the speckles in your countertop, which I canâÂÂt really see well without standing in your kitchen. This is just an idea of a direction, not intended as a list of definite materials.
Flooring: 13-3/16-ft W Condor 533 Stone Low-Gloss Finish Sheet Vinyl
Backsplash: American Olean 12-in x 12-in Delfino Cornsilk Glass Mosaic Wall Tile
Here is how these materials worked when I reworked the green/copper/golden oak idea board I used in that past Design Around This thread.
ThereâÂÂs a chance that your real cabinets are not quite the same color as the oak door I used in these boards, so just use this as a rough guide.
I think your appliances are black (judging from the dishwasher in your photo?) so I left the black appliances in place. As you can see, IâÂÂm siding with those who suggest painting the chairs (or buying new ones, if DH would rather pay for chairs, than a can of paint!) I think the black chairs help to pull the appliances into the color scheme (instead of just ignoring it.)
One thing about this direction is it doesnâÂÂt acknowledge your blue sink. If you have decided against blue flooring or walls, I think you could still tie in the sink by using blue draperies, rug, dishware, dishtowels, tablecloths, etc.
Not sure if this is very helpful. I do these little arrangements in Olioboard.com, and I havenâÂÂt used it for a long time (so wanted to see if I still remembered how it worked, anyway!)
Thank you so much mudhouse!! It helps to see it all together and as ineffable posted, helps see the direction I am heading. Anyone have suggestions now when seeing some ideas (paint color, accessories etc) all together ? (cabinet color pretty close but a little more brown in mine. The flooring store had a basket of cabinet doors and brought back the memory mine were called " Harvest Oak" ).
Seeing the light in your grouping confirms it really has to go as others suggested before. Too curly and country. I added a pic of a light previously suggested by mayflower and do like it.
I like the floor a lot in your picture and will check it out at Lowes. I actually brought home a similar slate design sample of Congoleum Airstep Plus-Western Slate pattern- in the color "Sundance." I like it a lot and will post a pic but the Congoleum site does not allow me to save as jpg photos.
Best part of the floor I found is it fits the requirement to be a quality vinyl and from their Best category and this particular store stocks rolls of 5 or 6 Congoleum patterns and colors of the better flooring at a reduced price point and would save a couple of hundred dollars.
My new idea in regard to a kitchen set is maybe try to sell the existing on craigs list and just buy a new set. THAT would sit with DH better than a can of paint. (rolling eyes)
Is the program you use available online?
Any opinions on the ivoire paint color and more lighting pictures appreciated. Not sure having the paint color as light as the counters is a good idea?
This post was edited by tinker1121 on Sun, Jan 12, 14 at 6:05
Pic of my present oak kitchen set. Memba these?
I love the table as is made very nicely with a rotating mechanism to add a large leaf to seat 8 which I do on holidays as no dining room is this small house. A bit crammed but it works the few times a year we do it. (first project 35 years ago was taking down the wall and combining the small dining and living rooms into one space and never regretted it).
Please find the link to Congoleum designing page and if you page down I think each of those room settings should show the Western Slate-Sundance vinyl in each room setting, which is the sample I have.
My kitchen only has one window so it appears a bit darker in the room.
See the one kitchen setting which is last one in top row of pics and has a similar cabinet color as mine.
Here is a link that might be useful: Congoleum Western Slate color Sundance
Completely respect yours & DH's desire to not paint wood; personally, I think painting wood is almost a sin.
However...... have you considered white-washing the wainscoting?
White-washing, with stain, allows grain to show and tones down yellow look of pine.
BTW - love the light fixture you posted @ 19:10
Here is a link that might be useful: white-washing & pickling techniques
Really like the three glass shades! It looks like it's coming together.
Is there any chance that bird hanging comes in a smaller size? Ask at the place where you bought it. And look on it to see if there's any information at all that you could do a search on line.
Wait with the table and chairs until the end. They might not look so country after the other changes. My first choice for buying furniture is always the antique store or the second hand store. They just don't make it like they used to. Young green fast growing trees don't make quality lumber.
This post was edited by lov_mkitchen on Sun, Jan 12, 14 at 8:21
The bird hanging only comes in the 60 x 30 size and it is a tad large for wall but won't give up on it until the walls are painted. I just love the coloring with a tad of metallic some dark blue and just the overall design and uniqueness of it with the leaves and birds.
Thanks for the whitewashing idea but that is not an option.
I love my table and different chairs could make a huge difference I think. Agree it should wait until the end.
If the wall hanging looked bright and cheerful as it does on mudhouse's Olioboard, you'd have a good starting point, but unfortunately it doesn't in your room. Does it brighten up any when you bring it into another room? I know you're going to upgrade your lighting.
I like the Western Slate in Vanilla Cream better because it's a cool color. I think the best way to update oak is to go cool, not with the pinky-oranges in the Sundance. I don't see any relationship between the cream counter and Ivorie paint and the Sundance.
Cream paint like Ivorie reflects the outside light and reads yellow. I have SW Antique White walls, which has no yellow in the formula, but on a bright or sunny day, it's yellow. I have some photographs framed in light gray and they look really nice against the creamy yellow. So try the Vanilla Cream or similar. I think you'll still like the floor 10 years from now where you might get tired of the pinky-orange. It's like the sink--it locks you into a strong color.
As others have suggested--get rid of the wallpaper! It is interfering with your other selections. The view on the Congoleum site is nice but it plays up the oak and black. I think it would be better with a floor with more gray in it to enhance your navy blue. For the same reason, although black chairs would look great with the oak, they would not help your sink. I'm afraid the ivory paint color would also not enhance the navy. Maybe a very pale blue would work--but it has to be a shade of the navy--can't be a more greenish hue. After the wallpaper is gone you can put up some large paint samples to help you.
Good luck!
Okay, so here is the room with Ivoire paint, and with the Congoleum Sundance color vinyl floor. I added a light fixture from Lowes with less curly lines. (Sorry I got sloppy and cut off the bottom of your oak cabinet.)
And, here is the room with the Sherwin Williams Antique White paint, and the Congoleum Vanilla Cream color vinyl floor, both suggested by mayflowers.
Personally, I much prefer the second scheme, because itâÂÂs cooler and less yellow. To me, it looks more updated (more of a departure, from the previous warm tones in your room.) I also agree with mayflowers that the cooler tones of the floor are a nice contrast for the warmth of the oak cabinets. The cool grays of the floor also play nicely with the blue sink.
For me...I would not choose a floor with a lot of warm brown tones, because I think it encourages the color of the oak cabinets to be even more dominant.
ThatâÂÂs the thing about golden oak, it wants to dominate the color scheme. ThatâÂÂs fine if itâÂÂs the direction you want, just donâÂÂt let the oak bully you into thinking all of your choices need to be yellow or warm-toned to coordinate with it. You can also choose things that contrast with the warmth (just like the blue floors and paint, in the first thread.)
I will add some information about working with Olioboard in just a bit, itâÂÂs a great tool!
Thank you so much!!!
It helps so much to have a visual!
Does everyone like the Ivoire paint choice and I do like the lighter floor much better.
On the Part One thread someone suggested the floor be dark.
I picked up another great sample today of Armstrong Duality in the Empire Slate design in a color called Woodstock White.
About SW Antique White. I tried about every creamy paint before I went into the lightest creams on the paint strips. The light painted the creams yellow, and not just on sunny days. Think winter in the Pacific Northwest! So any paint that looks even a tad yellow could give you the traditional yellow kitchen. It's a hard color to work with.
I like the Antique White, and I would still try a pale blue from the navy spectrum. I searched for "navy" on the SW site and Naval #6244 came up. Any of the shades below that #6233--#6238 are pretty. Black chairs might look good against the lightest blue.
Follow the suggestions and pick a floor a few shades darker than the counter , with less yellow tones in it.
Ok, one more. The paint is Sherwin Williams Icicle 6238, as suggested by junco in the post above. I had to remove the warm tone backsplash, so I just put a neutral tone in that area, trying not to distract from the floor/wall decision.
The floor on the left half (under the blue rug) is the Armstrong Duality Woodstock White. The floor on the right half is still the Congoleum Vanilla Cream. On the monitor, I think the Vanilla Cream works better, but you'd really have to see the real samples in person to know.
I still like the Antique White walls too, but I do think (as discussed in the last thread too) that blue can be very pretty with golden oak. And, I also like pale blue with black.
I don't think we have talked much about how any of these choices would go with the rest of your house. If your kitchen is open to other rooms, some of these choices might not work with existing colors in adjacent rooms...?
IâÂÂd pull down the wallpaper, and go buy a bunch of paint samples...and start trying things. The only real answer is how it looks in your real room, with your light, of course. Computer stuff like this is fun, but not perfect at predicting what youâÂÂll really end up liking, in the real world.
tinker1121, you asked about Olioboard. It's not a software program, it's a website that you register to use. It's free. After you log in, you can create your own boards using images on the site, or images you grab off the web. Like any tool, it takes a little bit of fiddling to learn it, but it's not hard.
You can plop images onto your board, and then you can move them around, resize them, layer them, crop them...and more. After you're happy with a board, you can save it as a jpeg file to your computer, to post here.
This thread is from 2012, and many of us shared ideas for creating some of the boards used in the Design Around This threads. About halfway down I did a pretty long post about Olioboard, and it explains more about how it works:
About the Design Around This Threads
It's a lot easier for me to visualize things using this tool...and it's fun to play with.
@ mdln, I really don't know (don't have an iPad myself.) They have an FAQ answer that says: "Yes. Olioboard is now available on the iPad. You can now browse products, save items to sets and create moodboard designs on the go. We are in the process of incorporating our new pro tools into the iPad now. They should be available in the coming months."
You might get better info by posting a question in their "Discuss" section of the site, or email them directly through the Contact Us link. Sorry to not be more help!
Lookin good mudhouse!
Can't wait to pick up the sample of the Western Slate Vanilla cream vinyl. I am loving the Empire Slate in Woodstock white though and have attached a picture I took of the sample. Appears a bit darker in the pic as everything seems to with my cellphone camera. The pattern is unique as it is 16" squares offset in a diamond pattern and the color just feels safe with a some light and dark grays, some cream and tans. Just have to keep it longer to make sure the tans don't turn greenish certain times of the day. This pic looks a tad green? The grout is a pretty cream/off white.
I like the idea of Antique White better than blue but since I asked for advise, you all are so good at this I will get a 6238 icicle sample. The ajoining living room is all tones of golds, tan, beige with dark red accents. Walls are a BM lightish gold and can't think of the name. The room behind it is my computer room, a small enclosed back room and a SW beige called Horn with light mocha colored berber carpet.
Wallpaper coming down on Saturday. Let the mess begin and hope it is painless. No more shopping and have to concentrate on elbow grease!
The vinyl is pretty. I noticed it looked a little green in the Olioboard and the sink looks purple. I called it blueberry in your other thread but is it navy? I know your counter is really a cream. Looks almost white in your other photo. Can you take a pic of the floor sample on the counter?
The floor sample I posted is not the same as the one in Olio grouping from mudhouse. I don't have that sample and had the pattern in the sunset color but someone looked at the Armstrong site and suggested I get the pattern in the lighter color called "vanila cream". Slate look with 12" squares.
I am loving the sample I posted above under my wainscoat and a 16" square set on the diagonal. Different and a bit unique.
I am at work right now and will take a picture of it on the counter tomorrow morning hoping it will show the true colors. Pics at night are just not accurate at all.
I went to Ace Hardware at lunch and looked at a color sample HC-174 Lancaster Whitewash. It is on the strip with revere pewter and edgecomb gray so a cool light beige/antique white sort of color. I picked up the $2 color jar and will try it out. I will also get the SW Antique White.
I am going to some great fabric for my curtains I think to punch up some color and maybe bring in the navy. Everything seems cool and easy and I may be in shock after living with that lively wallpaper all these years!
I am putting the cart before the horse again and decorating after painting and floor down can solve it I am sure.
Back to work now. :)
I'm excited for you, tinker1211. January is such a great time to start new projects (seems so appropriate.)
May_flowers has a good point about the sink color...I was thinking about that too. We are all guessing that the Icicle color is in the right family of blues, based on how it looks on our monitors. You may have to double check it with swatches to see if Icicle is on the right path with your "actual" blue.
You're so right about checking material samples to see how they look, different times of the day, before taking the plunge. (I've painted whole rooms only to find they looked horrid when evening arrived...) Lesson learned.
Looking forward to seeing how it goes!
If the sink is more of a blueberry, Icicle or any pale blue could make the sink look purple, just like on the Olioboard.
Does anyone else remember blueberry from the 80s, along with dusty rose and hunter green? I worked in a kitchen store then and remember enameled pots and tea kettles in those colors.
Tinker, you really need to stop shopping and get that wallpaper off! That will make everything much easier. (BTW I did the same thing, kept getting myself distracted to other choices... even other rooms!.)
Then you need to make a decision about the artwork, yes or no. Because if you are going to keep it, it will be dominating and everything must work with it.
On my monitor, the artwork (which I really like) does have an overall warm, almost greenish undertone feel (probably because of the blues and golds together). So having a little greenish in the floor would not be bad. I don't think that the cooler, grayer floor in the 2nd mock up works with it all that well (or with the formica and sink)
Going back to the Sunday posts: I think that the first mock up with Ivoire paint and sundance floor and the artwork would work -- *only* if you painted the wainscoting; (and I know that you don't want to, but to my eye it makes everything feel closed in) What I liked about the Sundance floor is the touches of blue that pick up on the sink, and I think that is a good thing. But it also is too strong color wise and too busy with the wainscoting--again, though, because I cant' really tell the scale of the floor pattern in your room it is hard to say for sure.
I think that the Woodstock white floor does work better all around.
What about a semi-flush light? If you keep that artwork (or any significant hanging) I would say you want something that lights well but is rather out of the view.
BTW, what kind of light bulb you will use will make a huge difference in your color choices, too. Can you try out LED and CFL bulbs in the different color temps? (3000k and 2800k) I changed to 3000k LEDs and am so happy with the difference.
If the adjoining rooms are all in warm tones, then you don't want to go overall cool if they can see or be seen from the kitchen. It would seem off. You can stay in colors considered neutral or stay warm. The paint stores usually have brochures or online aides that group their colors into warm, neutral and cool. Ivoire seems to be a warm color, and there are warm blues (your sink seems to be a neutral dark blue).
Whew, hope all that IMO helps some!
Mission of the day accomplished. I skipped my water aerobics class tonight and went back to the flooring store to return the Congoleum Western Slate in Sunset sample the 3 others that are too dark and picked up the sample of the Western Slate in the vanilla cream. I don't like it as much as the Armstrong Empire Slat in the Woodstock White color but will not rule it out until I get the wallpaper down, see it in different lighting and times of day and paint up some sample color boards.
Coloring in both floor samples similar but I love the large pattern of the Woodstock White and it some of the grays look greenish at times and also can appear dark blue. The squares would be on the diagonal and I like that uniqueness of it's design.
The Congoleum Western Slate in Vanilla cream has the same coloring in some of the 12 " blocks with some the plainer in very light blocks intermixed.
I will get it. I know I will!
My sink is not blueberry I don't think, but a true medium navy color.I don't think I want to consider blue walls as too off, with the color tones of the rest of my first floor. I also think of blue for bedrooms. (btw my bedroom is painted Quietude by SW and my favorite color ever!!!)
Picked up two BM paint samples today in Lancaster Whitewash and a color called Niveous, one of Candace Olsen's faves. I like it just because she likes it!! I love all of her designs and wish she would come over! I will also get a sample jar of SW Antique White.
Thanks again and hope we don't reach 150 posts before I get the darn wallpaper off. Maybe I will start it one night this week yet after work!
Took a pic of the Armstrong Empire Slate in Woodstock White with my counter. Best pic I can get for now since dark in the morning and when I get home from work but I think I love it.
The lighter version of the Western Slate (picture boards start with the darker color Sundance and then changed to Vanilla Cream) may have too much color variation in the blocks. It reminds me of chocolate milk not stirred enough. lol. I still love the pattern of the Woodstock, it can be green/gray at times and will finalized my decision this weekend when the wall paper is off.
AND, I had an idea for a paint color to try BM Manchester Tan as forgot I had a sample from when I helped my daughter with her townhouse colors and it is pretty darn good with the Woodstock White floor, at least in this lousy dreary morning! It is beautiful in her first floor and doesn't change too much, just the depth of color. Doesn't go green and if anything can go a tad cool which I think would be good from the advice to tone down the oak.
I always choose paint colors from opinions here and the paint's reputation for being neutral, doesn't change color, it can be this or that etc. (love Ivorie's reputation and one of the reasons I picked up the sample).
I posted a link with a great article on Manchester Tan. I have a small board painted and I like it. Opinions on Manchester Tan please? I will still get a SW Antique White sample this week also
Also, sad to say my beloved bird wall hanging is not going to work with the direction I have gone. You all tried to convince me of that and better artwork is out there I am sure.
Here is a link that might be useful: Manchester Tan
The counter and flooring seem to have the same undertone. I think the cabinets will look very nice with it.
Notice how they show Manchester Tan with oak floors in this pic. The fireplace stone looks like it could mimic the flooring you've picked out--a little gray, a little tan, a little cream. I would say Manchester Tan is closer to what I was trying to achieve when I painted in Antique White, which is creamier--ie, more yellow.
This post was edited by may_flowers on Tue, Jan 14, 14 at 11:14
So is that a thumbs up for Manchester Tan and the Woodstock White floor? I do value you opinion, honesty, and assistance mayflower.
Funny I took notice of that same picture you posted also and how they chose green for a valance and the stone on the fireplace.
Tinker, we have to go by what your eye sees in the proper lighting, but so far so good on my monitor. You've come a long way, baby!
Try the Edgecomb Gray too. I don't like yellows so much with oak. My hallway has oak floors and I have the Antique White there, but it's a very dark hallway, so not much yellow comes through.
The names throw me and would have a hard time painting with "gray" , as crazy as it sounds, but I will get a sample as no one has steered me wrong yet. lol
I bought the Lancaster Whitewash sample jar yesterday and a bit "flat" looking for lack of a better word, when I see it next to my Manchester tan board.
I feel more confident now as just have the need to have a vision in my head in going in the right direction finally!
Hi Tinker, here is the room with the pretty Linda Plaisted artwork, from the link you sent, and with the Benjamin Moore Manchester Tan walls. The entire floor is now Armstrong Empire Slate in Woodstock White.
I made the poster pretty large, just so you could see the colors in it. The nice thing about that poster is you can order it in a whole range of sizes (smaller than I show it, here.) I added the silver frame just because I thought it would coordinate with the grays in the floor.
Because the floor, poster, and Manchester Tan seem to have greenish undertones, the strong cobalt blue accessories I was using didnâÂÂt work (and IâÂÂm not sure they were a good match for your sink, anyway.) So I changed the accessories to a mix of blues and greens.
I had the backsplash tiles saved from another board (I think, back from when we were all playing with ideas for Deedles lovely green vintage range.) So dropped them in. These are fairly expensive Ann Sacks tiles, but IâÂÂm just including them as a color idea, showing a mix of blues/greens. I also think your existing formica backsplash would still work, without any tiles. A backsplash could always be something you add later, if you think the room needed it. It may not.
Then I got carried away and added some blue upholstered chairs, because I was thinking that style chair might move you even further away from the âÂÂcountry vibe.â They might be pretty, if you donâÂÂt have kids waving peanut butter sandwiches around. I left the black chairs in as well (hope that is not too confusing.)
If you hear a doorbell, that will be me, waving a wallpaper scraper. ;-)
Julie, I thought you did a wonderful job with your golden oak kitchen. (And I lust after your Electrolux induction slide in range.) Bravo for making your own huge Roman Shade. I'm getting ready to buy a new sewing machine, in the hopes I can tackle some of our own window treatments, so you give me hope.
I just love it!!!
After about 200 posts and everyone's help here, it really did evolve into just the right colors to incorporate my present counters and sink.
Mudhouse, your boards were invaluable and a HUGE thank you! The chairs make a huge difference and I will be on the lookout for something similar.
For me, I need to have a solid plan in place, confidence I am heading in the right direction and then just do it.
Saturday is D day for the wallpaper. A little sad to see it go as I actually still get compliments on it, BUT they don't live here and it has seen it's day.
Can't wait to post some demolition photos.
see my old thread on removing old paper if you have a hard time with the glue.
i've been following along and look forward to your progress.
this last board is by far the most fresh and modern looking while still honoring the oak.
This post was edited by detroit_burb on Thu, Jan 16, 14 at 20:05
the foil just sticks on because the towels are wet, it keeps the solution from evaporating too quickly, so it can soak into the paper and paste.
hopefully you will be able to strip the paper, and just spray and scrape the goop easily, but if you run into old paste or sticky paper that is stubborn, the papertowel/foil really saves elbow grease and turns it all to mush.
good luck with this!!
I have removed my grand share of old wallpaper and I vow never to paper a room because of the pain it has caused me.
Whew, it is a slow go. Was I supposed to score it first as now I can only get small pieces to come off? At this rate this will take weeks!! That little spot took almost an hour.
Maybe I should buy a steamer? My back won't take standing for hours like this I fear.
I am now very excited the project is in motion. I will actually miss my country kitchen a bit I think and DH still thinks it was "beautiful". lol
Wish me luck!
Is it paper paper or vinyl coated? If it's vinyl coated you should be able to peel the top layer off and the paper backing that remains on the wall should wash off. Try it somewhere that you haven't scored. And start soaking from the top down.
I have been reading all 150+ posts with interest as your kitchen used to be mine.
I too had to remove wallpaper and found the quickest, easiest way was with a steamer. And yes, score first, it allows the solution to get behind the paper.
If you are unable to remove all of the glue prime with Gardz. It seals the glue so that it does not seep through when you paint.
Good luck, it is a miserable job but the payoff is great!!
The paper is vinyl coated and I think I do need to start in a corner and peel it off and use the fabric solution on that paper backing that gets left behind. I have done this before but was much younger. :)
Justretired, can we see a pic of your kitchen? Do you have before and after?
I am done for the night. I did pull the border right off and tomorrow will tackle another wall and see how it goes and if I have to buy a steamer.
I am just not getting anywhere. I need to try and pull off the vinyl layer first, then saturate the paper layer that is left.
Home Depot has a wallpaper steamer for $50. It is worth it for this project I think as the entire soffit area up top is also papered.
You know, now that I see that paper close up, I believe it may be the same that I papered my family room with in 1987 or so! although mine had a whiter background IIRC. I really liked that paper, but now it does seem dated!
The fellows who stripped my wallpaper in the kitchen used hot water and DIF mixed in a tank sprayer. They said that the tank sprayer (the kind you might use for spraying trees or gardens) works really well to saturate the paper.
Try craig's list for the steamer. And if you do buy one from HD, I bet you could sell it on craig's list. 15 years ago, i had to remove a bunch of wallpaper from some bedroom walls. I tried for days, finally gave up and hired someone. I think they charged me $200. It was a huge amount for me because I was a stay at home mom and prided myself on doing everything to save money (built my own kitchen island!), but I never regretted spending that money.
Also a note about Lancaster ww. We had this in our main living space for years. We also have a lot of oak trim and it never seemed to go. A decorator friend later pointed out to me that it had a lot of grey in it that clashed with the warm oak. We switched to something with more warmth and green tones and it is a million times better.
I have removed lots and lots of wallpaper. Why, oh why, did my husband and I buy so many houses where the owners felt it was necessary to wallpaper the walls and ceilings of the kitchen and all baths.
Score with paper tiger- love that thing!, spray with hot water and DIF, scrape.
I do also have a steamer and sometimes I resort to it. But it's heavy when it is full and makes my arms ache. I have a small Black and Decker steamer. It was worth the investment as I have loaned it out on numerous occasions. Each situation is unique; the combination of wall, glue, paper, I swear the humidity on the day it was applied probably factors in LOL.
Don't give up- think how proud of yourself you will be when it is done. And honestly, that one patch of clean white wall looks so bright and fresh!
Tinker, you may look into renting a wallpaper steamer from an equipment rental place. It's not much cheaper than buying, depending on how many days you'll need it, but I think a commercial one is much more powerful. I have stripped many a stubborn paper (and even popcorn ceilings) with a rented steamer and it is definitely worth it!
Tinker --
I have not weighed in since the original thread, but the patch of wall showing under the paper helps clarify a problem that I have had with your pics from the get-go. To wit, that although you were describing surfaces as beige or tan, most photos seemed to show a distinct pinkish tinge. I thought it was just my monitor, so I shut up about it.
Now the brilliant white of the underlying wall suggests that the wallpaper is indeed a pinky beige. Looking back at the fine adjustments mudhouse has so creatively and judiciously provided, I strongly suggest that once the wallpaper is down you take a set of photos of both the cabinet area and the dining area with AS MUCH NATURAL LIGHT as you can get in the room, e.g., by flipping up the curtains on bright day. Then, take the same photos with something as as close to the artificial lighting you envision at night or with less day light.
That way we can better figure out whether the sink is slatish navy and the countertop pale neutral beige or the sink is periwinkle-ish navy and the counter background is pinkish. If former seems to be the case, then the Manchester Tan as captured in may_flowers' photo would be splendid, I think, IF that photo was not taken with professional photographers' lighting that mimics copious natural light but is not possible in your room.
Also, with better light and closer up, maybe we could see the paint chips against the original bird hanging, which is is lovely and a nice scale for your wall, and with the floor samples.
Now you see why I needed to shut up.
Waiting with baited breath to see your un-wallpapered dining area and the buff deltoids you are likely to develop with all that steaming, I wish you a productive afternoon.
LOL Mudhouse.
I am starting to say bad words and taking a break, but LOVE my steamer!!! Five hours and the progress is amazing with that thing.
I clunked my head on the light three times, missed the bottom step of the stool twice, have wall paper stuck on my arms, shirt and socks and thank god I have off tomorrow.
Listening to 70s music on a cable tv music station and have to watch when I start dancing that I don't take a tumble off the stool. This is a tear down disco party. Wish you all were here! There is so much steam that the condensation is running down all the windows on the first floor!
I am going to finish the walls today and tackle the soffits tomorrow if I can still move.
You all are the wind beneath my wings, truly!
Back to work.
You are a speed demon! That was fast! You just might inspire me to get a steamer and take down my half-bath and laundry, maybe even sunroom, paper...maybe...
But your kitchen looks Great! Better take a warm bath tonight to rest up for the soffits and out on the crock pot for tomorrow. Love my crockpot on a busy day. Feels like someone else made dinner,
The steamer is simply amazing and my saving grace. You definitely won't regret purchasing it.
It is soooooo easy and you need to be a bit ambidextrous and hold the large steam paddle on an area for 10 or 15 seconds while pulling and removing from the previously steamed area. With some good music and the fast results, it motivated me to keep on going and the time flew by.
Today I am aching especially the knees from going up and down the step stool, but don't want to extend the mess into the week and do hope to finish it today. DH is on board now and can't believe the difference. He has serious back issues and feels badly he can't help as he used to, but he is a great assistant to watch the water level of the steamer, man the trash can and sweep up a bit.
AND it looks so good already we (actually me, lol) are discussing replacing the countertops. HD scared me off with their installation prices and $400 "removal" costs. I suggested we do laminate and see if a friend who did the originals would be interested in ordering the formica and doing the work and it would be much less than their quote.
More coffee, some Advil for the joints and I will post some pics later of the color boards and really need help. Thank you all for your continued support and great ideas and suggestions!
Having removed a good amount of wallpaper myself over the years, I can relate. Your wall looks incredibly different already! Good job! When you finish the wallpaper removal, the worst will be over. Just wait until you get a fresh coat of paint on those walls, you will be amazed at the difference! I had to smile at your comment about maybe replacing the countertops, as we all know, once you start renovating, one thing leads to another....:)
Wow, it looks so much lighter and brighter and updated already!
Please post pictures of your progress!
(As an aside, I had an estimate from HD for laminate for a small kitchen, that was almost as much as granite because the labor cost was so high compared to the actual material.)
All finished and a 12 1/2 hour job with clean up. You all told me the difference would be amazing with that wallpaper gone and it really is. Aching all over but so worth it.
Visited Home Depot and two sheets of Wilsonart laminate in the needed sizes would only be $155 for the material. Sold, if we can find a handyman, and hopefully the friend who built the original countertops would be willing to replace it with new on top. They even sell a matching bullnose piece to replace the existing oak piece.
Now If I could just decide on the wall color. My pictures just don't read true I am afraid. Took my vinyl floor sample, cabinet door and counter sample to SW and she chose Interactive Cream and Sea Salt. I really don't like blue for the kitchen and doesn't go at all with other rooms on the first floor.
Manchester still in the running and I need to paint a larger piece of foam board.
This post was edited by tinker1121 on Tue, Jan 21, 14 at 15:41
This is an accurate picture of the cabinet color. (excuse the missing door I took off to take to the paint store).
Is Manchester Tan feasible and again, SW recommends Interactive Cream.
As someone mentioned, my pictures tend to read pink from my cell phone as you can see on the floor and soffits that are white under the removed wall paper.
What color laminate did you see at HD? It needs to work with the cabinet and paint colors.
The Interactive Cream looks awfully yellow on my computer. You will have to make a decision based on your light in your room. I understand you don't like the blue. But I fear you will end up emphasizing the yellow in the oak. Something that counteracts the oak might also complement the navy sink.
I really love the woodwork!
nice job, and your walls are in beautiful shape from what I can see. Just make sure there is no trace of paper paste - do a good washdown before painting.
Wallpaper removal stinks! Hard to put wallpaper on once you've done stripping because you know the "cost" of removing it.
No more wall paper for me!!!
I am learning how to work with Olioboard.com (thanks Mudhouse) and it is so helpful to see things all together. This is my first attempt and a bit primitive but again, really puts things in perspective with the tile and formica I saw yesterday.
It is fun playing and this is still the Woodstock White floors Manchester Tan paint, an accurate cabinet color, Wilsonart Bengal Slate laminate and an image of a blue sink.
When seeing it all together, formica seems wrong but I do love that glass tile.
Please advise what is wrong and right here.
I do still love Mudhouse's last design and need a formica for that board since deciding to get new laminate. I did order the bird print and need to see it IRL to see if it works.
(Oh, and that Interactive Cream is just wrong, especially in the evening light.)
I am stressing about the metal color. Cabinets have an antique brass which I can change, present faucet is polished brass and I have to choose a light for over the table.
Most lights are burnished bronze with an almost copper like edge and I don't like it at all. Quoizel has a new color "palladium bronze" which is a pretty brown with a more of a dull gold edging.
Can you suggest a faucet and color mayflower? Funny I thought about taking out the shelf but not sure if it will leave damage to the sides of those cabinets. It does come in handy too though I do agree it would look better without it.
I think you have two synthetic materials both trying to mimic natural stone. Maybe a laminate that wasn't trying to look like something else (or at least not like a similar stone)would work better.
Wilsonart Mystic Melange
This post was edited by ineffablespace on Tue, Jan 21, 14 at 20:10
does the Mystic Marine go with your blue sink? I know you're wavering on a new sink but maybe keep the blue. One thing you WILL want to do if you put in counters that are darker than what you have now is under cabinet lights. No question about it you won't be able to see what you're doing on your counter. I can see from your picture above your cams won't hit in a good spot for seeing what you're doing on the counter. The plug in ones are not expensive. The new LEDs I got the other day were about $22 for 20 inches or so. They are a lot whiter than the fluorescents I had but I don't care; as long as I can see what I'm doing and can read a recipe at night that's all I care. The whole kitchen can light up like an operating room if I want it to and I often do. Helps my mood during the long, dark, cold winter.
At least in CT, Nevamar and Pionite are only available through select lumber and hardware stores - only three in the whole state. Don't know where tinker lives but their website will give information as to dealers where she is. The products are very nice - didn't really price them out though.
There is a distributor about 15 miles away that carries Nevamar, per their website.
Appears they only carry Nevamar and not the Pionite but would have to check.
Here is a link that might be useful: Nevamar counters
This post was edited by tinker1121 on Wed, Jan 22, 14 at 4:46
Since the counter has to work with the sink, I would select that first. I would be cautious of locking myself into a solidly blue counter since you have seen how much trouble a little blue sink has caused.
I'd look for traditional styles for the faucet, backsplash, and light. You can't ignore the oak and accessorize with what's popular today in an entirely different style of kitchen. Remember, this is updated country.
The glass mosaic has all the right colors, but it is contemporary. Do you have a lot of tiling to do in the parts of the kitchen we haven't seen? A little of that tile goes a long way.
I think I agree that I don't want a blue counter as taking me back to the 80s once again locking in to too much color. I have to choose the formica first.
I do really like the formica (Bengal Slate) in the board I posted that has the tile but another floor would have to be chosen. And yes that tile is probably too contemporary.
I so appreciate this forum to steer me in the right direction.
Mudhouse's vision is pretty much perfect, and I think the issue is it was done with the premise I was keeping my existing counter. Maybe I just should and will continue to shop by trial and error.
I need to get shopping this weekend.
See if you can get Mannington Commercial vinyl. They make a number of patterns that are abstract speckles or linens and things that aren't trying too hard.
Here is a link that might be useful: Mannington Commercial
What about a grayed blue? This is French Blue Matrix from the Nevamar link. I agree the counter needs some blue or a gray with blue undertones or the sink will look like a random color thrown in. It will probably be easier to find flooring to match if you are in the gray family.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I am having fun with olioboard.com still. I received the artwork I asked mudhouse to include on her board (the bird on the branch) and colors are way too blue and yellow IRLand it is not of quality. It was a nice design but can't use that as a highlight.
I really like this floor and it doesn't fight my oak woodgrain. Need wall paint color suggestions for this scenario.
Go to the paint store. Pick a chip of every white, cream, gray, pale blue, pale yellow, pale pink, pale lavender, pale green, pale everything! Bring them all home. Stick them in the cracks of your cabinet doors, along the edge of the cabinets where they meet the wall, tucked into the molding of the wainscot. See what doesn't work. Take those down. See what doesn't appeal to you. Take those down. What do you have left?
I like!
luv_mkitchen has lovely Marmoleum. What is the pricing and upkeep/cleaning on this material.
Also, intereting how this is gravitaiting to warmer tones.
It will come together. This weekend I will gather all the paint, counter top and floor samples I can find.
Also have not ruled out replacing the blue sink. Would be sad to see it go though. It does have light scratches all around the rim but nothing major. I would think it would be $800 or more to get something of similar quality.
I've read about some problems with the click tiles but I don't know as that should stop you. I purposely bought Marmoleum sheet because it's my dog room. I knew vinyl would be destroyed in a year. It's just too soft. The Marmoleum is hard and slick. For my purpose it was exactly what I needed. My 12x26 came to about $2,000 with the heat welds which you wouldn't need. The prices I saw for vinyl were nearly the price of Marmoleum so I thought rather than do vinyl and then replace it in a year or two I'd just spend the money once and hopefully never again. Or at least not as long as I lived here. The original inlaid was from the 80's.
Cleaning. Dog room. Things happen. I use whatever is handy. At first I stuck with vinegar and water. Now I use whatever I need for the reason I'm cleaning. For dog pee I do use the heavy duty stuff from the dollar store, Awsome. My driveway to the barn is little gravel pebbles that sticks in the bottoms of my shoes. So far they haven't done damage when I've walked on the floor. I do see dog toenail tracks when the floor is wet (from the dogs who do the Road Runner impersonation). But the color goes all the way through the floor so it really isn't noticeable at any time. I see it because I'm looking for it. And the light has to be shining on it.
What is the floor in your Olioboard?
Do you want Marmoleum in your dining area? It's kitcheny. I wouldn't use upholstered chairs with it, but I think those chairs are too dressy for an eat-in kitchen with a country oak table anyway.
Take your time and find a few countertop samples that you and your cabinets love. It has to start there, whether you keep the sink or not. The cabinets are staying.
There are 10 divisions of Marmoleum and each has a BUNCH of colors and patterns. You can do anything with it. My point was it was more resilient than vinyl but tinker doesn't need such a bullet proof floor. She could certainly have it and I bet it will be in the same price point as the vinyl she's looking at.
Here is a link that might be useful: Marmoleum
I cast a vote for keeping the blue sink. Re the bird and leaves print, although I really like it, my concern is the size. If you have to offset it so as to not cover the light switch, it will always seem as if it was just put up "crooked." Don't get too far ahead of yourself and overthink this to death. I would stick with neutrals for now in the things you feel you must change, which will leave you a lot of room to bring in accents that you like.... picking up the blue in a print, curtains and whatever on the counters... until you want to deal with the next change. Be careful you don't turn this redesign turn into a remodel as it almost seems to be doing.
I do think this is more difficult than a remodel! What do I change, what goes or stays and then have to find something I like and goes with the cabinets and wainscoat etc.
I am still in awe of how different the kitchen looks without that dreadful wall paper. The wood does not seem as orange or as dominating. As suggested here, I should have just gotten that off FIRST, digested the new space and then start gathering ideas for colors, décor etc.
Back to the blue sink. Finding formica to go with it is proving to be difficult and my thought is new formica and a tile backsplash with that old sink is like "putting lipstick on a pig" something I read here. I think I would have to stay neutral with the counter color and if that is the case, might as well keep my current formica? Keeping the sink makes the metal choices harder for a faucet, cabinet hardware and a light.
I have considered a new bisque sink or a little darker beige porcelain sink with a matching faucet with new counters and a tile backsplash. I really do think if new laminate is found, the sink will be going.
I am taking my time and all will evolve as I find the time to look for materials and get the colors right. I have ordered some 8 x 10 Formica and Wilsonart samples as working with 2" pieces is pretty much impossible.
I don't think I want to get into Marmoleum but thanks for suggesting. I only need 168 square feet of flooring and looking at the "better and best" lines of vinyl the material will be $500 to $650. Armstrong makes a beautiful vinyl tile.
Thanks again for ALL of your input and continued support. It will be a happy day when I post the end results. I just want it to be nice and not have any regrets or waste $ on the wrong thing.
(lol at my own self and attachment to the leaf and bird picture!)
Why don't you keep the old Formica counters? They look neutral and in good shape. If you really don't like the Formica backsplash, perhaps you could paint over it, or just remove that.
Also, with respect to the leaves art, could you just tape a piece of paper the size of it on the wall and see how that looks? You have that art piece, right, and like it?
If your sink is limiting your design choices, don't feel bad about replacing it. You got 25 years out of the sink and the Formica.
Make sure the undertones are a very close match in your counters and floor. Pick one of the two to provide a little movement. The counter might be best because of the wainscot.
I recommended keeping your old hardware in your first thread, but when you posted the sink wall, I felt the cabinets could use a little sparkle or shine with a reflective metal.
The dining room might benefit from a reflective metal for the light fixture too. A more open style light fixture (no heavy glass shades) would help lighten the upper part of that room. In the mock-up of the bird mural, the clean and bright colors provided that lightness, but in real life, it added to the heaviness.
Never thought of just replacing the sink. That is a great idea and good for the budget.
Snowing here and lots of time to play with olioboard. Picked up this floor sample yesterday and almost sure it will be The One. Lighter and more muted than showing here.
Paint is Richmond Bisque, Formica is Mocha Travertine (looks pinky in this picture and not true representation), light is $435 and too expensive and an almond sink.
Do you dislike the sink? I'm biased, but I love blue, especially navy, and love what mudhouse suggested above. It also looks like the current Formica goes well with the sink.
Now, of course, if you hate your sink, that's a different story.
It sounds like at this point, you're not quite sure which components of your current kitchen you like and dislike. So, perhaps it's best to proceed slowly with figuring out what you absolutely will not change, e.g. the cabinets and paneling, and then paint the walls, get a new neutral floor that goes with the cabinets, and a new light fixture and faucet.
It's barely going.
I have decided it is not meant to be to replace the counters and the sink. I spent hours online and at HD, Lowes and a kitchen showroom looking for something to coordinate with the cabinets, wainscoat and old or new sink (sink of the same quality as what I have would run close to $600).
There is nothing wrong with either and the blue sink still appeals to me and as others said he counter is neutral and I can always add a backsplash.
Yes, the navy will still dominate but it is a nice color. Pottery Barn has a page of Indigo and I am seeing more blue in the Pier One wall art. I can again tie it in with the curtain fabric, placemats and chairs if I decide to replace the oak chairs
Luv_mkitchen has a great idea to see if the leaf and bird wall hanging could be shortened! It is wood and I have to take it back out of the box to see the construction and what would be compromised. If that won't work, it will be fun to find just the right things for the walls. I will also get a new light and cabinet hardware and hopefully a faucet.
So far having no luck with choosing paint either.
Choosing the paint color is more than aggravating. So far I have tried Kilim Beige (a little heavy and dark at night), the Manchester Tan looks greenish/gray (maybe too cool and sort of weird with the oak colored wood), Interactive Cream (suggested by SW rep and way too orange) and yesterday stopped again and she gave me Believable Buff (looks too dark gold).
I think I need to go lighter and should have picked up the Antique White mentioned here and the color above the Believable Buff.
Below is the Armstrong Floor in Woodstock white and the best one I have found IRL. I think it looks good in Mudhouse's board, and the suggested Chip It colors. I should have done this first to avoid all those wrong colors.
Thanks for asking and all paint color advice will be appreciated! That is not fun at all. Shopping for lights online is as soooo many beautiful choices.
There is nothing at all wrong with keeping the blue sink. It's one choice in the design plan that will draw the eye. I'm simply talking about having a vision, which it sounds like you have, and working the vision. I'm talking about not letting an extra expense be a deterrant, if it's within your budget and is part of your plan. Your olioboards have been wonderful, and you're worth the spurge of an updated kitchen.
Regarding the paint problem, I suggest you buy some samples, and paint one part of one side of an old board. That way you have a larger color sample to move about the room and view at different times of the day. That has helped me in making paint decisions. Also, the talented GW folks will see you through this. They're excited about your kitchen and what you're doing.
Tinker - don't get discouraged with the paint. You may want to consider getting some white paint - if you don't have already - and start mixing up some different sample from what you have. It sounds like you have enough different shades to play around. If you mix up something you think will work have it color matched to paint a larger area to see if you like.
I guess this is a classic case of kissing many toads to find the prince. Your color is out there waiting for you to find it.
Thank you all for your continued support! This is such a small project compared to the magnificent remodels going on here but you all spend just as much time and effort on a small project like this AND put up with my indecisiveness. I really really do appreciate this forum!
I will visit SW once again on my way to work and she is also very patient with me. I don't think I really want to get in to mixing up my own color but thanks for suggesting. I will try the Antique White and funny thing I saw the Maison Blanche sample from my Chip It last visit but didn't pick it up so now worth buying the quart sample. I have a 25% coupon and sample are only $5 and what does one do with all of those different colors later!? lol Again, the Chip It is pulling colors from an online photo and reality may not be the same. I have a mini roller and pan and rolling the colors right onto the wall but need to slow down until the spackling is sanded and not roll over it. DH is a saint.
I love the Olio Boards but they add to the pressure to find the right items in the right colors and quality with my end result looking similar. Biggest disappointment is the selection of vinyl flooring patterns out there. So many bad faux slate and stone patterns and my thought is they have to run their course soon. I love the pattern and colors of the floors on my olio board but again, finding it IRL is difficult.
Onward and upward and THANKS for the pep talk!
I hear ya on the bad faux stone patterns. I don't think word of the demise of the 1990s Tuscan style has reached the vinyl floor manufacturers yet.
Do you still have the Armstrong Woodstock White sample? Can you take a photo of it on your kitchen floor but step back to include the sink wall cabinets? The close-up photos don't tell us how it reads on the floor from a distance.
Mixing the paint you have with white will lighten up a too dark color. If you find a mix that works, the paint store can do a color match off your board. What to do with all your trial and error paint? Mix it all together and you'll have a gallon of "free" paint. Someone will want it. Or take it to Habitat and donate.
I agree. It's time for wine and relaxation. Get away from all of it for a week. Or two. It clears the eyes.
Visit some open houses in your area this weekend, check the listings first to see if they have oak kitchens. Yes, it's snooping, but go in and out quick and you won't keep the agents for too long. You might see things that work and, just as importantly, things that don't!
I took a well needed break from spinning my wheels and being indecisive and things are now coming together.
The blue sink is going. You will find it on Craigs List sometime soon!
I came to the conclusion that a darker counter will give me the pop and interest I lost from removing the wallpaper and decided on Formica Labrador Granite. It is a soft black with some cream, gold and touch of brown and rust.
I see the sink as bisque as have bisque fridge and stove and thought I would like cast iron again but suggestions appreciated. May keep my polished brass faucet but ideas welcome
I stumbled on this beautiful valance and the print and colors hard to see but cream, black and bit of tan/gold. Very classy and looks like I am heading from Country to assort of French Country but I like it for this old house.
I am still undecided on paint color and used BM Gentle Cream on this board and when the valance I ordered today comes in will take it to the paint and flooring stores. Any suggestions for a wall color appreciated.
The light is not a definite but I like it as a bit shiney so some bling. Also love the shadow box wall hanging.
Soooo, this is what looks great so far in real life and I have regained my confidence as like this a lot. It feels right.
Any opinions, ideas, comments are welcome. I am almost there! Still need a floor, paint color, sink, maybe a faucet and cabinet hardware. It is now becoming fun.
I bought a couple of items from this site deeply discounted, one had a touch of damage to the finish which is only noticed by me and is doing great two years later.
Here is a link that might be useful: great deal that will work well
Love the fabric. I like black as an accent, and this looks like a softer charcoal black. I'd replace the faucet because it looks small by today's standards and yes, it's dated.
When you were in SW, did you happen to see a brochure of paint samples called Whites and Lights? There's about 50 colors and it will help get you in the right neutral color family.
We also have Labrador laminate counters in our kitchen. Before we painted our cabinets white, they were an oak, a bit darker than golden, but not much. The oak and the Labrador looked fantastic together. : ) I think Labrador is a nice looking laminate overall.
I will caution you that I do find that the dark laminate gobbles the light up in our kitchen, and we have a big window over our counter. I would highly recommend doing under-cabinet lighting. I'd recommend the lighting regardless, but especially if you go with a dark counter.
The other thing that took some getting used to is that Labrador hides everything in it's mottled coloration. Crumbs, goo, you name it. I have to clean it by feel more than by sight. I also think I've scrubbed some of the shine off in the 5 years that we have had it installed. Probably all that obsessive wiping of hidden crumbs. ;-)
Of course, you do realize that going with this color scheme means you'll need to invest in a black and tan dog. : )
Ok, this is great feedback. To hear from someone with the Labrador laminate is wonderful!! Lov_mkitchen has been such great help to me and also recommends the under cabinet lighting. Not sure DH will want to hear about another change and work involved for under cabinet lighting, but he is the one who taught me the theory "Do it right, or don't do it at all". :)
I am finally having fun and excitement for this project and thanks again to all the Garden Webbers!
Ooh, yes, I like that fabric!
I also like bisque with black and tan and dark brown.
I would like to see the Armstrong floor next to the counter chip and your cabinet in real life. I really like it and think it will look great with your valance. Somehow I don't think that the chip-it has brought out quite the right colors, though. They tend toward all mauve-y and I don't see mauve in the floor on my screen, either in your pics or on the Armstrong website.
BTW did you check out the Armstrong website room designer? you can plug in your floor choice, and paint the room in scads of different colors from SW, BM, PP and Olympic. The only flaw is the choice of cabinets is limited to 7 colors so you just have to go with the closest.
I really liked the counter style they show in the casual kitchen. Sort of a dark gray-black.
The Armstrong designer is limited. They show more floor than wall space and rooms are really limited to choose from. I will try to get a picture of the counter chip with the cabinets and awaiting a 5 x 7 sample from Formica.
Valance should be here tomorrow and this weekend I can hopefully choose the paint color and take another look at floor samples to go with the Labrador Granite formica. Armstrong Woodstock White still in the running as I like the pattern a lot.
I am loving the black and tan theme and can't wait to see the valance IRL.
When my kids first glanced at your dog picture, they thought it was a deer, LOL.
We used some kind of laminate for our backsplash. It's a light, neutral, tan that we bought on closeout at Bargain Outlet about 10 years ago (for $5.00 a sheet. Whoo-hoo. That was when they had REAL bargains.) so I don't know exactly what kind it is. It's close to the Wilsonart Almond Leather and Wilsonart Beige Pampas samples that I have. I know it's not very popular to have laminate backsplashes on GW, but we've found it to be a great, easy care surface, even behind our smooth top electric stove. Here is an older picture from mid remodel.
I have a laminate backsplash now, same formica as the counter and always liked it especially behind the sink. I don't think I will do it this time as the Labrador color too dark.
I have black plastic on my counters now, testing out the "dark" and I think it will be very pretty. I think I would like a cream tile backsplash with a little black & tan accent somewhere.
Tinker,you've been on my mind. It's good to hear back from you so soon. Love your selections, very classy. Black counters look wonderful with oak. I too have black mottled counters, and they do suck up the light. You definately do need under cabinet lights. While you're at it, please add lighting to that pretty glass cabinet and shelf above the sink. What about blackish knobs for the cabinets?
I had a new Koehler bisque sink prior to my remodel. It was a thing of beauty but seemed to scratch and lose it's shine too easily for my taste. My selection was to go with a Franke stainless just because of the durability factor.
Mudhouse, the adjoining living room is painted Pittsfield Buff a light gold and carpeting is a medium tan. Furniture is beige chenille in a cream and light tan and then accents of brown with a brown leather chair, lamps and cream drapes. Accents in the room are brown, gold and some dark red accessories. Room behind the kitchen was once an open back porch and we enclosed it years ago and my computer, utility room. Off white walls with taupe berber carpet and brown and cream toile curtains. I seem to always end up with safe neutrals but it works in this old house.
Texas gal I was thinking of black hardware but trying not to have to change out the antique brass cabinet hinges with so looking for something with a rubbed/antique finish that is black and brass like. Saw some nice ones online but man can they be costly. The rubbed bronze look is everywhere but the copper colored edges are just so harsh looking to me though I like the darkness of the metal. I need 29 knobs so not too bad and I would splurge on just the right thing as it could make a nice impact I think.
Funny you should mention the sink and appreciate the feedback on a bisque sink. Would be pretty with the Labrador formica but feel I am just swapping out for color to get the same style again and close to $600 as want a deep two bowl with one larger bowl. I seem to get too matchy matchy at times and the thought of a stainless sink makes me think cool and contemporary. Probably because the infamous blue sink was more or less the centerpiece of he downhome county kitchen I am overthinking it. (Me, overthink?!)
I have kitchen on the brain and turned on the tv this morning and it was a QVC kitchen show demonstrating a colander and draining pasta into the stainless steel sink on the set!! I thought hey, how about a stainless sink since hopefully this is my forever kitchen. What color faucet would I use and can a sink be undermounted in formica? I don't think so but will ask my counter guy who is coming by this week.
I am finally having fun and this color scheme seems right all the way around. The valance should come today and hopefully I can make the final floor and paint selection this weekend. I am seriously considering paying a colorist to come by and help with the paint color. Heck, I have spent that much already on paint samples! Not to worry as I can mix all the neutrals together and will paint the stairway off the door in the kitchen leading to the basement.
Take a look at the Kohler Vault series of SS sinks. They are drop-in/undermount and have a very thin profile where the edge rests on the counter. I'm looking at the one with the low divide, but there are several other configurations.
The black plastic was a great idea and looks fabulous!
I would investigate the cost of using large format tile as a more upscale and durable countertop.
Here is a link that might be useful: tiled countertop
Would you consider a black sink? In our last house, we had honed Basalt Slate Formica countertops, and a black "granite" sink by Pegasus (Blanco). I still miss that big, beautiful, single-bowl sink. Sigh. I bought it at HD in 2007 for
Listing photo:
We now have an white acrylic farmhouse style that is scratching and dulling at an alarming rate. It "pops" next to the dark granite-look laminate, but, I really hate the combination and am plotting a complete re-do.
The dark counter tops will definitely suck up light, so do consider more lighting. I feel your wallpaper removal pain. Last house was a huge removal project. When we were house-hunting last spring, "no wallpaper" was top of our list of must haves ;)
May flower, that tiled counter is beautiful! I really see that as fragile if something were to be dropped on it. Not sure I would want to have to worry about it.
Junco, I will check out those sinks. What color faucet would I use with a stainless sink if sticking with darkish black and gold cabinet hardware. (don't want to change out the brass hinges and leaded glass in top cabinet is gold tone).
Tinker, Mayflowers is a professional and knows her materials. I'm a formica fan also but have heard that it does not have the durability now as in years past, that the surface dulls in worn areas. You may want to ask her about this or research the issue on this forum. However, I really do like your formica selection.
Mayflower, per the link you posted I was pleasantly surprised to read how inexpensively they did that beautiful counter.
My goal here is not to break the bank as the market in this area not great and hopefully this redo will be the last and I like what I saw with the 24" square tiles and would surely last a long time.
Can I assume that they could over my existing formica a sink could be undermounted if 24" porcelain or granite tiles are used I would love and undermounted sink and what material other than SS?
Thanks for the idea and I will look for a source to check out the tiles. I still am working with that last color scheme with the valance and think I want a dark counter. Would that be easier to achieve with 24: granite tiles than porcelain?
Doing my research and liking what I read about tile counters. They are so much more classy than laminate and if old fashioned, so be it as this house IS old.
Labor would be most of the cost and could this go over my formica? New formica involves the material which I estimate to be $180, plus new wood base, cost unknown and then the labor.
I am excited about this and any and all examples, color ideas appreciated.
Here is a link that might be useful: More info on tiled counters
No, I'm not a professional, but Bill Vincent, who posted in your link, is a master craftsman who now posts on the John Bridges forum. It would be worth your while to post over there. Do you have a good tile store in your area with knowledgeable sales people?
I think it's a better choice if you're going to do a tiled backsplash.
I am going to stop at a tile store tomorrow as think this is a great idea. We used to be DIYers and did tons of work to this little house but don't have the patience for it. It is a miracle in itself that I got the wall paper off!
I am not aware of that forum and will check it out and thanks to Bill (screenname?) and all who are guiding me. I surely need it! Running out of space on Part II.


text:
Radio Unnameable (2012)
Movie Info
Legendary radio personality Bob Fass revolutionized late night FM radio by serving as a cultural hub for music, politics and audience participation for nearly 50 years. Long before today's innovations in social media, Fass utilized the airwaves for mobilization encouraging luminaries and ordinary listeners to talk openly and take the program in surprising directions. Radio Unnameable is a visual and aural collage that pulls from Bob Fass's immense archive of audio from his program, film, … More
- Rating:
- Unrated
- Genre:
- Documentary , Television , Special Interest
- Directed By:
- Jessica Wolfson , Paul Lovelace
- In Theaters:
- Sep 18, 2012 Limited
- On DVD:
- Sep 10, 2013
- Box Office:
- $24.0k
- Runtime:
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Critics Consensus: Trouble with the Curve Is Solid But Predictable
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LoginCritic Reviews for Radio Unnameable
All Critics (14) | Top Critics (8) | Fresh (13) | Rotten (0)
Paul Lovelace and Jessica Wolfson's love letter to Bob and his legendary program, Radio Unnameable, rewrites the record and places the disc jockey in the pantheon beside his louder contemporaries.
You're overwhelmed by the feeling that you've seen this tale of corporate greed and arrogant mismanagement before. Still, the filmmakers tell it with gusto.
Radio Unnameable is at its best when it tries to find some visual analog to Fass' vibe, courtesy of cinematographer John Pirozzi, who takes beautiful snapshots of a sleepless city.
...a great window into the days before cell phones and Twitter, when broadcast radio played a key role not only in delivering information to people, but also in giving them a voice and bringing them together.
Beautifully sets up the feel and the times. . .with archival photographs and footage [but] distracts from. . .the intimate aural relationship between Fass and his audience.
Directors Paul Lovelace and Jessica Wolfson weave together archival visual and aural materials along with new interviews with Fass, his wife, Lynnie, and other WBAI alumni.
A treasure trove of both visual and aural footage makes this terrific doc a keeper. Its affectionate appreciation of one man's long, strange trip through history make it a helluva lot of fun.
A richly conceived archival tribute to the very miracle of Radio Unnameable's survival despite it all. And a troubling irony as peripherally depicted in this documentary, with Fass often in furious battle to prevail on air. A Tale Of Two Radio Stations
It can make you wish - or, if you're lucky, remember - that you were a sleepless New Yorker in 1967, kept from loneliness by a gentle, soulful voice on the radio.
A sporadically hard-selling homage to a cult hero from an overchronicled era ...
As haunting and heroic as anything you'll see on the big screen this year.
Gimlet-eyed view of a legendary pioneer of "free form" radio as well as a probing examination of the Balkanization of the left.
While crediting free-form radio pioneer Bob Fass with changing the culture of broadcasting, this doc remains clear-eyed about the decline of community radio and the New Left.
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subset: commoncrawl


text:
Roll Over Image to Zoom
Butterfly Chandelier
No longer available
- Overview
- A flurry of butterflies creates a magical sight overhead. Made of sturdy paper. 23.5" diam., 28" h.
- Shipping Info
Please allow 5-7 business days for delivery. Delivery estimate includes monogrammed and gift-wrapped items.
To confirm delivery time frames in your area, please call 800.993.4923.


text:
The K 77 headphones from AKG provide professional-quality sound at a very affordable price. These closed-back dynamic headphones feature a self-adjusting headband and circumaural leatherette ear cushions for long-lasting comfort. A wide frequency response provides deep bass and clear treble.
The single-sided cable helps to minimize tangles, and the standard 3.5mm plug is compatible with a wide variety of audio devices. A 1/4" plug adapter is included for connecting to pro-level audio gear.
Type | Circumaural, Closed-Back, Dynamic |
Frequency Range | 18Hz - 20kHz |
Impedance | 32 Ohms |
Sensitivity | 115dB |
Maximum Input Power | 200mW |
Connectors | Standard 3.5mm Stereo Mini Plug with 1/4" Adapter |
Cable Length | 8.2' (2.5m) Single-Sided |
Weight | 6.7 oz (190g) (Without Cable) |


text:
NFL Calendar
Updated: April 4, 2013, 8:22 AM ET
Associated Press
April 25-27 -- NFL draft, New York
May 20-22 -- NFL spring league meeting, Boston
Sept. 5, 8-9 -- 2013 NFL season begins.
Read full story
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- McShay: Mariota to Jets in Mock Draft 3.0
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text: I thought this (http://www.torredehanoi.org/pub/lfs-livecd/lfslivecd- x86_64-CRS051009-pre1.iso) would be a 64-bit LiveCD. It isn't really the kernel config's fault, that the keyboard doesn't work. As far as I know the efi (mac-bios) has a bug. Ubuntu hasn't solved this problem, too. The only solution I found is to use refit on a usb stick. refit is an efi not developed by apple and hasn't this keyboard-bug. Am 03.07.2007 um 04:53 schrieb Alexander E. Patrakov: > Christoph Ostarek wrote: >> Now, some news about the keyboard on macbook. >> >> Ok, on normal boot, keyboard doesn't work with the lfs-live-cd. >> But: I simply installed refit on my usb-stick and I booted from usb >> and then from cd. >> And it worked great. >> But: only with the 32-bit edition; on 64-bit edition, it didn't > > There is no 64-bit edition of the CD. Please use a 32-bit CD and type > "linux64" at the boot prompt. > > As for a non-working keyboard - could you please send a working kernel > config file, so that I can see what's wrong? > > -- > Alexander E. Patrakov > > -- > http://linuxfromscratch.org/mailman/listinfo/livecd > FAQ: http://www.linuxfromscratch.org/faq/ > Unsubscribe: See the above information page


text:
Return to Slide Library
The estimated native (i.e., without pharmacological prophylaxis) incidence of DVT after THR and TKR surgery was 39 percent and 46 percent, respectively. Pharmacological prophylaxis decreases the risk of DVT with some increased risk of minor bleeding when compared with no pharmacological prophylaxis. There is some evidence that LMWH decreases risk for DVT when compared with warfarin at the expense of increases in major and minor bleeding. LMWH provides greater protection against DVT and PE when compared with unfractionated heparin while reducing the risk of bleeding and heparin-induced thrombocytopenia. In contrast, LMWH was not as effective in protecting against the risk of DVT when compared with an injectable factor Xa inhibitor, although the odds of bleeding were reduced. Prolonged prophylaxis decreased the risk of thromboembolism at the risk of increased minor bleeding when compared with standard-duration prophylaxis. No differences in mortality outcomes were observed for any of the interventions compared; however, this may be related to the infrequency of this outcome and the length of followup.After this review was completed, rivaroxaban, an oral factor Xa inhibitor, was approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for this population of patients based primarily on the four Regulation of Coagulation in Orthopedic Surgery to Prevent Deep Venous Thrombosis and Pulmonary Embolism (RECORD) trials. Rivaroxaban decreased the risk of the composite primary outcome of DVT, nonfatal PE, or all-cause mortality in patients undergoing major orthopedic surgery. RECORD 1 and 2 showed superiority of prolonged prophylaxis with rivaroxaban versus enoxaparin (prolonged or standard-duration prophylaxis) with a decreased risk of the primary outcome in patients undergoing THR. RECORD 3 and 4 suggested that rivaroxaban decreases the risk of the primary outcome versus enoxaparin when used for prophylaxis for patients undergoing TKR. There were no significant differences in mortality or the risk for bleeding outcomes in all four trials.
Abbreviations: DVT = deep vein thrombosis; LMWH = low-molecular-weight heparin; PE = pulmonary embolism; THR = total hip replacement; TKR = total knee replacement
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text:
York City v Barrow
York City could give a start to Peter Till after he came off the bench to score at Bath on Saturday.Full-back Duane Courtney is getting close to full fitness and could replace stand-in Danny Parslow. Barrow are hopeful that Paul Edwards, Marc Goodfellow and Paul Rutherford will all be able to shake off knocks in time to play at York. Striker Danny Forrest should retain his place, while Paul Jones (Achilles) is expected to start..... read more
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text:
Chicago85 at karmaloop.com for 20% off
Don't badmind me.
^^^idunno ♥♥♥♥♥, how do you not just wanna fuck her
Fuck outta here with this bullshit.
^^^idunno ♥♥♥♥♥, how do you not just wanna fuck her
moarrr basedqueen or lil debbie w.e
Doesn't matter would still smash without a thought.
Just signed a deal with Sony. Crazy. Good for her.
she needs to bring her black friend back
By Sunday morning, the rumors started spilling in from all sides. After negotiations over the past half-month with every major label under the sun, Kreayshawn had signed a rather unprecedented, hefty, record deal. And just like that, it was all a dream.


text:
Tuesday, Mar 03 • 10 a.m. (ET)
King v. Burwell And The Future Of Obamacare
The Supreme Court takes up a major challenge to the Affordable Care Act this week. The ruling could make health insurance unaffordable for millions of Americans. We take a look at King v. Burwell and the future of the ACA.


text:
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This project is super simple meaning that it has no wires so it isn't that loud but it is a bit louder than usual. This is my first instruct able so I...
Materials required Paper towel roll or toilet roll(make sure it's just the piece, not with anything on it) 2 cups of any type I used foam but just mak...
Ok now get your roll and your scissors and cut a hole the size of your device. You can use the pen or marker to make a mark on where to cut if you wan...
Ok now grab the cups(that's what she said) and cut a hole in each one. make sure that the cups fit the roll you are using and also make sure it's not ...
Ok so now you grab your roll and the cups and put them on each side of the roll. If your roll is to big but your cups can almost fit then just squeeze...
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1:35 pm
Tue May 27, 2014
Gubernatorial Hopeful Asa Hutchinson Rolls Out Public Safety Plan
Republican gubernatorial candidate Asa Hutchinson rolled out a plan he says is aimed at reforming public safety and reducing drug abuse in Arkansas.
"We know crime is more than a news story when a person worries about a home invasion or a neighborhood bank robbery," Hutchinson said. "You also have the frustration of business owners and economic developers unable to hire new employees because of illegal drug use. This reality makes it doubly difficult for Arkansas to accomplish its goals in terms of economic growth and job creation. Too often, when a violent crime occurs, we see early release from prison as a factor or drugs, and many times it is both."
The five-point plan includes:
- Improved accountability and supervision for parolees released from prison
- More resources for state law enforcement and drug task forces
- Support for proven and effective re-entry programs
- Offer technical and expert assistance in school security and safety
- Increased funding for drug treatment courts
Citing his experience as a former federal prosecutor and official with the Drug Enforcement Agency, Hutchinson said he's studied the issue for years.
Hutchinson said that more resources would be dedicated to the state's parole system, but he said he hoped it would not require a large number of increased parole officers. He estimated that a price tag for more parole officers could be as much as $1 million.
He said the state should "tweak" and "adjust" Act 570 to give prosecutors "more leverage." Act 570 was a comprehensive overhaul of the state's sentencing and parole system passed by the legislature in the 2011 General Assembly. He emphasized that he would not repeal Act 570.
Hutchinson cited as an example that prosecutors should have flexibility to determine if certain property crimes rise to the level of needed incarceration. Hutchinson also said that he would dedicate $300,000 in new money geared towards effective re-entry programs that he's studied that have 95% placement rates and low recidivism rates.
"Arkansas cannot achieve its objectives in economic development and job creation without a work force that is drug free," Hutchinson said, adding that violent crime and drug abuse is "hurting efforts to recruit businesses to Arkansas."
On the issue of building a new prison – which could cost $75 million – Hutchinson said he would be willing to budget for the cost after estimates from a pending study are returned. Still, Hutchinson placed his emphasis on the fact that the parole system can and should work better.
"A job can be the best way to avoid someone going back into a life of crime," he said.
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Metro Hotel with 15 rooms, £70-£160 pppn, £85-£110 prpnb
Built astride the ancient City walls of Canterbury and standing in the shadow of Henry II's Great Keep itself -reputedly the third largest in the Kingdom- stands Castle House. Your choice for a unique experience steeped in history.
Small Hotel with 15 rooms, £100-£140 pppnb, £10-£185 prpnb
Located a short walk from the City centre, this elegant Victorian hotel offers well appointed en suite accommodation, indoor heated pool, restaurant, free parking, a large garden and self catering cottages.
Guest Accommodation with 6 rooms, £50-£125 prpnb
Offering a warm welcome and individual attention to detail this lovely Georgian home is set in a quiet conservation area. Ideal location for short breaks, long weekends or business trips.
Guest Accommodation with 9 rooms, £60-£120 prpnb
Home to a beautiful 12th century chapel and gardens, Greyfriars Lodge is set within the very centre of Canterbury. Stunning Canterbury Cathedral is just 3 minutes walk away, and guests can reach the Marlowe Theatre and Roman Museum.
Guest House with 7 rooms, £40-£75 prpnb
Family run guest house located within the city walls. The rooms have a wash basin and TV. There are 3 full bathrooms, 2 extra toilet and another shower shared by all guests.
Inn with 11 rooms, £70-£95 prpnb
The Millers Arms was built in 1826 to serve local mill workers and overlooks the Cathedral and the site of the old mill on the causeway.


text:
Spotlight: Member Stories
My name's Brittany, my boyfriend and I are highschool sweethearts, just celebrated our 8 year anniversary, and we have a 2 1/2 (April 3, 2008) yea...More
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am now 3 weeks late i did take a test and was neg but my tummy is starting to get hard!! any ideas? More
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Respondents were unsure whether, when compared to adult dog foods, senior foods would contain more or less phosphorousrestrictions of which may be beneficial in dogs with kidney disease. The actual diets had a three-fold difference in phosphorous content, including one diet that contained three times the AAFCO minimum for the mineral.
Sixty-three percent of the respondents said that ingredients were the most important factor when selecting a food for a senior dog. "This shows that we have much more work to do to educate the public," said Hutchinson, Freeman's co-author. "Factors that are equally, if not more, important are that the food is made by a well-established companyone with at least one veterinary nutritionist or qualified nutritionist on-staffthat has proven the food's nutritional adequacy through AAFCO feeding trials, and that has rigorous quality control standards."
The study illustrates a great deal of confusion in the marketplace, Freeman says, and it's important for owners to be aware that every "senior diet" is different and so may or may not be appropriate for an individual dog, depending upon his or her body condition and health.
"The decision to buy a certain type of food for your aging dog is an emotional one: you want to extend her life and ensure she's healthy well into her twilight years," Dr. Freeman says. However, not all older dogs require a senior die
Contact: Tom Keppeler 508-839-7910 Tufts University, Health Sciences Source:Eurekalert |


text:
Cowboys Happy With First Game in New Stadium
POSTED: Monday, August 24, 2009 - 7:51pm
UPDATED: Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 11:33am
Grand Openings tend to be a marque moment for stores, organizations and such, but for Tony Romo and the Cowboys, playing the first time in their new stadium took on a whole new meaning of cutting the ribbon. Overcoming the pressure to succeed and perform well, Romo went 18-of-24 for nearly 200 yards in a 30-10 Dallas victory.
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text:
Here's the solution to those rainy-day doldrums
Dora & Boots Ice Skating PuzzleThese best friends are also great skating partners! |
Dora Spot the DifferencesThese two snowy scenes have six small differences. Help kids spot them all. |
Dora Soccer PuzzlesPrint to score big points with your preschooler during playtime! |
Dora Roller Skating PuzzlePut the pieces in place so that Dora can skate! |
Dora's Springtime PuzzleKids can piece together this pretty spring scene with Dora |
Dora's Royal Book HuntKids can help Dora rescue the royal storybooks in this hidden picture activity |
Dora Activity PlacematsKeep little explorers entertained at the table with puzzles and games. �Excelente! |
Dora Dance Spot the DifferencesSomeone in each row looks different than the rest! |
Dora's Printable PuzzlesTurn these springtime scenes into jigsaw puzzles with your Dora fan |


text: Liberty moves itself By: David Winzelberg July 7, 2009 Comments Off Liberty Moving and Storage has moved into a new 75,000-square-foot headquarters on Moreland Road in Commack. The new building, located in the Hauppauge Industrial Park, has 14 loading bays to accommodate the company's fleet of 75 trucks. To celebrate Liberty's 70th year in business, the company will hold an open house in the beginning of October. Subscribe Login Email Address: Password: Already a paid subscriber but not registered for online access yet? For instructions on how to get premium web access, click here.Forgot your password? Print, Digital & Mobile1 Year$129 Digital & Mobile Only1 Month Intro Rate$2.99----------1 Year$99 Digital & Mobile Only1 Month Intro Rate$2.99----------1 Year$99 Print, Digital & Mobile1 Year$129 Print, Digital & Mobile1 Year$129----------Digital & Mobile Only1 Month Intro Rate$2.99----------1 Year$99 Share this:EmailPrintFacebookTwitterGoogle +1 Hauppauge Industrial Park Liberty Moving and Storage 2:25 pm Tue, July 7, 2009 Long Island Business News David Winzelberg


text:
i'm searching for a hentai game, quite old, that was, i think, named "the secret manison" - about a guy from tokio walking in the mountains, falling and waking up in a secret mansion, in another dimension of reality ... full of pretty girls, that he has to rescue.
i really liked it, but i played it for years ago, with my first boyfriend, and since we've been apart, i haven't been looking it up. i'd really like to find it again, to restore my memories :)
if anyone knows anything about it, i'll be really greatfull!


text: Ok, I'm going thru the BLFS atm, and all their config files for the input, bashrc etc, i dont want to have to type out so im chucking them onto a floppy from my windows machine...when i mount it with this cmd in linux i get a heap of weird characters...i think it may be even loading some of whats IN the file as the FILENAME... mount -t vfat /dev/fd0 /mnt/floppy any ideas as to why this may be happening? _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail -- Unsubscribe: send email to listar at linuxfromscratch.org and put 'unsubscribe lfs-support' in the subject header of the message


text:
Jun 25, 2010, 02:42 PM | |||
Infact 2 0r 3yrs ago i believe In AMA superbike racing the Kawasaki zx10 had THEE most Hp out of all the bikes on the grid.They never won 1 race or even touched the podium.Heck they didn't even see a top 5 position at all.LOLThe suzuki's were the slowest bike threough the speed trap but Mat and Ben would be well over 10sec to over 18secs over 3rd place. |
Jun 25, 2010, 04:26 PM | ||
totally agree with you there.... top speed don't meen jack.... it's just interesting how people like to use it as a reason for a rider winning or losing... depending on which rider it was they want to win.....
see previous post ..... Quote:
Horse power and top speed only tell a little bit of the story.... and you can't read how well the suspension operates, nor can you read on motogp.com what the tyre wear is like, or how good the bike is under brakes and turn in.... Just yanken the chain.... |
Jun 26, 2010, 07:45 AM | |
Watch live on race days... http://www.motogp.com/en
click on Live Now |
Jun 27, 2010, 05:17 AM | |
Lorenzo really has his stuff together..... He's going to be a hard guy to beat.... I read an article a while back from Lorenzo's suspension man...(don't recall his name) he said Jorge is without doubt the most tenacious rider he has worked with... and he's worked with all the current fast guys in motogp...including Rossi... The mechanic said that when they have done all they can to dial out the problems with the bike and still haven't been able to give Lorenzo what he wants... He then changes his riding style get the most out of the problem area of the track... Most riders complain they can't do this or that...and that becomes their limit... Lorenzo just makes it work !!!
I wonder if he will stay with Yamaha next season ? |
Jun 28, 2010, 01:22 PM | |
Joined Nov 2009
1,409 Posts
Rumours reported by the BBC trackside is they have offered Lorenzo an $8 million deal to stay and Rossi $9 million, Ducati have been rumoured to have offered Rossi $15 million with an opportunity to transfer to Formula 1 in 2012. I don't think that would be Rossi's best bet, he has far more rally car experience and would have a longer career in WRC if he switched to four wheels.
Lorenzo I think might be setting his own prices later this year, he certainly looks a strong bet to wrap up the title now. |
Jun 29, 2010, 07:15 AM | ||
how could that have got past the rookie rule ? And given how frequently he chucks the R1 down the road, it would be a brave man to give him the fastest bike on the planet to play with.... |
Jun 29, 2010, 03:22 PM | ||
On that note, poor Roger Hayden he's always so far in the back of the pack in FIM superbikes.That i constantly forget he's even racing.... J Desalvo the samething man it must suck for those guys.To go from once known heroes to zeroes. |
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text: Intro to sample collection, slide preparation and interpretation of cytology samples from tissue masses (Proceedings) Aug 01, 2010 By A. Rick Alleman, DVM, PhD, DABVP, DACVP CVC IN KANSAS CITY PROCEEDINGS 123456Next Aspiration of a Mass 1. Hold the mass firmly with one hand. 2. Insert the needle, with attached syringe, into the mass. (** Note: For small masses a more precise collection can be accomplished by using a needle without an attached syringe**) 3. Pull back the plunger and hold to apply and maintain slight negative pressure. 4. The needle is then redirected in the mass several times while maintaining a negative pressure in the syringe. 5. Once material appears in the hub of the needle, the plunger is released and the needle can then be removed from the mass. 6. Disconnect the needle from the syringe and pull the plunger back. 7. Re-attach the needle to the syringe and depress the plunger to expel the aspirated material onto a clean glass slide. 8. A second glass slide is gently placed over the aspirated material and the material is allowed to diffuse out to form a thin layer between the two slides. 9. The two slides are gently slid apart forming a monolayer of aspirated cells. 10. The material is then allowed to air-dry prior to staining. 123456Next Hot topics on dvm360Veterinarians: Your clients are going to Google with these cat questions dvm360.com - Feb 24, 2015Vetcetera: The complex topic of canine fear-related aggression dvm360.com - Dec 07, 2014Reality TV and the veterinarian: Discussing mainstream dog training advice with clients VETERINARY MEDICINE - Dec 07, 2014Blog: Election results pose obstacles for veterinary prescription law DVM360 MAGAZINE - Nov 10, 20147 steps to a better relationship between veterinarians and rescue groups VETERINARY ECONOMICS - Nov 01, 2014