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So what's different about saltwater versus freshwater? Saltwater fish are more sensitive to changes in their environment. We here, at Fishworld & Exotics, have many years of combined experience with freshwater / saltwater to assist you in any questions you may have. We also offer a vast library of books to help you in your decisions or questions. All of our saltwater fish are imported from Japan/Singapore.
The critical parameters of a saltwater tank are pH, nitrate, salinity, and temperature. During the cycling process, ammonia and nitrite can also be a problem. These elements are not different from those of a freshwater tank, but the degree to which they may stray is vastly different.
The pH of a marine tank is one of the most important parameters. Marine fish and invertebrates are especially sensitive to rapid changes in their pH, so keeping pH fluctuations within 0.2 each day is very critical. All marine creatures like a pH near 8.2, ranging from 8.0 to 8.4. The pH should never drop below 8.0.
The next critical parameter is nitrates. Saltwater fish are more tolerant of higher nitrates than invertebrates (in general), but still like nitrates lower than 20ppm, with less than 5ppm being required for most invertebrates. Reef keepers tend to quote anything higher than 0.5ppm as unacceptable, but this is an unrealistic goal for fish-only or minimal invertebrate tanks.
The next parameter of concern is salinity, or specific gravity. Loosely (very loosely), specific gravity is the amount of salt in the water. Many aquarists treat specific gravity and salinity as one and the same, but technically speaking, they are not. Specific gravity is temperature dependent and salinity is not. Most hydrometers (hydrometers measure specific gravity) are calibrated to read the correct specific gravity at 59F. Since this is a little low for most tanks, hobbyist grade hydrometers are usually temperature corrected to read the correct specific gravity at or around 77F (25C).
In any case, most creatures will acclimate to almost any specific gravity (within reason), so long as it does not vary widely. The specific gravity of a saltwater tank should be around 1.022. It's worth noting that the salinity of natural sea water varies according to location (ocean, to lagoons, to estuaries), ranging anywhere from 1.020 to 1.030. So different fish might be native to different salinities, and may need some time to acclimate to a different salinity.
Finally, the temperature of a saltwater tank is basically the same as a freshwater tank. Anywhere between 75F to 80F (24C - 27C), with 77F (25C) being a good midpoint. Wild temperature variations increase fish stress and invariably lead to disease, so a good heater (or chiller) is a must. As an aside, submersible heaters tend to be preferred over hang on the back kinds. Also, they seem to be somewhat more reliable than the less expensive `clip-on' kind.
Other parameters worth keeping an eye on are alkalinity and calcium. The alkalinity of a saltwater tank is really critical for long term success. Without a decent alkalinity reading, the pH of the tank will drop over time and endanger the lives of your pets. The alkalinity of a saltwater tank should be around 2.5 to 3.5 meq/l.
Calcium is more of a reef keeper's issue than a fish-only tank. However, once you advance and wish to keep invertebrates, monitoring calcium levels becomes a must. Without calcium, and other trace elements, invertebrates can not properly form their exoskeletons and will not survive. Calcium levels should be 400 to 450 ppm Ca++.
Some of the more easier to keep invertebrates, such as shrimps, also need regular supplements of iodine and other trace elements. Most foods will supply the necessary amounts of these elements. However, if you are using a protein skimmer, these elements will be stripped from the water and need to be replaced manually.
The Basic Components
The components needed to run a successful saltwater tank depends a lot on who you talk to. We here at Fish World have very knowledgeable people here to assist you in your setup and purchase of saltwater fish. They all have many years of knowledge. For example, many people advocate using under gravel filters for biological filtration. A saltwater tank running an under gravel filter (UGF) with minimal circulation will be much more work than a than a system running a wet/dry filter and a couple of powerheads. Wet/Dry filters tend to require less maintenance, as UGF's tend to become clogged over time.
Not to get too buried in details, the basic components of a saltwater tank are the tank, decorations, filtration (including protein skimming), lighting, water, and test kits.
One of the most important decisions in starting a saltwater aquarium will be the size of the tank. The basic rule of thumb is the bigger the better. A larger tank will be easier to control and gives a bit more leeway for mistakes (which are inevitable). The smallest tank for beginners should be no less than 20 gallons, with 55 gallons being even better. For someone versed in fish keeping (i.e., converting from fresh to saltwater), a 10 or 15 gallon tank will work, but is not suggested. In general, fish like long, wide tanks. The more surface area a tank has, the better the gas exchange will be and the happier the fish will be.
Before finalizing on a tank size, remember that fish densities are much lower for saltwater than freshwater. That is, you can not put as many fish in a saltwater tank as you can in a freshwater tank. Putting more than 2 saltwater fish in 10 gallon tank is asking for trouble. A general rule of thumb is 4" of small-to-medium fish per 10 gallons, or 2" of larger/fast growing fish per 10 gallons. This is just a rough estimate of the number of fish. There is no exact number since finding the stocking density has to take into account the filtration, maintenance, feeding schedule, etc..
Beyond the number of fish you wish to keep, the tank's size will also affect your filtration and lighting choices, both in cost and design. Tanks which are 48 inches long are usually cheaper to light because the lamps are more readily available. However, the larger the tank, the more light you will need to provide your inhabitants. Moreover, a larger tank needs efficient filtration to keep the system thriving. A good size tank is around 55 gallons.
As a note, scrutinize hoods carefully. Many of them are designed for 48" tanks, but require two 24" lamps rather than one 48" lamp. (24" lamps are usually a few more dollars than 48" lamps.)
Once you have decided on a tank, make sure you have a place to put it. The tank should not be in direct sunlight or in an area which is very drafty. Also, make very certain the stand will be capable of holding the weight of the tank, plus substrate, plus rocks, plus water. In total, a 55 gallon tank will probably weigh over 800 pounds.
After selecting the tank, consideration must be given to the substrate. It is best to use a calcareous substrate such as crushed coral or dolomite. These substrates will, at least initially, help buffer the water by adding ions to the buffering system. Generally the substrate should not be so tiny as to get sucked into the filter or pumps, and not so large as to make the tank unsightly. Also, some fish (Gobies) like smaller grades of substrate over larger ones.
Live sand is one substrate which has recently gained a fair amount of publicity. This technology is really in its infancy and is not recommended for beginners.
After you select a substrate, consider the filtration system you plan to use. Your choice in filtration may impact the amount to substrate you need. A UGF or RUGF filter should have about 2-3" of medium grade substrate covering the filter plate. You do not need substrate when you use non-UGF filters (hang-on-the-back power filters), but, most people use between a 1/2" to 1" for such tanks. It's interesting to note that too much substrate in a non-UGF system might lead to dead spots, which can kill your inhabitants (a plug for regular gravel cleaning).
Next, consider the decorations, of which there are a large selection of choices. Dead coral, lava rock, tufa rock, live rock, and many more. Coral pieces are the most popular, but are also some of the most expensive. Lava and tufa rock are inexpensive and may also be stacked to make interesting reef looking tanks. Live rock is one of those buzz words that people like to throw around and one which gets a lot of hype. Live rock is rock taken from a reef system which has been populated by many different organisms.
Many aquarist dedicated to fish-only setups are beginning to discover the benefits of having live rock in their system. Live rock produces a more natural environment for the fish and also aids in nitrification and denitrification. This implies that the live rock is more that just a decoration, it is actually part of the filtration system. Although it is difficult to use live rock as the sole source of filtration in a fish-only setup, it certainly can be used effectively to reduce nitrates. The use of live rock in fish-only setups must be closely monitored though. If nutrient levels in the aquarium are high, the live rock will be the first to demonstrate this fact. Live rock in presence of high nutrient levels will grow unhealthy amounts of hair algae, and in some cases, cyanobacteria (slime algae). To avoid outbreaks of plague algaes, a few simple rules must be followed.
First, you must start will high quality live rock; live rock which is highly encrusted in coralline algae. Avoid live rock which already has hair algae growing on it. Regular additions of calcium may also be needed to keep the coralline algae thriving. Next, you need to keep nitrate levels low (~10ppm) and ensure you have nearly undetectable levels of phosphate (~0.02 ppm). Finally, feed sparingly; decomposing food is one of the main avenues for introducing phosphate/nitrate and contributing to algae problems.
If you plan to add live rock to your system, remember live rock contains living organisms, so they can be killed along with any other organism in your tank. It's a good idea to wait until after the tank is set up before buying live rock. There is no good place to store live rock other than in a circulating tank. Trying to do otherwise will be disastrous and costly. Also, if you are going to put live rock into an established tank, the rock must be cured live rock .
However, there are certain caveats that should be noted. If you decide to use a UGF, reverse flow setups are better. A RUGF will keep nitrates lower by keeping the substrate cleaner and will aid water movement and circulation.
In addition to good filtration, water movement is a must in saltwater aquaria. Without circulation the system will be unstable and usually tends to grow unhealthy amounts of algae and other undesirables. The easiest way to achieve water movement is to have a powerhead in the tank for circulation. One must be careful though, a medium sized powerhead in a small tank will easily make a tornado- like environment and cause problems for small or slow moving creatures.
One of the best possible filtration systems for a fish-only marine tank is a wet/dry filter. Many people advocate wet/dry filters for marine tanks stating they are the only acceptable solution. This is simply not true. Any one of the popular filtration systems may be used for a marine tank. The key to success is providing adequate biological filtration without trapping excess detritus. Trapping detritus produces nitrates and inevitably leads to problem algae outbreaks. Which ever filtration system you choose, be sure to rinse the mechanical filtration media at least once a week. Ideally you should rinse the media in old saltwater from the tank to minimize the disruption of any nitrifying bacteria growing on the media.
A part of filtration which most recently has gained wide spread acceptance is protein skimming, or foam fractionation. Protein skimmers are a must for a decently stocked saltwater tank as they strip dissolved organic particles from the water before they can be converted to nitrates.
There are simply too many models and manufacturers to discuss all of them, but the two basic designs are air-driven and venturi. Air-driven protein skimmers use a wooden or glass airstone to produce bubbles in a column of water. Venturi skimmers use a venturi valve to inject bubbles into the water column. Both air-driven and venturi have co-current and counter-current designs, with counter-current protein skimmers being far superior to co-current models.
In deciding on a protein skimmer, there are some basic things to consider. Air-driven skimmers use airstones which must be replaced on a regular basis (usually every month or so). Additionally, they usually require more maintenance than venturi skimmers to maintain proper skimming. Venturi skimmers on the other hand require very powerful pumps to achieve effective protein skimming. They are usually more expensive than air-driven skimmers as well. Also, any skimmer smaller than 24" should be avoided for heavily loaded tanks.
Whichever type of skimmer you buy, the final cost of the skimmer must not overlook the need for an external water pump and potentially an air pump.
With the setup nearly complete, you need to consider your near-term and far-term lighting requirements. If you plan on having a fish-only tank forever, then you only need a single full spectrum bulb. However, if you plan to advance in your hobby and keep more sensitive animals such as anemones, you must carefully select your lighting (and filtration as well). Anemones require very strong, full spectrum lighting, supplemented with actinic blue. The general rule of thumb is a minimum of 3-4 watts per gallon, with the higher values for deeper tanks (greater than 18-24 inches). The standard hood will not provide enough light to keep anemones alive (or other light-loving invertebrates for that matter).
For a beginning aquarist, fluorescent lighting is probably the best. Metal halide lighting is really for reef keeping and heavily planted freshwater tanks.
One critical item in a saltwater tank that doesn't really fit into any of the above topics is that which sets it apart - the marine salt. There are many different brands of salt on the market, all of them being basically the same. The only difference among them is whether or not they have nitrates and phosphates. Both of these are very bad for aquaria, so salts which have them must be avoided. Good salts include Instant Ocean , Reef Crystals, and Coralife. As a note, standard rock salt can not be used as a substitute for marine salt mixes. Rock salt does not contain the important elements that marine creatures need to survive.
To measure the specific gravity of your saltwater you will need a hydrometer. There are two basic types of hydrometers available to hobbyist, the floating kind which usually measures temperature as well, and the plastic kind with a floating arm. It's basically a toss up as to which one to get, but the plastic kind has a larger scale and is easier to read.
The final component needed to run a successful saltwater aquarium is test kits. In order of importance, they are pH, nitrate, phosphate, alkalinity, nitrite, ammonia and Calcium (for reef tanks, the calcium test kit is more important than nitrite and ammonia). A good pH test kit is critical, and an electronic pH monitor is even better. Ammonia and nitrite tests are only needed occasionally after cycling. A nitrate test kit is a good overall test for water quality after the tank becomes established. You should perform a pH test once a week and a nitrate test every two weeks. The other kits are not necessary, but may be needed to solve particular problems or after you advance to more delicate creatures.
Setting Up
The following section briefly explains what you need to do to initially setup your tank.
The first thing you need to do is to place the stand in it's final position. Make sure the stand is level in all direction. Next, place a piece of Styrofoam or rubber on the top of stand where the tank will sit. This eliminates small gaps between the stand and tank reducing pressure points which might cause the tank to crack after being filled. After the stand is positioned, place the tank on the stand. Make sure the tank is level in all directions. Note, a tank that is not level has a great chance of cracking after it is filled.
Where ever you place the tank now is most likely where it will remain for its lifetime. You should never move a tank that has water in it since this is a sure way to crack it.
Once the tank is placed, install the filtration. If it is an UGF, then place the filter plate(s) on the bottom of the tank. If it is a wet/dry, then connect the prefilter and all the hoses.
Prior to adding the substrate, rinse it with plain water until the water runs clear, and then add it to the tank. On top of the substrate arrange the decorations. Now the saltwater may be added. The easiest way to add water to a tank is to place a plate on the substrate and pour the water onto the plate.
When initially setting up your tank it is okay to fill the tank with dechlorinated water and then add the salt mix. However, subsequent water changes need to be premixed. Pre-mixing saltwater is done for two reasons, it gives time for the salt to thoroughly dissolve and also allows the water parameters to stabilize. Adding 10 gallons of freshwater and then an appropriate amount of salt to an established tank is a big mistake (and an excellent way to kill your inhabitants).
One note on making saltwater. The source water you use for mixing is extremely important to the overall success and health of the system.
When all the water is in place, start up the filter system and check for any leaks (of both water and air). Let the tank sit for a day or so to clarify (with the filtration running). Now you can add fish.
How many fish you add for the cycling process depends on the size of the tank and the cycling method you choose. You can cycle a tank without any fish at all. In this case, you add ammonium chloride to simulate fish waste and an initial source of nitrifying bacteria. It is best to get a bacteria culture from an established saltwater tank. This can be in the form of some substrate, old filter media, or some macroalgae. Live rocks are also an excellent source of nitrifying bacteria.
If you choose to cycle your tank using fish, which is infinitely more interesting than a tank full of circulating water, the number of fish needed depends on the size of the tank. In any case, two fish are preferable to one. If one fish dies, you will still have one to finish the cycling. Of course the second fish may pass on too. If all the fish die, then you have to remove all the contaminants from the tank and introduce more organisms (read this as start all over).
Cycling doesn't have to be limited to fish though. Crabs and mollusks can also be used. However, since these organisms don't produce much waste, it will take longer to cycle the tank.
The best beginner fish for a marine tank are damsels. These fish are very hardy, being able to withstand worse water conditions than most other marine fish, they are not picky eaters, and they are fairly inexpensive. The down-side is that they are fairly aggressive. One or two will co-exist in a tank. There will be a lot of fighting if you put more in. It is best to use damsels to break in a new tank. If you are then going to add other aggressive fish, you can keep the damsels. If you want to keep shy or delicate fish, you should take the damsels back to the pet store once you and your tank are ready for more fish.
Some damsels, such as the blue damsel and yellow tailed damsels, are not as aggressive as others, such as the three striped and domino damsels. In any case, damsels are certainly the best fish to start with.
Some people like to break in a tank with mollies which have been acclimated to salt water. This gives you the benefit of starting with inexpensive fish and get used to maintaining salinity and pH on not-so-sensitive fish. Although safer, you don't achieve much marine experience this way. Mollies are captive raised and bred.
If you buy mollies for your saltwater tank, you can acclimate them by dripping saltwater into the bag over a period of 6-8 hours, removing some water when the bag gets too full. Slowly increasing the salinity gives the mollies time to get used to their new environment. You can keep the mollies in the tank after it cycles, but any aggressive fish with continually harass the passive mollies.
Clownfish are related to damsels, and are fairly hardy. However, they are more difficult to acclimate to a new tank. Clowns, in general, are very territorial, but are not otherwise aggressive except to other clowns. They will do fine without an anemone, which is good since anemones are much more difficult to keep. Anemones require very clean water and high quality lighting. Also, each species of clown likes particular species of anemones.
These small fish are somewhat hardy and are unlikely to cause trouble for the other fish in your tank. Some of them show a lot of personality, though they will get lost in a large tank. Many of these fish are excellent additions to a tank to help control algae. However, some feed by sifting through the substrate and will be very hard to keep fed in a fish-only tank.
Tangs (Surgeonfish)
Tangs are fairly hardy, though they are very susceptible to marine ich. Being algae eaters, they are useful to introduce when your tank starts growing algae. They must be fed leafy greens if there is no suitable algae growing in the tank (green algae). Many different tangs are commonly seen for reasonable prices.
If you are setting up a tank for large aggressive fish, you can start with triggers and/or lionfish, as they are hardy. However, mistakes with them can be very costly, so you may want to practice on less expensive and easier fish. Also, carnivorous fish such as triggers and lions should be fed plenty of shell fish and other marine life. Specifically, many people feed lions feeder goldfish. This is really a bad practice because goldfish are freshwater fish and do not provide the same nutrition that a saltwater fish would. Specifically, feeding saltwater fish freshwater food can cause premature liver failure and the early demise of your fish.
Other saltwater fish which can be attempted once you get good at controlling the fish's environment are hawkfishes, grammas, dottybacks, basslets, and wrasses. Some are more difficult to keep than others, but not nearly as difficult as angels and butterflies.
Many people believe that invertebrates are only for mini or micro-reef tanks. Not so. There are quite a few invertebrates that do well in non-reef tanks. Below is a brief summary of the more hardy invertebrates available to aquarists.
There are many different shrimps available on the market, with most of them being perfectly suitable for a lightly loaded saltwater tank. In fact, some shrimps are more suitable for fish and invertebrate tanks than for a reef tank since they like to eat corals.
Some of the more popular shrimps are Cleaner shrimp , Blood shrimp, Candycane or Peppermint shrimp, and Coral Banded shrimp. The cleaner shrimp is denoted by a white on red stripe down the middle of its back. They are fairly inexpensive and easy to keep. They should, however, be kept in small groups (3-4), as this makes them more social and more likely to come out often. The Blood shrimp is intensely red with some white spots. It is a very striking animal, but usually commands a high price. The Coral Banded shrimp is very popular with reef keepers, but must be watched around small fish. This shrimp has been known to eat small fish without thinking twice.
Most shrimps are scavengers and don't necessarily need to be fed overtly (they usually eat food dropped by fish). If your fish your fish consume most of the food before it makes it to the bottom of the tank, then some extra food should be given to the shrimps after the fishes have been fed, or at night (most shrimps are nocturnal). Shrimps readily accept most frozen foods and dried foods (brine shrimp, flake food, etc.).
There are many different type of crabs, but the most commonly seen varieties are anemone crabs, arrow
crabs , and hermit crabs. Anemone crabs live in anemones, as do clownfish, and vary greatly in color and shape. They are usually acquired indirectly by buying an anemone, but are some times sold separately. These crabs should have a host anemone to feel comfortable. Arrow crabs are very interesting animals which should be kept one to a tank, as they will continually fight. Also, Arrow crabs should not be kept with Coral Banded Shrimps as they will fight as well. Hermit crabs are also interesting, and vary in color and size. Most are passive, but some will eat corals and other invertebrates.
Crabs are generally omnivorous and readily accept the same foods as your fish. Like shrimp, crabs can only eat food which has made it to the bottom of the tank. Thus, ensure some food is in reach of your crabs.
Sea Urchins and Starfishes
Most sea urchins and Starfishes are suitable for beginners who have a few months experience. Once again they vary greatly in size, shape, and color. Beware, some sea urchins are poisonous. Most sea urchins and starfish feed on detritus and algae, and small particles of food that have fallen within their reach.
They all require very strong lighting and excellent water conditions. Unless you are willing to invest a few extra $$ in proper lighting, do not try to keep an anemone.
Some Notes on Invertebrates
Invertebrates are very sensitive to water quality. Signs of stress due to poor water quality will usually be exhibited first by invertebrates. Therefore, shrimps, anemones and other invertebrates should never be used to cycle a tank. Moreover, you should never add an invertebrate to a diseased tank or a tank which does not have stable water quality parameters (pH, temperature, etc.).
Other points to note. Shrimps need iodine to properly molt, as well as calcium . If you do not change water regularly (which you should), or if you do not feed live or frozen food frequently, then you may need to supplement your water with iodine. Without proper levels of iodine, shrimps will not molt properly and will most likely die. Also, copper kills invertebrates at much lower concentrations than fish. If you have ever used copper in your tank, DO NOT put invertebrates into the tank. You will never be able to adequately remove all the copper such that you can keep invertebrates alive and happy. Finally, crabs usually outgrow their shell sooner or later. Therefore, you will need to provide a new larger shell (they usually try a few out before sticking with one, so you will probably need at least a couple).
Selecting Saltwater Fish For Your Tank
Since saltwater fish are usually more expensive than freshwater fish, you have a great stake in getting them home alive and keeping them alive for the long term.
Once you decide on a particular fish, don't be afraid to ask the store to hold it for you. A good store will always hold a fish for you (don't patronize stores that won't!). Also, ask to see the fish eat. If the fish is healthy and eating, then it most likely is a good specimen. Finally, check the fish closely for spots, irregular patches, missing scales, and wounds. Torn fins will usually heal and are not much of a problem.
Bringing the Fish Home
Once you get the fish home you should set the bag in the destination tank, thus allowing the temperature to equalize. After about a half hour or so, add a 1/4 cup of tank water to the bag. Repeat this process once every 15 minutes for an hour, removing any water if the bag gets too full. Any water you remove from the bag should be disposed of. It will most likely contain parasites and other bad things.
After you have the fish acclimated to your tank's water chemistry, there are a couple of things you can do. You can place the fish directly into the main tank and hope for the best, you can give the fish a freshwater dip and then place it into the tank, or you could place the fish into a quarantine tank.
The best scenario is to give the fish a freshwater dip and place it into a quarantine tank. Keep the fish in the quarantine tank for 2 weeks and watch for signs of disease. If the fish gets sick, you can medicate the quarantine tank without affecting the chemistry of the main tank. If you are going to quarantine the fish, you should acclimate the fish to the quarantine tank's chemistry, not the main tank.
If you don't use a quarantine tank, then it is a very good idea to give the fish a freshwater bath before placing it into your main tank. The freshwater bath will cause any parasites attached onto the fish to let go and remain in the freshwater (to die a lonely death). Otherwise, parasites left to their own will reproduce very rapidly in captivity and usually infect all the fish in the tank.
To give a marine fish a freshwater dip, prepare a container of dechlorinated freshwater with a similar chemistry of the destination tank. That is, make sure the pH and temperature are as close as possible to the destination tank (this is critical!) . Remove the fish from the bag and place the fish into the container for 3 to 5 minutes. Watch the fish closely for signs of stress. If the fish stops moving or begins to float, remove it immediately and place it in the destination tank (either the main or quarantine tank).
In placing the fish into the freshwater bath, never pour the fish into the container. Use a tupperware container or a net to capture the fish and place it into the dip. Avoid the release /mixture of the store water with your tank, if at all possible.
If you put the fish into the main tank and it comes down with an illness, it should be removed to a quarantine tank immediately. Do not risk spreading the illness to the other fish in the tank (although it may already be too late).
Saltwater Maintenance
The cycling process will undoubtedly be the most tense time for you and your new tank. So below is a guide to the first few days and months of your tank.
Over the course of the first 4 to 6 weeks your tank will demonstrate the typical cycling process.
During this critical time, you should carefully watch the ammonia and nitrites in the tank. If the fish look stressed (darting around the tank, gasping for air, or not moving at all), a partial water change might be in order. If the fish look really bad, they may have to be moved to another tank or storage location until the toxicity of the tank is reduced. You should always keep salt mix and dechlorinated water on hand for impromptu water changes.
Along with monitoring ammonia and nitrites, you should keep a careful eye on the pH (you should always watch the pH, not just during the cycling process). The pH will tend to fall over time and needs to raised. The easiest way to raise the pH is through additions of sodium bicarbonate (i.e., baking soda). Mix a tablespoon or so of baking soda in a cup of dechlorinated water and slowly add it to the tank. Slowly means over the course of an hour or two. Baking soda will cause a short term drop in the pH, but will bring the pH to 8.2 over time.
As time marches on, water will evaporate from the tank and need to be replenished. The water that evaporates is freshwater and needs to be replaced with freshwater. You should never use saltwater for makeup water (unless you want to increase the salinity of the tank).
As the tank matures, algae will start to grow (usually around week 2 or 3). Typically brown algae, otherwise known as diatoms, will be the first algae that shows up in the tank. Brown algae will usually cover everything in the tank and need to be cleaned every week or so. With time green algae should overtake the diatoms and the brown algae will disappear all together. If it doesn't, there might not be enough light for the green algae to out-compete the diatoms.
After the tank completes cycling, it will be time for your first major water change. Although the amount of water you change is really up to you, it should be a significant portion of the water. Something like 40 to 50%, with 100% of the water not being uncommon. When changing the water, the gravel should also be cleaned. There are many commercially available gravel cleaners and we have a very good selection, here at Fish World.
The chemistry of the change water should be as close to the tank's water as possible. The pH should be within 0.2 and the temperature should be within 1-2 degrees. It is better to have the change water warmer than cooler (imagine the shock of a cold shower and you will know how your fish will react to cooler change water).
After the first water change you should establish a regular maintenance schedule. Something like monthly water changes, weekly algae scrapings, and bi-weekly feedings are normal.
A note on nutrition. Saltwater fish need varied diets. Constantly feeding your fish flake food may provide it with all the necessary vitamins and minerals, but this may ultimately cause a nutrition deficiency of sorts. Alternating between cut up shrimp and clam, flake food and frozen/live brine shrimp makes a good combination. Herbivorous fish, like Yellow Tangs, also like romaine lettuce or Nori (an algae regularly sold at oriental markets) on a regular basis.
Converting to Saltwater
One of the most frequently asked questions in the news groups is how to convert from freshwater to saltwater. What equipment needs to replaced, what needs to purchased, etc..
Most equipment used in freshwater can be used in a saltwater system, with a few exceptions. You should start by replacing your gravel with some sort of calcerous material. Examples include crushed coral, dolomite and argonite. Using these types of substrate tend to help buffer the water and produce a more stable environment. Next, you need to check all your equipment for anything metal. Saltwater will rust anything except the highest grade stainless steel. There are stainless steels on the market which will rust when exposed to saltwater. Needless to say, you need to replace or get rid of anything made of metal.
The filtration system used in your freshwater system will usually be adequate for a saltwater system. However, you can use this opportunity to upgrade or change filtration mechanisms. Also, which ever type of filtration system you are using, you should add some sort of extra water circulation to the tank. Saltwater has a lower dissolved oxygen content than freshwater, so you need to keep the water in the tank moving. Actually, it needs to do more than move. You need to disrupt the surface of the water to maximize oxygen transfer with the atmosphere.
The lighting you used for you freshwater system should also work for a fish-only saltwater tank. However, if you want to keep invertebrates, you will need to upgrade (more that just your lighting).
One part of a freshwater system that needs to be replaced is the food. Marine fish need varied diets. You need to supply your fish with a combination of fresh, frozen and live food. Flake food, although adequate, should not be the major portion of your fish's diet.
Finally, when you are ready to make the switch to saltwater, you really should replace all the water in your system. It is best to start with nitrate free water to minimize the potential for algae problems. Also, many people think that adding salt to a cycled freshwater tank will yield a cycled saltwater tank. Experience have shown this is not true. Saltwater nitrifying bacteria are different than freshwater nitrifying bacteria, so they must be cultured from scratch. As a note, nitrifying bacteria seem to be pH and temperature sensitive. So moving some gravel from a warm saltwater tank (~85F/24C) to a temperate saltwater tank (72F/21C) will shock the bacteria enough to nullify any advantage from using the gravel (e.g., to shorten the cycle time).
Source water for saltwater tanks is also very important. Although the water authority says that tap water is fit for human consumption, it may not be fit for your fish. Tap water typically contains chlorine and chloramine, which will kill your fish. Although these will have an immediate effect on your fish, there are usually other contaminates in tap water which need time to affect the tank. In particular, phosphates will cause massive growths of hair algae and potentially cyanobacteria outbreaks (red slime algae). Without good quality source water, your tank will not be the continuous joy you hoped it would be.
The best water purifiers on the market are reverse osmosis units. These, coupled with de-ionizing resins, produce water which is 98% pure. If the price of a RO/DI combination is too much, then you can always use distilled water (not spring water). However, distilled water may have been stored in copper containers which will kill invertebrates.
Before you start your saltwater tank, come visit our store. We here at Fish World have knowledgeable staff and exhibit a general concern about the care of the fish & animals. We have a large assortment of saltwater/freshwater tanks in stock, at all times, as well as beautiful stands.
The last point about keeping saltwater fish is to read, read, read. Some of the best are The Marine Aquarium Handbook by Martin Moe, The Book of the Marine Aquarium distributed by Tetra Press, and The Marine Aquarium Reference also by Martin Moe. Happy fish keeping.
A Successful Saltwater Tank Pricing Guide:
Item Price
55 gallon Aquarium


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The Institute on Medicine as a Profession (IMAP) aims to make professionalism a field and a force. It promotes this mission through research and policy initiatives. Four key values underlie medical professionalism. Physicians and the health care system must be committed to: altruism and promotion of patients' best interests; effective physician self-regulation; maintenance of technical competence; and physician civic engagement to promote patient and societal well-being. Four key values underlie our vision of medical professionalism:
To ensure that these values will remain at the heart of the medical profession, IMAP is engaged in the following programs and initiatives:
The Challenge of Physician-Industry Relationships
Exploring the relationship of physicians to the health care industry remains a core IMAP activity. Web resources resulting from this activity include our Conflict of Interest Policy Database, our Online Curriculum and Best Practices Toolkits for managing conflicts of interest.
Survey on Medical Professionalism
IMAP has funded a series of surveys by the Mongan Institute for Health Policy (Harvard) to measure physicians' attitudes and practices.
Making Evidence-Based Medicine Matter
IMAP, with a grant from the Selz Foundation, is addressing the issue of stewardship of health care resources from the perspective of the
Physician Advocacy Program
IMAP seeks to make advocacy a core value of the medical profession by developing a cadre of advocates with expertise in achieving policy change at the local, state, and national level.
Interrogation/Torture and National Security
IMAP convened a conference to explore what physicians had done and not done about the maltreatment of detainees in security detention facilities and to consider strategies for prevent future abuses.
China-US Center on Medical Professionalism
The China-US Center supports research, conducts faculty and student seminars, and works to
make the concept of professionalism relevant to medical practice in
IMAPNY is proudly powered by WordPress

subset: commoncrawl


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The adorably-pastel-shirted Benham brothers, sons of anti-abortion extremist Flip Benham, went on CNN to clarify that they truly love the homosexual and the Muslim. What they hate, however, is the homosexual and Muslim "agenda."
The Benham boys, David and Jason, are smarting from the cancellation of their new home-flipping show on HGTV, after word leaked out of the Benham's anti-gay, anti-abortion, and anti-Muslim activism, as first reported by RightWingWatch.
David Benham even compared the fight against gay marriage to the fight against Nazi Germany. (Don't recall that one in the Bible.) And then invoked the Leviticus passage that calls for gays to be put to death.
As is always the case with these folks of late, they're now claiming that they're the real victims. Because their victims stepped up and got to them first.
The Benham's line, which is typically self-deluded, is that 85% of America is Christian, so how come all these gays and Muslims and pro-choicers keep getting their way?
Um, because 85% of America isn't YOUR kind of Christian. This is a common fallacy on the far-right. They think they speak for God, and all Christianity, without realizing that they're relative newcomers to the whole Christian game, and that lots of faiths, Christian and otherwise, don't share their hatred of gays and Muslims, and don't get terribly involved in the whole abortion debate.
The Benhams also pulled the victim card out, because it's a terrible thing for freedom when a minority gets in the way of you denying them their freedom. If this keeps up, everyone is going to want to be free.
Though perhaps my favorite part was when the Benham boys said they don't hate gays, they're against EVERYONE having premarital sex. Of course, what the BB's didn't bother mentioning is that they're also against gays get married (one assumes), so in fact their position is against gays having sex, ever.
As for the "we love homosexuals" and Muslims, but hate their "agenda" line, I guess that must work for the far-right hate crowd, but I wonder if it truly resonates with the political middle. I wasn't aware there was a gay agenda, or a Muslim agenda for that matter. There clearly is a Benham agenda, however, and it really doesn't complement HGTV's audience of suburban moms and gay men, who are far more comfortable with tolerance than they are the venom of two wolves in rather-gay clothing.
But hope springs eternal, I'm sure there's someone left the boys can try to oppress.


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The men's department is no longer the sleepy retreat of specialty stores.
"Menswear is having a moment; they are interested and engaged," said Eric Jennings, vice president and fashion director for men's at Saks Fifth Avenue. "It's showing in the business; men's has been outperforming women's in many cases."
Saks just expanded its men's offerings, especially in a category Jennings calls "upper contemporary," adding brands such as Kenzo (designed by the founders of Opening Ceremony), Ami and Carven. Jennings thanks the recession, in large part, for raising men's game: "If they were going to keep their job, let alone get a job, they were forced to take their appearance more seriously."
Street-style blogs such as The Sartorialist, Tucked Style and Hypebeast also have inspired more experimentation.
"Men could see how real guys are dressing and how good they look," he said.
For those whose wardrobe could use a kick in the pants, Jennings pointed to some strategies and easy spring updates.
Start with the feet. "Sneakers right now are aggressively fashionable," he said, but slip-on skate shoes "are the big trend this spring" and don't require a major investment. (Rivieras are $75-$115.)
Vanishing socks. "A year ago with men's socks there was no such thing as too aggressive with color and pattern," Jennings said. "I'm seeing that trend slow down." Peds, the little footies that are invisible under a shoe, are selling by the barrel, he said, in line with the trend of baring ankles. "We carry good ones with the nonslip bottom so they don't slide down into your shoe, like Marcoliani."
Add a print button-down shirt. Jennings urges a spirit of adventure with what he variously calls a "restaurant shirt," "event top" or "party shirt"; he's not talking sprawling palm fronds here but rather small-scale florals or geometric microprints. Gingham is an entry point, and abundant. Graduate to tiny polka dots or florals.
Let 'em see your sweats. "Sweatshirts are big for spring and even bigger for fall," Jennings said, citing Riccardo Tisci's iconic graphic versions for Givenchy. There are options at all price points. "Sweatpants, too, with the banded bottom, are everywhere."
If you already have a navy jacket (it's a workhorse), consider adding a slightly lighter, aquatic blue, like one from Sand ($595). For bonus points, wear it with grass green. "This season we're seeing those two colors together," Jennings said.
Think beyond the woven silk tie. Jennings was wearing a silk knit forest-green tie from Charvet ($180) with his tan corduroy suit. "I've been such a fan of this type of tie because we're seeing more pattern and print in shirts, and this goes with all of them." Bow ties are another alternative. "All the young guys are wearing them."
A lapel pin is the new pocket square. But both are easy tie substitutes or enhancements with a jacket, even with jeans. "Five years ago we barely had pocket squares. Now it's become a great business for us. It's just a little way to say 'I give a damn,'" Jennings said.


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Chromis punctipinnis
The Blacksmith is a small, thick-bodied fish common to the Eastern Pacific, especially off the coast of California. Blacksmiths can be identified by their blue-black bodies with black dots that run toward the forked tail. Younger Blacksmiths are usually blue-black with a light brown or orange-colored tail. The Blacksmith is a reef fish that will often inhabit rocky channels or kelp forests. These areas provide both shelter and abundant food for communities of interconnected species. Many of these animals will form symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationships. Blacksmiths will often be seen in the same areas as the brightly-colored Señoritas. When Blacksmiths turn their bodies upwards, the Señoritas will groom them by nibbling away parasites. These types of cleaning behaviors are common to reef fish all over the world.
During the day, Blacksmiths will form into large schools to feed on zooplankton in the open ocean. After dark, however, they will return to the safety of the reef or kelp forest, often hiding on ledges or in caves to avoid detection by predators. Their natural predators include larger fish, seals, sea lions and various birds.
Blacksmiths are found along rocky reefs, steep embankments, and in kelp forests. They can be found at as far north as Monterey Bay, California, and as far south as Baja California, Mexico.
Common. Although they are sometimes eaten by people, their small size makes them an undesirable sport fish.


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9/13-9/23 WES PTA Go, Play, Save Fundraiser
9/20 WES PTA General Membership Meeting 9:15am in the Media Center
9/20 WES PTA Spirit Night at YoLo 4:00pm-10:00pm
9/21 Media Center Volunteer Breakfast
9/23 Community Helper Day K/1st Grades
9/30 Early Release Day 1:15pm Dismissal
10/5 Walk to School Day
10/6 Family Picnic Night 5:30-7:00PM
Media SuperstarsMEDIA SUPERSTAR VOLUNTEERS
My name is Ms. Whalen and I am the new Media Specialist at Weatherstone Elementary. I would love to have some parent help in the following tasks; check in of books, check out of books, and reshelving books. This will allow me to work more with all classes and teach media lessons, which is what I do best.
Come to a volunteer breakfast on September 21st at 9:30am in the Media Center to learn how check in, check out, and reshelve books. Look forward to seeing you all there.
More information can be found at http://wesmcwhalen.weebly.com.
3rd Annual Weatherstone Family Picnic
Save the date for the 3rd Annual Weatherstone Family Picnic on October 6th from 5:30-7:00pm. This is an informal family fun night where the school community of students, staff, and families come together to have fun. More information to come in the next few weeks!
Join the WES PTA
The Weatherstone PTA needs you! (And we need the WES PTA!) Please take a few minutes this week to Join the WES PTA. They not only provide significant financial support for our school but they also support us in many other ways. Membership forms were sent home from the school at Meet the Teacher or you can sign up online here on their website.
There will be a General Membership meeting on 9/20 at 9:15am in the Media Center. Please come to learn more about the PTA and what you can do to support our school.
News from the WES PTA
PTA General Meeting
The PTA general meeting is Tuesday, September 20th at 9:15 am in the Media Center.
Buy Reduced Price Tickets to the NC State Fair and Raise Money for WES!
Our school will receive $2 for each adult admission ticket purchased and $1 for each child ticket purchased. Purchase online admission tickets through the special Wake County Public School Etix page. Weatherstone's Code is 598 (enter in Membership field on checkout).
Volunteers Needed!
Community Helper Day on September 23rd
Community Helper Day Volunteers
GoPlaySave Fundraiser Volunteers
Go Play Save Fundraiser Volunteers
GO PLAY SAVE Fundraiser
REMINDER! This is the last week for GO PLAY SAVE! Help support Weatherstone and save money by purchasing your GO PLAY SAVE book this week, or returning the book that was sent home by Friday. Either way students will receive a prize for participation. Using just a few coupons will help pay for the cost of the book. There are also some great prizes for top sellers. You can save up to $20 at Kroger. Get a free Railhawks or Hurricanes ticket! Save money at tons of local restaurants. There are some great deals you won't want to miss out on. If you always forget to take coupons with you, consider getting the mobile app so they will always be with you in your phone! Chapel Hill, Triad and Charlotte books are also available upon request.
We could also use some extra volunteers to help us collect the returned orders and books next week. Just 1 or 2 hours of your time can help us a lot. You can greet the children as they arrive in the morning to collect the envelopes or you can come a little later and help us count the orders. Here is the link for the sign up genius -http://www.signupgenius.com/go/5080a4faea9292-goplay1
You can also find it on the PTA website.
Wednesday October 5, 2015 is National Walk to School Day.
Join thousands of students and their parents around the world as we all walk to school. It is a fun and safe way to get your brain and body ready for a productive day, and you get to skip the carpool line. Walkers and bus riders can all join us on the track for a picture at 9:10am.
Two local companies have given permission to park in their lot and walk the short distance to the school with their parent(s):
White Tiger Taekwondo: 1605 NW Maynard Rd, Cary, NC 27513 (Parade departs at 8:40am from White Tiger to WES Track)
Dean's: 1080 Darrington Dr, Cary, NC 27513 (on Cary Parkway near Panera)
Questions??? Email firstname.lastname@example.com


text:
ENB (English)
LINKAGES Coverage
BNT (Français)
Couverture LINKAGES
Les comptes rendu du BNT
Highlights from
Thursday, 15 April 2004
On Thursday, 15 April,
delegates met throughout the day in informal consultations to continue their
first reading of the Strategy Document, concluding sections on waste
management, coastal and marine resources, freshwater resources, land
resources, energy resources, tourism resources, biodiversity resources,
transport and communication, graduation of SIDS LDCs, and trade:
globalization and trade liberalization. A side event was also held on The Environmental Vulnerability Index
(EVI) was developed in partnership with South
Pacific Applied Geoscience Commission, UNEP, New Zealand, Norway, Ireland,
SIDS and other partners.
Photo: Enele Sopoaga,
Tuvalu, with Jagdish Koonjul,
Chair of AOSIS and Spokesperson for the
G-77/China (Mauritius), during the informal consultations
Jagdish Koonjul,
Chair of AOSIS and Spokesperson for the G-77/China (Mauritius), with Facilitator
Don MacKay (left)
and with Richard Sherman, ENB (right)
Delegates from Norway, the EU and the US
during the informal consultations
Facilitator Don MacKay with Mark Ramsden, New
Delegates from the
G-77/China and the EU consulting during the informals
Richard Sherman, ENB, and John Harding,
International Strategy for Disaster Reduction (left), and Enele Sopoaga and Ian Fry, Tuvalu (right)
Event: Briefing on the Environmental Vulnerability Index--organized
by the South Pacific Applied Geoscience Commission (SOPAC) on behalf
of the Pacific Islands Forum
The Environmental Vulnerability Index
(EVI) was developed in partnership with SOPAC, UNEP, New Zealand,
Norway, Ireland, SIDS and other partners. The initiative is in
response to a call made in the BPOA to develop a composite
vulnerability index that incorporates both ecological fragility and
economic vulnerability to enable SIDS to better understand their
vulnerability and move towards more sustainable development. This
work now forms part of the Pacific WSSD Type II "Initiative to
Develop Capacities in Pacific SIDS to Manage Vulnerability and Build
Resilience to Disasters."
The Global EVI is an indicators-based
method which quantifies the vulnerability of the natural environment
to damage from natural and anthropogenic hazards at national scales.
It seeks to provide support to decision-makers by providing a simple
pragmatic method for identifying actions that could be taken to
increase the environmental resilience of a country. The EVI's focus
is on the environment as life-support for all human welfare and
therefore concentrates on environmental systems as responders. The
logic is that human systems (countries, cultures, economies) are
intimately dependent on the welfare of the natural ecosystems that
act as life-support systems for them. It is therefore of central
importance that we be able to identify and react to any risks to the
welfare of our environment.
For more information, visit
www.sopac.org/Projects/Evi/index.html or email:
firstname.lastname@example.com or
Jagdish Koonjul,
Mauritius, Enele Sopoaga, Tuvalu, and Anwarul
Chowdhury, Secretary-General of the Mauritius International Meeting
. Ursual Kaly (SOPAC)
introduces the Environmental Vulnerability Index
Richard Ryan, Ireland's
Permanent Representative to the UN (left) and Russell Howorth, SOPAC
Barbados Plan of Action
BPOA+5 review
2002 GA resolution calling for the 10-year review
Regional Meeting, Samoa, 4-8 August 2003
Indian Ocean, Mediterranean, and the South China Sea (AIMS) Regional Meeting,
Cape Verde, 1-5 September, 2003
Regional Meeting, Trinidad, 6-10 October 2003
Preparatory Meeting for the 10 Year Review of the BPoA
Strategy Paper for the Further Implementation of the BPOA
of SIDS
ENB coverage of related meetings:
coverage of the 1994 Barbados meeting on the sustainable development of
Small Island Developing States
coverage of the SIDS+5 meeting
ENB coverage of the Inter-Regional Preparatory Meeting for the 10 Year Review
of the BPoA
for the International Meeting to be held in Mauritius, 30 August-3
September, 2004
of the High Representative for the Least Developed Countries, Landlocked
Developing Countries and the Small Island Developing States (OHRLLS)
SIDS page
Division for Sustainable Development SIDS page
SIDS page
To view PDF files, you will need the free Adobe Reader
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free RealPlayer
Any irregularities on this page? Please mail the Digital
Editor | Linkages
home Send e-mail to ENB |
© 2004, IISD. All rights reserved.


text:
Job Details
- Specialization Accountancy
- Industry Consulting
- Job Type Full Time
- Qualification Bachelor's Degree
- Location Lagos
Stay ahead of the curve, be the first to know of any new job opening, current jobs and top jobs in Nigeria today
- Social Media Marketing Training
- Advanced Microsoft Excel Training
- Employability Skills Training April 2018 Edition
- Hr For Non-Hr Manager
- Defensive Drivers Training
Quality And Risk Management - Internal Auditor at KPMG
KPMG Professional Services and KPMG Advisory Services are the KPMG member firm in Nigeria. The partners and people have been operating in Nigeria since 1978, providing multidisciplinary professional services to both local and international organizations within the Nigerian business community. Our vision is to build and sustain our reputation as the best firm to work with by ensuring our people, clients and communities achieve their full potential. At KPMG, we are committed to working with our clients to cut through complexities of the business world– finding solutions and adding value.
Our combination of international and local market knowledge and perspective give us an edge in the professional services industry in Nigeria. This combination enables the Nigerian practice to add real value by developing strategies that give the firm's clients a distinct edge over their competitors.
- A B.Sc degree in any field with a minimum of second class upper division.
- Proficiency in the use of Microsoft office application.
- Ability to coordinate and manage projects as well as multitask in the face of multiple deliverables.
- Ability to perform excellently with minimal supervision.
- Excellent time management and organizational skills
- Excellent written and oral communication skills.
- Must be below 31 years of age as at date of application.
- Qualification as a Certified Internal Auditor from the Institute of Internal Auditors will be an added advantage.
- Minimum of Five (5) year work experience in an internal audit role with a focus on financial and operational risk.
Key Responsibilities:
Identification, understanding and documentation of the Firm's operational processes.
- Documentation and evaluation of the current corporate governance structure in the Central Services Division.
- Understanding the current control environment in the business processes and documentation of same.
- Assessment of the existing controls to determine control failure and improvement requirement in line with best practice.
- Performance of the firm's Risks Assessment and Identification of the risks that threatens achievement of business objectives.
- Documentation of relevant risks and associating them with the key operational processes.
- Establish the Internal Audit charter, procedures and work programs to guide daily activities and regular reviews.
- Develop risk–based annual audit plans detailing the scope, nature and timing of audit activities.
- Develop Standardized Tools and Templates for use in the operations of the Internal Audit function.
- Conduct internal audits to assess the adequacy, effectiveness and efficiency of the established internal controls and procedures.
- Conduct root cause analysis and agreeing recommendations with relevant staff members to make improvements to operations.
- Preparing reports to highlight issues and problems and distributing the reports as required. .
- Conduct ad-hoc investigations and reviews as requested by the Q&RM unit and management.
- Managing a variety of stakeholders and their expectations through regular communications.
- Other Q&RM tasks that may be assigned daily by the team.
Jobs in Nigeria | Latest Jobs in Nigeria | Top Jobs in Nigeria Today | Current Jobs in Nigeria
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(Scottys Biv looking out down the Taipo: Photo Andrew Buglass 2013)
Scottys Biv was Permolat's first maintain-by-community project
with DOC in 2006, and the forerunner of a number of
others in central Westland.
Scottys was originally designated for removal following DOC's 2004 High-Country Review, due to its low level of
use. The maintain-by-community contract expired in 2016 and the Biv is now under Permolat's general agreement with DOC.
Those using the Biv are encouraged
to help out by providing us with updates on its condition, and carrying out any minor repairs where needed.
Access to Scottys is exclusively via the tops, and an old NZFS track onto Scottys Range opposite Seven Mile Creek
has been kept open and usable by Permolat volunteers.
catchment. Map BV20. Grid Ref: E1470151/ N5259403.
Altitude 1050m. Scottys Biv is located on a tussock bench in the headwaters of Scottys Creek.
Scattered alpine scrub surrounds the biv and there are a couple of reasonable-sized tarns providing water.
There are great views of the Taipo valley and
the impressive northern buttresses of Tara Tama from the Biv. Scottys is a moderate-hard overnighter,
and a port of call on longer tops
trips. The Tara Tama Range provide relatively easy tops travel in all directions.
Prior to its adoption Scottys was
being visited once every
3-5 years. 10 visits were recorded in 2005 following its initial profiling on the site,
but since have dropped back to around 2-3 per year.
The most direct route to Scottys Biv is up and along the Tara Tama Range with tops access provided by an old NZFS track
opposite Seven Mile Hut. The track has been kept open by members of the Permolat group and was given a cursory
trim and some re-marking in 2013.
I started a more comprehensive tidy-up in May 2015 and finished this in December.
The access road up the TR of the Taipo from SH73 was washed out on the first river flat in 2018.
Further access is difficult even for high stud 4WD vehicles currently. For most it's a four kilometre walk to
the old NZFS hut just before Seven Mile Creek. The Hut is now the property of the landowner and is padlocked.
The tops track starts on the TL of the Taipo at the mouth of a side-creek that enters the River
below the shingle bluffs immediately opposite Seven Mile Creek. A ford of the River is required to get to the track start,
and at the moment the best option at low flows only, is a downstream diagonal from the middle of Seven Mile Creek shingle fan.
A cairn and and permolat at the mouth of the creek indicate the start. Follow the creek up for 100m then exit on the TR. The track
climbs steeply up onto the River terrace and follows the TR the creek
at a fairly gentle
gradient to the start of a broad spur.
The track
climbs steeply up the spur initially, which
becomes better-defined around the 850m mark.
Regenerating scrub is starting to crowd the track further up,
but it is well-marked and easy to follow. A disintegrating water drum at 950m provides
the last bit of water for a considerable distance. A couple of small tarns along the crest of the Range
are easy to miss,
and the next nearest is just before Scottys Saddle.
From the top of the track the route continues through scattered scrub onto
the point 1371m. There are two distinct peaks to traverse after this with travel relatively
easy along the main ridge.
The Biv comes into view
at point 1399m, however a direct line is not possible
due to some obscured bluffs and
scrub gullies. Continue along the Range until 200m past the low point
between points 1399m and 1406m. There is a cairn here and from this point it is
possible to descent diagonally towards the Biv. The compass bearing if misty is 160 degrees.
A fit, experienced party should be able
to reach the Biv in 6-7 hours
from the Seven Mile. Good visibility or GPS is essential for this route.
The other commonly used route to Scottys is from
Griffin Creek Hut. Head downriver from the Hut for 15 minutes to the
side creek that drains Scottys Saddle. The Rocky Creek track
goes up the TL of this creek for a few hundred metres. Follow this
to where it crosses, then leave it and continue up the creek.
The going is straightforward initially, but gets progressively rougher as you get higher up.
The creek's upper reaches has a series of cataracts that must be scrambled around.
This require a degree of strength and agility if soloing, and it's easier if there are two or more.
A waterfall in the alpine scrub zone that has a short section of track around its TR, and
the creek opens out after this and the water peters out.
Climb out of the creek around the 1320m contour and
head up a scree towards a large boulder with a cairn on top on an unnamed saddle(E1469280/ N5259365),
200m South of Scottys Saddle.
The approaches to Scottys Saddle from a side-branch of the access creek are very steep.
Scottys Biv
is a pleasant 20 minute drop in an ESE direction from Scottys Saddle down a series of
tussock benches. Allow four hours from Griffin Creek Hut to Scottys Biv, or a long day (8-10 hours)
from the Griffin roadend at Harrington Creek on SH73.
Scottys was built in 1958 by Alan Farmer from Rotorua.
The materials were dropped from a Dominie aircraft with wing racks.
Alan has written
about the Biv in his book, "The Best Job Ever." Scottys has flat-iron walls and roof and
a single perspex window at the far end. Its interior is furbushed with
a cooking bench and two shortish sleeping platforms. Two foam mattresses with covering sheets were dropped in
with the paint gear in 2013.
The biv has wire tiedowns and water is from two reasonable sized tarns, or a 44 gallon drum next to the Biv.
There is no toilet.
Scottys received zero maintenance from the early 1970's to 2004,
and moisture got in under the door and rotted out the adjacent section of floor.
In 2004 DOC repainted the Biv, patched the hole, added a new metal flashing to the bottom of the door,
repaired the window,
and replaced the rotting studs, joists and bearers.
The Biv was repainted by Permolat
volunteers in 2013 and the roof redone with bright red paint to make it easier to locate
from above. In September 2013 I resealed the roof and replaced some of the roof nails with screws.
In 2015 I repainted the roof, renailed the roof purlins, and replaced more of the flathead nails on the cladding
with screws. The Biv was still cosy and dry in early 2016, but a small roof leak was spotted in June this year and a basin placed
under it.
Scottys Biv can be accessed from Rocky Creek Biv using a route
in the head of Rocky Creek.
Rocky Creek veers SE a short distance upstream from the Saddle that goes over to the Griffin. It rises steeply
up the faces of the Tara Tama Range and
there are a number of small cataracts
to negotiate, all fairly easy. The Creek forks and the TL branch peters out on a
steep scree. Climb to the top of the scree and continue up a flat ridge through a narrow band of alpine scrub
towards the crest of the range.
An old rockfield is crossed below a line of bluffs
on the crest of the Range. Head SW here across a narrow ridge, before making the last ascent up onto the crest.
The top section is exposed in a couple of places, but there is plenty of tussock to hold onto.
It might be a bit tricky dropping down this route as the good lines are harder to spot from above.
It is an easy 20 minute drop in
a SE direction from the crest of the Range down to the Biv. Allow 3-4 hours
to get from Rocky Creek Biv to Scottys Biv.
Creek Hut in the Arahura can be accessed via Newton
Creek basin and the col between points 1516m and 1751m.
Travel is easy in the upper reaches of the Creek, but it gets a bit rougher a bit further down.
The odd short detours may be required through the alpine scrub on the Creek edge, however these are not problematic.
The last section before the Hut is quite steep and bouldery and a sidle
is necessary through the montane forest on the TR. The bush here is
not too bad to get through. Allow 4-5 hours for the crossing from Scottys to Newton Creek Hut.
Dunns Hut can be accessed either via Dunns Saddle and the Tara Tama
Range, or directly over the Top of Tara Tama.
The Dunns Saddle route involves a sidle across a steep scree
from the NW shoulder of the low peak of Tara Tama. Sidle back across to the main ridge aiming for the small
knob just north of Dunns Saddle. This avoids a steep section of ridge between Tara
Tama and Dunns Saddle. Travel down
Dunns Creek from the Saddle is straightforward, although there is some
avalanche risk from the Tara Tama side after heavy snowfalls.
Tara Tama traverse can be done either by climbing up to Scottys Saddle and following the crest of the Tara Tama Range,
or by dropping directly into Scottys Creek from the Biv and climbing up onto the summit ridge from there.
The open side-creek directly opposite the Biv visible in the larger hut photo provides the best access.
A short scrub-bash is required to get down into
Scottys Creek and a waterfall at the lower end of the access creek can be skirted on the TL
through patchy scrub and large boulders.
Take the TR fork of the creek at the 1100m contour and continue up to around 1400m, then
exit on the TL and climb the scree or snow slopes onto the ridge between Tara Tama and point 1751m.
Drop from the Tara Tama's summit down its broad SE spur to
around E1471066/ N5256463 where a cairn marks drop-off into Dunns basin. A steep tussock face
provides access into an open gut that enters Dunns Creek
20 minutes upstream of the Hut.
The gut is easy travel, but in the colder months is an active avalanche chute, and should be avoided
after heavy snowfalls.
Top Olderog Biv can be accessed from Scottys via
the upper
Wainihinihi River basin or the head of Olderog Creek. The more direct and logical route
along the crest of the Range from Mt. Olson is compromised by a number
of exposed, vertical sections of ridge.
Access into the Wainihinihi basin is from point 1572m down the broad spur on the TL of the upper Wainihinihi.
A canyon in the upper Creek can be skirted by sidling across the
tussock terraces on the TL of the valley at around the 11oom contour.
A small side-creek is crossed at E1465798/ N5258420 and
the next side-creek is followed down through a series
of smooth rock
chutes through a band of alpine scrub into the main Creek.
The Wainihinihi opens out onto a wide river flat a bit further down with plenty of good campsites.
Access back onto the Olderog Range is up the first side-creek downriver from Magnesite Creek.
Climb up through scattered alpine scub on the side-creek's TL, then
up a steep open face onto the crest, just East of point 1430m.
The drop-off point to the Biv is short distance back towards Mt. Olson (around E1464410/ N5257820),
and is marked with
a cairn. The Biv is sited
around a 100 vertical metres below the crest of the Range on the Olderog side
and is visible from the top in
fine weather. In poor visibility
a bearing of 168 degrees will take you from the cairn down to
the bench where the Biv is located, however you'd need to be spot on in order not to overshoot and
end up down in Olderog Creek.
The second option for accessing Top Olderog
is to drop from the col between
point 1566m and Mt. Olson down a steep gut into the head of Olderog Creek.
travel down the Creek to the small side-creek that
comes in on the TR at E1464688/ N5257080 and ascend this to the bench where the Biv is located.
A long day
and good conditions would be required for a fit, experienced party for both of the above routes.
A portion of Razorback Ridge is not traversable without climbing gear, however it
is possible to sidle
under the troublesome section on the Wainihinihi side. This requires dropping
from point 1572m into the head of Wainihinihi Creek, then sidling out on the TR along the 1060m contour
to the forks of the
unnamed side-creek further along (at E1465628/ N5258785).
Head up the dividing ridge between this side-creek and the next one downriver,
onto the Mt. Griffin tops. From here it's an easy couple of hours in good conditions down to the start of
the Wilson Knob track.
Scottys Creek looks reasonably benign from the Biv, but is not recommended as a route down to the Taipo valley.
The only report on hand is from 30 years ago
and describes it as an "horrendous 14-hour scrub-bash."
Roof leak needs checking and attending to.
A small billy, a frypan, a hammer, a tenon saw, an aluminium bucket and wash basin, some spare AAA batteries,
a few 50mm flathead nails, two teatowels, a pair of jandals, a pair of sandals,
a hand brush and scrubbing brush, a phillips screwdriver, some duct tape, and two
bits of foam mattress with covering sheets for the bunks. The crate of paint gear contains
a scraper, a wire brush, a large and small paint brush, 250ml Wattyl Rust Eater, 250ml Wattyl Rust Metal primer,
denzo tape, 1.5 litres of New Denim Blue acrylic, and some plastic
containers for washing up. Underneath the Biv there is a stack of timber
comprising lengths of 4x2, 6x1, 2x2, some bits of the old 4x4 bearer, a couple of
3m lengths of tongue and groove, the old door, and three warratahs.


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Former Dolphins General Manager Jeff Ireland has landed in another NFL front office, at least temporarily.
Ireland is working for the Seahawks as a draft consultant, Alex Marvez of FOX Sports reports.
Whether Ireland stays in Seattle beyond the draft remains to be seen: He and the Seahawks will discuss the possibility of a full-time job after the draft ends on May 10.
Ireland didn't exactly cover himself in glory during the six drafts for which he was G.M. of the Dolphins, but the well-regarded Seahawks General Manager John Schneider apparently thinks Ireland has something to contribute. And Ireland surely jumped at the chance to leave behind his disappointing tenure in Miami and work for the Super Bowl champions in Seattle.


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darker shades of metal, hymns of goth and post-punk ...all for the worship of darkness
Saturday, January 7, 2017
Naddred : "Sluagh"
What I am asking of black metal bands in 2017 is to show me more than just blast beats. I want the tremolo picking to only be one color of blackness used. What is the point of just falling in line with the rest of the corpse painted sheep ? Naddred does a pretty decent job of not just becoming another face in the shadows , but giving the dark side it's due. Hailing from Ireland the production can be uneven in places and the vocals fall in line with your typical scowling rasp. The drum sound is the roughest factor, but guitar sounds great if not a tad like Inquisition. For what this is the opener is pretty solid writhing it's way around you rather than numbing you with a droned blitz. The title track finds the guitar keeping a decent balance of ugliness and atmosphere ringing out and this could be because they know they do not have to rely on speed alone.
At times you can hear a more death metal undertone to the guitar on "the Beast Who Walks the Earth" . Aside from being more mid paced and having a more deliberate throb, nothing really sets this apart from what I already got from the last Inquisition album, which has a bigger sound to it. The main difference is the vocals are not in a monotone croak.The last song rather than bring things to a climax that might pull me in just kinda breezed by. These guys are good at what they do, what they do I get in better doses from Inquisition. This is not to say they are ripping them off, but it is a sound that I already have in my iPod. This album is decent , I'll give it a 7.5, perhaps it might grow on me if I were to give it time, but I hear so much black metal that is just alright or gets the job done that what I want from the genre I consider to be one of my favorites is something with more passion and urgency that I have not heard before or at least a take on what is familiar with more of their own thumb print.
This album is being released February 13th by Invictus Productions
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text:
Evan Coyne Maloney is the documentary filmmaker and proprietor of Brain Terminal. During the Bush administration, Evan was out in the field with his camera observing protests and interviewing protesters. He is therefore in a good position to recall the signs and symbols of the left-wing opposition to the Bush administration's post-9/11 national security policies. How do they compare to the Tea Party protesters expressing their opposition to Barack Obama's program of national socialism?
Evan has now produced a timely new video splicing together footage that he calls "A trip down memory lane." He describes it as four minutes of nonstop examples of violent imagery and extremist rhetoric employed by left-wing anti-Bush protesters. He writes: "For some reason, despite it being well documented at the time by me and many others, the media chose to ignore it." Indeed.
In his "memory lane" post, Evan observes a transformation in the attitude of the Democrat/media axis to political protest. He even identifies the precise date of the transformation: "[I]t seems that publicly airing your grievances stopped being patriotic right around noon on January 20th, 2009." How so? "Once President Obama was sworn in, protesting became incitement to violence."
Evan adds: "One thing's for sure: If there is such a thing as dangerous rhetoric, then the media is at least one president too late in reporting the story."
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text:
training your mind to transform your body
Since 1985, exercise, nutrition, and mental health have been our focus at Performance Incorporated. Our 'bio-psycho-social' model looks at the whole person, a state of the art method of treating fitness for performance-oriented clients and athletes. We understand your total needs and provide customized individual programs focused on healthy eating with a training program geared toward helping everyone to actualize his or her own best "fit" self.
We design training tools to enhance the quality and duration of client lives through coaching, exercise, nutrition, yoga and lifestyle change. We empower each client to learn and incorporate these skills independently into everyday life through coaching to encourage growth of strong minds and bodies.
We empower you; we give you the ability and insight to impact all aspects of well being. Our program targets your specific needs, budget and learning style. Every client is given a full assessment, treating each person as an individual with their own needs and goals. We focus your mind to optimize your body through our teaching and coaching techniques.
Performance Incorporated began in 1985. Founder, Joe Garafolo, building on 8 years in private practice, formulated a unique program based not only on exercise but also on nutrition and lifestyle. Today, Performance Incorporated includes a whole team of professionals, schooled in these well honed principles working together with a mantra to deliver and improve quality of life.


text:
Becoming a member of the British Chamber of Commerce in China means you'll be joining a network of business leaders and industry experts. Whether the biggest multinational or smallest start-up, companies join our membership programme to network with experienced peers, to develop strategies for expansion and to contribute to policy development.
Corporate Standard – Corporate Standard Membership applies to companies that have an office in the UK and are thus able to vote in our Annual General Meeting. Corporate member company representatives are also able to run for election to our Executive Committee.
Corporate Associate – Corporate Associate Membership applies to companies without a registered presence or a substantial connection with the UK. Associate members are unable to vote in our Annual General Meeting.
Individual – Individual Members shall be any individual who has an interest in the promotion of trade and commerce between the UK and China but for whatever reason is unable to join as a Corporate Member. Individual Members will not have the right to vote in our Annual General Meeting.
National Membership – National Membership is a membership which allows access to all the British Chambers across China (Beijing, Shanghai, Guangdong and Chengdu). For more information regarding the national membership, please contact us directly.


text:
So I thought Twitter was just a phase… How wrong I was. It bewilders me: what makes one social media application 'stick' and another one wither away into an html graveyard? This was the concern for those attending a session on The Realities of Badging at the Opening Education Practices in Scotland Advisory Forum in October. Open Badges (OBs) are digital image files created by Mozilla Firefox and are being taken up by some educationalists as a tool for recognising and rewarding non-academic activities [think boy/girl scout badges for the digital generation]. These files contain metadata about what skills, qualities, and level of achievements the badge holder has attained, as well as information about who has issued the badge, and even its verification by a third party. The value in their portability and imagery emerges when students add them to their social media sites, such as Facebook, LinkedIn, and WordPress, in order to showcase their employability
For OB's to 'stick', a reciprocal affiliation needs to develop between HE and FE institutions and employers. With such few trials of OBs in existence in the UK, the qualities of this relationship are unclear. For universities, there is no point spending resources creating OBs unless employers agree to value OBs, understanding what they represent and what weighting they carry. Employers are reluctant to offer their unreserved support for OBs until they understand the purpose and currency of OBs through regular adoption and use by HE and FE institutions. A charity director at the session summed up this catch-22 situation with her somewhat rhetorical question, 'if we build them, will they come?'.
In her blog post Evidencing Employability Skills with Open Badges, Grainne Hamilton, a former Jisc RSC Scotland employee, summed up three possible barriers to making OB's 'stick' for employers:
Employers want to immediately understand the value behind a badge. They don't want to spend time clicking through to the detail of a badge unless they feel it will reveal something worthwhile
Employers are concerned with badge apathy and are likely to be put off the concept of badges if they come across too many badges that are irrelevant to them in a given context
It is probable that new trust networks will develop but initially it is likely badges from issuers employers already know and trust will be valued more.
Grainne's blog post offers some solutions to these problems, including tagging, clustering and endorsing badges. However, for me, there is a larger issue that needs to be addressed around employability and the use of Open Badges: one of articulation. Wouldn't handing out badges, albeit in shiny digital formats, simply reinforce the cognitive acquisition metaphor of 'skills' that can be 'transferred' from one place to another? As my colleagues in the Careers department argued when asked about OBs, the issue isn't how we represent the skills attained – a certificate, digital badges or LinkedIn – it is how the student then articulates their understanding of this skill in relation to the workplace during an interview. The issue isn't about how easily the employer can understand or recognise the significance of a LinkedIn endorsement or an Open Badge for Digital Learning, it is about how the student recognises and translates their non-academic experiences into professional responses about workplace practice. As educators, this is where our focus needs to be directed in order to better understand and enhance graduate employability.


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Derby Team: Crude Hitters
Your Name: Lia Mcleod
Do you have any athletic experience?:
Do you have any skating experience?:
Do you have any roller derby experience?:
How often do you train/practice?:
Why did you get involved with roller derby?:
What is your derby nickname?: Slamwhich
How did you get your derby nickname?:
Do you use any notable equipment?:
What is your favorite part of roller derby?:
Do you have any tips for upcoming derby players?:


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Build Your Own Kitchen Island
As you decide to build your own kitchen island, it is vital for you to know how to design this addition since you have to make sure things go as you planned. That is right—we are talking about making the most of your plan so you can make the most of the kitchen island in both function and aesthetic. If this is something you are interested with as you decide to build your own kitchen island, it should be such a good idea for you to stick around with me reading the rest of this post to figure everything out this time. Through this post, I will show you how to design the kitchen island easily without any hassles right now.
Generally, the kitchen island is a stand-alone stand located in the midst of the room and it has the function to offer the relaxation efficiently by giving the space for most of us to work around the kitchen as the heart of the house. The kitchen island will create the space around when it is placed in the middle of the kitchen. We are talking about the best solution to divide the kitchen from the living room. So, what are you going to do when you want to design the kitchen island so you will be able to build it by yourself at this very moment? The perfect plan is what you need the most and in order to do so, you have to know the kitchen island you are about to build. The options are endless; it is possible for you to add the prepared dinner tops while so many other people prefer to add the sinks or pullout drawer fridges so the kitchen island could provide a greater convenience and the ability to mingle with friends.
It is necessary for you to figure out the right size of the kitchen island as well. It means you have to figure out the accurate size and options for the kitchen island.


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The Cantonese is coming along naturally, and it's very fun; I have hit a point where I've plateaued on studying, but I've been humbled greatly this week, and that helps a lot with me understanding how everything is tying together, spiritual and factual. I'm loving sharing the culture and language with others, and I thank you for sharing that with me; it's a great gift.
Elder Neil. L Anderson came and spoke, and it was on recognizing the spirit, which helped a ton because i was feeling down and groggy. I'd done a ton of district meetings the morning of, and done a blessing of healing for a sister in our district. The talk had so many great points, but some of the best were his attributes of the spirit.
1-intellectually and emotionally involved
2-heart needs to be believing and anticipating
3-you can recieve direction without explanation with specific words in your mind
(in the moment where you need the spirit, you focus on nothing but listening to the spirit, and for whomever you are trying to help)
4-Connects doctrine to personal life
5-strengthens educational desires
6-extends power of conscience
7- confirmed by priesthood (D&C 46:27)
8-cannot be forced
9-line upon line, leaving room for answers later(the lord will give whatever revelation you need when you need it, not when you want it.)
10-it will often come as you speak or write.
I've been having some rough times like I said before, and I want to say to Dad that I know he's listening to the spirit because the letter he sent me said exactly what I needed to hear when i needed it. I love you dad, and you've blessed me with your great advice through your letter; it will has and will give me great comfort in the future. I went through the temple for the first time in a long time (the temple's been closed), and I was going through endownments, and I was halfway through the video when I had a thought come to mind that I haven't had for a while. One that I've pondered since I was young, maybe 8 yrs, and I finally recieved comfort from it's burden on my mind. The thought that I know there is life after death, but I don't know what it will be like, how i will think, and alot of surface questions. It's a feelling so raw and deep, but I can't describe it besides fear. and in that fear, I asked god "will I be happy in the after life?" I passed through the veil and into the celestial room, and I felt so peaceful and guided, and I knew god was with me then. I pondered my heart, and told god i want to know how to finally identify and finish this problem, this feeling; and I told him I would listen and obey. I felt I should go to Alma 32:21, which has been a favorite scripture for a long time, and it says 21 And now as I said concerning faith—faith is not to have a perfect knowledge of things; therefore if ye have faith ye hope for things which are not seen, which are true.
I felt so humbled, I had not relied on god as much as I had thought, and in that moment, the spirit told me to have faith that he would provide, which i had told myself, but never hoped for... Upon small and simple things we will be taught, and I am a slow learner, so it works.
My companionship of three is doing great, and we are finally working together. Tell me how sam is, what he's doing, he has not written, and send me pics of what you guys are up to. Thank you so much for the letter and the package; I needed both desparetly, and I hope I can write you again soon!! lOVE YOU
You are amazing; everything I would ever need was in that package, and it made my day so happy! I needed it, and everything is heavenly, so thank you! I love you so much!


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NAME: Rend Lake State Fish and Wildlife Area
LOCATION: Eight miles south of Mt. Vernon, just west of Bonnie
Total Acres: 12,690 Acres of Water: 4,000
Huntable Acres: 7,690 Acres of Timber: 1,700
Open, Cultivated or Fallow Acres: 3,900
This area consists of bottomland hardwoods, upland ag fields, and surrounding land including 3,000 acres of impounded water in the sub-impoundments managed primarily for waterfowl. Food is produced both by tenant farming, site staff farming, and moist-soil production. Five thousand posted acres are managed as a waterfowl refuge. All areas are open to fishing most of the year with the refuge area being closed during waterfowl use periods.
Waterfowl, quail, rabbit, squirrel, dove, deer, woodcock, furbearers, and turkey.
1. Waterfowl hunting according to special regulations. Youth Waterfowl season is held the weekend preceding the duck season opener - follow statewide regulations.
2. Dove hunting is non-toxic shot only. Hunting hours are sunrise to 11:30am daily Sept, 1 - 5; season closes September 30. A drawing will be held one hour before sunrise if more hunters show up than can be accommodated.
3. Special regulations apply; check bulletin boards or at headquarters.
4. Archery deer hunters must harvest an antlerless deer on the refuge before an antlered deer is harvested. Refuge Archery Deer Hunt is Oct. 1 - Oct. 30.
5. Dove hunting on C.O.E. managed areas is statewide regulations.
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT: Rend Lake State Fish and Wildlife Area, 10885 E. Jefferson Rd., Bonnie, IL 62816, PH: 618/279-3110 or Region 5 Headquarters, 11731 State Hwy. 37, Benton, IL 62812, PH: 618/435-8138 or District Wildlife Biologist, 13995 E. Game Farm Rd., Mt. Vernon, IL 62864, PH: 618/242-1272.
Wildlife management on this public land site is funded in part by the Federal Aid in Wildlife Restoration Program (P-R Act of 1937). Excise taxes paid on firearms, ammunition, and archery equipment fund wildlife habitat developments, land acquisition, research and hunter safety education courses. (US Fish & Wildlife Service and the Illinois Dept. of Natural Resources cooperating)
Copyright © 2018 IL DNR


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Latest News
All the latest news can be found below:
View all news28 March 2018
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Sixteen Candles
My Dinner With Jimi
Finding Home
Spaced Invaders
Sweet Hearts Dance
Kramer vs. Kramer
All Justin Henry photos
All Justin Henry films
Movies.com, the ultimate source for everything movies, is your destination for new movie trailers, reviews, photos, times, tickets + more! Stay in the know with the latest movie news and cast interviews at Movies.com.
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text: Modenas has launched the new 118 EFI that features a new, Euro 3-certified fuel injection technology that is more efficient and green. It is also the first moped or 'kapchai' to adopt the fuel injection system here in the country. Powered by a Kawasaki-sourced 120 cc engine with Rotary Gear System, the 118 EFI gets its fuel injection system from the Synerject, an expert supplier from the US. Apart from that, the 118 EFI also gets a host of features including tubeless tyres, front disc brake with two-piston caliper as well as a 4.3-litre tank, that is capable of moving the bike as far as 250 km at an average speed of 80 km/h. Taking its design cue from the CT, the 118 EFI is fitted with sport alloy wheels and is available in two colours; green and blue. The new Modenas 118 EFI retails at RM4,755 (without insurance and tax) and comes with a new manufacturing warranty of 2 years or 25,000 km.


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I received this book for free from Publisher in exchange for an honest review. This does not affect my opinion of the book or the content of my review.Midnight Marked by Chloe Neill
Narrator: Sophie Eastlake
Series: Chicagoland Vampires #12
Published by Tantor Audio, NAL on March 1, 2016
Genres: Urban Fantasy
Pages: 384
Length: 10 hours 47 minutes
Format: Audiobook
Source: Publisher
As you may remember from my review of the previous book in this series, I'm so not in love with it anymore. But I've come this far, I'm having a hard time letting go. I want to see the end!
Merit is one of Chicago's most skilled vampire warriors; these days, she doesn't scare easily. But she and Master vampire Ethan have made a new and powerful enemy, and he won't give up until he owns the Windy City.With his last plan thwarted, he's more determined than ever to watch Cadogan burn. Ethan has put the House's vampires on high alert, but their enemy will stop at nothing, including pitting supernatural against supernatural. In this deadly game of cat-and-mouse, the stakes are life or death-and winning might mean sacrificing everything.
That being said, if things continue in the direction of Midnight Marked, I might actually enjoy the final book. I thought there were like 3 or 4 left, but there's only one. Which just confirms this whole marriage and baby hinting has dragged on too far – the events could have been big parts of future books, but instead they're going to get crammed into one! That worries me… but we'll wait and see on that. For now, let's talk Midnight Marked.
What Worked
- The "Big Bad" was pretty great actually. It was kind of a continuation of the last book – the Circle, with their magical mobishness, was at the center and I really liked the way they tried to take Chicago.
- Speaking of liking the "Big Bad" – I think part of why I liked them was this fairly epic fight scene toward the end. Mallory and Catcher – easily my favorite couple of the series – were right front and center and the magical fireworks were pretty great. I think it would like great in a movie, honestly.
- Merit's dad! OMG he's come a long way and I actually LIKE him. Wow! And yay 🙂
- Ethan and Merit – there's some improvement here. I like where they are as the book ends. But, I still have issues (as you'll see below).
- The shifters! I always enjoy them and in Midnight Marked, they managed to complicate the shit out of things 🙂
- Sophie Eastlake's narration continues to be a solid B. Like her for all the characters and wouldn't be happy if they switched it!
What Didn't Work
- Relationship talk – this is my CONTINUED problem with Merit and Ethan. Merit is always thinking about how he's going to propose someday. How they're going to have the first vampire baby someday. Why can't we just focus on their current relationship? I'm so sick and tired of the continous foreshadowing – Talk about taking away all the anticipation and excitement. There's no wonder, no uncertainty. When it does actually happen I wonder if I'll even care.
- Another continuous problem – recaps. I will say they were better than the last book, but geez, just assume your reader is smart enough to remember. Please?
- I think this series lost all real excitement for me when the GP was "defeated". That drama was so good for the story. Without it, it's just a plain procedural. With paranormal elements of course.
I wonder if the series will ever return to one that I LOVE… But with Midnight Marked it's headed in the right direction again.
Berls feels like Midnight Marked is headed in the right direction... Click To Tweet


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Shuta is an online multiplayer strategy shooter heavily inspired by SUPERHOT and Toribash. It essentially consists in taking advantage of turn-based mechanics to plan your actions and defeat your opponents.
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