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As more individuals leave military service and re-enter civilian life, institutions find themselves in competition for a pool of prospective adult students who are goal-oriented, motivated and have a built-in source of educational financial support. Making sure your campus is truly veteran-friendly can help you stand out and attract more student-veterans.
Each year, several publications release their lists of colleges and universities deemed veteran-friendly. Criteria for rating and ranking the institutions has ranged from minimal, such as membership in the now-defunct Servicemembers Opportunity Colleges, along with acceptance of the concurrent application, to more in-depth examination of the quantity and type of services offered.
Some of the lists provide a broad cross-section of institutions in their reviews, while others focus on a select group of institutions, such as those offering online programs. What's important to remember regarding the development of these lists is that the criteria, selection methods and rankings have very little to do with what veterans need to help them be most academically and socially successful in higher education.
Qualifying as veteran-friendly entails more than maintaining membership in initiatives similar to SOC or offering the Yellow Ribbon Program with the Post-9/11 GI Bill. It doesn't mean a college must have a one-stop-shop veterans' center to attend to all issues impacting student-veterans either. Agreeing to review military transcripts for applicable academic credit and having a veterans' club also doesn't automatically put a school in the veteran-friendly category.
While these and other functional resources do contribute to providing better support to student-veterans, using only these criteria to set the bar for veteran-friendly institutions winds up doing a disservice to student-veterans.
That's because some veterans use these lists to make serious decisions about where to use their hard-earned education benefits to obtain valuable further education and training to support their next career move after military service. Veterans rely on the information provided to help them determine where to attend, what available services will help provide them with needed support, and how long they will need to attend before graduating.
This triggers concern because veterans don't know the true meaning behind the veteran-friendly label and therefore become subject to making decisions based on false information. Without a clear picture of what veteran-friendly truly means, veterans can find themselves drawn to educational environments that don't support their retention and persistence to graduation and may lead them to spend valuable benefits on courses of study that don't lead them to viable careers.
I've seen this happen at a number of institutions that had been rated as veteran-friendly in publications' lists but then turned out to lack a true veteran-friendly environment for the student-veterans who chose to attend those institutions. A truly veteran-friendly institution needs to go beyond the "friendly" label by fostering an institutional culture that's supportive, appreciative, respectful, embracing and inclusive of student-veterans.
Veteran-friendly institutions must offer all of the resources and support services mentioned earlier, but in addition to incorporating other important strategies to build a campus climate geared toward developing student-veterans' holistic success and engaging them in their growth toward a new career in civilian life.
Take the right steps to become more veteran-friendly
You can help your institution qualify as truly veteran-friendly by taking the following critically important programmatic steps:
Well-designed articulation agreements can help your adult learners transfer seamlessly from a two-year to a four-year college. But officials at Missouri State University have developed partnerships with two-year institutions that encompass much more than streamlined course transfers.
Those partnerships help both the community colleges and MSU meet enrollment goals and enhance students' academic experiences. The collaborations involved the campus communities from the presidents down. Academic administrators and faculty members at all the institutions work together to promote good curricular developments and effective transfer policies.
"There's an enormous value in collaboration," said Gloria Galanes, the dean of the College of Arts and Letters at MSU. She spoke at the American Conference of Academic Deans Annual Meeting last year, along with Tamera Jahnke, MSU's dean of the College of Natural and Applied Sciences; and John Bookstaver, the dean of the Division of Business, Science, Education, Math and Computer Science at St. Charles Community College.
MSU's A+ program encourages a smooth transfer by offering:
Implement strategies that promote collaboration
Transfer students are vital to enrollment goals at Missouri State University. Academic administrators and faculty members serve a critical role in creating and maintaining effective collaborations to recruit those students. Strategies MSU's deans use include:
For more information, you may contact Don Simpson at email@example.com.
At Appalachian State University, officials made the transfer process simpler for students and more efficient for staff members by creating an Office of Transfer Articulation. Since that office was launched in July 2010, its scope has grown considerably to support transfer students before and after they enroll.
"We want the transfer students to have a good experience and graduate in a timely manner," Susan Davies said. She's the associate vice chancellor for enrollment management.
Before the new office was created, the Admissions Office articulated courses for most first-year and transfer students. And a staff member in the Registrar's Office articulated courses from out-of-state institutions. The five admissions professionals processing 18,000 to 20,000 applications and articulating credit were overloaded, Davies said.
The new office was located geographically between the Admissions and Registrar's Offices because it works closely with both, Davies said. It strives to provide articulation reports within two weeks of the time a student is admitted, Davies said.
The office launched with funding for one new position. Director Jane Rex was "the best hire I ever made," Davies said. Her extensive experience working at community colleges was especially important for the role. Davies also shifted two staff members from the Registrar's Office into the new office.
Initiatives to support transfer students include:
Advise transfer students to help them maximize their credit
When Appalachian State University adopted a new general education curriculum a few years ago, it created some problems for transfer students. It worked best for students who started at Appalachian for their first year. Officials needed to find solutions to ensure that transfer students got the credit they deserved and to maintain good relationships with community colleges.
It adopted a policy that if transfer students completed the core curriculum at their previous institution, Appalachian recognizes that work as completion of its general education curriculum. The Office of Transfer Articulation also advises students about their options to get the most credit for their previous work, Davis said. That could mean calling the student to suggest that she wait a semester to transfer so that she can complete the core curriculum before transferring.
Plus, Appalachian recently implemented a reverse-transfer process. If students have completed most of the credits they need for the core curriculum at their community college, they can take the remaining courses at Appalachian. They then transfer those courses back to the community college so that they complete their associate degree there. That degree satisfies Appalachian's general education requirement.
For more information, you may contact Susan Davies at firstname.lastname@example.com.
Rita Serotkin, who has worked in adult higher education for much of her adult life, became an adult learner in 2001 at the age of 54 when she decided to finally pursue her doctoral degree. She had always wanted to, but there was always a reason to put it off.
"The truth of it is that I was scared — just absolutely terrified. 'A doctorate? Me? Am I smart enough?' These are the things that ran through my head," she said. "It had been 30 years since I'd gotten my master's, so I thought, 'Oh my God, I don't remember how to write a term paper, do research with footnotes, and all that stuff.'"
Then, while working at Widener University, where part of her job at the time was advising students in doctoral programs, a student she had recruited and with whom she had become friends came into her office and asked her when she was going to get started on her doctorate.
"She spit back right at me all the things I had said to her," Serotkin said. "She was my age, and she convinced me that if she could do it I could too, which was what I always told prospective students."
Now, Serotkin, who serves as the associate vice president and dean of Guilford College's Center for Continuing Education and Summer School, tells prospective and current students that she knows exactly how terrified they feel, because she felt that way not so long ago. She also makes sure they know that her job is to remove as many obstacles as possible to help them succeed.
And she ensures adult learners at the institution have access to the kinds of support services they need. For example, a learning commons offers free tutoring and workshops on topics such as developing study and test-taking skills. Credit-bearing classes such as Guilford's Adult Transitions, Gateways to Success, and Introduction to Computers addresses adult learners' personal insecurities and academic deficiencies.
An adult student government ensures that older learners have access to the kinds of opportunities that appeal to them, such as help finding better jobs, managing their time, and balancing competing responsibilities.
And a peer mentoring program matches new adult learners with current mature students who have achieved academic success. Mentors and mentees are matched based on their majors and interests. With some of the money from a $100,000 grant from the Council of Independent Colleges and Walmart, she grew the mentoring program to about 10 times its size. And each semester, it continues to grow because students who benefitted as mentees want to pay it forward by mentoring future students.
Serotkin has also developed new undergraduate programs since arriving at Guilford in 2006, convinced the faculty to offer existing programs at night, and worked with leaders at other area institutions to develop a referral center that will be located in downtown Greensboro, where people will be able to go to talk to advisors about the best institution and program based on their needs, career interests and prior college experiences.
Not everything is rosy. The state of North Carolina recently did away with a program that gave in-state students attending private institutions some scholarship money. That has made Guilford less accessible to many adults. And as many institutions herd adult learners into online programs because they're less costly to run than face-based ones, adult enrollments have suffered. Plus, some students now arriving at Guilford come with negative experiences in online programs.
"Running an adult degree program is difficult, no matter where you are, because most are run on a shoestring budget," she said. "But distance learning isn't right for every adult learner. Many aren't technologically savvy or have the independent learning skills needed to succeed in online programs. Unfortunately, distance education is how a lot of institutions are managing to cut costs."
Serotkin tells those students that the negative experiences they've had are in the past, and reiterates that she's there to ensure they have whatever supports they need to succeed.
"Yes, the bottom line is what everyone is looking at with adult-serving programs, but you can't lose sight of the students," she said.
For more information, you may contact Rita Serotkin at email@example.com.


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52 Pick-Up
Opened 28 Aug 2014
Opened 28 Aug 2014
No reviews yet. Be the first to write one!WRITE A REVIEW
A relationship. A deck of cards. Infinite possibilities. "I like you, but there are some things about you I don't like. So I'll change you, like a Rubik's Cube, until I get the version of you I like." An astute and intimate rollercoaster, 52 Pick Up works like memory - not linear, but swerving from belly-busting comedy, to hysterically universal truths, to quiet heartbreak at the literal drop of a card.

subset: commoncrawl


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645 of 666 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars
Revolutionary, but Problematic too,
By goosefish (Durham, NC USA) - See all my reviews
This review is from: The Fifty Dollar and Up Underground House Book (Paperback)
I read through the first chapter on Amazon and was absolutely sold on the idea. Subterranean housing is vastly more ecologically compatible than surface dwellings; it can even be environmentally regenerative. But the book's last chapter was a crushing blow; the designs and methods Oehler suggests are not compliant with the Uniform Building Codes.
If you do your best to play by the rules in life, this book will have to be set aside. It's thought-provoking reading, to be sure -- not to be missed. But before you can set out into the wilderness and build yourself an inexpensive answer to today's housing problems, you'll need to socially-engineer a way around civilization's permit/inspector traps. The author proposes a few far-fetched possibilities, e.g. getting a code variance, getting an underground code amendment. Basically, the only real options are: either move to an area with NO building codes (Oehler himself admits there are almost none left), or hide your construction -- and this entails forgoing utility hook-ups, since meter readers apparently double as spies for the housing board, looking for unauthorized renovation/building projects. Being an outlaw is not my cup of tea. Nor does it suit the mainstream. So perhaps this book's main function, after showing us how inexpensive housing can be, is to wake us up to a harsh reality. Housing boards, composed largely of members of the building professions, "have a vested interest in maintaining the status quo. In other words they are not likely to take a cheerful view of any system which cuts the cost of building from 70% to 90%." The reason houses are so expensive is: the law REQUIRES them to be, and the law is assiduously enforced by the very contractors building those houses. What we need is a uniform building code flexibly oriented around safety and good construction standards, NOT the maximization of revenue to entrenched special interests.
212 of 215 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars
I built it,
This review is from: The Fifty Dollar and Up Underground House Book (Paperback)
I built the $50 and up underground cabin about 8 years ago. I could not believe it would actually work but figured I was not out much if if didn't.
Well, I'm still here and so is the cabin. Problems - a few. The need to learn about and stand up for your God Given Rights to provide shelter for your family? Yes. It is necessary. I prefer to fly under the radar, not flaunt it, post $5000 per day land use fees for trespassing officials and the like as well as use Mikes ideas and stay away from the power company. We are totally off grid and don't even notice when the local grid goes down several times per year. Following Mike's information and related videos tell you most of what you need to know to be successful. The farther you stray from his guidance, the more problems you may have. He now recommends EPDM as a membrane and it is a very good choice, but.... good ol' polyethylene will get you by if you can't afford it. I recommend the post on a couple inches of concrete with a steel pin in the center with a plastic vapor barrier under it. Pier size as needed. I agree that you don't want the preservatives in your living space, but the charred post in plastic did not work for me. Those rotted in a few years but the posts on pins as mentioned show no deterioration. If there is any chance that moisture may be a problem, I recommend the French drain option also to help remove moisture that may get in. Expand the umbrella part of the membrane ten feet or so past the house perimeter if possible for a drier shelter. [...] I hope yours is successful too.
168 of 177 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars
Who Wants to Look at Houses?,
By A Customer
This review is from: The Fifty Dollar and Up Underground House Book (Paperback)
I first purchased this book about twenty years ago, then lent out my copy and have been without it for five years or more. Having recently bought a new copy, I have just finished re-reading it once again. I find the author's ideas to be intelligent, logical, and revolutionary.
His personality comes through strongly as he is a man who is not afraid to state his opinions. I find this book to be an interesting read for this reason alone, but strongly recommend it on the basis of the building system he outlines. He explains to the reader, in simple, easily comprehensible language, just how to go about building a warm in winter, cool in summer, low cost home, that is easy on both the eye and the environment. A huge advantage is that a person living in such a home doesn't have to look at neighbor's homes, and, for their own part, is residing in a home that blends in with the surrounding countryside. If, by good fortune or good planning, one lives on enough acreage that viewing a neighbor's house is not an issue, there is still the benefit of having the home tucked away out of sight, part of the earth around it. Having never been the type to build a "impressive" home, I am more intersted in staying out of sight and being left alone. I enjoy the woods and wildlife. Mike Oehler shows us how to build a home that lets me do just that.
212 of 233 people found the following review helpful
2.0 out of 5 stars
keep in mind, helpful hints,
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: The Fifty Dollar and Up Underground House Book (Paperback)
Here are some helpful hints to keep in mind from a retired Pirate Builder who has also previously spent two decades in legit construction for the gentry. I have nothing to sell and no axe to grind. I just wish to share, to motivate and to support you to best and right action. Since my view is somewhat different from Mike, the author of the book "The $50 and Up Underground House Book", I feel an obligation to explain why. If you feel moved, you have my consent to email this to others. I feel it is important for people beyond just those whom visit this site to have this opportunity for an informed decision about an area so important to their life. My back story is that while having a successful practice as a builder, I came to recognize the folly of those methods and the negative impact on the greater good. Thus, I quit and did a number of things differently in life. One such thing was a homestead, no power or running water lifestyle, often with animal motive power instead of machines. I have aesthetic and spiritual reasons for this as well as for recognizing a world that is about to cave in. I have also designed and built wooden sailboats for work and cruising in various nations and have been invited as a consultant to the National Maritime Museum. I have helped, and continue to help, people in many parts of the world to organize and find their way out of Babylon. I say all of this so you can get a sense of where I am coming from and my experience in this venue. I also wish to gain your confidence because I will propose a very different solution than the author and also show you how to LEGALLY BUILD what you might consider to be a Pirate Home, below the radar and with less total cost than the author proposes. I propose that many, many people stand by to receive you onto their land, if you are sincere. So, read on. In considering the author of the book, I appreciate many of his social concerns and some of his building ideas. I appreciate his pioneering into this issue. Yet I feel that he has gotten caught up in an agenda to put forward a certain design style that creates a lot of other liabilities. I encourage you to buy and read his book and to also consider these issues. I encourage you to plan for them because I would advise you to do differently than he advises. I feel that someone whom wants to build quickly, inexpensively and live easily for least total effort will benefit from considering a concept I call LTE, for least total expense/effort. Applied to owner building it looks like this: The main financial costs are the opportunity cost of losing income from the chosen lifestyle and how living this way influences you in an intangible way. For me and many others, the intangible benefits far outweigh the financial opportunity cost and we actually prefer the benefit of not pooping into the common system of sewage and contaminating ground water, nor using toxic construction methods and carrying the guilt of supporting what is inappropriate to support. Mostly I am glad to be out of Babylon. If you want Out, it is paramount to consider your Total Effort over the long haul. By example, if scrounged materials appear free and digging a huge pit by hand appears free, compare that to doing a bit of compensated labor prior to the project. Consider it you can apply this benefit to getting yourself out of the hole, so to speak. More to the point of the author's book, I suggest you consider the value of alternatives to digging a pit and living in it. I do not mean to degrade his offering. I feel that I am simply saying what it is, as he also agrees what it is. The "up hill patio" is the name for the pit. He spends a lot of time trying to justify and tends to avoid real solutions to the contrary by a pen-stroke, writing them off as mere "first thought" ideas. While his self proclaimed "approved method" has some merits in a very small percentage of applications, I suggest you consider other options. In most situations, the uphill patio concept is a huge labor drain in both the short term and also in the long term. He goes on to suggest "foyers" and other adaptations, which in his own words are to maintain the purity of the existence of the front patio, while migrating away from it. I suggest you punt on this and put your focus on a different field of discussion. Keep the principles which are forthcoming in mind so that you, in your creativity, come up with a flavor that is what you can and want to live with. If you feel the need for a book on construction, then it may suppose that you will benefit from me explaining my position by including some information about building. In this way you can understand the principals and come up with your own conclusions. So let's proceed: If you are truly underground it means that the house is nominally about 50 degrees. This is an often cited advantage of going below. However it is not even close to being "just" an issue of heating it 20 degrees for comfort at an ambient 70 degrees. You are having to heat up the essentially infinite heat sink of the surrounding earth and it is not particularly good at storing and returning this to you. The earth is also trying to suck the heat out of you, being about twice its nominal temperature at nearly 100 degrees. So the "savings" of the seemingly 20 degree differential is not what it appears by a long shot. This gets especially significant if a person uses lots of scrounged single pane windows and uses an inefficient stove damp wood. So let's begin by understanding that the underground/earth berm method has a lot of liabilities along with its benefits in terms of temperature control, the heat sink of the earth being a really big deal that isn't going away. Going underground for the 50 nominal degree benefit makes a lot of sense IF you are trying to do it the same way that the Vietnamese did for low signature reasons during the French and US occupation. In order to do this you have to live in a true cave and to minimize airflow if on the scale of a house instead of a major cave and cavern system. In the tropics, the outside air temperature is not like in the zone in which you are likely to be contemplating construction. In your case, the cold air comes in on a wintery day and now it adds to the need for your stove to heat that along with the infinity of the earth walls which are sucking heat from you as well. The moisture in the air also condenses on a lot of things like carpet, being on the low and cooler level and in contact with the floor, causing mold and rot. Yet, if you constrain airflow you don't even have to heat at all; just wear a sweater and live below without supplementary heat. It is not easy, nor healthy, but it can be done with consequences, at least for a while. I say this because in the future, you may need to do this; so keep it in mind. Since what you are likely to want is to have a home and not just a house, you will want light and heat to grow things, dry out laundry, cook food; for general joy and health, etc. Since we want windows, heat containment (either in or out) is a matter of high priority. Unfortunately too many people suppose that they ought to make the house "air tight" to do so. This is a losing battle since to bottle one's self up in the house is exactly why lots of people are sick and sick of being so. It is like a fish living in a dirty water fish-bowl with a lid on top. Don't bite on the hook of trying to make a house air tight. It is at best naive, though possibly well intentioned. However, the main thrust of the publicity and funding therefore is by the man and his accountant who sells toxic building materials, medical intervention and war for energy, etc. Sometimes it is hard to shake off this indoctrination since most books and folks say you ought to stop air flow. They are wrong. Accept this going in and that in a "underground house" you are not going to get all of the thermal benefits supposed. Moreover, in order to mitigate a lot of potential problems, you want to encourage air flow. I say this early so you can shed that skin as we progress. I have enjoyed living in partially underground houses myself but I do not confuse this with being an truly underground house, which is is a cave. By my definition, the author of the book does not have an underground house either; he has a pit in the ground with a partially imbedded structure, a lot of windows and has chosen to face it up hill. This requires a very deep and large pit in order to get light into the structure in high latitudes. If you have much slope or trees above, well you can see the compounded problem. For those whom have not lived with nature, please consider what it implies when he states that he goes several times a day out in the rain to bail out his front patio. This is a patio for which a whole potential mountain is above, and the patio is below natural grade. It takes steps to get down to the bottom of this pit and the structure. Get the picture? The water will flood the house in most soil types, just as it does with his. His is not draining of its own natural accord. By definition the slope is saturated and both the house and the pit are going to have pressure to slide down hill since the floor of the pit is saturated. There is a lot of water in the ground and there is no practical way to make a drain for this since there is a mountain above it and the pit itself if below grade. Yes, you could engineer a real good storm drain system. But it is not the intent of either the author or myself to put forward an unaffordable, high tech solution and for which you are essentially guaranteed to have interference from the man. In fact, even with the uphill patio, he has still had significant distortion pressures on his house. The main thrust of his book is how to avoid that from happening. My exception to his presentation is that he adamantly states that his is the only way, by inference, if not directly. I would like you to be fully informed of an other approach and which is has greater merit. I am not in any way competing with him, nor would I even respond to any communication from him or others to joust about the issue. It is plain enough here for you to get it in the main and decide for yourself. Like many people, I don't want to dig that much dirt or to bail water or shovel the snow that slides down a mountain into my front yard and blocks my very limited view to a pit wall; nor to make this something to work around. Maybe you do not want to either. Start out with requiring a view and not yielding from this point. Understand that to get a view you must be on top of a peak, or on a slope; or on very flat terrain in an unobstructed position. Set aside the flat ground option, for which going underground has dubious value compared to bringing the "ground" above grade, such as with cob construction. You have a choice of building on a raised platform, or to cut into the slope and have a partially imbedded structure. Ain't other choices, so take your pick. Either is like living in nature instead of insulating from nature. You get a view, and you get to condone your intuition that it really does feel better for most people to live with that. The goal is to make the house a home and this home like nature, to have a sense of flow, just like the best part of you and your life. A partially imbedded structure has a lot of merits in being grounded and more "natural", regardless of any other benefits. It allows you to have a less air-tight structure and still meet reasonable thermal requirements. This scores well for least use of toxic materials in general. To most of the paints and caulks and carpets and emfs and radon and etc, just say no. And, with due respect, just say no to living without an intuitive sense of place and view. Doing what feels right is a good reason to build in the dirt, with a sunny view, with wood, more or less, and with lots of air flow. Not sheet rock, concrete, processed this n' that and with your back facing the down slope. I am aware of no animal in nature who intentionally does this. This is every bit as important to your total welfare as any other element; that you chose and took responsibility for sorting out how and why you do what you do. Be certain to consider that in addition to labor, view, cost and drainage benefits, that the shape of the home also allows for automatic air flow to mitigate mold and rot, very real hazards and concerns. I would not personally use wall to wall carpet if only for health reasons, not just because living a rural life is mostly contrary to carpet usefulness. You can much more easily lay down the poly on the earth sub floor and then lay down a wood floor of simple, cheap wood; or any number of other options instead. I talk about wood because it is easy, cheap, natural and smells good. It is also renewable and not made of oil. If you must have a sense of carpet, use non toxic area rugs that you can shake outside just like grandma and most of the world does still today. In his book the author says he spent a long, long time trying to level out his floor for direct contact carpet. Even then he says it was not satisfactory. And there is going to be mold in it, no doubt. Think this through for yourself and this as well: Consider that, today in June of 2012 one can go to a local lumber yard in the Pacific Northwest and buy 2x8 inch tongue and groove lumber for 50 cents a linear foot. It makes a great floor and the rest of the house as well. If you are good with numbers applied to this issue, you will realize how incredibly cheap this option is. I actually went there myself to verify this prior to writing this article. What that means is for a home of 500 square feet, the total floor costs only about $500 for all of the framing and the finish floor as well! If you buy the carpet, you are going to spend a whole lot more and you buy a lot of trouble as well. What IF there is a pin prick in the poly, if only due to an animal that does it or a root that takes to the route of least soil compression? Also to the point, it takes only about a day, maybe two for a couple of people to lay this down. More importantly, this wood floor can conceal a lot of things you want, secret things with frequent access, or to route plumbing. Most importantly it can be used to make the structure much, much more resistant to distortion from the shifting hill side. As a wooden boat builder, I have to build a house that is required to float and to do so in a constant earthquake of motion from the sea. I feel satisfied that I can recognize strong joints and structure. You want a floor system that keeps the posts from pushing in on the bottom; the recipe below allows for this while a directly laid carpet floor does not. It also allows for a much stronger structure throughout. This same material can be used for shoring on essentially the whole house and to build the roof as well. Figure about a dollar a square foot for each surface. You can see, that even today, you can build a house cheap, quick and wonderful if you want to. You can finance simply by the joy of camping out instead of renting for a few months. It IS that inexpensive to do. Easy, too. I want to share something also important that apparently was not covered in the book. This is the issue of posts and the method to keep them from rotting. Do yourself a favor and fore go all of the treatment methods, including charring with fire. Just get a few poles that are not going to rot in the first place and which do not require poison or fire to do so. For instance, up until a few years ago, it was code approved to use cedar or redwood for direct ground contact in most posts and foundations. Since you only need a few posts for a correctly designed structure, this is an easy bridge to cross, not a mystery to solve. The smart money does this: Get or cut some yew wood posts or any other type of post that farmers have used for centuries and which are known to last for over 50 years in open exposure, including ground contact. The posts will outlast your life and that of the house more than likely. So, too in most root cellar applications. No poison, concrete and free. If they don't grow on site, make a trip to get some, you will be glad for doing this. I once built in the South, and I had property owners begging me to cut these pole size trees off of their pasture edges. I went out with my draft horse and skidded them amongst the fondest appreciation you might imagine. You will find that by going on this type of egg hunt, you will make life long relationships with those in the vicinity whom will mutually cover for each other in a myriad of ways important to living as you intend to live. Granny will teach you what you might not know; pa will take you in to the inner circle and you will get immunity from the man, more or less. In assessing LTE, add that to the mix and keep in mind that it is a much better strategy for most people to not go on grid, nor to use much power at all. This is the key to staying out of the interest of the man. In many places, a small solar panel and a single battery will give you all you need to run your lap top, phone etc, if you use these. You would do well to have the panel inside the greenhouse so you don't leave a signature outside. Don't take the bait and get a fancy windmill or heaven knows what and then have the code enforce take control and sequentially get you to remain in Babylon, in his codes, banks, his schools etc. He will come running with his latte in hand, a red tag and you will never be able to try again without cause for concern. Many people STILL manage a very healthy life throughout the world without these things. If you have not traveled, even, say to the rural South in this nation, you would not know this because the man paints a different picture to sell you down and sell his wares. You probably will continue to drive a vehicle; just put a second battery in it and draw power off of it for the house, etc. If you really want some AC ability for construction or to juice up the 12 volt once in a while, many use a small generator that costs about $300. But don't go on grid, and don't use much power at all, that is where the cost and rot sets in. Save yourself the trauma of doing these two mistakes: One is to "hook up" with the man and the grid; the other is to likewise hook up with the man and try to be a tech nerd in the woods. Don't spend a zillion on trying to keep high tech fridge, etc, afloat so you can play virtual reality instead of the real thing. People are designed to chop wood and carry water. To avoid that is spiritual pollution and you will find out that tech won't make your stay pleasant in the long run; in fact it mitigates against getting the fruit you long for. I say this because I am preparing you in this article how to LEGALLY build what you consider to be a Pirate Home. To do so takes some lateral thinking for some readers. For the rest, it probably just takes knowing that a lot of us have pulled this off, for real, and how. It really IS easier to carry water, to chop and carry, and to live beyond the grid not just off of it. Understand the difference. I personally know 80 year old people who do this and they cite this as the REASON why they are able to still do so at this point in life. One of these guys has a handshake that would literally crush the bones of some readers. His wife, is the type of person that all can respect, knowledgeable in ways that matter, tough as nails and smooth as silk. And, I might add, both of immense faith, compared to some. The design I propose gives most people all of their own water just for, well, being there, instead of needing a well. If you don't already know, it is comfortable to live on something like 5 gallons a person day for cooking, drinking, sanitation and washing. Ten gallons is a luxury. It is much easier to live like this than it is to build, pay for and keep running the alternative. The design below has no well, no "spring" in the normal sense and no contract with the man. It is YOURS and no one can mess with it, nor even know you have it. It is integrated into the alternative presented in the "recipe". Keep this in mind: The UBC, which is the code to which essentially every state in the nation and much of the rest of the world are expected to comply, allows for certain structures to be build outside of code under local zoning laws. Trust me on this, I used to make a living doing this! The key is this, these structures must not be "habitable" and not have power, heat or running water. Yet, most counties, even in Oregon where the land use laws in rural zones are draconian, allow for small square footage structures to be built without permits nor inspection nor zoning interference. In Oregon, by example, you can build an essentially infinite number of 200 square foot or structures with less than 10 foot eave height. You read that right. If you do NOT have an air tight stove, than you are exempt from EPA regulations. You read that right. That should be proof enough that the laws are primarily for the purpose of supporting financial interests for stove makers, not for air quality issues. Since you will use a non-approved, but nonetheless incredibly efficient stove, you are both in the moral right and legal right. You can legally use non-approved stove, believe it or not, under the EPA but not maybe in the man's code approved habitable structure. In order to use such a stove in a green house, well, check the local issues; most of the time this becomes something that the county can not nor will not go after. Gee, people use open burn barrels for their trash. What about where you live since you do not "live" in the structure. Well, in Oregon, you do not have to have a physical address to be a legal resident. Yes, you read that right. You can be what is known as a "continuous traveler" under their law, and this status must be accepted in every state of the union as it is the legal address on your primary ID, your driver's license. There is nothing remotely subversive about doing this, lots of snow birds have reasons for this status and use it. The DMV complies simply enough if you just follow the dots. You do not even have to file taxes nor have any property in ownership to do it, in Oregon nor elsewhere. You do not even have to be a US citizen. You read that right. It makes it interesting, to say the least, for people to serve you their ice cream for activities on a piece of land that you do not own nor live on. In most counties, even now in 2012, you can build a reasonable size structure without UBC compliance on land with any material you want short of an obvious hazard such as toxic waste. So, make the most of it and get going, using sound consideration of LTE while you can. It is only when you want to do what you ought not do, namely, to live in Babylon, that you set the wheels in motion of owner/builder travails. An early test of this is if you try to live with too large a foot print. Providence does not like that, but has let a way exist for you to live reasonably until for just this little while until that is shut down. In Oregon, the threshold is 200 square feet under the solid roof as in many places. You can build an essentially infinite number of these without the building code nor planning approval nor zoning restrictions. So, if you can't find peace in that, well, you are not likely to find it. It is easy enough to live well with these parameters. For instance, since it is really lovely to work in a greenhouse and its shed year round, even sometimes at night. In some places, like in parts of the South, or the Oregon outback, no one comes knocking anyways, unless you invite them to. So there, people are often found late at night in a barn instead of a shed, tending to their chickens, etc. You can even be found washing off from the exertion, incinerating brush in a container, etc. Just not with an EPA stove and well and drain field, OK? As someone who has lived happily and comfortably on a sailboat in places as various as the tropics and anchored for free off of San Francisco, I can share that 200 square feet is plenty of space with the whole of nature outside of my cabin. Ditto for shore side if you design it so that nature is visible and halfway into the house as well. So, if you start with the premise of needing air flow then you can see the smarts of going small for heating, cost, time in construction and unwanted conflict. This is the first design criteria. Compliance with the man is your choice; but how you handle this will best work by getting the first one right. It is my premise that it is the only way it will work. More importantly, it is easier to live in a small space and to find yourself in the vastness of the interior dimensions it opens up. The small exterior dimensions invite you to explore what you are here for. I have often felt sorry for guys who live in a house so large that his wife is in another room most of the time; perhaps in a kitchen and he might be slugging it out with the man at a thing called a job just to pay for their isolation from each other. And since so busy, the kids are being indoctrinated by the man who is their primary parent and tells them all that God is not allowed in that school, work place and day care. If you don't like the idea of the level of ethics and intimacy that comes from close living and being responsible for you and your family, then it is exactly why you will benefit from being able to live small; and in reality instead of an imitation thereof. Once you realize that, and that you are meant to chop and carry, the light really goes on and Providence makes the way for those out of Babylon. Since you are not going underground ala Vietnam, but are doing some sort of berm buffered, "loose" house with lots of windows, you are really needful of having your solar gain and supplementary heat worked out. This is, unless you live in a glorious stilt house over an estuary in the tropics; which takes about a week to build and a single paycheck for most readers of this letter. It takes about one day of your labor to pay for a month's right to reside in that zone. No you don't get to shovel snow, but you do get other benefits of the similar seasons. Indeed it makes you wonder about digging in the dirt, huh? If you prefer the temperate or frigid zones, then heat is the big issue along with more labor and more cash. And more design study of LTE. Take this one on the nose and get it right from the start. I used to have a stove just like Mike's in a house I lived in. Same model since it came that way, I did not chose it intentionally. Soon found out that many other options are better, like a rocket stove etc. A rocket stove is so efficient, and only costs about a 100 bucks to build that it makes sense to expect that it leaves a very small smoke signature and it is not EPA approved. Instead of figuring out how to process all of the free bananas around your eternally warm home perched over crystal water, you will instead consider how you will get, process and store the fuel and how it will get into your stove. Instead of considering the bugs in the tropics, you will consider the bugs on your cell phone. So before you get techno starved, start with the chop and carry. Your are not best served by stairs and a pit and dampness for the supply of wood for which you have little room within and for which you must come in and out to fetch through snow. Makes an attached green solar kiln a good idea, to many. Here is a "recipe" for building consideration outside of the tropics. Build facing downhill and south (for northern readers). Put a "green house" on the front wall facing down hill with a rock backing or similar to hold solar gain. You could put a log wall of yew poles here, they virtually do not rot and they are really dense for heat storage and transfer. Or use another good idea. Have this be a low wall, called a "pony wall" in the business, so that the green house is actually part of the front room of the house and it makes a backstop for the kitchen counter and a wonderful view. You don't need a sink per se, toss it out onto next weeks dinner growing within arms reach. Or, put in a sink if you just have to have one. If you do not plumb water into it, it is not "a sink" at law. Then enjoy the benefits of your co2 exchange with the benefits of the o2 from the plants and the good vibes of having it in house. Enjoy that the glass will mostly always be free of condensation due to the air flow in the house and the heat and the fact that you build small enough to afford some used dual pane patio slider blems for glazing. You might even put a tub here and take a warm soak with the snow blowing outside and enjoy a massage or book. Aside from the clear call to help readers out of Babylon, what really prompted this article for me, is that there are many good ways to mitigate drainage issues and downslope slide of the structure that the author does not cover in his book. My preferred recipe looks like this: Build the house as a Hexagon structure, with six sides, just like bees do. Put one "pointy" end to the uphill side. Use the wood and poly type method. Put a French drain near ground level and one at footing level as well. This is as simple as using 4 inch perforated drain pipe, a bit of gravel and some black sun screen fabric like used in nurseries. You can even skip the gravel in many cases. It takes about half a day of labor to do this, including sourcing the materials. And it is your water supply. You have a whole mountain of a watershed for your benefit and this free and invisible well doubles purpose to keep your house from sliding down hill by ground saturation. The pointy end of the house uphill does several things. You are almost guaranteed not to have a drainage problem because all water runs past the slanted angle of the wall to slope and and down slope, the path of least resistance. You are doing the same thing that the bows of a boat do to part the seas. This also parts the slope itself, should it try to slide. It does NOT crush the building since the path of least resistance is around it. The pointy end acts like a wedge and the slope moves around it, if it moves at all. The fact is, when you excavate a triangle in the slope like this, the apex, or point, does not want to slide downhill anyways. This is preferred to excavating a box shape. The "legs" of the triangle shaped excavation tend to hold it in place. Probably someone has published about this, but I am unaware of this applied to this venue. Once you build the outside structure of the house, frame off a partition on the back wall of the house so that from the interior you do not live with a wedge, but with a flat wall with a window above. Within this back wall, in the secret roof and piece of the "pie" it contains, put your water storage and your root cellar. Creative minds will put a couple of simple vents to the top using a stove pipe or other appropriate shafts. Thus things will not tend to rot. Also, by use of an evaporative cooler principal of a wick in the vent, you can keep things cooler than even the 50 degrees or so of nominal temperature for a "fridge". Thus you now have refrigeration accessible from the interior of the house. This can be your safe room as well. Use the front "pointy end" of the Hex house to face the down slope with big windows on the outboard side to take in the sun and your view. Take care to make the roof overhang work with the declination of the sun for your region, so the summer stays out and the winter sun comes in. Put a pony wall here and the plants in front. Wood stove too if you want. Nice view of wood burning, view for miles, plants within and snow without. Your weekly wood storage can be in this solar oven, drying out and holding gain for your plants. The "point" is this: Use a hex facing downhill. It is absurdly easy to do and infinitely stronger than the unsecured framing specified in the book. This eliminates the need to excavate a pit and live in one, facing up hill. You get all the benefits that can reasonably be accomplished short of going in
37 of 38 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars
Very readable and instructive!!!,
By A Customer
This review is from: The Fifty Dollar and Up Underground House Book (Paperback)
I bought this book in 1978 and was absolutley facinated and somewhat skeptical. These homes are everything the author claims. (Built one in 1980-81) The biggest problem was with inspectors as Mike said. With very little mechanicle skills you can have a practical, spacious and livable home. Looking forward to Mikes next publication!
73 of 81 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars
Great Book,
This review is from: The Fifty Dollar and Up Underground House Book (Paperback)
This book is excellent. I've wanted a copy for years, but now-a-days, it's very hard to find. I recommend it to everyone, provided you keep in mind the circumstances of rural Idaho. One person noted with horror the keeping of loaded guns (can be seen in the background of one of the photos). Don't forget Idaho
is bear country. And there is a bit of editorializing, but rural folk do that; you get used to it. I don't fully agree with the earth flooring, unless you were really trying to economize. Rather, I like the idea of laying down plywood under the carpeting, but not nailing it down - it's still moveable if you need to reach your piping, and it can move with the house if it shifts, but there's less settling than carpet/earth. I can't believe carpet/earth doesn't become lumpy eventually. The one thing missing (maybe it'd be better in another book), is a biography of Mike. How did he come by his acreage in Idaho. Did he spend all his money on land and have none for a house? How did he survive all these years, farming/hunting? A person still need cash for taxes and such. His books and his lecturing brings in a little money; does he do anything else? I'd be interested in knowing how to start a lecture circuit, or self publish a book. I think there's an audience for this kind of practical information.
22 of 22 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars
What a great book!,
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: The Fifty Dollar and Up Underground House Book (Paperback)
I was amazed by this book. Not only does it provide plenty of details, but it is easy for anyone to understand.
Some other reviews comment on some of Mike's opinions. You have to remember, the world of the 70's was a lot different from today. No Political Correct bull! It was common for national magazines to get off on the ranting of the turbulent times. This doesn't distract from the book though, and I personally think it adds a bit of character to the book. If you have ever thought of building an underground house, or getting away from the commercialism in modern society, this is the book for you. This is a must for the homesteader's library. If I could ask for other things in this book, it would be a bigger description of the newer building methods in the update section. Also, some more three dement ional drawings of the inside of the houses. You can figure out what's going on but sometimes you have to study the perspective drawings and pictures a bit. I agree with another reviewer, a biography would be nice. Great book, you will not be disappointed!
29 of 31 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars
Beyond 5 Stars--Inspirational, Valuable, Practical,
By Robert David STEELE Vivas (Oakton, VA United States) - See all my reviews (HALL OF FAME REVIEWER) (TOP 1000 REVIEWER)
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: The Fifty Dollar and Up Underground House Book (Paperback)
This book is phenomenally wise, useful, easy to read, and plain inspiring. I picked it up this morning intending to get back to it tonight and ended up not putting it down at all.
I have bought and read a number of underground building books as well as log cabin books, and would sort them into three categories: A Expensive log homes for the really rich B Moderate earth-covered (not quite underground) homes for the middle C This book, for those who truly want to integrate innovation and low cost with deep Earth comfort and resilience and all the good stuff that goes with it. This book, in short, is in a class of its own. Most will notice that it was first offered in 1978. As the USA goes through a major financial crisis that proves nothing has changed--Wall Street and the two "parties" it has bought down to their lost souls are still here, still looting the commonwealth--this book proves that it is timeless. There is indeed a great deal of land across this great country where one can still afford to "dig in," and this could not be a better time to be thinking about renting what you have now in the close in fragile areas, and setting up alternative housing with adjacent land for a basic Life Garden. As I went through each chapter I found the list of materials, the prices, the diagrams, and the text all coherent, concise, and totally "on target." Black and white photographs throughout, and a handful of color photographs in the middle, round the book out. The book ends by discreetly recommending a tape series on design as the key element for success, and one that professional architects generally overlook (as we are all learning, the "experts" in finance and other areas are really "credentialed" but NOT experts). I LIKE THIS BOOK. As an afterthought, it is recommended by just about every major alternative living, green energy, and sanity outpost (Vermont, Oregon, Washington State) reviewer. This book is a "good deal" and inspiring to boot.
20 of 20 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars
A Classic!,
By Kyle B. "baubo" (Idaho) - See all my reviews
This review is from: The Fifty Dollar and Up Underground House Book (Paperback)
Mike is an original thinker/curmudgeon. Everyone interested in building with natural materials should study his ideas. His DVD set is more complete than this book and incorporates 25 years of experience building this way. Get them both. The only other natural material, owner-builder books of this profundity are: Ken Kern's "The owner built home" and the gorgeous treatise on building with cob, "The hand-sculpted house." Most people would do well to combine techniques and materials to fit your site, materials available and tastes.
31 of 35 people found the following review helpful
1.0 out of 5 stars
Title attractive but content disappointing.,
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
This review is from: The Fifty Dollar and Up Underground House Book (Paperback)
This book disappoints. The idea of an underground home, maybe even an underground mansion/castle is very attractive primarily because of the presumed ease of care, maintenance, drastic low electricity needs, and the stability of structure in a natural disaster. For people like me, the idea & title of the book = is right up the alley. However, as this particular book was created and published in the 70's, of the few photos it has they're old dark, overexposed black&white photos that aren't very helpful - I want to see better photos that capture ideas in detail [a picture is worth a thousand words], the book is unprofessionally written and unfocused, replete with personal political and social agendas and attacks. This book assumes that most folks who are interested in underground dwellings are going to scavenger for nails / lumber / and or live in the rockies etc, and will not require hired labor or concrete in unstable soils. It also lacks the charts, graphs, cost comparisons for various models and material. This is an enthusiast's essay in the form of a book, I credit the author with that, he brought the idea to light when no one talked about this type of a dwelling in the US. I will still keep this copy at home just for off chance need for ideas or reference. But, perhaps other books can serve this purpose better.
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The Fifty Dollar and Up Underground House Book by Mike Oehler (Paperback - December 1, 1981)
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Rough-and-tumble schedule awaits Clemson in 2015 By Aaron Brenner Thursday, January 29, 2015 5:46 p.m.
Baseball: Clemson strength coach takes job with Denver Broncos By Aaron Brenner Thursday, January 29, 2015 3:24 p.m. CLEMSON – Dennis Love, who served as Clemson's director of Olympic sports strength and conditioning the past five years, has accepted a ...
Clemson's leading hitter last year promises cleaner defense, recovery from shoulder surgery By Aaron Brenner Wednesday, January 28, 2015 8:06 p.m.
Sapakoff: Deflategate lessons from the way Clemson, South Carolina handled The Brawl By Gene Sapakoff Wednesday, January 28, 2015 5:36 p.m.
Clemson football fans don't mess around, win 2014 GameDay Recycling Challenge By Aaron Brenner Tuesday, January 27, 2015 5:35 p.m.
C.J. Spiller awaits "March Madness" should he test free agency By Aaron Brenner Monday, January 26, 2015 7:10 p.m. CLEMSON — Clemson North, otherwise known in this part of the country as the Buffalo Bills, fortified its reputation when Rex Ryan (the father ...
Former Clemson freshman All-American suffers setback in his knee By Aaron Brenner Monday, January 26, 2015 5:24 p.m.
Clemson backup forward's layup sinks Wake Forest By Aaron Brenner Saturday, January 24, 2015 6:48 p.m.
Clemson's Jack Leggett optimistic about 2015 baseball season, but pressure is on veteran coach By Aaron Brenner Friday, January 23, 2015 5:41 p.m.
Inside the Game: Wake Forest at Clemson By Aaron Brenner Friday, January 23, 2015 1:33 p.m. Wake Forest at Clemson
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Town Square
Impact of a single bullet
Original post made on May 22, 2008
John Edward Farmer probably didn't have enough time to register the muzzle flash before the bullet struck him dead. Nobody's talking about who might have pulled the trigger, although family and friends talk about the man and the loss they feel. Photos by Veronica Weber and David Cenzer/Palo Alto Weekly.
Read the full story here Web Link posted Tuesday, May 20, 2008, 3:38 PM
Comments (2)
a resident of another community
on May 22, 2008 at 9:30 am
i wish someone will come forth...i am sure someone knows SOMETHING out there. like my grandmother said, "I just pray that before I die I find out who did it." and so do i.
a resident of East Palo Alto
on May 22, 2008 at 5:32 pm
As me being a relative, mu uncle will be well missed but never forgotten. He will be with me in my heart forever. And I can say this that when enough of us loose our loved one's, then we want to do something about it, let's wake up and come together now and bring all this madness to an end, before it hit's your home. I have lived in EPA for 30+ years and never have I seen so much hatred and greed. My heart hurts for both sides the victim and the assulter, cause there are two lives that are lost. Come on you guys wake up!
Prayer works if nothing else.
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Rockslide continues
DENVER — Corey Dickerson's leadoff triple off the right-field wall in the ninth inning ended badly for the Colorado Rockies, emblematic of the team's rough stretch.
The throw from center fielder Carlos Gomez got past third baseman Aramis Ramirez and Dickerson, after briefly hesitating, ran for home — only to stumble and fall, allowing Ramirez to chase down the ball and easily throw him out at the plate. The sequence helped the Milwaukee Brewers hang on to beat the Rockies 6-5 Sunday and complete a series sweep.
"He's a hard-working player and a crazy thing just happened, kind of unfortunate, but that's baseball for you," Rockies teammate Charlie Culberson said.
It was the second time in as many games that a freakish play figured prominently in a loss for the Rockies, who have lost six in a row overall. In Saturday's 9-4 loss, the Brewers scored three of their runs on a bases-loaded wild pitch by Christian Friedrich and a subsequent throwing error by catcher Mike McKenry.
"We just have to keep fighting, keep fighting for wins," Rockies manager Walt Weiss said.
The Rockies did go down swinging.
They were trailing 6-4 when Dickerson tripled off closer Francisco Rodriguez to start the ninth. Hustling all the way, Dickerson slid into third well ahead of Gomez's throw. He jumped to his feet when he saw the ball rolling slowly toward the Brewers dugout but staggered midway down the line and fell. By the time he scrambled to his feet and headed home, catcher Jonathan Lucroy had the ball and applied the tag.
"It's just a tough break," Weiss said. "He was going to score on that play. His legs gave out and he stumbled there between third and home. He went real hard from home to third, saw he had an opportunity to score and he stumbled, that's all."
Wilin Rosario, who had four hits, followed the Dickerson play by homering to get the Rockies within a run. But Rodriguez came back to fan pinch-hitter Ryan Wheeler and induce a game-ending groundout by Culberson for his 25th save.
Ramirez homered and drove in two runs for the Brewers to support a solid start from Kyle Lohse (9-2).
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FOX Soccer Exclusive
Arsenal out to prove themselves
Top of the Premier League, basking in the glory of an Arsenal goal scored by Jack Wilshere in a 4-1 victory over Norwich City on Saturday – that would bear comparison with anything fashioned by Pep Guardiola's Barcelona at their peak – so surely Arsene Wenger can feel all the pressure lifting from his shoulders now? With Borussia Dortmund heading for north London on Champions League business, it's doubtful.
Yes, it's true that Arsenal's revival seemed to date from the night they went to Germany seven months ago and recovered some pride with a 2-0 victory over Bayern Munich that meant they exited the competition only on away goals, against the side who were destined to win it. But bear in mind the slaughter that had preceded the trip to Bavaria. Only 3-1 at the Emirates; that's what the main stat said. But Wenger's Arsenal were shown to be out of their class that night, proven unfit for any serious European purpose.
Wenger doesn't want them to look like that on Tuesday when Borussia, losers to Bayern in a classic final at Wembley last season, come calling. Especially as the visitors' characterful coach, Jurgen Klopp, was one of those most frequently mentioned as a possible successor to Wenger when the heat was on and the critics on the Emirates slopes were counting the years since Arsenal had landed a trophy, imploring him to spend some money on new players or – at least by implication – quit.
Although the encouraging night in Munich eased the situation slightly, more or less the same squad began this season with a home defeat by Aston Villa, and the pressure returned with a vengeance. Then Wenger did spend. He paid $65 million for Mesut Ozil and it was like the curtains opening on a beautiful spring day. Not only did Ozil burst instantly into flower – the whole team seemed to gain confidence from the signing of the elegant and wonderfully unselfish German.
Jack Wilshere and Oliver Giroud have found their scoring touch with Arsenal. (Photo: Paul Gilham/Getty)
To give Aaron Ramsey his due, the young Welsh midfielder was already showing signs of a riotous form that continued with yet another classic goal against Norwich. But to have Ozil sharing responsibility with him is clearly a joy, and on Saturday the whole midfield joined in the party. Wilshere completing his recovery from injury with the final touch of a bewilderingly intricate move that also involved that fine technician Santi Cazorla and main striker Olivier Giroud, whose use of Ozil's service has possibly been the most dramatic of all.
Giroud didn't score against Norwich – Ozil got the two that haven't been mentioned so far, and they were extremely easy on the eye too – but the names on the electronic board mattered less than the flowing beauty on the pitch. This was life as the Emirates used to know it before stars like Cesc Fabregas and Robin van Persie started to head for the exit. As Fabregas grimaced through Barcelona's scoreless game with Osasuna in Pamplona, and Van Persie's goal proved inadequate to carry Manchester United to victory over Southampton at Old Trafford, Wenger savored a performance that contained everything he has ever worked for.
All he asked the players afterwards was not to get into a "comfort zone." That, we assume, will be his theme before the Dortmund game. Although they are well placed to qualify for the knockout stages after wins over Olympique Marseille and Napoli, back-to-back defeats by Klopp's Borussia would suggest that their progress is less substantial than it has been pretty thus far.
While Dortmund head for London, Chelsea will be heading out – to Germany, to face Schalke, buoyed like Arsenal by a 4-1 win at home in the Premier League. Chelsea's success was against promoted Cardiff, who left Stamford Bridge bitterly and justly complaining about the first goal they conceded.
They were leading through a goal for which David Luiz was responsible – the Brazilian's crazy dummy let Jordon Mutch run through and score – when Cardiff goalkeeper David Marshall tried to bounce the ball only to have it flicked away from him by Samuel Eto'o, after which Eden Hazard put it in the net.
That's a free-kick to Cardiff under the laws, for the goalkeeper is deemed to have the ball under his control if he bounces it, but referee Anthony Taylor explained to a seething Cardiff coach, Malky Mackay, afterwards that he and his assistants thought Marshall had just dropped the ball.
You might think it a bad error – and Taylor is likely to be asked to sit at least one game out by the League as a punishment. But you might also wonder why the ref can't get a bit of video assistance in such situations. Blame the conservatism of FIFA. And don't have too much sympathy for the English Premier League, whose much-trumpeted introduction of goal-line technology at the start of the season addressed something that hardly ever needs attention. Referees need proper help. But don't ask me when it will happen.
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Builders, manufacturers and suppliers will showcase their newest and best beginning today at the 21st Annual North Florida Home Show.
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Bob Snyder, president of event promoter East Coast Shows Inc., says for any consumer planning a home fix-up, renovation or new house, the Home ...


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