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[edit 2-26-2014: thread titled changed, was Revision 2014: Mike R(mtbdudex) 2.35 Scope 130", 11.3 Audio DIY Home Theatre/Basement Thread"]
Ed Flower named my theater "The Envelope" ... I like it, never had a name before
[edit 1-23-2014: thread title changed, was "Ver 2.0 update: Mike R(mtbdudex) 2.35 Scope 130", 11.3 Audio DIY Home Theatre/Basement Thread"]
This to reflect updates to be done in CY14, based upon this thread, http://www.avsforum.com/t/1508987/what-are-your-new-years-a-v-resolutions/60#post_24154446
Real time 2014 calendar "punch list" post here, http://www.avsforum.com/t/1501211/using-invisible-fence-to-avoid-dog-jumping-onto-ht-screen-speaker-wire-interference#post_23985834
[edit 9-5-2010: thread title changed, was "Mike R DIY Home Theatre/Basement Thread (4yr proj done in 2008!)", but took 2 more years....]
I've been so busy lately there has been no time to make an "official" DIY thread for my walkout basement/HT project, however due to me getting a nasty case of carpal tunnel (more on that later) and the doctor injected both wrists with steroids so they heal, I've been "off the basement project" for the past two weeks, can "re-start" work on it this upcoming weekend (2/9).
Therefore, this is the official start of my basement/HT DIY project AVS forum thread!
(I've had some specific posts here and there over the past few months, they will be consolidated here)
We built our loghome and move in May-2002, here it is, front and back showing walkout view:
The plan was always to "someday" finish the basement, we had rough image of the basement put onto the original BluePrints, along with some of the floor drain plumbing for the bath was roughed in and capped at initial construction phase back in Aug-2001.
We have 3 kids; 6, 4, and 2, and a 85lb Black Lab named "Jedi". So Life has been very busy and very good, we are blessed with good healthy children.
Basement/HT DIY Project top level image:
We'd like to carry the loghome theme into the basement, and also include bright/bold colors in the rooms to harmonize with our 1 acre wildflower front yard, we have 2.12 acres total.
I'll try to have some log home feel inside the Home Theatre, yet realize the color scheme will need to be done based upon lighting dynamics as the main driver.
Here is basement layout, almost 1,300 sq feet includes:
-Full 9' high ceiling
-Craft room for my wife (11' x 12')
-Full 3rd bath
-4th Bedroom (12' x 14', nice for company)
-Huge walk in closet under the stairs
-Big openplay/rec room for kids/family activities (15' x 30'), includes refrig/sink/microwave area for snacks, lots of storage space for kids "stuff"
-Home Cinema room (14'6" x 18'6" ), I hate the usage of Man Cave for it, and Home Cinema is appropriate since I'm going 2.35:1 screen instead of 16:9 screen
-Utility room where the GeoThermal heat pump is and all mechanicals is isolated from the main basement area as shown in the layout.
Walkout layout has French doors for easy access/movement of stuff (that is west wall), while the craft room has 2 windows and the bedroom has 1 window, short wall is north facing.
I can control/manage the lighting pretty well in the home Cinema room, since it has no windows.
HT Layout(edit 2013, added 11.3 set-up ):
HT pictures (2013)
Screen shot:
Rear shot:
Basement layout:
This has been a 3+ year project for me, I only work on it Dec thru March, and even then just weekends, sometimes just 3-4 hours/weekend due to yound kids and busy schedule/etc.
Overall plan is I do everything except drywall.
The 4 year Timeline:
(this was never planned as a 4 year project, initial thought was two years, but life got busy)
-Dec 2004 thru March 2005: Plan & design, changed the stairs going into the basement from a "L" layout to a "U" layout, frame all the walls, tighten log wall rod spring system
-Dec 2005 thru March 2006; Bath copper plumbing, re-do shower drain (add P-trap)/partial HVAC runs (I ran both hot and cold air supply for each room reciric)
-Dec 2006 thru March 2007; Finish HVAC, foil sealed ALL seams on HVAC runs, built home theatre seat riser section, re-tighten log wall rod spring system, sealed bond areas
-Nov 2007; I installed new H20 softener system (gave up on my EcoSmarte system that had it's own thread in the S&V "Just Chat" section a few months back, EcoSmarte Whole Home H20 issue) and a RO system
-Dec 2007 thru Now (Feb 2008); Plan and did all Electrical (almost 2,000 feet of 14/2, 14/3, and 12/3 romex), ran 500 feet of 14/4 speaker wire for Home Cinema room + Zone 2 and Zone 3 speakers in rec room and Craft room, cables/Cat5 wire for Frt Proj/subwoofer ran, decide to add sink to rec room, cut concete floor and plumb for drain and supply, contracted drywall was started on 12/27/07 and they just finished Friday 1/18/08. We are just painting rooms now, I'm hooking up electrical sw/circuits.
-Jan 2008 thru Aug 2008; IB 4 x 15" line array subwoofer http://www.avsforum.com/t/1149303/usul-4-x-ae-ib15-line-array-ib-sub-mike-r-ht#post_16508390
Added timeline items:
-Dec 2010 thru June 2011 Acoustic treatments http://www.avsforum.com/t/1312693/diy-construction-methods-of-hang-able-acoustic-panels-not-fixed-frames
-Dec 2012 thru March 2013 11.3 Audio http://www.avsforum.com/t/1435778/moving-past-7-1-5-1-into-9-1-11-2-upgrade-your-ht-room-via-audysseydsx-dolbypl-iiz-dts-neo-x
-Dec 2012 thru April 2013 added 2 subwoofers http://www.avsforum.com/t/1446659/going-multi-sub-adding-diy-18-15-sub-to-4x15-ib-line-array-both-via-diy-sound-group-flatpack
My big picture is done by end of March/early April 2008, lots to do still:
-Paint all rooms
-Install 6 doors + 1 bi-fold door (pre-stain same as main home interior stain)
-Wood trim all doors/windows (pre-stain same as main home interior stain)
-connect all outlets/switches, connect the 10 new circuits (Home Runs!)
-install all elect fixtures/lighting
-Full concrete shower floor
-tile shower and bath floor, install shower glass, install plumbing fixtures
-install all cabinets/sink/toilet
-install drop ceiling over rec room (all other rooms have drywall ceiling, however so many mechanical runs are in rec room ceiling made sense to do drop ceiling there)
-Flooring; Cork in craft room and possible also big rec room, tile in bath, carpet in all other rooms
-Do my IB subwoofer install work (seperate thread I had on that)
-Then, install all my Home Cinema Gear (I'd doing that last as motivator to finish all the other stuff);
Equipment List:
Bought already:
Front Projector: Sony VPL-VW60,
Anamorphic lens: Panamorph Model UH380 Universal Anamorphic Lens (just bought B-stock!)
A/V: Denon AVR-4308CI
Speakers: 7.1 spkrs Paradigm Frt Monitor Series 9, Center CC-390, 4 Rear/back surrounds ADP-390.
(speakers/A/V and PJ bought from local shop in SE Michigan, http://www.avioinc.com/index.php )
Panamax M5300-PM for clean power.
Not bought yet:
Screen: 125"/tbd diag cinemawide screen
I've not bought a DVD of HiDef optical unit just yet, waiting for some more shakeout in the HD vs Blu wars to further drive prices down.
Here is Home Cinema front wall image:
Holy cow, after I typed the above realize still lots of work left, yet I can see the light coming closer to the end of the long-long 3+ year tunnel.
One nice thing, since I've been doing this in yearly phases everything was paid and installed ongoing, so I'm not in debt from the construction phase.
Plus, I've seen the Frt Proj technology change so much, going from 720p to 1080p with fantistic picture image and decent price points, and the HDMI spec has finally settled down, so all my A/V equipment is full 1.3 compliant.
I'll do a quick pictorial re-cap of the project over the next few days, and then I'll have some Q's for the AVS regulars, also hopefully others can gain some experience/insight into their own future projects from that.
Edited by mtbdudex - 2/26/14 at 3:10pm


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Building a Kick-Drum Mic out of a speaker...
By Gabe Herman
There is much written about this topic all over the web, and after studying a lot of pages, with a lot of great information, I thought I would give this project a shot and try to combine some of the things I've learned from my internet research with some of my own ideas and try to document my process as much as possible for others who might be interested in doing something similar.
For those who may not have come across this idea before, the concept is fairly straightforward. Mechanically speaking, there is not a whole lot of difference between a moving coil dynamic loudspeaker and a moving coil dynamic microphone. Both rely on the theory of electromagnetic transduction to convert voltage into sound, or sound into voltage. The theory states: "When a piece of conductive metal crosses an electromagnetic flux, then a corresponding voltage of a specific polarity and amplitude will be created within that metal".
Moving-coil loudspeakers are a great example of how this theory is used in audio applications. Typically, they are used to transform an electronic representation of sound (Audio) into something which can be heard (Sound). To simplify its basic working mechanism; A audio signal is sent to a coil of wire that is suspended around a permanent magnet. As the audio signal (voltage) changes from positive to negative (alternating current), the coil reacts by moving back and forth towards the various poles of the magnet that propagate the attracting force (negative to positive and visa-versa). The other end of this coil is attached to a diaphragm that is sometimes referred to as a cone or driver. As the coil moves from one pole to the next, it causes the air in front of and around the cone to either increase in pressure as it moves forward, or create a vacuum of pressure when the cone retreats backward. These oscillations in air pressure creates what we perceive as audible sound.
A dynamic microphone is essentially the same working-mechanism. The only difference is that a microphone is supposed to capture acoustic energy and transduce it into electrical audio signal. In this case the construction is more or less the same except that the diaphragm is much smaller than the cone of a typical loudspeaker. Disturbances in air pressure cause the diaphragm to move back and forth. Since the diaphragm is connected to the coil of wire, this causes the coil to move across the magnet thus creating alternating current in the coil.
Since there is no basic difference between a speaker an a microphone, then it stands to reason that one could take the place of another. (If you ever wish to be daring, you can experiment with this idea by hooking up the output of a pair of headphones into the input of a microphone pre-amp and speaking into one of the ears...D.J.s have been doing this forever.)
While it's possible to achieve transduction using a speaker as a mic, the fact is that on the whole, speakers really don't sound that good in reverse. In fact, they sound down-right horrible as a vocal mic. But in certain circumstances, they do offer something that most vocal mics can't. This is due to the fact that large cones are inherently better at responding to lower frequencies than smaller diaphragms such as the ones present in most vocal mics. This has a lot to do with the correlation of the wavelength of lower frequencies as is corresponds to the circumference of the cone. When recording instruments where low frequencies are critical such as a kick-drum or bass amp, speaker drivers can actually provide tons of glorious sub-frequencies that most dynamic microphones as well as large diaphragm condenser mics just can't re-produce. Used on their own, sub-kick mics aren't that clear a representation, but when added in moderation to standard kick-drum mics closer to the beater head of the kick-drum pedal, they add beefy, percussive and skull-shaking low end that can be heard on a lot of popular drum recordings.
Engineers have been building these things for decades, so it's not a new idea. In fact, Yamaha has a sub-kick mic that is now being manufactured and sold for around $400.00. While I admit, it's always easier to buy one, building one yourself is easy and shouldn't cost you a whole lot. I built the one featured in this article for about $25, and it sounds every bit as awesome as the $400.00 model. (The difference, I think, must be in the materials for the shell and the fancy logo on the front.) Hey, desperate economic times call for creative solutions!
In this how-to article, I'll be showing how I built my own, but I encourage anyone interested in building one for themselves to take some time to research and experiment and come up with their own design. As I have mentioned before, some of my ideas are not unique, so I'll do my best to include links to resources where possible.
Also, I will list some parts as being available at radio shack. Yes. Radio Shack, "You've got questions, we've got blank, vacant expressions" I list this place as a resource because it is accessible to almost every american. I would strongly suggest that if you plan on going to radio shack to buy some or any of these parts, know what you are looking for before you show up. Otherwise, I can almost guarantee you that they will not know what you are looking for and are not likely to be able to help you find them. If you want another good resource, www.digikey.com is a great online dealer for just about any and everything electronics based under the sun.
So without further ado, here's how to make your very own sub-sonic functioning work of art:
Materials List:
(1) 10" subwoofer driver (8 ohm)
(1) 10 1/4" Cardboard Sonitube concrete pillar forming tube
(2) XLR recessed male wall mount
(1) DPDT Submini Toggle Switch
(1) Mini Breadboard (radio shack)
(2) 1/4 Watt 470 ohm resistors (1-2%)
(1) 1/4 Watt 100 ohm resistor (1-2%)
Soldering kit
24 gauge wire
8 zip-ties
Power drill and bits (3/4" bit for XLR mounts, the rest standard sizes)
Tape Measure
Tight-Bond Wood Glue or Gorilla Glue. (Contact cement might work well too)
Dark Lead Pencil and a Sharpie marker
Spray paint (as many colors as you like)
(1) Roll of white, adhesive contact paper
(1) Roll of Blue painting tape
(1) Exacto-Knife (Type A with #11 Blades)
About the materials:
Speaker: I decided to use a 10" sub-woofer for my speaker element, mainly, because it's what I had lying around at the time. From my research, I found that there are some things to consider when choosing a speaker. First off, there's no need to buy anything expensive. The main things to consider are the size of the cone and the stiffness of the material that the cone is made out of. I've read that it's not advisable to use anything smaller than a 6" cone, as 4" is really too small to capture the low frequency waves we're looking for, and because as you get smaller, the speakers get lighter and will distort quicker. Anything larger than 10" is really getting to be large enough to be in the way of other mics and will probably get a little heavy.
Another thing I've read is that stiffer cones don't have as much reflex as softer rubber-gasketed cones and thus are not as responsive. I've not tested either of these theories yet, but I can certainly see the argument for them and I'd love to hear from anyone who has already gathered test results on this.
Electrical Components: Don't go overboard on these either. It's nice to use good resistors when you can, but I've found that it really wont make a noticeable difference if you go with the cheapo radio shack types.
Shell Enclosure: Some people prefer to make their speaker housing out of a wooden drum shell. This is actually what I wish I could've done, but I didn't have one available and rather than spend $40 on one, I thought I would try my best to make do with what cheap materials I could find. The cardboard concrete form tube turned out to be perfect and only cost me $7.00 at the Home Depot.
How it comes together...
Part 1: Making the Shell
This is an important step. If you cut corners or settle for sloppy work in this phase, it will really have a negative impact on the strength of your completed piece, so make sure you have plenty of time set aside for this step. To allow for proper drying time for the glue, I would recommend that you carve out at least a 24hr period to complete this task.
The first thing to do is to measure and cut your shell materials. I like these cardboard form tubes because they are cheap, easy to find and they are NOT precise. If you find the 10" forms at the Home Depot, you'll notice that some of them are actually telescoped inside of each other. I think the official tolerance is something like within 1/4". That means that if you buy a 10" form, there's a good chance it could either be + or - 10". I suggest bringing a tape measure with you to home depot. (If you don't hang out at Home Depot much then this actually works out great...just wear jeans and a flannel shirt and boots and clip the tape measure to your belt...you'll look like a regular).
If you're planning on using a 10" speaker, try to find a form that is a little wider than 10". If you get a 10" tube, the speaker wont fin in very well. I used one that was 10 1/8" in diameter. If you use an 8" or a 6" speaker, then I would suggest going one size down if you can. Otherwise, just be prepared for there to be a lot of daylight showing through your enclosure.
Once you've secured a tube, you'll need to measure out a depth to cut from it. If you got the tube at the Home Depot, you'll probably need to cut a new edge from one side as they have a tendency to get dinged up pretty bad in shipping. (remember, these are used to form concrete)
To measure the correct depth to cut so that it will fit your speaker, set your driver on a flat surface on its magnet so that the speaker is facing up. Then, using your measuring tape, record the distance from the surface to the top edge of the speaker. Add about a half an inch to that number. This is how deep your tube needs to be cut. Starting from the cleanly squared end of the tube, measure the depth and mark it with a sharpie or pencil.
To make the cut, you can use a hand saw if you have one, but I prefer to use my table saw.
PLEASE NOTE: Tablesaws are dangerous, and I cant stress safety enough. If you have not used a table saw before, don't try this! While they are a great tool, without the proper safety training, you can get really hurt or even killed using them, so I mean it: ONLY ATTEMPT TO USE A TABLESAW IF YOU HAVE HAD THE PROPER TRAINING! I hereby assume no liability for injuries caused by using a table saw to complete this project.
If you have to use a hand saw, try to make your cut as square as possible.
If you're comfortable enough with using a tablesaw, set your fence for the depth of the cut and push the square edge against the fence. Raise your blade to 1/2" above the thickness of the tube. Slide the tube across the blade until the blade is in the middle of the tube, then spin the tube a few inches at a time and continue feeding across the blade until the entire circumference has been cut.
This will render the outer shell. But unless your speaker magnet is REALLY weak and light, this will not be strong enough to properly support the speaker or stay put on a stand, so we'll have to sure it up with another layer of cardboard. At 2-Ply, this should be strong enough to keep things supported and will also ensure that this baby lasts. Of course, there's nothing keeping you from going 3-ply if you choose...
To make the shell 2-ply, you'll need to cut a second section to the same depth as the first.
Next, orient the second shell so that it is now 90 degrees from the original cut, and make a slit along the edge of the shell.
This should now allow you to collapse the diameter of the second shell and fit it inside the first. There will be some overlap of the edges. Take a box cutting knife and carefully cut the excess so that there is no longer any overlap. I recommend marking the edges where you can see the overlap and then use a metal ruler to cut a straight line. It's thick cardboard, so the trick is to make multiple passes along the same cut. Eventually, you'll break through and will be rewarded with a clean seam.
Next, you'll have to secure the slitted one inside the outer. This part is a bit tricky. It's important to use a glue with a slower
drying time. This will give you some extra tweaking time to help position the two inside each other so that the edges are just right. I used Tight-Bond Wood Glue and would highly recommend it. (Also, make sure you do this part on a workshop surface you dont mind getting glue on.
(WORD OF ADVICE: NEVER glue anything on top of your table-saw or nice counter tops because it's very likely that glue will drip and ruin a finished surface!)
Start by applying glue in a wave pattern all around the inside of the outer shell. Really make sure you cover the surface as best you can. When it comes to laminating with glue, it's better to be gratuitous than stingy.
Constrict the inner shell so that its small enough to fit inside the larger outer shell, then slowly let go to allow the smaller shell to expand into the bigger shell. Make sure your seams are lined up and try twisting the inner layer against the outer layer. This should help spread the glue around and help to bond the two layers together as the glue dries.
You'll need just about every clamp you might own for this next part. There should be some springy force from the inner section against the inside of the outer shell, but just to be sure there's adequate pressure, use some moderately tightened clamps about every 4-5 inches all the way around the shell.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER-TIGHTEN! Because we're working with cardboard, there will be permanent circle indentions where the clamps were if you squeeze too hard.
Drying time...If you read the bottle of glue, it will tell you that it will dry in a half an hour and be ready to work with in about three. Don't fall for it. Leave this baby clamped up for a minimum of 12 hours. I would recommend 24 if you can muster up the strength. It's also a good idea to leave it in a dry place. Moisture in the atmosphere leads to longer drying-time. Avoid basements and garages if you can as these tend to be pretty damp and humid. My favorite is a full day of sunshine outside if the weather permits, followed by a night inside on newspaper next to a floor vent.
Part 2: Detailing the Shell
Here's the part where you get to make your sub-kick look its best. Just like the last section, rushing is not always a good idea. Make sure you allot enough time to work on this so that you're not hastily making decisions or trying to work with paint that isn't dry yet.
My approach on this one was simple. Since we're building this thing from found parts and cardboard I wanted to give it a low-fi look but still have a level of sophistication that shows that I put some effort into the design. My choice was to use spray-paint because it's easy to get, comes in a wide variety of colors, dries fast, works relatively well on cardboard and would give me the low-fi feel that I was after. To add the level of sophistication, I decided to create a logo and use a second color to add contrast.
The first thing to do is to find a base color. I decided to use a deep burgundy red. Clean the surface of your shell so that there is no sawdust and that there is a clean, smooth surface to apply the paint to. In a well ventilated area, apply a gratuitous layer of gesso or primer. This will keep the bright yellow of the tube from tarnishing the color of my red. I ended up using the Killz spray primer and was amazed at how well it worked.
Next, coat the inside and outside surfaces with your base color. This might take two coats with about 45 minutes in-between to allow for proper drying time. Just like with the glue, the dryer the space, the quicker the dry-time will be. Also, beware of floating dust particles. Outside is risky as there's a lot of junk that might embed itself into your paint job.
For me, stenciling is a lot of fun. I decided to design a logo for the mic so that it would have some character. I played around with a few images in photoshop and eventually came up with a logo design that I was happy with and that also worked in 2-tone.
If you have photoshop chops, this can be a lot of fun, so prepare yourself for a potential time-sink. If you don't have photoshop, you can come up with some pretty cool stuff in MS Word, or heck, you can just draw your own with pen and ink if you want.
To make the stencil transfer, I printed this image out in black and white onto a sheet of contact paper that I cut to 8.5" by 11". BE ADVISED: This only works if you have a laser printer! If you have a standard ink printer, the ink will just bead-up and wont actually sink into the surface. This will create a huge pain in the butt when it comes time to cut your stencil. (Also, the ink will smudge on your fingertips and might prompt people to wonder if you spent the night in jail)
Also be warned, stenciling with contact paper is more accurate on hard, smooth surfaces. It's probable that you'll have less clean lines if you work with aerosol paints on contact paper on cardboard. For me, I want the rough street look, so I'm hoping that this will get me there but still not be too sloppy.
When your base color coats have dried, print out your stencil and adhere it to the side of your shell. I decided to add stripes around the edges to help camouflage the grip ties I'll be using later, so I wrapped the rest of the shell in blue painters tape leaving about a half and inch around the top exposed.
Using the Exacto-Blade, trace out the black parts of the print and remove the sticky parts leaving the color beneath exposed. As you work, be careful not to push the blade too deep as you will damage the cardboard and may even cut yourself.
Take some time to apply some light pressure around your cuts to try to seal the edges as tightly as possible so that paint wont seep in and ruin your lines too badly.
When you're done, you should think about whether or not you want to paint the inside the same color as the outside second tone.
You're now ready to spray the second color over the stencil. For this, I decided to use a latex spray paint as it has a smoother finish and will contrast against the background color better. Also, I find that latex paint tends to stick to itself when it's dry and lines can be cleaned up nicely with a quick and light pass of an exacto blade when you lift the contact paper up.
When the second color is dry enough, go ahead and apply a second coat. It's nice to build up some paint here so that it lifts ever so slightly from the base coat. It gives a subtle beveled look to the surface.
After some touch-up work, the next step is to seal the paint-job with some clear-coat protectant. I used an aerosol version, but you certainly could use a paint brush and some clear-coat enamel also if you prefer to be more eco-friendly. (I'm still feeling pretty guilty about my carbon footprint for this project...)
Part 3: Designing and Building the Electronics
I don't want to get too mired down into the details of explaining electronic theory as that's not really my forte, and I feel it's best left to others more experienced than me to do a better job explaining it. If you're just starting out and are really curious or need a primer on the topic, I would recommend you visit http://www.ndt-ed.org/EducationResources/HighSchool/Electricity/hs_elec_index.htm. It's not critical knowledge for building a sub-kick, but for me, it's always more fun to build something when you understand how it works.
Building an electronics circuit is the simplest part of the construction. The goal here is to provide an electronic output for your signal that most represents that of a microphone. You can achieve this by simply connecting the positive terminal of the speaker to pin two of an XLR output and the negative terminal can connect directly to pin 3. Since there is no connection of the speaker to the ground, nor is there any preamplifier that would draw erroneous electrons into the fray, there is really no need to use a ground connection. Of course, if you wanted to, I suppose you could simply solder a ground wire to the speaker housing and run it to pin 1, though from all the intelligence I have been able to gather, there's really no direct benefit to doing this.
One issue that most people report having with their sub-kick mic is that the signal tends to come in really hot. Most people correct this by implementing a -20db pad at the mic preamp. This is due to the fact that the amount of voltage being created by the movement of the speaker is way beyond the amount of signal a microphone's diaphragm typically generates. This is usually expressed in terms of impedance (noted in ohms). When a mic preamp sees more voltage than it's capable of handling, it will distort.
One of the things that frustrated me for a while me is that mic preamps in general are not manufactured with a standardized input impedance setting. Each manufacturer builds their preamp with a different setting and with different input impedances in mind. Some, like Universal Audio, build preamps with variable input impedance selection so that the preamp can be used with a wide variety of signals ranging from relatively high impedance signals from ribbon microphones or low impedance signals from tube mics. Essentially, this means that if the output of your microphone is not matched properly with the input impedance of your mic preamp, then you will have a voltage drop between the mic and preamp which translates to an audible shift in frequency response from the microphone.
It therefore makes sense that we should try to make the output signal from the speaker match the type of impedance that a microphone would typically output. This is done by implementing a simple pad. The design for my pad construction came from an article published by Ethan Winer in the 80's and can be found here: http://www.ethanwiner.com/gadgets.html. I think this is a fantastic site for very basic DIY buffs. It includes basic circuit diagrams for pads, phantom power supplies, direct boxes and more. Below is a picture of the circuit diagram from Ethan's site that I used in my construction.
The really nice thing about this design is that it allows you to calculate the circuit so that it is optimized for your favorite console or mic pre's input impedance.
As a side note, this same circuit can be used as an inline pad if you buy a switchcraft swfm 3 housing that acts as an XLR coupler. The resistors can be soldered across the pins of the female or male connectors. This comes in really handy when you're in a session and are working with a mic that has a really hot output.
For my construction, I wanted to create an output impedance that is approximately 20db less while maintaining a value consistent with most dynamic microphones. To do this, I changed the value of R1 to 500 ohms and the value of R2 to 1,000 ohms. When added together, the combined resistance load of R1 and R2 will create an output impedance of around 150 ohms and a drop in a little more than 20db. Since the input impedance of my console is 1,200 ohms this should match pretty close since the rule of thumb is that generally, the output impedance of a microphone should be 10 times less than the input impedance of your mic preamp. The matching of impedance is more important to me than achieving exactly 20dB of signal loss.
It did occur to me that there may be times when I would want a really hot output signal from this mic, and so I opted to create a couple of options in my design. Rather than just have one output with the pad, I decided to include two outputs, one that could be sent through the pad switch and one that would come naturally off the speaker. To do this, it was necessary to use a simple DPDT toggle switch. You can find this at any electronics shack, and shouldn't cost more than a couple of dollars.
These switches have three rows of two terminals. The middle two can be thought of as the input for a positive and negative signal. The top two can be thought of as output 1 and the bottom two can be thought of as output 2. The switch will activate one output or the other depending on its position
This configuration is shown in the wiring diagram to the left.
I would recommend constructing the pad circuit on a small breadboard, however they can also be connected directly to the terminals of the xlr connector. I decided to use a breadboard. Personally, I find it's easier to make solid connections this way rather than trying to connect bare wire to a resistor.
Just be careful not to solder any terminals to the xlr connections until after they have been installed into the shell as you wont be able to fit the assembly through the holes otherwise. Just leave them open for now, and solder the assembly to the speaker terminals.
Part 4: Installing the circuit into the shell
Now it's time to install the xlr connectors into the shell and wire-up the shell. Find a 3/4" drill bit and drill two evenly spaced holes into the side of the shell.
Decide where you want your holes to be in relation to how it will hang and where the logo is. I decided to locate mine 90 counter-clockwise from the logo. Since I want my logo to face up, this will keep the wires dangling to the side and not underneath where they could limit hight adjustment.
As you drill, be careful not to apply too much pressure. Because we're drilling into cardboard, it's also best to start from the outside of the shell and drill to the inside. This will keep the cardboard from tearing-out on the show side and ruining your nice painted finish. Drill in short bursts and clean the excess cardboard off of your bit as you go. This will keep the holes edges clean. If there's any tear out when you're done, use the exacto blade to clean it up.
Drill a small hole between the two XLR holes where the toggle switch is to be located. You can then insert the toggle and make sure you orient the switch position to point to the correct output jack.
Using the exacto-blade to clean the edges of the inside of your hole, you should be able to insert the switch with no problems. If your switch is a little small, you may need to bore out a wider hole from the inside so that the threads poke through enough to affix the washer and nut on the outside.
Next, you need to insert the XLR jacks and mark smaller holes where the screw holes should be. I went to the Home Depot and bought small machine screws with matching nut and washers to hold the housings tightly against the cardboard. You cant use woodscrews because the threads wont hold very well in cardboard. You also need adequate washers to keep the nuts from embedding into the cardboard too far and causing the whole thing to rip out.
Again, Be ginger with the drill. Too much pushing will lead to potential disaster.
Now that the hardware is in place, you can go ahead and solder your XLR connections. Make sure that the positive terminals go to pin 2 and the negative terminals go to pin 3. Again, since there is no need for a ground, then pin 1 can remain open.
You are now ready to fit the speaker into the shell so that the speaker is facing straight up and the shell is oriented with the logo right side up.
Using your exacto-knife and a good eye, look for the screw holes in the mounting bracket of the speaker and then trace down the side of the shell a little more than 1/2" from the top (or about an 1/8" below the stripe) and bore a small pin-hole marker. This is where we're going to drill the holes that the grip-ties will go in to suspend the speaker in place in the shell. Go all around the speaker, and wherever there's a hole in the bracket, make a mark on the shell.
When this is done, remove the speaker from the shell and drill out those holes using a bit that is as close to the width of the grip-ties as possible. We're looking for a snug fit here, so it's ok to be tight.
Now flip the speaker over on its face, and put the shell upside-down over it. Insert a grip tie through the mounting holes of the speaker from above and lace the open end around the front-lip and back in through the hole you just drilled. As you insert the grip-tie, make sure that it stays loose. If you tighten too much right-away, you'll lose valuable maneuvering room that will be critical to getting all the way around to the holes on the other side.
When they have all been laced, pull the ends tight as you can. That's it. It's completed. Hook it up to your favorite mic pre and test each output. Let me know what you hear. I hope that this guide has you wanting to try this yourself. If you're a student or a pro looking to spice up your mic-locker, this is an awesome project and I had a blast doing it. Please, email me photos of your own builds. I promise to post any and all photos I get on this page as a gallery testament to all those brave enough to give it a whirl.
When I have a free moment at the studio, I'll be recording some audio samples of mine to add to this article.
Happy building!


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Collection Civil War MapsShow Featured Items
Sketch of crossings on Collins' and Calf-Killer Rivers, Tenn., /
Relief shown by hachures. Sun print. On Ferry and ford crossing at Sligo, De Kalb Co., Tenn., north oriented to left. LC Civil War maps (2nd ed.), 406.7 Bridge and ford at ...
Contributor: Weyss, J. E. Site/Collection: Geography and Map Division - Civil War Maps - Military Battles and Campaigns - American Memory - Catalog Original Format: Maps Date: 1863 View catalog record


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Full Cast and Creative Team Announced for 3-D Theatricals' AVENUE Q, Beg. 7/14
3-D Theatricals presents the third show of its 2012 season with the Three-time Tony Award-winning musical winner, AVENUE Q, music and lyrics by Robert Lopez and Jeff Marx, book by Jeff Whitty, based on an original concept by Robert Lopez and Jeff Marx, musical direction by David Lamoureux, director of puppetry is Christian Anderson and directed by 3-D Theatricals Executive Producer and Artistic Director T.J. Dawson and C.J. Porter.
AVENUE Q will begin performances on Friday, July 13, with a press opening on Saturday, July 14 and perform through Sunday, July 29 at the historic Plummer Auditorium, 201 E. Chapman Ave. in Fullerton. AVENUE Q will then travel across town to perform at the Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center, 1935 Manhattan Beach Blvd. for three performances only August 3-5.
AVENUE Q is the show that won the Tony triple-crown of Best Musical (over Wicked), Best Score, and Best Book! It is a hilarious tale of a recent college grad who moves into a shabby NY apartment looking for his purpose in life. Told with equal parts wit, catchy songs, and puppets, this side-splitting show is a Southern California Regional premiere! And remember, this show is for mature audiences only.
T.J. Dawson (Co-Director/Executive Producer/Artistic Director) has been establishing himself over the past few years in the Los Angeles and Orange County areas as a producer/director/choreographer and is thrilled about a New Theatre Company opening its doors and creating new jobs in a market that needs it so badly. T.J. is extremely passionate about the arts and has loved the unique opportunity to start a professional theatre company from the ground up where the options are endless. He most recently directed the critically acclaimed productions of A Chorus Line (Backstage – Critic's Pick!), The Sound of Music, The Drowsy Chaperone (Winner of Best Musical – Stage Scene LA) and All Shook Up for 3-D Theatricals (both garnering Backstage Critic's Pick and Roar of the Crowd). Select producer/director/choreographer credits include: the Orange County premieres and critically acclaimed productions of Side Show, Lippa's The Wild Party and Bat Boy The Musical which received Critic's Pick from Backstage, "Roar of the Crowd" award from Gold Star Events as well as several Garland Award nominations from Backstage, Cabaret which received Critic's Choice for "Best Show in 2004," Into The Woods, Seussical, Peter Pan, Altar Boyz, Spelling Bee, Hello Dolly! and Avenue Q are among his favorites.
C.J. PORTER (Co-Director) hails from Billings, MT. and is very excited to be back on Avenue Q with the 3-D Theatricals team. His last stage performance was as The Lion in 3DT's The Wizard Of Oz. Past credits include Avenue Q 1st National Tour-Brian; Avenue Q Wynn Las Vegas-Brian; Lips Together Teeth Apart Masquer Theater-Sam; Hamlet, Venture Theater-Laertes; Macbeth, Cortez Creamery Theater-Macbeth; Smoke On The Mountain Montana Rep.-Dennis. Film: "Operation Terror" - Herbert Humphries; American Idiots-Skeeter.
Christian Anderson (Director of Puppetry) directed the puppetry for the show, but that's not all he's done. He's played Nicky/Trekkie in Avenue Q on Broadway; Mark in RENT on Broadway, and originated the role of Dick in High Fidelity on Broadway. Also, Roger in the national tour of Rent and Jerry in the national tour of The Full Monty. TV Credits include: "Law & Order," "The Division," "Days Of Our Lives," and most recently "The Office."
DAVID LAMOUREUX (Musical Direction) is thrilled to join 3-D Theatricals for Avenue Q! Direction/musical direction credits include Musical Theatre West The Wedding Singer - Los Angeles Professional Premiere, The Most Happy Fella, Lewis Family Playhouse - Sweeney Todd, Rent, Into The Woods, Evita, A Chorus Line, Musical Theatre Guild - High Fidelity, Next Season's Chess, Candlelight Pavilion - Godspell, Phantom, Cats, The Will Rogers Follies, and Performance Riverside - Pirates Of Penzance, Joseph...Dreamcoat, Annie. Additionally, David serves as co-producer, alongside Michael Betts, of Musical Theatre West's Reiner Reading Series. As a multi-instrumentalist, David has performed and recorded extensively with artists ranging from Gwen Stefani and Vanessa Carlton to Sandy Duncan and Bob Newhart, and has been seen performing on "Saturday Night Live," "Jay Leno," "David Letterman," "Conan," "Ellen," "Jimmy Kimmel," "Craig Ferguson," "Jonathan Ross (BBC)." "American Music Awards," "Teen Choice Awards" and American Idol. Currently, David plays drums and keyboards for Los Angeles-based band "Augustana."


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Zuckerberg and Obama "had an honest talk about government intrusion on the Internet," says Facebook -- just days after the CEO posted an indignant statement on his Facebook page.
Google's executive chairman envisions a future where robots are "omnipresent in our lives," and he thinks that's a good thing for us.
Google's executive chairman says that mobile has officially won the battle with traditional computing and will only strengthen its dominance in 2014.
Google Chairman Eric Schmidt tells the crowd at South by Southwest that the company's efforts to secure its user data from attacks are now complete.
In conversation with Glenn Beck, Google's executive chairman explains that humans can still occasionally be useful -- for now.
Google's executive chairman plans to award $1 million on March 10 to people or groups using technology to solve worldwide issues.
It's hard being the next Steve Jobs. Sometimes, Kanye West just has to express his frustrations. And his love.
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In light of the surveillance by governments worldwide, Google's Eric Schmidt makes a bold prediction.
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Front Line Safety Tips
- Details
- Created on Monday, 02 December 2002 13:08
- Written by Staff
- "What we have found to be most effective in the area of safety is hands on management -- walking around the plant at all times and being aware of safety issues," said Peter Copelas of Peter's Laundry in Salem, Massachusetts. "We don't have a safety officer, it's everybody's responsibility. Most machines are built with safety aspects, whether interlock switches or machine guards and one of the most important things is not to overpass or allow those machine safety devices to become inoperable."
- "We have a safety committee, but you've got to keep talking about safety, and anytime you see somebody doing something unsafe, you have to remind them about the correct thing to do," says Jerry Thomas, of Illinois Laundry in Ottawa, Illinois. "We also have an awards program. There's a small monetary reward but if somebody doesn't have an accident over the course of a quarter we send them a certificate with an actual safety pin on it - we call it the Safety Pin award."
- "Our biggest thing is safety meetings because the more eyes that we have looking at unsafe conditions helps. We have the meetings once a week and usually around 20 production floor employees and management attend," says Rod Smiley of Nu-Way Cleaners in Pasa Robles, California. "We've found that it has helped to keep accidents down. The meetings cover everything that has to do with safety from lifting correctly to boxes that are stacked in the wrong place where people are walking by."
- "We train everyday, work smart and don't keep our hands where they don't belong," says Jeffery Buck at Apex Laundry in Gulf Port, Mississippi. "We communicate, pay attention and watch out for each other. If somebody comes up with a new process or new idea we'll give it a listen and change the process in a minute if it makes sense. We're alert to cause and effect around here."
- "We keep employees safe through an active safety committee which meets bi monthly," says Alan Fields of Merced Laundry in Merced, California. The committee is composed of employees who are rotated on and off the committee. "It keeps them involved and looking for unsafe situations. We also award employees every 90 days if there's no lost time due to a work related injury. The Vice President and management cook them a big lunch. We're cooking on a regular basis."
- "We follow all of OSAH's rules and regulations," said William Paine of Clean-O-Rama in Rochester, New York. "I make sure that our machinery is all working properly so that nobody is sticking fingers in a machine that's running when
it's not supposed to be, and we eliminate all clutter from work areas because I find that with clutter around you're always tripping over laundry or carts. We keep our aisles really clean to save us from falling and getting injured."
- "Keeping a facility safe is a full time job," said Bob Berger, president of White Star Laundry in Hannibal, MO. "We do it mostly through training and trying to train people on the correct way to operate machinery. Using lockout tagout is a big part of our safety procedures. When repairs are being made we make sure the equipment is locked down so it can't be accidentally started. Everybody is trained on general safety environment and to be aware of safety issues. Then specifically for the people who operate the machinery we discuss each piece of machinery and how it is correctly operated. We value our employee's safety and it's probably one of the biggest things we do next to customer satisfaction."
- "I think the problem is that so many employers and employees take safety for granted or merely pay it lip service," said Tim Crawford, general manager of Alaska Cleaners in Anchorage, Alaska. "Most employers do not do a daily inspection of the premise, which is an OSHA requirement. We not only do a daily inspection, we do a monthly inspection where we have an 18-page check off list. We have different sheets for respiratory and lockout inspections, we check for belt guards and shaft guards, that equipment covers are in place and all equipment is labeled. Are covers on all J boxes and are J boxes free of holes? Are respirators in secured containers, is the eye wash working and are the sprinkler hats free of obstruction? We made our list based on what might occur and make sure it doesn't."
"We have two semi-annual meetings with all employees where we review every one of our safety programs. We cover contamination, fire prevention, hazard communication - so they understand how to interpret a managerial safety data sheet - and make sure everyone is aware and understands a confined space policy and personal protective equipment, hazardous waste policies, fire exit locations, bio hazards and forklift rules."
To keep people conscious on a daily basis we play Safety Bingo where everybody's got a bingo card and when there's no reportable incident a bingo number is drawn and the winner gets $100 cash. It's announced as today's safety bingo number. If there is an incident the game is wiped out and begins again. Safety pays."
Quick Rinse - News From Around The World
G&K Fined By U.S. Attorney's Office
MINNETONKA, Minn. — G&K Services, Inc., was recently fined $450,000 by the U.S. Attorney's Office. According to the U.S. Attorney's Office, G&K discharged too much oil and grease into wastewater at one of their facilities. G&K is headquartered in Minnesota and the facility that was fined is located in Iowa.


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Over 278,000 physical copies of Ground Zeroes have been sold in the United StatesJapanese sales well over 300,000...
Avi Arad: Metal Gear Solid movie's script is currently being developed"It's now done, finished, the vision is in place."
Turn your iPhone 5/S into a real-life iDroid with this MGSV caseAdvanced doesn't-even-exist-in-MGS4's-2016 hologram technology not included.
Hayter on playing as Solid Snake in possible remakes: "I would do it if they asked me"Claims he can still do Snake's younger voice ala 1998's Metal Gear Solid.
Kojima: "We are collecting ur comments of GZ trying to tune TPP for providing more comfortable play.""Getting better, hope you'll like it. Should be."
Metal Gear Solid V: Ground ZeroesSupport The 'Soup, buy from Amazon.com:
PlayStation 3 | Xbox 360 | PlayStation 4 | Xbox One
Eurogamer talks to MGSV designer Jordan Amaro and Volume developer Mike Bithell about stealth"And the whole playing they do in 2 when Raiden starts spotting Snake and starts to get to know Snake, that's Kojima doing my relationship to Snake as, I'm Raiden, Raiden is the nerdy loser kid. I was 15 when I played that game."
Kojima on MGSV: "It is important for me to explain to the players how this hero became an evil threatening the entire world.""Start a war, for its flames, create victims... Then save them, train them... And feed them back onto the battlefield. It's a perfectly logical system."
- Big Boss, Metal Gear 2: Solid Snake
PS3 owners with a lot of music face bugs in Ground Zeroes' music import optionThat helicopter music struggle is real.
Konami UK wants you to use the hashtag "LikeABoss"2009 called on the codec, guys...
Stephen Fry likes "Metal Gear Solid""Unbelievable craftsmanship and storytelling. Too big an adrenalin rush for one my age... Phew!" Is he talking about Ground Zeroes or another MGS?
Kojima Station reveals ability to shut Miller up in The Phantom Pain and knocking replaced by... growling?Oh, and the iDroid case for iPhone 5/S coming worldwide in October.
Konami release a quick behind the scenes video for Ground ZeroesBut what happened to the dogs?
Watch Kojima sniff fumes in the Japanese third episode of Kojima StationEnglish version is just dudes sitting on a couch.
Revengeance pre-order DLC can now be bought individually on PSNBecause "Ultimate Edition" is an "ultimate" rip off.
AOJI Gallery releasing "premium art editions" of Shinkawa Metal Gear artGround Zeroes art available along with some pre-orders; more to be revealed throughout 2014.
Kojima Station: Episode 2Learn why magazines are magic and bananas are music.
Enter the official Metal Gear fan art content and maybe win this lousy jacketKojima not included.
Original script for Ground Zeroes had Chico watch Paz's body slowly decomposeRevealed by Hideo Kojima in an interview with 4Gamer in Japanese. Translated by JunkerHQ.net
Those who purchased Ground Zeroes digitally will automatically get Phantom Pain DLCNo code? No worries! "You are already registered within your ecosystem."
Ground Zeroes on Xbox 360 Core or Arcade requires hard driveOh and if you end up needing a hard drive you will have to buy an overpriced official proprietary drive, at that!
Wolfe: Menu screen exposes "cynical heart of Ground Zeroes.""...you don't unlock a single thing by reaching 100%. Nothing. Not even a cassette tape of Kojima saying "Thanks for the money, asshole.""
Zero Punctuation: Ground Zeroes - $40 Demo"Metal Gear, your writing as officially graduated to that of a bad Saturday morning cartoon."
Zee: "Discussing Violence Against Genders in Metal Gear Solid""Perhaps the community should be focusing more on games that actively feature such poorly represented characters instead of creating drama for a franchise that has been fair in its portrayal of genders and race."
- EDITORIAL: How Ground Zeroes Made Me Simultaneously Excited and Worried for The Phantom Pain
Listen to "Rules of Nature" from Revengeance played on a kazooThey played it with a damn kazoo!
GameFAQs user creates Mother Base VR Simulator spreadsheetMostly complete with statistics and unlock information.
Metal Gear fan analyzes Ground Zeroes' gameplay mechanics; compares with previous titles"Some of the new mechanics and additions are awesome, but I think it's a shame it's often detrimental to other, well grounded and justified gameplay elements that literally defined the series up to that point."
Red Code Interactive: What if MGSV:GZ was a FPSHacker group manages to make game play entirely in first person mode.
Super Bunnyhop analyzes Ground Zeroes"Ground Zeroes does not stand on its own as a self-contained story."
Red Code Interactive hacker finds unused "Game Over on Alert" code in Ground ZeroesPossible addition to The Phantom Pain?


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Eor Project news and technical articles from Oil & Gas Journal. Search Eor Project latest and archived news and articles
Denver Lawrence P. Laczko OXY USA Inc. Midland Tex. A design study for a new West Texas gas processing plant for a CO2 EOR project provides for installation of H2S removal processes to be delayed for 3 years after completion of the plant. During
US. The information in the survey is collected at an EOR project level, providing detailed, highly valuable data on ..... extend Bravo Dome CO2 supply to the N.E. Hardesty EOR project , and increased supplies of CO2 from other industrial
has a single successful thermal EOR project , but no operator has tried even ..... stored in order to fulfill the EOR project 's needs (Fig. 1). This project ..... Based on the history of successful EOR project results, CO2 miscible flooding
commit to a large-scale CO 2 EOR project and the long-term purchase of ..... relatively short time into a CO 2 EOR project , various degrees of corrosion ..... source may never result in a CO 2 EOR project . However, for those fields with
included KinderMorgan's CO 2 - EOR project at Katz oil field and Legado Resources's CO 2 - EOR project at Goldsmith in West Texas. In ..... Resources has added a second CO 2 - EOR project in Louisiana, the large miscible CO
controls and windfall profits tax for EOR project production and codification of ..... AMT taxable income base. In an EOR project context this deduction can be of ..... is available for any qualified EOR project (Table 1). Such projects are
MMcfd of CO 2 for its Bell Creek EOR project in southeastern Montana from the ..... Colorado, Chevron Corp. operates an EOR project in Rangely field that receives ..... from its operated Sacroc CO 2 - EOR project to Katz field. Fox said the pipeline
it said in a press release. John Festival, BlackPearl president, said, "Over the next 3 years, the Onion Lake EOR project is expected to double company production and will put us in a much stronger financial position to tackle the 80,000
it said in a press release. John Festival, BlackPearl president, said, "Over the next 3 years, the Onion Lake EOR project is expected to double company production and will put us in a much stronger financial position to tackle the 80,000
compressor station in Coffeyville feeds the CO2 to Burbank, west of Pawhuska, Okla. Chaparral estimated that its EOR project will increase the recovery factor by 10-15% from the NBU, which has produced more than 319 million bbl of oil since


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Find a Helsingborg, Sweden vacation rental home for your vacation. Stay at one of our rustic Helsingborg, Sweden cabins, cozy cottages, or authentic condos. We have everything from large rental homes to small villas. Rent for a weekend, week, month, or entire season! Vacation rentals are great accommodations for families and large groups. Enjoy the convenience of a full kitchen and save money by eating in. Living like the locals at a vacation rental assures you an authentic travel experience. Browse our Helsingborg, Sweden vacation rentals and plan your vacation today!
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Norrland, Sweden Dog Sledding - Become a part of a dogsledding adventure, Northern light, Mountains, Forests, Alaska husky's, white snow, come closer to nature, the great expanses of wilderness. Our tours are high quality ecotourism, we do our adventures with 2-6 guests per tour.
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Sweden, Sweden Dog Sledding - Sweden Snow & Ski: Dog Sledding
Sweden, Sweden Dog Sledding - Sweden Snow & Ski: Dog Sledding


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Mobile is huge. The use of mobile devices and apps is pervasive in our everyday lives - on average, mobile users check their devices 30 times per hour. And with an estimated 200 million employees expected to join those already following a "bring your own device" policy at work, the market has barely been tapped.
But the bar is much higher for enterprise mobile. Mobile apps must not only satisfy user needs with flexible development tools; they must also connect seamlessly with backend systems, allow centralized management, and meet enterprise security requirements.
This demand for robust, secure mobile apps is driving IBM's strategy for mobility on System z®, starting with Linux® on System z. Clients are focused on three key capability sets, and these are particular strengths of System z:
Building and connecting mobile applications
Using IBM Worklight Studio with Rational® Developer gives customers a common set of tools for end-to-end mobile development for System z. Companies get the advantages of native app development, and then use WebSphere® MQ and IBM Integration Bus to connect back-end applications with mobile devices.
Managing and securing mobile applications and devices
A single security breach can cost millions; enterprise-class mobile solutions must secure transactions from virtually any device and location while keeping the network protected and running efficiently. IBM Endpoint Manager provides this single point of control. Although Windows®-based, it can be extended to other platforms, including System z, where enterprise data is secured.
Extending mobile capabilities and transforming business with new opportunities
Mobile is core to IBM's Smarter Commerce strategy and integrated portfolio; soon we'll be seeing solutions that link mobile with analytics and social business, help our clients reinvent the customer experience, and empower employees and partners with anywhere-anytime information and collaboration.
The future of mobile on System z
Mobile is a transformational business model that is changing the way we work. IBM's goal is to be the #1 provider for mobile solutions, and clearly, System z will play a strong role in our success – from helping customers define their mobile strategy, develop, secure and manage it, to extending mobile to the point of transformation. "Mobile as a service" is not that far away, and System z's unique and critical role in this space will continue to grow.
UF students get up-to-the-minute class schedules, grades and more on their smartphones via a mobile app that runs on CICS, with data managed and secured on System z.Get the details
Sicoob meets mobile demand for its members with IBM System z
Brazil's largest credit union system, Sicoob, faced numerous reliability issues as they expanded their business to accommodate more and more mobile devices. By adopting IBM System z, Sicoob grew mobile solutions by 600% and realized multiple key benefits
NEW announcements for Mobile
Mobile Quality Assurance Open Beta
IBM WebSphere Liberty z/OS Content Statement of Direction
Video: Opening the mainframe to mobile devices
See how IBM Rational offers both mainframe and mobile application development capabilities integrated together as part of a broader application lifecycle management solution.


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My house has a shower with a two handle Sterling, and it leaks cold water out of the faucet. I replaced both hot and cold stems ( figured I'd do both sides while I was at it), and now it leaks worse! I replaced the whole stem, plastic parts, o rings, everything, and the cold side still leaks out of the faucet. I swapped all hardware from cold side to hot, and the cold side still leaks, so it is making me think it has to do with the pipes in the wall, not the parts I replaced. Looks like there is a forging seam in the pipe in the wall, where the water goes from the valve to the faucet, that might be ever so slightly cracking, but I am not sure. I placed a small amount of JB Weld in it, and it seemed to slow the leak ever so slowly, but it is still leaking worse than before I replaced it! Not sure what to do next, I have no access to the rear of the shower (yet), and I am trying to avoid cutting an access panel into my bedroom wall. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Just to clarify, what appears to be a crack is on the inside of the pipe, nothing is leaking outside of the pipe, just out of the faucet into the tub. All pipes and connections are tight and dry.
Randy the electronic engineering student who is not a plumber in the least


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About us
As part of an audio publishing initiative to support and promote the work of Irish composers, the Arts Council and RTÉ today (11 October 2011) launched a new CD of orchestral works by Dublin-born composer and Aosdána member John Kinsella, performed by the RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra. Funded by RTÉ and the Arts Council, the CD is part of the Composers of Ireland series.
John Kinsella joins Gerald Barry, Raymond Deane, Seóirse Bodley, Deirdre Gribbin and Ian Wilson in this project promoting the orchestral works of Irish composers. There are five more CDs to be issued as part of the series which will feature the music of Donnacha Dennehy, Kevin Volans, Kevin O'Connell, Elaine Agnew and Stephen Gardner.
John Kinsella has been described as ". the most significant Irish symphonist since Stanford," by BBC Radio 3. He has written over 21 compositions for orchestra including nine symphonies - works which have been performed by the RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra and major orchestras throughout the world.
The impulse to create music has been with John Kinsella since he was a child, studying pocket editions of the scores of Sibelius and Beethoven. In 1988 he retired from RTÉ as Head of Music to concentrate on composition. The earliest piece on John Kinsella: Orchestral Works is his Symphony No.6, a celebration of friendship and shared musical interests dating from 1992.
Kinsella himself admits that Symphony No.7, also on the CD, while very much written in his own style, contains deliberate points of contact with Sibelius' 7th Symphony. The other two compositions on John Kinsella: Orchestral Works are Cúchulainn and Ferdia: Duel at the Ford and Prelude and Toccata for String Orchestra, the latter originally written as a string quartet for the 2007 West Cork Chamber Music Festival. Cúchulainn and Ferdia, whose title is echoed by the Louis le Brocquy work on the CD cover, received its world premiere at a gala concert celebrating the 60th anniversary of the RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra in 2008.
This year the Arts Council marks its 60th anniversary and speaking today, Pat Moylan, Chairman of the Arts Council, said: "Artists are central to all aspects of the Arts Council's work. They make a unique contribution to society and our advocacy on their behalf is underpinned by a range of financial supports, both direct and indirect. To enable Irish composers engage with as wide a public as possible it is essential for them to have their music performed, recorded and extensively distributed. I am delighted this CD with compositions by John Kinsella has been issued today and that the Arts Council is collaborating with RTÉ on this exciting recording initiative to support the work of Irish composers."
Aodán Ó Dubhghaill, Head of RTÉ lyric fm, described the Composers of Ireland series of CDs on the lyric label as: "A prime example of what can be achieved when state funded organisations work in partnership. This series is receiving very positive critical reviews and is promoting the work of Irish composers at home and abroad."
Desert Rose, (oil on board) - Colin Middleton, 1975, Arts Council Virtual Gallery.


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text: I think the Promenade uses a Unifit adapter, if so, and you can live with it sticking 2" further out, get a 10" Unifit adapter (and you can throw the 12" one away that came with it, no credit for it!). If it doesn't, you may be able to fudge the mounting of the toilet to the flange enough. The outlet of the unifit adapter is 2-1/8", and the hole is either 3 or 4", so you can mount it off center, and it will still drop into the drain without issues.


text: And I think that we have to fight. We have to — even if it seems like we're being the political correctness police, we have to say, "Guys, come on, really, this? This is what you think as a visionary? This is what you think is amazing? Really, you don't feel awkward standing in the sea of white men chanting, 'Suck my dick?' That's where are we at here in 2011?" God! I mean, maybe we are all just animals, I don't know. There's a part of me sometimes that think that I just entered the wrong business. I should be like — I don't know, like braiding dove feathers — I have no idea. Maybe I'm too sensitive.


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saw 'our idiot brother' and i just want to cuddle paul rudd so bad right now
― zubaz fupa (elmo argonaut), Monday, 23 April 2012 17:10 (2 years ago) Permalink
his role as the creepy lamaze instructor on Reno 911 was pretty fantastic
― Moodles, Monday, 23 April 2012 17:24 (2 years ago) Permalink
Also, this is amazing:
― Moodles, Monday, 23 April 2012 17:27 (2 years ago) Permalink
eh, no embedding...
just got no love for this Rudd guy
― PSOD (Ste), Monday, 23 April 2012 17:35 (2 years ago) Permalink
― zubaz fupa (elmo argonaut), Monday, 23 April 2012 17:37 (2 years ago) Permalink
Our Idiot Brother would've been great, if it hadn't had the "happy ending for everyone" Hollywood ending. It was still okay (and Rudd was indeed endearing in it), but it was no Role Models.
― Tuomas, Monday, 23 April 2012 17:53 (2 years ago) Permalink
paul crudd
― Spectrum, Monday, 23 April 2012 17:55 (2 years ago) Permalink
― Tuomas, Monday, April 23, 2012 1:53 PM (4 minutes ago) Bookmark
Tuomas as Francesca Fiore and Bruno Pontz Jones in a Kids In The Hall sketch: "They would never kill hero in American movie, ah? No. With them, it's always the happy ending. Always the football player throw the ball for the big win, ah? Yes. Always the puppy, licking the face."
― Poor Turrican (some dude), Monday, 23 April 2012 18:03 (2 years ago) Permalink


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Herbal Immune Balance Daily combines the ancient wisdom of traditionally used herbals and organic mushrooms with exciting emerging science surrounding whole food ingredients like fermented yeast, Epicor® and Vitamin Code® whole food vitamins and minerals.
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1 At time of Manufacture


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Raspberries are one of the most popular summer fruits and are very easy to grow. Different training techniques mean raspberries can be grown in gardens of any size and in containers.
Raspberries thrive in moisture-retentive, fertile, slightly acidic soils, which are well-drained and weed free. They dislike waterlogged soils and shallow chalky soils. For best results, plant in a sheltered, sunny position; although they will tolerate part shade.
In early March apply slow-release general fertiliser, fish, blood and bone for example, at 34g per sq m (1oz per sq yd), then mulch with well-rotted organic matter. If the growth is weak, apply sulphate of ammonia at 34g per sq m (1oz per sq yd) or dried poultry manure pellets at 100g per sq m (3oz per sq yd).
Keep raspberries well watered during dry periods.
Raspberries can be planted any time during the dormant season, between November and March, providing the soil is not frozen or waterlogged.
Raspberries are usually planted in rows and trained along a post and wire system. But, if you have a smaller garden, you can still grow raspberries, either in containers, or train them up a single post (see below for more on training techniques).
Single raspberry plants can be grown in 38cm (15in) diameter containers of 80 percent multipurpose compost and, to add weight for stability, 20 percent loam-based potting compost, training the canes up bamboo poles.
Keep the compost moist (using rainwater in hard water areas) and feed with a liquid general-purpose fertiliser on a monthly basis during the growing season.
Regular annual pruning will result in healthier plants, and better quality crops.
Cut back all the canes to ground level in February. Reduce the number of canes slightly in summer if they are very overcrowded.
This system is ideal for summer-fruiting raspberries in a small garden.
This system is well suited to autumn-fruiting raspberries, and increases yield in a small space for summer-fruiting raspberries. Tying in of canes is not necessary. Picking is more difficult, and there is a greater chance of fungal problems in the more crowded conditions.
This system is ideal for the very small garden.
Raspberry 'Autumn Bliss' plants in a row
Summer fruiting raspberry plants in a row
Training a summer fruiting raspberry to its wires
Raspberries in winter
Lift healthy suckers that appear between the rows and plant them as above. You can also divide large clumps and take softwood or semi-ripe cuttings.
There are many raspberry varieties to choose from. Here are just a few;
AGM fruitRHS Plant Finder
Raspberries may suffer from various problems, including pigeons, raspberry beetle, raspberry cane blight, raspberry leaf and bud mite ,raspberry spur blight and replant disease.
Common name RaspberryBotanical name Rubus idaeusGroup Cane fruitFruiting time Summer to autumnPlanting time November to MarchHeight & spread Variable, depends on training system usedAspect Sun or part shadeHardiness Fully hardyDifficulty Easy to mdoerate
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66: Abusive Astronomy
|Abusive Astronomy
Title text: Medium: Pencil on paper
[edit] Explanation
A constellation is a pattern of stars which form some sort of perceived shape in the night sky. Modern astronomy recognizes 88 unique constellations, but different cultures saw different patterns in the same night sky, going back at least as far as the Babylonians. The Pleiades, Orion's belt and the Big Dipper (formally known as Ursa Major) are among the most common constellations that we recognize today and are among the first taught to people with an interest in astronomy. The Big Dipper is only visible from the Northern Hemisphere and it can be used to help find the north pole star Polaris which is an aid to night-time navigation.
During planetarium tours, the tour guide will point out popular constellations and stars, sometimes they will ask a question to get the audience involved in the presentation. Usually these people are big on showing the wonder of the galaxy and are all smiles, but people have bad days. The comic is presenting an especially aggressive way of introducing the constellations. A sidenote is that the Pleiades, while a famous night-sky object, is not a constellation at all; it is an open star cluster.
When astronomers in the Northern Hemisphere are showing stars to people, there will frequently be someone who points to the Pleiades and says, "There's the Big Dipper!" This gets frustrating about the 100th time that you encounter this error. So, this comic shows someone releasing their frustration on the mis-informed public by pointing out that what they just pointed at is actually the Pleiades. Then, pointing out that you can always locate the Pleiades by following the line of the stars in the belt of Orion. Then, pointing out the REAL Big Dipper.
In the title text, Randall explains that he drew this comic as a line drawing on white paper, using only a pencil. The image was later inverted for publication.
[edit] Transcript
- Identifying star clusters:
- [Image of a star cluster.]
- This is the Pleiades, asshole.
- Orion's Belt:
- [Image of Orion's Belt.]
- Only a moron couldn't find it.
- This is the Big Dipper:
- [Image of the Big Dipper.]
- What the hell is wrong with you?
Actually, I don't quite get it. Since it's one of the early xkcd strips, it is somewhat different from the latter ones. I would suppose he is making fun on how it is impossible to guess what the constellations are, as they just look like a bunch of stars clumped together (definitely not like a belt). 184.108.40.206 03:52, 25 October 2012 (UTC) NariOX
The first one looks like a certain male part, the second looks like a pencil, I can't figure out the last one though...Constellations are NOT "formally known as asterisms." They are defined area of the celestial sphere. Asterisms are star formations that are part of constellations (e.g. Orion's Belt) or can span multiple constellations (e.g. the Summer Triangle and Winter Hexagon.) Constellations are more formally called, um, constellations. Subwoofer (talk) 22:23, 6 September 2013 (UTC)


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I don't remember if I posted this before, but there have been some recent improvements so it is worth mentioning again.
You can create online floor plans for remodeling and such. I actually used it in an online game that I was running for quick and easy interior maps for the game.


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Lake Titicaca is a sacred place for the Inca civilization, as Incan mythology says the first Inca king, Manco Capac, was born here. According to myth, this is the place where the world was created from, when the god Viracocha came out of the lake and created the sun, the stars and the first people.
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Peruvian Juchas Rumis Stones 5.0 1 Reviews.