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Tips, Tricks & Industry News
Samantha Pena
April 23, 2014
Imagine meeting someone for the first time. You either click with the person or you learn that you don't have many commonalities, at which point, you either become friends or you part ways. A brand/consumer relationship works very much in the same w
Jason Tezgerevski
April 22, 2014
Using email to market to your customers is a shrewd and savvy way to increase engagement with readers as well as increase sales. However, you cannot simply send an email to random people and expect results. Listed below are a few informative tips to help
April 16, 2014
In a world where every company is vying for attention, it is not always easy to drown out the competition and have your company's voice heard above all the rest. How, then, can you brand your company so that it is not only different from your compet
April 15, 2014
While some may say that bad publicity is better than no publicity, this particular line of thinking becomes highly questionable when companies adopt that line of thinking for their social media strategy. Although there are certainly some brands that lever
April 08, 2014
When you go to your website, what do you see? Do you see a site that you are proud to own and be able to say "Yes, this is my company"? Or do you see a site that makes you bow your head in embarrassment, a site that makes you want to immediate
Lauren Bozzi
April 07, 2014
By now you've probably been exposed to spring cleaning—whether participating it in or observing others do it. Well, this spring we decided to put our own spin on the infamous seasonal cleaning extravaganza: we revamped our website and restyled
April 02, 2014
The value of quality content should not be overstated. If you don't have what your readers are looking for, they are not going to want to recommend your page to their friends or share links to your blog on their social media channels. Listed below are som
April 01, 2014
When starting a new business or attempting to rebrand an old one, going back to a blank drawing board can be intimidating. However, turning your business into a brand is certainly possible when equipped with the right tools and knowledge to do so. Here ar
March 17, 2014
If you are going to run an eCommerce store, you need to have a site that is responsive and optimized for the needs of those using mobile devices. While few businesses currently optimize content for mobile devices, that will need to change. Listed below ar
March 12, 2014
In our current digital age where smart phones and tablets are becoming the primary way users interact with the Web, you need to seriously rethink your marketing strategy and decide if your business can benefit from a stronger mobile presence. Your potenti
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LinkedIn LAW PreDiscovery and Early Data Analyzer User Group
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Recapturing the Discovery Fees your Law firm Used to Earn. Kristin Branson, TechnoLawyer's editor, shares insight into increasing revenue & reducing overhead in the era of electronic discovery. Find out more.
Cloud Cost Recovery. Hear from Michael R. Arkfeld, attorney, speaker and author, on the Proliferation of "Electronically Stored Information" (ESI) and Reimbursable Private Cloud Computing Costs. Find out more.
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Shake up your meatloaf routine by making this simple turkey version. Serve with mashed potatoes and a salad. A little-known fact about turkey- compared to other meats, it is a pretty good source of calcium. Pound for pound, ground turkey is also lower in overall fat and saturated fat than ground chicken.


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UConn's errant priorities
A legislative study concluded tuition and fees for in-state undergraduates at the University of Connecticut "increased 9 percent beyond inflation between 2008 and 2011 (four academic years). ... Tuition boosts of about six percent (are scheduled) in each of the next three fiscal years, in addition to a cumulative fee increase of approximately nine percent." Meanwhile, core inflation has been running about 2 percent, and the Congressional Budget Office projects it will remain there through at least 2023.
But it's good to know the university is plowing all this extra money into curricular and classroom improvements. Just kidding: Two dozen top UConn administrators got hefty raises of up to $22,500 last month "as life on the big Storrs campus remains insulated from economic conditions that have left the state struggling to balance its budget," The Hartford Courant reported Sunday. "The raises ranged from a top rate of 5 percent — which 12 of the 24 received — down to 4.1 percent. The percentages are roughly the same as their management counterparts in executive branch agencies of the state government."
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VA's Career Development Program was established to provide mentoring for junior researchers so they can learn from renowned, experienced VA researchers. Awardees from this program have become national and international leaders in their research fields. Awards are provided in all areas of VA�s research enterprise: biomedical laboratory, clinical science, health services, and rehabilitation research.
Candidates for Career Development Awards need not have VA appointments at the time they apply, but must be nominated by a VA facility and must identify an appropriate VA mentor. The CDP is open to all researchers, both MDs and PhDs, who have the appropriate experience and training as stated in the eligibility section of the CDP Handbook.
Nominees should work closely with their sponsoring research office to prepare a Letter of Intent (LOI), which is the first step in the review process. If the LOI is approved, the nominee may prepare an application in accordance with CDP guidelines. The sponsoring VA research office must submit the application on behalf of the nominee.
The deadlines for LOI submission to Biomedical Laboratory/Clinical Science R&D Services are June 1 and December 1.
The deadline for LOI submission to Health Services R&D is April 15 and October 15.
The deadline for LOI submission to Rehabilitation R&D is May 1 and November 1.
Note: If the deadline falls on a weekend or holiday, submission is due the next business day. Early submission of LOIs is encouraged. (Deadline dates and contacts are summarized in the chart below.)
|Biomedical Laboratory R&D
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December 1
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Only electronic submissions will be accepted--no paper copies. Electronic submissions must be e-mailed to the appropriate service as a PDF file. The file should be named using the following format: Principal Investigator's Last Name, First Initial, Station Number and Award Level.
Please see the services RFA for proposal submission deadlines.


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We only have a fraction of our total inventory catalogued and online. If you were unable to find the book you wanted, then please complete the form below and we will search our off-line inventory for you. If we don't have the book in our inventory, then we will contact fellow booksellers to try to locate the book for you.
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What an amazing turnout we had for Telluride Adaptive Sports Program's fundraising event Rockin' at the Opera. It was our most successful event to date! We are overwhelmed with the outpouring of support we received from the community.
We would especially like to thank Turner Toyota in Montrose, Alpine Bank and Emeritus Pinot Noir for sponsoring this year's event. Also, a huge thank you to the five restaurants and one caterer that provided the most delicious and incredible food throughout the evening. Honga's, Rustico, Siam, Rev, Flavor and AH Cuisine all donated their time and resources to serve our guests amazing delicacies. Over 200 businesses and individuals donated to our live and silent auction. We are also incredibly grateful to our team of volunteers who helped to organize and run the event.
In addition to our auctions, we offered attendees the opportunity to sponsor scholarships for regional students, Special Olympics training and wounded veterans. That endeavor alone raised over $32,000.
Thank you to everyone who had a hand in this event – our dedicated volunteers, attendees and donors. It was a wonderful evening and we look forward to seeing all of you next year.
– Jackie Unternahrer and Courtney Stuecheli, Telluride Adaptive Sports Program


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SanAntonio police announced the arrest Monday of an alleged burglar who stole more than $100,000 worth of jewelry from a Costco store located off UTSA Boulevard.
Sgt. Javier Salazar didn't say how the suspect broke into the store on July 12, but he did say he took a substantial amount of jewelry.
The suspect was identified as 31-year-old Dustin Ammons.
Salazar said Ammons was arrested Monday morning by officers with the Repeat Offenders Program and the Prue Road Property Crimes unit.
Salazar didn't say what led police to Ammons but they believe he is the person who broke into the store two months ago and stole the jewelry, some of which was recovered when they arrested Ammons.
"Over a $120,000 worth of jewelry was taken," Salazar said. "Some of the jewelry believed to be from that burglary itself was recovered today in possession of Mr. Ammons' when he was arrested."
Ammons will be charged with burglary.
Salazar added detectives are still investigating the crime. They aren't sure if Ammons was working alone or if he had help.
If you have any information about the heist call police at 207-SAPD or 224-STOP.
For a list of recent stories Tim Gerber has done, click here.


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It's been a few days since we opened the Google AI Challenge website. Since then, I have been having a bit of fun playing with the Google Analytics page that is attached to the contest website. Google Analytics lets you slice and dice traffic statistics in all kinds of ways. Here are some highlights.
I knew that usage of Internet Explorer was lower amongst students, but I didn't expect it to be that low! IE clocked in at just over 6%. Firefox was the big winner, with almost half the unique visitors to the site. My personal favorite, Chrome, weighed in second, followed by Safari. What the heck is Opera? :-)
Although Internet Explorer has all but disappeared amongst students, Windows is still the operating system of choice. I was surprised to see that Linux was ahead of Mac. I would have been interested to see the breakdown of the different flavors of Linux, but the information was unavailable.
Most of the site's visit have come from Canada at this point. However, we're about to launch a big push to raise awareness of the Google AI Challenge internationally. I am hoping that by the end of the contest, this world map is all lit up.
Then there's my favorite feature: the graph. The graph appears on the front page of the Google Analytics dashboard, and shows your site's daily traffic rise and fall over time. It is all-consuming and addictive. Must… make… the line… go… up! The graph updates once per day at around 1 AM. How cruel is that? Try falling asleep at 11 PM like a normal person when you know that the graph will update in just two short hours!


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iPhone 4 Home Button Replacement
Removing the home button and its cover.
- Author: Walter Galan
- Difficulty: Difficult
Use this guide to replace a damaged home button to regain use of your iPhone.
Embed this guide
With the HTML code below, you can embed this guide as a small widget on your website.
- Rear Panel 3 steps
- Battery 3 steps
- Logic Board 13 steps
- Speaker Enclosure Assembly 2 steps
- Display Assembly 9 steps
- Home Button 3 steps
- iPhone 5-Point Pentalobe Screwdriver (if iPhone has external pentalobe screws)
Tools (continued)
- iPhone SIM Card Eject Tool
- Phillips #000 Screwdriver (if iPhone has external Phillips screws)
- Phillips #00 Screwdriver
- Plastic Opening Tools
- 2.5 mm Flathead Screwdriver
- Spudger
- Tweezers
Relevant Parts
Edit Step 1 — Rear Panel ¶
Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.
Your iPhone 4 rear cover may have either two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws (second image). Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.
Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.
During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.
The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.
Edit Step 3 ¶
Pinch the rear panel with your fingers and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .
Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.
If you are installing a new rear panel, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area near the lens.
Edit Step 5 ¶
Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.
Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.
Edit Step 6 ¶
Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone.
Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone.
You may need to use a plastic opening tool to loosen the adhesive under the battery.
Remove the contact clip from the iPhone.
Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip (shown in red) is properly positioned next to the battery connector.
Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the pressure contact as well as its contact point on the rear panel with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.
Edit Step 8 ¶
Remove the following two screws:
One 1.2 mm Phillips
One 1.6 mm Phillips
Remove the thin steel dock connector cable cover from the iPhone.
Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cable cover with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.
Edit Step 13 ¶
Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to to the logic board:
One 2.3 mm Phillips
Two 1.6 mm Phillips
One 1.4 mm Phillips
One 4.8 mm Phillips
When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless.
Also make sure to put the long 4.8 mm Philips back in correctly when reassembling. This is the ground for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit if you are having bad Wi-Fi reception after reassembly.
Edit Step 14 ¶
Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger to pull the Wi-Fi retaining clips away from the inner frame.
Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Make sure you don't lose the metal clips on the top of the cover where the 4.8mm screw attaches or the 4.8mm screw. That's the primary reason for abnormal Wi-Fi performance after the reassembly.
Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the connector cover with a de-greaser such as Windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues. Do not clean the connectors themselves with Windex.
Edit Step 17 ¶
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the following connectors up and out of their sockets on the logic board:
Digitizer cable (pry from bottom)
LCD cable (pry from bottom)
Headphone jack/volume button cable (pry from top)
Top Microphone/sleep button cable (pry from top)
Front camera cable (pry from top)
Edit Step 18 ¶
Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack.
When reassembling the device, this standoff sets the height of the Wi-Fi shield removed in step 13. If not torqued down, the shield will be above the plane of the frame and the back will not slide into place in step 2. The shield should be flush with the headphone jack.
When reassembling the motherboard, ensure that its edge sits under the circled standoff, otherwise the screws will not fit.
When reassembling ensure that the small rubber spacer attached to the top of the motherboard is in place. Without this part the motherboard could damage the ribbon cables around it.
Edit Step 21 ¶
Remove the speaker enclosure from the iPhone.
Before re-fastening the speaker enclosure to the inner frame, be sure the four small EMI fingers rest below the lip of the LCD frame.
Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points between the EMI fingers and the internal frame as well as the brass screw mounting point with a de-greaser such as Windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.
Edit Step 24 ¶
Remove the three large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws along the volume button side of the iPhone.
Keep track of the washers under each of the screws.
Tip: It can be tricky, but it is also possible to just loosen the large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws slightly, without having to remove and replace the screw-and-washer set.
Edit Step 27 ¶
Remove the three large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws along the SIM card side of the iPhone.
Keep track of the washers under each of the screws.
Tip: It can be tricky, but it is also possible to just loosen the large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws slightly, without having to remove and replace the screw-and-washer set.
Remove the small-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the rear camera.
Edit Step 28 ¶
Carefully insert the edge of an iPod opening tool between the rubber bezel around the front glass panel and the steel inner frame.
Do not attempt to insert the tool between the glass and the rubber bezel.
Carefully pry the upper edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.
Edit Step 29 ¶
Slowly and gently lift the top edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.
Continue to rotate the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame until it slowly begins to peel off the adhesive applied below the home button area.
It may be easiest to insert a spudger at the top and work it around the edges, spreading gently as you go.
Carefully pull the lower edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.
Be careful, if the home button sticks to the front panel you may tear the home button cable.
Do not flip the front glass completely away from the frame. Doing so may result In damage to the digitizer cable.
If the glass is cracked (which it probably is since you're replacing it) removing the panel is likely to cause it to bend, kicking off small shards of glass. Before you do this step, cover the front with clear tape, then perform the actual removal over a trash can. Protective eyewear would also be prudent.
Edit Step 30 ¶
De-route the digitizer and LCD cables through the steel inner frame.
Before re-fastening the front panel to the steel inner frame, be sure both the LCD and digitizer cables are not folded or pinched between the inner frame and the front panel assembly. This will result in possibly damaging the cables and not having enough slack when reconnecting them to the logic board.
When the front panel has been correctly installed both the LCD and digitizer cables should be immediately next to one another and should be the same length and should be just hanging over the steel frame.
Ensure that the cables do not get caught between the screen and the frame.
When replacing the front panel assembly you must remember that you might have to reuse the earpiece grille and the clear plastic ring around the front facing camera from the old/damaged assembly. This will depend on where you buy the replacement part.
After reassembly, protect your new display from any scratches by installing a new screen protector.
Edit Step 32 ¶
Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button ribbon cable out of its socket.
Do not excessively strain the home button ribbon cable, as it is very thin and delicate. Also, be careful with the two small electronic parts on the ribbon cable. It is very easy to damage them with tweezers.
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Utter and complete failure. Followed the directions to a 'T' to replace my home button. Home button works now. Digitizer and screen now only work periodically. Degreased the connections with windex and it only made it worse.
I followed this guide slowly and carefully and it worked perfectly, just used tissue instead of windex and everything is fine, saved me £139 that apple wanted to charge me :)
Leigh Ellis, · Reply
iFixit is to commended for this very detailed guide, but you may not need to go through this 30+ step process. Before ripping up your phone, try this simple no-risk fix. It seems to have fixed my button. Maybe it won't last, but it might get me through my contract.
Instructions followed, procedure was a success! A wise tip: use rubber surgeon gloves. No worries about oil and sweat involved. I did it much more confident.
dedargains, · Reply
Just a tip:
To make sure all the small screws goes in the same places they were from the beginning I printed out this guide and taped them to the paper one by one as I went along. Just tape them to the corresponding places in the pictures and you can't go wrong.
Like the author says, if one screw goes in the wrong place it could brake something. (I learned this the hard way on a netbook)
/Glenn from Sweden
Glenn Feldt, · Reply
This is not a procedure for people without patience, and steady hands.
But if you have them both, then go ahead and fix your phone by your self and save a bucket of money.
I worked like a charm, and didn't have to use windex for anything. Used the tongs that were send to me to grab everything so I barely touched the insides of the phone.
Thank you guys so much.
I will see you the next time something needs fixing.
Everything looks fine after 31+31 steps and 4 hours. Pay attention on reassembly step 30, make sure that all cabes are in the correct position before steps 29 and 28.
This guide was excellent. I managed to replace the home button no problems. You just need to look at the images of which you can blow up "excellent" and do as indicated.
I made a map on a piece of paper indicating where each item went so when putting it all back it was easy. Thanks for this guide I can finally enjoy the ease of using my home button once more.
Used this guide to replace a home button on my iPhone 4 which stopped working after the iPhone was out in the rain for 30 minutes. Worked like a charm. It was very hard but I took my time. Unfortunately, it didn't fix my problem. Upon further research, the dock connector was the culprit. It is where the home button plugs into. Replaced that using a guide here and now everything works great. So if your home button doesn't work after replacing the physical button, try replacing the dock connector.
Took 1hr no sweet. So much better now having a new home button that isnt sticky. Yus!!!
I used the gloves as recommended and it took just under an hour to break it down. Just over an hour to rebuild it.
Patience is the key and read all the instructions, they really are excellent.
Also, use the screw template and personally, I used "Magic Tape" to gently tape down each screw into it's coloured circle so they couldn't get knocked.
In my case (a launch day iPhone 4), one of the screws in the large EMI shield was captive. Other than that it was exactly as described
Great guide. Follow to the letter and you'll be home free. Let me emphasize even further that the ribbon component of the home button is VERY fragile. Although my profile says I realised the procedure successfully, I damaged the replacement part at the crucial moment. Very frustrating to say the least. So be EXTREMELY careful when manipulating the home button. :)
yanissauve, · Reply
Before you replace your home button, try searching on youtube on how to fix it with rubbing alcohol. I was about to order these parts and then stumbled on how to clean it with alcohol, which after doing several times (like 8) my home button has not misfired since.
OK, that was REALLY tricky. I had to back track twice to fix some of my mistakes. I didn't seat the camera properly and was unable to close the back of the phone. That wasn't too bad to fix. I had also folded a cable from the lcd to the logic board making it too short to reach, I had to step back many steps to resolve that. I also broke one of the 4 plastic clips on the front of the lcd that hold it in the frame. I hope you all have better luck. It was a tricky one but I'm happy with the results and this guide was very helpful and invaluable to completing this home button repair. Thanks ifixit!
bluespin42, · Reply
When removing the display assembly, try to slide the ipod opening tool to find a gap. It took me a while before I could detach the display from the body.
yibindeng29, · Reply
Just completed this last night in about an hour, directions were perfect!!! If you try this just make sure you have the right tools, the blue plastic shim tool is key. Having a nice screwdriver set that is magnetic was very helpful as well. Take your time and you should be fine. My home button works like a champ now! :-)
brooksuhrig, · Reply
I just completed this and now the LCD screen does not work. Any ideas what could have happened? Is it possible that I damaged the LCD/digitizer? The unit powers up, vibrates, and I can even hear it receive emails. LOL, help!
Same thing happened to me. Anyone have any ideas?
crap same thing happened to me :( I fixed the home button and the digitizer won't work now. story of my life.
I followed the directions explicitly and found them to be extremely accurate, however, getting the screen out was ridiculously difficult due to the adhesive as compared to how easy the video makes it seem.
I ended up having to use a spudger and push from inside of the phone behind where the rear facing camera would go.
gcoddington, · Reply
My original home button had to be pressed extremely hard in order to function so I installed a new one thinking that it was the problem. While replacing the button I noticed that the moisture indicator on the dock connector was pink, indicating that moisture had been inside the phone near the dock connector.
After replacing the home button however, there was no functionality at all. I thought that maybe the dock connector was to blame so I installed a new one. Still no home button functionality. I then reinstalled the original home button but kept the new dock connector and limited functionality returned (having to press extremely hard). What do you all think is goin' on?
kornkid4032, · Reply
Okay! First of all, the key thing in this process is loads of patience and Gud sorting. Seriously taking ur iPhone apart is tricky and u don't wanna mess up the screws here and dere so be careful.
Followed this guide from step 1 to 31 and back again, and voila my home button was working again...
Just a little tip abt the EMI fingers, they are extremely fragile, I broke one of mine, and had to tape it placing properly fr the proper contact.
Also make sure u have screwed down each bolt properly in place, becoz I wasn't able to close the lid after complete reassembly. Checked the screws and it all fit well finally.
Thnx a lot ifixit and other users for ur invaluable content and stuff.
I really feel like a worthy techie now. :P
Okay that took some time but got there after an hour and a half. Bit I found most difficult was reconnecting the ribbon from the actual new home button - I was trying to feed the ribbon under the clamp arm thingy itself rather than into the front of the assembly - dough. Once I realised that it all went smoothly...
What can I say — fantastic guide! It is hard, but definitely doable. Took me just over two hours and a lot of patience.
Just fixed my old iPhone using this guide, have also used ifixit guides for macs in the past and they are always infinitely helpful, there were a few tricky bits and it took longer than expected but well worth it. Great guide, thanks a lot ifixit!
Alex Wright, · Reply
Done! Boy, it took me 1.5 but done. Anyway don't forget guys it's quality that counts so don't hurry up, take your time & get light (lots of light above you). Get a coke and it will work it. I reassembled everything, turned it on and home button working yeah. Ouch, my screen was no more sensitive. I killed the digitizer cable. Lucky me I had another broken iPhone which i took the LCD and put it on my phone. (about 1.5 again to reassemble everything back)
Tip 1: I did the whole thing with Essential Electronics Toolkit and I had everything I needed.
Tip 2: Print Home_Button_Scr
Tip 3: Use a suction cup at step 28. It found it in my Essential Electronics Toolkit
Tip 4: I killed my digitizer cable at step 29 & 30. So please pay double attention there.
Tip 5: Get yourself a beer when finished :)
i already reassembly all the parts and the phone works perfectly but the back cover can not be slide down :(
the back cover sits perfectly but it just can not slide down
can anyone tell me the solution?
Ich habe die Batterie und den Home-button ersetzt und brauchte 1,5h dafür als Fein-Elektroniker.
Die seitlichen, grossen Gehäuse-Schrauben muss man nur anlösen und nicht komplett entfernen.
Seid sehr vorsichtig beim lösen und einstecken der Kabel. Und dass keine Flachbandkabel eingeklemmt werden.
Gruss MartinW
Followed the instructions and read some advice from the comment and have just completed it successfully! Saved me go knows how much money! Thank you!
A few things;
- I didn't have all the right sized screwdrivers but I got away with using a slotted driver for most of the smaller ones. (I brought a (rubbish) kit off ebay)
- I didn't use windex but I was especially careful not to touch to the contacts - seems to be fine.
- I printed off a few sheets with the Iphone layout on. and laid the screws out, a great way to keep track of what goes where.
- Took me about an hour and a half taking it very steady and checking everything. Take you time and it's reasonably straight forward.
Once again, thanks ifixit!
Peter Plant, · Reply
Fantastic, slow and steady. The only thing I would suggest is be extra careful at step 28 feeding the ribbon cables back through. they can get stuck easily and if you dont notice they can get pinched and break.
Otherwise perfect Thanks for the guide!
This is a great guide, thanks. Although this repair is not for the faint of heart (or unsteady of hand), with some perseverance, I was able to complete it successfully. My only suggestion is that you include some kind of warning that the home button ribbon cable retainer tab is _very_ fragile. It's also not completely clear from the pictures how the ribbon cable is affixed to the connector (the tongue of the ribbon cable slides under the connector). A tighter close up of the entire assembly, or perhaps an animated gif illustrating that part might be helpful.
The assemble steps are not included in this guide. I've done all the steps shows above smoothly, but when I tried to reassemble my iphone4, as I did not see the correct way of install it back, the touch sensor cable were broken, I have to bought another brandnew screen for my phone! And, there's quite a few tiny rubber parts in the phone, I just can't find any description about them, one of them were dropped out on my work table, I can't find the right place to put it back... hope there could be some hints for the assembling steps, especially for those tiny parts and cables need to be take care of...
Tried it, twice. When I plug the phone in mac usb port, I get a message saying that the usb port was trying to use too much power. And also, the phone is warmer than usual and battery is emptying very fast. I get the same message even without the battery pluged in.
Looks definitely as a short circuit but I have no clue from where...
Anybody can help me? Thanks!
Just replaced the back panel, installed home button mechanism and new battery - all went just as planned except...
I beheaded the battery connector screw! It all works at the moment. SO nice having the home button working properly again.
I also trapped the rear cable under the screen - I used a flathead screwdriver to push the fold through the slot. And the replacement back panel is not to Apple's original standards, but clean and clear none the less.
Great work iFixit!!!
great guide!!!
button replaced and now it's working again!! awesome.
a couple of tips though...
1. take your time!!! this phone has a ridiculous amount of tiny screw, washers, rubber thingies and what not... don't be against the clock.
2. almost no force is required in this!!! only part you should some force is when pulling out the display from the metal frame. and even there, a suction cup will greatly help you.
3. i did have some difficulties putting the logic board back, just try and wiggle it around until you see it is sitting nice and snug in there and all screw hole are aligned.
4. try to have a screen protector film on your display because most of your work will be with the display faced down. those things are like $1 so get one.
5. after your are done, test your speakers, vibrator, wifi, cellular reception, cameras and of course the home button.
6. tap yourself on the back and have a cold beer when you are done, you just disassembled and reassembled the entire phone almost completely.that is not easy.
jackhammer, · Reply
You guys rock!
Thank you so much for putting these instructions together.
I had a couple of tricky moments but my phone is working better than ever.
My frustrations have been eased and I couldn't be happier!
+This is not as difficult as you may think. It is, however, very time consuming. Expect it to take at LEAST a couple of hours.
+The guide should mention when you are taking off the screen it is glued down and requires very gradually prying it off a little at a time while you go around.
+Other than that it was pretty simple.
+Also latex gloves or keeping your hands clean of excessive oils is better than having to use windex.
+P.S. I purchased my parts from dx.com. They worked great!
Next time I'll pay for someone to fix it.
The iPhone won't turn on again... When I press the on button, there is some backlight on the screen (I can see it with the sim off), and then it turns off again.
Don't know what went bad. Any ideias?
Bruno Bahia, · Reply
Everything went well. Took me 3hours to tear it apart and back together. the only issue im having is that sometimes my screen won't turn on even thought the phone is on and im receiving text msg and calls. So each time i have to restart my phone by pressing the switch off and menu button(im glad i change it or else i wont be able to restart) anyone knows why this is happening? Some help please
thanks for your guide
make sure you put the connector correctly into the sockets - otherwise you will do the job twice :-)
using something like the 18-compartment tray will GREATLY help with this one; there are over a dozen groups of parts. For re-assembly having a digital calipers to measure the 2.4 vs the 2.6mm screws also helps greatly.
My method for hardware management during delicate phone surgery is to take and print out on 8.5"x11' paper, one or more pictures of the open phone in various stages of disassembly, and then tape the screws to the appropriate spots on the pictures. Also write numbers on the pictures next the screws to indicate the order in which you removed them.
I did a successful surgery on my iPhone, be warned this is not for the faint of heart!
I've done iPod screen replacements, battery replacements, this is by far much more difficult and intricate.
Great write up! Thanks a million.
Couldn't even get both screws out of the bottom of the case. One was easy and other refuses to budge. Screws so small I can't see if it is turning or screw driver is properly seated. Sad I too have done screen replacements on other phones. Don't know any secrets to get the screw out
I also have a problem with seeing what is happening with some of those tiny little screws and parts. For other projects that I do, I use an Opti-Visor. It slips over your head and provides 10x magnification. ( You can find them on Amazon).
Yeah, it adds cost to the project and you would have to wait for delivery, but it sure makes a world of difference in seeing what you are working with / on.
On an early iPhone 4 I found that the #000 Phillips bit included in the 54 Bit Driver Kit didn't actually fit the screws. However the JIS #000 also in the kit did fit quite well. This is due to the JIS bits "thinner" design to prevent camming out of the slot. Otherwise everything went well. Looking forward to replacing the battery in my other phone that has the pentalobe screws. Glad I got the 54 Bit kit!
At the very last second before insertion, the second new screw for the bottom popped out of my pliers! I dont' want to use the old ones, but I don't want to leave it with one screw. Can I get a replacement screw?
Otherwise it went together fine, and I figured out for myselkf that the contact needs to be bent,,,
What does the park that is gold and next to the 4.8mm screw for the antenna? Looks like I am missing that part and almost positive that is why I can't pick up or connect to any wifi signals. I have the screw and the antenna from another phone that is working and tried it on the broken phone and still doesn't work. Only thing different is that gold metal piece to the left of that 4.8 mm screw. Can I buy that part? how do I attach it?
Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board- for me this Phillips screw won't budge from its place have tried all the phillips combinations 000, 00, 0, 1 and the straight /slotted 1.5 mm but nothing. can some help me please purchased a replacement battery for my iPhone 4 but not able to do it just because of this screw.
Naved Zaidi, · Reply
I was going through the take apart and after reassembly, it seems to just sit there an power cycle. It's as though the battery is no longer working. Any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong?
I didn't need to remove the battery !! why would you take the battery away, the motor can be removed easily with the battery in place, and the whole process would take less than 2 minutes if you exclude the battery steps
Installed new battery without a problem. Now it does not hold a charge for more than 4 hours. Phone works fine but what did I do wrong?
Mary OBrien, · Reply
There is a small black L-shaped bracket of some sort that tits between the battery connector and the motherboard socket, with a loop on one corner that sits betwen the riserand the battery connector. Remove this now, and do not forget to re install it on assembly.
In Step 5 be EXTRA careful with the battery connector as the socket can come off extremely easy. This can mess up the replacement a little bit and cost you extra. Otherwise, this guide is excellent.
Good luck, fixers!
I fix(ed) it!
mateuszkus, · Reply
use the iPod opening tool to pry gently under the battery from the outer edge of the phone and work towards the plastic tab. the tab is not actually attached to the battery itself, but a plastic sheet between the battery and inner frame. the adhesive on the battery tends to be under the edge of the battery nearest the center of the phone.
This i think is the most diffucult part.
Because they use so much glue on it. I have to did this with so much force.
Glad that i didn't kill the circuit board when i took this out.
Shoung0690, · Reply
My battery was so firmly glued in, it took a long time to slowly pry it loose. Patience is the key to this process. I could see easily damaging the circuit board by using too much force. The plastic tab did not help at all.
The ribbon cable attaching the new battery to the battery connector clip is longer than the original. I clicked the clip into the socket first and then was very careful to fold the excess while putting the battery back in so the ribbon cable didn't kink. One kink in this could sever the battery leads.
My ribbon cable was also longer than the original. How did you get it to not kink while placing the batter back into the phone? That seems to be my only hang up at the moment
Piece of cake! The hardest part was being sure the outer pentalobe screws were actually turning and I wasn't stripping them. Battery was glued firmly in, so I loosened it from the outside instead of using the plastic pull-tab. I pre-bent the battery connector neck before putting it back in and had no problems with it fitting in. Getting the battery connector aligned with the antenna piece underneath was a bit fiddly. Got the case back on, put in the new screws, and powered the phone on without problem. Had 40% charge, all seems well. Yippee!
chezbuttons, · Reply
Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue.
The reason why I say don't use an implement to try lift the battery is because far too many times I've seen punctured & bent batteries come in to this workshop that have to be thrown out for safety reasons. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire.
Just use a bit of heat ( not a lot! ) to soften up the glue and it'll come away with the plastic pull tab.
These instructions don't mention putting the 2.5mm screw back in. I found this very challenging because it is so short, so very difficult to line it up to get it back in the hole, and very easy to drop it inside the phone. Take care.
robshopping, · Reply
Non problem with reassembly - just took patience - my is that the phone now does not want to charge the battery. It shows taht the battery is dead and charger needs to be connected but does not charge?
What have I not done coreectly - or at least what can I check to determine the problem?
I had trouble with my SIM card at this point. It wouldn't go all the way in - only about 1mm short but enough to keep the phone from being able to read it. It seems that the red screw in this step is the culprit. I loosened it up a bit and the SIM card tray was able to fit flush.
Make sure not to pry too much under the flex cable because you will likely damage the gold / silver shining adhesive tape that is located beneath it.
The guide is missing a comment on this and one would not expect the tape there. Check out the photos of step 10 to get an idea of how the tape looks like.
I assume this to be some kind of head-conductive component.
It won't be much of a problem if you damage parts of it though.
But if you peel off / coil up too much of it, it could get too big and the flex cable could get damaged when it's pressed against it.
NOTE: When replacing the logic board, be sure this antenna remains exposed and doesn't become trapped under the board.
charlesholt, · Reply
Yeah, would like to know the value of the little blue inductor ... my iPhone 4 doesn't have it any more and I have the worst signal.
PressureFM, · Reply
I wasn't sure how to carefully detach the antennae. Can anyone offer some insight on how to reattach the antennae? Is it supposed to be soldered to the board? Or is it a pin attachment?
see that tiny little blue thing just to the left of the antenna connector but before the screw? make sure you DON'T knock that out of place otherwise your iphone becomes a heavy ipod touch (yes. this idiot made that mistake while struggling to get the antenna connector back in - which for the record just clips back in). this would have been a handy tip for me while i was reading the instructions, which apart from that little trinket of information, were very easy to follow.
Be careful, I almost damaged this specific screw by using a Phillips #00 screwdriver. It's screwed in tighter than most others. You will need a Phillips #000 or else your #00 has to be a really sharp one.
The cross on top of the screw on my phone is all messed up - not from me stripping it, it just looks like a manufacturing error. The screwdriver won't even fit into the screw, and I can't get it out (I have no idea how they got it in in the first place). Any suggestions?
same here, screw stripped any suggestions?
Couple of ways to get rounded-out-head screws;
1) use a tiny drop of super glue on the top place your screwdriver on the drop/screw, then sprinkle a bit of bicarb-soda on to the wet super glue, it'll harden very rapidly and form a fillet; wait a minute and you should be able to then unscrew the screw.
Be VERY CAREFUL when doing this, because you don't want to have superglue wicking between the screw and the circuit board.
Perhaps practice on some other things first.
I've removed several like this before; frequently I find the culprits for rounded out slots are ham-fisted people trying to do their own repairs in the past.
Get a set of these precision screw extractors. I own a small electronics repair shop and I wouldn't be without them. If you buy them remember that the ends are reversible in case you dull one end. http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Precision-Sc...
Be careful about the very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw - it can spring out when the shield is removed. It must be reinserted prior to installing the shield, with the thick part up and the spring in contact with the gold pad to the right of the screw hole in the case.
INCREDIBLE! Steve this probably happens to people all the time. The "very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw" I will elaborate on. It's not so much around the 4.8mm screw as it actually part of the assembly where the 4.8 mm screw is tightened. I added an arrow to this picture to visually illustrate:
I had no wifi at all until this was present. I had overlooked the piece and spent hours trying to figure out where it went. BIG THANK YOU to Steve for his comment. After fixing, my wifi was perfect.
When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless. Steve or someone -- can you explain what is meant by this? My LCD and digitizer now does not work, but I don't think I have any screws in the wrong place.
I have the same issue than David. Could anyone elaborate on the brief note in the manual? Thank you!
There is a washer under the plate that is held together by the 1.4mm Philips. This might come loose. Be careful not to lose it.
Confirming this. It's not in the description and it came out when I disconnected the screw. At first I was unsure where it came from, but when I reassembled the phone, the yellow screw didn't make contact, so I realized the washer had to go under the contact plate.
So that small washer behind the 1.4 screw became detached during reassembly. What affect does this have? My phOne started to overheat; I then turned off my wifi and things are fine.. How is this related you think?
Somehow i twisted the head off of the 4.8mm screw (ground) during reassembly and not i have terrible wifi. Trying to come up with a solution.... any suggestions?
racaruso90, · Reply
On my phone the "washer" that the 1.4mm screw goes into I think is actually the mounting post that had come detached. I realize afterwards there was therefore no point removing this screw, but I did remove (and put it back afterwards) by holding onto the loose post/washer with tweezers to prevent it turning.
The "washer" that a few of the commenters have mentioned isn't a washer nor a broken post. It is a circular nut that helps the WiFi antenna get a good connection to the logic board. It is part of a sandwich: 1.4mm screw head logic board ++ circular nut. I held it in place with tweezers and then screwed the 1.4mm screw in. Don't lose this nut!
When I came to reassemble at this step, I noticed the 1.4mm screw no longer had anything to screw to. The nut or washer or whatever it is that you mention has gone. My screen does not work any more. Is this connected and/or is there anything I can do to peplace what is lost?
This screw is supposed to tie into a very small nut that sits under a small u-shaped tab in the EMI shield that is fixed to the PCB. Maybe that nut has moved or got lost. I recommend you to lift that small tab to find it because if loose it could create a short-circuit.
But that screw/nut is absolutely not essential to the LCD. It should work without it.
watch for the connector cover here - it tends to be quite "springy" and may fly towards you when you attempt to release the clips
Be Careful of a tiny metal piece attached to the black bit on top that acts as the screw spot for the blue screw. I just slid it back on. Hopefully no harm done.
do you have a photo or description?
the rear camera has an extra long tab which runs under the digitizer cable - be careful not to bend this while removing the camera.
There was no screw underneath the warranty sticker or even a place for a screw. Disappointed.
Ed Wiliams, · Reply
I removed by accident the other white sticker on the logic board. What happens now? Will the phone work?
It won't hurt anything.
Windex didn't work well for me for degreasing the connections. It made the connections worse in fact. Now my digitizer AND my screen don't work.
It seems that you misunderstood the notes throughout the guide. You should only clean metal to metal contact points, such as the contact area between the EMI fingers and the metal case on the speaker enclosure. Applying Windex in connectors or sockets of any type will almost certainly destroy components in your phone.
When re-plugging the yellow connector (the leftmost of the 3 connectors that you disconnected from the top) put the cables behind and not before the metal part with a hole where the EMI Shield 2 clips in. Otherwise you will not be able do step 13.
Be carefull of a very small component soldered near the yellow connector. It can pop off and make your front camera irresponsive.
When reassembling, the various connectors have a leading plastic lip that allows you to align and then slowly snap in place. i pushed on the pads on top of the connectors with the flat tool provided in the kit. Also, the first time, i did not press the LCD cable very well, so the phone was working, but no display showing. once i snapped this in place the second time, it worked like a charm.
After reassembly, when I changed to the front camera, the display got stuck in shutter mode. The website bellow suggests I lost a microscopic jumper that enables the front camera. I am guessing this happened when I disconnected the 3 connectors. The dang jumper is so small I never even noticed that I lost it. Oh well at least the rear camera still works... http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/54838...
I ran into a not workin front camera after a screen replacement on Iphone4. I found out that I had broken the tiny jumper on the main board when I pried off the headphone plug. That jumper is next to the right upper corner of the headphone/volum
The smallest screw below the Digitizer connector is held by a tiny nut which is fixed below the EMI shield. Beware because this thing can get loose easily.
Is this it? http://i.imgur.com/AQlJS8g.jpg
I believe that's the one he's referring to...
Image of rectangular rubber piece
Thank you Rajan for this picture. The rubber piece fell out and i was frantically trying to find its spot.
Yes! Thanks for this pic! I found this little piece in the body of the phone after I removed the logic board and was stumped! Real lifesaver!
I have found that the easiest way to remove these standoffs is to loosen them with a 2.0 or 2.3 mm standard (flat) blade driver bit. Then, once it is loose, you can either loosen it the rest of the way, or for better control, insert your pentalobe driver into the center of it and loosen it the rest of the way. If your pentalobe driver won't turn it, then it is not loose enough, or the end of one of the small screws has broken off in it (actually fairly common).
Best of luck to you! Just ask if you need more info!
Missing rubber guard can causing touchscreen sensitivity & accuracy problem.
Do not forget the rubber piece. When replacing my home button, I noticed this rubber piece fall out of the phone, and couldn't figure out where it went. I left it out, and my touchscreen had all sorts of problem. I thought I had damaged the digitizer ribbon. I even bought a new screen and had similar problems after putting that in. I finally put a makeshift piece of rubber that I cut up into the spot where this rubber piece had gone, and currently haven't had problems for over a week. This rubber piece must suppress interference problems of some kind.
Great point! I had the logic board put back in and then found this little thing hanging out. I found a "tip" on a different site that showed it going between the rear-facing camera and the logic board! Thanks!
Can we get a better photo of where rubber piece goes? Mine fell off, and I have no idea where to put it back on to.
It goes on the edge of the logic board where the Digitizer and LCD Panel ribbon cables bend over the Logic Board before they plug into it. The rubber piece protects the ribbon cables from chafing like a bumper and from interferance.
You can see it on the upper left of the Logic Board, just to the right of the camera in the photo for Step 18. It is easier to see if you click on the view huge link to blow up the photo.
Ear piece metal connectors: You can see them on step 22. If those are not bent up enough (laying flat) you won't have contact with the logic board... and no more audio from the ear piece. This is what happened to me. I had to unmount it again to bend them and hop the ear piece worked again!
This was a very tricky part. Just make sure that you don't put pressure on the login board to get it into place, take your time and ease it in. There will be a bit of spring in it when you push down which is a combination of the folded LCD and Digitizer Ribbon Cables and the two copper contacts underneath.
This was absolutely the hardest part - had to do it over many times. The digitizer ribbon cable kept insisting on folding up under the logic board. Tip: do not let the cable fold up, even it that's how it naturally wants to go, it will be too short.
Agreed. I broke mine off the first time I removed it.
Scott Head, · Reply
Me too, are they that important, can i put it back together without them?
'and then there were THREE' yup i broke off one as well. hint on re-assembly; put in the speaker box, and working from left to right, apply a fair amt of downward pressure and use a tiny flat-blade screwdriver to push the tip of the emi fingers toward the speaker box, go left to right so you can put in the screw on the right side when done.
I broke 2 of the 4 off (both on the left side) and haven't noticed any difference in the functioning of the phone.
I broke off the right-most one (closest to the microphone) and after reassembly my signal strength was poor and dropped easily. I replaced the antenna/speaker unit with one from a 4s (the cable was a touch longer; but, solved with some bending) and made sure to really clean the contacts (and not break any)... long story short, intact fingers and cleaning has resulted in better signal strength than prior to the repair! go figure!
I agree they are very fragile! I broke off 1 EMF finger by pressing it down - wish i had read comments 1st! Phone still seems to work Ok, but gave me a scare.
There is a square, metal bar that fits into a slot on the right side of the vibrator. The 1.4mm screw threads into this bar. It fell out when I first flipped it over the phone to remove the screen. Look out for that.
When I removed the screw from here I also found a small rubber piece. It is about 8mm long and 2mm wide, and it has a channel down the centre of it. I couldn't figure out where it came from but the phone seems to be perfectly fine without it. I thought it could possibly be some sort of anti-vibration damper for the vibrator although I am not sure. I couldn't see it in any of the pictures.
The Talent, · Reply
If your objective is to remove the front panel only, you do not need to remove any of the "large-headed" 1.5 mm Phillips screws, but only loosen them slightly. Putting these screws back can be quite a hassle, and there's really no need for it. When replacing the front panel, take care of the position of the washers (they should be in between the case and screw head.
i tried using the 'only loosen' method on half, and found out because of the washers, they interfered during reassembly. it was very easy to replace them by setting the phone down on its side (propped up so as not to tip) and use a tweezer to put in the washer then screws, it was simple.
I used tweezers. Worked great. Til i applied too much pressure and one of the washers went whizzing away into oblivion.
I also used very fine tweezers (from a swiss army knife) to hold the washer and screw from the side as I positioned the screw over the hole, and then placed carefully the screwdriver tip onto the screw before releasing. worked fine. I found this the hardest part of the whole reassemble process.
If it's square then it could be the piece that sits next to the dock connector on top of the little black speaker? Do you have a photo of it?
This is the photo:
Any idea where this goes?
Found it. It's clearly mentioned in step 18.
Great guide. When you are prying the glass screen off be extremely careful not to lift the top of the too high. If you do lift it too high then the glass at the bottom of the phone will easily crack.
If you do have to replace the Camera Ring, I find it much easier to put some double sided 3m on the Display where the ring would go, then put the ring ON the camera, not the display. Also if you need to replace the camera ring, your prob gonna have to replace the ear screen, its easier in the long run just to replace it. Please do not glue either piece on.
This is the only part that was a little tricky for me. When I was reinstalling the LCD panel it took me a few tries to get the connectors and cables through the holes correctly, and not pinched by the frame. Take it slow and be gentle.
jefferydunn, · Reply
This part was very tricky because you need to make sure you have enough slack from the LCD and Digitizer cables. Take your time to make sure that the cables are fully through, even the slightest pinch will be enough for this to not reach and you have to redo it again (a massive pain if you've already started the reassembly. - A good way to test this is to before you reassemble try placing the logic board on top where the LCD and Digitizer cables will fit into, if they reach fine then you are good, if not then adjust the cables again until you know they are through completely, this saves you having to disassemble again if its not correct. - Good Luck and Take your time!
For some reason when I put the phone back together the screen is dark on the upper left corner. The touch sensitivity works perfectly and the button replacement went well.
Take a look at step 31. it shows him prising off the socket with the tool. why? Your not meant to do that, and I broke my iPhone following this. all you have to do is disconnect the ribbon. you don't lift anything up!
Hi oranjj, I did the same :-( can you do anything about it? Did you get yours fixed?
The picture is right. There is a very very tiny tab that needs to be lifted, so the socket releases the flex cable. It's barely noticeable but it's there. After replacing the home button you connect the new flex cable and then you lower the socket tab again to secure it. I'm sorry you broke yours :-/
@oranjj actually you should lift up the small plastic retainer flap which locks the ribbon in or you won't be able to lock the new one in, the warning does explain you don't lift the whole thing
Leigh Ellis, · Reply
this step is the most difficult part of the entire process. a closeup photo or two of how this connector works would be very useful. i nearly destroyed mine too!
garymohr001, · Reply
My home button had gone really bad and had to be pushed hard so I installed a complete new button w/socket cable.
I followed the guide and lifted the ribbon retainer before removing/insert
Now there's no functionality at all?! .. :(
Any ideas?
me too! did you ever hear back from anyone?
I really don't understand how to put the home button back. I finally was able to get the old homebotton with cable out...though I am affraid I broke something.
Getting the new one is, is a pain in the $#$ and does not keeps in position. Is there a way to obtain a new socket? Or are there other posibilities?
I have the same problem. Getting the cable out was no problem, but getting it in again does not work. I think my socket is okay but I cannot connect the button again... The cable still does not get in... :-/
Putting the new home cable in the socket was impossible. After pushing and wriggling for half an hour on the old cable to see how to get it back in, I gave up, put the new one in as far as possible, put the clip down and put the phone back together in the hope that it was I'm far enough. Turns out, it was!
Reversing instructions is not that simple. Some photos or more notes on how things go back would be great.
That said, I am so grateful these guides exist. Thank you!
Well, I too separated the "socket itself" because I thought it was a pushdown connector instead of sizeways ZIF. First attempt to put it back in place with superglue ended in a non-working home button (although the phone was still usable via Settings/Genera
In my second attempt I removed the suplerglue and, with a fine soldering iron, very carefully, reconnected the socket in place by soldering the two back leads and (perhaps) one or two of the front leads. And now it works! Just afraid that if I drop the phone the hole thing will come apart, but for the moment I remain a happy camper.
Very many thanks for the guide, but please add a statement in Step 31 about the ribbon cable having to slide out of the socket horizontally, since the pictures are misleading.
Putting the cable back into the connector is not easy. I broke the cable off the *old* button and played around to see how it all worked before attempting to fit the new one. I would recommend doing this as a few dummy runs of plugging them together makes it clear. Important to remember, the tiny, almost invisible, clip on the socket is up open, down locked.
If you have a lit magnifying glass, use it.
The guide did not specify which part of the home button ribbon cable to squeeze when installing it, so the moment I tried to put in the new home button, I used my tweezers to squeeze the flat part of the home button ribbon—which was a terrible mistake, because on the other side of the ribbon were the two small transistors (or whatever) that I demolished instantly. As a result, I had to clean and reinstall my old button. :(
Thank you. I have a full light grey area on the right screen side (same position as the logic board). What could it be? Please Help.
Thank you,
I have the exact same problem ! didi you find a solution ?
Took 2 hours to tear apart and back together. Had to redo some steps over. 1) Crushed ribbon cable when putting screen back on. Found out when ribbon cable wasn't long enough to reach connection. 2) Got antenna connector stuck under logic board, had to undo logic board to pluck it out.
Phone works, but like most of my tear down projects, I have an extra part left over after reassembly. It's a small bit of rubber insulation that looks like it should clip to some metal edge. I couldn't figure out where it belongs, hope it's not critical. :)
That sounds like the bit at step 18 ?
I'm also confused about the plastic film. I removed the plastic film from the back of my new home button and the silver disk came off with it - the disk is not glued on to the home button. When I put the new button in place I tried as best I could to keep the disk in the same position it was in before I took the plastic off.
The new home button works OK (I only have to press 2x for it to respond) but it doesn't move at all when I press it.
Should I have left the plastic on? Is the little silver disk necessary? should i have glued the silver disk back on to the home button?
I want to go back and re-do it, but not until I have a better understanding of what to do.
Is there any answer to the plastic film question?? Everything was so thorough till the end. Now I'm at step 33 with my phone 100% disassembled and not sure if the film that holds the silver disc should stay or go!!
Ok, helpful follow up here, the film I can only assume is something that may be on the front of the button. The film over the silver disc in the back stays. I just reassembled mine with that film on and home button is perfect. After examining the old home button, I realized that had a film too(just harder to see)
in order to replace the home button only .....is it necessary to follow and do all the previous steps from 1 to 33 or just do some of them ?please help me


text:
News – latest
SABMiller to double capacity in Uganda with construction of new US$80m brewery
9 February 2012
SABMiller plc [SAB:LSE/SAB:JNB] today announces a US$80m investment in a new brewery at its Ugandan subsidiary, Nile Breweries (NBL), doubling the company's design capacity to 3.6m hectolitres by 2013. The new brewery will be constructed in Mbarara in western Uganda, the fastest-growing regional beer market in the country, with the site chosen as the optimum location to meet the increasing local demand.
The development of the new brewery follows a US$29m investment to expand capacity at the existing Jinja site in 2009 and a cumulative US$25.6m investment to develop maltings and effluent treatment plants in 2011, bringing the total capex for the country to over US$130m over the last three years.
The total Ugandan beer market is also in significant growth, up 28% for the 12 months to the end of December 2011, driven by strong economic growth and population expansion. Average per capita beer consumption is still relatively low at around 8 litres per year, compared to an average of around 60 litres in South Africa.
The Mbarara site will employ around 140 people directly and will brew the bulk of NBL's portfolio of beers, including Nile Special, Club Pilsener, Eagle Extra and Eagle Lager. Eagle beers are currently brewed using sorghum, a locally grown crop sourced from 9,000 smallholder farmers. The new brewery in Mbarara will provide an additional market opportunity for farmers in the Ankole and Kigezi regions, near Mbarara. It is anticipated that a total of 26,000 jobs will be supported in the wider economyi by the new brewery.
Mark Bowman, Managing Director of SABMiller Africa, said: "This is a tremendous development for Nile Breweries and demonstrates our commitment to further investing in Africa. The Mbarara Brewery will double our country-wide production capacity, create a significant number of jobs in the local economy and provide a secure revenue stream for local farmers. The development is also testament to the success of our local raw material sourcing strategy in Uganda, which has provided a blueprint for other operations across Africa, most recently with the world's first commercial cassava-based beer in Mozambique."
The development site is on the banks of the River Rwizi which will provide the water source for the brewery. The project includes state-of-the-art water and effluent treatment and will support SABMiller's group-wide aim to increase its water efficiency.
i Job multiplier assumptions calculated by Professor Ethan Kapstein of INSEAD & Dr Rene Kim of Steward Redqueen in their Socio-Economic Impact Study of Nile Breweries' operations in Uganda for the year ended March 2011.
Notes to editors
SABMiller plc is one of the world's largest brewers with brewing interests and distribution agreements across six continents. The group's wide portfolio includes global brands such as Pilsner Urquell, Peroni Nastro Azzurro, Miller Genuine Draft and Grolsch, as well as leading local brands such as Aguila, Castle, Miller Lite, Snow and Tyskie. SABMiller is also one of the world's largest bottlers of Coca-Cola products.
In the year ended 31 March 2011, the group reported US$4,491 million of adjusted pre-tax profit and group revenue of US$28,311 million. SABMiller plc is listed on the London and Johannesburg stock exchanges.
High resolution images are available for the media to view and download free of charge from www.sabmiller.com/imagelibrary or http://www.newscast.co.uk/
Broadcast footage is available in internet or SD/HD quality for download free of charge from www.sabmiller.com/broadcastfootage
SABMiller plc
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SABMiller plc
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Corporate Media Relations Manager
SABMiller plc
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text:
There's No Straight Line to Success
There's No Straight Line to Success
It's tempting to visualize your goals right ahead of you, but there's no direct route. Set incremental objectives to succeed and stay sane.
Video Transcript
00:11 Marc Ecko: If you look in nature or at your own body, I would challenge you to try to find a straight line. They don't exist. Nature does not create straight lines. But yet somehow, because we went, and when we were all sentenced to that K through 12 period of our lives, we try to manage our expectations in straight lines. And too often, the trappings for founders, creators, artists is that they visualize where they want to go to and this destination, and they see it straight in front of them, when in reality it's over here.
00:52 Ecko: Why would you work to try to build your expectations in a straight path? You're constantly gonna be emotionally distraught. You're constantly gonna be beating yourself up, when in fact, you should be contemplating the steps in shorter increments. It seems like common sense, but we're all guilty of it. Because we get that instant gratification and that envy, the emotional envy, when you read about your competitor, and it seems like they're articulating, they're getting there faster than you. When you're baked, you're baked, right? Stop trying to bake and serve it before it's ready.
MARC ECKO: A former graffiti artist armed only with hustle, sweat equity, and creativity, Marc Eckō flipped a $5,000 bag of cash into a global corporation now worth hundreds of millions of dollars. Eckō is an American fashion designer, entrepreneur, investor, and artist. He founded Marc Eckō Enterprises, a global fashion and lifestyle company. He is also the founder and chairman of Complex Media, the world's leading provider of fashion, entertainment, lifestyle, and product trends to young male tastemakers. Eckō serves as an emeritus board member to the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Big Picture Learning, and Tikva Children's Home. His book, Unlabel: Selling You Without Selling Out, came out in September 2013.


text:
CONNECT Colleges announce one-stop access to interns
On January 7, 2013, the Presidents and Chancellor of the five CONNECT colleges and universities in Southeastern Massachusetts announced the CONNECTLink internship portal. The portal will give the region's employers one-stop access to the student talent of the five colleges and universities.
"That's the role of public higher education," stated CONNECT Chair and Massasoit Community College President Charles Wall. "To meet the needs of our region, and to meet the needs of our students." Dr. Wall adds that CONNECTLink project has three goals: to increase the total number of internship listings at each of the five campuses, to expand the population of students who participate in internships while in college, and to build the number of students finding employment in their fields upon graduation.
Bristol Community College has a well-developed Co-op program. BCC President John Sbrega notes, "Internships are a great opportunity, both for the students and for the employers. Students get hands-on professional experience in the workplace, and employers get the chance to try out prospective employees."
CONNECT Executive Director Kathleen Kirby notes that as a part of the process of planning the portal, all five campuses had to take a serious look at the way that they organized the internship, student employment, and career services offices on their campus to streamline access for employers. "CONNECTLink is focused on promoting internships, but the portal also gives employers a way to publicize part-time and full-time jobs."
Posting jobs is two-step process; employers first have to set up a profile, and then they can post individual job and internship listings. Approvals are determined by the individual policies at each of the campuses.
The CONNECTLink Internship Portal can be found on the CONNECT website: www.connectsemass.org.
CONNECT is a partnership of five public higher education institutions in Southeastern Massachusetts (Bridgewater State University, Bristol, Cape Cod, and Massasoit Community Colleges, and University of Massachusetts-Dartmouth). CONNECT's mission is to improve the quality, accessibility and affordability of higher education, and to advance the economic, educational and cultural life of Southeastern Massachusetts.


text:
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Customer Reviews (9)
Jacqueline Martinez
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I'm really disappointed in this product. It clouts that it, "primes, conceals, mattifies, brightens and perfects", but it did none of these things for me. I had to use a separate primer, concealer, powder, and even another foundation on top of it to get a decent result. The application was spotty at best (I gave up on the brush in favour of a sponge) and it is anything but "weightless". I'm lucky to have nice skin to begin with so a foundation of this "calibre" and cost should have preformed a lot better than it did. I'm out $46 and I will not be re-purchasing.
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I decided to try this product after thinking about it for a couple weeks. The previous reviews aren't great, but I'm glad I decided to try it anyway! It's awesome! The coolest part imo is that it's versatile. Apply it with the included brush for light coverage, apply with a sponge for more coverage. I can see why it's called "Air-buffed", it primes, perfects, and mattifies all at the same time. To sum it up, I think this product is well worth $39. It totally makes it possible to skip a step or two in my beauty routine - tried w/o primer and w/o finishing powder with great results. I recommend!
A really lovely foundation. Feels light and creamy, you can tell straight away it's is high quality. Perfect coverage, my skin looks airbrushed, I feel beautiful! Being a teenager my skin isn't brilliant and is sometimes flawed, so this foundation was perfect for me. Heavy coverage but doesn't make my skin worse. I love it.
Not as much coverage as I would like but it is a bb cream not a foundation. It stayed all day through work & most of the evening but didn't feel heavy or unnatural. I did have to use my large foundation brush but the added brush is great for travel or contouring. I'm very happy with this product & will purchase again!
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Love this product! Typically, I don't write reviews but this one deserves it and the 5 stars. The product made my oily skin soft and non-oily all day long, the color matched perfect (snow glow), and the application was relatively easy. In addition to oily skin I also have blemishes and find this product covers and heals it very well. I haven't had this product for very long so I cannot speak on the ease of cleaning the brush, however I can see how it may be difficult.
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text:
MP Biomedicals
MP Biomedicals is dedicated to giving scientists and researchers innovative, quality tools and superior service to aid them in their quest for ground-breaking discovery and turning the hope for life-changing solutions into a reality.
The company manufactures and sells more than 55,000 products and is one of the only companies in the industry to offer a comprehensive line of life science, fine chemical and diagnostic products.
MP Biomedicals is a world-wide corporation, with ISO-certified and FDA-approved manufacturing and distribution facilities throughout the globe and headquartered in Southern California. A vast network of global distributors and satellite facilities and offices throughout Europe, Asia, Australia and the Americas assures customers top quality products delivered when and where needed.
No matter how dynamic the evolution of the life science and biotechnology markets, we remain committed to supporting our customers in their efforts to make new discoveries. From basic research, through scale-up, to full-scale production and diagnostic testing, MP Biomedicals serves every industry need – from specialized areas of research to supplying large scale quantities of fine chemicals.
Our customers partner with us because they want a long-time player and reliable colleague in the fields of life science research and diagnostics. MP Biomedicals will never rest in our odyssey to remain at the forefront of discovery in the ever-changing biomedical industry.
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To be seen as an authority on SelectScience, find your products to review today., Univ North Carolina-Pembroke
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To be seen as an authority on SelectScience, find your products to review today., University Of Vermont
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Virus Titer Determination from Cells and Tissues an Example of Selective HomogenizationMP Biomedicals
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text:
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text:
The Portable Dante
Dante Alighieri - Author
Mark Musa - Translator
Mark Musa - Editor/introduction
Mark Musa - Notes by
Paperback | $21.00 | add to cart | view cart
ISBN 9780142437544 | 704 pages | 29 Jul 2003 | Penguin Classics | 5.27 x 7.79in | 18 - AND UP
Additional Formats:
- eBook - ePub eBook: $14.99
Summary of The Portable Dante Summary of The Portable Dante Reviews for The Portable Dante An Excerpt from The Portable Dante
The scope and fire of Dante's genius in a single volume
Dante Alighieri paved the way for modern literature, while creating verse and prose that remain unparalleled for formal elegance, intellectual depth, and emotional grandeur. The Portable Dante contains complete verse translations of Dante's two masterworks, The Divine Comedy and La Vita Nuova, as well as a bibliography, notes, and an introduction by eminent scholar and translator Mark Musa.
Translated and edited by Mark Musa.
Translator's Note
The Divine Comedy
Vita Nuova
Selected Bibliography
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text:
The USD 490 Board of Education approved two resolutions Thursday morning
The purpose of the committee is to coordinate all of the water issues for the future of Butler County residents
The lull in our breezes that we were hoping for today has been snatched away from us once again. Sustained winds are now expected to range from about 13-18 mph with a period this afternoon where gusts could reach close to 30 mph. Fortunately, we are...
George Trimble Trust presentation
Trying to recover money from a defaulted loan has led to legal hot water for Augusta Progress Inc.
Word of the Dayincipient \ in-SIP-ee-uhnt \ adjective; Beginning to exist or appear. � Dictionary.comWebsite of the DayFuture Timelinewww.futuretimeline.net
Readers share opinions
My husband has tried to cure me of my germ-wariness
SALINA—Andover Central had a decision to make after the first quarter of Friday's Class 4A Division I semifinal against Bishop Miege.
Warm, dry conditions contributed to grass fires and a busy week for firefighters in the county.
Pogue and his fellow Skylabbers wanted more time to think
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