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In my opinion, the most vital component of a computer is the power suppply unit or PSU. Many times when a psu fails, it produces a voltage spike that can damage or even short out other parts of your system. thats why buying a quality Psu is very important. There are 2 parts to this guide, part I is a simplified version of part II, which is more technical and goes into the depths and explains why i suggested what i did in part I. I. PSU's simplified (under construction) Heres some stuff you want to look for in a psu: first off, you want a psu from a good company, heres a list of good companies: (note that the number order doesn't matter) Antec(Neohe, Truepower trio, earthwatts, solution, basiq, & quattro series) Akaska Bfg Corsair Enermax* Enhance ePower Fsp/Forton/Sparkle Muskin Ocz Pc Power & Cooling Scythe Seasonic Silverstone [ABS] Tagan Zalman Wattage: Use this calculator to determine how much wattage your psu should have: http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp. please note that the calculator will overexaggerate the wattage, but you should buy a psu with the wattage suggested because you want to have a few extra watts in the case that you upgrade, etc. Amperage: For a single video card system, you want to have about ~20-35 amps depending on how many things you have in your system.(generally amd systems require more amperage, and you want more amps if you have all the dimm slots full,etc.) you want to have about ~40+ amps for a multi video card system(sli/crossfire). II. The Nutshell Expanded. Here are some important things to look into for psu's: Wattage:You want to make sure that the PSU you're getting had enough power to run your system. eXtreme has an excellent PSU calculator, you can find the lite version here: http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp This calculator will overexaggerate the wattage but this is a good thing, because . electronics are not ideal and you always want to have extra head room. capacitors(caps) will degrade over time and loose their holding capacity, and therefore, the capacity of the psu will diminish overtime. Amps: heres some good amp amounts: for a standard system(mid tower case) you want a combined amperage of ~25 amps on the 12v rail. for a high end system (full tower case), you want a combined amerpage of ~30 amps on the 12v rail. for a sli/crossfire system, you want a combined amperage of ~40 amps on the 12v rail. Sadly there is a major problem about the psu wattage and amperage. you cannot trust the psu label most of the time. first of all, there are 2 main types of wattage that you may find on the label. the first one, is the peak wattage. yohttp://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?p=583442#post583442 Upgrade for an old PC - techPowerUp! Forumsu can only run at this wattage for a very short time and possibly cause damage to the psu running at this wattage. the second one, is the maximum continous wattage. this is the higher wattage you can continously run at. Another thing is, at what temperature are these wattages determined at? Some brands determine the wattage at unrealistic temperatures such as 0C whereas other companies determine the wattage at realistic temperatures such as 40-50c, which would be around the actual operating temperature of a PSU. so which do you pick a psu with a peak wattage of 500w @ 0C or a psu with a max. continous wattage of 500w @50c? now the problem is, you wont be offered that question when going psu shopping. Another thing is that the labels can just be plain wrong. for example, the amps stated may added up to be way more then what the wattage is stated, and this can be determined using the simple formula, Wattage=Amperage*Voltage (W=AV),(voltage being 12v,3v,5v,etc.) for example, a label might say that it can supply 380W of power over 2 12v rails, each one carrying 20A. however by plugging the wattage and voltage into the formula we get V=~32amps. so while the rails may be able to carry 20A each, you cannot expect more then 32 Amps, and that is 32Amps assuming that your psu is running at the temperature that was used to determine the numbers on the label and assuming that the label is for the maximum continous wattage. some companies such as PC Power & Cooling are very confident in their products and clearly state "470W @ 40C (520W peak)" so that you know at 40C, you'll be able to get a full 470W out of the psu with a peak wattage of 520W. Here you can also see the big gap between the maximum continous wattage and the peak wattage. PFC: its always a good thing to have active PFC, PFC or Power Factor Correction helps improve the efficency of a PSU, so that your PSU uses less electricity. With active PFC, there is also no need to set the voltage, it will automatically correct itself Passive PFC is not very efficent, and it cannot use the full potential of the ac line. Passive PFc requires you to set the voltages as well. While PSu's with Active PFC are more expensive to build, they are definently a must for high performance systems that eat lots of energy, because you definently want to save on your electricity bill. oh and in europe, you're required to have some sort of PFC in your PSU. Modular Cabling: Modular cabling is always something that PC enthusists want. with modular cabling, most cables other then the 20+4 pin, 4 pin cpu, etc. come seperate from the PSU. with modular cabling, you only need to use the cables which you want. the rest of the cables can stay outside of the case, which will help improve your airflow. While modular cabling does improve airflow, they limit power by increasing the electrical resisitance, in fact the voltage drop can be as much as that which would occur in 2 feet of standard wire. Worst of all though, modular plugs utilize delicate pins that can easily loosen, corrode, and burn, creating the potential for a major system failure. Rails: While many psu's are multi rail, it is better to get a single rail system because with a single rail, the psu can transfer 100% of the 12v output of the psu to the computer, whereas in a multi rail system, you can face up to 30% distribution loss due to underutilized rails. lets say for example lets say rail 12vr2 is assigned to work for the cpu, and lets say the rail carries 17Amps of power, but the cpu only uses 7A of power, that 10amps in lost, whereas in a single rail system, the system draws from only one rail so the power loss is not there. also, lets say you have a grafix card that required 20A, but the rail its using is 17A, you have instability and problems like that, thats why for a sli/crossfire system, you definently want a single rail psu, because everything draws from the single rail, which has all the power of the psu. whereas if you're trying to sli/crossfire on a quad rail system, which has like power of the psu split up, that 1/4 of the power of the psu might not be able to power the sli/crossfire grafix cards. The OEM: The most important factor to look for in a Psu is the OEM or original equipment manufactures.Most Psu's are rebranded OEMs, and very few companies make their own PSUs. here are some OEM Gudelines: OEMS that make very good PSU's: Seasonic (usually the most expensive Psu's are seasonics, seasonic also sells their own PSu's, but many times its better to get a rebaged seasonic instead). common brands that use Seasonic: PC Power & Cooling, Corsair,etc. Forton/Fsp/Sparkle(owned by fsp)(they have a controlling interest in 3Y) . they sell their own psu's as well. but here are some common rebadged fsp Psus: OCz, Sparkle, Zalman Topower/epower(topower's retail brand) These Psu's are very good, and usually a lot cheaper then seasonics, and they are more common. some common rebadged topowers: BFG, Muskin, Ocz, scythe, Tagan Enhance (many repuatble brands, but i dont know much about enhance)They sell their own psu's as well. Common rebaged enchance PSU's: akaska, high wattage cooler masters, silverstone zeus,strider,and element series, xclio stablepower, [*]Seventeam They are a small oem that make excellent psu's, however they do not market their own psu's. Common rebadged seventeam PSU's: Silverstone Decathalon and Olympia series, some Cooler Master psu's, and they have a sprinkle of psu's in ultra, which why some ultra psu's are very good, while others are like... [*] Etasis They are another small oem that make excellent psu's, they do market their own psu's but i've never seen them so your better off with the Silverstone Zeus and Nightjar series, which are rebadged Etasis psu's. OEMs that sometimes produce decent PSu's, but you should stay away from: Channellwell while they produced the notorious smartpower series, they also produce the very good thermaltake toughpower series, and have recently been making corsair psu's. They're overall a good company with a bad past, good recommend their newer units such as corsair & Thermaltake. OEMs to stay away from: Andyson(very notorious due to hiper psu's) superflower (xion psus are decent..) youngyear (the apevia psu's they make are crazy good) Heres an incompletely list of Brands, and their Oems. Color Coding Scheme: Green= Very good Red= stay away purple= Good PSU, but made by a bad oem Blue= Good company, but the products are mixed. *= note **= my comment. Aerocool Known Manufacturers - Andyson Specific Units All units - Andyson E239028 Andyson Known Manufacturers - Andyson Specific Units All units - Andyson E239028 Antec Known Manufacturers - Channelwell, Enhance, FSP, Seasonic Specific Units: SmartPower series - Channelwell E176105 - discontinued cause it was a crappy product. everyone is being issued neohe's from the antec rma department. TruePower II series - Channelwell E176105 Phantom series - Channelwell E176105 NeoHE series - Seasonic E104405 TruePower Trio series - Seasonic E104405 Earthwatts series - Seasonic E104405 Solution (SU) series - Seasonic E104405 Basiq series - FSP Quattro series - Enhance E166947 *E176105 is actually Antec's own UL number - some units appear to be registered under this number, others under the number of the OEM. Akasa Known Manufacturers - Enhance Specific Units: All units - Enhance E166947 Allied Known Manufacturers - L&C Specific Units: All Units - L&C E214301 Apevia/Aspire Known Manufacturers - Youngyear, Wintech, Real Power Pro. **while the reviews are very good for these products,and they look good, and are very well cooled with nice blue leds,etc.,not much is known about the oem's hence the purple.** Specific Units AS Prefix - Youngyear E126556 Iceberg series (IB Prefix) - Youngyear E126556 PFC Prefix - Youngyear E126556 MR Prefix - Youngyear E126556 WIN Prefix - Wintech CW Prefix (Turbolink on label) - Real Power Enterprise Apex Known Manufacturers - L&C Specific Units AL Prefix - L&C E214301 SL Prefix - Soltech E223918 *Solytech are a division of Deer Asus Known Manufacuters - Acbel Polytech Specific Units All units - Acbel Polytech Athena Power Known Manufacturers - Sun Pro, Topower Specific Units AP-MP4ATX25 - Sun Pro E210743 AP-MPS3ATX30 Sun Pro E210743 AP-P4ATX42F Sun Pro E210743 AP-MPS3ATX40 Sun Pro E210743 AP-MP4ATX40 Sun Pro E210743 AP-P4ATX50F12 Topower E130843 BFG Known Manufacturers - Topower Specific Units All units - Topower UL Not stated Broadway Com Corp Known Manufacturers - Broadway Com Corp Specific Units All units - Broadway Com Corp E194657 Coolermaster Known Manufacturers - Acbel Polytec, Enhance, Hipro, Seventeam Specific Units: Real Power 550W - Acbel Polytec E131875 eXtremePower 430W - Hipro E143709 eXtremePower 600W - Seventeam UL Not stated eXtremePower 650W - Seventeam UL Not stated Real Power Pro 750W - Acbel Polytec Real Power Pro 850/1000W - Enhance Coolmax Known Manufacturers - ATNG Specific Units All units - ATNG E186010 Corsair*another top brand that is very popular* Known Manufacturers - Seasonic Specific Units All units - Seasonic UL Not Stated Delta Known Manufacturers - Delta Specific Units All units - Delta E131881/E217431/E313881 Diablotek Known Manufacturers - Leadman Specific Units All units - Leadman UL Not Stated Enermax Known Manufacturers - Enermax Specific Units All units - Enermax E134014 Enhance Known Manufacturers - Enhance Specific Units All units - Enhance E166947 ePower Known Manufacturers - Topower Specific Units All Units - Topower E130843 *ePower is Topower's retail brand Etasis Known Manufacturers - Etasis Specific Units All units - Etasis E176239 FSP Known Manufacturers - FSP Specific Units All units - FSP E190414 Gigabyte Known Manufacturers - Channelwell Specific Units All units - Channelwell E161451 Hiper Known Manufacturers - Andyson Specific Units All units - Andyson E239028 Hipro** not to be confused with hiper, hipro is very popular in europe, they are a small oem, and their brand is a mix of their own products and topower products.** Known Manufacturers - Hipro, Topower Specific Units Units with HP Prefix - Hipro E143709 Units with TOP Prefix - Topower In Win Known Manufacturers - In Win, FSP Specific Units Models with FSP prefix - FSP Models with IW/IP prefix - In Win E193791 Kingwin Known Manufacturers - Super Flower Specific Units All units - Super Flower E197467 Koolance Known Manufacturers - Channelwell Specific Units Liquid Cooled 1200W - Channelwell UL Not stated Leadman Known Manufacturers - Leadman Specific Units All units - Leadman UL Not stated Linkworld Known Manufacturers - Linkworld Specific Units All units - Linkworld E131039 Logisys Known Manufacturers - Youngyear All Units - Youngyear Masscool Known Manufacturers - Seventeam Specific Units All Units - Seventeam E141400 Mushkin Known Manufacturers - Topower Specific Units All Units - Topower E130643 *Topower's actual UL is E130843. This seems to be a typo made by Muskin MSI Known Manufacturers - Solytech Specific Units All units - Solytech E223918 *Solytech are a division of Deer OCZ *Wile E has alerted me that OCZ psu's, while they are very good psu's, they can ripple once you reach full capacity(500/500, etc.) and ripples in the voltage are very dangerous, so if you plan on really using up all the wattage of a psu, try another brand, but for the regular user, ocz psu's are still an excellent choice* Known Manufacturers - 3Y, FSP, Topower Specific Units Powerstream series - Topower GameXStream series - FSP E190414 EvoStream series - 3Y E190414 ProXStream series - 3Y E190414 StealthXStream series - FSP E190414 ModXStream - FSP E190414 *FSP have a controlling interest in 3Y Powmax **terrible cases followed by terrible psu's, this company is doomed** Known Manufacturers - Leadman Specific Units All Units- Leadman UL Not Stated PC Power and Cooling Known Manufacturers - Seasonic, WinTact **excellent psu's, one of the best brands out there, they now offer a 5/7 year warranty on all of their psu's, and they also test your psu before sending it out to you and some of the more expensive psu's come with their own testing reports whereas for the other psu's its optional.. just goes to show you how confident PC Power and Cooling are in their products. ** Specific Units Silencer series - Seasonic Turbo-Cool series - WinTact UL Not Stated *PC Power and Cooling are know owned by OCZ, although the product lines remain separate and probably will remain that way. Raidmax Known Manufacturers - Sun Pro, Topower Specific Units RX-380K Sun Pro E210734 RX-420K Sun Pro E210734 RX-500S Andyson E239028 RX-630A Topowe Rosewill Known Manufacturers - ATNG, Deer, Leadman, Solytech, Wintech, Youngyear Specific Units RV200 - Deer E203196 RV300 - Leadman UL Not Stated RV350 - ATNG E186010 RV450 - ATNG E186010 RD series - Solytech E223918 RE series - Youngyear E126556 RP series - ATNG E186010 RT series - Wintech UL Not Stated RX series - ATNG E186010 Scythe Known Manufacturers - Topower Specific Units All units - Topower E130843 Seasonic **probably some of the most expensive psu's on the market, i wonder why the rebadged ones are cheaper, most if not all seasonic psu's are 80+ energy efficent certified, but the certification is just a new concept and most psu's haven't even been tested, but seasonic is certified so its worth the extra money.** Known Manufacturers - Seasonic Specific Units All units - Seasonic E104405 Silverstone Known Manufacturers - Enhance, Etasis, Seventeam Specific Units: Olympia OP1000 - Seventeam E141400 Decathlon DA1000 - Seventeam E141400 All other Olympia units - Designed by Impervio All other Decathlon units - Designed by Impervio Element series (EF suffix) - Enhance E166947 Strider series (F suffix) - Enhance E166947 Zeus ST56ZF - Enhance E166947 All other Zeus models - Etasis E176239 Nightjar series - Etasis E176239 Sparkle Known Manufacturers - FSP Specific Units All units - FSP *Sparkle is owned by FSP StarTech Known Manufacturers - ATNG Specific Units All Units - ATNG E186010 Super Flower Known Manufacturers - Super Flower Specific Units All units - Super Flower E242429 Tagan Known Manufacturers - Enhance, Topower Specific Units Silver Power - Enhance All Other Units - Topower E223995 Thermaltake Known Manufacturers - Channelwell, HEC, Sirtec Specific Units Purepower series - Channelwell E161451 TR2 430W - HEC E199442 All Other TR2s - Channelwell E161451/E193705 Toughpower series - Channelwell UL Not stated Ultra **ultra has a huge black mark next to their name because of their psu's, while the older psu's were good, and they fixed the psu problem by switching to andyson** Known Manufacturers - Andyson, Seventeam, Wintech Specific Units V-Series - Wintech E178768 XVS - Wintech E178768 X-Finity 600W - Wintech E178768 X2 - Wintech E178768 X3 - Andyson E239028 X-Pro 600W EE - Andyson E239028 X-Pro 750W - Seventeam E141400 X-Pro 800W - Andyson E239028 X-Finity 800W - Andyson E239028 XClio[/B] Known Manufacturers - Channelwell, Enhance Specific Units: Stablepower series - Enhance UL Not stated **stable? of course** Greatpower series - Channelwell UL Not stated **not great** Goodpower series - Channelwell UL Not stated **not good** BL series - Channelwell UL Not stated **is the bl suppossed to stand for blah?** Xion Known Manufacturers - Super Flower All units- Super Flower **while these psu's have a great reputation and have very good looks, they are built by super flower so i do not recommend them. purple flag** Zalman **people say that cooling solution maker zalman makes their own thermal compound, though they dont have any experience in the field, but they dont make their own psu's, i know that much** Known Manufacturers - FSP Specific units: All units - FSP E198072 Zippy Known Manufacturers - Zippy Specific Units: All units - Zippy E143756 III. Auxiliary PSU's While auxiliary psu's aren't very common, they are still around and can be quite useful. there 2 reasons you might want to want to get an auxiliary psu: A. the most common reason that people need auxiliary psu's are for powering a thermoelectric coldplate (TEC) or peltier cooling. TEC's use electricity to seperate temperates. with a tec, one side of the block will get burning hot and the other side will get freezing cold. the hot side is the side that you need to water cool and the cold side is the part you need to put on the chip. but this isn't a water cooling guide so basically in order to seperate the temperature to extreme ends of the block, the tec's require lots of power. some tec blocks even even require up to 437W of power . tecs require 12-15v of very stable power with lots of amps (like 20A+ or so). the typical atx/eps psu cannot provide the power and stability that a tec requires because the amount things like video card draw on the psu depends on how much they are being used at times so the load on the psu is ever changing, which is not very good for a tec. for a tec, i highly recommend getting a mean well aux. psu, they are built by mean well themselves and are intended for industrial purposes. heres a very good aux. psu for running something like a 437W tec. the only problem i have with mean well psu's are that they are targeted toward industrial use so they are not made to be mounted in the 5.25" drive bay,so you'll need to look into anothet means of mounting it in your case. though i believe the swiftech aux. psu's can be mounted in the drive bays. The relay switch: Well, the aux psu requires it's own power source. If you plug it straight in, it's always on. So what the relay kit is for, is to make the psu turn on, only when the main psu is on. The very basic explanation is: You hook the aux psu to the relay kit, hook the relay kit to a molex connector, then plug the relay kit into your electrical outlet. What it does is use the molex to sense when the main psu is on. When the main psu turns on, it opens an electronic switch to allow power to get to the aux psu. *****IF YOU ARE BUYING AN AUXILIARY PSU FOR A TEC/PELTIER, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A RELAY SWITCH. OTHERWISE, THIS COULD HAPPEN B. While this reason is not very common, some people do buy aux. psu's so that they do not to keep updating their current psu's. and instead they can get an aux. psu to power say the second card in a multi video card system because the current atx psu cannot do it. heres a good example of a psu for that job. note that the mean well psu can be used to power your system components but you would need to make your own leads IV. Final Remarks I want this guide to be "open source" sort of like a wikipedia article. And here's how you can contribute to this list: find the Ul number on the label of the psu(see the examples below) Go to the ul directory at http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/template/LISEXT/1FRAME/index.htm type in the ul number, and see which company is listed. (note that some companies pay the oems to have the ul number in their name, such as Antec) post your psu info and its ul number on here, (a pic of the ul number on the psu would be greatly appreciated, as i can verify the authecitiy of the info) and i'll put it up. heres some examples: on the first attached pic: This is the label from the antec smartpower series, here the ul is E161451. which comes up as channellwell from the ul directory. on the second attached pic: This is from the antec neohe, and the ul number is E104405, built by seasonic. Mods & admins can feel free to update this as they wish. The following people have helped to contribute to this guide: Cdawall, Keaker, W1zzard, kennyt772, Wile E
Rails - Normal sized units are always single rail as far as transformer layout goes. They use a single 12v transformer providing a single base voltage and current. So called multi-rail psus place a amperage cap on each "rail" limiting the output of any single rail to between 16a and 20a. A true multi rail or multi transformer psu is not possible in the atx spec. This is why we have the 1200w thermal take's for example that weigh 3 lbs and are twice the length of smaller output units. The easy way to check if your unit is truly multi rail is to compare output voltages from various leads. Under load and while idle a single transformer will output only one voltage. If you compare two seperate leads and one is 11.92 while the other is say 12.60 you have two seperate transformers. This multi rail business started by the atx2.0 spec that intel pushed. This limited the current of any one wire to 240va, to prevent overloading the power supply wires. This is the reason for the "P4" plug and the 24pin power plug as the single 12v wire on the original 20pin plug could not supply enough amperage for intels new p4 chips. With seperate rails, there are very very few that are seperate. It is mostly a marketing ploy to trick you into thinking their unit is superior to say PCP&C. It is just a amperage limiter preventing more than 16-20 amps from passing over that wire.
about the marketing ploy, lets use the pc power and cooling that you mentioned, built by seasonic of course, they have the quad silencer, which is suppossed to be quad rails, would say that it acutally has quad rails? and for the thermaltake psu, you're saying that its a true dual rail system, and thats why its like double the size? and so multi rail is like just multiple connections, so that you dont have too much power in one wire? and so you're trying to say that the rails dont matter?
woot! its stickied now! and thanks JC316. would anyone like to help me clarify the rails more, and would anyone want to add something about amps in here? i dont know anything about amps..
Im glad its stickied, its a very good read. Thanks for all your time and effort. I will be reading it throughly before I get my new PSU
total combined amperage is what matters, the cumulative amperage not the rails added together. the so called loss is just the psu having a cap on the wires and a cap on the combined output of all wires. multi rail is just the total output capped into various sections.
i'll add this info to the guide shortly, thanks, coming soon: wattage, amps, color coding, and im going to clean it up and try and make it more user friendly.
take a look at this: http://compreviews.about.com/od/cases/a/PSUWattage.htm i think it explains watts and amps pretty good, also has nice links
They say "Our new Silencer 750 Quad power supply gives you legendary PC Power and Cooling performance and Quad PCI Express connectors" and then "+12VDC @ 60A (Powerful Single Rail)". Quad rail is not what that "Quad" meens. PC Power & Cooling are all (now) single +12v rail psu's.
"Power Factor Correction helps improve the efficency of a PSU, so that your PSU uses less electricity. wrong "PFc requires you to set the voltages as well." huh? "Modular Cabling" talk about losses on the connector "because with multi rails, when the PSU fails, it wont take down you're whole system" who says that? evidence? "The OEM" very good list ---- and just making sure before someone sues us: this is your content? you wrote it?
errr, isn't pfc supposed to improve the efficency of a psu???? with passive pfc(or no pfc) you have to set the voltages for where you are (the little red switch that says 110/220) with active pfc, you dont have to. i'll try and clean up the rails section, and try and find some evidence.
You say Enermax Known Manufacturers - Enermax Specific Units Which units are bad all of them ?. Even there $300 models ?
all the units are built by enermax as far as i know, and enermax is not a good oem company, so i would say even the 300 buck models are bad. i finished color coding btw. i have about 15 links of psu info sitting in my inbox, i'll compile all the info and add it in eventually..
ill check it out, the reason i put it in red is because its manufactured by enermax, if it was manufactured by lets say seasonic, then its a definite green, however, if enermax is doing a very good job at manufacturing the psus, ill make it green. its yellow for now.
PFC doesn't exactly have to do with efficiency of the PSU. I'm not sure exactly how to put it but I believe it has something to do with the amount of power that is taken from the wall outlet (that is why it is a bigger deal in Europe when we're talking 240V instead of 120V). Look on wikipedia, because my explanation is way oversimplified. Also, what's wrong with Enermax? This Enermax Liberty is the best PSU I've ever owned, and the reviews say it is probably the best in it's price class. It is even better with my DXX edition that is PCIe 2.0 ready (6+2 pin PCIe power is their definition of PCIe 2.0 ready). And about modular cables, if you actually plug the connectors correctly into the psu, the resistance caused by the modular cable is extremely minimal. However, you must make sure that you get it in there all the way, otherwise the resistance will be large. Also is the fact that if you are constantly plugging and unplugging cables from the psu, you are definitely going to increase the resistance of the connection over time. That is why hiper psus (and those who do it like them) have such a novel idea, in that we should have screw in modular cables (and they look really nice). Anyways, for a person who alters the configuration of the psu (like updating the pc quite often), modular cables probably aren't for you. However, if you don't plan on constantly plugging and unplugging cables from the psu, a modular psu is probably a nicer choice both cosmetically, and for improving airflow. Edit: you also might want to add in the wattage section about how the lower end psu makers tend to talk up their psus by giving out peak wattage as their wattage number. The better psu makers usually give a more realistic description of the wattage their psus pump out. For example, my liberty is rated for ~400W, but the documentation says it can peak at ~450W.
okay, some enermax psus are rated very well, and othere arent, so im going to leave enermax as yellow
I am sure with a little more research on the EnerMax you will find that it is indeed GREEN and in the top 5 of all the manufactures Thank you for taking the time to do this project I will slap ya an official thank you once your documentation has become near completion


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I am looking for a cheap transcription service for video blog material (interviews, etc).
I don't need subtitles or time syncing. Just cheap and relatively accurate transcription of video.
Does anyone have any recommendations?
As it currently stands, this question is not a good fit for our Q&A format. We expect answers to be supported by facts, references, or expertise, but this question will likely solicit debate, arguments, polling, or extended discussion. If you feel that this question can be improved and possibly reopened, visit the help center for guidance.If this question can be reworded to fit the rules in the help center, please edit the question.
I think Andrew Warner of mixergy.com (great podcast btw) is using Amazon's Mechanical Turk and he gets pretty good results from what I have seen. ps. sorry for not linking mixergy.com, I can only add one link | |||
The Stack Overflow podcast set up a wiki for transcripts. Do you have enough listeners/viewers who would be willing to participate in a transcript wiki of your video blog? | |||||
Try synergy [transcription services][1] for your transcription needs, they providing accurate transcription at cheap price. | ||||
So I've used: TranscriptionStar – iSource solution Inc. email@example.com http://transcriptionstar.leapfile.com 1291 Weber Street| Pomona |CA |91768 Ph: 714-277-3909 before and they transcribed audio files that went with videos for about $1.25/minute (advertised $1.00 but it ran a bit higher). They did a good job although we had to go in and fix the engineering terms. Their billing leaves a lot to be desired. | |||||||||
On the This Week in Google podcast, they said Google is rolling out something like this functionality for videos. No idea if it's publicly available. http://googlesystem.blogspot.com/2009/11/youtube-audio-transcription.html | |||
I'd suggest putting up a request at FindVirtual.com - it's an online community of virtual assistants: deal direct, lots of skill sets available, nice people. | |||
We've used Mechanical Turk and it has been great. If you don't want to figure out all of the tips and tricks of the system, there are services like Casting Words that will organize it for you. | |||||


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Apostasy Records (2012)
There are no two ways about this: two seconds into "Mayhem Maniac Machine" the similarity to Necrophagia hits you straight in the face. But that is not necessarily a bad thing, and in this case it is excusable – the drummer did a brief tour of duty with the technical DM legends.
"Mayhem Maniac Machine" presents us with 35 minutes of brutal, technical DM that steers well clear of Scandinavian influences. To my ear the palette sounds more Polish and German with a slight nod to the US. Thrashy riffing and fills keep the music accessible and stop it going over the top into a full out holocaust. As the title would suggest, there is a mechanical aspect to the songs, as if some crazed scientist created a machine that would write modern sounding DM.
On the good side then, this album has brutality and accessibility. It is easy to get into and the type of thing you'd return to often. The musicianship is excellent and the production, while not adding much in the way of atmosphere, doesn't get in the way. On the down side, "Mayhem Maniac Machine" is derivative and that is the kind of thing that can make it difficult for a band to get into the premier division. Definitely worth a listen though!
www.myspace.com/deadborn666 www.apostasyrecords.com
Rating 4.5 / 6
Composed by Peter Loftus


text: Cloud Computing: Its Benefits, and How it is Implemented by Universities There is no question with regards to the critical role that is played by higher education in the molding of the structure of our societies. It is through the creation of competent higher education institutions that we are able to produce competent and responsible individuals who will be instrumental in ensuring that the societies grow as they should (Lazowska et al, 2008, as mentioned by Mircea and Andreescu, 2011). In order to ensure that these venerable higher education institutions are on par with the latest social and global trends,


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The is an excellent route that should not be missed- some of the best 5.10 climbing in red rocks. P3,4 offer some incredible stemming, laybacking, and jamming on perfect varnished rock. P2 has great climbing as well- varied. P1: Start below the right side of the Hourglass on a left-trending low-angled crack. End on a ledge at the base of a right-facing corner with a two bolt anchor. 5.6, 150 ft. The length of this pitch will vary depending on how high you are willing to climb unroped. P2: Step left into the right-facing crack that widens quickly to a chimney. After the chimney ends, make face moves up to the right-leaning, right-facing crack above. This pitch ends at another pretty good ledge with a two bolt anchor. This pitch protects well without large gear. 5.9, 120 ft. P3: Stunning. Leave the belay with a right facing dihedral fist crack on your left and a perfect finger crack on the right wall. Ascend the corner using both these features until the crack on the right tapers out. Continue up the thin right-facing corner to a ledge with two bolts. This is incredible climbing in a mostly tips corner with occasional face holds. This pitch has many bolts of various ages and variety. Small wires and tcu's are necessary to supplement the bolts. 5.10b, 110 ft. 4. The excellence continues. Keep climbing up the right-facing corner and wonder why there aren't more routes like this. End on a ledge with a two-bolt anchor. 5.10b, 80 ft. 5. Resist the temptation to rap. Climb up a splitter crack of varying sizes on black rock. Overcome the roof, then trend right and up a polished groove to a two-bolt anchor. 80 ft, 5.8R?. Notes: P3,4 combine easily with a 70, and it would appear the same with a 60m as well. If you do this with a standard rack, be ready to skip bolts and make things a bit sporty. P5 is apparently runout, but didn't seem to protect all that poorly. Above P5 is loose, sandy, difficult to protect and not so great. Enjoy. Descent: The best option is to rap from the top of P5. The P5 anchors are 1/4" equalized with cord. Then rap from the top of P4 to the top of P2. Continue the route as described above. 2 60 m cords are required to rap. If not for the P3 anchors, it would be easy to rap with a single 70m from the top of P5 (with a small amount of easy downclimb on P1). P3 anchors are not rap equipped. Of course, the other option is the Gunsight Notch. This involves some unpleasant 5th class climbing past the P5 anchors. We did this and won't do it again.
Approach as for Brownstone Wall. After coming up the slabs, continue up and right to the base of the wall, right of the Hourglass feature. This route takes on the right-facing dihedral that forms the right side of the Hourglass.
Standard rack to 3 friend will do just fine. Don't forget the small wires. 2 60 m cords to rap the route as the stations are set up currently.
This route has some of the best rock in the park and its spectacular position and moves make it a classic. I guess I agree with the grade but I would recommend that the leader be confident at the .10b grade when climbing this route. If you bring along a 3.5 or new 4 camalot you would find several places to use it. If you climb the 5th pitch go straight up the obvious crack and then angle up and right. If you look carefully you can see the anchors from the belay. I would say this pitch is 5.8 but no R rating is necessary. As for the last pitch I would agree with the post that the rock deteriorates as you move up. I would rate it R maybe just for the rock quality and lack of good protection. The gunsight notch walkoff is super easy and DOES NOT require rappelling unless you can't 4th class downclimb.
One of the best routes I've done in Red Rocks, for sure!
Matt Ruppell and I replaced all ten old bolts on p3-4 last Thursday, except one pro bolt that had been replaced previously (it has an old JU hanger re-installed on it for historical sake - don't worry, they are actually pretty good hangers, and the next bolt is 3 feet higher). We didn't get to the p5 anchor. The pitch 3 anchor has rap rings on the two new bolts. We didn't mess with the original bolts left next to the newer rap anchors on top of p1, p2, p4 - so each of these anchors has 3 or 4 total bolts, but no one clips the old ones! If you rap with a 70m, I suspect that the p2 rap wouldn't quite reach the p1 anchor (it would depend on how stretchy your rope is). Also, the first pitch is definitely over half a 70m and would require 5.5 downclimbing at the start of the first pitch. By my measurement, p3 is more like 80-90 feet and p4 about 60-70, so you should be able to rap with a single 60 to a rope left on the nice ledge on top of p2. Watch rope ends as always.
Thanks for all the great work Greg. Those old quarter inchers didn't inspire confidence in me.
This route is very sustained starting pitch 2 on. The 5.9 chimney is quite unrelenting and vertical with some pretty thin face moves when chimneying isn't possible. Also, my leader was rather gripped on the chimney; most of the small pro during the first half of the route seemed mental more than anything else to him, so having a #5 seems like it could make the route a bit safer in the event of a fall (a #4 should work too, but probably place it in the first half of the pitch instead of hanging on to it like my partner did...no better opportunity will arise). Fwiw, my brother and I met and spoke with Jorge Urioste at length directly after climbing Nightcrawler (he was climbing another brand new 5.10 he just put up two weeks ago next to NC, so we met him at the base of our routes post-climb). He stated this route "has always been rated 10+" and definitely not 10b. YMMV. One more interesting note about the route history: Jorge Urioste told us that he and Joanne named it "The Nightcrawler" because when they were putting up the route initially, they ended up sleeping overnight on top of the pillar (I believe they meant The Hourglass formation pillar). USEFUL APPROACH BETA: Time is approx 2 hours and kinda burly. To avoid a bunch of the boulder hopping, once you are nearing the entrance to the canyon, you will encounter some trail divisions and a sign; it will indicate that continuing back north (from whence you originally came) is the Pine Creek Trail, whereas turning left toward the canyon is the Knoll Trail (iirc). Our guidebook (and our instincts) said to go on the Knoll Trail; this leads you very soon into the gully and up the tiring boulder-scrambling for a large part of the canyon's length. While following Jorge Urioste out at the end of the day, we found a much nicer way to go. So during approach, when you hit that sign, keep going straight on the Pine Creek trail. It will "feel" wrong, but you will be happier in the long run! Not too much farther down the hill, you will encounter another trail that intersects on the left but bears no sign marking. Turn left here and it will take you up the hill above and alongside the gully for quite some ways into Juniper Canyon (before you are forced to get in there and finish up with boulder-scrambling). However, it is mainly flat and allows you to avoid around 1/3-1/2 of the gully!
If this one is rated 10b/c, La Cierta Edad should be 9/10a in my humble opinion. 3rd pitch was hard & the 4th pitch was harder...maybe different climbing types suit different people but we really struggled on the last pitch. Beautiful climbing, rock & position though! Large cams seemed handy on 2nd pitch. Many thanks to Greg & Matt for replacing the bolts!!
rappelled 3 & 4 with a 70m yesterday- 4 was fine, 3 was as well, but close enough to make me think that a 60m would be really close. this pitch is probably exactly 100'- so be careful if rappelling with a 60m off of 3. really liked this route- very thoughtful and rewarding, not to mention very aesthetic!
Great climb. Probably my favorite I've done in Red Rock, although there's still a lot of great climbs I have yet to do. It's a very solid 5.10b (think of a "EB of El Cap" kind of 10b), and may seem like a sandbag among Red Rock's fluffy grades. The descent gully was still full of snow and ice from that blizzard last month. Getting down took forever and required an extra rappel. I wish we had gotten an early start so we could have spent more time enjoying the summit instead of rushing to get down. If you've never topped out Brownstone Wall, it's well worth climbing the last pitch. It's an impressive ridge with a great view off the backside.
I thought that the chimney pitch (pitch two) was pretty hard for the grade and awkward at times. The third pitch was really really cool and balancey.
Every pitch is enjoyable involving a mix of many skills - stems, chimney, liebacks, endurance. The third and fourth are totally sustained 5.10 climbing from start to finish. Comment - although you can rap from pitch 4 to pitch 2 belay, at least have the last person stop at pitch 3 and pull the rope then rappel again - we got the knot hopelessly stuck in the crack right below the 3rd belay - not my favorite pitch to repeat on the same day even though it is spectacular.
An absolutely gorgeous route that is unfortunately marred by the presence of bolts. ... [Administrator's note: parts of this message, and several responses, have been removed to keep the tone positive. See posting below for further detail. -- Larry] ...
Although this route may appear to have unnecessary bolts by today's standards, it is worth keeping a little historical perspective. At the time this route was first climbed (1978), cams were rare and small cams were non-existent. The original guidebook says: "There are two ethical considerations which are unique to the Red Rocks: the use of pitons and the quality of bolt placement. Generally, pitons offer dubious protection and it is difficult to judge the quality of their placements in Red Rock sandstone; few will hold a long leader fall. In a matter of months, fixed pins often become loose and can be removed with the fingers. The hammer blows required to redrive pitons into the rock will quickly fracture the sandstone and, after a few placements, there may be no crack left. First-ascent parties, who are concerned with preserving the rock and who find it necessary to use a piton, would be well advised to place a bolt instead. The bolt should be placed as carefully as possible as the safety and lives of other may depend on it. Shallow drilling, bent shafts and placements on loose flakes and blocks are unacceptable; such bolts should be replaced. Since the holding power of bolts on sandstone has not been determined, first-ascent parties might be advised to place bolts at closer intervals on sandstone than on granite when other forms of protection are not available."
i appreciate the bolt replacement very much, thanks! NOTES: the new anchors are often too low, with the in-line equalization you need to place them a lil' higher to avoid too much force pulling OUT on the lowest anchor bolt(reasonably so if people are clipping this at waist-height and then leaning back to belay). also consider using washers between the nut and the hangars. i think the variables mentioned above have contributed to at least one "new" bolt pulling almost halfway out already(oct. 16, 2011). this is constructive criticism and not meant to ruffle any feathers. it is especially cool that you guys left a historical piece, as time moves forward i think these will be a real treat for new climbers in a decade or two. thanks for the hard work! jon
Where's the bad bolt located? Might help replacers to know what they're looking for- There was a significant amount of "negative" discussion removed here. I still think that climbing George and Joanne's routes and then bitching about them not bolting routes in a fashion that anticipated the invention of cams that would make the bolts redundant is both insane and stupid. They put up some of the greatest routes in the Western Hemisphere, even those who claim to hate bolts are always climbing them. Get a hobby....and buy someone who puts up a route a beer before ya start slinging mud.
Phenomenal and brilliant route. A candidate for the best route in RR. Amazing climbing. I can't see p2 as 5.9 - its so much harder than say the 5.9 pitch on Armatron. Nor can i swallow the suggestion that the two top pitches are 10b - it doesn't hold water. Handren's book gives them 10c - and that's the lowest they could be.
Great climb all the way through the fifth pitch. Lot's of fun face climbing and stemming if you want to stay out of the chimney for most of the second pitch, although this might bump up the grade beyond 5.9. No need for anything bigger than a 4. My partner and I both thought the crux of the route was getting off the small ledge on P3--a couple of bouldery moves before the crack becomes any good. P5 is worth doing as well. We rapped the whole thing with a 70. The P2 raps just gets you to anchor. The P1 rap requires about 20 feet of down climbing mid 5th class.
The best route ever!!! For me P2 and 3 are both crux - one mental (R)and the other one physical (good gear+bolted).
This is my new favorite route in Red Rocks! The chimney pitch alone is outstanding, and I will repeat this route again just to lead the chimney pitch again, if nothing else. The dihedral is excellent! I believe the Handren guide when it says the dihedral is the best dihedral in Red Rocks! Technical and sustained. I can't thank Jorge Urioste enough for putting up this excellent route! The anchor at the top of the second (chimney) pitch was in good shape. I didn't have any issues clipping into it or rappelling off of it. Thanks so much for replacing these bolts! The crux move on the third pitch is very thought provoking. You pretty much have to edge with your right foot on "not much" and completely commit to trusting it. And then bump your right foot up to another "not much" edge and completely commit to trusting it again while you gain the finger crack with your right hand. That's how I did it anyways.. The crux move felt definitely 10+ (.11- ish). The block you are standing on before the crux move is a bit loose. I put a number one cam behind it while I climbed onto it, and when I put the cam behind it, I saw the whole block flex outwards. It's a large block! I hastily removed my #1 from behind it once I was standing on top of it. I took a double rack to 2", and was glad to have the pro options. I took a single #3 and #4. I placed my #4 about 10 feet above the pitch 1 anchor and bumped it along the crack for about 10 more feet before it started to tip out. I left it there, and placed my #3 about 10 feet higher. There is a completely welded #3 about 10 feet above that, and I clipped it. Looked like the cam was in good shape, although the lobe rivets had a little rust on them. It wasn't coming out. The approach trail was much more obvious on the descent, which seems typical of a lot of the climbs in Red Rocks. We managed to take 3 hours to approach the climb due to scrambling around and trying to find a trail around the wash. My partner and I turned left into the wash too early on the approach. The trail we turned into the wash on the left looked about right according to the Handren guide book approach information. Don't turn left into the wash from the approach trail! Just continue to follow the approach trail straight the entire way. The approach trail proper eventually will go down into the wash and scramble along the wash for about 200 yards. The trail portion in the wash is marked well with cairns. From the wash, the path will exit to a trail on the left, go up about 75 feet up a hill, back down the same hill, and then back into the wash for about 100 feet. The trail then exits the wash on the right and scrambles towards an outcropping that leads to a weakness in the slab that allows you to walk right up to the climb (through a bit of shrubbery). This "weakness" can be seen from the approach trail as a notable triangular rubble heap with some bushes on top, below a notable white slab section. The slab section looks much more vertical from the trail. It isn't bad once you get up to it. Maybe 15 degree slab rock; totally walkable with packs on. The approach is well worth the climb. If you enjoy chimneys and dihedrals, this route is not to be missed!
Climbed it yesterday, and felt the 10+ rating to be fair. Brilliant route! In the shade, so plan accordingly....
For those equipped, a single 80m works perfectly for rappel.
I'd recommend topping out. The view is amazing and then you only have to bring one rope (if you don't have an 80m but who wants to carry that). The gunsight notch is pretty unique as well. After the 5th pitch it's one more pitch of easy but fragile face climbing. Definitely worth it. Oh yeah, great route. Getting onto and then moving off of that block on the third pitch was the crux for me.
Climbed this recently and pulled out an anchor bolt at the top of p2 with my fingers. It was a 2" wedge anchor, which I would consider to be inadequate for sandstone, and it was only in the rock about 1". Did my best to equalize the remaining bolt with an old 1/4-incher and a knot but it would be nice if the missing bolt were replaced with decent hardware. The other wedge-type anchors on the route should be viewed with suspicion if they start getting loose. We rapped with a single 70m and the rap from the p2 anchors does not quite reach. A #4 camalot and some other gear makes getting to the p1 anchor a bit safer. Be prepared to downclimb 25 feet of 5.6 when rapping p1 as well.
Anchor at the top of pitch 2 needs some caring for. Originally one good bolt extended via a chance part way, then continues as an old piece of cord, this is then attached via a non locker to a shackle. The shackle is equalized by a sling to an old bolt, and to a knot in a crack (originally). I took a whipper on P3 and yanked the knot out! I've replaced the knot with a good nut, but the equalizing is not great for where it is in relation to the old bolt. It now loads the shackle a bit off vertical axis. So I've also added another beaner to connect straight to the good bolt in case shackle gets loaded wrong and blows. The thing just needs another good bolt, else someone just bring some extra cord and equalize whats there better. Cheers!
Roger, thanks for the updating. I'm working a bunch right now but got word from some of my crew that this will be taken care of very soon. Thanks for good description of the problem, it helps out a lot for the replacement effort. -K
Amazing route. The belay with the missing bolt is rigged fine for now with the remaining modern bolt and Roger's fixed nut. Thank you, Roger! We re-equalized the two with a longer chunk of cord and rapped confidently.
I threw this together from a spring break trip a couple weeks ago.
The anchor has been restored a top of pitch 2. A 1/2" SS 5 piece ASCA bolt was installed near the previous bolt which had came out. The old hole was patched. We weren't able to get the wedged nut out, but it is somewhat hidden. Enjoy! Also, there is now a optional rap descent off of Time's Up (Anchors replaced) if The Nightcrawler is a little busy. The route can easily be rapped with a 70m and possibly even a 60m. I'd stay on belay while traversing over to the times up anchors.


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Tag Archives: neowiz
Thu, Mar 14, 2013 | 12:22 GMT
Mega Man Online officially axed by Capcom, Neowiz responds
Mega Man Online was been officially kerb-stomped by Capcom in November, but the move was only just made public by a spokesperson from developer Neowiz.
Wed, Nov 07, 2012 | 17:36 GMT
Bless Online video shows dragons, demons, massive world boss
Bless Online, the Unreal Engine 3-powered MMORPG, has a new video available showing battles, creatures, and a massive world boss. Neowiz hasn't provided a release date or word on whether it will be available in the west – as far as we are aware – but it sure looks, pretty. Have a look for yourself below. Thanks, Massively.
Mon, Sep 10, 2012 | 09:06 BST
Mega Man Online cancelled, art leaks online – report
Mega Man Online has been canned by Capcom according to leaks from the game's lead artist Kang Dong. Dong has also revealed several pieces of environment art into the wild. Pinches of salt at the ready, people.
Wed, Jun 27, 2012 | 16:04 BST
Two lawsuits filed against South Korea's Shutdown Law
Two lawsuits have been filed in South Korea, challenging the Shutdown Law as unconstitutional. The law prohibits those under sixteen from playing games for a nightly six hour block so they can do more constructive things. Parents and teenagers with a Korean organization representing culture filed a suit claiming the law doesn't take into account the parental right to educate their children. The other lawsuit was filed by NCsoft, Neowiz, and Nexon, also claiming the Shutdown Law is unjust. More on Kotaku.
Wed, Oct 19, 2011 | 14:37 BST
Korean Unreal Engine-based MMORPG announced
The Korean branch of Epic Games has signed with Alliance of Valiant Arms publisher Neowiz for an Unreal Engine 3-powered MMORPG, titled Bless.
Wed, Nov 12, 2008 | 18:19 GMT
Age of Conan to release in Korea
According to this EG story, Funcom's Age of Conan's first Asian release will be in Korea.
Korean firm Neowiz will be handling the port.
"We are very excited to introduce the world-class large-scale MMORPG Age of Conan with its popularity and great reputation in the industry," said Neowiz boss Choi Gwan-ho.
"This will be the first large-scale MMORPG for Neowiz Games and both companies will also work tightly together to adapt and implement a fully localised game for Korean users," he added.
More through there.


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Spec work is becoming a growing concern for most graphic designers. Or spec-based design contests. Naturally, we all don't want to work for free. After spending so much time on a project, we want something in return. But how about entering a contest, wherein you are asked to submit something creative, or design something, and in so doing, (sometimes) unknowingly lose all rights for your design.
Companies enticing designers with cool stuff in exchange for their designs and then what happens if you don't win?
Surely, you're not comfortable with these, so, what d'you think?
Tags: spec-work
Hi, Apryl
I agree here, entering a competition others will see your work, i guess that in a way it's like copying.
Yes indeed! And then they end up having all the rights with your work.
I don't enter many contests for the reasons you mentioned Apryl. Many contests asking for creative work submissions, are actually just another way for someone to get the awesome material for their promotional use for a fraction of what it would cost to pay a professional.
It's not a bad idea for those holding the contests. They get a MUCH broader selection of styles, ideas and concepts to choose from than one would ever get from one, two or three or more agencies and they generate publicity and interest in the brand at the same time.
Yes, I have a issues giving away my creative material... unless I know it is for a good cause I support ;) It can be good though sometimes to have winning material to show for better employment etc. too so there are plus sides to entering contests. Just depends how important the work you submit is to each creator I think.
Yeah, I agree. If you're doing it for a cause, no problem there. It's just that, submitting your work to a contest, there's no guarantee. Those holding the contest were the only ones to benefit, well, in exception to the one who wins, other than that, all works were for them to keep. Though, yes, sometimes it depends. We'll just have to be careful what we're agreeing.
In my case, I look closely at the contest details first to check out their rules. Sometimes, it is the fine print that really gets you. But if everything is clear and well within your preferences, I think contests are a great way to get some needed exposure.
I think it is the very young in the field of design and inexperienced that would participate. For other designers, designing becomes a business that pays the bills. If one really wants to contribute their time and creativity, they should consider doing work for a good cause/pro bono. They should not be among a pool of designers in the hope of getting the spot light.
Here are a few reading materials on spec work :)
Read about AIGA's position on this: http://www.aiga.org/position-spec-work/
Read about the No!Spec Campaign: http://www.no-spec.com/
Hope these are helpful!
Here's a nice article I just found that talks about free work... thought it might be a nice addition to this thread. http://www.webdesignerdepot.com/2012/06/requests-for-free-work-surp...
Bottom line is I do not work for free under any circumstances. I would never entertain a client asking me to submit "ideas", I get paid for my "ideas" and that's it really.
The major concern with Spec Work is the origin of the persons submission. I've seen a number of cases over the years where entrees would copy clipart, or use stock images within the logo itself. This is a huge copyright violation, and most stock sites forbid the use of the images for sale as use in a piece of logo artwork.
Companies that use Spec Work to have their logo concepts designed risk a huge copyright suit if the designer uses copyrighted images within the logo.
The other concern really is that the company that posts for Spec Work to be done has no idea of what qualifications the designer has, nor do they have access to them after payment changes hand.
Is this designer providing the right file types, Illustrator .ai, pdf or eps? Are they supplying PSDs (where logos should never be created and stored in this format). Are they supplying all the colour options, the white only version, black only, spot colours, full colour, web versions?
Have they made the logo fit all substrates and uses, like flexo print, litho print, screen print, digital print, large format, embroidery etc.?
From what I'm seeing the answer is "no".
A reputable designer won't usually do Spec Work, as they value their time and expertise to work on projects that pay more than what's on offer on the Spec sites.
And I wouldn't want to do business with any company that uses Spec Work as a source as they clearly don't value our (as designers) expertise within the industry.
If a company doesn't value their own business to create a logo (et al items) or to try get things "on the cheap" and possibly the wrong format/colours etc. then that says a lot about them and how much they value our industry.
I'm not against free work, but not for companies.
Free work is a great way of new designers starting a portfolio, but instead giving free work to companies that make money, if people just volunteer to non-profict associations, the local animal shelter, the fire department, etc, etc, they'll have something to show on their portfolio and will be helping someone that deserves it and not a company that is just being greedy.
That's very true Edgar - that type of work is called Pro-Bono and is a great way to build a portfolio and do something for your community too.
I certainly wouldn't be interested in doing free work for big companies, one that strikes my mind is GAP clothing, who crowdsourced (spec worked) their logo about 2 years ago, and it got such negative feedback they reverted back to their own logo.
Exactly, Pro Bono.
Yeah I remember the GAP flop! LMAO!
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text:
Select a tag to browse associated projects and drill deeper into the tag cloud.
Thruk is a multibackend monitoring webinterface which currently supports Nagios, Icinga and Shinken as backend using the Livestatus addon. See http://www.thruk.org for more.
Copyright © 2013 Black Duck Software, Inc. and its contributors, Some Rights Reserved. Unless otherwise marked, this work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License . Ohloh ® and the Ohloh logo are trademarks of Black Duck Software, Inc. in the United States and/or other jurisdictions. All other trademarks are the property of their respective holders.


text:
Tasha Ledrich
Do you have a suggestion you think we should know about?
We send periodic updates on our facilities, programs and services.
Rules and Regulations: |
Child Supervision
NOTE: Individual memberships to the SRWC are not available to anyone under 18 years of age.
Youth Program Eligibility
Climbing Wall Age Policy
There are no age requirements to climb at the wall, however, climbers must be at least 13 years of age to belay. All approved climbers ages 13 - 17 must be accompanied by an approved adult climber at all times, unless an event has been scheduled through Recreational Services.
Natatorium Age Policy
Individuals assume a risk of injury or even death while voluntarily electing to participate in physical activity. All participants are strongly encouraged to have a health evaluation by their physician. All non-student members must sign the "Release and Waiver of Liability and Indemnity Agreement.â€
Risk Statement
Participants play at their own risk. Neither Recreational Services staff, Kent State University or the agents thereof assume responsibility for injury or damage to personal property resulting from participation in recreational activity or an intramural contest.
Bicycles, skateboards, roller skates, in-line skates, scooters and sleds are not permitted inside the SRWC. Only working companion animals are permitted in the building.
Shirt and shoes are required except in the locker rooms and swimming pool areas. Clean swim attire must be worn in the pools and whirlpools. Cutoff shorts, T-shirts, thong bikinis, see-through suits and unapproved footwear are prohibited in the natatorium. Patrons are asked to wear clean athletic shoes that have scuff-resistant, non-marking soles in all activity areas of the facility. Closed toe shoes (no sandals) are required on the fitness floor, weight floor, circuit and track equipment. Patrons must remove shoes before crossing the pool deck when going to and from the outdoor patio.
Shirts are required to be short-sleeved and non-mesh while on the upper Fitness Floor, lower Fitness Floor, Weight Floor and when using machines in other locations (Track & Circuit). Examples of appropriate and prohibited shirts.
The SRWC closes annually on the Saturday following Kent State University's spring finals week to perform general and preventative maintenance. The facility remains closed from nine to 14 days. Please see a posted schedule for specific dates.
Recreational Services requires our transgender members to use the restroom or locker room that corresponds to the gender classification on their state issued ID. Gender neutral facilities (family changing rooms) are available for use at all times.
Membership Suspension
Management reserves the right to suspend a member's privileges if a member refuses to follow the rules of the facility and basic socially-appropriate behavior. Management reserves the right to penalize unauthorized use of a FLASHcard or Membership ID. Member privileges are not transferable.
Unruly Participant
This shall include, but not be limited to; verbal abuse of a Recreational Services employee, verbal altercation with another guest, disruption of operation of the SRWC, or use of obscene, vulgar or offensive language. Once these incidents have been documented, management will contact the participant to arrange a meeting. Facility access rights will be removed until the meeting is completed. The penalty will vary based on the severity, intent and scope of the incident.
Disorderly Conduct
This shall include, but will not be limited to; physical acts of intimidation toward any Recreational Services employee or member, physical acts of intimidation toward any guest, actions deemed unsafe to guests in the facility and actions deemed detrimental to the long term health of the SRWC and/or the equipment within. These cases will be immediately remanded to the Kent State University Police or the City of Kent police. The Office of Student Conduct may also be involved.
Entry Policy
Upon entering the SRWC, all members must present FLASHcard/Membership ID at the welcome desk. The welcome desk closes 15 minutes prior to building closing. No patrons will be permitted to enter after that time.
Forgotten FLASHcard/Membership ID
All members and nonmembers must present valid photo identification in order to access the facility. Active members who have forgotten their FLASHcard/Membership ID are permitted access to the facility twice per semester. Members may fill out a forgotten identification form, or can use another form of photo identification (driver's license, passport, etc.) at the Welcome Desk or Pro Shop. Members who do not have their FLASHcard/Membership ID and have been previously allowed these two exceptions during the semester will be denied access to the facility.
Lost FLASHcard/Membership ID
Any community member who has lost their Membership ID must pay a $10 replacement fee. Any student, faculty or staff member who has lost his or her campus ID must go to the FLASHcard office for a replacement.
Unauthorized Entry Attempt
Any individual who is found in the building without proof of appropriate access or who is attempting to gain illegal access will be removed from the facility. If an individual is caught, conduct court and/or legal action may be pursued.
Presentation of False ID
If the SRWC staff has determined that an individual is using a false ID, the staff member will confiscate the ID and inform the individual that he/she needs to schedule a meeting with management. The individual on the ID card will have facility access rights removed until the meeting. Management has the right to adjust punishment standards based on the severity and intent of the situation.
Recreational Services accepts cash, checks, FLASHCash, Discover, MasterCard and Visa. Registration and membership purchases can be done in person with any of the above payment methods.
Most programs allow registration by phone with a credit card to reserve your place. Please note that your reservation is not confirmed (and your place is not reserved) until we have received your payment.
Annual memberships can be paid via the above listed options as well as through monthly credit card billing or payroll deduction for permanent faculty/staff who are paid over 12 months.
Any request to post signs, take photographs or record videos in the SRWC must be directed to the Marketing Coordinator and is subject to approval based upon content and circumstances.
Courts may be used for volleyball, basketball and badminton. Inappropriate/vulgar language and behavior is not permitted. Patrons may be asked to leave the facility if their behavior is deemed threatening or inappropriate. Non-marking court shoes are required at all times while on hardwood floors.
Participants must be present to call next and claim next game. Basketball games will be played as follows:
The track is 1/7 of a mile on the inner two lanes, and 1/6 of a mile on the outer two lanes. The inside two lanes are designated for walkers. The outside two lanes are designated for joggers. Please adhere to these walking/jogging lane assignments for the safety and enjoyment of all.
Stretching areas are located adjacent to each side of the track. Users should not use walls, railings, door handles or heating units as stretching aids. Participants must use a cuspidor if they need to clean their mouth. Please respect our building and do not spit on the floors, walls or in the water fountains.
The track is intended for recreational purposes only. Competitive training is not permitted. The track direction for the day will be posted at the entrance to the track. Cardio equipment located on the track is available on a first come, first serve basis.
Belay Policy
The wall is open to anyone, but each climber, regardless of ability, must take the Safety and Skills Test every four months to become an approved climber. Climbers between the ages of 13 and 17 years old may become approved climbers provided they have a parent or legal guardian attend the Safety and Skills Test and sign off on all waivers. Climbers 12 years of age and under may not belay.
Waiver Policy
All participants must sign an "Indoor Climbing Wall Acknowledgement of Risk and Release†agreement. Participants under the age of 18 must have the form signed by their parent or legal guardian. A parent/guardain must be present unless the event has been scheduled through Recreational Services.


text:
I'm pursuing a small project on quieting the noise generated by my computer.
I have a SUPERMICRO SC-750A case, with about 9 exhaust/intake fans installed. The freakin thing is as loud as a m0f0. I found a site that explains the usage of carpet bedding to absorb the noise.
The problem is, I can't get my hands on any of that material. You guy know of any cheap substitutes?? The material would most defintely have to be high density foam/polymer. Right now I can think of those eggcrate bed things but that's about it.


text: Wolf and Sassy By Wolf December 16, 2010 7:18 PM Share on Facebook Share on Twitter Category: Share on Facebook Share on Twitter More Leave a comment Send to a friend! Print this page Pin it! Reddit This! Share on Tumblr! More from 98 Country Opie's Angel Tree Grants a Wish For a Hardworking Single Mother [AUDIO] Judge Denies Dismissal of Brad Paisley, Carrie Underwood 'Remind Me' Lawsuit 12 Things You May Not Know About Some Of Your Favorite Christmas Movies Brace Yourself For Bitter Cold Weather Best of the Web ZergNet


text:
Forecast more >
A few light showers will be possible this evening into early Tuesday as an upper level disturbance moves through from the west. Finally, some sunshine will be able to break through Tuesday into Thursday. With the clearing skies, temperatures at night will be colder ...
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H.S. Football Week 1 Nederland 45 Goose Creek 20
Week 1 Nederland 45 Goose Creek 20


text:
A Dozen Lines Of Code
January 24, 2012
Today's task will require your imagination and creativity.
A high-school programming teacher recently asked for examples of short programs with a high "cool" factor, the idea being to get his students interested in programming computers. I'm not sure the suggestions would work; today's high-school students have been surrounded by computers their entire lives, and it takes a lot to make them think a program is cool. Being from a different generation, I can remember when I thought it was cool that a program properly skipped over the perforation on a stack of green-bar paper — many programs didn't!
Your task is to write a cool program in a dozen lines of code. You can define cool in any way that you wish. Try not to abuse the definition of "line of code," at least not too badly; to be concrete, we will say that your solution must not exceed 12 lines, and each line must not exceed 80 characters including white space. When you are finished, you are welcome to read or run a suggested solution, or to post your own solution or discuss the exercise in the comments below.
Pages: 1 2
13 Responses to "A Dozen Lines Of Code"
January 24, 2012 at 3:08 PM
In ruby, less than a dozen lines you can write a program to display the frequency all the words in a file ("word" defined loosely here as C/C++ style identifier, except it also accepts leading digits as "words" so it should do a reasonable job for text (i.e. not programming language) documents)
wcount = Hash.new 0 $stdin.each do |line| line.scan /[a-zA-Z0-9_]+/ do |word| wcount[word.downcase] += 1 end end wcount.sort.each do |w,c| printf "%-15s %d\n", w, c end
Analyzing itself:
PS C:\Users\dave\Documents\dev\cs453> cat wf.rb | ruby wf.rb 0 1 1 1 15s 1 9_ 1 a 1 c 2 d 1 do 3 downcase 1 each 2 end 3 hash 1 line 2 n 1 new 1 printf 1 scan 1 sort 1 stdin 1 w 2 wcount 3 word 2 z0 1 za 1
January 24, 2012 at 6:54 PM
Here's my solution:
;; A simple Boss Key app. My contribution to the dozen-line program contest.
NeedToHide = .*(Mozilla|Explorer|Chrome).*
WantToShow = .*emacs.*
SetTitleMatchMode, RegEx
WinGet, id, list, %NeedToHide%
Loop, %id% {
this_id := id%A_Index%
WinHide, ahk_id %this_id%
WinActivate, %WantToShow%
Return,And some explanation behind it: http://benjisimon.blogspot.com/2012/01/my-dozen-lines-of-code.html
January 24, 2012 at 10:49 PM
[...] today's Programming Praxis exercise, our goal is to make any program we want, as long as it's cool [...]
January 26, 2012 at 1:18 PM
#!/usr/bin/env python """ pinc.py: an arbitraty text include filter. Pinc.py reads a source file with include directives in the following format: ... (> file_to_include.ext <) (!> file_to_execute.sh --args foo <) ... Included files will be included verbatim. If executing a file, the stdout will be included. If a directive is indented, as follows: ... normal text (> file_to_include.ext <) more normal text ... Then the indentation will be preserved for all included lines. Includes cannot be escaped, but any non-whitespace character before a directive will make pinc.py ignore the directive. For example: ... some text (> will_be_included.txt <) some more text this (> will_NOT_be_included.txt <) even more text ... pinc.py reads from the stdin and writes to stdout. It takes no arguments. pinc.py is one pass non-recursive. The included text is not parsed for pinc.py directive. """ import sys, re, od.path, shlex, subprocess for line in sys.stdin: match_exe = re.match(r'(\s*)\(!>(.*)<\)\s*', line) match_inc = re.match(r'(\s*)\(>(.*)<\)\s*', line) if match_exe: space, args = match_exe.groups() sys.stdout.writelines(map(lambda x: space+x+"\n", subprocess.check_output(shlex.split(args)).split("\n"))) elif match_inc: space, inc = match_inc.groups() sys.stdout.writelines(map(lambda x: space+x, open(inc.strip()))) else: sys.stdout.write(line)
January 26, 2012 at 1:24 PM
For the above, substitute od.path for os.path.
To use pinc.py as a quine, try: [tt]echo "(> pinc.py >)" | python pinc.py[/tt]
January 26, 2012 at 5:08 PM
def add(x,y): #assumes both numbers are postive.
while y > 0:
x,y = x^y, (x&y)<0:
if y&1 == 1:
total = add(total,x)
x = x<>1
return x
{/sourcecode] -
January 26, 2012 at 5:21 PM
hmm the source code optino didnt work very well. heres the pastebin option
code -
January 26, 2012 at 10:28 PM
This computes a Brent-Salamin approximation to pi with k digits base b.
Edited from the Gambit examples.> (pi-brent-salamin 10 100)
31415926535897932384626433832795028841971693993751058209749445923078164062862089986280348253421170374(define (pi-brent-salamin b k) ; k is number of digits (define q quotient) (define is integer-sqrt) (define b^k (expt b k)) (define (f.* x y) (q (* x y) b^k)) (define (f.square x) (f.* x x)) (define (f./ x y) (q (* x b^k) y)) (define (f.sqrt x) (is (* x b^k))) (define (n->f x) (round (* x b^k))) (let ((one (n->f 1))) (let loop ((a one) (b (f.sqrt (q one 2))) (t (q one 4)) (x 1)) (if (= a b) (q (* a a) t) (let ((new-a (q (+ a b) 2))) (loop new-a (is (* a b)) (- t (* x (f.square (- new-a a)))) (* 2 x)))))))
January 29, 2012 at 8:25 PM
I've modified one of my old snippets… (see my website for the original)
/circle { 0 360 arc fill } def /disc { 0 0 0 setrgbcolor x y r circle 0 0 setrgbcolor x 3 sub y 3 add r circle } def 5000 { /x rand 595 mod def /y rand 842 mod def /r rand 40 mod 10 add def rand 128 mod 100 add 256 div disc } repeat /line 842 18 sub def /file (discs.ps) (r) file def /Courier-Bold findfont 16 scalefont setfont 1 1 1 setrgbcolor /buffer 80 string def { file buffer readline { 4 line moveto show /line line 30 sub def } { exit } ifelse } loop
Okay, I admit that the lines are a bit overfull… but the result quite worths it,
see an image here. -
February 1, 2012 at 5:29 PM
A python program that generates high frequencies can be used as a dog whistle and also to annoy your friends.
from winsound import *;import random
while True:Beep(random.randint(300,1000),random.randint(500,1000)) -
February 16, 2012 at 8:57 PM
Perl iterative permutation algorithm (Fischer-Krause) to permute the characters of a string.
11 lines (although slightly abused with the 1-line while loops), max width of 67 characters:
sub permute($$) { @{$_[0]} = sort { $a cmp $b } @{$_[0]}; while (print "@{$_[0]}\n") { my ($k, $j) = ($_[1] - 1, $_[1] - 1); --$k while ((${$_[0]}[$k - 1] cmp ${$_[0]}[$k]) >= 0); last if $k < 1; --$j while ((${$_[0]}[$k - 1] cmp ${$_[0]}[$j]) >= 0); @{$_[0]}[$j, $k - 1] = @{$_[0]}[$k - 1, $j]; @{$_[0]}[$k .. $_[1] - 1] = reverse @{$_[0]}[$k .. $_[1] - 1]; } }
Driver/demo program:
if (scalar @ARGV) { my @data = split '', $ARGV[0]; permute(\@data, scalar @data); }
$ perl permute.pl abc a b c a c b b a c b c a c a b c b a
February 23, 2012 at 12:43 PM
The 'Divisors' Problem (http://programmingpraxis.com/2012/02/14/divisors/) under 12 lines :P
<? $n=$argv[1]; for($count=0,$j=0,$i=1;$i<=$n;$i++,$j=0,$count=0) while($j++<=$i) $arr[$i][$count]=$i%$j==0?$j*(++$count/$count):$arr[$i][$count]; echo "Perfect: "; for($sums=array(),$sum=0,$i=1;$i<=$n;$i++,$sum=0) { foreach( $arr[$i] as $j => $val) $sum+=$val; echo $sum==2*$i?$i." ":""; $sums[$i]=$sum-$i; } print "\nAmicable Pairs: "; for($i=2;$i<=$n;$i++) { $x=$sums[$i]; if($x<$i && $sums[$x]==$i) echo "($i,$x) "; } ?>


text:
Utilize the Healthwise knowledgebase decision support system to help you make informed healthcare decisions about tests and treatment options. Search the database or browse below.
Care Decisions are found in the Health Tools section and the Treatment Overview in most articles and are indicated by the Care Decision icon.
No articles found for the criteria selected.


text:
Now Lemon Oil refreshes the air creating an uplifting and cheerful atmosphere.
Brand | Now Solutions |
Manufacturer | Now Foods |
Size | 1 oz |
Size Options | No |
Color Options | No |
Cost/Feeding | No |
For aromatherapy use. For all other uses, carefully dilute with a carrier oil such as jojoba, grapeseed, olive or almond oil prior to use. Please consult an essential oil book or other professional reference source for suggested dilution ratios.
Cheer Up Buttercup Blend: Add 1 drop each of lime oil and grapefruit oil, 2 drops of lemon oil and 6 drops of tangerine oil. Add to a diffuser and enjoy.
100% pure lemon oil
Natural essential oils are highly concentrated and should be used with care.
Caution: Keep out of reach of children. Avoid contact with eyes. If pregnant or lactating, consult your healthcare practitioner before using. Do not use on skin. Reacts strongly to sunlight and other sources of ultraviolet light.
You may also be interested in the following product(s)
Now Foods Vitamin D |
Now Foods D-Ribose 750 mg |
Now Foods Eve Women's Multiple Vitamin |


text:
Three Tanks of Gas: Around $143,000.
Reaction when getting the bill: Priceless.
There are new developments surrounding an $84,000 charge for a single tank of gas.
NewsChannel 5 Investigates first revealed the story on Wednesday, but it turns out that Ray Crockett was not the only person slapped with an outrageous charge by Mapco.
NewsChannel 5 Investigates has now found others facing the same troubles, yet Mapco has been unwilling to answer questions about exactly what's causing the problem.
In fact, NewsChannel 5 Investigates has now confirmed that at least three Mapco customers have been seriously overcharged at area Mapco stations.
"That is insane. That is just beyond mind-blowing crazy," Nikki Johnson told NewsChannel 5 Investigates.
Johnson was at the Mapco on Memorial Boulevard in Murfreesboro on Saturday.
"I bought a coffee drink, and I pre-paid for gas," she recalled.
Johnson paid $22.47 with her debit card.
But her bank statement shows she was charged $58,278.35.
When she showed friends, their reaction was, "What in the world? Did you buy the Mapco?"
There was Ray Crockett who spent $30 for a tank of gas on Friday at a Mapco in Donelson. As NewsChannel 5 Investigates reported Wednesday, his bank statement shows he was charged $84,522.54.
And the same thing happened to another customer at a Mapco in Hermitage on July 4th. He bought $10 worth of gas and was charged $84,073.85.
In all three cases, the banks processed the charges, effectively cleaning out the customers' accounts and leaving them severely overdrawn.
The rest of the article at NewsChannel5:


text:
- Campus Guide
- Rules and Expectations
- Residential Life
- Travel & Signout
- Dining Hall
- Administrative Offices
- Deerfield Parents Network
- ITS Help Desk
- Groups and Clubs
- Campus Guide
All students wishing to request a change in their schedule must complete our online Course Change Request Form (below). To see all of Deerfield's courses check out the Course Catalog.
Prior to completing the form, students need the approval of their advisor. If there is a disagreement, the relevant Department Chairs should be consulted. When Chairs cannot resolve the issues, they will consult the Director of Studies. No course changes will be made until students have secured the appropriate approval. Requests will be processed in the order in which completed forms are received.
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