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…. or would it be the ratonga behind the man? Hmmm….
If you are wondering what the hell I am talking about, it is this month's challenge by Ambermist of Tastes Like Battlechicken. The idea is basically to give a peek about the person behind the blog. Sadly, I skipped last month's challenge which was to tell a story involving a MMORPG of our choice. Unfortunately, I could not think of any interesting stories to tell. There were sure lots of epic or funny moments moments in my MMORPG history but nothing that led itself well to an interesting narrative. This month however is a topic I can write something about that I hope might be interesting to somebody.
So, here are some facts about this guy who writes this little blog:
- I am a brazilian. Or if you want to get technical about it, half-brazilian, half-japanese. Unfortunately, I don't know much about japanese culture. Or even eat japanese food. I know, it sounds strange but my mother is the most pragmatic woman I know. So I guess she didn't see much point in teaching those things to me and my older brother. She is also second generation, with my grandparents from her side being the ones who were actually born and raised in Japan. The part about food though is my fault since I am terribly picky about food.
- My grandparents, from my mother side, never learned to speak portuguese. Yet somehow I was always able to get along pretty well with them. Sadly they passed away when I was still a little child so I never got the chance to learn japanese to actually talk to them. Ah, well, I will always have the best memories from them, despite the language barrier. 🙂
- I learned to speak in english in a course for it outside school at… 11 years old, if I recall correctly. My mother thought it would be one of those required skills to get a good job in the future (she was right). I didn't abandon it without completing it though since I got really tired of all those silly stories they make you read in those kind of courses. Plus the years were starting to drag by. I learned enough to get by myself though so the rest of my english was honed through lots of reading of tabletop RPG books (which were pretty much never used), games and reading websites. Go internet!
- I wasn't confident in my english skill until I started to play MMORPGs. I can read and write without issues. But listening and speaking is still hard for me. How hard? Well, this is how people in voice chat sounds a lot of times for me. To be fair I am pretty sure I sound the same when speaking english.
- I started playing video-games back at the Atari days (whenever those were. It is been too long). Although I don't think I really got into them until the Super NES and a little game called Final Fantasy VI. That was the point where I really started to get interested into all things gaming. Before that it was usually platformer games or action games (I forgot the actual term) which could be played by two players with my brother. On the PC it usually was strategy games or adventure games.
- My first real MMORPG was a little known title called Fairyland. As far as I know it is long gone by now. I think it was originally produced taiwanese company whose name I don't remember anymore nor who did the american version of it. Anyway, as the name implies it was a game where all the quests were based around fairy tales. It was interesting to see how they turned some fairy tales into quests. It also had an interesting pet system, where pets were like party members. Pets also had elements so having the right pet for the right battle could make things a lot easier. Oh, combat was also turn based in the same style as Final Fantasy VI.
- The name Rakuno was one I made up when I started playing Everquest 2. Originally my intention was to make my ratonga my "main" character. After much pondering about a name, I started to try thinking about things that would have to deal with stealing since ratongas have a natural tendency toward kleptomania. Eventually I thought about the word gatuno (a not very common word for thief, robber, etc. in portuguese. The most common word being "ladrão"). Change a couple letters and voila! New name that sounds original enough.
- I chose a ratonga to serve as my person on this blog because they are the coolest race ever. If I had god like powers I would use it to put ratongas in every game in every MMORPG! Thinking well, maybe I just should use such powers to transform humans into ratongas. The world would be a much better place that way.
- On a random note, it has been dang cold here lately. In a related random note, I never seem snow! Well, ok, I've seem it on TV and movies. But you know what I mean!


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subset: commoncrawl


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Fiery Orioles manager Earl Weaver dead at 82
BALTIMORE (AP) ? Loved in Baltimore long after he ended his Hall of Fame career, Earl Weaver remained an Oriole to the end.
The notoriously peppery Hall of Fame manager died at age 82 on a Caribbean cruise associated with the Orioles, his marketing agent said Saturday.
The Duke of Earl, as he was affectionately known in Baltimore, took the Orioles to the World Series four times over 17 seasons but won only one title, in 1970. His .583 winning percentage ranks fifth among managers who served 10 or more seasons in the 20th century.
Dick Gordon said Weaver's wife told him that Weaver went back to his cabin after dinner and began choking between 10:30 and 11 Friday night. Gordon said a cause of death has not been determined.
"It's a sad day. Earl was a terrific manager," Vice president of baseball operations Dan Duquette said. "The simplicity and clarity of his leadership and his passion for baseball was unmatched. He's a treasure for the Orioles. He leaves a terrific legacy of winning baseball with the Orioles and we're so grateful for his contribution. He has a legacy that will live on,"
Weaver will forever remain a part of Camden Yards. A statue of him was dedicated last summer in the stadium's flag court, along with the rest of the team's Hall of Fame members.
"Earl Weaver stands alone as the greatest manager in the history of the Orioles organization and one of the greatest in the history of baseball," Orioles owner Peter Angelos said. "This is a sad day for everyone who knew him and for all Orioles fans. Earl made his passion for the Orioles known both on and off the field. On behalf of the Orioles, I extend my condolences to his wife, Marianna, and to his family."
Weaver was a salty-tongued manager who preferred to wait for a three-run homer rather than manufacture a run with a stolen base or a bunt. While some baseball purists argued that strategy, no one could dispute the results.
"Earl was well known for being one of the game's most colorful characters with a memorable wit, but he was also amongst its most loyal," Commissioner Bud Selig said. "On behalf of Major League Baseball, I send my deepest condolences to his wife, Marianne, their family and all Orioles fans."
Weaver had a reputation as a winner, but umpires knew him as a hothead. Weaver would often turn his hat backward and yell directly into an umpire's face to argue a call or a rule, and after the inevitable ejection he would more often than not kick dirt on home plate or on the umpire's shoes.
"He was an intense competitor and smart as a whip when it comes to figuring out ways to beat you," said Davey Johnson, who played under Weaver in the minor leagues and with the Orioles from 1965 to 1972.
He was ejected 91 times, including once in both games of a doubleheader.
Asked once if his reputation might have harmed his chances to gain entry into the Hall of Fame, Weaver admitted, "It probably hurt me."
Not for long. He entered the hall in 1996.
"When you discuss our game's motivational masters, Earl is a part of that conversation," Baseball Hall of Fame President Jeff Idelson said. "He was a proven leader in the dugout and loved being a Hall of Famer. Though small in stature, he was a giant as a manager."
His ejections were overshadowed by his five 100-win seasons, six AL East titles and four pennants. Weaver was inducted 10 years after he managed his final game with Baltimore at the end of an ill-advised comeback.
In 1985, the Orioles' owner at the time, Edward B. Williams, coaxed Weaver away from golf to take over a struggling squad. Weaver donned his uniform No. 4, which had already been retired by the team, and tried to breathe some life into the listless Orioles.
Baltimore went 53-52 over the last half of the 1985 season, but finished seventh in 1986 with a 73-89 record. It was Weaver's only losing season as a major-league manager, and he retired for good after that.
"If I hadn't come back," Weaver said after his final game, "I would be home thinking what it would have been like to manage again. I found out it's work."
Weaver finished with a 1,480-1,060 record. He won Manager of the Year three times.
"I had a successful career, not necessarily a Hall of Fame career, but a successful one," he said.
Weaver came to the Orioles as a first base coach in 1968, took over as manager on July 11 and went on to become the winningest manager in the history of the franchise.
"Earl was such a big part of Orioles baseball and personally he was a very important part of my life and career and a great friend to our family," Hall of Fame shortstop Cal Ripken said. "His passion for the game and the fire with which he managed will always be remembered by baseball fans everywhere and certainly by all of us who had the great opportunity to play for him. Earl will be missed but he can't and won't be forgotten."
He knew almost everything about the game. He was also a great judge of human character, and that's one of the main reasons why he was loved by a vast majority of his players even though he often rode them mercilessly from spring training into October.
"His bark was worse than his bite, but you had to know him and kind of grow up with him, and then you loved him like a father," Johnson said. "He was a used-car salesman in the minor leagues during the offseason, so he learned a lot of ways to sell you on just about anything."
Pat Dobson, who pitched two seasons under Weaver, said, "Certainly, the years I played for him were the two most enjoyable years I've had."
During games Weaver smoked cigarettes in the tunnel leading to the dugout and he never kicked the habit. He suffered a mild heart attack in August 1998, and the Orioles' manager at the time, Ray Miller, wondered aloud how his mentor was holding up.
"I wouldn't want to talk to him if he hasn't had a cigarette in 10 days," Miller joked. "They've probably got him tied to a chair."
Weaver was a brilliant manager, but he never made it to the majors as a player. He finally quit after spending 13 years as a second baseman in the St. Louis organization.
"He talked about how he could drive in 100 runs a year, score 100 runs and never make an error," Johnson said. "He said he never got to the big leagues because the Cardinals had too many good players in front of him."


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Thursday Oct 24, 2013
Additional Dates:
Bernalillo County Children's Court
Albuquerque, NM 87120
Contact:joseph dorn
Phone: 505-659-0014
Website: Click to Visit
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I thought that I was finished with this series. But somehow, the concept of standardized source citations remains a bone of contention. To read the earlier posts in this series, use the following links for part one, part two, and part three.
This past Sunday, 17 July 2011, James Tanner posted "Looking towards a rational philosophy of citations," in his Genealogy's Star blog. In this post, Mr. Tanner describes a "broad spectrum of attitudes towards citations," with one end being the casual researcher who is completely uninterested in the whole source citation issue, and the other end being the "super-professionals, journal editors, former or present academics" who cites everything in a "formal 'acceptable' manner." Mr. Tanner identifies himself as being "firmly at the academic end of the spectrum." Nonetheless, he concludes his post with the following passage,
So where does that leave us in the genealogical community. Here are some observations and suggestions:
1. We should be fully committed to the idea of citing sources. Most (all?) of the popular genealogical database programs have adequate to very good citation provisions. There is no real excuse for not having a citation to a source if you are using one of the newer programs. However, even PAF has an adequate source citation method.
2. When we write, speak or teach, we should always include a commercial announcement about citing your sources.
3. We should try hard to consistently cite sources in our own materials.
4. We should be charitable about others' lack of source citations and remember that not everyone even knows that citations exist.
5. When we see a citation that is poorly written, contrary to our own version of a citation or otherwise bad, we simply ignore it and go on with our lives.
6. If we are in a position of deciding on the format and/or content of citations for a publication, online post or wiki or whatever, we try to be as liberal and inclusive as possible without undermining the integrity of the publication.
7. Let's try not to argue too much about colons, commas, spacing and capitalization.
It is difficult for me to discern which of these are intended as observations, and which are intended as suggestions. As I read them, they appear to be a set of "best practices" regarding source citations.
I can absolutely agree with the first suggestion. We should all be committed to source citations. I would also add that we should be committed to educating others about source citations. However, the second suggestion is a little much, in my opinion. We do not need to have a "commercial announcement" about citing sources in every presentation or article. In these situations, we can teach by example. By properly citing all of our own sources in every instance, we can indirectly teach others to do the same.
Unfortunately, the remaining suggestions fall far short of what is intended by the Genealogical Proof Standard, in my eyes.
Regarding number three, it is not enough to "try hard" to consistently cite sources. We must do it. Furthermore, I have the sneaking suspicion that "consistent" as intended in this context does not refer to a consistent format, but only to a consistent presence.
As to number four, I agree that we should be charitable about others' lack of citations. This is doubtless to ignorance about the importance of source citations, and we have all been there at some point in our careers. However, "charitable" stems from the word "charity," that is, "giving." We should use these opportunities to give these others a solid education about why source citations are important.
The fifth suggestion, in my opinion, is irresponsible. If we ignore others' mistakes, without alerting them to the presence of these mistakes, then the mistake becomes perpetuated. This other genealogist, the author of "bad" source citations, may teach someone else to construct "bad" citations. However, if we show them how to create "good" and sufficient citations, then they can teach someone else to do the same.
Again, the sixth suggestion is irresponsible. Editors should not try to be as inclusive as possible. In no other academic field are editors inclusive. Take the time to look at the writers' guidelines for academic journals in any discipline, whether a social science like history or a harder science like physics. Editors are extremely particular about the format of every aspect of an article, especially the source citations. If the editors of genealogical publications continue to be "liberal" and "inclusive," those genealogists who have dedicated their lives to attaining the same level of respect given to other academic pursuits will continue to be lumped in together with those casual genealogists who "do" genealogy by clicking on shaking leaves, with no regard to citing sources.
And finally, we come to the last suggestion. The point is not to argue about punctuation.
When we were in elementary school and learning to read and write, our teacher taught us how to construct a sentence. We learned about the parts of speech, punctuation, capitalization, etc. To ignore this as an adult is unacceptable. We are expected in all segments of our life to follow these rules.
Source citation is the same. We do not live in those dark days 100 years ago when very few source citations appeared, and the few that did were not constructed in a consistent manner. Even if we did not have Evidence! or Evidence Explained, we still have the Chicago Manual of Style, which was used to create those EE citation styles. There are accepted standards of source citation.
Why do we use Evidence Explained, or even Chicago, as opposed to MLA or APA? What is the difference? Isn't one as good as the next? Quite frankly, no. Let's take a look at these styles, in the words of their creators:
- Modern Language Association (MLA): "All fields of research agree on the need to document scholarly borrowings, but documentation conventions vary because of the different needs of scholarly disciplines. MLA style for documentation is widely used in the humanities, especially in writing on language and literature. Generally simpler and more concise than other styles, MLA style features brief parenthetical citations in the text keyed to an alphabetical list of works cited that appears at the end of the work."[1]
- American Psychological Association (APA): "The best scientific writing is spare and straightforward. It spotlights the ideas being presented, not the manner of presentation. Manuscript structure, word choice, punctuation, graphics, and references are all chosen to move the idea forward with a minimum of distraction and a maximum of precision."[2] "Among the most helpful general guides to editorial style are Words into Type (Skillin & Gay, 1974) and the Chicago Manual of Style (University of Chicago Press, 2005)."[3] So even the APA recommends the Chicago Manual of Style.
- Chicago Manual of Style: According to a wonderful article by Yale University, that I will address separately, "Chicago style is especially popular in historical research. When developing a historical explanation from multiple primary sources, using footnotes instead of inserting parenthetical information allows the reader to focus on the evidence instead of being distracted by the publication information about that evidence."[4] For an example of just how widespread this style is for historical research work, consider the following, from the writers' guidelines of the Journal of American History, published by the Organization of American Historians: "All text, including quotations and footnotes, should be prepared in double-spaced typescript according to The Chicago Manual of Style (University of Chicago Press)."[5]
So why do we, as genealogists, use Evidence Explained and The Chicago Manual of Style?
Well, first of all, MLA is designed to primarily cite published work, especially for literary criticism and the language arts. We as genealogists are taught specifically not to rely on published work, but to review and cite the original record. So MLA Style is clearly insufficient for our needs.
APA Style is designed for scientific research, especially psychological and other behavioral sciences. They even refer their own readers to the Chicago Manual of Style, when the simplified APA Style does not address a specific issue! Again, this clearly does not fit our citation needs.
The Chicago Manual of Style, on the other hand, is the most popular style guide for postgraduate research, especially historical research. Unlike the other two styles, CMOS does provide citation styles for original records. This is what we need as genealogists. Unfortunately, the citation needs, in terms of the level of detail, of historians are much less specific than the needs of genealogists. This is why Elizabeth Shown Mills spent years compiling Evidence Explained: so that we could cite a specific original record (or multiple records) as our source(s) for the specific biographical details that we discover in the course of our research.
No other style does it better.
If you would like to cite this post: Michael Hait, "Source Citations: Why Form Matters, part four," Planting the Seeds: Genealogy as a Profession blog, posted 21 Jul 2011 (https://michaelhait.wordpress.com : accessed [access date]).
[1] "What Is MLA Style?," Modern Language Association (http://www.mla.org/style : accessed 20 July 2011).
[2] American Psychological Association, "About APA Style," APA Style (http://www.apastyle.org/about-apa-style.aspx : accessed 20 July 2011).
[3] American Psychological Association, "Why is there a specific APA Style?," APA Style (http://www.apastyle.org/learn/faqs/why-specific-apastyle.aspx : accessed 20 July 2011).
[4] "Why Are There Different Citation Styles?," Yale College Writing Center (http://writing.yalecollege.yale.edu/why-are-there-different-citation-styles : accessed 20 July 2011).
[5] "Article Submission Guidelines," Journal of American History (http://www.journalofamericanhistory.org/submit/articles.html : accessed 20 July 2011).


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Artist: James Abbott Mcneill Whistler
Topic: Music
Date: 1873
Museum: Philadelphia Museum of Art (Philadelphia, United States)
Technique: Oil On Canvas
Free for non commercial use. See below.
This image (or other media file) is in the public domain because its copyright has expired. However - you may not use this image for commercial purposes and you may not alter the image or remove the watermark.
This applies to the United States, Canada, the European Union and those countries with a copyright term of life of the author plus 70 years.
Note that a few countries have copyright terms longer than 70 years: Mexico has 100 years, Colombia has 80 years, and Guatemala and Samoa have 75 years. This image may not be in the public domain in these countries, which moreover do not implement the rule of the shorter term. Côte d'Ivoire has a general copyright term of 99 years and Honduras has 75 years, but they do implement that rule of the shorter term.


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MOORE, Okla. – With her son holding her elbow, Colleen Arvin walked up her driveway to what was left of her house for 40 years.
It was the 83-year-old grandmother's first time back at her home since a monstrous and deadly tornado ravaged her neighborhood in suburban Oklahoma City. Part of the roof was sitting in the front yard, and the siding from the front of the house was gone. As her son, Jeff, and her grandsons picked through what was left of her belongings, Arvin found some dark humor in the situation.
"Oh thank God," she said, laughing, when a grandson brought over her keys. "We can get in the house."
Monday's tornado killed at least 24 people, destroyed countless homes and reduced one elementary school almost entirely to rubble, killing seven children inside.
As state and federal officials work to set up disaster recovery centers to provide aid and assistance, Arvin and other residents of Moore are beginning the deliberate process of assessing what's left of their homes and possessions and what comes next.
Officials are still trying to make sense of what will be needed in the coming days, weeks and months: Will homes be rebuilt or torn down? Where will the children go to school? How much will it all cost?
Helmeted rescue workers have been searching tirelessly for survivors and victims, and officials said Tuesday they planned to keep going – sometimes double- and triple-checking home sites. Officials were not certain of how many homes were destroyed or how many families had been displaced. Emergency crews had trouble navigating devastated neighborhoods because there were no street signs left. Some rescuers used smartphones or GPS devices to guide them through areas with no recognizable landmarks.
Moore Fire Chief Gary Bird said Tuesday he was confident there are no more bodies or survivors in the rubble. Every damaged home had been searched at least once, Bird said, but his goal was to conduct three searches of each building just to be certain there were no more bodies or survivors.
"I'm 98 percent sure we're good," Bird said.
The Arvins and others looked for bright spots throughout an otherwise dark day. Arvin's son Jeff noticed a set of five dishes without a single crack. He and his nephews pulled out golf clubs, pictures and a decorative key and note holder.
It was an ordeal they've faced before.
Monday's tornado, which traveled 17 miles and was 1.3 miles wide at points, loosely followed the path of a twister that brought 300 mph winds in May 1999. This week's tornado was the fourth since 1998 to hit Moore, a middle-class community that has been one of the fastest-growing suburbs of Oklahoma City.
"'99 taught us a lot, especially in Moore – such as, you've got to have a plan," Jeff Arvin said.
Billy McElrath's entire home was reduced to rubble, and even its concrete foundation was split. His wife and a friend McElrath hired to do some painting managed to make it into an underground shelter moments before the tornado shredded the home.
His 1968 red convertible Corvette was smashed under heaps of bricks and wooden frames inside what was left of his garage.
"My wife got it for my 50th birthday last August," McElrath said. "I haven't driven it since my son and I took it to a car show in Springfield last September."
His plan was simple: "We'll just start over."
Survivors emerged with harrowing accounts of the storm's wrath, which many endured as they shielded loved ones in hallways, closets and bathrooms.
Larry Harjo, his twin brother and their wives headed for the hospital at the end of the street only minutes ahead of the tornado that ripped the roof off their home and blew out its walls.
"We could see the tornado coming. We could see one side of it, but we couldn't see the other so we knew it was big," Harjo, 45, said while standing in his driveway. "There was no surviving that. It was either underground or out of the way kind of thing and we got the hell out of Dodge."
The hospital was their plan. They had sheltered there before, but this time, it took a direct hit.
"We were directly center of the hospital and we could hear the cars hitting the building, so we knew it wasn't going to be nice," he said. "Thump, thump, thump. Loud thumps."
"Ceiling tiles falling everywhere. I thought it was going to cave on us there for a minute," he said.
From the air, large stretches Moore could be seen where every home had been cut to pieces. Some homes were sucked off their concrete slabs. A pond was filled with piles of wood and an overturned trailer. Also visible were large patches of red earth where the tornado scoured the land down to the soil. Some tree trunks were still standing, but the winds ripped away their leaves.
Officials had revised the death toll downward from 51 to 24 on Tuesday after the state medical examiner said some victims may have been double-counted in the confusion immediately after the storm. More than 200 people were treated at area hospitals.
The National Weather Service said the tornado, which was on the ground for 40 minutes, was a top-of-the-scale EF5 twister with winds of at least 200 mph – the first EF5 tornado of 2013.
Associated Press writers Nomaan Merchant, Sean Murphy and Tim Talley contributed to this report.


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On Jordan's Stormy Banks I Stand Banjo Tab & Jam Track
Here's what you'll get in your download:
Premium Tablature for your instrument
Chord Chart for your song
1 MP3 with all the instruments Guitar, Mandolin, Bass and Banjo
1 MP3 with all the instruments EXCEPT yours.
After adding this product to your cart and completing your checkout you will immediately be provided download links for each of your songs. You'll also be able to keep these within your account on our website for easy reference and to re-download in case you ever lose your files.
Learn to play along and practice with an entire Bluegrass Band with this Premium TAB from Layne Publications. Each TAB was written by Jordan Layne Bourland and is designed to help the beginner and intermediate student get up to pace and playing with a full band as quickly as possible. Each song also comes with two MP3s as well as the TAB and an accompanying chord chart. These MP3s are recorded slightly slower than you might hear the song at a Bluegrass Festival. The reason for this is to help you learn, not leave you in the dust! The first MP3 will have the entire Bluegrass Band Banjo, Mandolin, Guitar and Bass playing through the song exactly as you see it on your TAB. The second MP3 will be the exact same recording but without your particular instrument. This gives you a chance to jump in there without the help of the recording and practice along exactly as you would with a live band. Download this Premium Bluegrass Tab and start Jamming today!
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Free climber Alex Honnold visits Vail
VAIL CO, Colorado
Professional free solo rock climber Alex Honnold took in the Gore Range from atop Vail Mountain on Wednesday afternoon. Honnold is used to taking in sweeping vistas from high vantage points, but generally he exerts himself a bit more to get there.
"It'd be nicer to ski up it, but the lift is pretty convenient and pretty fun, plus its good for me because I'm a mediocre skier," said Honnold who took time away from a ski lesson to chat with the Vail Daily.
But regardless of how he got there, Honnold was happy to be outside, on top of a mountain, a place he clearly enjoys being.
"I'm on top of Vail, and I'm looking at these mountains across the valley and it's really pretty; that's kind of the point," he said.
Having completed the only known solo of the Yosemite Triple Crown and an 18-hour, 50-minute link up of Mt. Watkins, The Nose (El Capitan), and The Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome, Honnold is considered the world's foremost free soloist, though from his nochalant attitude you'd never know it. His friends call him "No Big Deal."
Support Local Journalism
He's is in town to kick off the Vail Symposium's Unlimited Adventure series. He'll give a presentation tonight at Donovan Pavilion in Vail.
"Unlimited Adventure is an exhilarating showcase of intrepid explorers, daring investigators and athletes who ignore the boundaries of geography and endurance, and Alex Honnold certainly fits within that description," said Symposium Executive Director Liana Moore. "We are very excited to be able to host Alex here in Vail, and to continue this series with athletes who are the best in their field."
Rational in the face of his fears
Born in Sacramento, California, Honnold started climbing when he was 11 years old. At the age of 18, he dropped out of UC Berkeley, where he was studying engineering, and devoted all his time to climbing, choosing to live out of a van rather than stay teethered to any one place. He prefers big walls and sport climbing, but enjoys any climb calling for extreme commitment, Yosemite being his favorite area because of its impressive walls and favorable weather.
Now, at age 27, Honnold is sponsored by numerous companies, including North Face and gets paid a salary and given a travel budget to climb full time. He spends half his time in the U.S. and the other half overseas.
"It's totally awesome," he agreed.
Considering how much time Honnold spends clinging to the side of cliffs, often times without any ropes, one would think he's fearless.
"Not true," he said. "I'm just good at controlling that kind of thing. I'm good at knowing what I can and can't do and not stressing; I'm good at staying rational."
There have been a few times when Honnold was climbing and got scared, and felt like "it was all about to go wrong.
And even then "it was mostly when I've had a rope on," he said. "Even with a rope on, you get into place where you can't get protection, where even with the rope on you're looking at taking a 100 foot or more fall. Just because you have a rope on, doesn't mean you're safe."
Sounds like a good analogy for life.
See more


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Now riders can replace their OEM windshield with the size and color of their choice
Seven gradient translucent colors as well as clear and solar tint (a light tint with 72% visible light transmission)
Made of Lucite for excellent optics and durability
Available for five models in up to four different heights - pick a size thats right for you
Perfect fit with OEM hardware
Holes are not drilled but rather machined to accept snap-in nylon inserts that prevent stress fractures and star cracks commonly seen around holes - an exclusive feature of Memphis Shades replacement plastic
Made in the USA
NOTE: These windshields do not fit all models; be sure to check measurements first.
NOTE: Measurements are approximate, and center to center of holes. Bolt to bolt measurements will vary.


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NDC 66794-155-02 Gablofen
Baclofen Injection Injection, Solution Intrathecal
Package Information
What is NDC 66794-155-02?
The NDC Code 66794-155-02 is assigned to a package of 20 ml in 1 vial, glass of Gablofen, a human prescription drug labeled by Piramal Critical Care Inc. The product's dosage form is injection, solution and is administered via intrathecal form.This product is billed per "ML" milliliter and contains an estimated amount of 20 billable units per package. The following table has all the important details about this NDC code, including the 11-Digit NDC Billing number, billing units, wholesale price, RxNorm crosswalk, active ingredients, pharmacologic clasess, etc.
The NDC Directory contains ONLY information on final marketed drugs submitted to FDA electronically by labelers. A labeler might be a manufacturer, re-packager or re-labeler. The product information included in the NDC directory does not indicate that FDA has verified the information provided by the product labeler. Assigned NDC numbers are not in any way an indication of FDA approval of the product.
* Please review the disclaimer below.
NDC HCPCS Crosswalk
This crosswalk is intended to help the public understand which drug products (identified by NDCs) are assigned to which HCPCS billing codes.
NDC 66794-155-02 HCPCS crosswalk information with package details and bill units information.
|NDC Billing Code
|HCPCS Code
|HCPCS Code Desc.
|Package Size
|Package Quantity
|Billable Units
|Billable Units / Pkg
|Baclofen 10 mg injection
* Please review the disclaimer below.
Other Product Packages
The following packages are also available for Gablofen with product NDC 66794-155.
|NDC Package Code
|Package Description
|20 mL in 1 SYRINGE, GLASS
* Please review the disclaimer below.


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Ayaan Hirsi Ali condemns honor killings and other crimes against women in her new Nomad: From Islam to America: A Personal Journey Through the Clash of Civilizations (Free Press, 304 pp., $27), a sequel to her bestselling Infidel. She also argues that a blinkered multiculturalism can help to legitimize to misogyny.
In this quote from Nomad, the Somali-born activist responds to idea that immigrants benefit from maintaining the cohesion of their old culture:
"The idea that immigrants need to maintain group cohesion promotes the perception of them as victim groups requiring special accommodation, an industry of special facilities and assistance. If people should conform to their ancestral culture, it therefore follows that they should also be helped to maintain it, with their own schools, their own government-subsidized community groups, and even their own system of legal arbitration. This is the kind of romantic primitivism that the Australian anthropologist Roger Sandall calls 'designer tribalism.' NonWestern cultures are automatically assumed to live in harmony with animals and plants according to the deeper dictates of humanity and to practice an elemental spirituality.
"Here is something I have learned the hard way, but which a lot of well-meaning people in the West have a hard time accepting: All human beings are equal, but all cultures and religions are not. A culture that celebrates femininity and considers women to be the masters of their own lives is better than a culture that mutilates girls' genitals and confines them behind walls and flogs or stones them for falling in love. … It is part of Muslim culture to oppress women and part of all tribal cultures to institutionalize patronage, nepotism, and corruption. The culture of the Western Enlightenment is better."


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Easter bunny visiting Saturday
Candy, prizes and a visit from the Easter Bunny will all be part of the festivities at the Cheboygan Jaycees Easter Egg Scramble, taking place Saturday at the Cheboygan Area High School.
The event will begin promptly at 1 p.m., and families attending should expect things to run efficiently and be done quickly. Late-comers may find the event is already over, so all age groups should arrive early and be ready at 1 p.m.
Admission is free, although the Cheboygan Jaycees are asking for a canned good or dry good donation for a local food pantry.
Egg hunts for different age categories will take place on the lawn near the side parking lot outside the Cheboygan Area High School, contingent on the weather. If weather conditions are bad or there is too much snow left on the ground, the hunts will take place inside the school gym. Separate egg hunts will accommodate children in four different age groups — 0- to 3-year-olds, 4- to 5-year-olds, 6- to 7-year-olds and 8- to 10-year-olds.
Hundreds of plastic eggs will be placed on the ground in a designated area, and each age group will have a certain amount of time to collect them. Parents are asked to bring a basket, bag or box for their children to put their eggs into.
Cheboygan Jaycees President Jade Hunt said there is at least 1,200 eggs per age group, possibly more. Eggs will contain candy or toys, or tickets that can be redeemed for larger prizes. Tickets can only be redeemed during the event.
Hunt said the youngest age group of 0- to 3-year-olds will receive gift bags, due to the choking hazard posed by candy or small toys.
The Cheboygan County Sheriff's Department will offer free fingerprinting for children starting at 12:30 p.m. McGruff the Crime Dog will also be in attendance. Also beginning at 12:30 p.m., the Easter bunny and duck will be available for photos, which parents are asked to take on their own.
Parents are also asked not to assist their children during the egg hunts, with the exception of the youngest age group, which can receive some help.
The Cheboygan Jaycees is a leadership training and civic organization for people between the ages of 21 and 40. The Jaycees puts on community events such as the Christmas Wishes program, the Wanigan Race, a Halloween Haunting and more.
For more information, send an e-mail to Hunt at email@example.com. Hunt also encourages the public to check out the Cheboygan Jaycees on Facebook to find out what future activities and community events are planned.


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Nalle Hukkataival Repeats La Force Tranquille (V15)
Nalle Hukkataival has been busy in Magic Wood, Switzerland, making the first ascent of a long-standing project, which he has dubbed The Understanding, and making the first repeat of La Force Tranquille, a V15 established by Daniel Woods. According to his facebook page, Hukkataival took a "devastating fall" from the top part of the climb after a hold broke but managed to re-group for the send. He has called it "one of the best hard boulders in the world!"


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Home Girl
Crystal Davis-Robbins was jumaring the first gully on Cerro Domo Blanco, in Patagonia, when a rock the size of a softball careened down.
Crystal Davis-Robbins was jumaring the first gully on Cerro Domo Blanco, in Patagonia, when a rock the size of a softball careened down.
"I heard it, looked up, and got smashed in the forehead," she says. "It wasn't a bad hit, but it seemed to bleed liters."
A little shocky, she jugged another 40 feet to her partner Chris Brazeau, who was just asking if she was all right when, boom — another, bigger rock hit her square in the helmet, breaking it in two.
Yet two pitches later Davis-Robbins led an offwidth roof onsight at 5.12a. She says only that she was feeling better, and it was beautiful: an amazing pitch, a gem, with unique movements.
Davis-Robbins, 25, who grew up in Durango, Colorado, and is currently studying music at the Institute of Miriam Garcia, in Mendoza, Argentina, had a banner season in Patagonia: three new routes on virgin faces, five summits and a proud attempt on Cerro Torre (shut down by storm about 17 pitches up the Compressor Route).
La Suerte Sangrienta (5.11 A1) was the first ascent of the east face of Domo Blanco. Also with the Canadian climbers Brazeau and Jon Walsh, Crystal pulled the first ascent of the east face of Cuatro Dedos, via Fingerlicious (5.11), onsight. The best route, however, was The Art of War, with Ryan Nelson, who has written that she is becoming the most influential female climber in the area. Their opus was the first ascent of the south face of De la S, on which Davis-Robbins' pitches again went free, onsight, up to 5.12a. The route began with a clean, overhanging 5.11 splitter, which eventually cruxed out in an offwidth.
From the time the two clipped into anchor webbing at the summit, the descent was a nightmare. Davis-Robbins recalls, The wind was so strong it would blow the two of us up into the air, floating like kites, and when it died down, slam us into the wall. Both climbers were soaked, a storm moved in, and when they tried to rappel off the North Ridge route, the ropes hung up. The two were forced into a system where Nelson lowered Davis-Robbins, then down-led the face. We couldn't pull the ropes, she explains, because they would fly into eternity. Their rope stuck again on the last rappel, and they ditched it, reaching camp after 35 hours roundtrip.
Ian Altman of Durango, who calls Crystal "Home Girl" and with whom he climbed Terre Innominata, describes her as youthfully exuberant yet steadfest and wise in choosing objectives. He credits her faith in his climbing, though he struggles with multiple sclerosis, saying, Crystal also seemed willing to help me be an inspiration to the MS community. He describes her as quiet in demeanor, but outspoken in her beliefs. She can be bull-headed, for sure.
At 23, Davis-Robbins achieved the first women's ascent of the 1,200-meter North Pillar / Cassarotto route on Fitz Roy, Patagonia. At Indian Creek, Utah, she fired the FA of Full Moon, Good Times (5.12) at 20; climbed Six Star (5.13a) on her second try; and has redpointed Ruby's Cafe (5.13a).
She says, "Indian Creek is where I learned to crack climb and where part of my soul resides, para siempre. "
A 2004 graduate of Fort Lewis College, Durango, Colorado, Davis-Robbins double-majored in Humanities and Spanish, and today she offers a resume of beguiling variety. She has worked as a heavy-equipment operator, and performs bass, rhythm guitar, and vocals in Jeff Robbins' Band, playing traditional Appalachian music. She brings a light alpine guitar to every basecamp.
In 2005 she spent two weeks volunteering at a homeless shelter in New Orleans with Red Cross Katrina disaster relief. When home, she cooks for the homeless at the Durango Community shelter.
What did you do for Hurricane Katrina relief?
A third of the inhabitants were non-English speakers. Part of the time I was the only one who spoke Spanish, so I focused on helping them with paperwork, English classes. I also cooked, cleaned, and put together a talent show that was a hit. People told jokes, played the guitar and sang, and the children danced. We laughed and cried.
Who are your heroes?
Lynn Hill, Gandhi, my mama — for her spiritual wisdom, and for her strength and independence in travel and confronting life. She taught me to climb, taking me out from age 5, buying me my first rack and gear every holiday … taking me all over the world to climb and experience new cultures.
Who taught you to play music?
My father, the other half of me, also my hero in many ways. I started playing fiddle at 3, and at present play the mandolin, bass guitar, rhythm guitar, and sing … genres of blues, jazz, rock, folk, bluegrass and reggae. My strongest passion is song writing. [I have] 35 original compositions.
What construction equipment do you operate?
The cement mixer. Also the excavator, but not that much. It's been a year since I've worked construction, but I hope to return for a while, as a side-hand man.
What the heck is that?
Something I invented … meaning I do whatever.
You are considered very modest, and even something of an enigma.
I don't see myself as an enigma. But I like to keep things, such as what I climb, on a down low, because I don't want ego to hinder something I love so much. The ego plays a role in everything we do, but it is important to keep it in check. I climb for myself, for the intimate connection to nature, for the meditation and confrontation of fears. Not to be known.
What is next?
I hope to climb Aconcagua this year, and spend three or more months in Patagonia, focusing on climbing new terrain. Got the itch for first ascents.


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Blurkers unite!
Blurker (BLUR-kur): n. 1. One who reads many blogs but leaves no evidence of themselves such as comments behind; a silent observer of blogs. 2. One who reads many blogs but has no blog of their own; a blog-watcher or blog voyeur.
A week in November was deemed Blurker Amnesty Week, where blurkers were given the chance to finally speak out and let their voice be known without any discouragement. What a great idea. Considering that I see many many visitors check out this blog but only a handful actually reply via comments or email, I'm giving all you silent partners of The Ward-O-Matic full amnesty and a chance to finally post who you are (you don't have to give out your real name, of course) and post a link to your blog or site, if you have one or not! If you're a constant reader of the Ward-O-Matic, you'll know that this is a big big deal, as I have an issue with self-promotion as it usually disrupts the flow of conversation.
But HERE! and NOW! is your chance to let yourself be known! I'm letting go of the shackles finally, (well, for this post, anyway) as I want everybody to have a chance to be heard! I'd love to see where all my readers are from, as I'm completely amazed by the immediate community that is created by blogs and the internet. Who knows, maybe for some, this could be a chance to network. You never know!
Hello? Is anybody out there? Would love to hear from you!
Here's what you do: just click on the "comments" link below and then click on "Post a Comment," where you're taken to a new page with a window to enter your quaint comment. If you're a registered Blogger, you know the drill. But if not -- not to worry! You do not have to register with Blogger in order to post a comment anymore, as they've made it ultra-easy now. You can click on "other" to enter your unique name and a website, if you have one. That's it! You can also post a link inside the comment window, too, as Blogger supports "a href" tags. You can post as "anonymous," if you'd like, but where's the fun in that? Plus, checking out all the names is part of the fun.
38 comments:
Frankly Ward, this whole thing sounds like a desperate plea for attention! Ha! No, no, I just can't WAIT to see what kind of hapless creatures stumble unwittingly into your murky little internet tarpit (Insert Phillis Diller laugh here)ReplyDelete
Seriously though, good stuff lately. What did you paint that silent auction piece on? (my first guess would be "cardboard," but that's only because I know you too well-
Thanks, Robert for making others feel real comfortable about posting now. Just kidding-- the auction painting was done with gouache and cut paper on watercolor paper.ReplyDelete
And who are you, again?
- AnonymousApril 19, 2005 1:12 PM
A blurker, eh? I like it and I am more than pleased to step up and declare, I love your blog! I don't know how I found you - must have been the lure of the murky tarpit :) I've been blurking now for about a month.ReplyDelete
I find your creativity and perspective to be refreshing and engaging AND I really like Ava Thursdays. I am Canadian (hence the 'eh') and I live just outside Toronto.
Now, smiles to you, as I return to the shadow home of hapless creatures.
BTW, thanks shining one.
Hi. My name's Nick, and I am a Ward-O-Matic reader.ReplyDelete
Actually, since this isn't my first comment, I guess I don't count as a blurker, though I blurked for a while. I usually wait before I comment on a blog. There are a few blogs I've been reading for ages that I've never commented on, but that's not a policy decision. (Actually, it is policy for one blog. A guy who's amusing to read, but I wouldn't want him finding his way to my blog...)
I'm a regular blurker here, although I do participate on various other blogs I visit.ReplyDelete
My own blog is focussed on low-budget film visual effects. Professionally, I work on big-budget films, doing the visual effects, but at a relatively low level. In my spare time, I run the VFX on much smaller budget films. One day, I hope for these two paths to merge (and I don't mean being the tea-boy on a low-budget film...)
I've been reading this blog since someone at work e-mailed around a link to the (fantastic) Polar Express post(s) - they got me hooked, and I've been keeping up with it ever since.
- AnonymousApril 19, 2005 1:30 PM
Linked in through the write-ups on Polar Express a while back, this site is in my NetNewsWire subscription list. I comment on tons of stuff, but haven't commented here yet. Until now.ReplyDelete
- AnonymousApril 19, 2005 1:53 PM
Hello my name is Eric and I'm a blurker. I've been commenting for 1 day now and I'm going to try to stay on the wagon. Thanks for providing this support group, but I'm still not certain what this site has to do with Blurkers Anonymous. Great artwork thoughReplyDelete
- AnonymousApril 19, 2005 1:54 PM
Hey, Ward.ReplyDelete
I started reading your blog after you posted the link to it on Sphere of Hip-hop. I'm enjoying all the features. Ava Thursdays are great, especially since I have a 5-year-old son who has suddenly discovered he likes to draw.
Howdy Ward,ReplyDelete
I found you in the normal fashion. Top 10 in the dashboard. And have been coming back ever since. You inspired me to post paintings and artwork of my own son, Caleb, on my blog..
Ghost Notes
Okay, so I guess I don't fit into the complete definition of a Blurker...but I am a new visitor who has bookmarked you because of your work. Hulaseventy is also a lot of fun.ReplyDelete
I stumbled on your site through a random click of the 'next blog' button...glad I did, very cool.
My wife and I are very visual people (art and architecture) who belong to a four-year old son who's simply amazing.
We have a site at: Brightonopolis and use blogger as an archive, with comments.
Found it through the Polar Express write-up :)ReplyDelete
or more frequently on my hobby site www.frettavefur.net
Hey, Ward,ReplyDelete
I'm a general blurker, but welcome the chance to introduce myself. I enjoy your blog, and want you to post more art, dangit. Your stuff is a lot of fun, and as a person with an intense desire to do illustration or animation as a career (and no idea how), it's fun looking in occasionally to catch a peek of the day-to-day grind.
I have a website at too-fat.com. Keep it up!
I guess I'm a blurker! Stumbled across this blog a month or so back, and been hooked since! In fact, your blog may be the reason as to why I decided to make one!ReplyDelete
Love your work, your insightful comments, and (of course) the Ava art! Keep it all up.
- AnonymousApril 19, 2005 5:44 PM
I think I stumbled onto the blog during the Polar Express series. I'd just been wondering why there were so many great music blogs and so few drawing blogs, so it was great to find out about you. Drawn! and Ward-o-Matic are now on the short list of sites I check on a daily basis.
Your blog really communicates the quiet daily pleasure of drawing - so simple and rich. Like everyone else, I love the Ave Thursdays. Everyone draws! It's just that some people stop at a certain age.
I'll send you a link to my site when I get It set up this summer.
Looking forward to the 'Incredibles' post,
This is great, guys. I'm loving seeing how diverse the crowd is here. Thanks for popping in to say hello. Hope you all stay a while longer.ReplyDelete
As for the Incredibles DVD review: yeep! You're right! I've been meaning to get to that! So sorry. I've also been meaning to write about my third and final installment about the Polar Express (this time in 3-D IMAX). It's just that each of those posts would require so much background investigating and researching. But I promised I'd do them, so don't you worry.
I also plan on getting those interviews with various artists/animators within the field soon, too. Again, it's a lot of work to get them done. And I've got some other surprises for you all coming up soon!
And yes, I'll post more of my work. Thanks again for sharing, everybody. I find this all very fascinating. Keep it up!
- AnonymousApril 19, 2005 10:09 PM
Finally, Ill leave a comment already. I dont remember when and where I came across your blog, but it was a while back. I enjoy your posts. I usually comment on people's blogs, and thought I had before on your's but I haven't. Im a 3d animator in games up in Seattle. Really enjoy what you have to say. Keep it up!ReplyDelete
my blog is newsquirt.blogspot.com
- AnonymousApril 20, 2005 12:42 AM
Hey Ward, I probably found your blog through the Polar Express posts (your right Polar Express kids=creepy.) I enjoy the blog and your and Ava's artwork.ReplyDelete
I'd have commented before, but half of blurking is probably procrastination.
heyup WardReplyDelete
came here via no 2 self, and dig your blog.
Well, you know me... I'm no blurker. If I have something to say, I say it dammit! Good on ya mate!ReplyDelete
- AnonymousApril 20, 2005 5:52 AM
Hey Ward. I enjoy reading your blog and came to it by way of the Polar Express posts. Keep up the great work.ReplyDelete
- AnonymousApril 20, 2005 5:53 AM
I'm a blurker! I blurk all the time!ReplyDelete
There now, doesn't that feel better?ReplyDelete
I'm glad to see that you all came back for more after the Polar Express posts. Thanks, guys.
- AnonymousApril 20, 2005 7:01 AM
Hi Ward,ReplyDelete
I found your site through Drawn. I'm a semi-blurker having a pseudo blog on our website which I don't update enough :( Perhaps I will muster up the will to post an update. I have to get cracking on a new reel so that will justify an update.
Just want to say your blog, coupled with a few others, is an invaluable tool of exposure. Thanks for sharing with us.
Hi, my name is de Souza, and I am a blurker. Wow. That felt good... Its like absolution....ReplyDelete
My blog http://sv.hungover.blogspot.com
Do not read if you're easily offended, I have strange views on life...
- AnonymousApril 20, 2005 9:42 AM
Found your site via Boing Boing link to the Polar Express articles. I've been blurking ever since. No blog of my own, though I enjoy the hell out of yours. I also surf Drawn! quite a bit.ReplyDelete
P.S. Please sketch a blurker that may or may not have anything to do with its definition. It's such a wonderful word, it deserves its own picture for posterity.
Hi, I'm Tanya, and I found your site through Blogger's Blog of Note. I check it EVERY single day, along with yours, artsmear, and core 77.ReplyDelete
I'm a graphic design student, and it's funny that I'm a blurker, because I hate blurkers on my own blog myself!
I must say I think I'm better at designing blogs rather than writing in them. :)
I'll try to comment more often!
de souza-- I'm assuming your site is: http://svhungover.blogspot.com, without that one dot, right? Because the one you list here is kinda odd.ReplyDelete
And Tanya-- I think you added one extra "g" in your address. For all, her blog is here. Nice stuff.
Bill-- your site just about freaked me out, with those flying animal heads coming out at 'cha. I piddled me chair. Your place looks very similar in style as Primal Screen, where I work. I just got some pics of my workspace and I plan on posting those soon. 'Cause it's all about ME, right? Umm, whatever.
Thanks for sharing, people.
Hey there! I left a comment a long time ago and still read your blog!ReplyDelete
Ok - busted! Greetings from Vancouver, Canada - hi ward - love your blog and love your wife's blog (ha) - I guess because its so intimidating or something to make a comment - I never felt comfortable about it and I was so darn shy to say anything - but now i've practiced enough in just the last week or so - (hula seventy) has made it seem easy. Anyway didn't know there was a word for it. I heard about your site via Loobylu's via the SXSW site. And also saw your illustrations which rock! Now that I have my own (2 week old) blog (that never gets any comments) 'cept from Andrea (thankfully) I realize how nice it would be if visitors would drop a line or two.ReplyDelete
Damn, thats a good idea, this call for blurkers! I would steal it except that I might be hunted down like the dog I am.ReplyDelete
Hi there. I'm the guy who posted this anonymous comment a while back.ReplyDelete
First found your blog through BoingBoing's linkage of your Polar Express articles, then forgot about it before seeing it again on Blogs of Note.
I have the site on an RSS reader. Though I want to read through the archives, I never find the time.
Keep on.
I feel like we are all in blurker's anonymous.ReplyDelete
Hi everyone. My name is katie and I am a blurker.
Everyone, "Hi, Katie."
anyway... i'm not sure if i actually qualify, seeing as i do post every now and then, although i check your site on a regular basis. i hail from the other side of the country, that is washington state. love the artwork, love how cute ava and her artwork is, and died of cuteness when i saw little gus-gus all rolly polly like in his costume for halloween. i, like a lot of others, came to you via the dashboard during the polar express and have stayed for various reasons... none of which i am at liberty to share because i would hate for you to get a big head.
anyway, keep up the great work, and keep the art flowing.
oh, and the "piddled me chair" response to someone's comment almost made me piddle MY chair. loverly.
p.s. my blog of course, is linked from my profile which, thanks to blogger, is already linked to my name - that is my blogger name.
I guess I am a blurker ^^.ReplyDelete
I found out about your blog through dashboard. I love your illustrations and if you visit my blog (my desperate plea for attention :P) you will realize I am an aspiring animator.
I recently helped out with the Animation Show 2005. For a Coloradoan who rarely gets to see short animation, the show was a real treat. I'm sorry you didn't like it, but I do have to admit your illustrations for the "Boys Night Out" were really funny ^^.
Thanks Ward for having such an awesome blog. I love your work and maybe someday perhaps you can have a website with an illustration gallery?
Hi Ward,ReplyDelete
Sorry, I haven't spoken up before, but you've been doing so well that I just didn't think you needed any feedback from me. I found you through the blogger top ten blogs your last week there, and my first week with my own blog. Now you are among my own personal top ten. I love your work and Ava's, Andrea's site is also delightful. You inspire me to be more artistic. I'll keep checking in and if it will make you feel better I'll comment when I do.
- AnonymousApril 25, 2005 4:33 AM
Howdy howdy. I'm only a semi-blurker. I've posted comments a few times here and there (on some other blogs), but mostly just enjoy reading. As with others, I found my way in the door via a link to the Polar Express articles. Might toss my own blog up one of these days...still debating...ReplyDelete
If I´m not to late for the blurker thing, here I am. :) I have commented already but I´m sort of new around. I may count as a unusual reader to you, geographically, because I´m reading you from Brasil. So, my blog in portuguese won´t be of much use to you. :)ReplyDelete
But I have a page with my comics, and some of it are in english, so you´re welcome to visit.


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Chipping Controversy
A chipping controversy has begun in New York. Ivan Greene, a New York based climber, was candidly filmed chipping holds on a boulder in the New York area.
A chipping controversy has begun in New York. Ivan Greene, a New York based climber and the author of the Gunks bouldering guidebook, was candidly filmed chipping holds on a boulder on public land; and yesterday the film was made public by Dead Point Magazine. Though the filmakers remained anonymous, according to DPM's report, numerous attempts were made over the past year by the filmakers and local New York based climbers to stop the manufacturing of holds in the Gunks and other nearby areas. Apparently, their plea did not halt the actions of Greene, and this film was an attempt to save the boulders from further detrimental actions. Ivan Greene has yet to come forward with any explanation; however, his sponsorship through Edelrid has now been terminated. Edelrid posted the following statement to their Facebook feed:
"We would like to state unequivocally that EDELRID does not support the practice of chipping. It is our belief that the challenge, and the pleasure of climbing, lies in rock formations, as they occur naturally. With this in mind we can state that we find the recent behaviour of Ivan Greene to be completely unacceptable, and we would like to take this opportunity to clarify that he is no longer an EDELRID sponsored athlete, and in actuality has not been supported by the brand for over 12 months. We will be removing all references to Ivan Greene from the EDELRID website with immediate effect."
The fine line between agressive cleaning and the manufacturing of holds has long been a controversial topic in climbing. Whether or not Greene's actions portrayed in the video are chipping or aggressive cleaning remains a debatable point. However, the reaction from the local New York climbing scene and the statement from Edelrid seems to categorize Green's actions as the manufacturing of holds.
Chipping, while long practiced and even going back to the first ascent of Yosemite's Outer Limits and initial free attempts on The Nose (the current free variation has a chipped section, the "Jardine Traverse"), is hardly universally accepted. While some locals in sport areas such as Smith Rock and Rifle have tolerated manufactured holds, and climbers in areas with generally blank rock such as that at Riggins, Idaho, accept chipping as necessary, in the staunchly traditional Gunks, any rock alteration including bolting is greatly frowned upon. But chipping of holds on a roped climb is one thing; chipping a boulder problem has few supporters, although it does happen, sometimes after the fact and sometimes unintentionally, such as the improving of a hold due to repeated brushing. We will keep you posted as this story develops.


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Video of the Day: Grizzly bears get snowy birthday party
Hot video
Grizzly bear brothers Keema and Denali hibernated through their 20th birthday in January, along with thesnowy winter. So the Woodland Park Zoo trucked in snow so they could celebrate.
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"Scandal" goes out with a boom, as the candidates will do anything to get votes on Election Day on the season finale at 10 p.m. EDT on ABC.
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When James Franco, now starring in "Of Mice and Men on Broadway," didn't like the review he received from New York Times theater critic Ben Brantley, he took to Instagram to express his displeasure, calling Brantley names and writing in all capital letters, "The theater community hates him." Brantley described Franco's performance as "often understated to the point of near invisibility" in the play.
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Joe Kinder
Climbing dictates my entire life. Where I live, where I go, who I'm with, throughout the year.
Climbing dictates my entire life. Where I live, where I go, who I'm with, throughout the year.
Dave Graham taught me never to quit, never to say no. Dave is a fighter. He will always battle to the end on an onsight.
Dish washing was the worst job I've ever had. The lipstick on glasses and napkins made me sick to my stomach.
In college in Maine, I worked as a butcher selling game meats. I liked black bear, which is dark and stringy. Rattlesnake, with its white, fishy meat, was vile.
Guns scare me. One time the crooked owner of this game-meat market brought in his gun to show off and he accidentally shot a hole through his walk-in freezer and five other freezers belonging to other vendors.
Attending the Maine College of Art, where I majored in painting, was one of my life's biggest challenges. I got by with money I made from piercing people's eyebrows, lips, tongues and belly buttons (anything other than their d—ks). I'd charge $60 per hole.
My first sponsor was Five Ten, and this was a huge deal. I told all my friends at school. My parents were proud.
When you have people that believe in you, the sky is the limit.
My father is a salesman. He taught me you have to ask for the sale, and always shoot high. Always negotiate higher and get what you think you deserve.
A lot of people think that performance alone is what gets climbers an opportunity to make a living as a professional. That used to be me. Now, I know performance is only two percent of the equation.
You have to self-promote. My blog gets 2,500 visitors per day. Experiencing climbing through the Internet, for some, is a bigger part of their climbing lives than actual climbing. I try to bring that vicariousness to my blog and make it entertaining.
When there's a camera present at the crag, it's always a little invasive. Sometimes I get embarrassed.
Establishing lines has become an obsession that rivals the satisfaction of climbing. After you redpoint a line, you're done: onto the next one. Putting up a new route feels more permanent. Even after you've climbed it, a part of you is still there, waiting for the next person's ascent.
Dani Andrada is a G. He'll walk into the campground at Siurana, and has this natural confidence that everyone is drawn to. He makes very little money, bolts like a mad man and climbs hard. I like to think there's a little part of me that is like that as well.
Traveling is a test of character. Get out of your comfort zone. It's defining. As a climber, traveling is the greatest gift you can give yourself.
The generosity of the climbing community is unbelievable. So many friends have provided me a room or a couch to sleep on. I owe people big time and I can't wait to be able to return the favor.
The worst climbing partners are competitive. When I'm out with Jon Cardwell and Dave Graham, it's the greatest vibe. Intense focus and happy confidence. It doesn't have to be them, though. I enjoy climbing with anyone who is having a good time.
Art and bolting are related because you are creating something for others to enjoy, hate, talk about and experience.
At 30, I am smarter, more mature, and a lot more thoughtful. My girlfriend, Colette McInerney, taught me to think about other people. How to be symmetrical to someone else. It's not just about me.


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Salad with Dressing Edited
March 28, 2017
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I'm Lisa – a married mama of one ninja-monkey toddler living in the cornfields of the Midwest. I'm so happy you're sharing our journey with us! Here you'll find family friendly recipes, kids/toddler related posts, and anything this mama is loving. I hope you also find a place of kindness and acceptance here. It takes a village, mamas!
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Homeschooling State by State ⎢@EvaVarga.net
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你好!Welcome to my little corner of the web. I'm Eva Varga, mom to two amazing kids age 17 and 15. My oldest will be attending university in the fall and my youngest is currently dual enrolled at the local community college. Here you will learn more about our independent & authentic homeschooling journey as well as our travel experiences. Subscribe if you want ideas, lessons, and encouragement for homeschooling naturally with purpose and confidence! ♥
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Delete Key Awards Finalist #10 – From The Secret by Rhonda Byrne:
"The most common thought that people hold [about fat], and I held it too, is that food was responsible for my weight gain. That is a belief that does not serve you, and in my mind now it is complete balderdash! Food is not responsible for putting on weight. It is your thought that food is responsible for putting on weight that actually has food put on weight."
If this is true, how can you lose weight? Byrne suggests that you stop looking at fat people:
"If you see people who are overweight, do not observe them, but immediately switch your mind to the picture of you in your perfect body and feel it."
So if that low-carb diet isn't working, maybe you should stop watching those weigh-ins on The Biggest Loser.
The ten Delete Key Awards finalists are being announced in random order from No. 10 to No. 1.
© 2008 Janice Harayda. All rights reserved.


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Downey Jr. signs on for 2 more 'Avengers' films
Associated Press
NEW YORK - Robert Downey Jr. has signed up for two more "Avengers" films.
Marvel announced Thursday that the actor will reprise his role as Iron Man/Tony Stark for "The Avengers 2" and "The Avengers 3." Downey Jr. has played the character in a trilogy of "Iron Man" movies, as well as the first superhero ensemble "Avengers" film, which made $2.7 billion worldwide.
Joss Whedon is to return as director of the next "Avengers" film. He is writing the screenplay now. Production is to begin in March, with a theatrical release in May 2015.
The 48-year-old actor had previously suggested "Iron Man 3" might be his last spin in a stand-alone "Iron Man" film. Marvel's announcement made no mention of an "Iron Man 4" release.


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PHOENIX—Police are searching for a 70-year-old man suspected in a Phoenix office shooting that left one dead and two wounded, saying that he is "armed and dangerous."
Police identified the suspect as Arthur D. Harmon. They identified a man who died hours after the Wednesday morning shooting as 48-year-old Steve Singer. He's the CEO of Fusion Contract Centers Inc.
Police say a 43-year-old man was listed in critical condition along with a 32-year-old woman.
Police didn't release the names of the wounded, but a Phoenix law firm, Osborn Maledon, said one of its lawyers, Mark Hummels, was among the wounded.
The firm said he "was representing a client in a mediation" when he was shot.
As police searched for the shooter, SWAT teams and two armoured vehicles surrounded his house about 11 kilometres from the shooting scene. Police served a search warrant to enter the home.
For a time, officers, believing the shooter was inside, used a megaphone to ask him to surrender.
The gunfire at the office complex prompted terrified workers to lock the doors to their offices and hide far from the windows. SWAT officers searched the building.
"Everyone was just scared, honestly, just scared," said Navika Sood, assistant director of nursing at First at Home Health Services who, along with her co-workers, locked the entrances to their office.
Sood said police evacuated the office about 30 minutes after she first heard the popping noises.
The shooting took place on the same day that hearings on legislation to address gun violence were convened in Washington, with former Arizona congresswoman Gabrielle Giffords testifying for stricter gun controls.
Around 10:30 a.m., the gunman arrived at the office building and got into a dispute with someone, a conflict that escalated to the point where he drew a gun and shot three people, Thompson said.
Vannessa Brogan, who works in sales support at an insurance business in the three-storey complex, said she heard a loud bang that she thought at first was from somebody working in or near the building.
She said others at the business thought they heard multiple loud noises. She said people locked themselves in offices until authorities evacuated the complex that houses insurance, medical and law offices.
Becky Neher, who works for a title company in the building, said the two gunshots she heard sounded like two pieces of metal banging against each other.
Watching from her second-story office, she saw people leaving the building.
"Someone yelled, 'We have a shooter,' " she said. She saw two victims lying on the ground outside the back side of the building. She said health-care workers who have offices in the complex came out to help.
Don Jaksa, a software consultant who works in the building, said he was listening to the radio when he suddenly heard "two pops." He said he didn't think they were gunshots.
"My co-worker goes to the range all the time," he said. "He identified it as gunfire."
His co-worker then locked the door. After five minutes, they left and ran into police and someone carrying a stretcher. The police escorted them back to their office and told them to lock the door again.
They were eventually evacuated, and as he sat on a rock outside the complex, his wife called to make sure he was OK after seeing the shooting on the news.
Workers were later allowed to leave the building. Two hugged each other when they got outside.
"You don't expect this when you come to work," worker Lindsa Rincon said.


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Pregnant former Olympian dies, baby saved
HARTFORD, Conn. - A former Olympic and professional runner from Ethiopia who was due to give birth in three weeks has died after collapsing at a Connecticut restaurant, but doctors were able to save her baby, her friends said Wednesday.
Meskerem Legesse, 26, who lived in Westport, Conn., was with her 2-year-old son when she collapsed at a Chinese restaurant in Hamden on Monday, said her friend, Fatima Sene. She was transported to a hospital where she died and the baby was saved, Sene said.
The cause of death wasn't clear. Sene said Legesse had suffered heart problems in the past.
"It is very sad. She was a very good person," Sene said. "She would do anything for anybody. And she loved that little boy she left behind."
Legesse ran in the 1,500 meter competition at the Athens Olympics in 2004. She finished 12th in a first-round heat with a time of 4:18:03 and didn't advance to the medal race. She moved on to a professional running career in the U.S., competing in events including the Boston Indoor Games, Fifth Avenue Mile in Manhattan and the Millrose Games in New York. She apparently hadn't raced within the past few years.
Legesse's children are now with their father, and arrangements are being made to bring Legesse's body to Ethiopia, Sene said. Legesse was planning to get married to the children's father, she said.
Legesse's death was first reported by Hartford-area CBS affiliate WFSB-TV, which obtained surveillance video from the restaurant showing Legesse entering with her son, sitting down in a chair and collapsing to the floor within seconds. Legesse had ordered takeout and was picking it up, said Sene's sister, Fatima Cisse, another friend of Legesse.
Legesse knew the two sisters from a hair salon down the street from the Chinese restaurant, they said.
Hamden firefighters and paramedics with American Medical Response were called to the restaurant at about 2 p.m. Monday and performed CPR on a pregnant woman who collapsed, according to fire and police officials who did not release the woman's name.
Doctors at Yale-New Haven Hospital were able to save the baby because of the CPR efforts both in the restaurant and in the ambulance on the way to the hospital, Hamden Fire Chief David Berardesca said.
A spokeswoman for the state medical examiner's office said the agency declined to perform an autopsy, citing Legesse's past health problems. She declined to elaborate.
A Yale-New Haven Hospital spokesman on Wednesday said he had no information about Legesse being brought there Monday.


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Trademarks are a key element of any successful business marketing strategy as directories them to identify, promote and license their services or goods in the marketplace and in addition to distinguish these from those of their competitors, thereby cementing customer loyalty. A trademark symbolizes the promise of a quality product and in the global and increasingly electronic marketplace, a trademark is truly the only way for customers to identify a company's products and services. Trademark protection hinders moves to "free ride" on the goodwill of a company by using similar distinctive signs to market inferior or similar products or services. Loss, dilution or infringement of a high-value trademark could prove devastating to a business.
World Intellectual Property Organisation (WIPO) is a specialised agency of the U . n . (UN) which oversees the task of international registration of trademarks through Madrid System.
Although it is improbable to obtain an 'international trademark', whereby a single trademark registration will automatically apply around the world, the Madrid system permits the filing, registration and maintenance of trade mark rights in more than one jurisdiction on a global basis.
The Madrid system is administered by the International Bureau of the universe Intellectual Property Organisation in Geneva, Exercise. The Madrid system comprises two treaties; the Madrid Agreement In connection with the International Registration of Marks, which was concluded in 1891 and entered into force in 1892, and the Protocol Relating to the Madrid Agreement, which came into operation on 1 April 1996. The Madrid Agreement and Madrid Protocol were adopted at diplomatic conferences held in Madrid, Spain.
Recent Developments-
There are many significant recent developments trademarks Law Vis a Vis Madrid system. The accession of United States and European Union to Madrid Protocol on 2nd November 2003 and 1st October 2004 respectively is considered as important development.
A record 36,471 international trademarks applications were received in 2006 by wipo under Madrid platform. This represents 8.6% increase on figures for 2005.
No. Of developing countries witnessed significant growth in international trademarks filing in 2006.China is the most accepted designation for international protection because of ever growing economy and trade turns.
WIPO also promotes use of electronic communication for processing of international software applications. In April 2006, WIPO introduced a new online international trademarks renewal service enabling users to maintain their trademarks rights quickly and efficiently, about 22% renewals recorded electronically.
A number of latest improvements, including new search facilities, were also introduced for the ROMARIN database containing information regarding all international marks usually are currently in force in the international trademark register. As from January 1, 2007, the ROMARIN data base was made available, free-of-charge, on the WIPO web web site.
Indian Perspective-
India is also considering and is usually inclined towards granting accession to the Madrid system. India is beginning in order to the various attributes of acceding to the Madrid System, in particular that, the applicant for an International registration is needed file only one application, pay one fee in local currency, and is not needed at least initially, to submit foreign powers of lawyers. Renewals, assignment recorders, changes of name and/or address of a worldwide registration may be affected by filing one document with the International Bureau. Moreover, the payment of single filing fee and preparation of someone application should potentially provide savings in legal service fees.
India has claimed that it would join the Madrid System after making due preparations, including modernisation Transfer of Trademark Rights in India its trademark offices. Investment and action in this direction should be expedited and Indian providers of services and goods enabled to use the system without further delay. It needs to be noted how the Madrid System does not prevent trademark owners from routing their application through the IP offices of member-countries other than their own. If India does not accede to the software early, Indian businesses may be expected to put in their international applications from the IP offices of third countries by setting up minimal operations prescribed for this purpose.


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While Adele is OK with her weight, occasionally the Internet is not. "I read a comment on YouTube that I thought would upset me — 'Test pilot for pies' — but I've always been fine with it. I would only lose weight if it affected my health or sex life, which it doesn't." Shit, yes. You can't help but wonder what Adele's reaction would be to Lady Gaga bringing her weight up in that sort of—can I say it?—well, sorta whiny way in response to her own weight-shaming by the media ("Adele is bigger than me — how come nobody says anything about it?" asked Gaga, then going on to praise Adele's confidence). Naturally, Adele's too classy to respond to that a public forum. She's so classy we don't even know her kid's name.
Also: Really? "Test pilot for pies"? Way to go on that burn, you dumb troll. [The Sun]
Some things Rihanna did:
- Donated 1,000 sleeping bags to Sandy victims, will hold a hurricane fundraiser party for her new album at Jay-Z's 40/40 Club. [NYDN]
- Said that choosing to duet on "Nobodies Business" with Chris Brown is nobody's business. [Digital Spy]
- Played grab-ass with a Victoria's Secret model on the runway. [Us Weekly]
Kristen Stewart would like to inform you that she is likely to star in the probable sequel to Snow White and The
Non-Penetrative Infidelity Huntsman: "No one's positive [it'll happen] or anything, but I think there's a strong possibility." And there is a one hundred percent chance that I am totally ambivalent about this news. So. [THR]
This is a commercial for Britney Spears' new perfume "Fantasy Twist." Topnotes of hibiscus, ginger; subtle hints of a White Castle Crave Case, the tears of personal assistants, general pandemonium.
Lindsay Lohan has cancelled her much-anticipated upcoming 20/20 interview with Barbara Walters—breaking her alleged deal with Liz & Dick producers to do the interview in exchange for them to pay off her massive Chateau Marmont bill—because she "didn't like the direction it was going in." Furthermore, her personal assistant, a beleaguered gentleman known here only as Gavin, says that cops "twisted his words" about her summer car accident. Regina George is obviously behind it all. [E!, TMZ]
"The texture just felt so good!' Jenny McCarthy admits she tried to have sex with a tree while high on ecstasy," reads a headline that just needs no further exposition which is great because it's 9 AM and this is usually when I go hump an elm and yell DON'T FUCKING LOOK AT ME. [Daily Mail]
- Taylor Swift is open to dating a ginger. Who isn't?! [Monsters and Critics]
- Katie Holmes has enjoyed Franzia in her day. Who hasn't?! [Us Weekly]
- Amanda Bynes and a VH1 correspondent named Janelle Snowden were at the same nail salon at 2 AM on election night, and Bynes was not into chatting about the election. Bynes/Snowden 2016! [Page Six]
- This is the first picture of Reese Witherspoon's new baby Tennessee James Toth. [Us Weekly]
- Some woman tripped on Jamie Foxx's sidewalk and she's suing him now. Trufacts. [Monsters and Critics]
- Bradley Coop-a-doop almost said no to his Sexiest Man Alive title. [ABC News]
- Bryan Adams is gonna be a dad for the second time. [People]
- Scarlett Johansson got a "prison style" horseshoe tattoo, which brings the number of Scarlett Johansson's "prison style" attributes to approximately one (1). [The Frisky]
- Heidi Klum gushed about her liebchen (in English: "beloved fucknugget"), bodyguard Martin Kristen, in a German magazine. [E!]
- Kate Walsh, who is great incidentally, is writing a sitcom about her life with her boyfriend and his kids. [Access Hollywood]
- Ben Affleck put out a casting call for young extras while shooting Argo and a bunch of Olds showed up instead. Hijinks. [Daily Star]
- Brooke Shields defended her recently-deceased mother Teri from people who criticized her for allowing the young Shields to do nude scenes in films like Pretty Baby. [E!]
- Erin Heatherton is OK after her split from Leonardo (or that guy who played in Fargo; I think his name was Steve). [Us Weekly]
- Justin B33bo tried to get it in with some Victoria's Secret models. [Page Six]
- Nigel Barker's negatives are in danger after Sandy, and that means we might lose a treasure trove of Round 1 derpfaces on ANTM. Time to rally, America. [Page Six]
- Pharell Williams and Alexa Chung were either nuzzling or just in the same room. Hard to say. [Page Six]
- Al Pacino had dinner with a blonde woman in her 30s. [Page Six]
- This picture of Miley Cyrus holding wads of cash while men gyrate in her face on Ellen. [NYDN]
- Kate Hudson got acne and her hair fell out after she gave birth to her second child. [Radar Online]
- Um, UM, Octomom's kids might have had access to her Xanax. End of days. [Radar Online]


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2018 Subaru Awards
J.D. Power Award Recipient
Each year, J.D.Power presents awards for quality, dependability and performance, to a select few models within the marketplace that have ranked highest within their category. Awards are also given for car dealership sales and service experience to those brands that rank highest in the industry. Subaru did not receive a J.D.Power award in 2018.
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