text:
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A transcript of Bob
Lincoln's 2011 talk
I'm Bob Lincoln. I'm an engineer and a self-taught mechanic, and I thought I'd share a little bit of that knowledge with you here today.
I've been working on cars for over 30 years. I go back to the days of carburetors and breaker-point ignitions and no sensors on cars. Today's cars have become pretty complex and it's tough to keep up with it if you still want to do your own work.
Most of my cars are from the 1990s, and they're in the middle of that gap between the latest technology and the more traditional stuff. But I will try to share with you some knowledge about sensors that can go wrong in the car and stop you dead, or give you a lot of grief. We'll go through several of those right now.
This particular one is called a throttle position sensor, and this is mounted on the throttle body, on the throttle shaft. And it rotates with the throttle shaft. Inside this is a variable resister for the wiper arm, and the voltage from the car's computer to this provides the electrical signal which changes as the throttle opens and closes. The range of voltage is typically between .8 and 4 volts with a four inch motion, and this is a sensor that helps the car decide how to set the air fuel mixture by knowing how far open the throttle is.
It can cause you a fair amount of grief if it gets the wrong signal, and normally the way these fail is they get a dead spot or intermittent spots and the wiper on this fizzes. Really it's just a thin, brass plate across variable resistance and a little pointer arm that scrapes across it. So there's your wear-out mechanism.
There's three terminals, 5 volts, ground and signal. And this sometimes will set a defect code or fault code in the computer but usually not when it fails because the computers only look for too high or too low a voltage and they don't look for any problems in-between. And that's true of most of the sensors up until today's.
You can find out if there's a problem with this device called a multimeter, which is a voltmeter, amp meter and an ohm meter. Cross the center terminal and one of the other terminals with the leads and look for a change in resistance, and it should be a nice clean sweep in value. You can use an analog meter which has a needle, and that could be more useful to visually get the effect, but you're looking for unusual resistance readings.
The range on this one runs from zero to 5,000 ohms and the center pin and one of the side pins will give you the reading, and the center pin and the other side pin will give you the opposite end of the scale. So it's zero ohms on one end and 5,000 on the other so one will increase and the other will decrease. This is actually showing about 10 ohms on one end which is close to zero, it'll never be exactly zero, and as I rotate this – I can do that with my thumb – that reading will change and I now get about 30… about 37 ohms. So this will crank all the way up as I rotate this.
It's about a $20 to $30 part, and it just has an electrical plug and two screws so it's pretty simple to change. You just have to make sure that you engage the little tabs here properly when you put the new one on. But some of the symptoms that will cause are stumbling or interment idle or sometimes even a failure to start or stalls immediately after starting.
This one is the oxygen sensor; the computer uses it to tell how rich the exhaust is and to decide whether to add more fuel or not. You'll see a little probe here that screws into the exhaust manifold, and it has a zirconium sensor which puts out a voltage signal proportional to the oxygen content. So two wires, again, for signal and ground, and there's two wires for heating it up because it really doesn't work effectively until it gets up to 600 degrees. When the engine is too rich, it has used up all the available oxygen, and there's extra gasoline left over, so the voltage will go high and the high end of the scale is .9 volts. When it's too lean it gets down as low as .1 volts.
There's no effective way to test it outside of the car for most people, but you can probe these wires while it's running and see if it's changing. It should flutter back and forth near the midpoint, and it can change a few times a second. If you don't see that kind of activity, it's bad and you change it. Just unplug it and unscrew it. It's usually in there pretty good, but there's a socket that slips around this wiring and you can unscrew it.
These are anywhere from $40 to typically $70, a dealer might get it at $100 even. They provide you with some anti-seize compound you can put on the threads. If you get any on the sensor, goodbye, you ruined it, because the anti-seize contaminates it.
Bosch has gotten a bad reputation among a number of people. I discovered why. I used it, and I had no problems with it, but I went to take one out of the car and the socket wouldn't quite reach onto the hex. Its length was different. And I rounded off the socket, and there it remained stuck in the engine.
This one is the OEM brand, made by Denso. It has 32 little holes stamped in it all the way around so you can get good flow through there and get an accurate reading. The Bosch sensor has eight little slits, tiny slits cut through it and it just looks inherently like the airflow is not nearly as good around it and so it won't respond as well and it can get clogged with carbon more quickly. So this is probably one where it pays to go with an OEM-type brand.
The MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) is a little molded plastic device which has a vacuum to it and electrical plugs. You have 5 volts, ground and signal. It tells the computer whether you're at full throttle or not or somewhere in-between based on the vacuum – the engine vacuum. It's assumed that if you're near full throttle, you're accelerating, there's almost no vacuum. So there is a voltage signal that is proportional to vacuum. So when you go to full throttle, you're up there almost 5 volts on the scale, and when the throttle's closed or high-vacuum you're down around ½ a volt. It's a very linear scale.
A few things can go wrong with that sensor, and there are a couple of codes associated with it. Code 13 shows as lost vacuum, and that can be that the chip is fractured. It usually means that the hose has fallen off or split open or there's a massive vacuum leak somewhere else in the car. I've even had it when the engine momentarily almost stalled, and the vacuum dropped low just because the engine was stalled and it tripped that code which would make it think it was the sensor.
Code 14 is associated with it and that's the sensor out of range, either too high or too low of voltage. I had a failure of this on my last car and it was none of those. It's just a very, very thin silicon sensor in a big circuit, and it deflects back and forth over its life, and it just sort of cold warped and its resistance value changed until the voltage signal drifted away. It's just enough so that in the mid-range of operation where you usually are, it was giving the wrong voltage to the computer so it was dumping a little extra fuel in so it was running rough and stalling, so no codes associated with that. But it dumped enough fuel in that the oxygen sensor said this thing's running rich and it tripped the sensor for the oxygen.
It can be a little complicated to diagnose these, so sometimes you have to reason through what's going on with the engine. That sensor is about $30 or so, $40 maybe, and again it's just an electrical plug and a vacuum line that screws in to mount it, so it's a five minute job to change it out. Most of them are pretty easy to reach. Sometimes they're on the throttle body, sometimes they're on the firewall. Few of the cars they're tucked away inside the passenger kick pad which is tough to get at.
This is a Hall Effect sensor, and it fires the ignition. This is inside the distributor. This takes the place of the old breaker-point ignition, and it takes the place of the reluctors and the first electronic ignition Chrysler came up with. It has a little magnetic pickup, and a shuttered wheel that slides through on your rotor, and as it passes by this it breaks the magnetic field and causes a pulse here. This plug is powered up with 8 volts, and by that passing through in there, being out of there, switches the ignition back and forth. And so it sends a digital pulse back to the computer and the computer then fires the foil.
This one is out of my turbo car. It has one pickup for the ignition and one for the fuel injection, so you've got two points of failure in one device. And sure enough, the reason this is here in this box is because it failed. I was driving near home and the car started cutting out and stalling. I got it started and stalled, started and stalled and finally made it home after a dozen tries.
Most people believe this Hall Effect sensor degrades. I don't think it's really true. It's pretty much the wiring. I mean, you'll see creases in it where the distributor cap clamps on it, and I think the primary failure really is people pinching the wires. So if you're handy you probably could actually repair these, and I plan to repair it as a spare.
They're pretty skimpy on the length as it is, so I probably want to lengthen it. So I'm probably going to get some new wire. This one's for the fuel pickup and this one's for the ignition. They're powered by 8 volts which comes out of the computer. We could also just have a problem with the plug being intermittent. Easy to get out, you just take the two screws off the distributor cap, you pull the rotor off and it slips right out. These go anywhere from about $60 to $120 depending on where you buy it. Some of them are a little hard to find, the turbo one in the two pickups, so that's why I'd rather fix it and take my chances.
This is a good time to say a word about the connectors. Sensors can and do fail, but just as often you'll find the connections fail. These connectors are brass and they're templated, and there's a couple problems with that in a mobile environment like a car. One is that the contacts tend to rub against each other back and forth, back and forth, it's just a micro-motion but it's enough that it displaces some of that tin and then it oxidizes and insulates and you start getting intermittent contact. You can pull it out and plug it back in and get the crud out of the way and you're fine.
There's a couple ways to avoid problems long-term, and one is periodically clean it. Take it out like that and just clean it with a toothpick or get a brush in there. But the corrosion can also get in there just from water, and one of the best ways to avoid that is dielectric grease, and that is a non-conductive grease you can find at radio shack or a lot of automotive supply stores and you just fill the whole cavity. Just pack it in. When you plug it in, the contacts scrape against each other and that removes the grease in the contact area itself which is why it's non-conductive but it works when you plug them together because the grease gets displaced and you've got metal on metal rubbing against each other, very tightly surrounded by grease.
Someone had a question a couple of years back on the forum saying dielectric grease is the worst thing to use. It's an insulator, you can't put that in there. It's non-conductive. Well that's right, it blocks out everything else. But the contact ends are a tight enough fit that they force the grease out of the way and it surrounds the rest of the connection.
Is there a problem with contacts spreading? Because you've got a pin and sleeve, and the sleeves are sometimes spread out and you've got to kind of get it back in.
Exactly. And that is pretty common. As you see, these are the pins with the male contact, and the mating one is the female contact. It's just a roll-barrel, and yep, over time they can just relax. Metal just ages and temperature changes cause them to relax or if it flexes at all. So it's pretty hard to get in there and do much about it. If you can get needle-nose pliers in and just kind of bend it back a little tighter, pinch it down just a tiny bit, that's a good thing to do because we really want a nice, tight connection on that. Other than that, there's not much you can do but replace it if you have that much of a problem. But definitely…
They don't have these connectors available for you to be able to replace one either.
You pretty much can't buy these in most stores because the connectors made for the automotive industry are more rugged and specialized. If you're making a million cars a year, you can go to a connector manufacturer and say I want one exactly the way I want it and it doesn't get sold to anybody else. It's not in the catalog necessarily. But what you can do is buy both halves of any standard connector, snip these off and make your own termination if you really get stuck and you want to do that. Just choose a good connector that's pretty much as waterproof as you can get it to be, has a good tight seal. But that's always an option if it's hard to find.
Let's see, other essentials. One other vice that can give you a problem, it's not really a sensor per se, it's called the air-idle speed motor, or AIS, and it's a stepper motor with a plunger. Essentially just an electric motor that moves a plunger back and forth from the throttle body, and its purpose is pretty much that of the choke on an old carburetor. It does the same thing as a choke. It has a plunger that blocks off an air passage, so it's just providing more or less air into the throttle passageway and it's controlled by the computer. And it can act irrationally depending on whether there's a connector problem or whether the computer gets bad input from one of these other sensors and tells it to run the wrong direction, whether it's stalling out or running too rich or too lean or when you're decelerating it may close off or open up and it'll change the idle speed.
I had one malfunction once and it was causing the car to stay at a high idle. It would stay at about 2-3000 RPMs. I'd be coasting along at 40 miles an hour and the car's driving itself. It acted like a stuck throttle plate, but it wasn't. It was just this had opened up enough and let enough extra air through that the idle had just stayed up and I drove for over a mile on level ground, 40 miles an hour without it slowing down. Just coasting.
The other thing that causes that is a vacuum leak. With my current car, that happened just the throttle body loosened up on the manifold and there was enough of a vacuum leak for that that it was behaving the same way and I almost replaced the air-idle speed motor and I ended up instead going down and just tightening the bolts a little tighter and it was fixed.
Look for the simple things first, and the least expensive things, and try not to buy parts until you're sure you really need them. It's just a matter of knowing how these sensors all interact and what can cause the problem.
The oxygen sensor, it adjusts the fuel mixture. It only operates at about 600 degrees, so the computer ignores it the first few minutes your car is running from a cold start. So if your car won't start, it's impossible for this to be the cause of it. If it suddenly starts acting up two minutes into your drive, chances are it's one of the first places you should look because now it's suddenly looking at its input and now it's causing problems. And it can cause bucking and stalling and poor acceleration and gas mileage to drop by over a third.
One of the diagnostic tools for the MAP sensor, you can test it outside the car and check the voltage, but the voltage versus the vacuum you can measure by applying a vacuum to it. This is a hand vacuum pump. If I block this off, you can see from the gauge I can simulate the engine vacuum on the sensor. I just plug this in the sensor, crank it up over 20 inches and then I can put 5 volts across the sensor and I can measure it with this voltmeter.
You wonder, how do we get 5 volts? If you're an electrical engineer you sketch out a little circuit. This cost about $12 to make with Radio Shack parts. It's a voltage regulator, and it takes this 9 volts and changes it down to 5 volts and there's a little switch to turn it on and off, and there's my 5 volts and my ground and I just have to find a way to hook this up to the pins and I've got a 5 volt power supply I can test the sensors with.
This is going to be used to test the throttle position sensor, it can be used to test the MAP sensor, or the cooling temperature sensor. And that's the last one we have to talk about. The engine also uses a cooling temperature sensor and that screws into the thermostat housing and it is a variable resistor which changes with temperature dramatically. It's used to set the mixture for cold operation versus hot operation. When the engine's cold, the sensor is roughly 13,000 to 15,000 ohms and if the engine's warm it falls down to about 1,000 ohms or even a little bit less. So it's a steep curve. The reading changes rapidly as it warms up.
That sensor can go bad, and if it does or if it gets unplugged the computer will think the engine is cold and the reading's gone to infinity and it'll start putting extra fuel in to compensate. So the car will run fine when it's cold, and when it's hot you won't be able to start it or it'll run poorly or stall. That sensor you can just simply put an ohm meter across and measure the resistance. If the engine's cold you can get a good reading, 13,000 ohms or so. When it's warm, assuming you can run the car until it gets warm, you'll see the reading plummet down to about 1,000 or maybe even 600 ohms and it should be a quick, smooth change. If you see any intermittent operation or if it doesn't reach that, you unscrew it, a little coolant starts pouring out, you get a new one with some Teflon tape and you screw it in. It costs about $20 or so. It just unplugs and unscrews. And those are the sensors that affect the operation of the car most critically.
What about the speed-distance sensors? I had an issue with one that gave me fits and I was reading one place that they said the speed-distance sensor is actually what sets the fuel MAP.
It is used in setting the air-fuel ratio in certain conditions, that's true. The speed-distance sensor, again, is a hall effect sensor just like the one in your distributor. It's a shutter device, and it gives out eight pulses per rotation. It's in the transmission and the transaxle. Some of them are two-wired, some are three-wired depending on whether they have to run voltage to it. When it comes into play is when you are decelerating. As the computer takes the input from all the other sensors, it reads whether the vehicle is in motion and decides whether it has to keep the idle up a little bit longer as the car's coasting down to a stop. And when it knows the car's going to stop then it drops down to the regular curve idle.
If that pulse is missing, it'll think the vehicle is stopped and it won't hold that idle up so you can be decelerating and the idle will just plunge down to its 800 or so RPMs and that may cause it to stumble or stall out on you as it's slowing down. It's also used by the cruise control as input to know whether the vehicle's moving or not. And there's not a whole lot you can do about that but replace it. There's no good way to test it because like I said it's like a hall effect sensor. Unless you pull it out of the car and spin it and put it on a volt meter, you can perhaps count the pulses. But they pretty rarely go bad. It's almost always a connector because it's down there in the transmission and it's covered in oil half the time and that's usually what fouls up the signal. Occasionally one will get brittle since they're made of hard plastic, so you may occasionally find one that's actually fractured a little bit and you just pick the pieces out and put a new one in. They run – I haven't bought one lately, but I'm going to say they're probably somewhere around the $50 to $60 range maybe. I had to replace one for $35 a long, long time ago, 20 years ago. So they're probably $50 to $60 range, maybe a little more.
It takes the place of the speedometer cable. Which is nice because speedometer cables are a real pain when you have to remove the dashboard and you have to put your gauge back in and connect it before you can pull out enough cable to get your hand in there to reach. So you typically disconnect it at the transmission and pull all that shell.
Some cars have two, an input and output speed sensor depending on how they're setup just to make it more complicated. There's only one on a lot of older cars. It's funny I say older because it doesn't seem old to me. It's my car and daily driver.
I don't know if an '88 has a speed-distance sensor and it's got the cable hose. Then later on you've got the same thing, but with a stub on it, and I have a cap on it on another car. Then a third car has four wires going into it or three wires going into it, and no cable and it's just flat. And that's what went into the…
That just shows the evolution. Because the computer was using the speed sensor even when they had a speedometer cable. They were using it for the purposes of holding the idle up and for the cruise control. And the other thing you'll find too is there's different ratios for the gearing on the speed sensor. The gear itself is reusable, if you disconnect it and pop it on the new sensor. And they've made 19, 20 and 21-tooth sensors depending on what your tire size is and your axle ratio. I've had to play around with that because the car I just bought, it was reading 2.5% low on the odometer but dead-on on the speedometer. So I got one with a different number of teeth and put that in and it was reading +5%. So I put the other one back in and decided it's better.
There's a chart in the service manual on what gear to use.
Yep, and it still gives a 2.5% error which is a little too much for this one. But if you change tire size, you want to look at possibly changing speed sensor because everything will be off. So the signal for the speed sensor goes up to the dashboard, goes up the instrument panel, and from there it goes out to the computer and from the instrument panel it goes to the gauges. So there is a circuit on the instrument panel that's called a DAC, Digital-Analog Converter, and that's what drives your analog gauges. It converts that signal to an analog signal which is your sweeping-dial gauge, and that will drive your speedometer.
The odometer is typically driven by a stepper motor, so the signal is still in its raw digital format and drives this little motor that turns the odometer gears. And most of us know about the prices of odometer gears. If your odometer breaks and your speedometer is still working, there's a little 20-tooth blue gear in there that's made of material that gets brittle over the years and one or may teeth snap off. It may act intermittently and then quit or it may just quit suddenly. There's a website, I think he's a sponsor so I'll say it, odometergears.com. $25 plus $4 shipping gets you this little gear. This guy has actually made the mold for it and it's a better plastic and more durable, and you have to use tweezers and maybe a drill and a little prying to get in and pop the new gear in, but once it's in there you're all set.
And one of the things, by the way, that can fracture that gear is if you reset your odometer while you're in motion. I used to do that without thinking and it's not a good idea because the gears are always turning, and if you hit that reset button there's a chance you can grind them. So I always make a point of being parked at the pumps when I write down my mileage reading then punch the button before I get into motion again and it hasn't broken yet. So with that, I think that's about everything I had for today. If you had any questions I'll be glad to answer them.
If you take an AIS motor and make it work outside of the car so you can retract it, or see that it's stopped… or pull wires, see if it's the windings maybe?
There are, to drive it in and out. And in fact the instructions tell you if the plunger is protruding more than once inch you're supposed to retract it before it goes in so that you won't force it into the throttle body and crank it and then damage it.
The tester, but how do you do a battery pack or…?
Yeah, they do. And I've looked at the schematic for it and I still have not figured out which pins to drive which polarity, but you put 12 volts and ground to a couple of pins and you should be able to retract it. But I haven't had an occasion to try that yet. That's something I want to experiment with.
The inner two's one and the outer two's another.
Pins one and four are tied together and two and three are tied together.
The middle two is like going one direction; the outer two are going the other. But which one is the plus and the minus? No, it's actually two motors thrown together. You power one coil that runs one way, because all it is is just a stepper motor. If you put the plus one center, yeah, one and four is one coil, two and three is another.
That's something I want to try and document, and once I figure that out I'll put that up there. There are instructions on the Internet for just plugging in the connector in the car and turning the ignition on and driving it certainly. Yeah. There are a couple of generations of AIS motor, and the newer ones are pretty simple. It's really just a little phalange with a plunger. The one in my 1984 turbo is this big, long cylinder. They're very hard to find and they tend to malfunction more but people have opened them up and tinker with them and managed to get them working again. Right, yeah, and sometimes they come apart internally or something goes wrong. So I hope I never have to experiment with it, but if I ever get a spare one I'll play around with it.
I think that's the one you see in all the descriptions of them because I've never seen my '88 being listed. It had the little pinhole style.
Kind of like that shuttered…
Yeah, every instruction talks about the shutter.
I think the other one has six pins on it and the new one has four. I think. Like with anything else, you really want to try and figure it out before you go tinkering with it because there's nothing worse than learning on your own and breaking it and saying now I made things worse and now I have to go out and spend the money to buy something when I could've fixed it myself.
On our website are all the fault codes. Most people don't know about the key dance method where you can look up fault codes there. They're not infallible but they're a very good guide and probably the first thing you should do.
Coming down here this weekend, my car broke down ten miles into the trip. The engine just quit and I coasted to the side of the road, and of course the first thing I do was the key dance and I got Code 55, end of message, no fault found. And it cranked and it wouldn't start. So by the side of the road there wasn't a lot that I could do besides pull the distributor cap and look inside, and I found that the ignition rotor was charred and the sensor button on the distributor cap was charred. I called the tow truck, they brought the car home, I bought the new parts and put them in, made no difference. So something else is wrong.
So now we're going to get into the diagnostics of do I have fuel pressure at the fuel rail? I'll just crank it with the engine cold so I don't start a fire, push the straighter pin to see if a little fuel squirts out and if there's fuel there I know it's working so the injectors I'm sure are still good. If not, then I'll go looking for the spark. They make a nice little device, inline tester for spark you can plug into the boot of the spark plug wire and it has an alligator clip you can just ground to the engine and an adjustable gap.
I had an '86 Dodge 600 and it quite on me on the side of the road, and I found out it was called the Z1 circuit. It cuts off the fuel. It cuts off the injectors and the fuel well.
Z1 is a ground.
It's by the battery, and you get battery corrosion from the battery on that plug that's right beside the battery and that was a simple fix, but it took me three days to find it.
Grounding is probably one of the biggest causes of trouble in the car. Intermittent operation can start right quick, and yeah, Z1 is a ground which also connects back to the alternator circuit. So yeah, there was a braided strap on these cars that runs through either fuel rail or intake manifold from the firewall, and if that breaks you will lose your fuel injection, you will lose most of your sensor grounds, and then the car will just quit right then and there and you're stuck.
If it gets loose it'll drive you crazy.
If it gets loose then you'll have voltages fluttering around which will cause all kinds of strange operation. There's a ground from the negative voltage – negative battery terminal – down to the fender well, and that provides the ground for your computer so if you lose that your computer will have floating voltages in it. And of course the ground from the battery to the block, and then there's another sensor ground on a lot of these cars. There's a ring-turn terminal that goes to the driver's side block and that's the ground for the oxygen sensor and some of the others, the throttle-position sensor. And that wire often flexes and breaks, so I've had to replace that.
Are there any problems with the motor mount jumper?
It's missing on my current car. I'm going to make a new one Monday. It doesn't cause any electrical problems. It's there for two reasons, and one of them may be more legend than fact. One of them is it's there to prevent electrical noise – higher frequency noise – from the spinning drive train to be transmitted through the cross-chassis. The other claim is from a galvanic corrosion issue to make sure that there's no voltage potential difference between the axle and the engine frame. I'm not so sure of that because that just doesn't seem like it's a good enough connection to begin to deal with that problem. But you do want to have that connection.
Braided grounds versus regular hookup wire, the braided strap acts as a band-pass filter. It actually filters noise out up to several hundred kilohertz, so it acts almost like an RC network. That's why you don't run just regular wire to replace a braided strap. It filters out noise up to several thousand hertz, so if you start getting a lot of radio noise where you didn't have any before and you replaced that ground or that strap broke, replacing it with a braided ground strap should eliminate that noise.
Let me ask you a quick question. you've got a braided ground strap that goes from the back of the engine to the firewall. you've got your connection – negative battery goes to the body, and it also connects to the engine. Why don't the battery vibrations just travel along the wire that goes from the battery to the body?
The shortest path to your radio and to your gauges is through the firewall ground. So that's the one that you address. That's where you can snub it out. If you try to snub it out further away, it could get regenerated or higher frequencies can find their way through and still cause problems. So that's why it's used close to the source of trouble. There are kits out there – one of our members has used one, Monster Cable, and he swears by it. It's a grounding kit.
They can work very well or they may cause problems, and people who've had no problems don't like to hear that it could actually cause a problem. But you can cause a problem with too many ground connections if you start adding ground connections, and the reason is you start creating what's called a ground loop. If you have two ground wires running to the same piece of metal, fire wall or whatever, if one is a slightly poor connection or higher resistance because it's a thinner wire you are going to get more current conducted through one than the other one and you are going to get a slight voltage differential between the two. Now whatever gauge or device is closer to that defective ground, it could be floating a tenth of a volt above or below the true ground that you want, and if it's enough you can get a voltage difference that can start throwing your sensors off.
So more grounds are not necessarily better. You really want to rework the factory grounds the way they were. It's not add this in parallel because bigger can be better. So you have to be careful. If you use one of those kits, you don't want to leave the factory one in place in parallel with it if you add a new cable. You don't want to have a ground of a different wire diameter than the other one because you're going to get slightly different resistance through it and you're going to start to setup these ground loops. And as I said, depending on the magnitude of it you may never detect it and therefore people love these kits and they love the car performs better because you restored a ground that was defective with this new expensive kit. You could've done the same thing maybe by fixing the factory wire, the factory connection, for almost no money at all. But some people think that aftermarket has to be better than what the engineers did at the factory. Occasionally that's right, but not often when it comes to something like that. The electrical engineers really knew what they were doing when they designed these cars.
Do you have any source for schematics for the clusters? How to repair those when they start malfunctioning?
No. I have the factory service manuals for my car and they don't have it in there. All they have is the pin out, the connections to it, because it's proprietary and they're not so much worried about someone stealing their design, it just that it never occurs to them that anybody's going to try to service their design, that we're actually going to have this car 20 years later and open it up and rip it apart and start tampering with it yourself. I don't know of any way to get it because chances are Chrysler probably threw them out long ago, and they're not even in the file cabinet somewhere. It's before the days of massive electronic storage of design, so it may have even been sketched out on vellum paper or maybe in some electronic file format that's long obsolete and was never converted.
So chances are pretty poor of coming up with it. Trying to reverse-engineer was pretty tough too because there are a lot of custom circuits designed for the automotive industry, and the part numbers on them don't correspond to anything you'll find in a catalog. So you'll look at these mystery packages and you'll say what is this? And I've run into that when I've tried to tap out some of these circuits.
There's a guy on a forum that's done the radio, the laser adjustments, Jeremy Schrag. He ripped into those and that was very helpful to me this past week.
I thought that was brilliant, because you can take one that won't play a CD at all and restore and it may work forever or it may at least work for a few more years.
But it's hard to get into that pocket. There were independent repair agencies that used to do the electronic instrument cluster repairs, came down south and there was one up in Syracuse. I figured those guys must've had access to factory schematics or something along those lines.
Either that or they figured out enough of it, and they scavenged the mystery parts and they simply swap them out when they can't identify it. But yeah, they've invested the time to be able to…
Somebody here has sent clusters out to a company that specializes in redoing them, and they even restore the odometer readings and they're certified by the state to be allowed to do that. They read the mileage out of the memory in the computer before the car's restored there and they actually recertify and restore the reading to the reworked model.
But I think the person that wrote that up paid someone $700 parts and labor, so you really want to think twice about doing it. You might not want your daily driver to have that invested in it. One other thing, quick mention of this, this doesn't apply to a lot of cars but it's something that caused me some grief so I thought I'd pass the word along. If you have a late 80s to early mid-90s Chrysler product and you have a tachometer, chances are it uses what we call a small plug-in card that goes on the main instrument panel. It's the tachometer drive board, and the list price is something like $100 for this thing.
The grief that I had was my battery kept getting drawn down, and I found it was pulling 100 milliamps with the engine off, and that's a lot. My brother owned this truck and he went through four batteries and the dealer could never figure out why. The car sat while he was off in the Navy for a while. The battery went dead and he'd throw it away because it was so dead he couldn't charge it. And he sold it to me and he said just put a new battery in and just make sure you run it often.
So I measured this current draw and started pulling fuses until I found which circuit, and then I looked in the manual to find out what's off that circuit that could be causing a problem. And I noticed my tachometer's holding a reading at 1000 RPM, so I pulled that board out, brought it into work and I spent some time – not company time, lunch time of course – and I tapped out as best of the circuit as I could. There were some mystery ICs but I figured out most of the circuit, and then I found out why it was drawing 100 milliamps. And it wasn't a defect, it was the design. It was a design flaw. This thing was allowing the current to flow from battery to ground, and for some unknown reason to me they had both the ignition power and the battery power running into this tachometer circuit. You don't need a battery to power this thing because you don't have any RPMs with the engine off so why is the battery running through it? And it can't be power sequencing because they're virtually the same voltage.
So I looked this over, and a few of you might know anything about electronics. It was a 5 volt zener that they used as a power supply for the 5 volts for the rest of the circuit. And there was a transistor above it, and they had chosen a value that kept that transistor turned on. So it was sucking the 12 volts down through this transistor with the engine off and it was pulling 100 milliamps straight to ground all the while this car was plugged in. So I cut the copper trace on the circuit board to the battery and I put a jumper wire from there over to the ignition pin, put it back in and it still works exactly the way it always worked, fixed for free, and the battery is drawing zero milliamps with the engine off and I can leave it for two months and it won't draw the battery down. So that's something I've got to publish for the site too. I've got some photos and a schematic I put together, and there'll be instructions on how to fix those. Not every car shows a drawing of that much. This is my '92 Dakota, and it's also used in my '92 and '93 Daytonas. It's probably used…
In the back of the cluster?
On the back right side of the cluster. It's in that instrument pod that the Laser and the Daytona and the LaBarons all used. It was used in the Dakota trucks of that vintage. It's probably used in a lot of other products of that vintage too. For some reason, they don't all draw that much current. Maybe some years had the resistor value changed or the transistor wasn't turned on, but my car only draws 35 milliamps and the truck was drawing 100. That's a problem if you want to leave it for a month.
A difference in the production values of the actual transistor in the Zenith?
You'd think they would change the part number of the circuit board. It's the same part number. It holds the reading with the engine off.
I had two problems show up for a short period of time in cold water. One of them the tach didn't work on a cold start and I drove three or four miles down the road and all of a sudden it just sprang to life, and I had another one where I started the car and the needle flew all the way around past the stop point and I thought I was going to have to take it apart but I shut it off and started it again and it corrected itself.
But those contacts, for some reason, I guess get off sometimes?
Yes. A couple months ago my voltmeter and my oil pressure gauge stopped working. I'd start it up and they were both reading zero on my '93 Daytona. I was expecting a bigger problem maybe with the circuit board or something so I pulled the dash out, I took the clear plastic cover off the gauges, I pulled the gauge set out, plugged it back in and it worked. So it was just the tin oxide on the pins, the contacts. So I made sure I tightened the screws down a little more holding it in there and it'll probably never happen again.
Replace the ignition switch yet?
No. I've never had an ignition switch problem at all in any car ever.
The switch assembly, I don't know it was nine or ten pin towards the bottom, it was the clamshell housing that goes around the upper column/lower column. Have you seen this problem yet?
Oh. I'll be taking that apart, because I saved the steering column out of my '92 because it had cruise control and rather than try to feed the wiring through and screw around with the clock spring, I just took the whole steering column out and I'm going to be swapping it into my '93 because I saved the cruise control servo and the wiring is under the hood. But I want to preserve the same key so I'm going to have to swap the key cylinders.
It's a piece of cake. You have to pull the steering wheel. Actually, no you don't. You don't need to.
Well I'm going to swap the steering column because that's how I get the wires for the cruise control into the current car. But I want to take the key cylinder out of the '93 and put it into the '92s column and drop it in. I'm hoping the mating wiring is there for the cruise. It was under hood so I'm hoping it will be under the dash.
That's a separate connector. It's like a flat ribbon cable that comes through the column.
Okay, that's what I'm going to find out is if the mating connector's there. I want to have the cruise control on this car. I'm transferring the power locks over from the other car.
Just check that you have a nine or ten pin connector and it's not scorched because it's a white, plastic connector. So if it's browned or yellowed or bland… I have a couple that are on convertibles. I've answered a lot of questions and stuff on this site. I have friends with half a dozen of them, and that problem showed up on more than a few.
I think I may want to look for where I can mock a relay under there. Maybe just avoid the problem altogether. Yeah, it should be pretty easy because the switch is just taking the two load wires so you just put those load wires on the relay and you just have your switch now drive the core side of the relay. Okay, any other questions?
Yeah, I got the Shadow week. My son took the '93 Shadow, I guess the tach was working then it stopped working. So he went through and we swapped it from another car. That was working for a while, then he said it went out on him so we went back through and tapped all the solder joints and put it back in. It ran for a while. I got it back from him. It's not working, but that's part… no, it's not this Shadow.
You know, all the gauges on the pods I plug into these sockets, they're fitted pins, long pins, and they plug into these sockets. I went back and actually had to scrape the oxides and plug it back in. But it's always a good idea to reflow the solder joints and go through. My '84 Daytona, I've got problems with the backlighting. The circuit board, the copper's tarnished enough for me to put the bulb in and rotate this. I think the wings have relaxed on their sockets where it's not pressing in. You bend them and they just go against. I'm just going to take all the bulbs out of my newer Daytona and put them from that board into this one. If that doesn't work then I'll start building up the tin layout and soldering.
[Regarding LEDs], I saw one picture that looked really good. It looked like nice, even lighting. But I've heard a lot of them, people have just got points of light blinding back. You have to be careful how you do it, but that's probably the way to go if you're having problems. I haven't had any problems, pod-type for the back lighting so… and the bulbs almost never wore out so to me it's not worth it.
I was just thinking more like if you've got a problem where you get pulls…
If it's chronic I would change it, yeah.
you've got a bulb that every now and then, it's just hard to get to, and you figure you've got a lifespan on an LED of like infinity.
From Daniel Stern:
LED signalling lamps (brake, tail, turn...) are not a "retrofit" item in the sense of dropping in an "LED bulb." The "LED bulbs" that are available all over the Internet are dangerous junk. The brake, tail, parking, and signal lamps of your car rely on a point source of light (glowing filament) that radiates more or less equally in all directions -- a sphere of light -- collecting and distributing that light with optics in the lens and/or reflector. An LED projects a very narrow beam of light in one direction. This applies even to the "LED bulbs" that have both side-facing and rear-facing emitters.
Not only is it crucial that the intensity be within the proper limits through the relevant range of angles to provide a penetrating signal to observers at any angle, not only must the ratio between bright and dim modes be correct (for combination lamps), but the luminous lens area must not be reduced. With "LED bulbs" in lamps meant for filament bulbs, you tend to get a little dot of light with the rest of the lens almost completely unlit. Not only is the visibly lit area dimmer, it's also smaller.
I learned, anyone see the taillights in the Laser and Daytona? They were a pain to take out, and you have to take them out completely to change a bulb. There's ten bulbs in them, and the guy turned me away when one instrument marker bulb was out on one corner. It takes about 20 to 30 minutes to open up depending on how cold it is outside, then your finger's freezing up on you. But you have to basically open the hatch, take out all those plastic buttons, take that panel off, take out about nine either Allen or probably actually torque screws. They're usually frozen and rusted in badly. You're going to have to cut one, and then you pull the whole assembly out. So I learned that. If one of them is out, I spend $25 and I change out all of them at once and I feel to see if any sockets are loose and I'll replace a socket if a bulb doesn't feel tight then I won't have to worry about it for a long time.
I do that when I do instrument clusters and we need to pull the cluster out.
Now when you put LEDs in for things like turn-signal bulbs you've got to be careful because they have a much lighter inductive load. A regular incandescent light bulb has a high-resistance winding, and it's a fairly long filament so it acts like an inductor which is a voltage storage device. And they've designed your flasher to work with that load to flash at a certain rate. You put an LED in you've got a much lighter load and now the thing flashes faster, so you'd have to compensate for that by putting some kind of inductive load which would be a coil of wire. A resistive element can work to some extent if you put a wire around a resistor, but you have to do a compensation technique to get it to flash the same. [There are other problems with LEDs for exterior lights, especially brakes and turn signals — see our article.]
You can barely hear it in the car when you're driving.
My '84 Daytona it's almost silent. My '92… I have to look at the indicator on that car just to tell if it's flashing. By the way, common problem with the pod dash. I've had several problems now, and the current one is that it doesn't always cancel itself. I've had problems where it just fails to work part of the time, it just doesn't turn on, and it seems to have gotten past that somehow. It's healed itself. But now about half the time it doesn't cancel. That's a mechanical issue though because you've got that plastic arm around the steering column.
Yeah, I got what I thought was the correct one but it was the difference between 6667 I guess and I tried to trim off some of the tabs, but not enough. It's no big deal to manually…
See these cars, we have the turn signal in the instrument panel on the dash and there's somehow, it's probably an electromagnetic control on the steering column, but it cancels this thing and I haven't quite figured out how it does that. But it's going bad. It seems more often on hot days it's a problem, so if I've got the air conditioner blasting it seems to heal itself eventually. So again, it could be a solder joint opening up as it gets hot and expands, so first thing I'm going to do when I get home is pull that pod out and reflow all the solder joints and check all those wires. And if the problem goes away, that's it.
It could be inside the switch itself, in which case there's no way that's going to get fixed. I had a spare pod and I gave it to another club member so he could fix his car, so no good deed goes unpunished. Yeah, it's got to be something but it's not always tripping. My first suspect would be a bad solder joint or wiring. When it fails, both directions fail. It'll flash, it just won't cancel. Occasionally in the past it's failed to flash when I turned it on and then it healed itself, and I'm always afraid that's going to happen at inspection time. So I try to get it inspected in cooler weather. You can find a Bosch around junkyards, people selling them.
Not new?
Not new, I don't think you'll find it at a dealership at this point. It's almost 20 years old. But that switch, I looked at it and it's not mounted very well inside that pod. The wires are really stretched tightly. You know, half an inch of wire would've made a big difference so I'll be reworking it and I'll post the results if I fix it. Or if I don't fix it.
If we get enough of a database of all these problems and all these solutions, you could do what AutoZone is doing and charge for access. When it gets up to retirement age and you want to figure out how to get a steady income, start selling a subscription to this. Well, a small little bit. Or a one-time fee. That's assuming I have a car that runs of that vintage at that point.
Rust is the silent killer. That's what's getting these cars more than anything. I lost my last car to rust or I'd still be driving it today. It ran like brand new, 308,000 miles and the original engine. The clutch had gone 270,000 miles before that actually exploded, and it was all original claw joints, high-rods, axles, CB, everything. All that stuff was original, the springs… I did replace the shocks only to see if I could get a better ride. That was it for repairs. The rest was just little stuff like a water leak here or a switch there. Once it starts getting unsafe to drive, I've got a family to think of. I saved all the parts I could, so the parts are going to live on in this car.
There you go. That's what I did with my first. When that one rolled to a stop, I took out what I needed and it rolled away and the next one...
I was lucky with the '92 and '93, almost everything's identical. Everything. I've got the whole drive frame in reserve for when this one wears out. My first new car was straight out of college, an '85 Daytona base model.
I went into a dealer and I saw this little '85 five-speed, good little car. And he wouldn't get a job to afford insurance so I just kept it. That's a nice car.
I got this car thanks to a college kid. I was looking for a place in Daytona and came up on Craigslist so I go up and look at it and it's got some pretty moderate rocker rust but I know a place that can fix this now and deal with the whole thing and get it done right away. So the guy said "Yeah, we bought this as a surprise for my son graduating college. We lead him out to it, here you go, surprise, here's your car. And he said oh wow, great and he hopped in. Oh, it's a stick. I don't know how to drive a stick. I can't do this, I don't want to learn." So they sold it to me and they bought him a Subaru Outback with an automatic.
I was going home down some back roads from work one day and I came to an intersection, I'm going 25 and it's got a green light, and just as I'm in the intersection I realized that it had a very high crown for the road that crossed it. And before I could slow down – and I heard this scrape in the road, and I left a groove in the road from the oil pan. It put a dent, a crease, right at the drain plug. I drove on and I pulled over there and I looked, it looked okay, and I go home and I could see a little bit of a dripping and I thought I've got two choices. I could either degrease it thoroughly and put some JB Weld on which might not stick if I don't degrease it well enough, or get another oil pan. I'm keeping the car so I'll get another oil pan. So I went to AutoZone, and this is so easy theoretically.
Buy an oil pan. Brand new, $80. It looks fine. It's got thick, drippy paint lines on it but it works. So I get it home and get the car up on ramps. This should be easy. I unbolt all the rounds, pull the pan down. It hangs up a little on the dust shield for the transmission but I get it down and I get the one piece gasket from Velcro with the clips that go up there. This couldn't be better. And I wrestle it up into place, start putting all the bolts in, fill it up with oil and I start the car and gush, gush, gush. It's pouring out by the dust shield because it caught the gasket on the lip of that dust shield when I was folding it back up into place and pushed the gasket out of the way.
It did it three times and I couldn't get the dust shield out. I tried unbolting and I snapped an 18mm socket apart. It was on so tight I couldn't get it. I tried cutting the dust shield with a Dremel tool so that I could just get the lip over and I still couldn't get enough clearance and I was afraid to cut more, so at that point I called up my favorite mechanic and said, "Let's tow the car in." He charged me $110 for the tow and the repair.
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It has been so hard for me to get back into a regular routine after Christmas. I just want to stay in my pajamas all day, watch Christmas movies, and drink hot cocoa.
Instead I am trying to clean up the mess leftover from Christmas and prepare for the next party: New Years.
I love making fudge and little candies for our New Years Eve party and these little snowballs are always a big hit (plus, they are incredibly simple to make).
how to properly dip your truffles in chocolate
-First things first. Your truffles have to be frozen. If they are not frozen, they will be mis-shaped, and they will fall apart in the warm white chocolate.
Then your white chocolate will have truffle smears in it. I have learned from personal experience.
-Get your white chocolate. I used Hershey's white chocolate chips, but you could also use a bark.
I microwaved mine for 30 second intervals, stirring each time, until smooth.
Don't let any moisture get into your melted white chocolate or it will get a weird texture, and won't work for dipping.
-For dipping, one of our tricks is to use a plastic fork and break off the middle tines. Just leaving the two on each end. It kind of looks like a hand doing a rock on sign.
-Drop the frozen ball into the white chocolate and then carefully lift out with the fork invention, tapping the side of the bowl to let the excess chocolate drip off.
-Set them on a cookie sheet covered in wax paper. Sprinkle on the peppermint candy and let set up.
what could i use instead of peanut butter?
-Almond butter
-Cashew butter
-Oreo's – blended
-Crunchy peanut butter
watch how to make this recipe, here:
Did you know we have a Youtube Channel? We created it, specifically with you in mind. It has all our family favorite recipes, that we wanted to share with you.
We know how difficult it can be to make a recipe, without ever trying or seeing it before, which is why we created our channel.
We take you through each recipe, step by step, and show you exactly how to make it.
Each recipe is tried and true, so you can trust even the pickiest eaters, will love it.
Watch how to make our simple and delicious Peanut Butter Snowball Truffles, here:
looking for more truffle recipes? Here are a few of our favorite:
Thin Mint Cookie Truffles
Pumpkin Pie Truffles
M and M Cookie Dough Truffles
Cake Batter Truffles
Oreo Cookie Truffles
Serves: 24
1 hr, 15 Prep Time
1 hr, 15 Total Time
- 1 cup powdered sugar
- 3 Tablespoons butter, softened
- 1/2 cup creamy peanut butter
- 1 pound white chocolate candy coating or almond bark
- sugar sprinkles, optional garnish
- In a medium-sized mixing bowl, combine powdered sugar, peanut butter and butter; mix well.
- Line a large cookie sheet with wax paper and shape dough into 1" balls; place balls on wax paper.
- Chill dough balls in the fridge for about 30 minutes or until firm.
- In another medium-sized bowl, melt candy coating according to directions on package (I usually microwave mine for 30-second intervals, stirring each time, until completely melted and smooth).
- Dip balls and place on wax paper. If you want, garnish tops with sugar sprinkles.
- Place balls back into the fridge to set up.
Be sure to not miss another recipe!
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subset: commoncrawl


text:
Showing 1–10 of 12 results
Akileine Cream for Dry & Flaky Skin 150ml
Revitalizes dry keratinised and dehydrated skin.
CCS Foot Cream 175ml
The CCS Foot Care Cream is extremely effective for the treatment of dry skin and cracked heels.
Dr Foot Gel Plus Insoles (pair)
The Gel Plus is ideal in all types of footwear used in high-impact activities. The Dual Gel Shock Modules provide extraordinary protection for the two major impact zones, the HEEL and FOREFOOT.
Flexitol Heel Balm
Flexitol Heel Balm has been specifically formulated to prevent and treat dry, rough and hard skin.
Foot Support (pair)
A 3/4 length leather covered lightweight acrylic support with a built in heel cushion, arch support and metatarsal support.
Gehwol for Cracked Skin 125ml Tube
Relief for severely dry, cracked or rough skin. Natural essential oils, vitamins, medicinal soap and skin-friendly fats help strengthen and improve the elasticity of the skin.
Imperial Corns and Callus Solution 75ml
Solution for the removal of corns and calluses


text:
details of terrorism
Paper No. 6190 Dated 01-Nov-2016
By Bhaskar Roy
Indian and Chinese National Security Advisors (NSAs) Ajit Doval and State Councillor Yang Jiechi are scheduled to meet in Hyderabad, India in the first week of November to review bilateral relations and regional developments. Hugging and selfie diplomacy is over. It is back to the brass tracks. Core interests are to the fore.
Paper No. 6188 Dated 26-Oct-2016
At the 8th BRICS (Brazil, Russia, India, China and South Africa) summit held (October 15 to 16) in Goa, India revealed that the world was far from reaching a consensus on international terrorism, including cross-border terrorism. But there were take away which could grow in the future within the BRICS and outside it, concerning the world's biggest threat.
Paper No. 6180 Dated 06-Oct-2016
China announced (Oct 01) that it has extended by another three months the "technical hold" on India's listing of Jaish-e-Mohammad (JEM) chief, Masood Azhar as an international terrorist in the 1267 Committee of the United Nations.
Paper No. 6171 Dated 20-Sept-2016
By Dr Subhash Kapila
Pakistan Army Chiefs have compulsively resorted to Kashmir-centric military adventurism against India based on flawed and misconceived assessments on Kashmir Valley being ripe for secession from India and a misreading of firmness of resolve of Indian political leaders in responding to their military adventurism.
Paper No. 6170 Dated 20-Sept-2016
The Pakistan-based terrorist strike on an Indian army camp in Uri, Kashmir in the early hours of September 18, has put enormous pressure on Prime Minister Modi to retaliate. Seventeen Indian soldiers were killed and around thirty injured, some of them critically.
Paper No. 6144 Dated 08-Jul-2016
The siege of the Holey Artisan Café by a group of young Jihadis on July 1 evening was something waiting to happen. Twenty guests dining in this up-market restaurant in Dhaka's diplomatic area were killed by these terrorists. Most of them were foreigners. Two police officers also lost their lives. The terrorists were killed in a mixed forces commando raid later.
Copyright ©2012. All Rights are Reserved.
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Presidential Speech on Democracy Day Short on Police and Prison Matters
President Jonathan's address to the nation in celebration of the democracy day on May 29, 2012 showed a profound touch on several areas like visa procurement, credit rating, foreign exchange, seaports readiness and cassava growth. While all these aspects are
essential in regards to building and enriching our institutions as well as moving towards true democratic governance the inadequate attention to police and prison matters make the movement towards a stable democracy almost impossible.
Despite the continued institutional problems faced by the police and the prisons, and the despair faced by many serving police and prison officers as well as the poor optimism the Nigerian people have about our criminal justice institutions, the poor consideration given to these issues is problematic as it is not a good way to promote better ways to a functional civil society.
The President spoke of the armed forces in terms of their steadfast subordination to civil authority and addressed the judiciary as a problem-driven place that needs improvement but the two main agencies-police and prisons that are responsible for social stability remain almost absent in the speech.
The state of our criminal justice engine is currently clogged by mistrust, low morale, and psychologically the people continue to have low positive regard for our courts, the police and the prisons in particular.
The international world sees our criminal justice system in regards to the police and the prisons as centers of disorganization and ineptitude, and this is partly because those in uniform suffer from many challenges among which are poor remuneration, poor psychological readiness, poor residential environment, and collectively many have become more patriotic to the spirit of self-preservation at all cost, as such many of them see nothing unusual to committing themselves to a world of corruption, to a performance of carelessness and to an unwavering zeal for indifference to matters of public safety.
The President should have uttered words of support for the good works of some men and women in the police and prisons who in spite of all the challenges faced by their institutions have been known for committing their lives to the duty of protecting lives and properties.
Mr. President there is huge challenges facing the criminal justice system, and your administration need to help strengthen and bring the police and the prisons as well as the courts to the steps of professional and democratic standards.
Mr. President it is unhealthy for our young democracy to see our police and prison environments full mostly of unhappy and dejected men and women as the people will be the ultimate bearer of this systemic unhealthiness.
A presidential commitment to several, strong and wavering issues in the police, penal and judicial systems will in fact strengthen every other institution including all the ones you focused on as the absence of full safety and protection of all of them will mean danger to our democracy.
Mr. President it is time that the Nigerian criminal justice system to go through a psychological revolution the type that will reduce a myriad of huge issues.
We need bold mandates, programs and initiatives to drive a sustainable growth in the criminal justice system and there is need for the training of our police and prison officials using the tools of up-to-date psychology which will help bring in new knowledge in form of good attitude and full productivity.
Mr. President, we need to do more than strengthen the management of law enforcement agencies like the Economic and Financial Crimes Commission (EFCC) and the Independent Corrupt Practices Commission (ICPC).
In order to better re-position these agencies for more effective service delivery it could have being very nice if you had used this august opportunity like you did in the case of changing the name of University of Lagos to voice bold modifications in our police and prison systems in particular.
Mr. President, henceforth and as part of the next Democracy Day hopefully you will inform the Nigerian people that the lives of our uniform men and women will be marked with pronounced positive improvements.
In this regard we will no longer hear of officers commercializing their duties, and there will be a reduction of justice for sale, a reduction in arbitrary detention in police cells and prisons, a reduction of highest bidder-oriented freedom, a reduction of police stations as business centers, a reduction of police squads as land speculators, a reduction of complainants turning into instant suspects, and a reduction of dilapidated police training centers.
In the area of prison challenges, future Democracy Day speech would evidence full blown reduction in prison conditions in regards to noticeable problems like congestion caused by persons awaiting trial. We will hear of a clear reduction in detentions without trial, a reduction of inadequate psychological treatment, a reduction of costly or inadequate feeding, a reduction of inadequate accommodation, a reduction of general overcrowding, and a reduction of dilapidated prison buildings.
We will hear from you a line of reductions in regards to poor sanitary, communicable diseases, and poor amenities like electricity, clothing, portable water, and communication system as well as in regards to the issue of prison outbreaks.
Mr. President, the reduction of many of the noted issues will make our criminal justice system, the Nigeria Police and prison institutions in particular more responsive organizations to public needs.
Mr. President it could have been major news in your speech to declare empowerment for our uniform and security detectives by announcing a new and higher salary structure, broadcasting a new and better accommodation allowance and revealing new training centers with established psychological and technological standards.
Mr. President these are the type of stuffs that could lead our officers to optimal performance in their duties and make them less tempted to ill-driven operational acts like criminal actions, indifference, chronic frustration, indiscipline, and selfishness.
Mr. President, the pursue of the rule of law and the formation of good institutions in an upcoming democracy like Nigeria can only occur if the Nigerian police, prison and court systems become full of men and women with the right training, the right resources, the right environment and the right attitude with the safety and security of the people always in their minds.
John Egbeazien Oshodi, Ph.D., is an Abuja-based Forensic/Clinical Psychologist.


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"Jerry Beads" are plastic beaded necklaces that people receive if they expose parts of their bodies while attending a taping of The Jerry Springer Show in Stamford, Connecticut. The beads are typically reserved for women who show their breasts, but men can earn them by flashing their chests or rear ends. The controversial talk show, hosted by former Cincinnati mayor Jerry Springer, features guests who complain and interact about issues pertaining to adultery, incest, and other sexual behavior that is generally considered to be deviant.
Reserve your free tickets to the show. You can submit a request to reserve your tickets online at jerryspringertv.com. You must provide your name, address, phone number, e-mail address, age and your desired show date. Verify that you receive your ticket confirmation via e-mail.
Travel to Stamford for your scheduled show date. Arrive early to pick up your ticket, which is held at the door. Tickets are distributed on a first-come, first-served basis and the show's producers may distribute tickets to more people than than the studio can hold to ensure a full audience. Show your photo ID to prove that you are 18 years or older to get your ticket.
Find a seat in the audience. Before the show begins, the producers may ask if anyone would like to earn Jerry Beads during the taping. Express your desire to receive the beads.
Expose your breasts, chest, or rear end during the taping--usually, Jerry Springer speaks to the guests who want to earn Jerry Beads just before they earn them. You must lift your clothing at the appropriate time and in full view of the show's cameras to earn your beads.
If you want Jerry Beads but don't want to expose yourself to get them, you can try searching for the beads for sale on sites such as ebay.com or craigslist.org.
Remember that any activity in which you partake on film will be recorded and is permanent. You will not be able to control who might see the tape after it airs.
Photo Credits
- Hemera Technologies/PhotoObjects.net/Getty Images


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The Honorary Title have posted a new, unmastered song entitled "Untouched and Intact" at both their purevolume and MySpace pages.
The song is taken from their forthcoming sophomore full-length, to be co-released in Feb. 2007 through Doghouse / Warner Bros.. It'll follow up 2004's Anything Else But the Truth.
The band also has some shows coming up, including Doghouse's CMJ lineup for which they'll headline.


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Casino games for real money
3 Things Players Do to Increase Odds of Winning When Playing Online Slots for Real MoneyPosted on November 11, 2015
The goal of playing online slots for real money is to win and win big. While everyone knows that winning is all based upon luck, it still does not stop people from trying to develop a winning strategy that helps them win the big payout on a slot machine.
Here are some of the things our players have done in an effort to increase their odds of winning while playing games at our instant play casino:
#1 Stopping the Reels in Mid-Spin
Some of our players believe this to be a good strategy, they can take control of the reels of the game. This is done by pushing the spin button in the middle of a turn. When the button is pushed the reels stop. Players believe that this ability to stop the reels gives them control over where the reels stop.
This strategy is commonly used when players are trying to reach a bonus game or get free spins. Slot games require the player to hit three or more of the same symbol in order to trigger the bonus game. Players believe if they time it right, they can stop the reels on the bonus symbols and advance to the fun bonus games, which generally have really nice wins.
#2 Constantly Changing Bets
One of the features of our online slots for real money is the ability to change the amount a player bets per spin. Players can bet anywhere from 0.01 cents to a dollar or more per payline on each spin. The amount of the bet will increase the payout a player receives for winning combinations, but some of our players like to up the excitement and apply the strategy of constantly changing bets.
These players believe that if they constantly change bets during a single playing session it will help them win. These players believe that every time the bet amount is changed, the random number generator will change. Things don't necessarily work this way, but many players still believe it makes for the ultimate winning strategy. Other players find that the higher the denomination they play the better odds they have.
#3 Switching Game Titles
Win A Day Casino has over 50 different games. Some of them are penny slots, others premium slots. A winning strategy that some of our players have created is not playing a certain game for too long.
Some players believe that sticking with a single game too long will run out their luck. This belief has our players jumping around from game to game, especially when they feel a certain game isn't paying out at that moment. For example, a player may start at Pyramid Plunder, play for a few minutes, and then go to Castle Siege. After Castle Siege, they will go to Slot-O-Matic.
Changing slot games is a way for players to find the game that suits their fancy and it is a great way for our players to try out our different games. Players can try the different games and see for themselves just which ones are more fun for them.
Can free casino games pay real money ? | Yahoo Answers
can give you up to 100 dollars free from absolute poker, no deposit required, and you can cash out after playing the required number of hands


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Jay Fraser: Sketches Of A Renegade EP Review
Sketches Of A Renegade is a hugely needed, freshly invigorating set of acoustic blues. From the moment Jay Fraser's latest batch of recordings begins, its gloriously stripped-down songs strike a chord in the listener.
Jay Fraser has released three full-length albums to date, as well as Sketches Of A Renegade, and really shines on his latest effort. His steady hands and his powerful yet subtle voice command attention. It's a simple but powerful mix that proves his ability.
The production on Sketches is near-perfect, and gets out of the way enough to let Fraser shine through. He's got something good going for him, and I expect that if he keeps it up he can capture the hearts and ears of thousands more people worldwide.
This review was short and sweet, but so is Sketches. It's a lovely bit of blues, and you owe it to yourself to pick it up for FREE over at http://music.buildingsofdreams.com/
The Review: 9/10
The Big Hit
– The Dark Wood
Review by Tyler Quiring


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Bill Press began his career as a political insider and media commentator on KABC-TV and KCOP-TV, both in Los Angeles.
The former co-host of MSNBC's Buchanan and Press, CNN's Crossfire and The Spin Room, Press has built a national reputation on thought-provoking and humorous insights from the left side of the political aisle.
Press has received numerous awards for his work, including four Emmys and a Golden Mike Award. In 1992, the Associated Press named him Best Commentator of the Year.
Press is the author of four books: Spin This! (Atria, 2002), Bush Must Go! (Dutton Books, 2004), How The Republicans Stole Christmas (Doubleday, 2005) and his latest, Trainwreck (Wiley, 2008). Press also writes a nationally syndicated newspaper column, distributed weekly by Tribune Media Services.


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Zhang Da
A slightly mysterious designer, Zhang Da came into the international spotlight when he designed the first collection for the Hermès-backed Chinese luxury brand Shang Xia. Zhang Da's own brand Boundless has a cult following. The experimental label has deceptively simple clothing that mixes the aesthetic of Martin Margiela with references to China's revolutionary history, philosophy and culture.


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Yorkshire-based Rahman Ravelli Solicitors have been ranked among the very best in the UK´s most influential legal guide.
The Chambers UK Guide 2014 has classed Rahman Ravelli, which has offices in Halifax and London, as one of the very best practices for handling criminal fraud cases. In the Guide, which was formally released last night (Wed Oct 30), Rahman Ravelli founder Aziz Rahman is given special mention for his abilities.
Chambers calls Mr Rahman "one of the most determined fraud solicitors in the country´´ and refers to him as a "fearsome litigator´´, "extremely methodical´´ and "wonderful with clients´´.
The 2014 Guide refers to the speed, effectiveness and excellence of Rahman Ravelli´s service and adds that "the real strength of the team is the quality of its members´´.
It adds: "The firm has gained a commendably wide following from all over the country and internationally. It is currently working on a number of high-profile bribery and corruption cases. These cases, many involving billions of dollars, span governments as well as companies of all sizes and from many industry sectors.´´
The praise in the Chambers UK Guide 2014 comes just weeks after Rahman Ravelli was classed among the legal elite in The Legal 500, the international guide to law firms.
Aziz Rahman said: "At a time when we are expanding our commercial litigation arm and gaining many of the biggest and best cases, it is great to receive such an acknowledgement of our achievements.
"We have always placed all our efforts into giving our clients the very best and most proactive legal representation. It is very pleasing to see that this is being recognised by the people whose opinions are so valued.´´


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Create an Account - Increase your productivity, customize your experience, and engage in information you care about.
The new Town of Jackson Housing Ombudsman program was created to assist persons in the town of Jackson with housing concerns. They are here to assist and mediate landloard & tenant disputes, assist in resolving conflicts, and document & identify issues and problems with both residential rentals and landlord-tenant relationships. They can help with mediation, and document and investigate your claims.
Filing a Complaint with Their Office
Step 1: Attempt to resolve the problem BEFORE turning to them. Take notes and make copies.
Step 2: Check whether your dispute is in their jurisdiction.
Step 3: After steps #1 and #2, if you still have a concern, give them a call, stop by their office, or file a complaint online here.
They are here to aid Citizens.
They Cannot do the Following:
They cannot follow-up on complaints from third party persons. This means a neighbor, a brother, or a concerned citizen cannot file a complaint on behalf of the person being effected by the problem without a power of attorney.
They cannot take complaints regarding federal violations.
They do not look into untimely complaints, when an unreasonable amount of time has passed since the issue at hand.
Will I need a lawyer?
You do not need an attorney to file a complaint. However, you may hire an attorney to assist and represent you if you wish.
What is Mediation?
Mediation is an informal way to resolve a complaint (in this case to a Housing Ombudsman) pertaining to housing. It is a process in which an impartial third party assists the parties to resolve their dispute.
What does a Mediator Typically do?
Invites the parties to the dispute to discuss the problem; Empowers the parties by facilitating problem solving, brainstorming, and mutual understanding; Facilitates the development of mutually acceptable agreements; Works to reduce hostilities and improve communication; and Encourages cooperation and respect in an informal, creative atmosphere.
What are the advantages of Mediation?
Mediation provides advantages to other forms of alternative dispute resolution methods.
Mediation is voluntary; however, both parties must agree to mediate. Unless both parties agree to use the mediation process as a way to help resolve their disagreement, mediation cannot occur.


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About Essay Labs
Only a couple of days left before the due date? We have a group of profoundly proficient, experienced and skilled paper journalists and they will furnish you with a particularly elegantly composed article to guarantee your prosperity. Our custom exposition benefit employs capable people after altogether dissecting their composition style and... More +


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Translators and Interpreters
Hello all,
It's a beautiful Sunday afternoon and after much consideration, I want to focus the next few blogs on YOU. As you might now, I spent 13 years as a translator and interpreter. Circumstances launched me into another direction and I it was there that I learned how much I love Social Media and how much personal enjoyment I receive from teaching something I love. Now, the issue was how do I combine my 13 years of experience in another field that was completely different to what I want to do now.
I came up with the idea that helping YOU leave your footprint as a professional in the Social Media world was a great place to start. This blog is dedicated to all of you who are struggling to be recognized as professionals and those of you who are still new to the profession.
Everyone uses Social Media. How many of you have a Facebook page? How about a LinkedIn page? Instagram? Twitter? and the list could go on. Right now, there is approximately 60 Social Media sites that you can subscribe to. Not only is that way too many, but how could we possibly keep up with all that. We can't. It's that simple. So before we dive into any of them let's take some basic things into consideration so we know which sites to use and how to use them properly.
The first thing to think about is separation between your personal/private life and your professional life. What does that mean in the Social Media world? It means that you have separate pages or you use separate Social Media sites for each aspect of your life. I think now is a good time to also reiterate that anything you post online, and I do mean anything, there is a thing called cache, which means that even though you might delete it at some point, it is still there, somewhere and may show up on a search. So please think about what you post before you hit that send button. We will talk about privacy settings in a future blog.
Now, what are you trying to accomplish with Social Media and your individual pages? Well, historically Interpreters and Translators have struggled with being recognized as professionals. Meaning that you are not really taken that seriously and that affects the rates you are able to charge, I know this from professional experience. We all know what it takes. Not only do you have to maintain your language skills up to par, but you have to learn all the terminology for whatever branch you are working in. Legal, medical, chemical engineering, computer science, etc, etc, etc. Each one has it's own terminology that we must learn in order to do the job effectively and concisely,
So one of the first steps with Social Media is to determine HOW you are going to present that professional, knowledgeable front.
Let's talk a little about LinkedIn:
Most of you probably already have a LinkedIn page. But if you don't, not to worry, it's never too late to get started. How you set up your page is going to determine how you come across and how you are perceived. So a professional picture is the best place to start. It is the single most important thing on your profile page. I cannot stress that enough! Here is a link with all the nitty gritty details of a good profile picture. Please read it carefully :
I will continue this blog with the next steps for you to follow. I will leave you with this one quote from Tony Rosado:
May 2019


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Compare Cheap Flights to Colombia
Munich - Bogota
Round trip|Economy
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*Prices have been available for round-trip flights within the last 48 hours and may not be currently available. Additional baggage fees and fees for other optional services may apply. Other terms and conditions may apply.
Visit Colombia
Colombia is a nation of rainforests, cities and amazing cups of coffee! There are some beautiful cities to explore, as well as plenty of natural attractions that will take your breath away. Book your flights to Colombia with Air Europa on our official website and fly in comfort for less.
Colombia Destinations
Start your Colombian adventure in Bogotá (BOG). This lively, energetic capital city performs a balancing act between history and modern-day living. The buildings and architecture date back 300 years and the historic city centre, Plaza de Bolívar, is home to many churches, convents and museums. Sitting alongside these historic monuments, however, there are lively bars, cafes, clubs and restaurants so there are plenty of recreational areas to enjoy too!
More Great Sights in Bogotá
- The Gold Museum (Museo del Oro) is a really unique attraction and one of the most visited tourist sites in the entire country. Containing more than 55,000 pieces of gold from pre-Hispanic cultures in Colombia, consider joining one of the free tours running from Tuesday to Saturday. Entry to the museum is even free on Sundays!
- Dominating the city centre of Bogotá, the impressive mountain of Monserrate reaches a peak of 3,152 metres above sea level. Enjoy a hike up to the summit, or alternatively take it easy with a cable car or train journey. At the top you will find a church and shrine, plus several restaurants – not to mention the spectacular views.
- Take your pick of the libraries in Bogotá, including the Biblioteca Virgilio Barco and the Luis Ángel Arango Library. Perfect for architecture enthusiasts, you can take some amazing photos or simply while away the hours with a book.
- Visit the cultural centre and performing arts theatre of Teatro Mayor Julio Mario Santo Domingo. With spectacular concerts and shows performed regularly, you'll be spoilt for choice.
Best Time to Visit Colombia
Colombia is very close to the equator, so the temperature stays very consistent year-round. The rainy season is between May and November. The climate in Colombia depends heavily on altitude – destinations in the mountains will be crisp and cold, particularly at night.
Don't miss out on exploring Colombia in person. Book your Colombia flights with Air Europa and make the journey in comfort. You'll be able to relax onboard our modern, spacious and sophisticated aircrafts, and if there's anything we can do to make your flight even better, our cabin crew will be happy to help!
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*Prices have been available for round-trip flights within the last 48 hours and may not be currently available. Additional baggage fees and fees for other optional services may apply. Other terms and conditions may apply.


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Polidori's Metropolis
Robert Polidori may be the greatest architectural photographer of his time—but don't tell him that. "I don't photograph architecture," he says. "I photograph habitats. Rooms are metaphors of soul life, our prenatal life. When human beings build a house or a room, they're actually recreating a womb." That urge, he says, comes out of Christian metaphors about being unhappily naked in a cold world. "Look at the monkeys, man," he implores. "They live in trees and stuff because they still have all their fur."
Finding Polidori's conversation as colorful as his work, Metropolis decided to publish a book encompassing both: Robert Polidori's Metropolis, the magazine's new imprint, Metropolis Books. Polidori's observations, like his photographs, are sharp, engrossing, and utterly unique.
Robert Polidori's Metropolis is available now. If you'd like to order a copy, please call (800) 338-2665 or visit www.artbook.com.


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Farage: I've been wildly misquoted on Putin
Nigel Farage claimed today that he was "wildly misquoted" on his admiration for Vladimir Putin as he prepared for the second of two head-to-head debates on Europe.
The Ukip leader sought to row back from controversial remarks about the Russian leader, but admitted that there would be a "ding-dong" about them in tonight's clash with the Liberal Democrat leader, Nick Clegg.
In an interview with GQ magazine, published this week but conducted before Russia's invasion of Crimea, Mr Farage cited Mr Putin as the world leader he most admired.
He replied: "As an operator, but not as a human being, I would say Putin. "The way he played the whole Syria thing. Brilliant. Not that I approve of him politically. How many journalists in jail


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Faculty Publications
Michelle M. Camacho, Susan M. Lord
Borderlands of Education: Latinas in Engineering
This innovative work critically studies the contemporary problems of one segment of Science, Technology, Engineering, and Math (STEM) education. The lack of a diverse U.S.-based pool of talent entering the field of engineering education has been termed a crisis by academic and political leaders. Engineering remains one of the most sex segregated academic arenas; the intersection of gendered and racialized exclusion results in very few Latina engineers. Drawing on cutting-edge scholarship in gender and Latino/a Studies, the book provides an analytically incisive view of the experiences of Latina engineers.
Sponsored by the National Science Foundation through a Gender in Science and Engineering grant, the authors bridge interdisciplinary perspectives to illuminate the nuanced and multiple exclusionary forces that shape the culture of engineering. A large, multi-institution, longitudinal dataset permits disaggregation by race and gender. The authors rely on primary and secondary sources and incorporate an integrated mixed-methods approach combining quantitative and qualitative data. Together, this analysis of the voices of Latina engineering majors breaks new ground in the literature on STEM education and provides an exemplar for future research on subpopulations in these fields.
This book is aimed at researchers who study underrepresented groups in engineering and are interested in broadening participation and ameliorating problems of exclusion. It will be attractive to scholars in the fields of multicultural and higher education, sociology and cultural anthropology, as well as cultural studies and feminist technology studies, and all researchers interested in the intersections of STEM, race and gender. This resource will be useful for policy-makers and educational leaders looking to revitalize and re-envision the culture within engineering.
Michelle Madsen Camacho is Professor and Chair of the Sociology Department, University of San Diego. Her Ph.D. is from the University of California, Irvine in the interdisciplinary fields of Sociology and Cultural Anthropology. She is a former Fulbright Fellow and her ethnographic research was funded by numerous external grants. In addition, she formerly held two postdoctoral fellowships at the University of California, San Diego, at the Center for U.S.-Mexican Studies and in the Department of Ethnic Studies. She publishes using both quantitative and qualitative research methodologies and engages theories from interdisciplinary sources including cultural studies, critical race, feminist theories.
Susan M. Lord is Professor and Coordinator of Electrical Engineering, University of San Diego. She received a B.S. in Electrical Engineering and Materials Science and Engineering from Cornell University and the M.S. and Ph.D. in Electrical Engineering from Stanford University. From 1993-1997, Dr. Lord taught at Bucknell University. Author of over eighty publications, her teaching and research interests include engineering student persistence, optoelectronics, service-learning, feminist pedagogy, and lifelong learning.
Contact Information


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MARIETTA, Ga. --- The State of Qatar has signed a $393.6 million contract with Lockheed Martin for the purchase of four C-130J Super Hercules airlifters plus training and spares with deliveries to begin in 2011. Qatar's new C-130Js will be the longer fuselage or "stretched" variant of the C-130J.
Since this is Qatar's first experience with C-130s, the package being provided by Lockheed Martin is a complete solution. The package includes four aircraft, training of aircrew and maintenance technicians, spares, ground support and test equipment, servicing carts, forklifts, loading vehicles, cargo pallets, and a team of technical specialists who will be based in Qatar during an initial support period.
"This acquisition of a fleet of C-130Js will provide our country with a highly flexible airlift capability," said Brigadier General Ahmad Ibrahim Al -- Malki, Chairman of the Qatar Emiri Air Force Airlift Evaluation Committee. "No other aircraft can do what a C-130J can do and we are proud to join the many, many countries around the world that operate the world's most successful airlifter."
"We also are extremely proud to be selected to provide the world's most advanced tactical mobility aircraft to meet Qatar's operational airlift needs," said Jim Jamerson, president, Middle East/Africa Region, Lockheed Martin Corporation. "The C-130J Super Hercules will equip the Qatari Emiri Air Force with proven, modern, and effective tactical and strategic airlift to support a wide range of Qatar's national requirements."
Qatar joins the rapidly growing number of nations with C-130J fleets including Australia, Canada, Demark, India, Italy, Norway, the United Kingdom and the United States.
The C-130J has become the standard by which all other airlift is measured in terms of availability, flexibility and reliability. C-130Js are currently deployed in two combat theaters and are operating at a very high tempo efficiently and reliably. In non-combat, but equally harsh environments, the C-130Js were first to support relief efforts after hurricane Katrina, Thailand's tsunami, Myanmar's typhoon and several earthquakes. The worldwide fleet of C-130Js has now flown nearly half a million flight hours, with some C-130J operator countries flying as much as 1000 hours per month.
Headquartered in Bethesda, Md., Lockheed Martin employs about 140,000 people worldwide and is principally engaged in the research, design, development, manufacture, integration and sustainment of advanced technology systems, products and services. The Corporation reported 2007 sales of $41.9 billion.


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A cat has recovered from a 120-foot drop from the 12th floor of a building.
The feline was allegedly thrown off a block of flats in the West Midlands, England and found at the bottom by people on the third floor who heard something hit a window, the Daily Mail reports.
The 7-month-old tabby cat was motionless in a state of shock and taken to the Birmingham Animal Hospital, but only suffered a broken tooth and a slight injury to her hip.
The incident happened on June 5, and the RSPCA are looking for the cat's owners.
An animal welfare officer for the RSPCA recalled: "When I collected the cat, she was in a lot of pain and was petrified.
"I feared she might not survive, because of the distance she fell added to the fact she couldn't stand afterwards. But I am so glad she has proved me wrong and is getting stronger every day. Staff at the hospital hope that, given time, she will make a full recovery."
The RSPCA officer also stated: "It is clearly possible that it wasn't accidental."
A veterinary nurse at the hospital added: "We expected to see a few more broken bones to be honest... She is possibly the luckiest cat alive."
More cat-related headlines:
> Cat survives crossbow bolt to the head
> Kitten saved from tree after 30 hours
> Picture: Cat 'adopts' newborn chicks


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George Inn, Rushey Green, Catford, Lewisham, c. 1870
The George Inn dates from c.1800 and was a stopping point for Bromley coaches, like the one seen here.
Before the arrival of trams, which came to Rushey Green in 1890, coaches formed the principal form of transport for those who could afford not to walk. The trams were electrified in 1906, but not extended south of Catford until 1914.
The George closed in 2008 and is likely to be demolished.


text: We have been in business since 1914 and have always used Blackinton for our badge needs. First and most importantly the sales staff.. timely and professional. Secondly is customer service, they have always been the friendliest of any vendor I have worked with. And finally the quality of the products has always been impeccable, I have never had to return an item sold to one of my customers..."


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