What makes a great burger? Taste and juiciness certainly play a big role, and in many renditions, downright sloppiness. Oozy elements combined with crisp ingredients, cheesy and creamy balanced with noisy and crunchy.
Every year, thousands of home cooks across the U.S. compete in Sutter Home Winery’s Build a Better Burger Recipe and Cook-Off, with $100,000 going to the winner (see information below the story why the contest isn’t open to California residents). James McNair, the author of more than 40 cookbooks, is the contest’s head judge. He and the winery’s culinary director, Jeffrey Starr, highlight many of the contest’s award-winning burger recipes in “Burger Parties” (Ten Speed Press, $19.99). The book showcases some of the best contest burgers, teamed with party menus that include appetizers, side dishes and desserts.
My favorite is the Greek-themed party that focuses on Opa! Burgers. These behemoth beauties were the brainchild of contestant Elizabeth Bennett of Mill Creek, Wash., and won top prize in the best alternative burger category.
The burger includes flavor-spiked condiments, including a mayonnaise boosted with roasted red bell peppers, and a cheese concoction made with crumbled feta and chopped kalamata olives. The no-snooze patties include dried porcini mushrooms reconstituted in red wine, minced garlic, dried red chili flakes and oregano.
Ground lamb is the meat of choice, but ground turkey or beef could easily be substituted because Bennett adds even more palate interest by layering thinly sliced sopressata (dry-cured Italian sausage), baby spinach leaves and tomato slices. Opa, indeed.
The menu’s starter is fava, a traditional, hummus-like puréed dip that was originally made with the broad beans from which it takes its name. Classically, the dip is made from the hard-to-find (and expensive) variety of fava beans from the Greek island of Santorini; they are particularly delicious. But the tasty purée is also scrumptious (and easier to prepare) made with yellow lentils or split peas. This dish can be prepared a couple of days in advance and refrigerated. And the cooled pita chips that accompany the dish can be made a day ahead and stored airtight at room temperature.
Grilled eggplant makes a delectable side dish with the burgers. Marinated and grilled until well-browned and tender, the eggplant slices are accompanied with minted, Greek-style yogurt and a smoke-scented grilled tomato-based sauce.
Sutter Home Winery’s Build a Better Burger Recipe and Cook-Off isn’t open to California residents, so if you have an out-of-state friend or relative who has a recipe for irresistible burgers, have them check out the rules at www.buildabetterburger.com.
I asked contest judge James McNair to tell me about the wackiest burger that has been submitted.