2012 est un millésime à très faible rendement dû à la coulure et au millerandage qui ont particulièrement touché les vieilles vignes.
Les vins rouges sont exceptionnels et bâtis pour la garde. Il va falloir savoir attendre tout particulièrement le Bourgogne Rouge et le Vosne Romanée « Les Barreaux » qui se montrent un peu austères pour le moment.
Pour les vins blancs, c’est un très grand millésime également avec de la fraîcheur et de l’ampleur sur des notes de fruits blancs et des touches exotiques.
Produced only in tiny quantities Anne’s wines are made with the most personal attention to detail possible. Only using natural yeasts and miniml filtration, these are wines that exhibit a real expression of place. The expansion of her white wine vineyard plantings over the last few years and the subsequent enlargement of the cellarhas not deflected Anne from her desire to make Burgundy of only the highest calibre. Anne’s 2012 Hautes Côtes de Nuits cuvée Marine, originating from one hectare plot up in the hills behind Vosne Romanée, has such an exquisite fresh citrus aroma and a wonderful texture. Anne, understandably, is very happy with the qualityof her 2012’s. « They make me smile »she told us.
Bourgogne Pinot Noir: blended from 4 separate parcels, all located near the route national below the village of Vosne Romnée. Matured in 30% new oak. A Bourgogne rouge of impressive density for the genre. Pure, ripe, and redolent of spiced plum. Stylish lines with proper structure and tension. Very good.
Hautes Côtes de Nuits: Anne’s 0,73 hectare single block parcel is situated in the commune of Concoeur, just above the village of Vosne romanée. 30% new oak. Very pretty and charming with immediate appeal. Fresh, sappy with plum skin and dark cherry. Clean lines, precise and of good balance.
Chambolle Musigny: 0,6 hectare parcel composed of 28 year old ines. The soil is very stony, 40% new oak. Anne’s vines lie just above the bounadary with Echezeaux and regularly outperform their relatively modest « lieu-dit » classification. 2012 is no exception.Refined, linear and « aerienne » with aromatic floral and scented tea notes. Precise, alivewith energizing minerality. Gentle, seamless and full of charm.
Vosne Romanée: situated above Richebourg and Cros Parentoux, this high slope parcel of 0,39 hectare on rocky, part chalky soil delivers, typically, wines of marked freshness. Tight, concentrated with a mass of blackfruit, especially spiced dark cherry with just a hint of blackberry. Pure and Fragrant. Very energetic too.
Echezeaux: now the 6th vintage for Anne, having reclaime the lease from her cousins in 2007. Hails from à 0,76 hectares plot of 25+ year old vines in the lieu-dit « les Loachausses ». Yet another success in 2012. Wonderfully statuesque with poise, richness and energy all embracing one an other. Heady aromas hint of morello, damson with just a hint of pepper to add piquancy.Textured palate and mineral beading makes for a wonderfully stylish expression of this particular site.
Clos Vougeot: Anne’s parcel is a 0,93 hectare plot within the Grand Maupertui « lieu-dit » situated towards the top of the Clos just below Grands Echezeaux. the wines average 60 years of age. Deep, luxurious and crammed with dark plum and wild hedgerow fruits.Layered and hugely complex. Broad of Shoulder and structure yet remains refined and sophisticated. The marriage of power and elegance is remarkable. Very impressive.
Richebourg: anne has produced 5 barrels in 2012. 60 % new oak. Despite the wine’s innate gravitas and power, the overriding sensation is one of ethereal finesse and supreme elegance. The sheer complexity of flavours, the subtle nuances as well as the riveting minerality all combine in this majestic Grand Cru. the tannins are deftlyluxurious and damas-like, whilst the aromatics hint at peony flowers, mixed spice and black raspberry. Multi-faceted and profound yet a wine of undoubted finery. Be patient though.
Hautes Côtes de Nuits Cuvée Marine 2012: this is fresh and lemony. Juicy stirct, fresh and straight on the palate. Nice crisp edges; pure on hte finish. In Concoeur,just under the village. Spot on.
Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2012: younger vines 20 years in Concoeur, 450-46° altitude. Ripe, blueberry and a touch of blackcurrant, quite spicy. Very fresh, zesty, pure and vobrant. Sappy, crunchy tannins and lively on the finish. Most attractive. From 2014.
Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2012: 20 barrels from 4 places , in Vosne and Nuits. 40-45 year old vines. Sweet fruit, juicy red fruit; the tannins are smooth and nicely support the palate. Fresh and breezy. More rounded than the Hautes Côtes in the red fruit spectrum with softer tannins. A very elegant Bourgogne.
Chambolle Musigny la Combe d’Orveau 2012: ripe rasberry fruit, higher toned. Very pure with satin texture, some viscosity here underscored with fresh acidity; supple and plump fruit, but with some zesty, sappy, crunchy bite. It has a warmly ripe and a cold face. ripe aromatics on the palate and cool grip. 15,85. From 2016.
Vones Romanée les Barreaux 2012: just three barrels, usually 5 to 6 les Barreaux, old vines 75 year old in this high village appellation above the Richebourg. 22hl/ha. North exposition, and thin soil onto the rocks. Just 0,39 hectares. Ripe red fruit aroma. Sweet fruit on the attack, generous richness of flavour and floral aromatics on the palate and smooth tannins, but with colder face here too, fresh, crisp edges and good tension under the red fruit and energy on the finish. 16,2. From 2016/17.
Echezeaux les Loachausses 2012: Anne has made this from 2007. this is quite a humid place. It’s named after a plant that grows in a humid place apparent and they plant grass between the rows…other wise it would take a long time to dry out and to plough when it rains. The grass is like ray grass, but smalle. Dark and rich aroma, deliciously ripe with good intensity. Full smooth tannins, plump fruit withdark chocolate and anise notes and a rippling palate with good acidity and some grip…18,25.
Clos Vougeot le Grand Maupertui 2012: oldest vineyard 80 years…17hl/ha in 2012because of the coulureand millerandage. This is rich, dense and substantial. A muscular and full-bodiedwine. Lots of matter here, but with good acidity, which comes through on the long and powerful finish. It is a more elegant Clos de Vougeot. 18,75.
Richebourg 2012: the parcell is the Verroilles part. An aromatic, floral aroma with rose petal flowers and high spice. Imeediately so refined and pure on the palate. Cool core wrapped in satin fruit, silky and so fluid. It is streamed with light and had a such energy, a wonderfully long and intensely perfumed finish. A wine of striking purity. 19,5 From 2018.
After modest success with her 2011s, it was great to come back to this domaine to find eternally youthful pixie-like Anne Gros back on form with a gaggle of goregeous 2012s.Anne is one of the most conscientious winemakers I know, somebody who lives for her family, whter that is her three children or her vines. She exacts a meticulous picking, which in 2012 commenced on 21 septembber and lasted over three weeksuntil the 15october up in her « Hautes Côtes » vines. I have written several times about this domiane, which I visited on my first Burgundy trip back in 1997. They have a slightly modern sheen like her cousin Bernard Gros, but here they are slightly more nuanced and terroir-driven.Quantities are small and sought after, and in 2012 her pièce de résistance might not be the Richebourg, rather one of the best Clos de Vougeot wines of the vintage. But do not ignore either her excellent Hautes Côtes de Nuits white or red (or indeed her superb joint venture with partner Jean-Paul Tollot down in sunny Minervois).
Hautes Côtes de Nuits Cuvée Marine 2012: was taken from the single vat from Anne’s single hectare of vines in Concoeur. It has a fresh sea spray influenced bouquet that is vibrant and lively straight from the off. The palate is nicely balanced with grapefruit and melon notes segueing into quite a phenolic finish with plenty of extract and flavor. This will be delicious once bottled.
Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2012: was taken from stainless steel vat. It has a crisp rasberry bouquey full of vigor, hints of Chinese tea just in the background. The palate is sweet on the entry with fine tannins and a composed, quite elegant brambly finish. this is decent enough, though to be honest, I might opt for the white this year.
Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2012: has plenty of raspberry preserve and redcurrant on the well-defined nose. The palate is medium-bodied, quitetense and citric on the entry with plenty of tart red cherry fruit on the minerally finish. Not bad att all.
Chambolle Musigny la Combe d’Orveau 2012: was taken directly from barrel on the lees. It has a perfumed bouquet with dried petals infusing the lifted fresh strawberry and redcherry scents that build in volume in the glass. the palate is underpinned by a sorbet-like freshness, very fine tannins and concludes with a satisfying, feminine and refined finish. What a lovely wine this will be !
Vosne Romanée les Barreaux 2012: from vines planted way back in 1903, the Vosne has a very elegant and pure bouquet, the fruit profile a tad darker and more introspective than the Chambolle, but very delineated. The palate is crisp and vibrant on the entry with blood orange infusing the dark cherry and blackcurrant fruit, with fine precision on the almost undersated but classy finish.
Echezeaux les Loachausses 2012: was taken from stainless steel vat. It has a deep, inward looking nose that loses its bashfullness in the glass, offering tempting scents of mulberry, raspberry and damp soil. the palate is medium bodied with a succulent, rounded entry. This feel fleshy in the mouth with black moving to red fruits towards the finish.
Richebourg 2012: taken directly from a new François Frères barrel, is tightly wound on the nose with black cherries bay leaf and subtle forest scents. This is introspective, more inward looking than say Etienne Grivot’s at this prenatal stage. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded, succulent tannins enveloping layers of vibrant, shimmering black and red fruit loaded with minerals. The fruit is in synch with the wood and it ahs a very long sweet tail on the finish. This is a true aristocratic, but not necessarily the start of Anne Grso’s show.
Clos Vougeot le Grand Maupertui 2012: is a real showstopper. It has a fragrant floral bouquet with drk berry and dark plum fruit joined by dried violet petals with aeration. the palate is medium-bodied with quite a firm structure underneath that layer of dark berry fruit. Lovely focus here, real breeding and dare I say might even trump the Richebourg! Superb.
Clos vougeot le Grand Maupertui 2012: sa jolie robe grenat pourpre flatte l’oeil et stimule le nez. Ce dernier n’est pas deçu, la chair de cerise noire éclate presque violemment, l’explosion révèle dans le même instant des fragrances de cacao et d’écorce d’orange, puis fusent encore le cassis et la framboise, le tout bien poivré. La bouche croque le fruit et l’étoffe tanique ressemble à un boutis maculé de jus suave, cousu de baies affriolantes, ourlé d’épices douces. Un vrai régal fruité dont la fraîcheur allong e le plaisir sans fin.
De Soie et de velours, une propriété bourguignonne réunissant quelques-uns des plus belles parcelles de la Côte d’Or. Et ou la vigneronne a, sans se soucier de la tradition, choisi la finesse plus que l’opulence, la fraîcheur plutôt que la surmaturité du fruit. Anne Gros a une tendresse particulière pour le Clos Vougeot, ou elle se sent protégée par les murs. Elle est gâtée par son emplacement extraordinaire au sein de ce vignoble énorme et hétérogène. Les vignes de sa parcelle, situées en haut dans la partie sud du climat, ont un âge moyen de 60 ans, mais quelques unes sont centenaires. Anne a une affection particulière pour cet endroit, en raison de l’esthétisme de l’environnement. En travaillant ici, « j’aime me sentir protégée au sein d’un clos de murs, et avoir deant moi une mer de vignes et les tuiles du toît du château » déclare-t-elle. Si elle est fière de son Clos Vougeot, marqué par « une élégance cistercienne », elle affirme que son Richebourg se doit d’être « systématiquement » plus élégant, étant « un kilomètre devant » en termes de finesse. En parlant de l’étoffe de ses vins, elle met le doigt sur cette distinction: si le Clos donne un vin de velours, le Richebourg est de soie. Le fait d’être situé dans la partie Les Verroilles moins argileuse, plus acaillouteuse, laisse son empreinte de finesse à son Richebourg. A ses débuts, elle a pourtant essuyé des critiques de la part de ceux qui attendaient un Richebourg plus conforme à sa réputation d’opulence. Elle se souvient d’une dégustation de Richebourgs à l’aveugle il y a 15 ans: elle n’a pas reconnu les siens mais les a bien notés ! Elle a eu ce jour-la une révélation qui l’a poussé à produire « un vin raffiné, plus sur la minéralité ». Bien lui a pris.
Richebourg 2012: comme le préconise Anne Gros, dont les vins sont réalisés pour la garde, les très jeunes grands crus sont comme des bébés qu’il faut laisser gambader dans le verre. Elle aime ce millésime parce qu’elle trouve ses vins francs et nets, tendus sans être acides, mûrs sans être confits. Des trois grands crus en 2012, le Richebourg est le moins expressif avec un nez un peu fermé à ce stade, mais la bouche se rattrape avec un beau volume de fruit presque noir et pourtant subtil sur une trame d’acidité vibrante. Longueur impressionnante.