A dahlia in Ms O.'s garden looked battered and weak.
Following the recommendation in Christiane Maute's book, it was treated with Arnica 30 C.
Ms O. watered it once with 5 pellets dissolved in 1 litre of water. The same evening she noticed that the plant had begun to straighten and had started to bloom. This continued right through the summer.
A wilting orchid, which had been thrown onto the compost heap because it no longer produced any flowers, was repotted by Ms J. and given homeopathic treatment. At short intervals she gave it doses of Arnica 200 C, Aconitum 200 C, and then Carbo vegetabilis 30 C (3 pellets in 50 ml water). Ms J. always gives the first two remedies when repotting or changing the position of a plant: effects of injury (Arnica), shock (Aconitum) from repotting. Carbo vegetabilis 30 C was given last to generally strengthen the plant. This took place in mid-June. By the end of August the orchid had noticeably recovered and had started producing the first flowers.
After taking out my cacti from the dark storage cellar in spring (at the beginning of May, when there is no further danger of frost) to put them outdoors again, the first thing I do is to water them with Natrium chloratum 30C, as recommended by Christiane Maute, to acclimatise them to the outdoor environment and if necessary to desalinate the soil.
After around one week, there follows an administration of Calendula 30C to treat possible injury from the effects of winter hibernation and the move outdoors.
After one more week, I treat them again with Silicea 200C and thereafter at irregular intervals with approximately 3 doses of Silicea 200C for general strengthening.
After the cacti have acclimatised to the outdoor climate, they are also treated approx. 3 times at weekly intervals with Arsenicum album 30C.
As you can see from the attached pictures, the cacti have a superb bloom (fig. 1). The cactus "Queen of the Night" has flowered this year for the very first time after 20 years of care and attention (it was first given Arsenicum alb. 30C) (fig. 2 + 3). This evidently came from the Arsenicum album.
Another cactus, which got sunburnt in August due to the tremendous heat, flowered in late summer for the second time in one year after treatment with Arsenicum album 30C.
The cuttings, which I take partly to rejuvenate my “planatation”, are all watered twice at weekly intervals with Arnica 30C and then again with Calendula 30C. With this procedure I have no problems with them taking root. The cuts where I separated the individual segments of the prickly pears also do not rot – instead, they heal completely with just a small scar.
* The observations of these cacti do not constitute proof of homeopathic efficacy but the gardener's experience to date indicates such an effect.
The plant has lost all the scorched leaves, has vigorously put out new shoots, has roughly doubled in size, and has also produced a few new flowers.
Calc. carb. 6D: A rhododendron planted last autumn suffered greatly in the summer heatwave. It always looked as if it was short of water. I thought it hadn't properly put down roots in its new location. I then watered it with a single dose of Calc. carb. 6D (5 ml / 10 liters water), from which time it has seemed pretty robust. Let's see what happens in winter and how it blooms in spring. I've been experimenting in my garden for several years with homeopathic remedies and have not needed any more synthetic fertilizers. There's undoubtedly a lot to learn here but I'm absolutely sure that homeopathic remedies will also turn to be a blessing in this area.
A small potted rose suffered severe sunburn during the hot days at the end of July. The leaves turned brown and then dry, and the entire plant became crooked. Since there was no sign of new leaves after 3-4 weeks, Ms J. wanted to throw the plant away. But instead she decided to give it a try with Cantharis 30 C, which she herself had successfully tried when she had severe sunburn.
So the rose was sprayed 4 times every 2 days with 3 pellets of Cantharis in 100 ml water, and the dried parts were cut off. After approximately 1 week, new growth was visible at the bottom of the plant.
The rose was then given 5 ml of soil conditioner in 1 litre of water, and it continued to recover.
Carbo vegetabilis 30C: Bambus, outdoors, south-facing garden, biodynamic approach. Bambus had brown leaves after flowering – it had collapsed (late summer 2008); was watered for 3 weeks almost daily with a solution of Carbo veg. in water; sprouted normally again in 2009.
Flowering cherry, outdoors, suddenly stopped growing – no leaves, early loss of leaves in spring 2010 and early summer 2010, heat wave, but sufficient watering. Recovered after the same treatment in July.
I've now been experimenting with a potted rose that threatened to die (summer). No obvious reason, but the leaves became yellow and dropped off, and the buds dried up. Twice I put down a pellet of Carbo vegetabilis and Arsenicum, both 30C, on the ground and watered over it. The leaves stopped falling and then new leaves appeared, and now there are even new buds! The effect of the homeopathic remedies strikes me as a miracle!
Zucchini: the plant without "Earth harmony" drops had a slightly sunnier position, grew well and produced many zucchinis. The plant treated with "Earth Harmony" drops was in a shadier position. It had fewer flowers initially, but more leaves, which were also darker, bigger, and stronger. After a few weeks, it was almost twice as big as the plant without the drops. It had several zucchinis but not as many as the other one. Towards the end of the growing season, it had a growth spurt and produced significantly more flowers and zucchinis than the plant without the drops.
I observed a similar effect with the tomatoes: the plants initially looked "healthier" (greener, stonger) with fewer flowers, and they then put on a growth spurt at the end of the season, so that I can now still harvest tomatoes from the treated plants, whereas I have had to consign the others to the compost heap.
With the pot flowers, the "Earth harmony" drops had such a clear positive effect that after 2 weeks I started adding the drops to both pots.
In my opinion, the homeopathic gardenening drops were a success.
Hyssopus 6D for a grapevine that is about 20 years old, unknown type, but sold to me at that time as not requiring chemical sprays. Grapes ocher-yellowish-green, approx 1 cm (0.5 inches) grapes when ripe.
Watered with Hyssop once in approx June/July.
Result: no sick leaves, in contrast to recent years – although in the middle of an area that is farmed with conventional methods involving high use of chemical spraying (Neckar river, Stuttgart area, Germany).
Fewer leaves in total i.e. I didn't have to take off some leaves to allow light to reach the grapes.
Grapes ripe much earlier than in previous years and even sweet! Far fewer bad ones due to wasps etc. - All this despite cloudy, rainy and not especially warm weather.
A rose was standing off to one side, neglected and often forgotten when watering. It looked weak and withered. At the beginning of July it was watered with Ignatia 30 C, repeated 4 weeks later. The rose is now looking great, with 7-8 flowers, and it seems really healthy with strong new growth.
Ms S. has a Clematis viticella in her garden, which was not doing at all well in the spring of 2012. The plant looked weak with washed-out colours. Ms S. had no idea why this normally so robust plant was in such a bad state. In Christiane Maute's book she discovered the remedy Lycopodium 30 C, which is indicated for puny plants with premature yellowing of the leaves. She watered the whole plant with 4 globules dissolved in 1 litre of water, repeated a week later. After the first application the plant immediately began to grow again. Its glorious colours have gradually returned and it has now regained its previous splendour.
A vigorous 20-cm-high specimen of plume poppy was planted in spring in an optimal location with compost-enriched earth.
Despite good conditions the plant remained puny and weak, though without any obvious signs of disease. In June Ms H decided to follow Christiane Maute's advice to treat plants in such a condition with Lycopodium 30 C and Calcium carbonicum 30 C. These remedies are recommended in the book for poor growth and failure to thrive. The two preparations were applied with the watering can, alternately every one to two weeks. This noticeably encouraged growth so that the plant grew to a height of 1.20 m by spring. This year it has grown higher than my head and looks strong and imposing.
After one more week, I treat them again with Silicea 30C and thereafter at irregular intervals with approximately 3 doses of Silicea 200C for general strengthening.
The cuttings, which I take partly to rejuvenate my “planatation”, are all watered twice at weekly intervals with and then again with Calendula 30C. With this procedure I have no problems with them taking root. The cuts where I separated the individual segments of the prickly pears also do not rot – instead, they heal completely with just a small scar.
“Moneymaker” tomatoes were planted late on a house wall, somewhat protected from rain by overhanging eaves.
At the beginning of August, the first signs of brown rot could be seen on the leaves and stems.
The plants were then watered every 3 days initially, later 1x per week, with Natrium sulphuricum 30 C (10 pellets in 10 liters of water).
The affected leaves were removed and the plants produced healthy new growth. Stems that already showed signs of brown spots recovered and the fruit remained healthy.
Natrium sulphuricum 30 C: 20 varieties of rose from the patient's garden at the Garmisch Partenkirchen clinic were suffering from black spot in June.
Some were in such a bad condition that we considered removing them completely.
Due to the constant wetness, we followed Christiane Maute's advice (in Homeopathy for Plants) to water them 3 times at intervals of 3 weeks with Natrium sulphuricum 30 C (10 pellets in 10 L water). The roses, with the exception of one variety, recovered very nicely. The new leaves were healthy.
Ocimum 6D: Every 2 - 3 weeks – according to the condition of the plants – I sprayed the plants with 10 ml in 1 liter water: lettuce and strawberries with Helix tosta, Kohlrabi with Camphora against ants and now also tomato seedlings with Ocimum basilicum D6. The tomatoes are looking good, just the occasional brown leaf. But this is normal for this time of year because in recent years my tomatoes have only had problems with blight later on.
Ms E. has several different fruit trees in her garden. Since the bees did not arrive in sufficient numbers to pollinate the flowers in recent years, the amateur gardener wondered how she could best attract the bees so as to increase the harvest. Following Christiane Maute's recommendation, she treated the trees in spring with Pulsatilla 30 C. She dissolved 8 pellets of the remedy in 30 litres of water and poured this on the trunks of her fruit trees. And indeed she saw a big difference at flowering time compared to previous years. There were far more bees and more fruit set, as shown by the harvest, which was considerably better than in the preceding years. This year Ms E. will repeat this treatment and we shall see whether the effect can be reproduced.
it is obviously not proof of the effect of the remedy.
Various vegetable plants that had remained stunted and did not seem to want to grow properly were watered twice from the watering can with Silicea 200 C with an interval of 10 days between each application.
There was then a noticeable growth spurt and the plants are now looking strong and healthy.