Spring/Summer 2017 will be remembered as the most politically charged menswear season in years - in many ways something hardly surprising considering the S/S '17 shows straddled the EU referendum and subsequent decision by Britain to 'Brexit' the European Union. And while themes of travel, voyaging and cross-culture mingling appeared in shows across the board from Milan to Paris, nowhere was this more strongly felt than at London Collections Men - the capital city of a country where migration became the battleground between Leave and Remain campaigners.
The most notable of these campaigners on the catwalk were Cozette McCreery and Sid Bryan of Sibling and Patrick Grant (who all wore ‘IN’ T-shirts during their finales), Christopher Raeburn (who showed outerwear featuring velcroed on ‘IN’ badges) and Lou Dalton (a vocal supporter post-show).
Immediately after the results for the referendum were announced, many of these designers broadcast their shock on Twitter, on social media, on blogs. However, perhaps the most vocal so far was the also man to make the biggest statement at LCM itself: Daniel W Fletcher. On 13 June (10 days before the UK went to the polls) the 25-year-old designer staged a masterful presentation-slash-protest against leaving the EU outside the shows at 180 The Strand. Not only that, but the collection he showed was packed with outerwear bearing the slogan ‘Stay’.
A member of Central Saint Martins’ class of 2015, Fletcher has already made a name for himself within the industry both at home and abroad though his own line and as an assistant to Kim Jones on the menswear at Louis Vuitton. With a blossoming career that has feet on both sides of the Channel, it’s easy to see why Fletcher was so passionate about staying within the EU.
However, the clarity of his message was more than just something deeply personal when it comes to his career, it spoke for his generation - it has already been documented that around 70 per cent of ‘millennial’ Brits voted to stay in the union.
GQ: What has your reaction been to the Leave vote?
Daniel W Fletcher: I’m still in shock actually. I didn't think this would happen - so many people I know were so pro-Remain. The reaction since has been terrible, and all I can think of is all the opportunities that are going to be lost to people my age. I have hugely benefitted from the EU by being able to travel to Paris easily to be an intern - and working back and forth between the two. A new generation is not going to have that. I’m still grieving that loss.
How do you think this will affect your business?
It’s definitely going to make it more difficult in how I buy materials, from a financial point of view. With the pound weak and considering everything I do in Europe with manufacturing, that’s going to be a lot more expensive for every British brand. [However] as a young brand [just starting out], that makes it even more difficult to make things work. I’m already working with a sales agent in Paris this season to make sure my label can work through this and be successful with such uncertainty.
Playing devil’s advocate, do you think there’s any chance this could this kickstart a regenerated homegrown manufacturing industry?
Aside from business, what would you say the next step for our country is?
As a nation we need to work together and bring the country together again. Over 50 per cent of the country voted out and, although it’s shocking to me, we need to listen to these people and really hear the reasons why they voted out.