“Even if you are not a spice person, even if you don’t know much about chillies—everyone knows the ghost chilli,” says Magali Russie proudly, owner of Borough’s spice emporium Spice Mountain. And if you don’t know it, you’re in for a treat—and possibly a shock.
Cultivated in Nagaland, north-east India, its official name is the naga jolokia chilli. There are many explanations as to how its nickname came about. Some say it’s a mis-translation; others the fact its fearsome flavour ‘sneaks’ up on you. Or perhaps it’s simply because its heat strength is pretty damn scary.
At one time the ghost chilli was deemed the hottest in the world at more than 1,000,000 SHU (Scoville heat units, which indicate the amount by which it would need to be diluted to render it imperceptible). That’s a good 400 times hotter than tabasco. It’s hot.
At Spice Mountain, you’ll find it in several forms: whole, flaked, powdered and smoked. “The powdered is hottest because it’s concentrated, so it’s very intense,” she continues. “But over time it loses flavour. I much prefer whole chilli. It adds richness and thickens a sauce—just drop it in and it will rehydrate.” Used sparingly, it will not only lend a dish heat, but also give it “a nice fruity flavour”.
Magali suggests adding a “little pinch” of ghost chilli powder to mayonnaise, or using it to make a curry, such as this “devilish” naga chicken curry from chef Luke MacKay. Just be sure to have some crème fraiche to hand.