Marc Colin has now handed over this leading St-Aubin domaine to three of his children, Damien, Joseph and Caroline. The eldest, Pierre-Yves, was involved until 2005 harvest, when he took out his share of the vineyards to be worked separately. The remainder is still a sizeable operation, with 20 hectares spread between 30 appellations, 25 of them for white wines.
The Colin reds come from St-Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay, including a fine vieilles vignes bottling which comes from a plot in Les Champs Claude planted in 1901. This and the Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes are worthy of note, though the Domaine is much better known for its white wines. These include no less than eight bottlings of premier cru St-Aubin plus Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet and their associated grands crus.
Domaine Marc Colin is one of the most respected white wine producers in Burgundy. He is based in the small village of St Aubin and works some of its finest vineyards, including Le Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet. Aligoté is a much-maligned grape variety which – in the right hands and the right location – can produce excellent wines.
Pale in colour, this has a steely and mineral nose, offering some green apple aromas and a touch of cream. Ageing in old oak barrels gives a subtle hint of spice and some breadth to the palate, accompanying the precise acidity and chalky finish. Surprisingly complex for a “humble” Aligoté. Drink now to 2020.