I bought a small 10" table saw from skilsaw, and I really like it, but the table itself was too small for what I wanted to use it for, so I decided to make a larger table out of 3/4 inch plywood. The holes in the table really made it easy to bolt the plywood down (using sunk holes of course). The problem was that this made the fence useless, so I needed to make my own. I played with a lot of ideas and looked for more online, and as always a simple solution arose as the best.
First thing you have to do is make sure the edges on the new table are perpendicular to the blade. I did this by putting a level against the blade (be careful not to push against the blade), then a T-square and another level to keep the edges square to the blade. This will also make sure your table edges are always the same length away from each other, even though with this design its not that important. Once you have the edges square get the length of your table (from the front to the back). Mine was 26 1/2 inches.
First, cut the main 2x4. Make it at least a 1/2 longer than the table. So I cut mine to 27 inches. Most 2x4's have routed edges, so I took an eighth inch off the bottom so the 2x4 is square against the table. Next, cut a 5 inch length of 2x4 in half widthwise (so it will be to 2x2's). Those two pieces will be screwed to the end of the fence, so that all the excess will be on the bottom. I used 3 inch deck screws, and countersunk for the heads. Make sure they're heavy duty, because you'll be prying against that every time you tighten the fence. You can screw on the back piece now, but wait until later to attach the front one. Now line up the front piece, and mark where you can put a hole so that you will be screwing against the table, and not underneath it.
I took these screw-in nuts out of an old piece of furniture, but you can buy them at any hardware store. The press in ones work well too, but they require a large spade bit too make it flush. I also had to break a C-clamp for this threaded rod set-up, which is sad, but you can't make an omelette..... You also make this set-up by getting a threaded rod, flat knob, and steel dowel (requires drilling a hole in the threaded rod, which is tricky). Now I drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the front 2x2 and screwed in the screw-in nut using a large hex key. Next put the threaded rod set-up into the nut, screw on the front 2x2 with two deck screws, and you're done!! I marked off the table with rulings in pencil, which seems pretty temporary, but I'll fight that battle later.
Do you have a guide for how you made the table saw top? I have the exact same saw but the top is really torn up.
Very clean, simple design! I routed a channel and epoxied a carpenter's square flush with the surface to make positioning the fence easier.
Pat this is great i was looking to do the same thing with my saw. I found the legs to not be as sturdy as needed and the fence to be horrible. I have the same saw. did you have to make any adjustments to the plastic etc.
Wow, this is definitely a money save! Too bad you didn't have something for a guide as well. But this has been one of my biggest problems, trying to buy a decent fence for my table saw. Pro Tech 10" is what I have. Not the best but nice for what I do, for now ;) .
I knew you were OK when I saw your tools: level, straight edge, square.
I have been debating about whether to buy a new fence or build one. My existing stock fence has gotta go - due to misaignment, I had a bad kickback while cutting a sheet of plywood this week. Now have a nice laceration on my middle (luckily where there is some padding).
Options for the new fence are steel of wood - I will likely go with wood, don't have a welder.
I'm real pleased with the whole setup now. Done with it in fact.
A pretty good setup, simple and inexpensive. Two things to remember; use a well-seasoned, straight-grained, knot-free 2x4 to reduce warp and twisting as much as possible. For safety, measure from the blade to the fence at the front of the blade and the back before you cut. The two measurements should be the same or the back should be a little wider, about the width of a mark on your tape measure.