The Ethiopian scrambled eggs at Royal Coffee in Rogers Park are made with tomato paste, green pepper and onion and come with mi mita (chili powder) and injera (flatbread) on the side.
Way back in 2014, I wrote that I loved biscuits and sandwiches on biscuits. I’m still enamored of them, so I went for a second helping at two places that serve fine examples of this flaky treat. But first, let’s visit an unlikely spot known for its coffee, the sliver of Lake Michigan you can see from the outdoor patio, and one dish that is particularly haunting.
Sometimes it’s the entire menu that entices me, and sometimes it’s one dish that is so good, so unusual and so memorable, I have to write about it. The latter is the case here.
The word “Royal” in the restaurant’s name describes the pure Ethiopian Highland coffee it imports, never blending it with any other bean. The latte I had was full-bodied and smooth.
The counter here has trays of sweets and breads. The menu features egg dishes, including traditional omelets, but I was drawn to the Ethiopian scrambled eggs, featuring tomato paste, mitmita (chili powder) and tiny flecks of green peppers, served with injera (flatbread).
When it arrived, it was a mound that looked more like red rice. When I tore off a piece of the injera that came rolled up on the plate, put a small spoonful of the eggs on it and tasted it, I was hooked. I’m not an intense-spice or green-pepper lover, but the balance and goodness were exceptional.
That it was served with warm hospitality, surrounded by regulars working on laptops, only contributed to the sense of peace the meal offered.
Of note: Fast casual, street parking, outdoor patio (you can see the lake down at the end of Pratt Boulevard), open mic Monday nights, bags of coffee for sale.
Find it: 6764 N. Sheridan Road, 773-761-8100, royalcoffeechicago.com.
Hours: 7 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday; 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday; 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Royal Coffee is named for the pure Ethiopian Highland coffee beans the cafe imports.
Moving just a few blocks from its original spot on Western Avenue to Lincoln Avenue seems to have energized everyone and everything at Baker Miller.
First, there’s air conditioning, which is a big deal, since the Western Avenue location used to feature an open kitchen. The new space offers lots of great natural light, bright colors and the “L” overhead, reminding you that city life is to be enjoyed.
Greeting you as you enter, the baked goods are situated next to the counter where you place your order. Get your buzzer and your utensils, then choose your own seat from wide booths occupying the front windows, or tables and chairs hugging the wall.
You’ve seen shakshouka on other menus, but here they put the tomato sauce, feta, avocado, poached egg, radish and cilantro over their whole oats, which takes it to a new satisfying level.
I cannot resist grits or elotes (Mexican grilled corn), and the combination served with tomatoes, salsa verde, chipotle aioli and tajin (a blend of lime, mild chili peppers and sea salt), topped with a soft egg, made it even more appealing.
With a biscuit on the side, I had to agree with their motto: “We share love through bold and beautiful food.” They should add: “with the warmest welcome in Chicago.” I’ll drink to that; pour another cup of coffee.
Of note: Fast casual, metered street parking, baked goods can be preordered.
Find it: 4655 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-654-3610, bakermillerchicago.com.
Hours: 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday; 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
It’s a bar by night and a great hideout for breakfast by day.
Opposite the long bar inside The Long Room, you’ll find a window/counter with a warm, smiling welcome. Place your order, then grab your own setup and find a round booth. a table or a seat at that bar, and wait for the magic to arrive.
A good biscuit memory lingers: I’ve been thinking about the ones served here since I had them last year — or maybe the year before?
My recent visit came just before Chef Zeeshan Shah announced he’d be stepping away sometime this winter to focus on his new Logan Square restaurant, Superkhana International. The restaurant builds on Bombay Breakdown, the pop-up restaurant Shah and Yoshi Yamada staged in the Long Room and elsewhere. Shah will leave The Biscuit Man in the hands of sous-chef and kitchen manager Analia Beltran-Lang.
The rice bowl with cauliflower, sweet potato, peas and just enough curry was my way of soothing my minor guilt over inhaling the fried chicken biscuit with dill pickles. If you like a grilled cheese sandwich on Texas-size toast, you will love The Biscuit Man version with American cheese and sweet tomato jam.
It’s tough for me not to return often.
Of note: Fast casual, street parking, delivery.
Find it: Tucked inside The Long Room, 1612 W. Irving Park Road, 773-665-8210, biscuitmanchicago.com.
Hours: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 8 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday.