If the cooling fins interfere with arms you could rotate assembly 30 degrees by using a max v1 effector platform, they had 6 holes for stand offs, so you hard more position options. If you can't find one, the stl is probably on github, then print one.
I am REALLY liking the looks of that diamond hit end setup.
I finally got a couple of completed prints out of mine. The height of the support legs for the mount is somewhat critical, I ended up modifying the open SCAD file printing a second one, then adding spacers.
The one issue I have with it right now is what I'm guessing is a large thermal gradient in the brass nozzle as a result of it's size. My thermocouple reads 190, but if it sits at that temperature for any length of time the PLA in the nozzle will pour out of it with extremely low viscosity, which is usually a sign of way too high a temperature.
This makes controlling stringing difficult, I'm going to continue dropping the print temperature to see if I can get it under control. I'm also still messing with how much material has to be deposited on the purge tower to get a clean color change.
Try wrappint the tip with kapton or rtv.
If you can eliminate thermal lossess then actual and measured temp will be closer.
Curious as to how others are running the two extra steppers and what hardware and software is being used.
3D-Print wrote: Curious as to how others are running the two extra steppers and what hardware and software is being used.
I'm currently running 2 steppers from Rambo on mine, with a short length of filament in the 3rd hole, if I can resolve my retraction issue, I'll stick one of my spare pololu drivers on a small breadboard and connect it to a couple of spare IO pins, they are really trivial to wire up.
Currently I can't get S3D to generate the retracts I want, CURA and Kiss have other issues.
Polygonhell wrote: I finally got a couple of completed prints out of mine. The height of the support legs for the mount is somewhat critical, I ended up modifying the open SCAD file printing a second one, then adding spacers.
Could you please give dimensions you have got in result? Most important, what position of effector ralative at nozzle orifice? I am designing holder from scratch, and only thing to be done is to set effector position. Also, could you please explain why "The height of the support legs for the mount is somewhat critical"? What positions are mechanically save to work with?
Jesse, were you able to get yours operational?
Jesse's Diamond had an interference problem between the ribbed cold end and the heater cartridge. He mailed it to me and I machined the bottom several fins on an angle so they would clear. Anyone else have this problem?
mhackney wrote: Jesse, were you able to get yours operational?
My initial effector mount cleared, but there wasn't enough clearance between the mounting bolts and the print, which led to issues, I dropped the mount by 10mm, that led to interference issues with the fins, I ended up adding 5mm spacers and that's worked out OK. Bear in mind I'm running E3D V6 Lite heatsinks, I don't know if they are dimensionally different.
My issues are largely about generating the retracts I want, if you retract A and prime B, you end up with filament immediately being extruded during the prime. I guess the retract just forms some sort of air bubble this tends to cause the priming extruder to dump a tone of plastic and often skip later causing underextrusion as the pressure normalizes. So what I would like to do us retract A before moving to the prime tower prime A, then use the prime tower for the color change, I can't find a slicer with a enough prime tower area that will let me do this. I can do everything except the retract/prime on the primary extruder during the move to and from the prime tower. If it's cooler this weekend I might write a post processor. Currently I get good color changes and pretty good quality, but with brutal strings between the prime tower and the print.
I'll measure the platform when I get a chance.
So mounting bolts heads must be ~2 mm above model, right?
I have done a water cool conversion to my E3D V6 hot ends. I LOVE water cooling and I am sure it has a lot to do with my success of never plugging.
You would not be able to get 3 jackets around the cold zones on a diamond hot end, not enough space.
What do you mean a package from me is coming? I don't know anything about it!
mhackney wrote: You would not be able to get 3 jackets around the cold zones on a diamond hot end, not enough space.
mhackney wrote: What do you mean a package from me is coming?
Not yet. I'm going to try to mount it on my Kossel 2020. I printed three compact extruders and three spool holders. Still need 2 more MK8 extruder gears. The mount for a kossel 2020 (aka kossel mini) is a work in progress.
Oh, looks like it takes whole month. But I did it.
If anyone wants .stl, just ask, i'll mail it to you (with modifications, if needed).
This if part of my Ashwood mkI MAX METAL-based printer project (bet previous version without light is fully compatible with classic SeeMeCNC EPlatform); special thanks to Brian for awesome TL MM EP!
Renha wrote: If anyone wants .stl, just ask, i'll mail it to you (with modifications, if needed).
I would recommend putting it on Thingiverse.
Renha wrote: ...maybe something like that?
Polygonhell wrote: My issues are largely about generating the retracts I want, if you retract A and prime B, you end up with filament immediately being extruded during the prime. I guess the retract just forms some sort of air bubble this tends to cause the priming extruder to dump a tone of plastic and often skip later causing underextrusion as the pressure normalizes.
Is this a problem that's specific to the diamond or would the cyclops also have this issue?
Don't know if the cyclops would do the same thing, it seems like any similar design would behave this way. It's not really an misuse IFF you can get the right set of retract/prime pairs and have a decently sized prime tower for the color transition.
However at the point I did my testing there was no slicer that allowed both.
Cyclops does have the advantage of being considerably lighter, that big block of brass for the nozzle is quite heavy.
Does anybody have a working link to these 2 parts?