Andrew Carmellini's hyper-local gem at the Smyth Tribeca.
: Andrew Carmellini’s understated TriBeCa gem offers a market-driven menu that’s dominated by vegetables and loaded with hyper-local products. Crispy Brussels sprouts are emboldened with apple, smoked parsnip and crunchy breadcrumbs. Smoked trout roe and a dash of tangy horseradish does the same for the beetroot tartare. Limited pasta offerings are well-executed, including the whole-wheat spaghetti with Red Wattle pork and pappardelle with pork ragù and rich 'nduja. Mains include a spatchcock chicken that could not be more tender, and a very good steamed black bass. And if all that wasn’t enough, desserts in particular shine: cinnamon crunch ice cream, and chocolate rye cake with hazelnut ice cream alone are worth the price of admission. For brunch, there's brûléed Florida grapefruit with ginger sugar and baked eggs strewn with lamb chorizo. The globally sourced wine list is divided by geography: coasts, river valleys, lakes, etc. Among the cocktails is "Sabotage," a concoction of pear brandy, Far North Alander spiced rum, lemon and agave.