Put the lamb into a bowl with ginger, chilies, coriander, chili powder and 1 teaspoon each of the garam masala and salt, adding 1 tablespoon of the yoghurt to moisten the spices and help distribute them evenly.
A teaspoon or so of the ghee can also be added if the lamb is very lean.
Mix well and form into small oval shapes.
Heat ghee in a heavy saucepan, add the dried milk, sugar, remaining yoghurt, garam masala and salt.
Fry in the ghee, then add half cup hot water.
Bring to the boil and add the koftas.
Simmer, covered until no liquid remains.
Turn koftas over, add half cup more hot water and the pepper, cover and simmer until liquid is absorbed once more.
Sprinkle the dish with cardamom and serve with Indian breads or rice.
Cover after adding cardamom so its fragrance will not dissipate.