anyway pictures only for the sake of completeness, I expect everyone has seen these before.
and the two I'm less sure of, one in a kepi/forage hat and one in beret. the latter looks a little GI joe for my tastes,. I might scrap him or at least his head in favour of another forage cap or Helmet.
and now bonus material, with ponderances.
The first guy is a bit pointy. but I've had that head for ages and love the half chrome "terminator" thing he has going on.
I suppose this guy is my "Gears of war" Homage, I had to use up some of the chainsword blades I've had kicking around.
That's it for this update. I'm happy with the way these guys are coming together so I've got some more scouts on horder and a few new heads coming, a mix of interesting bitz heads and my feeble GS additions should keep each guy fresh.
just need to let my fevered brain work out what it's doing with those three acolytes now.
Another massive update, Karitas! First off, the assembled chimeras look a bit off; some of the hull joints didn't seem glued together. Is it a difficult kit to assemble? I've got 1 chimera which is going to be mounted with a conversion beamer cannon, so I was wondering... The sarge with the combi-melta certainly has that imposing presence; is that a krak grenade in his left hand? The forage cap & beret troopers; I LOVE them, especially the beret. Very well detailed GS work. You're really allowing their individualities to shine through. As for the acolyte shoulder pads, I do fancy the curved ones you put on the acolyte with the psycannon & powerfist combo; simple, unique & they fit well with the "feel" of the acolytes. All it needs to pretty them up would be to graft some small skull icons & Inquisitor brass etchings & Bob's yer uncle. I hope you won't mind a novice like me doling out a suggestion to a veteran like you Karitas. :) Seeing as how (like me) you do a lot of conversion work that involves filing & shaving down the plastic surfaces, an extremely quick & insanely easy way to get rid of the scratchy plastic surface would be to spread a thin coat of plastic cement over the filed surface with a applicator brush (I use only Tamiya or Mr Hobby Mr Cement) & once dry, the scratches disappear & you have decent smooth surface for painting. I've found that this method is also good for "sealing" joint lines without resorting to GSing the gaps. But one drawback is that you need to make sure you use "fresh" plastic cement to do this; when the cement gets too thick, it'll obliterate details on the miniature instead. Eagerly awaiting your next update.
You have some great projects going on karitas, lots of greenstuff, lots of hair. Very awesome. Remind me to come back again some time, I really like your conversion works.
Thanks both, much appreciated, HKD I was intending to use a milliput wash for scratch filling, mainly becuase i dont have any plastic cement :) i use CA glue for most things. i assume ytou mean what we would call "polystyrene cement"? the kind traditionally used for airfix kits? i ask becuase i also used to use liquid poly too, which is very different.
there is 1 chim that's off, it was a real pain as trhe main body was very warped. i've tried to compensate as best i can but it's left 1 huge notocable gap at the front, i'm going to fill/disguise it.
Yo Karitas, thanks much for your affirmation, I really do appreciate it. And yes, I do mean polystyrene cement although this is the first time I've heard of a "milliput wash"; what is it?
A pity of the warped Chimera piece; I hope mine turns out okay when I assemble it.
If you've ever used milliupt you will have seen that, when wet it responds like slip clay, goes very watery and slimy.
fortunately though i don't think i will need it, i have some very fine grit finishing paper, and though the plastic still shows a little rough visibly, its quite smooth to the touch and i think a prime will obscure and scratches.
Milliput wash sounds like brilliant stuff. Thanks for sharing this nugget of info, Karitas.