Sierra Negra Volcano on Isla Isabela, Galapagos, last erupted in 2005. The caldera is over 110 square kilometers and just beginning to show new volunteer plants.
The Galapagos Islands’ main draw is the wildlife: the marine life, botanics, birds, and mammals that have populated the volcanic islands since they were formed some million and a half years ago. Like most visitors, our expectations revolved around spotting and photographing wildlife, and with Galakiwi Tours, we anticipated lots of land and water based activity, too.
I didn’t expect to be captivated so much by the history of people on the Galapagos. In their short time on the Galapagos–just over the last 500 years–humans have inflicted a lot of damage, and also made huge strides in correcting that damage. Even Galapagos tourism has evolved since it became popular in the 1970s.
When the Galapagos were first discovered, by accident, by a Spanish priest sailing from Panama to South America in 1535, the islands were quickly deemed inhospitable. Pirates liked to hide here, and whalers hauled off giant tortoises to provide sustenance on their ships as they sailed on. (If it’s true that pre-Colombians had landed here much earlier, they certainly didn’t find the water and food needed to stay.) The Galapagos are epitomized by hot temperatures, precious little fresh water, shoe-depleting sharp lava rocks, and prickly plants built to protect their precious fruits. No land mammals other than the tortoise were about, until sailors introduced rats and bats.
Over 2100 tortoises have been released to the wild since the breeding center on Isabela was established in 1999. We came across this pair while biking near the Wall of Tears.
Even with the publication of Darwin’s Origin of Species in the 19th Century, the practical protection of endemic species was little understood. Once Ecuador gained independence from Spain in 1822, penal colonies were introduced as a means of populating the isolated islands and asserting ownership. Gradually, little towns and villages took hold, with nothing of any significance developing until the 20th Century. Agriculture and the introduction of domestic animals quickly affected the delicate balance of endemic and introduced species. And a US military base brought construction and more people.
Biology research and tourism both started to take off in the 1970s. That’s when Lonesome George, the famous last specimen of a now extinct species (4 of 15 Galapagos tortoise species are now extinct) was discovered on Pinta Island. Research centers and tortoise breeding centers were founded. Tourism was supported largely by small explorer boats and cruise ships. The fishing industry dominated the islands, but the population grew quickly with an influx of Ecuadorians eager to capture the tourism trade.
Now, in the 21st Century, four of the islands are inhabited. The military base on Baltra was converted to the first commercial airfield in the Galapagos, serving Santa Cruz Island. In 2007, an airport in San Cristobal opened, and the port there has been improved to accommodate passengers shuttled from cruise ships anchored nearby. According to Galapagos Conservation Trust, barely 10,000 visited the islands per year in the 1970s; since 2013, the numbers have exceeded 200,000.
In the 1990s, controls were also imposed on mainland Ecuadorians trying to transplant to the Galapagos. Galapagos birth or immediate family heritage is now required for residency. These days, each island has its own identity and regulations. Carry-on bags are checked to be sure there’s no transportation of seeds; even boat licensing is handled independently by each island.
Pepo, our San Cristobal guide, in the family treehouse. The treehouse is available to rent, and the property offers food and beverages and a playground for all ages. It’s popular with locals and visitors alike.
Of course the growing population and visitor count means the need for more outside food–which presents more danger to endemic species. But as one of the world’s first twelve UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site (1978), the Galapagos are handled with care. With international support, the priorities are firmly on the side of sustainable tourism: conserve water and energy, recycle and treat waste, source locally produced products, and hire and train local employees for a fair wage.
Just as children growing up in this natural playground are learning to protect it as they enjoy it, land-based tourism visitors can immerse themselves in the whole picture of the Galapagos–on land and sea–and contribute to a sustainable program of tourism and protection.
We were lucky to have such a knowledgeable guide in Pablo and Galakiwi Tours, who hosted our visit to the Galapagos. We understand the delicate balance between tourism and conservation on the islands, and we are continuing to research and listen to views on the future of tourism in the Galapagos. Opinions expressed here are the authors’ alone, and have not been reviewed, approved nor edited by these companies.
Wendy visited Galapagos in December of 2015 (seems like last year to me), and did a self-guided land based tour, plus an 8 day guided boat cruise on a small catamaran that visited remote Galapagos Islands that are only accessible by boat. We enjoyed our time on both land-based and boat-based. They are very different experiences, so tourists should choose based on their personal interests. I did several posts on Galapagos last year [on AdventurousRetirement (dot) com], including one that compares land and boat-based trips.
Thanks. We’ve been inspired to keep learning about how the various forms of tourism are impacting the Galapagos. While some people have an attitude (as they do toward Cuba) that one should visit “before it all changes,” I see much care, discussion and consideration going into the development of tourism alongside the protection of the ecosystems.
I visited the Galapagos several years ago on a small yacht. It was an unforgettable experience. A land-based trip would be lovely to do, too! Love the sea lion pic!
No! I would go back in a heartbeat!
Having a great guide can make al, the difference to a tour. Would love to take this tour of the Galapagos.
It was especially cool to meet one of our guide’s family, who were all involved in a business used by both locals and visitors.
I always thought the Galapagos were uninhabited save for the cruise ship passengers. I only realised they weren’t recently when I read another blog talking about visiting Galapagos by land. The idea of a land based visit is much more attractive to us than going there on a cruise.
We certainly gained a lot of info by visiting with a couple families who entertained us for dinners at their restaurants. In both cases, they had come from careers working on ships! There’s never much separation between land and marine (or sea-faring) life in the Galapagos!
Interesting – I hadn’t realised anyone (apart from animals) actually lived on the Galapagos Islands. That’s a wonderful picture of a sea lion!
For fun/frightening history of early Galapeño settlers, do check out “The Galapagos Affair: Satan Came to Eden” documentary. It’s a harsh place for people; even today the land demands respect.
I’ve never had the pleasure of visiting the Galapagos, but I have seen those spectacular turtles in far-flung spots, most recently at the zoo in Columbia, South Carolina. I do hope to see their relatives one day on their native turf.
The tortoise breeding centers are a highlight of any visit. They are making great progress.
Your article about the Galapagos Islands brought back such wonderful memories for me. I would go back in a heartbeat!
Me, too! The more I look into the variety of tours, the more I’m interested. AND, I could do this exact same itinerary again.