WHEN it seems there’s nothing in the cupboard, there’s always a can of tuna.
And when best-selling author Joie Warner got her hands on the pantry staple, she went wild with can-tastic possibilities, coming up with a whole bookful, “Take a Tin of Tuna” (Chronicle Books, $19.95).
Tuna tapanade and crostini with lemon and capers led to deep-fried wontons with plum sauce, Thai tuna cakes with chili dip, chowder and even a souffle.
Sandwiches include “not your mother’s tuna melt,” made with artichoke salad. Even tuna noodle casserole gets a little classy with its lemon cream sauce.
We couldn’t resist trying tuna-eggplant caponata. It could hardly be easier to whip up this spread, a no-brainer blend of the flaky fish and jarred antipasto of eggplant, celery, capers and olives in tomato sauce. The results tasted OK, but was too scary-looking to serve company.
Farfalle with tuna, lemon and caper sauce was a better bet all around. The pretty bow-tie noodles dressed with piquant and salty flavors hit on all notes, the sauce is no-cook, and, as with many of the dishes, most of the ingredients are probably already in your kitchen.
Best of all were tuna cakes, crisp-coasted, lightly packed patties brightened with lime and Tabasco – they really don’t need the bland créme-fraiche tartar sauce, though.
Warner also offers stock-your-pantry info: An unopened can will keep for a year if stored in a cool place, and tuna in olive oil yields the best flavor.