When Larry McGuire and Thomas Moorman Jr. acquired Jeffrey’s for their growing dining empire, they also got the petite bungalow next door called Josephine House, which the former owners used for parties. Recognizing the perfect space for leisurely lunches, the restaurateurs decided to make it a cozy lunch spot­—and keep its name in honor of the woman who once owned it.
The interior is equally pleasant. Rows of colored liquor bottles lining the windowed bar wall filter sunlight as it enters the flower-filled dining area, where a marble counter elegantly displays breads, salads and pastries. In fact, “on the marble counter” is the menu designation for cold plates and pastry chef Alexandra Manley’s desserts. Entrees are “from the kitchen.” Selections change daily, reflecting Chef de Cuisine Jen Jackson’s heavy reliance on local, seasonal sources.
That translates into eclectic offerings such as the farro salad with a rich puree of roasted rainbow carrots, textured with hazelnuts and currants and flavored with mint and dill. It was a highlight. We also tried an array of marinated beets with grapefruit, avocado butter and radish and a chicken leg terrine with a tasty fruit mostarda and zesty pickled celery.
They went well with Jo’s House Fruit Cup, a not-too-sweet cocktail of Old Overholt rye, muddled lemon, lime, orange, mint, cucumber and other fresh fruits. In addition to unusual cocktails and a nice wine selection, the intriguing drink menu also features housemade sodas in flavors such as cherry vanilla and pineapple.
Our favorite “kitchen” items were the duck confit and the pan-roasted tile fish. The confit sits atop wilted kale, with fennel, fried shallots and a sherry-honey vinaigrette. The wonderful blend of flavors pairs perfectly with the fish, a thick, nicely salted and crusted chunk over a shallow broth with carrots, potatoes and bacon, accompanied by oyster crackers made from Jackson’s grandmother’s recipe.
Manley’s European-inspired desserts are equally inventive. Her sweet, gingery lemon chess pie is delicious, and the strawberry and cornmeal crostada, with its feathery, cinnamon-kissed crust and chamomile ice cream topping, is a true delight. We also adored her cookies, especially the financier, a soft rectangle of buttery goodness.
If it all sounds a little rustic, it’s meant to. Jackson and Manley even churn butter, make preserves and cheeses and pickle fruits and vegetables in-house and will soon be baking breads in Jeffrey’s wood-fired oven.
It makes me think of becoming a lady who lunches a lot more often.