Naomi Goodsir is an Australian designer whose hats look as cool and striking and as her fragrances smell.
Cuir Velours (Velvet Leather) was released in 2012 and includes notes of leather, tobacco, rum, cistus labdanum, incense and immortelle.
Despite the “Cuir” in the name, I get a refined suede rather than tough leather. There is nothing that reminds me of tanning fumes or birch tar and I don’t get any smoke. For the most part, both the aroma and texture is akin to velvety peach skin.
On opening, the muted suede is drenched in fruity, boozy, syrup. At this stage it lies somewhere between Boxeuses and Bottega Venetta. I presume it’s the immortelle and rum that’s creating this effect, but it isn’t too spicy or harshly alcoholic.
It’s all a bit too sweet and boozy for my taste, but the whole feel is very smooth and luxe. It doesn’t shout and there are no rough edges.
If you love gourmand-inflected suede scents then I can imagine it verging on the addictive. It’s easier to wear than other fragrances in this category because while it is sweet, it’s not domineering.
It may also appeal if you have a fondness for cosmetic perfumes. As it settles, Cuir Velours throws off a beauty balm like quality which now reminds me of Ramon Monegal’s Cuirelle but without the honey. It’s that face-powder-mixed-with-cold-cream-on-suede effect which adds softness and an increased level of comfort.
I start to enjoy it a few hours in, when the booze has completely evaporated and the sweet syrup has dialled down a few notches. Now it really feels velvety soft and creamy with that “Your Skin But Better” vibe. I get some labdanum in the far drydown which only adds to that feeling.
For a fragrance layered with so many traditionally bold accords, Cuir Velours winds up being surprisingly low on projection. I have to get close to detect it, but when I do it’s inviting and rather sensual.
In style alone, it’s reminiscent perfumer Julien Rasquinet’s other creation for Naomi Goodsir, Bois d’Ascese and his Russian Tea for Masque Milano. They all have a striking yet subdued profile and seem to cling to the skin. However, I would say that Cuir Velours leans more feminine than either of those two. Longevity is very good as it quietly lingers for hours.
It’s a low-key, sweetened suede with a cosmetic twist which would be equally appropriate at the office as on a date. Perfect to wrap yourself in on cold days when the chill wind threatens to get into your bones.
Cuir Velours is a fragrance to live in and make your own, like a second skin.
Have you tired Cuir Velours? Would you recommend I try Naomi Goodsir’s Or du Serail?
Beautiful description Tara. Unfortunately the immortelle is what makes me unable to wear this one, somehow the booze magifies the immortelle aspect to me, but I agree that apart from that it’s “inviting and rather sensual”.
I have still to try anything from Masque Milano, several sound so interesting but especially the one you mention Russsian Tea.
Yes, I’m not good with immortelle or boozy notes and one may well emphasise the other. It’s a shame as I like it later on and I really want a nice suede fragrance in my collection. They are so often sweet like this though.
I was impressed by the Masque Milano perfumes and will post my mini-reviews the week after next.
Yes, I just need to try a bit harder!
Did you try the Madama Butterfly from HdP?
I agree, I’m not in the mood for strikingly bold most of the time.
Very interested to hear you liked Iris Cendre as I have a sample of that one at home waiting for me to try it.
The closest I got to a suede scent was Bottega Veneta (Bonita Veneta!) but it became too sweet for me to tolerate after a while and I gave the bottle to my sister.
Because of the birch tar I think of Cuir de Russie as more leather.