Next up for the rigging on my new Hobie Outback is to outfit the hull with some necessities. I tend to keep my rigging simple, so this will be picture intensive but simple in total mods completed. In short, a couple GearTracs, tsome new electronics, a power kit and some decals.
First up, the easy stuff - decals and as always, a couple YakAttack GearTracs. The only rigging solution for me and the best in the business hands down. I opted for the GT-175-04 series and installed them in the forward recessed tray areas. I filled each hole with some marine grade silicone sealant before installing each mounting screw.
The port side will be for the fish finder, while the starboard side will be used for my YakAttack Panfish Portrait mount and camera. It can also be used for a YakAttack Zooka Tube or even a YakAtttack Dogbone Camera Mount for a different camera angle. I'll install a couple more in the coming weeks once I decide where I want them. I also plan on installing the YakAttack NITEStripe as well sometime within the next week.
Next up, the new Lowrance Elite-5 CHIRP fish finder. I removed the transducer plate and installed the transducer using the provided hardware and mounted it with some free space to permit true water temp and depth/soundings.
Next, I routed the transducer wire up through the wire channel into the cockpit area. Using the front twist and stow hatch, remove the two center foam supports so can you reach the backside of the wire nut and unscrew the retaining ring.
You need to use the large two-hole wire nut grommet insert from the Hobie fish finder tree. Route the transducer cable through the grommet and reinstall in the hull. Route the transducer cable removing as much slack as possible back into the hull pulling the line forward and out of the hatch. Re-insert the two foam supports and route the cable between the foam inserts. I routed mine between the center and the port side support zip tying the excess wire and stowing it between the supports.
Reach inside the hatch again and remove the retaining ring on whichever side wire nut your prefer, I chose the left. Remove the wire nut and route both the transducer cable and the power cable through both the retaining ring. It is a snug fit and will require a little encouraging but it will go through. Routing the second one through requires a little more effort, but angling the connector through the ring will fit.
The hardest part of this install is the next part - deciding whether to use one wire nut or two. The reason is that the two cables for the newer Lowrance units have a total of three wires. None of the Hobie provided grommets on the tree can accommodate this configuration. If you opt for the second wire nut approach, then you will need to drill out another large hole. I personally didn't want two wire nuts, so I modified the Hobie well nut by using a drill bit to create a notch for the third wire. After a few tweaks and use of a small screwdriver to manipulate the grommet, I made it work.
Next, I installed the head unit to the RAM Mounting Systems connector and YakAttack 1.5" Screwball. I positioned it where I like it and connected both the transducer and battery connectors in order to determine the proper length of cable to leave exposed above the wire nut. These wires are tucked away in the map pocket when the kayak is stored.
Last step is to wire the power and ground wires to the included inline fuse and Hobie battery connector. As with all of my electronics installs, I solder the connections, and protect the connection with heat shrink and a wrap of electric tape.
One extra modification I do is to secure the excess cabling in a manner that reduces any noise from the wires slapping the inside of the hull while on the water or moving the hull to and fro. Not all kayak hulls have extra attach points on the inside of the hull. On the Outback, this is made easier by the location of the forward rudder pulley located just behind the hatch opening. I simply placed a cable mount clip around the power wire and secured it to the front of the pulley housing with a zip tie and took up the slack wire.
The result is a clean wire path that doesn't interfere with the operation of the twist and stow rudder.
After all is said and done, plug in the battery and turn on your new fish finder. Success!!!
Hope you found some of the tips and tricks I used helpful.
Let me take a moment and apologize for the long hiatus - I've been battling a case of no vacation left at work combined with the holidays with kids out of school/day care, family visiting and Mother Nature not cooperating. My last trip was actually one late in the fall and was on a boat with some good friends chasing citation Sea Bass and monster Bluefish, but I digress. With 2015 already in full swing, what better way to get my year started right than to start rigging my latest addition to the fleet - the 2015 Hobie Outback. I decided to switch things up by trying a new hull and a new color, so I opted for the Ivory Dune this time in place of the yellow.
First order of business - installing my new Power-Pole Micro Anchor courtesy of JL Marine. I first reached out to the good folks at YakAttack to send me their custom mounting plate that not only serves as the base mount, but also still allows full operation of the twist and stow rudder on the Hobie Outback. To get things started, it is recommended but not required to have some form of stable/elevated work station - it will save you from having to kneel and bend over too much risking strain on your neck and back. With the freezing temps in my neck of the woods, I brought the hull inside the house in our kitchen and made do by using four of our dining room chairs - shhhh don't tell my wife!
Once positioned and balanced, you first remove the port side rear rudder tie down cleat. Simply done by using some form of pliers. I used a crescent wrench but anything will work, since the fitting is not locked in place with Loctite.
Using a narrow marker or gel-style pen, mark your first hole and use a 1/4" drill bit to drill your first hole. In the same packet that contained the mounting plate, you'll notice a mounting kit on one end. Open it and remove one of the three large countersunk screw head bolts. The fourth large bolt is a round head Allen bolt and is installed last, so leave it aside for now. Using a Phillips head screw driver, hand tighten/install the screw through the mounting plate and into the hull until it is reasonably secure but not fully installed. It is recommended that you go ahead and setup your first bolt with the rubber bushing installed along with the other rubber bushings in each recess to that help minimize the plate moving while you finish your pilot marks, and drill one hole at a time to secure the remaining holes using the hardware provided.
When installing any locking nuts and washers on the my kayaks, I prefer to go one step further and use silicone sealant whenever possible. In this case, I filled each o-ring with a small dollop of sealant, then a little on the washer as well. Once I have installed all of the lock nuts, I have a silicone barrier above (remember that dollop I placed in the screw hole before installing the screw) and below the hull and have minimized the chance for water to creep in. After you have installed the lock nuts, the rubber bushings will start to seat and compress slightly. It is recommended to not over tighten the lock nuts any further at this point.
For power, some of you may choose to use the included power cable. If so, you will need to find the proper battery and mount it. For those that have Hobie hulls with the twist and stow hatch, you can use the Hobie Power-Pole Power kit (Hobie Item #72020076) which includes all the necessary items to install the power source you will need to place it in the rear hatch, or just the battery bracket (Hobie item #72025007) if you have the rest of the items. I installed mine to ensure it works, but I prefer a cleaner look and ability to remove the motor without leaving wires hanging about or another battery to charge and carry, so I am opting for the rechargeable Lithium Ion battery pack once it is released. Until then, I will use an external battery in a sealed dry bag for easy removal when loading and unloading.
Hope you found this install helpful.