Which black and red wires??
It was corrected on this diagram. You should always break the live wire not the neutral.
Yeah, need to rewire mine to switch the hot wire. Also to change over to terminals instead of the solder, since I followed the manual.
Should the gray and yellow wires coming from the motors be switched like in this diagram, or is the diagram in the manual correct?
Follow this diagram. It is the most current.
This topic got out of hand and I have removed some posts. As this is a pinned post, lets keep it clean. If you want to discuss different methods of wiring and such, post them in the general section. This guide has been posted as a service to our community. Keep the discussion constructive and on topic please.
Thanks for providing a nice schematic that works. Still not sure why the FANS are connected to the PSU and not the FAN header on the board, though.
Staff note: I removed the part of this comment that continued what I asked you not to. Do not continue.
I'd like to add a tip to this thread, regarding wiring up the FT-5.
It helps to remove the control board and redrill holes 1 to 1.5 inches to the left of the current position of the board and re-mount. There is considerable outward strain on the screw terminals on both the PSU and the MKS board when bending the mains and power cables outward to accommodate proper wire routing.
It's not necessary, but I highly recommend doing so. I wouldn't move the PSU to the right, as it would make accessing the nyloc nut behind the mains switch next to impossible without removing the PSU.
moving the MKS to the left allows the wires to leave the PSU output and the MKS board far straighter than curling up and outward abruptly with 14ga wiring, which is not very bendy in a tight radius.
The FAN output on the controller is meant to be controlled by firmware. The fans are connected to the PSU directly as they are meant to be always on.
Is this still the latest and greatest for stock wiring? Even the current manual shows pictures that are confusing.
Yes except for the current inclusion of pre-made harnesses. The connections will still be the same.
Maximum current with active cooling: 210A. Very powerful MOSFET to withstand higher current than normal RAMPS or other 3D Printer controller can handle. If you plan to use silicone heater of large area heated bed, you most likely will overcome limitations for the current, that can handle your current 3d printer electronics. | eBay!
This is something that everyone really should add IMHO.
And no, I don't get anything from sales of these .
I literally didn't even power my FT-5 up before adding one (there are of course many others like them).
The amount of current required by the large bed heaters on these printers is rather excessive for the stock control board's connectors and on-board MOSFET.
The MKS boards were clearly designed with smaller heated beds in mind.
The problem with this is that the OP, @heartless, has gone inactive for some time. I'm no good at this type of thing but if someone wants to update it, feel free.
Is the .jpg the only format it is available in?
I do have PaintShop but .jpg edits can be awkward.
Very good job. It actualy doesn't even look like you edited it.
The only file I know of that was released is this one. I don't like editing jpg either but you did a great job!
I linked this post on the initial post.
Please do respect @heartless' wishes above though and do not post this anywhere else unless you find a way to ask her first. This was requested here.
Not a problem, it is intended solely for this forum anyway.
I rather suspect that FT wouldn't care much for it though because it contains things they do not provide.
It was a fair amount of work.
I may create a more "formal" version later (a proper CAD print) for my own future reference.
If I do I will of course post it here.
Not surprisingly, the manual is not corresponding with this schematic.
On page 68, the sequence described is: Green, Yellow, Gray, Red.
However, the image depicts: Green, Gray, Yellow, Red.
In other words, pins 2 and 3 of the male side for the controller board are transposed. I don't know if that makes a difference or not. Some guidance would be appreciated.