Was thinking on my '88/5.0L STX Ranger, luv'd that truck.
One problem I had was the motor running little hotter than I like on the Hi-way at 55-65, around 205 degrees or so.
I tried a lower degree thermostats but did nothing.
Around town, the motor temp was normal, no problems but get it up to 55+ and the temp went up.
I had a friend, a Ford Engineer, we talked about it and hi stated that when I lifted the truck, it created a wind block in the engine compartment, and reduced the air coming through the radiator.
Well... how do I fix it... right; his statement was I needed to release the pressure build up under the hood, again how !
To test his theory, I raised the rear of my hood 1", sort of poor mans Crowl induction but a reverse, not an intake. The temperature in town, slow driving below 45, was around 180-190, good and on the hi-way the temp was 180-190... WHAM-BAM, he got it right.
What happened, I lifted the truck 5", removed the Bumper / Air Dam to allow a Winch Bumper to be installed, and even with electric fans my temp went high.
So if you see your temp running a little higher than you wanted, especially on the hi-way, either raise the back of the hood or add a reversed hood scoop and open up the back of the hood allowing the air flow to be released.
Something to keep in mind.
Hurst Shifter w/Longer Replacement Shift Handle with (Homemade) Mounting Adapter; 1.5" up x 1" back.
Backrack mod'd to fit Steppie, Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
I ordered a re-manufactured long block from Fraser Engines. Has a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty on it. Should be here this week sometime. Will likely be going in the truck the first week of February. On the plus side, the salvage yard I got my original 5.0 from gave me all my money back even though it was outside of warranty.
OK, you now have a good starting point.
The Stock 5.0L should be a good reliable power plant.
Are you planning anything, headers, free flowing exhaust ?
Good Luck with the new setup.
Good to hear there are some good businesses out there, someone that you can go back to and count on.
That's right TM's are the only ones that fit there than the Explorer Junk headers.
So that hose should free up the flow out the back.
Anything other than the Headers or are you sticking to OEM Stock ?
I didn't think a long block came with the timing cover... used, unbroken is as good as new... and it would be factory.
Maybe that JY, where you got your other motor from, may have the right timing cover, might be cheaper than a new one... but you may have said you already ordered one.
What transmission are you thinking on ?
I used a 3 speed automatic on my conversion, a little easier and sturdier than a Ranger 5-sp; if I did it again, I'm thinking minimum a 4 sp OD automatic but there are a few choices out there.
The 3-speed C-4 auto held up really well, I had shift kit in it to tighten up the shifts, but at 65 I missed the OD.
Anyone ever heard of Gulf Pride oil? Just out of curiosity.
It is Gulf Oil's high end motor oil. I haven't used it as I use Mobile1.
Well not entirely. There was a FMS header that works, I own a set. Will work on GT and GTP heads.
There are at least 2 companies that make clones of the TM headers, one is OBX and the other I can't remember but there is one more.
One thing for sure the stock expo headers are certainly junk.
the more you change the oil and filter now, the longer your new engine will last.
make sure you take some pictures!!
Update 2: First issue i've run into with this reman engine. The engine I ordered is an 'HD' engine. It came with a dual roller timing chain on it. On the front of the cam gear, it has what appears to be some sort of oil slinger. This slinger is hitting the timing cover. Wonder if anyone has run into a similar issue and how to go about addressing it?
Tell your engine builder his timing set not compatible with your timing cover so he can offer advice or?
That is actually the eccentric that drives the mechanical fuel pump used on a carbureted 302. It probably hits because Ford reduced all of the front end clearances to allow the EFI 302 to fit more comfortably in the tight Ex engine bay. Should be easy enough to shorten the eccentric a bit and use it as a spacer.
If you choose to remove the eccentric entirely, you would need to use the shorter EFI dowel pin. The longer pin indexes and drives the cam, sprocket and eccentric on the carbed version. The shorter EFI pin ties the cam and sprocket together.
Always torque and use thread locker on the center bolt.
EFI Explorer 5.0 with dual roller timing set, factory Ex bolt and washer. The short dowel pin is retained by the hardened washer. You can see part of it below the washer.
I absolutely can not win with this truck. Now the re-man engine has a knocking/ticking noise coming from the passenger side and two pending codes (P1132 and P1152).
Oh man..... I was looking forward to hopefully a video soon.
do you have OBD2 scanner?
It has torque monster headers on it. Had a technician look at it and he thinks the header where it meets the head is warped.
You need to use Percy's or Mr gasket style gaskets which are layered metal (deadsoft aluminum) that compresses and makes up any gaps.
Got a link to either of those that will fit a 2000 Explorer 5.0?
Oreillys usually has them on the shelf if you have one near or similar store?
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