From Iraq with love, a great jam with a surprising ingredient.
Nawal Nasrallah, a food historian and author, writes about Iraqui cuisine in a warm, rich style that beautifully highlights each recipe’s historical and cultural background. Her newly revised cookbook, Delights From The Garden Of Eden, is about to be released in a new edition, and I can’t wait to read it (and cook from it).
I liked Nasralla’s surprising watermelon rind jam especially because the recipe ensures that there’s no food waste. Even more than that, it’s an old-fashioned, slow-food recipe that promises to taste simply delicious.
You will be surprised how beautiful and tasty this jam will turn out to be. Its origin cannot be any humbler: watermelon rind, usually discarded after the juicy ruby melon pulp is sliced off. In other parts of the world this rind ends up being pickled, but in Iraq we transform it into a charming chunky jam, usually served with geymer (slabs of clotted cream) or butter for breakfast.
Cut rind into strips, about 1 inch wide and 2 inches long. Cover in cold water and bring to a quick boil.
Reduce heat, and simmer slowly until translucent, about 30 minutes. Drain, and reserve 3 cups of liquid.
In a heavy pot, completely dissolve sugar in reserved liquid.
Add honey, lemon peel or ginger, and cardamom. Bring to a boil, skimming as needed.
Add the drained watermelon rind, and boil gently over medium heat, for 30 minutes.
Remove from heat, cover, and set aside, overnight.
Boil pot again over medium heat until syrup thickens, about 30 minutes.
Add lemon juice in the last 5 minutes. Test for doneness by putting a drop of syrup on a dry cold dish, and tilt it. If the drop does not go flat, and keeps its domed shape, it is done.
Let the jam cool off completely. If wished, put the jam in a strainer to get rid of extra syrup.
Store it in the refrigerator and use as needed. It will stay good for a long time.