Skip Barcelona and head south for the ultimate Spanish beach experience.
Malaga has typically been used by tourists as a jumping off point for more glamorous vacations on Spain’s Costa del Sol, or an entry point for the rest of Andalusia. But Andalusians know the city is much more than a layover spot. Nestled between the Mediterranean and the Montes de Malaga mountains, Malaga is one of the oldest cities in the world, the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, and a cosmopolitan beach spot. In other words, if you’re looking for a beach vacation on the Iberian peninsula where you won’t be overwhelmed by all your fellow tourists, maybe skip Barcelona and head to Málaga.
The city is a great spot for a minimally-planned vacation—mostly because malagueños are fiercely proud of their culture, whether it’s the local wine or music, and are ready to tell anyone who asks just what they should be doing. But we spoke to Devour Spain co-founder James Blick about a few things you shouldn’t miss.
After spending the day seeing some of Malaga’s sights (the Picasso museum and the beach are good places to start), get a late-afternoon ticket to the Alcazaba and the adjoining Castillo de Gibralfaro. The Alcazaba is a Hammudid fort, first constructed in the 11th century, featuring serene gardens and original tilework and carvings. There’s a small bar at the top to enjoy a glass of wine or beer at sunset, or you can hike further up to the Castillo de Gibralfaro, a fort built in the 14th century, for a breathtaking view of the city and its surroundings.
“Malaga is probably most famous as the home of sweet Malaga wine—a wine that is made from local grapes that are left in the sun to shrivel and make a wine that is usually, but not always sweet,” says Blick. And though it’s fallen out of favor internationally, that just means it’s due for a comeback. A glass of the stuff is best enjoyed at Antigua Casa de Guardia, the oldest wine bar in the city, where Malaga, sherry and other fortified wines are poured by the glass (about 1.20) out of massive barrels lining the walls. Be prepared to sample every one.
It wouldn’t be a trip to spain without jamón, and Malaga has many options for enjoying this delicacy—conveniently, most of them are grouped around Plaza del Siglo. Dbandera doubles as a market if you want your ham to-go, or you can sit on their second floor and get a view of the Malaga Cathedral, nicknamed the “One Armed Lady,” as its south tower never got finished.
Malagueños are also known as “boquerones,” due to how much they love their anchovies. “A gastronomic highlight are the 'espetos’, sardines that are skewered onto sticks and cooked over the embers of an open fire on the beach,” says Blick, but at night you can get your fish fried at every tapas bar in town.
Meson Mariano has been cooking traditional Malagueno food since the 1970s, and his boquerones are as crispy and savory as you’ll find in the city. You can get a table at the bar for tapas and drinks, but dinner will allow you to enjoy the full breadth of Mariano’s incredible menu, including Cod Malaga (cooked with dates and onions), flamenquin (a local fried roll of pork and cheese), and “la reina de la casa,” artichokes cooked nearly any way you want them.
Though it has its history, Malaga is not a city stuck in the past. Locals and tourists alike like to Go Out here. (You are in Spain, after all, and also at the beach, which means if you’re in bed before 4 AM you’re either a cop or a member of the AARP.) There is a cluster of bars around Calle de Luis Vazquez offering cheap copas and a young clientele that spills into the streets. Or you can go dancing at Chiquita Cruz, where you can sip an incredibly good mojito while a DJ’s assistant leads the dance floor in routines that are sort of a cross between Zumba and Salsa. Trust us, it’s fun.