This is the Tudor we didn't know we needed – but it's pretty damn close to perfect.
If this is the year of the GMT from the now-all-of-a-sudden-one-cohesive-unit Rolex/Tudor family, then it'd be easy to miss what could be the coolest introduction of the show, at least for a vintage watch lover. Sure, both GMTs (see CB talk Rolex here and SJPeezy talk Tudor here) are great watches, and now the group can say "hey, we own the GMT category from $3k to $35k," and even further, you get the infamous "Pepsi" bezel on both, but they both have modern proportions. And that's cool, because we live in modern times, but some of us would prefer if we didn't. Enter the Black Bay Fifty-Eight.
Let's be clear. The original Black Bay is an amazing watch. So are all those variations that sprang from it – the blue, black, two-tone, in-house, and...out-house(?) all have their own followings. But there is no doubt about it: It's a bigger, thicker watch. It's not bad in any way, but if Tudor wanted to do something that was super vintage-y, it had to be thinner and smaller, and now it is. Dropping down from 41mm in diameter and 14.75mm thick, the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight is 39mm in diameter (smaller than a modern Sub!) and just 11.9mm top to bottom. This matters. A lot.
On the wrist, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight is simply superior to most other sports watches within the Rolex family, save perhaps the Explorer I or the Daytona. It is svelte and subtle, and the proper design elements have been brought into this watch to make it true to its roots. We have a rivet style bracelet, lovely matte finishing on the case (with nice wide bevels), a matte dial with gilt finishing, a date-less dial configuration, and a crown stem without any coloring. It is simple and pure and awesome.
In order for this watch to be made, Tudor had to produce a new, smaller, thinner caliber – the MT5402 – which is a movement just 26mm in diameter. The normal Black Bay uses a 31.8mm diameter caliber, for reference. The MT5402 is manufactured in-house and provides a 70-hour power reserve while using a silicon balance spring. Did I mention this guy is 200m water resistant and costs $3,575 on bracelet, less on strap? Right. It's simply impossible to argue with.
The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Fifty-Eight will be available from July 2018. For more, click here.