Newberry's Delight is a relatively easy route per Black Canyon standards route located down the cruise gully on the North Rim of the Black Canyon. Although rated as 5.9, it is much more sustained than Maiden Voyage or Casually off the Route, which are also 5.9.
Newberry's Delight as the name suggest is named after Black Canyon veteran Jimmy Newberry.
First Ascent: Jimmy Newberry and Les Choy in 1978.
The route is located on Newberry's slab area, a nice formation below Checkboard Wall. The route does not top out at the rim, but below the Checkerboard Wall, and can be nicely combined with the other routes above. We linked it up with Maiden Voyage and King Me. This link up gave us a lovely day of climbing, 9 long pitches (we used 70 meter rope).
The original route ascended the 5.7 ramp on the right side into a chimney, but now most parties climb the beautiful 5.9 hands to fists crack, which is great pitch and the most difficult one as well.
The route is in the shade in the morning and gets sunny in the afternoon. Summer can be brutally hot on the black walls of the Black Canyon, plan your climbing adventure accordingly. Our link up with Maiden Voyage and King Me asked for an early start in order to complete all three climbs in the shade. We started at 7 and were able to chase the shade for our whole adventure.
All climbs are within the designated Wilderness Area of the Park's Inner-Canyon and you will need to obtain a free backcountry permit at the North Rim Ranger Station. There is a self-registration materials out front for after hours check in. An extensive "climbers notebook" is kept at both the North Rim Ranger Station. You can copy the descriptions and topos if parking rangers are around.
Note there is no road that links the rims within the National Park - you have to drive around. It is more than 70 miles. Most visitors visit the more accessible and touristy South Rim.
To reach base of the Newberry Delight climb, you need to descent via Cruise Gully. The best place to park is either Ranger Station, or the entry to the campground. I prefer the ranger station since I can walk down hill on the way back. Look for a well established path on your left (south side) that leads into the trees. Once you enter the trail, there is a sign Cruise gully and reminder that you need a back country permit to descend down into the canyon. The trail is located about 50 yards past the SOB trailhead and on the opposite site, and 100 yards up from the ranger station.
Start of the Climb: follow the Cruise Gully to long, right angling ramp on the upper part of Newberry's slab formation. It was easy to spot. Go up the ramp, overgrown with vegetation, but not exposed. Look for the splitter 5.9 crack in a v-shaped formation going higher up into a chimney.
Route finding using topo and description from the new guidebook: The Black: A comprehensive climbing guide to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park by Vic Zeilman was relatively easy and obvious.
Pitch 3 and 4 can be combined with 70 meter rope, expect rope drag. Climb the 5.7 finger/hand crack to easier slab above, trend left up to another large ledge, move on easier terrain here. There is a short hand crack, steep, which brings you to the top of Newberry's slab formation.
Walk Off: Enjoy the view from Newberry's Slab area. You will have to drop down to reach the base of Checkerboard Wall. Scramble down class 3/4 along a rib of rock into thick brush and walk uphill to Checkerboard Buttress. I could sense that someone has already traveled there, but there was no established trail. The guide book says it takes 10 min from the Newberry's Slab formation to Checkerboard Wall, we did not time it, but it seemed like a long 10 min. Luckily, there was no poison ivy between these 2 (there is down when one is descending Cruise gully).
Remember there is not a true walk off from this route. You are below static lines in the Cruise Gully and you do have to climb some other route to get out.
Standard rack up to camalot #4 (we usually carry doubles for 0.5,0.75, 1,2, and 3). Plenty of long slings. Anchor material.