Totally endorse that about the High Density Reaper paints I purchased from Brett. The best I have used for virtually all applications including on some plastic based vehicles as well as wood and castings.
You do Reaper what you sow.
Ken...do I understand correctly from a previous post that you begin the coloring, dry brushing, etc on a group of boards but you do individual weathering i.e the less weathering under the eaves on individual boards just prior to placing them...seems like you said this really slows the process down but you're better able to get the look you want.
Right, I grain the wood then stain followed by the damp brushing on all the wood. I then take each individual board and do the final detailing such as splits, board end joints, knot holes, damage, rot, etc. and glue to the template. Takes a bit longer but I have complete control over what type of detail I get, where I put it, and how it blends with the wood already glued down...The issue of the less worn paint under the eaves is a bit different. I finished the wall and then went back and slowly built up paint with damp brushing along the gable edge followed by a light wire brushing. Otherwise its hard to do by just selcting individual boards.
This attention to detail, of where the weathering would be more or less, is superbly done.
Placing and detailing individual boards, is what moves a great model into the 'incredible' model realm.... it's a thought process that comes easily once you get started.
Yes it takes a little longer as Ken says, but not much.... and just look at the difference it makes in that last picture posted.
The subtleties in the weathering, the specifics that Ken does so well, just another weathered wall, until you look closer, notice all that specific shading, and then, you see the realism and realise why it looks so good.
A great start to what looks like it will be another fantastic build.
Great weathering. Sure shows up well when you take the time to do the detail part.
Totally agree with Karl.A & Jerry. A pleasure to look at.
I am studying your first wall and I notice very realistic looking rot/wear on the board ends below the doorway. Do you jam the individual boards into a stiff wire brush to get that effect? Do you carve it out with a knife?
So it looks like I picked the right time to check in!
I love the appearance of your walls Ken. That Boxcar Red is such an ugly color out of the bottle. But it's perfect for delivering a "weathered" base hue right off the bat. I hadn't considered adding Ruddy Brown into the color layer but it adds a nice pop of distress and age.
Going back a page, I sure appreciate the tip on spraying the chip board a flat black!
I'm probably not the only one who lays up the boards only to have to go back and squeeze in a tiny brush with black paint into the cracks to hide the brown chip board that shows through!
Joel, nice hearing from you and appreciate the vote of confidence!
Thanks Jerry...I can't seem to model wood siding without the grunge factor...!
From one wall enthusiast to another Robert...thanks.
After I do a generic wire brushing to grain the wood, I stain, then damp brush with the color on all the wood. I then randomly select a piece and begin the final detailing board by board. The ends you are referring to...I first sand the end so it's not square, then I use my #11 blade and makes various cuts and gouges. I also will shave a bit of wood with the blade at a very low angle. Once this is done I hit it again with the wire brush just on the end. This is followed with more stain or AI to darken the ends as they would be if naturally weathered. This is a converted BlackSmith Shop so grunge is the order of the day!
Very nice thing to say Muddy...thanks much.
Must be doing something right if I'm able to pull Bill off the water long enough to take a peek! What's up buddy? Right, Brett's color choices are always spot on...and the mixing of the Boxcar Red and Ruddy Brown (SWSM/Reaper Paint) looks fabulous. The "red" can sometimes lean towards pink if you work it wrong or choose the wrong "red"...however, this combo came out just perfect for my taste.
Chipboard sprayed flat black...straight from Brett's manual...and not only can you not see anything below the cracks, I like to bush in some dry chalk here and there to represent dirt and crud that has settled in some of the cracks and crevices.
Some of the best walls you have ever done.
Thanks much Ed appreciate that.
Paying attention and taking notes. A flying start Ken, even though you are deliberate and thorough. I'll get on this but probably not until after the National Narrow Gauge Convention. In the meantime vicarious enjoyment watching you have at it.
No disappointment here Doc Grunge, wonderful modeling!
Thanks Brett, I do worry about being a bit slow and folks thinking I just putter around! Another update with the finished Pattern Shop walls is due in this weekend. The manual is a wonderful read and so comprehensive. Folks, this kit is amazing...getting into this build for sure!
As usual Ken is off to a flying start. I need all the help and hints on wood grain that I can find, and this site is full of masters! The walls are already full of detail...looking good.
great start, just watching from the sidelines, can't wait to get this kit and work on another Bret master build.
Plenty of time to catch up Bill. This weekends post I will highlight some additional wood detailing as I finish up the Pattern Shop walls. Thanks much for your support here.
Nice to have you checking in JP....., Brett's kits are phenomenal and a pure joy to build, like I'm telling you something you don't already know right! Appreciate the note.
Im just catching up and loving it so far. That red faded paint came out beautifully. Looking forward to more.
Wes, my good man...nice to hear from you. Thanks and just putting the last wall of the Pattern Shop finishing touches on and will be ready to post tomorrow.
The basic four walls of the Pattern Shop are completed. I paid particular attention to the wood detailing and am modeling the Pattern Shop as an older structure showing its age gracefully.
The Front Wall with the unsided area being covered by the ajoining Workshop. Note the missing and rotted siding in the corner. This will be more subtle once scenic and other details are added.
This is the left wall with the cut out for the interior mounted sliding freight door. Keep in mind when reviewing the wood end detail that the bottom of almost all the walls are not visible due to concrete and wood docks, so this area was not highly detailed.
The right wall with the cut out for the wonderfully detailed laser cut roll up door. Leave it to Brett to develope such an awesome piece!
And finally for the sake of being complete in one post, the rear door featured previously. The cut out here is for the cool split rear doors.
Note in this image the knot hole in the center of the picture. The knot itself was purposely not made round but rather oblong with the wood cut around it in a tear drop fashion.
Here is the wood detailing where I installed a wood framed header into the chipboard template so the spaces behind the wood show the studs and open space.
I included this picture to illustrate an important detail. The stripwood is grained, stained, wire brushed, and damp brushed with color randomly. The wood is cut into rough lengths and choosen at random...then I begin to detail each pice of wood keeping in mind where it will go and what kind of look I want...nothing random here on out. The picture illustrates this by showing collateral wood damage and in this case wood rot and insect damage. Notice how the damaged area carries over to the piece beside it...all planned out carefully...Oh and the scraped and dinged wood along the edge of the freight door is because its along the edge of the freight doors!