This is the basic pattern of bodice block and sleeve block. Using this you can design any style of garment you like.
Fold a sheet of paper and mark A on the fold as shown in the figure 1. Mark points D, G and J on the fold line as explained below.
Mark point J such that A-J =hip length +2” to 3”. A-J can be increased according to the taste or according to the style of the dress. This will be full length of the garment.
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, G and J. to the line A-J.
On the perpendicular at A. mark point B such that A-B=¼ chest +1½”.
On the same line mark point C such that A-C=½ shoulder +¼”. This is shoulder line.
points M and N by a curved line M-N is back neck line..
On the same line A-J mark point O such that A-O= ⅛ chest or to taste. This is front neck depth.
Join point M-O by a curved line. This is front neck line.
From the point B drop a perpendicular B-K to the line to the line A-B, such that B-K =A-J.
From the point D draw a perpendicular. Let this line meet the line B-K at the point F. A-B =B-F .This is chest line.
From the point G draw a perpendicular, let this line meet the line B-K at a point H .On the line G-H mark point I such that I-H=¾”.G-I is the waist line.
On the chest line mark point E such that A-C =D-E.
Join C-E. On this line mark point Q such that C-Q=1”.Join M-Q.
On the line C-E mark Point P such that E-P= ¾” or 1”Join the points Q-E and Q-P-F as shown in the figure. Q-P-F is front armhole curve and Q-F is back armhole curve.
On the line G-I, mark point R such that G-R =⅟₁₂ chest + ½”. Draw perpendicular lines on R-S and R-S’ from the point R, perpendicular to the line G-I on either side. R-S=R-S’=⅙ chest. At the point R a dart of ¾” is taken on either side.
added ½” for seams. While cutting the fabric you can increase this by ¾ “by drawing another line parallel to and ¾” away from the original side seam line. It is better to keep more seam width in case you want to loosen the garment. On the line I-L mark L’ such that L-L’ =¾”.Join J-L’ by a smooth curve .This is the bottom seam line of the garment.
Cut along the back neck line N-M→ shoulder line M-Q→ back armhole curve Q-F → side F-I-L’ → bottom hem line L’J.
Separate the two layers of sheet by cutting along the line N-O-D-G-J. Keep one layer on which there is no marking aside. This is the draft of the bodice back.
On the other layer cut along the front neck line M-O and front armhole curve C-E-F. This is the draft of the bodice front.
Fold a sheet of paper and mark point A, 2 “away from the edge of the paper. Mark point B on the fold such that A-B = sleeve length +¼”.
From point B draw a perpendicular B-C whose length =⅛chest + 2½”( Please note that this is equal to the scye depth of the bodice) From point A draw a perpendicular line A-D such that A-D = B-C.Join D-C.
On D-C mark point E such that E-C =⅛chest.
On the line B-C Mark point F such that B-F =1”.
H is the middle point of E-F.H-I is perpendicular to H-F and its length is equal to ¾”.
From the point E draw a perpendicular line E-G whose length is equal to 2”Join F-E by a smooth curved line as shown in the figure. This is front armhole curve of the sleeve.
Join F-I-E as shown in the figure 3 by a smooth curve. This is back armhole curve of the sleeve.
On the line A-D mark point L such that A-L equal to half sleeve round +1”.
Join L-This is the side line of the sleeve.
Produce Line B-A to J such that A-J =1¼”. From the point J draw a line parallel to A-D.
Draw a line K-L as shown in the figure 3.
This gives a nice finish while folding and sewing sleeve edge.
Cut along the lines B-F-I-E → E-L → L-K → K-J. Open the fold and cut front armhole curve.This is the draft of the sleeve.
In this draft I have added ½” for seams. While cutting the fabric you can increase this by ¾ “by drawing another line parallel to and ¾” away from the original side seam line. It is better to keep more seam width in case you want to loosen the garment.