John, the head length in the Magnum is 35 ft for a 5 weight vs 33.5 for the Titan, only a 4% difference but the weight, is 150 grains vs. 185 grains, a 23% difference. I can tell you which will have a greater impact on my fishing.
So on one of my favorite smallie fly rods which I built some time back, I've been using either a Rio Clouser 6 wt. line or a Scientific Anglers Head Start 6 weight line. Because both lines perform decently on that rod but will be in need of replacement soon. I measured them on my grain scale and sure enough both come in about 175 grains for the first 30 feet of line or about a 1/2 weight higher than AFTMA 6 wt. standards. Now my rod is advertised as a fast 5 wt. rod but you couldn't get that thing to load with 5 wt. line unless you had the whole spool aerialized, hence why I over line it with a 6 wt. line, actually a 6 1/2 wt. line. Bear with me here, so now I begin looking at "bass" lines that I might purchase and looked at a SA Mastery Titan line which I was told is the latest and greatest bass taper and lo and behold, it is weighted 2 full line weights higher than standard for each weight, soooo if I were to use a 6 weight for my rod as I've always done, I would be over lining by 3 line weights or in other words would be using an 8 wt. line on a 5 wt. rod. That's crazy ! Now the very same company's Frequency Magnum line which they also advertise for throwing large streamers for bass is only over weighted by a 1/2 line weight above standard. Line weight and fly rod weight designation has become silly, why have standards if no one is going to abide by them. So no longer can you say, just over line your rod by one and you'll be happy. Even for people that are more knowledgeable, you have to do your due diligence but to a novice, they would have no clue. OK, I feel so much better now, thank you for your patience and now back to our regularly scheduled programming.
After reading thru several of his articles, I don't think I would enjoy it as he does, since he is willing to chuck very heavily weighted jigs (1/8 oz) and streamers in order to make it work. I personally don't enjoy that type of casting all day and often need greater distances than what he achieves. But he has some valid points and if someone enjoys it, I say go for it.
Thanks Phil for bring this to our (my) attention. Had not seen this before. Lots to read on that site.
I already know not to crowd the eye of hook with materials but I do it all too often anyway .........and now you want me to leave even more space in front of the eye ?...........ha, little chance of that happening, as that would require skills and discipline.
The guy must be moonlighting because I'm pretty sure this fellow played in Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band if I remember correctly.
Now that's a BEAST !
Mark, I met Gary 10 years ago over at Indy and we bought for our central Illinois fly tiers both sets of his cutters. They work great and are a lot of fun. We often have them at our fly tying gatherings for people to use.
Maybe I should have posted this in the "Conservation forums"
Mike, I use the pre sticky eyes that Bass Pro sells in the lure building supplies such as where spinner blades, beads, and lake trout/walleye rigging are sold. Do NOT buy them in the fly tying materials area, they are much cheaper for the non-fly guys (of course). Peel off an eye and lay it face down. Now take your bodkin and lay it flat on the table where the point is midway across the eye, just below center. Use Loc Tite super gel glue and place one tiny tiny dot in center. Don't place a large drop, it takes so little to attach and too much will seep out under the eye and make a mess. Now pick up the bodkin which the eye is temporarily attached to , and rotate the eye over face up, place it on your fly where desired, and apply light pressure with finger, pencil eraser end, etc. and pull your bodkin out from underneath. Voila, perfectly placed eye with no mess. Again, the gel vs. regular super glue makes a huge difference because it stays where you put it and won't run. Btw, the gel also takes just a second or two longer to set up on foam which gives you a moment longer to perfectly place your foam popper on the shank of the hook.
Mark, I like those. Is that round cylinder foam cut at an angle in the back? How is the foam mounted on the hook shank, is there a slit in the bottom? What size and hook please?
OK, John, it's back in black and with rubber legs, a tuft of rabbit hair, antron fibers in the dubbed body, a little hackle and peacock herl antennae, there's a whole lotta shakin' going on.
It doesn't take a genius to determine it's not ideal for that particular environment. And may I be honest when I say that I hate it when an individual seeks financial gain at the expense of my recreation and/or hobby.