This is likely old news to the masters, so I figured I put this in the apprentice cutter forum.
It's a simple and there fore fast sleeve construction, based on the Rundschau system. It has no seam allowances included.
All you need are 3 basic measurements, 2 of the final armhole, plus the sleeve length.
You start with a square at point 1, measuring the sleeve length down to point 2 and the scye diameter + 5 to 6cm (and up to 7cm, amount depends mostly on the fabric. Softer fabrics allow for more width) to point 3.
Square points 2 and 4 to the right (point and down from 3. From 3 measure 5 to 6cm down (point 7).
From point 2 measure 2 or 3cm up (I personally prefer 2cm) to get point 5.
Point 6 is ½ of 4 to 5 minus 1cm. Square to right to get point 9.
From point 5 measure ½ of your desired hand width to get point 10 on the sleeve length line.
Mark Äe (front sleeve pitch), measuring from point 4 upwards. The amount is 0,5cm less than the distance of scye depth line to the Äe in the front armhole.
From 3 to 11 is ½ of 3 to 1 plus 1cm. Square down to get point 12. From 12 mark 1 to 2cm to the left for point 13.
Point 14 is 4cm from 7. Connect 14 and 13.
6 to 6a is 1,5 to 2 cm. For the CF of the sleeve connect Äe, 6a and 5.
Mark ½ of 1 to 11 and connect with Äe, mark ½ of that line and connect with 11.
Also connect points 9 and 10, 9a and 10.
Depending on your taste and the cloth's pattern you might like to use it as a basis for a 50/50 sleeve.
Sadly none of my programs allows to draw curves, but simply shape the sleeve crown to get a final shape. You can also move the sleeve's CF line to hide the seam a bit. To do so just move the seam line of the under sleeve to the right, parallel to the CF line. Do the same with the upper sleeve to the left.
For the sleeve in the following pictures I used the wider measurements, which got me a sleeve with quite a bit of roping, due to the width and length in the crown.
Unless you like this effect (and you use a soft fabric), my advice would be to use the measurements given in the diagram. Those should make this method of construction more applicable for most of the regular fabrics.
In this rear shot you can see how much width is in the crown. This makes the sleeve a quite comfortable one with a bigger range of movement.
Also, while this method works fine with "decently" cut armholes, it may not give satisfying results when used for RTW coats with weirdly shaped armholes (deep and narrow). Without further corrections of the coat's armhole the crown will be very pointy and hard to set in.
Does this work best with flower pattern cloths? Still waiting for the package, you know.
If you come back for a visit SG you HAVE to wear this!
By the way, great tutorial on sleeves.
The coat is German size 50 (that is 100cm chest girth) and therefore a little bit too tight in certain areas. The only fusing I used is for the bridle, neck and armhole. There is no sense in cutting a (more or less) precise sleeve and then stretch and ruin the armhole by stretching it when setting a sleeve.
I do think, though, that one could wear this in certain regions of the western hemisphere without being laughed at, even in the US.
In the UK it may pass as "eccentric"! Blue shirt, regimental tie and some twill trousers and one would be good to go.
What matters most is the fact that this method actually works quite well. It took me about 6 hours to prepare the post, but only 30 minutes to draft, cut and set the sleeve(s)!
only 30 minutes to draft, cut and set the sleeve(s)!
I think I need to visit you... Would you take a sleeve apprentice ?
That's 30 minutes for a sleeve I cut according to my requirements. Back at work it takes me ages to get a sleeve back in.
Both our makers of MTM cut weird sleeves, each at the opposite end of the "sleeve spectrum". We often have to take the upper part of the sleeve apart to get it back in. But once the sleeve's cut/shape is ruined it's even harder.
This draft I showed is very fast to do, like 10 minutes (even with the details like vents and such). It mostly depends on the cutters experience how much he/she adds to the basic measurements (scye width plus 5 to 7cm). In either case you should get a decent sleeve you can work with.
Maybe we can use it instead of ?
wow what a scye? Seriously D you need to go into business for yourself or hurry and move to Italia and work. Are my eyes decieving me or is the collar a little wonky as well?
As you can see from the chalk lines, the whole coat wasn't top notch in the fitting well sector.
Please try this method for yourself (next time you cut a coat, that is) and let me know if it worked.
Hey SG, is that armhole for a grown-on sleeve?
I did not trust my eyes!!! How does a sleeve look, which will go into that armhole! It would be nice if you are able to let us see how the pattern looks you came up to.
I could climb through that armhole.