Honda 09-up CRF450R 7/8" and 1.6" lowering lengths available.
Also Fits The New 06-up KLX250H6F Dual Sport.
Fits: 2012-up two strokes with the linkage style suspension.
KTM/CRF/DRZ/KXF/ RMF/WR/YZF and now for the Kawasaki KLR650/KLX250 dual sport. Honda CRF230/XR250/400/600 and TRX450 Four Wheeler.
1) Raise the motorcycle with a bike stand, milk crate, etc., so the rear wheel is slightly off the ground. Remove the brake pedal return spring and the pinch bolt holding the brake pedal pivot shaft into frame mount. Then remove the brake pedal to allow the front link mounting bolt to come out the right side. Remove the 17 mm nuts from the two link mounting bolts (14 mm heads) and push the front one out the right side and the rear one out the left side. The swingarm may need to be raised slightly to allow the bolts to slide out freely. After removing these two bolts the link will drop out the bottom and your about ready to install the new KoubaLink.
2) The KoubaLink comes with the bearings and seals, so put a little grease inside the two needle bearings first, and then install the "center sleeve" from your old OEM link into the new link. Be sure the center sleeve from your stock link is clean and greased the full length. You are now ready to install the new link by holding it back in place with the bearing end forward and the engraving readable from the right side. After aligning the link eyes with the link mounts, push the mounting bolts back through. You will need to raise the swingarm to get the eyes to line up. Front bolt goes in from the right side and the rear bolt goes in from the left side.
3) After installing the KoubaLink, be sure the grease fitting is facing back and slightly down. *Left side engraving will be upside down. You may want to pump a little grease into that grease fitting now before you torque the mounting bolt nuts as sometimes after tightening the nuts the air will not escape from the bearings and is difficult to get the grease in. Install the 17 mm nuts and torque to approx. 35 lb-ft. *NOTE: Always loosen and tighten the nut, and not the head of the bolt.
4) For the 1.75" laden rear lowering, set the "race sag" (amount of vertical movement of the rear axle FROM no weight to bike weight plus rider weight) at 3.0" with rider in full riding gear, standing on the pegs. This sag adjustment can be changed by turning the two large nuts on top of the rear spring. (More preload = less sag, and less preload = more sag. Turning the spring preload nuts clockwise will increase the preload and visa versa.) The easiest way we have found to change the preload adjustment is to loosen the top jam nut, lube the threads on the shock and turn the spring and all by grasping the bottom of the spring. It will turn easier if the rear wheel is off the ground.
5) The front fork tubes can be slid up in the triple clamps until they almost touch the under side of the handle bars. We do not recommend over 3/4" of the fork tubes showing above the top triple clamp not counting the thickness of the fork caps. If the front pushes or will not turn quick enough we recommend lessening the rear sag rather than sliding the fork tubes up farther than the 3/4" showing.