Keeping the dust and grime off my body, out of my nails, hair and lungs was a daily struggle. Then there was the mosquitoes, which arrived in swarms at sundown and often came bearing malaria.
You arrive with grand plans and soon you are merely surviving. At a time when so many brilliant Indians — and perhaps particularly the hyper-educated Bengalis — are leaving India to find employment abroad, Choudhury, born in Buffalo and brought up in New Jersey, headed in the opposite direction, to the place he thinks of as his real home.
Calcutta felt like a place whose greatest days had passed: With the sahibs gone, our best days were done. But Choudhury finds the city still has ample compensations.
In modern Delhi, he writes, no one really belongs, but in Calcutta, everyone is fiercely possessive of their city: They may offer radically different views on the subject, a street fight may break out, rival political camps may emerge and traffic be barricaded the rest of the afternoon.
But it is their city, their streets, their neighbourhood. In Calcutta, Durba and I felt like actors who had wandered off the set of an indie romantic comedy and on to an instructional video for the Taliban.
There is also a lot about the great landmarks of the Bengali year such as the great city festival of Durga puja, and the wonders of Bengali cooking: Very occasionally, Choudhury can fall short as a guide to the deeply eccentric city he loves so much and he is notably rusty on his history and architecture.
The Victoria memorial is not Indo-Saracenic, as he says, so much as a sort of Romano-Mughal, and Calcutta was the largest port in India long before the s.
This is overwhelmingly a book about Bengalis and I longed for more on the remarkable minorities who played such a role in the building of the city and who still, just, cling on in their own enclaves today — the Armenians, the Jews, the Chinese, the Anglo-Indians and particularly the Marwaris.
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