This is Cohn's reserve-style Chardonnay and it's easily their best since the 1990s. Made from two vineyards in the cool Carneros district of Sonoma, it's ripe in pineapple and green apple flavors enhanced with the toast of oak, the creaminess of lees and the buttery softness of malolactic fermentation. Easy to drink with opulent fare such as crab. - S.H.