so, compression test should yield what numbers?
Did you already replace the "accordion" style hose from the air cleaner to the intake manifold ? I would def replace that before throwing other parts at your car.
Try putting your car in neutral and blipping the throttle. As the engine rocks, the split in the hose will open and close, letting in un-metered air, and make your car stumble and run like crap...if the hose is the issue !
Last edited by Rit; 12-18-2018 at 04:33 AM.
Personally, I would think that a bad fuel pump would be more likely to cause a problem on your highway drive when you need more fuel, than when you are idling. I would hold off on the fuel pump. Try going up a long hill. A bad fuel pump will make your car stumble as it gets starved for fuel.
Your car won't won't run right till you fix that boot.
Why on earth would you replace a fuel pump on a car which shows evidence of having more fuel than it needs.
Please explain your rational..... ???
ironically, my mechanic did mention a small split in the boot. i shrugged it off because i just replaced it 7 months ago!!!! the clamps i'll check cause he probably took those damn things off so many times lately that that caused a split in the boot. still have to clean the air filter as well, been busy.
Wow ! This is almost funny. Sad, though.
How many of us said Air Leaks by now?
One can lead a horse to water. But we can't make it think.
so, replaced the fpr today, it helped because i smell no more gas out of the vents or under the hood. got a code p0505, iacv, touched the terminals together and still there after we reconnected the battery. started the car, took it around the block, got on the highway and she ran great until she warmed up and i got off and she stalled at the light. so, all the symptoms lead to a fuel pump which is next. and the last thing i will do to this car. this doesn't fix it i quit.
It is stalling at the light due to an air leak. Probably through that cracked boot.
​​​​​​The fuel pump appears to provide enough fuel for the car in normal service, right?
Someone won't have much work to do to finish this project once you bail on it.
the boot is not cracked, he was mistaken. and no, the car has a hard time starting, will stumble upon acceleration after its warmed up, and stalls frequently although not as much as before i replaced the fpr. i'm thinking about the fuel filter and the code i got for the iacv which i can't erase. i'm leaning more on the iacv, but there could be a clog in the filter.
Does the car have a hard time starting on cold starts, warm starts, or both?
You can get one of those accordion pieces for $10-15 bucks.
after it warms up, occasionally cold starts as well, but not near as much.
Take the old one off, and stretch it to look for cracks. They are hard to find. Or, flex it yourself manually with the car idling.
Let's face it - "We're" not going to be happy til you replace it, so spend the $10-15 so we can put that idea to bed !
Driving fine on highway but stalling at lights, and hard starts when warm points to a faulty IACV. Give it a check for leaks, voltage reading, and connections. When my IACV/AAC solenoid failed my max had the same 2 issues.
If it is a faulty IACV send me a PM. I have 3 collecting dust along with a new gasket for it.
Last edited by jholley; 12-19-2018 at 08:02 PM.
Last edited by max ride 41; 12-19-2018 at 11:30 PM.
How's the adjustment on the TPS?
don't know, it's original though. i figured i got a code for the iacv and can't clear it so more than likely it's that? what will it do if it's not working right? i'll still take you up on the offer for that iacv man, the first one was dead out of the box, now this one's throwing a code.
I had a stumbling issue with my '99 and it ended up being the crankshaft position sensor. Was *highly* intermittent until the sensor failed and then the car wouldn't start. No sending unit on that sensor so no DTC.
I'm not sure you have the same issue, but I spent several weeks hunting it down until I had to leave on extended business and just had the car towed. I have my fun little story in that thread.
no man, that's been done and my max is a 95. tps sounds more legit, throwing no code though, damnit!!! i heard they sometimes don"t, anyone to verify this?
... i heard they sometimes don"t, anyone to verify this?
As a preventative/rule-it-out measure, I'd at least check it's adjustment. The procedure is in the FSM. It's not a big deal.
Why are compression test numbers so high?
Will a citation for "failure to yield" raise up insurance premium?
Quick Reply: so, compression test should yield what numbers?