The col discovered by Longstaff in 1905 seemed less suitable than one further south, spotted by Hugh Ruttledge in 1932. However they were distracted by Trisul East (now called Maiktoli, ) which looked technically straightforward so, while Tilman continued surveying with Pasang, the other three made the first ascent of the peak in conditions, according to Shipton, almost up to Everest standards. The three men had to share a two-man tent so, at night, when one turned they all had to. The Sherpas found this tremendously funny - Shipton less so. On their return, Shipton and Tilman explored a subsidiary ridge to the south ridge of Nanda Devi itself merely thinking it might provide a good view of the southern Sanctuary. At they had to turn back but they had decided that this ridge gave a good chance of reaching the summit for a suitably prepared expedition. On 17 September the entire party started the climb to Ruttledge's col to look down the precipice and icefall to the Sunderdhunga Glacier. It took two days to discover a route down the precipice and Ang Tharkay was the person who found the way that was at last successful. Descending the valley they reached the Pindar River. At last reaching Sameswar they were able to board a bus to Ranikhet and they went their separate ways at Bareilly with Shipton writing his book Nanda Devi on his six-week voyage home.