TST: Check pytables<3.5.1 when skipping
`3.5.1` was made available on `conda`, causing `xfail_non_writeable` tests to fail.

Note that this is just to get `master` to pass again (started failing when #25751 was merged).

This new release of `pytables`, however, brings up the question of how we want to proceed with #24839, as it appears that all of our CI builds that install `pytables` will use this version now.

It seems a little early to declare that `3.5.1` is our minimum version, but it definitely looks like we *could* drop this `xfail` from our tests at some point in the near future.