 Jean Patou, who had first raised hemlines to 18" off the floor with his "flapper" dresses of 1924, had begun lowering them again in 1927, using Vionnet's handkerchief hemline to disguise the change.By 1930, longer skirts and natural waists were shown everywhere.But it is Schiaparelli who is credited with "changing the outline of fashion from soft to hard, from vague to definite."