Variations: The American drape suit versus the British drape suit The main difference between American and British version of the drape suit was in the treatment of the sleeve-head at the shoulderline. The American version had a “smooth roll of sleeve fabric where it was stitched into the armscye” whereas the English version had “tiny puckers from stitch tucks”. In addition, the American drape suit has a very tapered waist that helps to exaggerate the bulk in the chest and shoulders, and causes the skirt line to appear flared (Gentleman's Gazette, par. 5). In comparison, the English version has a less tapered waist with a straight skirt line. The drape suit in the mid-20th century By the mid-1930s, “two subtle changes added a touch of modernity to the athletic suit style”. The first modification was the alteration of the peaked lapel, which became wider and angled more upwards. This added more fullness and width to the ‘masculine’ chest. The second modification was the alteration of the sleeve armholes to become more narrow and raised. This added more fullness and width for a ‘masculine’ impact in the broadness of the shoulders and narrow waist. The drape suit remained popular during World War II, being a familiar and stable piece during uncertain times. A man's shoulders remained broad, fluid and natural; his chest appeared full and muscular “with the deeply rolled lapels”; “his waist and hips were made trim with the raised coat waistline and ventless skirt”. In the 1950s, men's fashions followed the trend of women's. With Christian Dior's New Look for women, came the Bold Look and Continental Cut for men. The Bold Look was the continuation of the English drape cut with greater emphasis on the coordination of the suit with its accessories and shirt. It continued to have broad shoulders with a slightly nipped in waist and a double-breasted suit jacket. This cut was anchored in the WWII version, without the war restrictions. The late 20th century In the 1974 film, The Great Gatsby, the drape suit of the 1920s and 1930s was revisited. The suit was modernized with the use of synthetic fabrics and a more modern construction. Recently, Michael Anton, author of The Suit, has advocated for the return of the drape suit. The American Zoot suit is an extreme exaggeration of excess fabric. Although the drape suit and the sack suit are similar, they are