bented with whals bone and covered with riben." Another account from Jones, for the queen's dwarf Tomasen in 1597, includes a "paier of verthingale slevis of fustian." Jones made many pairs of farthingale sleeves in the 1580s, perhaps for the women of Elizabeth's court. Such sleeves were worn by women outside court circles. Anne Williamson of Wilne in Derbyshire (a granddaughter of Lord Mordaunt), wrote in December 1590 to her husband about a London tailor who was making her "a pair of verdingale sleeves & a French verdingale". A Welsh MP William Maurice asked a Shrewsbury tailor to provide a French bodice with farthingale sleeves for his young daughter or cousin in 1594. In 1607 there were discussions about taxing imported whale fin baleen, "used only in sleeves and bodies for women". A surviving single English farthingale sleeve with its whalebone hoops and an outer silk sleeve was rediscovered in 2022. These items are possibly connected with the Willoughby family of Wollaton Hall, and were shown on the television program, Antiques Roadshow. Farthingale pins The wardrobe accounts of Queen Elizabeth mention the purchase of thousands of special "great verthingale pynnes", "myddle verthingale pynnes" and "smale verthingale pynnes" from 1563. These were probably used for pinning deep tucks in fathingales to hold whalebone supports, and to position heavy silk skirts in place over the farthingale. Elizabeth's pin-maker or "pynner" was Robert Careles. He delivered recycled old farthingale pins and other pins to "Ippolyta the Tartarian", a young Russian woman brought to Elizabeth's court by Anthony Jenkinson. She had a farthingale made of mockado fabric. See also 1500–1550 in fashion 1550–1600 in fashion 1600–1650 in fashion Hoop skirt Crinoline Citations General references Anderson, Ruth Matilda: Hispanic Costume 1480–1530, The Hispanic Society of America, New York, 1979. . Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women 1560–1620, Macmillan, 1985. Revised edition 1986. . Arnold, Janet: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, W. S. Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds, 1988. . 2020 e-book. Bendall, Sarah, Take Measure of Your Wide and Flaunting Garments': The Farthingale, Gender and the Consumption of Space in Elizabethan and Jacobean England", Renaissance Studies, 33 (2019). . Bendall, Sarah, "The Case of the 'French Vardinggale': A Methodological Approach to Reconstructing and Understanding Ephemeral Garments", Fashion Theory, 23:3 (2019). . Bendall, Sarah, 'Whalebone and the Wardrobe of Elizabeth I: Whaling and the Making of Aristocratic Fashions',