by visiting the Ngorongoro Crater. In Dodoma he catches a train bound for the town of Kigoma. In the nearby town of Ujiji he visits the site where David Livingstone and Henry Stanley had their famous meeting. Palin then catches what is believed to be the world's oldest operating ferry: the MV Liemba down Lake Tanganyika to Mpulungu in Zambia. Evil Shadow In Zambia Palin meets a witch doctor who tells him that he has an "evil shadow" and bad things lie ahead for him. He then is given a piece of tree bark to "wash" with, supposedly a medicinal aid. Palin journeys down through Zambia, where long-time leader Kenneth Kaunda has just been ousted. He visits the Shiwa Ngandu estate, run by Lorna Harvey (daughter of original owner Sir Stewart Gore-Browne) and her husband John. The Harveys were murdered six months after Palin's visit. Palin then moves on to Victoria Falls on the Zambezi River, where he goes whitewater rafting. He also tries swimming through some rapids wearing a life jacket, resulting in a cracked rib. One of his suitcases has been lost by the local railway company, and a crew member catches malaria. Palin then decides to take the medicine administered by the witch doctor. Entering Zimbabwe he visits the tomb of Cecil Rhodes, for whom the country was originally named Rhodesia. Moving on to Bulawayo he meets up with another BBC—the Bulawayo Bowlers Club, and visits a local nightclub. Then he heads towards his last African frontier, between Zimbabwe and South Africa, where apartheid was abolished four months earlier. While in South Africa Palin attends a local football match. In Johannesburg he learns that the S. A. Agulhas, a scientific research ship they were scheduled to take to Antarctica, has no space for them. While the BBC scrambles for alternatives, Palin visits Western Deep Levels Mine, the world's deepest gold mine. In Soweto he meets former South African neighbours of his from London; jazz trombonist Jonas Gwangwa and family. Then he catches the luxurious Blue Train to Cape Town. On top of Table Mountain he regards the southern tip of Africa and reminisces about how the continent changed him from an optimist to a realist. The BBC's efforts to get him on the Agulhas have failed, and it appears that he will be unable to reach the South Pole. Bitter End Although he is unable to reach