five mountains, and attempted Ushba, being turned back by poor conditions. In 1914 four mountains were climbed, with Raeburn descending to learn that war had broken out. World War I and after Raeburn's book, Mountaineering Art was in manuscript when World War I began, and long, hard hours in an aeroplane factory for the next six years stopped all climbing. At 49, he was too old for the Royal Flying Corps. Following the end of the war, in 1919 Raeburn celebrated by returning to the Alps and made a solo traverse of the Meije ridges. His book was finally published in 1920, having been postponed due to the war. Also in 1920, Raeburn joined an expedition to Kanchenjunga, and he was mountaineering leader on the initial 1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition under the leadership of Colonel Charles Howard-Bury. He worked hard at organising and preparing the party while suffering from influenza. By the time the expedition reached Tibet dysentery had broken out. One member of the party died, and Raeburn himself had to be carried down, spending two months in hospital. Against common sense, he returned to the expedition, but he was by then exhausted and never recovered his former fitness. Declining health lead to his eventual death five years later. Sailing His other sport was sailing, and he raced yachts in the Firth of Forth. With his brother John, he raced as a member of the Royal Forth Yachting Club, based in Granton. They were successful enough to win the club's Corinthian Cup three times. Being presented with the Cup, they in turn presented it back to the RFYC, who renamed it the Raeburn Trophy. This is the name under which it is still raced. Ornithology Raeburn was a keen ornithologist. His diaries on the sea birds of the Shetland Islands and other species are lodged in the archives of the Department of Natural Sciences, National Museums Scotland. For some years these diaries could not be found, but a recent search unearthed them. He was the first to describe the birds on Lyra Skerry Commemoration The SMC Raeburn Hut, between Dalwhinnie and Newtonmore, was opened in 1988 and is named after him. There is a faint geographical connection here, as Raeburn was the first to explore the steep cliffs on nearby Creag Dubh, Newtonmore. Raeburn's ice axe is one of two seals of office held by the president