garment would have prevented the use of wider . When the sleeves of the began to grow in both horizontal width and vertical length at the beginning of the Edo period, the widened as well. There were two reasons for this: firstly, to maintain the aesthetic balance of the outfit, the longer sleeves needed a wider sash to accompany them; secondly, unlike today (where they are customary only for unmarried women) married women also wore long-sleeved kimono in the 1770s. The use of long sleeves without leaving the underarm open would have hindered movements greatly. These underarm openings in turn made room for even wider . Originally, all were tied in the front. Later, fashion began to affect the position of the knot, and could be tied to the side or to the back. As grew wider the knots grew bigger, and it became cumbersome to tie the in the front. By the end of the 17th century were mostly tied in the back. However, the custom did not become firmly established before the beginning of the 20th century. At the end of the 18th century, it was fashionable for a woman's to have overly long hems that were allowed to trail behind when in house. For moving outside, the excess cloth was tied up beneath the with a wide cloth ribbon called . Contemporary women's kimono are made similarly over-long, but the hems are not allowed to trail; the excess cloth is tied up to hips, forming a fold called the . are still used, but only as a decorative accessory. Modern day The most formal women's , the , is technically obsolete, worn only by some brides, with a modified, longer version - the (lit., "dangling ") - worn by , in the present day. The lighter has taken the place of . The originally-everyday is the most common used today, and fancy may even be accepted as a part of a semi-ceremonial outfit. The use of fancy, decorative knots has also narrowed, though mainly through the drop in the numbers of women wearing kimono on a regular basis, with most women tying their in the (lit., "drum knot") style. , also known as , have gained popularity as pre-tied belts accessible to those with mobility issues or a lack of knowledge on how to wear . Tatsumura Textile located in Nishijin in Kyoto is a centre of