saying, "I found out how your mind works under pressure and immediately after reading that book I competed in Leeds and won my first competition". The book that Moffatt was referring to was With Winning in Mind (1988), by American Olympian, Lanny Bassham. In September 1990, aged 27, Moffatt retired from competition climbing and at that time was rated first on the Association of Sport Climbers International (ASCI) rankings. On retiring, he was voted most prolific competition climber 1980s in the French climbing magazine Vertical. In his 2009 autobiography he said of his retirement, "I no longer had energy the energy to keep it all up. I wanted to get myself back again. I wanted to see my friends. I wanted to climb for myself. I wanted to do first ascents. Most of all I wanted to have fun". Bouldering Moffatt had been an early adopter of bouldering from the outset of his career, saying in a 2009 interview, "My early boulder problems weren't publicized, no one seemed to be interested in them at all". In 1988, he solved Superman at Cressbrook, one of the first-ever boulder problems in the world. In 1991, Moffatt traveled to Yosemite and at Camp 4 solved Sick It at , and The Force at , two of the hardest in America at that time. He returned to Yosemite in 1993, and added The Dominator at , considered one of the first-ever boulders ever climbed. In 1997, he climbed the 12-metre high Samson (E8 7b) at Burbage South, while technically the hardest gritstone route at that time, with boulder pads is now a highball bouldering problem at . In 2002, on Stanage Edge in the Peak District Moffatt solved the long-term boulder problem The Ace at , the hardest boulder problem in Britain at the time, and effectively Moffat's last major new route. In 1996, Moffatt and climbing partner Ben Moon, featured in a film by Simon Tucker called The Real Thing, which is considered an important early film in the bouldering film genre, and featured the novel training techniques they were using (i.e. campus board-type installations) that are now mainstream. The pair would feature in other bouldering films, including Stick It (2001), and Stone Love (2001). Free soloing Moffatt is also known for his free soloing of challenging British traditional climbing routes, telling The Guardian in 2011, "You have to have an insane confidence