in the interlocked weft, producing a tapestry effect which makes it very elegant. Motifs Sari Due to proximity to the Ajanta caves, the influence of the Buddhist paintings can be seen in the woven Paithani motifs: The Kamal or lotus flower on which Buddha sits or stands The Hans (swan) motif The Ashraffi motif The Asawalli (flowering vines), became very popular during the Peshwa's period The Bangadimor, peacock in bangle The Popat-Maina The Humarparinda, pheasant The Amar Vell The Narali motif (coconut), very common Small motifs like circles, stars, kuyri, rui phool, kalas pakhhli, chandrakor, clusters of 3 leaves, were very common for the body of the sari. Padar (End of the Saree) Muniya, a kind of parrot used in borders and always found in green colour with an occasional red touch at the mouth Panja, a geometrical flower-like motif, most often outlined in red Barwa, 12 strands of a ladder; 3 strands on each side Laher, design is done in the centre to strengthen the zari Muthada, a geometrical design Asawalli, a flower pot with a flowering plant Mor, a peacock Color dyeing The weavers of Yeola dye yarns themselves. Yarn is purchased from Bangalore. Vat dyes and acid dyes are used because of its favorable properties. The government provides with a shade card of 400 samples, which acts as a collection for the buyer to choose from. Bleaching and dyeing is done in copper vessels. 20 to 30 grams of dye powder is used per kg of yarn, which is mixed in water. Acid is used for fixation. Coconut oil is used to give a soft finish to silk. The yarns are dipped in the dye bath for 30 to 40 minutes using copper rods. It is then removed, washed a few times in water and then squeezed. The yarn is dried in the shade. Traditional colours The dominant traditional colours of vegetable dyes included: Aboli (pale bittersweet) Firozi (cyan) Gujri (black and white) Kalichandrakala (black) Mirani Morphankhi (cerulean) Motia (pale pink) Neeligunji (blue) Pasila Pophali (chrome yellow) Samprus (green-red) Sankirodak (white) Uddani (a fainter black) Vangi (aubergine purple) Manufacturing processes Dyeing The kali/vakhar is brought from Bangalore which is a bundle of silk threads ultimately known as one thok. The raw material is dipped in hot water and diluted in khar (salt), for about 15 mins. The material is then squeezed by putting a rod in between