different colour. Interlocking method - two wefts are interlocked with each other where the colour change is required. The figuring weft is made of a number of coloured threads, weaving plain with warp threads and interlocked on either side with the grounds weft threads are invariably gold threads which interlock with the figure weft threads, thus forming the figure. This system of interlocking weaves, known as kadiyal, is done so that there are no extra floats on the back of the motif thus making the design nearly reversible. Dobe-tailing method - two threads go around the same warp, one above the other, creating a dobe-tailing or tooth-comb effect. Weaving could take between 18 and 24 months, depending upon the complexity of the design. Today there are many weavers who are working for the revival of this treasured weave. Borders and the Padar In the days of Peshwas, the borders and the Padar were made of pure gold mixed with copper to give it strength. The proportion was 1 kg of gold to 1 tola of copper. The combination was spun into a fine wire called the zari. In recent times, zari is made of silver, coated with gold plating. The borders are created with interlocked weft technique either with coloured silk or zari. In the border woven with a zari, ground coloured silk patterns are added as supplementary weft inlay against the zari usually in the form of flower or a creeping vine. Two types of border are the Narali and the Pankhi. Even if a very good weaver has woven the main body, a master weaver is needed for the intricate inlay border paths. The borders and the padar are woven in zari regardless of the colour of the sari. Types of paithani Paithani can be classified by three criteria: motifs, weaving, and colours. Motif Morbangadi : The word bangadi means bangle and mor means peacock. So morbangadi means a peacock in a bangle or in a bangle shape. The motif is woven onto the padar, the design sometimes having a single dancing peacock. The saris using this motif are very expensive because of the design. Munia brocade: Munia means parrot. Parrots are woven on the padar as well as in border. Parrots are always in leaf green colour. The parrots in silk are also called tota-maina. Lotus brocade: lotus motifs are used in padar and sometimes on the