coat may feature ribbon braiding around the edges of the collar, lapels, and down around the tails; it may also be present on the hook vent, breast pocket, and sleeves. Nicholas Storey advises that braiding should be avoided for very formal morning wear. Waistcoat A black morning coat with matching black waistcoat is the most formal option, being worn for Court, funerals, memorial services, civic dress and diplomatic dress (replacing or supplementing Court Dress), with academic dress, or in government use in America. At social or festive occasions, such as horse races and weddings, a contrasting waistcoat is usually worn. The most traditional colours are dove grey, light grey (including pearl grey), buff or camel (both yellowish tan colours), duck-egg blue, and occasionally white. There has been a tendency towards 'fancy' waistcoats of multicoloured and embroidered materials such as brocade, especially at weddings, although brightly coloured waistcoats may be considered garish. Other colours sold by traditional English tailors include pastels such as powder blue, pale pink, pale green, and other pastels. Generally, traditional waistcoats are made from linen, silk, or wool. Waistcoats may be either single-breasted, with or without lapels, or double-breasted with lapels. Single-breasted models with lapels usually feature a step collar and are worn with the bottom button undone, whilst double-breasted models commonly have either a shawl collar or a peak lapel and are worn fully buttoned. In either case, Debrett's advise against wearing backless waistcoats because they do not look as smart as real ones. Sometimes a white slip is worn, which is a strip of fabric buttoned to the inside top of the waistcoat to simulate the effect of a paler under-waistcoat, though the actual wearing of two waistcoats was obsolete even for the late Victorians. Trousers The formal ('spongebag') trousers worn with it are either 'cashmere' striped, or black and white checked. Formal trousers should not have turn-ups (cuffs in American English), and have either flat-fronts or one to two forward pleats to each leg. Braces (suspenders in American English) may be worn to prevent the waistband from appearing beneath the waistcoat if required. Belts should not be worn with morning dress. Less common (and less formal) alternatives to striped trousers are houndstooth check, Prince of Wales check, and grey flannel trousers, amongst others. Shirt Since the Second World War, in the United Kingdom and Commonwealth Realms, the traditional shirt for morning dress has been