by a slab avalanche on the way to Camp 2 while Doug Scott barely survived. It involves a difficult grade on a mixed ground of snow and rock at higher elevations. Scott, who was a member of the 1978 expedition, led another team strong teams of five top British climbers but they gave up at 7300m due to bad weather. Sabir, followed by Eiho Otani, reached the summit of K2 on 7 August 1981. Sabir and his team from the Waseda University created history by successfully climbing K2's West/South West Ridge for the first time. A documentary film of the climb, 50 Day Struggle was shown all over Japan, made Sabir a household name there. In 1982, Sabir along with Sher Khan and the famous Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner climbed Gasherbrum II 8035m and Broad Peak 8047m. Both Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak were done in alpine style in a period of just one week, the fastest ascent of two 8000m peaks at the time. Expeditions to Nanga Parbat He made three attempts on Nanga Parbat. His first was in October 1981, two months after his big success on K2 when he joined his friends from the Sangaku Doshikai Club Tokyo led by M. Omiya. They followed the first serious attempt route of Albert Frederick Mummery. Nanga Parbat claimed its first of many victims when Mummery and his Gurkha colleagues mysteriously disappeared in the Diamir Glacier never to be found again. Nazir and the Japanese abandoned their climb due to the heavy crevasses on the Diamir Glacier and avalanches after heavy snow fall that autumn. He then challenged the S/S West Face also known as Schell Route of Nanga Parbat on the Rupal Flank in 1983 with Tohokeiryo Kai Club friends. As he was leading a pitch up a chest deep snow face at around 7200m with Arai he fell 400 meters on top an avalanche along with seven Japanese colleagues nearly to the bottom of the face but barely survived as he stopped only 20m from the edge. One of the team members, Shimura, was swept down some 2000m to the bottom of the Rupal Face never to be found again. Sabir ended up with bruises all over his body and a sprained ankle while the team doctor Arai and Wakutsu had one broken arm each and the expedition leader Osamu Kunii survived with four broken ribs. Kunii also