returned safely. The expedition is known to be the first ascent of any mountain over 8000 meters and was the highest mountain climb ever at the time. Writing Known for his lyrical writing and his ability to convey not only the dangers of mountaineering but the pure exaltation of the climb, Rébuffat authored several books, many of which he published in his own publishing house. His most famous written work is Etoiles et Tempêtes (Starlight and Storm), first published in French in 1954, and in English in 1956. Starlight and Storm: The Ascent of six great North Faces of the Alps, J.M. Dent, London 1956. Mont Blanc To Everest Thames & Hudson, 1956. Translated from the French Du Mont Blanc a l'Himalaya 1955. Calanques (with Gabriel M. Ollive) Arthaud, Paris 1957. On Ice and Snow and Rock Nicholas Kaye Ltd 1963 translated from the 1959 French Edition published by EGI. Un Guide Raconte Hachette, Paris, 1964. Men and the Matterhorn Oxford University Press 1967. Between Heaven and Earth (with Pierre Tairraz). Kaye and W, 1970. Les Horizons Gagnés Editions Denoël, 1975. La Montagne Est Mon Domaine Éditions Hoëbeke, Paris 1994. The Mont Blanc Massif: The Hundred Finest Routes. Bâton Wicks, 2005. Filmography Rébuffat produced three colour films depicting himself and others climbing in the Alps. These are a testament to his skill as a climber, and his love of the mountains. Étoiles et Tempêtes won the Grand Prix at the Trento Film Festival in Trento, Italy. Flammes de Pierres 1953. Étoiles et Tempêtes with Maurice Baquet and Georges Tairraz 1955 Entre Terre et Ciel with Pierre Tairraz 1960-61 Les Horizons Gagnés with René Vernadet 1974 Rébuffat also was second unit director on the Walt Disney mountain film Third Man on the Mountain. References External links Gaston Rébuffat, 1921-1985 Bouldering technique: Gaston 1921 births 1985 deaths Alpine guides French mountain climbers Mountaineering film directors