had a deep cut across his belly caused by the friction of the rope to such an extent that his intestines were exposed. The mountain took its toll and the expedition had to be abandoned. In 1985 Sabir lured his old time friend and one of the most accomplished Himalayan climbers Doug Scott and his team to go on the same route of Nanga Parbat. Scott, his son Michael, Alastair Reid and Sabir free climbed to 7150m in a two-day push from Base Camp at 3600. Doug Scott got ill at the second bivouac around the same spot where they were swept with an avalanche in 1983 and had to abandon the climb. Death of brother In July 1980, Sabir lost his elder brother Inayat Shah, who served in the Pakistan Army Special Services Group (SSG). This was Shah's second attempt on Diran on the SSG expedition. On their first trip in 1979 they had to return from merely 150 m from the summit due to Khalid Bashir who had developed pulmonary oedema and on the descent Bashir fell to his death. A year after they returned to look for the body of Khalid Bashir and also to take on Diran itself. He, along with the climbing leader Shaukat Nazir Hamdani and Rasheed, were buried under an ice avalanche while attempting Diran 7527m on this second Army SSG Expedition while waiting out a bad weather spell in Camp 3 thus ending the hopes of Sabir and his brother to climb Broad Peak the following year and many mountains together. Everest expeditions Nazir Sabir first attempted Everest leading the first Pakistan Everest Expedition of ten plus a film team led by Asad Qureshi who shot the film Everest Men Against Nature in 1997. Nazir had to abandon first summit attempt with his five colleagues due to strong blizzards blowing across the summit ridge from 8630m and again had to return from around 8500m on their two other summit attempts due to strong winds. Nazir went back to Everest from Nepal side and on 17 May 2000, climbing in the company of his Nepalese Sherpa colleagues and a Canadian on a full moon night to avoid high winds he stepped on the highest summit at 0730 hours becoming the first from Pakistan to get to the roof of the world. After hoisting Pakistan flag atop Everest he paid tributes to his many