rose prints, modeled after old chintz drapery fabric and needlework, seemed ubiquitous in 1984 and '85, initially shown by the designer on sixties-revival Nehru jackets and avant-garde UK street silhouettes like oversized sweaters and ankle-length tube skirts but soon picked up by Jean-Paul Gaultier in Paris and, before long, mass-marketed everywhere, especially popular in drop-waist, bertha-collared, puff-sleeved dresses to the lower calf put out by companies like Laura Ashley and worn with matching large hair bows on the back of the head. Katharine Hamnett's graphic "message shirts," oversized white t-shirts with big, black, block lettering spelling out social and political messages opposing military buildup, supporting the environment, and other messages less clear, became iconic garments of the period, with Hamnett famously wearing an anti-nuclear one in the presence of Margaret Thatcher. Her "Choose Life" one, originally intended as a pro-environment message by the UK designer, was ironically picked up by supporters of the new anti-abortion movement in the US that had newly branded itself "pro-life" under Reagan's influence, a use Hamnett strongly opposed. Power dressing The television prime time shows Dallas and, in particular, Dynasty influenced increasingly oversized shoulder pads. Shoulder pads, popularized by Joan Collins and Linda Evans from the soap opera Dynasty were popular from the mid-1980s to the early 1990s. Dallas, however, promoted displays of wealth involving jewelry and sparkling clothing. Meanwhile, women's fashion and business shoes revisited the pointed toes and spiked heels that were popular in the 1950s and early 1960s. Some stores stocked canvas or satin covered fashion shoes in white and dyed them to the customer's preferred color, preferably bright colors. By this period, women had become much more confident in the workplace and had advanced in their careers. In this decade, women wanted to fit into higher management levels by emulating a masculine appearance through fashion to look more capable. Hence, they would wear empowering garments that portrayed masculinity, thus making them seem more professional by fitting in with the male majority. This would be accomplished with attributes such as wider shoulders with the aid of padding and larger sleeves. Other items included dresses worn with skinny or thick belts, pleated or plain skirts, tights or pantyhose, above the ankle length pants sometimes worn with pantyhose or tights underneath, ballet flat dress shoes, long sweaters, boat shoes and slouchy flat short length boots. After the western economic boom of the mid-1980s, the