satin quilted jacket described by Salvador Dalí as "the first soft sculpture" and now in the Victoria and Albert Museum collections. This jacket has been considered the starting point for "anoraks, space man and even fur jackets". In the 1930s, he also invented the Pavlovian waistband that expands after a meal. Meanwhile, he licensed his fashion designs with American department stores such as Lord & Taylor and Bergdorf Goodman. New York career James moved permanently to New York in 1939 where he established Charles James, Inc. At the end of the Second World War, he designed a clothing line for Elizabeth Arden. In 1947, James showed a collection in Paris. The following year, Millicent Rogers organized an exhibition of the outfits he made for her at the Brooklyn Museum, entitled "A Decade of Design for Mrs Millicent H. Rogers by Charles James". Also in 1948, Cecil Beaton famously photographed eight of James' creations for Vogue. In the early 1950s, James spent most of his time in New York City at his Madison Avenue workshop. He won two Coty Awards, in 1950 and 1954, and one Neiman Marcus Award in 1953. That year he conceived the "Four-Leaf Clover" or "Abstract" ballgown for the journalist Austine Hearst. It was the dress James ranked as his best creation. This dress weighed no less than 12 pounds and had to be supported by a rigid structure. James is best known for his sculpted ball gowns made of lavish fabrics and to exacting tailoring standards, but is also remembered for his capes and coats, often trimmed with fur and embroidery. Arnold Scaasi worked for James for two years. Scaasi was notably in charge of the ready-to-wear line. After he left, James dropped the line and returned to licensing special designs to American departments, which would produce and distribute them. He designed the interior and several pieces of furniture for the Houston home of John and Dominique de Menil. James retired in 1958. Personal life In 1954, James married Nancy Lee Gregory from Kansas, 20 years his junior. They had a son and daughter. After the birth of their son, James produced a children's collection. The marriage dissolved in 1961. In 1964, he moved to the Hotel Chelsea where he had three sixth-floor rooms for his work space, office, and apartment. James died in 1978 of bronchial pneumonia. Legacy Influence on fashion designers According to Harold