been cultivated in the region for centuries and, together with Yellow Muscat and Zeta, are the only grape varieties officially permitted for use in the region. Cellars: A vast system of cellars has been carved out of solid rock. They provide a constant temperature of around 12 °C and high humidity of around 95%, which are ideal for the aging of Tokaji wines. Appellation system: A royal decree in 1757 established a closed production district in Tokaj, the world's first system of wine appellation. Vineyard classification began in 1730 and was completed by the national censuses of 1765 and 1772. Winemakers and Wine Styles Wine makers from the Slovak side of the border produce quality dessert as well as dry wines similar to those of the Hungarian wine region. The Tokaj wines () made exclusively from 3 base varieties Furmint, Lipovina and Yellow Muscat (Slovak: Muškát žltý) grapes, are: Tokajský Furmint Tokajská Lipovina Tokajský Muškát žltý (Yellow Muscat) Tokajské samorodné suché (samorodné derived from a Slovak word meaning "the way it was grown", suché means "dry"): Samorodné wine is set apart from ordinary wine in that it is made from bunches which contain a considerable proportion of botrytised grapes. Because of this, Samorodné is typically higher in extract than ordinary wine. Tokajské samorodné sladké (sladké means "sweet")is set apart from ordinary wine in that it is made from bunches which contain a bigger proportion of botrytised grapes. Tokajský výber (in Hungarian: aszú): This is the wine which made Tokaj world famous. It is a sweet dessert wine made by individually picking botrytised grapes and trampling them in huge vats to form a paste. Must is then poured on the paste and left to soak before the wine is transferred to wooden casks where fermentation in completed. The wines are graded from 3 to 6 putňa (), representing the level of sugar and sugar-free extract in the mature wine. Tokajská výberová esencia (the Hungarian version is called aszú-eszencia) Tokajská esencia-nektár (meaning "essence-nectar") Tokajský mášláš (derived from the Hungarian word máslás) Tokajský fordítáš (derived from the Hungarian word fordítás) The "Designation of origin" dispute Tokaj wine is, by its unique character, a luxurious commodity with a strong appeal to the international market. The dispute started in 1964 when, for the first time, the then Czechoslovakia exported its excessive production of Tokaj wine to Austria, the market that used to be solely supplied